I used Bilt Hamber when repairing the dreaded boot floor problem of my Z3 many many years ago. Before welding the cross section over the channel in the boot I sprayed the channel with Bilt Hamber cavity wax. I sold it soon after. 7 years later I came across the car and had a look underneath. The rear boot floor from underneath looked like it had never been driven in the wet. No rust, no separation of the boot floor (the welds probably did most of the work there), and I noticed that the underbody wax I used was still stuck all around the areas I had welded underneath. This is a car that was used on track days after I had sold it. I now have an S2000 and needed to see this video in order to be a little more thorough. So thank you for enhancing my knowledge about these products.
Thanks for watching. What happened with the Z3 is impressive but such is my trust in these products I’m not surprised (they never surprise me to be honest…they are that good) In a world of people waxing lyrical (bad pun) about products online these continue to just quietly perform and protect. I’m about to start looking at the underbody on my Rivage cabrio and these will be used exclusively (and I’ve tried others on my Defender to compare). Anyway, thanks for watching and for commenting. Good luck with the S2000 (lovely cars) and please do get involved…even if it’s not a dub 😀
We just got our first "newish" car and after working on 15-20 year old rust buckets for years I want to make sure that this car will be easier to work on over time. Thanks for your overview. One selling point for me is that the cans of undercoat are bigger than competitors as well making them great value per ml.
Thank for giving me the final push to invest these products into a beloved daily Passat and bora👍🏻 hopefully it finally relaxes my anti corrosion ocd lol
Wow just came across this video and now I know how to stop the dreaded post wash brown disc look! Nothing worse than rusty looking disc rotors against your gleaming wheels! Thanks so much. I’ve now subscribed
Fantastic video packed full of great content. I’ll be using this video as a reference when using these products as I want to get into under carriage cleaning and restoration. Thank you for sharing your valuable knowledge!
Brilliant presentation covering all the questions you’d ask-just bought s50 for the chassis cavities & UC for under body panels & wheel arches - BUT bought 5ltr cans so do you know if you can put UC thro a 23:11 spray gun to get a fine thin coat like the small can?
Thanks for watching and the kind feedback. Appreciated. I’m not sure about the spray gun in all honesty as I’ve never tried it. In theory it should work fine though but may be best to drop Bilt Hamber an email. They are really quick to respond and very helpful. Good luck!
Just got a reply direct from BH a few minutes ago - answer is yes it can be sprayed thro’ a standard spray gun - thin with white spirit (start at 10% initiallly) until it atomises sufficiently. It will dry out to same ‘candle wax’ finish.
@@thegolfdiaries1123 ... yes, love their cleaning products first and then tried some of their rust treatments last year, some sort of wizardry going on 🥺
Thanks for this video, being looking for someone to explain the different products but mainly which ones for what purpose. Glad i found this so thanks again, good well presented video :)
intention to inform: the surface glaze or shimmering that it is differant from your waxing motion has to do with how the wax is drawn. When you sand clear coat in only one direction you will see the sanding grooves only when you look parallel on them. Because you see the light reflection from the mountain or tales of the grooves. When you look in the same direction as they are produced from sanding you wont see em because the light wont refract at the grooves. You look straight down them and there is no refraction to see. And when you are filling swirly grooves on the clear coat then you are filling a swirly pattern in and that is what you are able to see. So best results you will get with just striking in one direction and that is the direction you are looking at it most. I wax my hood diagonal so i dont have to look away when i open the door Have fun
Sorry for the slow reply. Thanks for taking the time to explain that and I’ll start experimenting on the Rivage. Appreciate the insight, all makes perfect sense. Thanks
Hallelujah !!! I have finally found someone as obsessed as me !! I'm not crazy after all !! What I wanted to ask is about the bilt hamber wax dynax...I use the clear version on all exposed metal on my new Porsche Cayman...it is absolutely fantastic ...But it is very tacky and attracts a ton of dirt and grime, brake dust etc...also when you want to wash this dirt off it is a real Hell of a job as all the dirt is stuck to the product...have you experienced the same and what have you used to remove the dynax and grime without damaging any of the metals ?? Before re applying...horrible to see all the road dirt stuck on there, I know the product is doing its job though..but so hard to remove...will be watching all your videos from tomorrow...brilliant...
Many thanks for your kind words and, following an accident last year, I’ve not uploaded a video in a long time. However I have some planned and will start again this weekend all being well. With regards to removing it, a strong solution of their Surfex HD does the job with a bit of elbow grease. I’d also recommend Garage Therapy Decon shampoo as in various dilutions it does a wide array of jobs including this. Glad you like Bilt Hamber and I’m a tad jealous of your car choice. Lovely car there!
If you remove the rust, apply Hydrate 80, wait a few hours and apply epoxy primer, will the primer hold up well on hydrate 80? Or will the primer peel off? And is it reasonable to apply zinc in bolognichik + epoxy primer + tikkurila temadur 20 on hydrate 80? Or will zinc be unnecessary?
Sorry I’ve only just seen this! Apologies. In short I’m not sure as I’ve never done that. It’s worth dropping BH an email as they’ll be happy to help and will respond WAY quicker than I did! Thanks for watching and please stay tuned as much more to come when I return from holiday
Hi. you should try Brunox Lub&care the green Can. That is another level of rustprotectant! Dont get it on your cloth it the oil stains will no more leave the garment. But its funtastic as protectant.
Thanks. The plan is to do an application video but not sure when that wil be at the moment due to various work commitments...but it is on the list for sure. In summary though, don't let the UB get on your driveway - that's the only messy one and usually that comes from over application. However, in hot weather, it can drip. Thanks again
Great review. I use BH and have just got some Gas- Mac. Fingers crossed it does it’s job. I’ve use Atom -Mac for a while and use it in a Flairosol bottle for nice fine even spray
Hi, ref the Atom Mac....when diluted to 5% did it mix up and turn cloudy? Mine has gone cloudy in colour, but also physically cloudy inside my spray bottle.....
Apologies for the slow reply. Been recovering from a bit of an accident. I personally have not seen Atom Mac do this. I can only assume that either it has reacted with the bottle (previous contents?) or similar. Worth speaking to Bilt Hamber as they are really helpful. Thanks for watching and please stay tuned. Lots more content coming now I've recovered. Cheers
@@patrickcarney4222 thanks Patrick. That's interesting. I have a Vyair vessel which window cleaners use, I use it to rinse my car spot free. It uses resin beads etc. Would that count as distilled?
I bought UC, UB and S50 in the spring to do the underside of my Navara. Work got busy and I didn't have time. Now I dont have any way to dry the chassis so I've bought some Atom Mac. This will be better than nothing over winter right....?
Sorry for the slow reply. Possibly but I don't think it would last very long under load like that and being exposed to the elements/mud/puddles etc. Worth trying though! Thanks for watching
Brilliant video! What are these like Vs acf 50, xcp? As these are normally what I use for my motorbike, I've never really heard of these products before very much.
Thanks. I use ACF50 on my Defender too. Great product. The waxes are clearly a lot thicker than ACF50 and do a slightly different job so they are hard to compare. My honest advice fir a motorbike is to add atom Mac and Dynax UC to the ACF50 treatment for ultimate protection. Bilt Hamber anti rust products are as good as they get IMO
Apologies just seen this! So sorry! I use plain tap water but you probably should use deionised. Having said that I’ve never had an issue with tap water. Thanks for watching
Hi mate. I have a new set of control arms for my mk1 tt and the adjuster bolts that came with them are not treated. Do you think the Electrox would work well on them ?.
Thanks for watching and apologies for the slow reply. You may have already done this by now but yes in theory it would work well. Please let me know how you get on
Great informative video! And don’t worry we are all just as sad as you when it comes to geeking out on rustproofing haha why else would we be watching…😆
Very interesting and informative video, thank you. May I ask a question or your opinion, please? I have a Brian James T6 Tri-Axle Trailer, constructed of Galvanised Steel. I have been looking for a good protection product that will keep it looking shiny for as long as possible. I appreciate that Galvanised Steel is a protected product in the first instant; I just want to find a way to keep it looking shiny. My research has taken me to Dynax UC & Atom-Mac. What are your thoughts?
Thanks for watching and for the kind feedback. Yes, those two products will be ideal. As you say, it is not necessary but for added protection why not? I find Atom mac works well to spray on after a wash during the salty winter as it neutralizes any salt left over. UC is ideal for coating the chassis with. I'd also recommend ACF50 for your trailer electrics - amazing stuff! Have fun
Could dynax uc be used in arches with carpet like material on a section of them for protection or are you thinking its only best used on arches without them ? Thanks
Apologies Darren, I have only just seen this. I would suggest that Dynax UC only be used on metal as I couldn't;t see it bonding and sticking with other materials. A good question to ask Bill Hamber though.
I've used Bilt Hamber products on my 1998 Integra Type R and found them to be very good. Lanoguard also seems to be very good. I use that on the underside of my 2.2 Honda Civic as it's really easy to apply.
My Saab 9.3 has wing liners - instead of removing ( awkward as has mud flaps) thinking of drilling a small hole to Insert probe and then spray - would put at highest point to Bilt Hamber cavity wax could seep into corners ? Would seal Hole afterwards - what do you think ?
Apologies for slow reply. On my holidays 😉Yes it should work ok but bear in mind that mud and salt etc will have settled behind the liners over time. Putting wax over that just seals it in. I have the same issue with my Caddy and will remove the liners as lots of Caddies rot inside out because of this very issue. Good luck! You’ll love the products
Took rear liners out and treated inside of arches and notorious wheel arch problems - inside arches were rust free thank goodness 👌 Bilt Hamber products excellent 👌
Should I use the Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 rust converter and then the Atom Mac because my Landrover Discovery 4 has surface rust on the chassis. Can you please tell me if this is a good idea or not, if not then what would you recommend i use on a Landrover Discovery 4 that has some surface rust on the chassis. Thanks
I guess it depends on how bad the surface rust is. For example if you can wire brush most of it off then I'd say no need for Hydrate 80. If it won't brush off...then best practice would be to convert it first. However, you can use the UB and UC waxes over surface rust and it will seal the surface and stop any more from developing. Atom Mac would also help BUT you would perhaps need to apply it regularly whereas the UB or UC you could leave for a year or so (depending on use i.e. wading, mud etc). Atom Mac would be an 'every wash' need in those circumstances. I find Atom Mac great for tight tolerances and joints where you need to creep into the join. Hope that helps.
You can check out my Bilt Hamber Gas-Mac intro here th-cam.com/video/C19Rlbe8iFA/w-d-xo.html
I did the underbody with s50 wow its amazing stuff. Made it like new underneath. Brilliant
It’s a cracking product. Thanks for watching. Cheers
I used Bilt Hamber when repairing the dreaded boot floor problem of my Z3 many many years ago. Before welding the cross section over the channel in the boot I sprayed the channel with Bilt Hamber cavity wax. I sold it soon after. 7 years later I came across the car and had a look underneath. The rear boot floor from underneath looked like it had never been driven in the wet. No rust, no separation of the boot floor (the welds probably did most of the work there), and I noticed that the underbody wax I used was still stuck all around the areas I had welded underneath. This is a car that was used on track days after I had sold it. I now have an S2000 and needed to see this video in order to be a little more thorough. So thank you for enhancing my knowledge about these products.
Thanks for watching. What happened with the Z3 is impressive but such is my trust in these products I’m not surprised (they never surprise me to be honest…they are that good) In a world of people waxing lyrical (bad pun) about products online these continue to just quietly perform and protect. I’m about to start looking at the underbody on my Rivage cabrio and these will be used exclusively (and I’ve tried others on my Defender to compare). Anyway, thanks for watching and for commenting. Good luck with the S2000 (lovely cars) and please do get involved…even if it’s not a dub 😀
We just got our first "newish" car and after working on 15-20 year old rust buckets for years I want to make sure that this car will be easier to work on over time. Thanks for your overview. One selling point for me is that the cans of undercoat are bigger than competitors as well making them great value per ml.
All BH products are amazing value I must say. Thanks for watching and please stay tuned as much more planned when I’m back from holiday!
Thank for giving me the final push to invest these products into a beloved daily Passat and bora👍🏻 hopefully it finally relaxes my anti corrosion ocd lol
Thanks Jacob. They really are very effective at the anti-corrosion job - enjoy! Thanks for watching.
Just used Dynax UC and S50 really really enjoyed using these refined and professional products !
They are fantastic products for sure. Thanks for watching
Wow just came across this video and now I know how to stop the dreaded post wash brown disc look! Nothing worse than rusty looking disc rotors against your gleaming wheels! Thanks so much. I’ve now subscribed
Thanks. Much appreciated.
Fantastic video packed full of great content. I’ll be using this video as a reference when using these products as I want to get into under carriage cleaning and restoration. Thank you for sharing your valuable knowledge!
Thanks for watching and apologies for the slow reply. I missed this one somehow! Let us know how you get on
Brilliant presentation covering all the questions you’d ask-just bought s50 for the chassis cavities & UC for under body panels & wheel arches - BUT bought 5ltr cans so do you know if you can put UC thro a 23:11 spray gun to get a fine thin coat like the small can?
Thanks for watching and the kind feedback. Appreciated. I’m not sure about the spray gun in all honesty as I’ve never tried it. In theory it should work fine though but may be best to drop Bilt Hamber an email. They are really quick to respond and very helpful. Good luck!
Just got a reply direct from BH a few minutes ago - answer is yes it can be sprayed thro’ a standard spray gun - thin with white spirit (start at 10% initiallly) until it atomises sufficiently. It will dry out to same ‘candle wax’ finish.
Good stuff. Interested to see how it goes. Thanks for letting me know
Great video. Lots of really good info. Really well presented. Thanks for your efforts 👍👍👍
Many thanks for watching and for your kind words. More videos in the planning like this on various brands. Thanks again
Good guide = educated and convinced - cheers - Old git, UK
Thanks for the feedback and nice to know there are plenty of old gits out there. We're an important and valuable part of society ;)
What a great video! Really enjoyed watching this. Love Bilt Hamber products and now I’ve found even more to use
Thanks Ben. They are great aren't they?! Appreciate you watching and please stay tuned as loads more content on the way! Thanks again
Much better explanation than their website
Thanks. I appreciate the feedback - genuinely. Thanks for watching
Cracking video... very informative and like myself, a lover of the Bilt Hamber products 👍👍
Thanks. Very much appreciated. They’re great products aren’t they?
@@thegolfdiaries1123 ... yes, love their cleaning products first and then tried some of their rust treatments last year, some sort of wizardry going on 🥺
Thanks for this video, being looking for someone to explain the different products but mainly which ones for what purpose. Glad i found this so thanks again, good well presented video :)
Thanks for watching! Really appreciate the feedback and sorry it took me so long to reply!
intention to inform:
the surface glaze or shimmering that it is differant from your waxing motion has to do with how the wax is drawn. When you sand clear coat in only one direction you will see the sanding grooves only when you look parallel on them. Because you see the light reflection from the mountain or tales of the grooves.
When you look in the same direction as they are produced from sanding you wont see em because the light wont refract at the grooves. You look straight down them and there is no refraction to see.
And when you are filling swirly grooves on the clear coat then you are filling a swirly pattern in and that is what you are able to see.
So best results you will get with just striking in one direction and that is the direction you are looking at it most.
I wax my hood diagonal so i dont have to look away when i open the door
Have fun
Sorry for the slow reply. Thanks for taking the time to explain that and I’ll start experimenting on the Rivage. Appreciate the insight, all makes perfect sense. Thanks
Hallelujah !!! I have finally found someone as obsessed as me !! I'm not crazy after all !! What I wanted to ask is about the bilt hamber wax dynax...I use the clear version on all exposed metal on my new Porsche Cayman...it is absolutely fantastic ...But it is very tacky and attracts a ton of dirt and grime, brake dust etc...also when you want to wash this dirt off it is a real Hell of a job as all the dirt is stuck to the product...have you experienced the same and what have you used to remove the dynax and grime without damaging any of the metals ?? Before re applying...horrible to see all the road dirt stuck on there, I know the product is doing its job though..but so hard to remove...will be watching all your videos from tomorrow...brilliant...
Many thanks for your kind words and, following an accident last year, I’ve not uploaded a video in a long time. However I have some planned and will start again this weekend all being well. With regards to removing it, a strong solution of their Surfex HD does the job with a bit of elbow grease. I’d also recommend Garage Therapy Decon shampoo as in various dilutions it does a wide array of jobs including this. Glad you like Bilt Hamber and I’m a tad jealous of your car choice. Lovely car there!
Excellent content.
Thank you very much for your time
Thanks Kevin - hugely appreciated. Please stay tuned as I'm getting back in the studio after a busy few months!
If you remove the rust, apply Hydrate 80, wait a few hours and apply epoxy primer, will the primer hold up well on hydrate 80? Or will the primer peel off? And is it reasonable to apply zinc in bolognichik + epoxy primer + tikkurila temadur 20 on hydrate 80? Or will zinc be unnecessary?
Sorry I’ve only just seen this! Apologies. In short I’m not sure as I’ve never done that. It’s worth dropping BH an email as they’ll be happy to help and will respond WAY quicker than I did! Thanks for watching and please stay tuned as much more to come when I return from holiday
Hi. you should try Brunox Lub&care the green Can. That is another level of rustprotectant! Dont get it on your cloth it the oil stains will no more leave the garment. But its funtastic as protectant.
Thanks for the tip! I'll look into it
Great video. I will be using these products in my daily drive.👍👍👍
Thanks for watching and for the feedback. Appreciate it. Good luck with the products, they’re great. Cheers
Great informative video, I'll be doing the underside of my Civic type R with UB. Would be great to see it being used, and if it makes a mess. Cheers!
Thanks. The plan is to do an application video but not sure when that wil be at the moment due to various work commitments...but it is on the list for sure. In summary though, don't let the UB get on your driveway - that's the only messy one and usually that comes from over application. However, in hot weather, it can drip. Thanks again
Great review. I use BH and have just got some Gas- Mac. Fingers crossed it does it’s job. I’ve use Atom -Mac for a while and use it in a Flairosol bottle for nice fine even spray
Thanks for watching and the feedback. I must admit that I now use an IK spray bottle for Atom Mac now and it is much better than the old spray bottle.
Hi, ref the Atom Mac....when diluted to 5% did it mix up and turn cloudy? Mine has gone cloudy in colour, but also physically cloudy inside my spray bottle.....
Apologies for the slow reply. Been recovering from a bit of an accident. I personally have not seen Atom Mac do this. I can only assume that either it has reacted with the bottle (previous contents?) or similar. Worth speaking to Bilt Hamber as they are really helpful. Thanks for watching and please stay tuned. Lots more content coming now I've recovered. Cheers
When diluting Atom Mac make sure you use distilled water
@@patrickcarney4222 thanks Patrick. That's interesting. I have a Vyair vessel which window cleaners use, I use it to rinse my car spot free. It uses resin beads etc. Would that count as distilled?
Il be doing the golf cc, t4 & e21
I bought UC, UB and S50 in the spring to do the underside of my Navara. Work got busy and I didn't have time. Now I dont have any way to dry the chassis so I've bought some Atom Mac. This will be better than nothing over winter right....?
Sorry for the slow reply. Yes, better than nothing as long as you reapply each time you wash the vehicle as I fount it will have any longevity to it.
Great video! Do you think ferrasol could be used for cycle/motorcycle chain maintenance?
Sorry for the slow reply. Possibly but I don't think it would last very long under load like that and being exposed to the elements/mud/puddles etc. Worth trying though! Thanks for watching
Brilliant video! What are these like Vs acf 50, xcp? As these are normally what I use for my motorbike, I've never really heard of these products before very much.
Thanks. I use ACF50 on my Defender too. Great product. The waxes are clearly a lot thicker than ACF50 and do a slightly different job so they are hard to compare. My honest advice fir a motorbike is to add atom Mac and Dynax UC to the ACF50 treatment for ultimate protection. Bilt Hamber anti rust products are as good as they get IMO
Very clear, thanks
Thanks for watching and the feedback. Appreciated
Excellent video thank you
Thanks for watching. Genuinely appreciated
Thanks for a great video, do you recommend using atom mac with deionised water or plain tap water?
Apologies just seen this! So sorry! I use plain tap water but you probably should use deionised. Having said that I’ve never had an issue with tap water. Thanks for watching
Lots of good info Mark. Do you like Bilt Hamber???
What was your first clue? 😀 Cheers Martin
@@thegolfdiaries1123 The BH display behind you, oh and your previous videos as well 🤣🤣
Run a Defender and you fall in love with good rust proofing products 👌😉
Hi mate. I have a new set of control arms for my mk1 tt and the adjuster bolts that came with them are not treated. Do you think the Electrox would work well on them ?.
Thanks for watching and apologies for the slow reply. You may have already done this by now but yes in theory it would work well. Please let me know how you get on
Great informative video! And don’t worry we are all just as sad as you when it comes to geeking out on rustproofing haha why else would we be watching…😆
There are worse things to geek out to :) Thanks for watching and apologies for the slow reply. Back on the TH-cam case now! Cheers
Very interesting and informative video, thank you.
May I ask a question or your opinion, please? I have a Brian James T6 Tri-Axle Trailer, constructed of Galvanised Steel.
I have been looking for a good protection product that will keep it looking shiny for as long as possible.
I appreciate that Galvanised Steel is a protected product in the first instant; I just want to find a way to keep it looking shiny.
My research has taken me to Dynax UC & Atom-Mac. What are your thoughts?
Thanks for watching and for the kind feedback. Yes, those two products will be ideal. As you say, it is not necessary but for added protection why not? I find Atom mac works well to spray on after a wash during the salty winter as it neutralizes any salt left over. UC is ideal for coating the chassis with. I'd also recommend ACF50 for your trailer electrics - amazing stuff! Have fun
Will dynax s50 harm brake hoses and gaiters?
I’ve seen no evidence of it doing so but if in doubt drop Bilt Hamber a line as they’re really helpful. Thanks for watching
Could dynax uc be used in arches with carpet like material on a section of them for protection or are you thinking its only best used on arches without them ? Thanks
Apologies Darren, I have only just seen this. I would suggest that Dynax UC only be used on metal as I couldn't;t see it bonding and sticking with other materials. A good question to ask Bill Hamber though.
I've used Bilt Hamber products on my 1998 Integra Type R and found them to be very good.
Lanoguard also seems to be very good. I use that on the underside of my 2.2 Honda Civic as it's really easy to apply.
They are great products and will last you well. Thanks for watching
My Saab 9.3 has wing liners - instead of removing ( awkward as has mud flaps) thinking of drilling a small hole to
Insert probe and then spray - would put at highest point to Bilt Hamber cavity wax could seep into corners ? Would seal
Hole afterwards - what do you think ?
Apologies for slow reply. On my holidays 😉Yes it should work ok but bear in mind that mud and salt etc will have settled behind the liners over time. Putting wax over that just seals it in. I have the same issue with my Caddy and will remove the liners as lots of Caddies rot inside out because of this very issue. Good luck! You’ll love the products
@@thegolfdiaries1123 Hi
Did take them out about 5 years ago nice and clean 🧽
Took rear liners out and treated inside of arches and notorious wheel arch problems - inside arches were rust free thank goodness 👌 Bilt Hamber products excellent 👌
Hi. Top review. I’ve got my anni to do. I want some help and tips. Could you contact me somehow? Any contact info?
How did you get on? As per my other comment, just seen this for sone reason. Apologies
Should I use the Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 rust converter and then the Atom Mac because my Landrover Discovery 4 has surface rust on the chassis. Can you please tell me if this is a good idea or not, if not then what would you recommend i use on a Landrover Discovery 4 that has some surface rust on the chassis. Thanks
I guess it depends on how bad the surface rust is. For example if you can wire brush most of it off then I'd say no need for Hydrate 80. If it won't brush off...then best practice would be to convert it first. However, you can use the UB and UC waxes over surface rust and it will seal the surface and stop any more from developing. Atom Mac would also help BUT you would perhaps need to apply it regularly whereas the UB or UC you could leave for a year or so (depending on use i.e. wading, mud etc). Atom Mac would be an 'every wash' need in those circumstances. I find Atom Mac great for tight tolerances and joints where you need to creep into the join. Hope that helps.