One of my favorite planes is a type 10 no. 6. It's my go to jointer. I was surprised by how nice that Chinese plane sounded! Solid! All 3 sound nice and sharp. Was unaware that Wood River planes are manufactured in China.
Over the years I have grown fond of the #6 fore plane for many tasks where I used to always use a #5. Some of the newer planes are sometimes well made and do not take allot to fine tune them. I have to always remind myself... A hand plane is nothing more than a chisel in something to hold it in place to take a very precise cut. Thanks for watching.
Dam i wish i could cut down a 1x6 in the vice for a couple of hours with my #5 vintage stanley then take a snooze . sounds good walter thanks for another plane talk loved it then still love them now
Great video. I have a type 15 (1931 - 1935 I believe) #6 and it is my favorite plane. People complain about the weight if it, but I think it works so well in an awful lot of jointing situations and is great as a "fore" plane. That weight and length really do a lot for you. Heck, I look for reasons to use it now.
I still think a properly setup vintage Stanley will be the lightest and cuts very well. If you want to go heavier for the weight, Record versions will definitely satisfy. The modern premium stuff is good, but not great.
@@DustySplinters the Chinese plane seem impressive , I recently bought a Stanley block plane made in China and it is terrible the mouth is way too big its useless , it was in sealed packaging so i wasn't able to look at it closely , disappointed , luckily I won a bid on a mint Stanley no. 7 with its original box looks like its never been used so very happy I payed 130 pounds .
Tough Q Steve It all depends on your need. If most of your work is 3' or less in length you can get by with #6, 5-1/2 or even a #5 Longer jointing requires more care with shorter planes or proper use of longer ones. Does that make sense? Thanks for watching.
The 7 is generally not necessary. It is also exponentially harder to flatten properly (yes there are proper but painful way to do it) over the 6. The 8 is even more so. You would NOT need more than a 6 for most jobs if you have 1. Flattened it and 2. Set it up to do jointing. A fore plane type of aggressive cut setup is probably not what you want for jointing.
I like your videos its so real.. i can feel it here, because you tested directly to the wood 👍
Thank you very much!
One of my favorite planes is a type 10 no. 6. It's my go to jointer. I was surprised by how nice that Chinese plane sounded! Solid! All 3 sound nice and sharp. Was unaware that Wood River planes are manufactured in China.
Over the years I have grown fond of the #6 fore plane for many tasks where I used to always use a #5.
Some of the newer planes are sometimes well made and do not take allot to fine tune them.
I have to always remind myself... A hand plane is nothing more than a chisel in something to hold it in place to take a very precise cut.
Thanks for watching.
Dam i wish i could cut down a 1x6 in the vice for a couple of hours with my #5 vintage stanley then take a snooze . sounds good walter thanks for another plane talk loved it then still love them now
You Betcha
I was taught that the longer the object your planing, the longer the plane. Very simple common sense
Great video. I have a type 15 (1931 - 1935 I believe) #6 and it is my favorite plane. People complain about the weight if it, but I think it works so well in an awful lot of jointing situations and is great as a "fore" plane. That weight and length really do a lot for you. Heck, I look for reasons to use it now.
I have a type 10 no. 6 that I use on my shooting board. It works extremely well for this task.
seems like a good choice.
@@DustySplinters Hey Walter hope you had a good Xmas, any update on the clifton 4 1/2 ?
@@williamn01 Christmas was good, but quiet.
Stay tuned, I think I have to start more videos again.
@@DustySplinters Quiet is the best way Walter glad you're good 👍
Looking forward to what you make in the future .
I still think a properly setup vintage Stanley will be the lightest and cuts very well. If you want to go heavier for the weight, Record versions will definitely satisfy. The modern premium stuff is good, but not great.
Thanks for watching !
what are the blade and breaker differences between the planes.
Not much if any on the 2 old vintage and the modern one is a Chinese version of A-2. Thanks for watching.
@@DustySplinters the Chinese plane seem impressive , I recently bought a Stanley block plane made in China and it is terrible the mouth is way too big its useless , it was in sealed packaging so i wasn't able to look at it closely , disappointed , luckily I won a bid on a mint Stanley no. 7 with its original box looks like its never been used so very happy I payed 130 pounds .
Three no 6s? Careful or you'll open the gates of Hell.
Yes, there is always that possibility.
Thanks for watching.
If you had a choice between a #6 and #7, would you get the 6 per Paul Sellers?
Good #6 comparison and learned a lot. Thanks
Tough Q Steve
It all depends on your need.
If most of your work is 3' or less in length you can get by with #6, 5-1/2 or even a #5
Longer jointing requires more care with shorter planes or proper use of longer ones.
Does that make sense?
Thanks for watching.
@@DustySplinters Thanks for the insight, but let me rephrase my question, if you had to chose only one of the two planes, would you go with #6 or #7?
@@SW-jo7vy I use my #6 more than my #7
The 7 is generally not necessary. It is also exponentially harder to flatten properly (yes there are proper but painful way to do it) over the 6. The 8 is even more so. You would NOT need more than a 6 for most jobs if you have 1. Flattened it and 2. Set it up to do jointing. A fore plane type of aggressive cut setup is probably not what you want for jointing.
“The Luban-the modern day Quanshang.” 😂