3D Printed Power Tools - METAL SAW
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ม.ค. 2021
- Another good example of how powerful 3D printing technology can be. In this video, I designed, printed, and built a real working metal saw. It's all cost me less than 25euro. This is a nice, useful, and practical DIY tool that is great on every maker's table. Is this better than a real metal saw or angle grinder? - probably not, but there is value to make stuff like this by yourself.
Stl files are not free this time but don't worry, this cost really less. If you buy these, you support me and my channel and I can continue making content like this. Thanks! :)
STL FILES: thangs.com/Lets-Print/Metal-S...
Music from Motion Array (motionarray.com)
______________________________________________________
Links:
895 DC motors: ali.ski/kQD43P
Angle grinder disc connector: ali.ski/D14cl
______________________________________________________
Storage box on my table: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadge...
Name sign on my table: • 3D Printed Name Sign W...
Facebook: www. letsprintyoutube - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Hey mate, you should use bearing to hold the shaft. The coupling is only to transmit the movement from the motor to the shaft, no for holding it. Your design it's dangerous and it's not going to last. Anyway, I like your channel. Thumbs up mate!
yup, those couplings are designed to flex also threaded rods are not concentric.
That cracks/delamination in the ABS part often happens when printing without enclosure. Such cracks can be quite a weak spot in a part that takes mechanical stress. The flex coupler feels wrong. These are typically needed where you need some flexibility between connections. I would try to mount it rigidly as you do not want any wobble/bending once applying pressure. Also I'm not sure about those plastic disc holders. Metal seems just more like it. Other than that, very cool.
Wanted to mention along with the other helpful comments, the wobble (after filing the seam) is probably largely in part due to using threaded rod as your method of connecting the whole disk assembly. Threaded rods are almost _never_ straight, they've always got some bend to them.
That sleeve you took off the motor at 0:50 increases the torque of the motor, you should try to leave them on in the future if you need tq!
How so? Does it add more metal / density for the magnets to act on? Or is it just for rigidity?
you should design and print an attachment for sharpening drill bits! would be super useful and relatively easy to pull off.
Great idea
I would definitely need one of those
I struggle to understand how someone with the obvious intelligence to produce this would not have a set of spanners or sockets??
$
Engineer here. The coupler you used for mounting the cutting disc is used for the correction of angular errors between two shafts. You should use a stiff coulper like the one of your 3d printer, or similar to that, if you want to get rid of the vibrations
Hi, Engineer here. "Lots of things"..........
I live the "press fit" extra safety guard cover. By the sound of it it's from pla as well. You try to just get the jobs done and done quickly with no extra....."technical definition": efficient. Love it. Same as me. Thank you.
Some of the vibrations you are getting are coming from the load the disk is placing on the rod it is on. You should find a way to support it at both ends and make sure the motor cannot move around in its housing.
This is such a good first prototype I'm excited to see what else you add to it. Like a forever battery or power button on the handle ECT
NEVER use a spinning rod open ended! You need bearings on both ends to keep it steady, otherwise you will run the risk of shattering the disk or most probably ruin the piece you're working on. Also use a smooth alu or steel rod, not a long screw. Finally, if you are into making power tools, always fortify the body parts with aluminum sheets. Angle grinders are on top of the deadliest power tools league 😉
this is dangerous and goofy and i love you
Thx 4 making the stls public
Great video and print.... this style of saw is technically a mitre saw and very useful.... what disks are you using... when doing steel work I find that the thin "cut-off" disks cut much faster than standard grinder disks
Before reading any comments I was redesigning it in my head with the following improvements:
1. A bearing support on the outside of the disc. I thought a 1603 might be a nice snug fit on 8mm as threaded rod is typically undersize.
2. Bearings at each end of the hinge point for more smooth cutting operation
3. A clamp to hold the workpiece in the V
4. A 3D printed cycloid gearbox (with all steel pins) for speed reduction. Maybe 10:1 for 1,200 rpm at 10x the torque or perhaps 5:1.
5. A switch on the saw somewhere to disconnect power (possibly like an e-stop in case of emergency)
6. A torsion spring or two to hold the saw up. You can get one out of a cheap plastic clamp.
But this is a great starting point with obviously a lot of thought and work put in already. Cheers.
You could add a support bearing on the threaded shaft integrated in the side cover and that should eliminate the vibration and prevent the blade from wobbling.
Great idea
dude its insane what you build with a 3d printer 🖨 I love it keep the videos coming
Bro make shorts of these videos and upload them that will definitely help the channel to grow
With love from INDIA.
woooooooooo finally you even started making tools .you just made me your big fan;)
great work
great challenge!
keep it up bro
you should add a trigger button so that you can easly and quickly turn it on and off
If you reprint the clip on cover with a 608 bearing in the middle, it will support the end of the threaded rod in the coupler.
I see the rod shaking when it was cutting rod.
WOW! This is amazing! I agree with other commenters it should be supported from both sides, on bearings or something. Even if it's harder to change blades its safer.
We know 3d prints are strong when made right. Wonder how big of a motor and saw blade you can use?
Hey cool videos man. To power that saw get yourself a 24V DC power supply. And to reduce the amp draw and power consumption, use a gear out pulley reduction between the motor and cutting wheel spindle. Even 2:1 would double the torque and half the amp draw.
would kinda be nice to see a angle grinder version of this (aka adapt the design to use a standard angle grinder)
Very good project 👍
If I may...
Two suggestions:
use bearing blocks (2x) with cutting disc you're bending the motor shaft. that motor wont last long and you're increase the vibrations but cutting unevenly.
use a gearbox or chain/belt drive with step down speed a bit but increase the torque as you're stalling the motor a lot.
Very nice! I love every contribution to 3D printing, that's not another dust catching ugly plastic sculpture of whatever!
Love your ideas and videos ❤️❤️ do a drilling machine next time 🙂
you should put a ball bearing on the unsuported end of the blade axis, and possibly connect the motor to that axle with a belt, thus eliminating play and ensuring the axle holding the blade is stiff.
I get that you wanted to try & do the whole thing more or less from scratch, but if I were doing it I would have started with a ready-made mains-powered angle grinder, & then made attachments & mounts for it.
Add 1 of your gearboxes to create more torque so the blade doesn't slow doen as fast and then attache a faster motor to compansate for the loss in speed
Did you wire that motor up with speaker cable?
How'd it work after the upgraded connector?
Great video, super channel
You are using a Flexible coupler as a holder for your shaft....of course it will bend and vibrate! You need to support the shaft on some bearings and then conect the motor to it with the coupler!
Also stop using batteries. Just make yourself a high power suppy with a microwave transformer. You can easily make a 12-24v secundary winding that can do 1000W or over 3000W peak at whatever voltage you want. Just make sure you use a big chuncky bridge rectifier and also a high power electrolitic capasitor because otherwise they will overheat when you draw too much power from the transformer.
How are you going to control 775 overheating .
Twist the 8mm rod when the saw starts to bog down. Should save you time and stress on the wheel.
Nice men
Why not using a meanwell ac to dc converter? This will give way better powerjuice to the engine because of the higher amperes. It wouldn't surprise me if it wouldn't slow down that much anymore when you reach the end of the cut of the material.
Great project btw!
Годно !!!
i like it. but you have to look the grinder disc rpm rating. i think your motor is faster no load speed. it can be very dangerous. and petg cant stop it. thanks for sharing
A better idea would be to buy a cheap angle grinder and print a mount for it so you could use it like this.
Love Frome bangladesh sir
Pls make a tablet saw, a lathe, a mill And a drill press
Can you do it with a seven inch saw?
An angle grinder jig would work alot better, but good video!! I like your content
With a thiner disk, smaller diameter, you should preserve motor's torque. The coupler is a bad idea IMHO. What about gluing a metal rod directly on the motor's shaft, then remove the wobble by turning/sanding it to get a perfectly alligned shaft ? Then you can thread it.
I wouldn't think gluing is feasible. For once because you'd have shear stress and glues don't perform well with that. Secondly, balancing would be a nightmare.
@@Longestnickevaaaaaar I did it on a 1500w motor and it worked ;)
@@axelSixtySix Alright then. I can't say anything to that. :D
Sir plzzz make a press drill machine in 3d printer
Tip use Arbor adapters instead of that coupler, seriously that makes me nerveous check creative channel 4 the links
I wish I had a 3d printer
Bro ..please design table saw from 3D printed
Don't directly connect it to motor shaft instead use a gear like in drill machines
A drill press would be mad.
$18 for a brushed motor? Can get a decent brushless with controller for probably $20-25.
How many RPM?
Hello, 12 volts = 3000RPM and 24 volts = 6000RPM
Would you be interested in helping us with a project?
Учи мат часть!
Движок -> муфта -> вал на подшипника, иногда даже на радиально упорных с обеих сторон!!
where are u from i like ur accent :))))))
NO cooling with PETG!!!
Все же лучше делать из маленькой готовой болгарки УШМ (цена та же будет, как тут мотор +БП, а стойку уже печатать. И ДА, по башке с этой муфты улетит диск. Очень ОПАСНОЕ крепление.
You should not use a shaft coupler like that. Real bad idea, not safe.
Always use personal protection gear... you will need it when the coupler disengage and the disc start flying! This is really dangerous and badly designed! 😔
This is how people loose fingers... Those DC motors are trash at best, having a cutting disc rotating on it with a 5-10cm lever is just asking for shrapnel in your face...
I don't get why anyone would be using brushed DC motors in 2021 ?_?
+
Nice, another fire hazard, if not worse
It's cool. But not powerful. Like
It's totally not safe instrument. Don't use it.
Do not try this at home.