He really knows what he's talking about and it's logic at all ! Most of the time when my girlfriend's chevy cruze 2015 RS have that F**** StabiliTrak pop up on the dash, the Economy battery pops too at the same time. It means the voltage is at the lowest. I've changed almost everything. Exhaust manifold, map sensor, motor cover, Maf sensor, Catalystic, prestone tube and waterpump (Thinking about maybe it's overheating causing that engine to jumps up and down crazy, but at least that's a common problem too in cruze) Right now I've just purchasing the ground cable, the voltage sensor and a new coil pack to see if it fix on my side too, Will be back on comment if it works for us too.
So I have a 2016 Chevy Cruz turbo engine and what my car is doing is it drove fine for about an hour and a half all the way to LA as soon as I got off the freeway came to a stop at the light and when I went to go it let me go, but then it acted as if my brakes were being applied kind of heavily, but it was not pushing my brake pedal down so then I would go to accelerate And then it would start accelerating and then do it again then you could push the gas through it doing its little break or slip or whatever and it just continues to do it, but it doesn’t do it in reverse and it doesn’t do it in first, but something is telling me that it is not the transmission even though everyone says it is something is telling me it’s not the transmission because I have not had any kind of issue with my transmission leading up to this but I have had a vacuum leak code pop and now it is popping a P0420 code only and it had popped a P01011 amongst a couple other codes having to do with pretty much a leak problem and I knew I had a massive leak, but I wasn’t able to specify where but help does anyone know what the fuck is going on cause I’m stumped everyone wants to tell me it’s the transmission but something tells me inside because I have some. What a good idea and how to work on cars and how cars function and I am so stumped specially because I replace the pressure map sensor and crankshaft sensor. I have not done the maf sensor but I’m gonna do that next, but something is telling me. It is the brakes because when I am driving, it sounds as if the brakes are applied somewhere like a dragging sound almost….HELP PLEASE N THANKS U I cannot get over a few miles an hour without it doing this
If it were your brakes, you could put the car on a hill, put it in neutral and take your foot off the brakes and the car wouldn't roll or not roll as much as it should given the grade of the hill. With that being said, a brake caliper could be sticking. You would need to pull the wheels off and have a look to see if the piston is retracted. 2016 is a split year for the cars. The first half was the older style turbo engine. The second half was the newer. If it is an early one, you would need to do the PCV fix kit and more than likely a valve cover gasket to eliminate that issue. Since you are throwing that code and the bad cat code, it makes me think you are getting way too much air into the system, the O2 is reading incorrectly and screwing with the fuel trims, causing bad running conditions. It sounds like you may have a couple different issues happening at the same time.
My 2015 cruze has same issue , changed the neg battery wire and same , now I noticed it turns off when engine is at running temp . Can it be something else , it comes on alot
The negative battery cable alone would normally just be the service stabilitrak warning. That doesn't mean that if another code is present the negative battery cable isn't also shot.
@greasyfingergarage I have a 2016 cruze carryover model, so it's basically a 2015. Car started shaking randomly one day, threw stabilitrak and traction on the dash. Got a obd2 scanner and checked the codes, it was camshaft, misfire and catalyst def. I changed the plugs and the coil pack and all the codes are gone now, but it still shakes and says stabilitrak. I didn't change the negative cable because it doesn't look like the stock ones I've seen in videos, doesn't say 20AA like they do, it looks like the cable in this video. Think it could still he 5he cable? My cable has the same sticker as the one I would buy new from gm. I even checked the ecm plugs after changing coils etc, and they look perfectly clean.
@@AcidxAnarchy It could still be the cable. I wouldn't buy a GM cable. I would buy a replacement from O'reillys or something. Just make sure you get the cable that has the angled notch to attach the other ground strap to it. Make sure you check all of your grounds and that they are tight. The one to the head that is directly below the coil pack connector likes to work itself out. You can also check your connectors to the cam position sensors/VVT solenoids. If you haven't replaced them yet, the seals leak on those and if you are one of the lucky ones, oil will make its way into the connectors themselves. I have a video on how to swap those out as well.
@@greasyfingergarage thanks man, I appreciate it. You know if the wheel sensors could cause the car to shake and throw stabilitrak? I've seen people saying to check those, but I was sitting still when it started shaking. Pulled into a parking spot and a minute or two later it started, just idling and had the heat on. Also, do you think it would throw codes If it was something like a vacuum leak?
@@AcidxAnarchy I'm not sure what wheel sensors you are referring to. If you are meaning the TPMS sensors, definitely not. They will through pressure warnings and tell you to service the TPMS system. Vacuum leaks can throw codes but usually won't cause a stabilitrak issue. You can look at the thumbnail for my PCV fix kit and catch can install video for a list of all the vacuum leak and/or adjacent to vacuum leak codes that can happen.
I tightened the front grounds, disconnected negative battery terminal cable to clear engine light and used my new spare key..so far so good.."junk car"
I have a question I have a 2013 Chevy Cruze my car just cuts off for a short second and then when it comes on it says service stabilitrak and goes right off. No engine light or nothing when I use the code reader no code comes up where do I go from here
I would hazard to guess that it is a ground issue. Be it the negative battery cable or other grounds coming loose. If the negative cable hasn't been replaced yet, do that first. Then follow the rest of the steps in the video to try and pin it down. If it isn't throwing any codes, I wouldn't think it is coming from the coil. It would also be advisable to take your car to an auto parts store and get a load test run on the charging system just in case.
Finally found a person who knows what he's talking about. Thanks
I don't know if I would go that far. But I know enough to be dangerous.
He really knows what he's talking about and it's logic at all ! Most of the time when my girlfriend's chevy cruze 2015 RS have that F**** StabiliTrak pop up on the dash, the Economy battery pops too at the same time. It means the voltage is at the lowest. I've changed almost everything. Exhaust manifold, map sensor, motor cover, Maf sensor, Catalystic, prestone tube and waterpump (Thinking about maybe it's overheating causing that engine to jumps up and down crazy, but at least that's a common problem too in cruze) Right now I've just purchasing the ground cable, the voltage sensor and a new coil pack to see if it fix on my side too, Will be back on comment if it works for us too.
Thank You! Most of the other videos on this issue do not address the electrical system.
No problem
So I have a 2016 Chevy Cruz turbo engine and what my car is doing is it drove fine for about an hour and a half all the way to LA as soon as I got off the freeway came to a stop at the light and when I went to go it let me go, but then it acted as if my brakes were being applied kind of heavily, but it was not pushing my brake pedal down so then I would go to accelerate And then it would start accelerating and then do it again then you could push the gas through it doing its little break or slip or whatever and it just continues to do it, but it doesn’t do it in reverse and it doesn’t do it in first, but something is telling me that it is not the transmission even though everyone says it is something is telling me it’s not the transmission because I have not had any kind of issue with my transmission leading up to this but I have had a vacuum leak code pop and now it is popping a P0420 code only and it had popped a P01011 amongst a couple other codes having to do with pretty much a leak problem and I knew I had a massive leak, but I wasn’t able to specify where but help does anyone know what the fuck is going on cause I’m stumped everyone wants to tell me it’s the transmission but something tells me inside because I have some. What a good idea and how to work on cars and how cars function and I am so stumped specially because I replace the pressure map sensor and crankshaft sensor. I have not done the maf sensor but I’m gonna do that next, but something is telling me. It is the brakes because when I am driving, it sounds as if the brakes are applied somewhere like a dragging sound almost….HELP PLEASE N THANKS U I cannot get over a few miles an hour without it doing this
If it were your brakes, you could put the car on a hill, put it in neutral and take your foot off the brakes and the car wouldn't roll or not roll as much as it should given the grade of the hill. With that being said, a brake caliper could be sticking. You would need to pull the wheels off and have a look to see if the piston is retracted. 2016 is a split year for the cars. The first half was the older style turbo engine. The second half was the newer. If it is an early one, you would need to do the PCV fix kit and more than likely a valve cover gasket to eliminate that issue. Since you are throwing that code and the bad cat code, it makes me think you are getting way too much air into the system, the O2 is reading incorrectly and screwing with the fuel trims, causing bad running conditions. It sounds like you may have a couple different issues happening at the same time.
Thank you
No problem
You’re awesome thank you
I merely do what I can.
My 2015 cruze has same issue , changed the neg battery wire and same , now I noticed it turns off when engine is at running temp . Can it be something else , it comes on alot
Your coil pack could be heat soaking. If you are also throwing a misfire code, it would be the coil.
Did you get any codes when it is the negative battery cable?
The negative battery cable alone would normally just be the service stabilitrak warning. That doesn't mean that if another code is present the negative battery cable isn't also shot.
@greasyfingergarage I have a 2016 cruze carryover model, so it's basically a 2015. Car started shaking randomly one day, threw stabilitrak and traction on the dash. Got a obd2 scanner and checked the codes, it was camshaft, misfire and catalyst def. I changed the plugs and the coil pack and all the codes are gone now, but it still shakes and says stabilitrak. I didn't change the negative cable because it doesn't look like the stock ones I've seen in videos, doesn't say 20AA like they do, it looks like the cable in this video. Think it could still he 5he cable? My cable has the same sticker as the one I would buy new from gm. I even checked the ecm plugs after changing coils etc, and they look perfectly clean.
@@AcidxAnarchy It could still be the cable. I wouldn't buy a GM cable. I would buy a replacement from O'reillys or something. Just make sure you get the cable that has the angled notch to attach the other ground strap to it. Make sure you check all of your grounds and that they are tight. The one to the head that is directly below the coil pack connector likes to work itself out. You can also check your connectors to the cam position sensors/VVT solenoids. If you haven't replaced them yet, the seals leak on those and if you are one of the lucky ones, oil will make its way into the connectors themselves. I have a video on how to swap those out as well.
@@greasyfingergarage thanks man, I appreciate it. You know if the wheel sensors could cause the car to shake and throw stabilitrak? I've seen people saying to check those, but I was sitting still when it started shaking. Pulled into a parking spot and a minute or two later it started, just idling and had the heat on. Also, do you think it would throw codes If it was something like a vacuum leak?
@@AcidxAnarchy I'm not sure what wheel sensors you are referring to. If you are meaning the TPMS sensors, definitely not. They will through pressure warnings and tell you to service the TPMS system. Vacuum leaks can throw codes but usually won't cause a stabilitrak issue. You can look at the thumbnail for my PCV fix kit and catch can install video for a list of all the vacuum leak and/or adjacent to vacuum leak codes that can happen.
I tightened the front grounds, disconnected negative battery terminal cable to clear engine light and used my new spare key..so far so good.."junk car"
Right now I have all 3 power steering stablia track and traction control. I just changed the ground to a brand new ac delco one and it's still bad
Disconnect the negative for 30 minutes to let the computer reset. Than check and see if you have the same issue.
I have a question I have a 2013 Chevy Cruze my car just cuts off for a short second and then when it comes on it says service stabilitrak and goes right off. No engine light or nothing when I use the code reader no code comes up where do I go from here
I would hazard to guess that it is a ground issue. Be it the negative battery cable or other grounds coming loose. If the negative cable hasn't been replaced yet, do that first. Then follow the rest of the steps in the video to try and pin it down. If it isn't throwing any codes, I wouldn't think it is coming from the coil. It would also be advisable to take your car to an auto parts store and get a load test run on the charging system just in case.