I just had the P0171 & P1101 codes come on back in August. I took it apart & cleaned everything. That lasted just over 5 months & I knew this was coming after researching those codes. I just bought that exact kit with the catch can. Awesome video guy. THANK YOU so much for showing everything! Just wish I did it when it was still warm out.🤦♂🥶😂I'm in Pittsburgh in December...
No problem. I try to make things as easy as possible for someone watching so they can get the job done and not have to worry about trying to track more information down.
@@greasyfingergarageHey I have two questions tho, how did u tighten the holder for the catch can because my hands cannot secure that damn bolt and r the hoses connected to the catch can supposed to be tightened or secured at all
@@bruhbro I used duct tape to hold the bolt in the bracket and the bracket to the car. Put the nut on bolt in the fender well and used a gear wrench to tighten it up. The hoses to the can are held on with hose clamps.
Friend, I placed the oil trap wrong, the line that comes out of the gases goes directly to the oil collector, then it comes out without clean oil and there is the t connection to the PCV and turbo.
i had the failure happen, saved me thousand dollars literally.. been 20k miles and still going good. best fix ever, no need to replace the entire intake!
Great video. I don’t have the time to watch the whole thing again but I did watch it about 3 months ago. I find that the hardest part about installing these kits is the different “ connectors “ and how to remove them. Push this pin out and press this tab on the back or squeeze both sides of this plastic ring and pull off etc. I hope I can find this again later when I have time because I have the V3.4 kit but couldn’t get two of the connectors off. Luckily I didn’t cut anything first. Dre Dan who sells this kit is really good. He has already answered a few questions I had. Don’t get customer service like that too often. My 2019 Buick Encore has the 1.4 litre turbo and everything looks the same except for where that hose between the intake PCV and the turbo inlet PCV connects. On my Encore the hose makes two 45degree or so bends ( 45 degree bend plastic elbows ) instead of it being 1 continuous hose. The turbo inlet connection is a bit easier as it’s halfway between th3 air box and the turbo so much easier to access. I’ll probably just need to find 4 more clamps ( I prefer the ones in the kit as opposed to the screw hose clamps as they loosen over time.
The only thing consistent with GM engineering is inconsistencies. As far as those clamps go, the larger hoses on the connectors are so frickin tight that you don't even need any clamps. So with that being said, old school worm gear clamps will work just fine.
Great explanation of how the pcv system works. My question is, why bother even rerouting the crankcase waste to the turbo at all? Any intake system should have clean air and clean fuel. Why introduce crankcase garbage? Why not plug the dump fittings entering the turbo and run that hose down under the car, or to the inlet of the catch can?
Emissions and the fact that it is a closed-loop system. Back when everything was carbureted, you would just stick a breather in the valve cover that would vent the pressure to atmosphere and call it done. In an effort to help lower emissions, the excess pressure was then directed back to the intake tract to help burn off any remaining hydrocarbons that has slipped past the rings into the crankcase and then be directed out through the cat. When OBD1 came along, the PCV system was nothing more than a check valve in the valve cover with a hose that tied back into the intake at some point. That was pretty much it and the computer didn't monitor it at all. When everything switched over to OBD2, there were sensors added for everything and the computer would start live monitoring every system of the car. The PCV system was then considered closed-loop and the airflow coming through that system was accounted for and programmed to be within a prescribed threshold limit to be functioning correctly. So being that it is a closed-loop, if you were to just dumb the crankcase pressure out without running it back through the system, the computer would read as your car having a massive leak and throw a myriad of codes. To do something as you are asking about would require reprogramming the computer to completely eliminate the PCV system. Modern cars are a tradeoff between maximum efficiency and maximum performance. When it comes to the PCV system, they actually do help with emissions (even if a little dirty air makes it back around to be burned again) a bit as evidenced by the fact that they are still around. Unlike the power-robbing, weight-adding Smog/AIR pumps from the 70s and 80s that existed solely to pump fresh air into the exhaust to make emissions at the tailpipe read lower instead of actually doing anything.
@@greasyfingergarage I hate failing smogs over the useless AIR system being missing. Like you said, it just tricks the probe, doesn’t actually help emissions.
@@jakegenocide Most states don't even bother checking for them or doing those sorts of emissions tests on vintage vehicles anymore. And That is a good thing.
It’s very important when using a catch can system to drain out the can every 1000-2000 miles depending on how much oil it’s catching. The “ vapour “ ( mist ) can easily freeze in colder temperatures and cause Check Engine lights / engine codes, so cleaning / drawing the can out regularly is a good idea.
Yes the can definitely needs to be emptied out from time to time. The catch can in the kit has a dipstick you can check to see what the level is and if you need to empty out.
just did this and luckily I had already ordered a new PCV Hose for this car months earlier. Lucky I did because the valve in the bottom part.( near the turbo) eas completely gone. When you take that hose off if you can blow air from that bottom part then the valve is missing. On the new one when you look in that bottom part of that hose connector, you can clearly see the orange valve. You can actually suck through but you shouldn’t be able to blow through it. I simply took the new PCV hose. I got and cut the ends of it off to use instead of the old one. Not expensive at all on eBay or wherever anyways, I think this is something important people should know. If you did it without replacing the bottom part of that hose then you are probably missing that valve also. Should be easily remedied and replaced.
I don't think the valve being in the hose you are replacing matters when you do this. Those are replaced by the external check valve in the kit. Just replacing the PCV hose itself can sometimes fix the issues since that is leaking pressure back. But they just end up blowing again at some point. The purpose of the kit is to replace the PCV system with something that doesn't suck.
i am wanting to do this to my 1.8. i have a catch can already was just wondering if you could give me the diameters of all the fittings and hoses i would need?
I have no idea what you would need on a 1.8. I bought a kit specifically for the 1.4 from Supercruzes/cruzekits. I believe they are 3/4" hoses in that kit.
So I have a 2016 Chevy Cruz turbo engine and what my car is doing is it drove fine for about an hour and a half all the way to LA as soon as I got off the freeway came to a stop at the light and when I went to go it let me go, but then it acted as if my brakes were being applied kind of heavily, but it was not pushing my brake pedal down so then I would go to accelerate And then it would start accelerating and then do it again then you could push the gas through it doing its little break or slip or whatever and it just continues to do it, but it doesn’t do it in reverse and it doesn’t do it in first, but something is telling me that it is not the transmission even though everyone says it is something is telling me it’s not the transmission because I have not had any kind of issue with my transmission leading up to this but I have had a vacuum leak code pop and now it is popping a P0420 code only and it had popped a P01011 amongst a couple other codes having to do with pretty much a leak problem and I knew I had a massive leak, but I wasn’t able to specify where but help does anyone know what the fuck is going on cause I’m stumped everyone wants to tell me it’s the transmission but something tells me inside because I have some. What a good idea and how to work on cars and how cars function and I am so stumped specially because I replace the pressure map sensor and crankshaft sensor. I have not done the maf sensor but I’m gonna do that next, but something is telling me. It is the brakes because when I am driving, it sounds as if the brakes are applied somewhere like a dragging sound almost….HELP PLEASE N THANKS U I cannot get over a few miles an hour without it doing this
Check the diaphragm in the valve cover to see if it is blown by pressing your finger over the hole while it is running to see if it is making any sort of whistling sound. If that is good, check the PCV hose that runs from the intake down to the turbo. They are super brittle plastic that cracks over time and can cause a leak. The connection at the turbo is a quasi check valve that you should not be able to blow air back through. If you can, replace that hose. There is also a chance that the small little plastic gasket went missing from the connection of that hose to the intake that can cause a leak.
I have a 2014 Chevy Sonic with a non-turbo 1.8L engine. I am not a mechanic but stumbled upon your video. My question is that I think my Sonic has this problem too but I don't see a kit for it. The problem is that after driving for 10 minutes, it starts running rough and there is squealing around the cranskshaft area. I cant remeber the service engine code but it was something about running too lean. I also noticed my dipstick had some suction on it when I pulled it out. I also am afraid to drive it because when I had it in park and tapped the gas pedal the engine revved up by itself to around 3000 rpm then slowly came back down. Does this sound like the same problem you have with the 1.4L engines? I also like to mention I only have 62,000 miles on it. Any advice would be appreciated.
The PCV issue is a predominately 1.4L turbo engine issue. The 1.8L are generally less prone to issues. With that being said, it doesn't mean that you may have a PCV problem. Without knowing what the code is exactly, it could be a multitude of things. If it is running lean, that means its getting too much air. That could be happening anywhere in the intake system, but usually after the MAF. You may have a loose hose. You may have a cracked hose. You may have a dirty sensor. You may have just changed your air filter and not closed the box correctly. I would recommend searching your specific problem for that specific engine and see what you can find. As far as the squeaking around the crank and the dipstick noise, I would guess that your crank seal has blown out and needs a replacement.
Thanks for the feedback. I really want to do this kit and fix problem ahead before it causes problems. Everything looks straight forward except putting the epoxy with adhesive and cap. I really get confused and wouldn't know what I would be looking for. Does the kit come with instructions on how to take off original and cap it off with new kit? Thanks again
I thought I did a fairly decent job explaining it. At 9:50 in the video I take a pic and just poke at the orange nipple in the intake until it breaks up and I can push the pic through the hole without resistance. I then use a shop vac to suck all the pieces up in there. Anything that is on the other side of the wall where the rest of the PCV is will just get burned up in the engine. (This happens all the time on their own when they fail). At 26:00 I go through the process of putting the plug in. You can also look up the install video made by the PCV fix kit guy himself if you want some more info as well.
I've replaced the valve cover, intake and throttle body a couple of weeks ago. I have everything needed to do this setup except for the clip that you epoxy for the pcv inside the intake. Do you have to do this process since I've put a new intake on? If so do you have a part number just for that small clip or where to buy?
Since you already replaced the intake, you do not need to do this. The intake will have a new PCV diaphragm in it that will work, for a given time. How long it lasts is yet to be determined. I would just run it the way it is now until it starts throwing any of the codes that can be caused by the PCV issue (it will fall eventually since the design is still the same). As far as that little insertable button clip thing that comes in it, it just comes with the kit. No idea what the name of it would be or if there were some sort of part number. I would imagine it was chosen because it fits in the tube while the intake is still in the car. You could reach out to the cruzekits guy and ask him. Maybe he can just send you one. When you had the new intake out before you installed it, you could have popped out that diaphragm and ran a screw into the hole and epoxied the rest of the small ones shut. I would just run it like it is for now until the issues arise. Just understand that they will happen again at some point.
The new intake will eventually do the same thing as the old one. The “ plug “ from this kit replaces and fixes that inadequate and flimsy rubber??? nipple thing.
I have a catch can for my 2000 Toyota with 210K. I can see the oil mist from the PCV hose in the headlights. I don’t want it to turn into carbon buildup.
I don't know what the name of that piece is or if it is available individually. I looked up exploded diagram views of the PCV system and it shows everything in that hose to be one unit. You may have to call the parts department of a dealership and ask them to see if their system shows it. If not, you would have to get the entire hose and cut the connector out of that. Maybe you have gotten lucky though and the piece isn't missing but is actually stuck up inside the elbow. If it is extra dirty, it could be there without you being able to see it.
The PCV out of the valve cover to the intake is how the system used to work on OBD1 cars. I do not know if doing that exact layout would work on a forced induction system. You would also need to modify the valve cover for a tie-in in some way. So you would have to pull the cover off to drill and tap something into it without getting plastic in the head. You also won't be able to tie directly into the current plastic line that runs from the intake to the turbo. It will just disintegrate on you. ZZperformace offers a kit that runs out of a new oil fill cap to the turbo, then new lines to a spacer that goes between the intake and the head. So a long answer to your quick question. But I truly don't know if that layout would work. My assumption would be no and you would still be throwing codes.
@@levialston518 The biggest issue is making a solution that works without tripping any of the obnoxious and unneeded sensors so the car stops throwing codes. More computer controls means more things that can cause problems with said controls.
Can you tell me what was the mileage on the Cruze when you did this job? I have a 2014 Chevy Cruze Lt with turbo and mileage is at 86 thousand. Thanks for the video any feedback appreciated
Vacuum is made in an engine by the piston being pulled down in the cylinder and the intake valve being open. Think of drinking through a straw. The amount of vacuum that is made is determined by a bunch of factors relating to cam position, LSA, valve overlap, etc. The older PCVs systems would just dump the excess pressure to the atmosphere. They were changed to reroute the crankcase pressure back through the intake to try and burn off anything that didn't get burned off the first go around. So not only does the intake stroke process suck in fresh air, it is also using that vacuum to suck in the excess crankcase pressure. It is a combination of having the correct amount of vacuum, the correct amount of crankcase pressure, the correct valve in between those two and a design that doesn't suck at its job.
Are you positive your battery is good? Clicking when trying to start is usually a dead giveaway of a junk battery. Keep in mind that even if you check the voltage of the battery it can show up having a full 12volts when it has a dead cell inside. Make sure the battery is fully charged and take it to get a load test at any auto parts store. Another sign its the battery is if you are able to start the car by jumping it.
Clicking could also be the starter solenoid I think? Key or push button start? Try turning the key just until the on position and right back again two or three times. Not dur3 how you would do that width pudgy button start.
I’ve replaced my valve cover and all and my Chevy Cruze idle is kinda funny when I come to a stop the car still wants to move like it will jump any suggestions??
Sounds like you are describing the engine surging. That is usually caused by air getting sucked in someplace other than just the intake. If you have any codes, see what they are saying. I don't know what all you took off to change the valve cover but you may have not put everything back on exactly correct. My default assumption though would be that it is related to the PCV in general. You can pull the hose off the intake and look in to see if you see the nipple in the intake. Even if it is there it doesn't mean that it is functioning correctly though. I would recommend doing at least the PCV fix kit. You don't need to do the catch can unless you want to do it as well.
I have a 2013 base model 1.8 L non-turbo.. just change the coils and spark plugs and valve cover gasket because it was leaking causing skipping while I had the valve cover off I cleaned it PCV valve openings with the valve cover off mates for everything was drained wiped cleaned reinstalled valve cover new gaskets Etc stock car up no more skipping so the coil pack and spark plugs and Etc take care of that but somehow I ruined my PCV valve hissing and making noises out of the valve cover of course similar car but different engine on Turbo instead of buying a new valve cover with the new PCV valve set up in the cover can I just disconnect what's there and put a catch can where am I going to need that vacuum leak fixed
I have no experience with the 1.8, so I am probably not the best person to answer this question. I do believe the PCVs are far better in the 1.8 than the 1.4 and can be replaced independently since they aren't a part of the intake like the 1.4. I also do not know if the 1.8 is overpressurized like the 1.4 due to the turbo and terrible PCV design. If you were wanting to add a catch can, I would imagine that it could be put inline of wherever the PCV hose runs, as long as it isn't affecting the flow around the EVAP system. You will still need to have some sort of PCV valve in the loop though. Your best bet would be to look and see if Supercruzes or ZZP offers a catch can kit for the 1.8 and see how it works. You could also probably ask them the question directly. They would be more knowledgeable about it than I.
You can get that from Supercruzes. It is the first option from the dropdown for the PCV fix kits. It comes with the can, bracket and hose kit to integrate it into the kit you already have. You can always call them up to be sure though.
What do you mean by more efficient? I personally have zero experience with the ZZP kit so I can't speak for much that goes into it. I do believe that their kit is only offered with the catch can and the price is the same as doing the combo kit that I did. I think they both use the same catch can. The ZZP kit is definitely more "professional" looking with the mounting brackets and molded hoses. I do believe that you have to pull the intake off for the ZZP kit to add some sort of spacer (don't quote me on that). If that is the case though, you could just go with the updated GM intake that supposedly fixes the PCV issue (I have no experience with that intake either). In the end, it is multiple options that address the issue in different ways. I just chose to go this route, and it is the only thing I can speak from experience on.
While every car runs, it has water vapor, air and oil mixing together, forming a funky orangish sludge. How much is produced depends on a lot of different factors. The catch can separates that sludge from the air being fed back into the intake to be reburned. Does a car need a catch can to run? No. I can't think of a single car that comes with one from the factory (mostly because it would just be something else that the owner would have to keep track of). They definitely have their benefits though. You just have to decide if the added cost of a catch can is worth it for doing the fix. But you can do just the fix kit and it will take care of the PCV issues.
Piss poor engineering from the get-go. That's why they have all the problems. As far as why your car still has too much pressure, who knows. Did you clean out the PCV port enough when you did the install? If you did this exact kit, is the check valve aligned in the correct direction? I'm also 100% convinced that these cars throw codes for problems that don't actually exist. Its pretty obnoxious.
Two things to check. Take that PCV fitting off of where you put in the plug. Maybe the plug and JB Weld didn’t completely cover the centre hole where the orange nipple was or it wasn’t cleaned and dried enough before you installed it. Also after installing the plug did you leave the hole unplugged for at least 15 hours before reattaching the fitting over the hole? If you put everything together and start the car up right away the JB Weld could be blown out of the holes. One other thing it might be is that the Purge Valve in the back may have already been faulty which will throw those codes too. Get a new purge valve and redo that part of the kit. Lastly, did you remove the intake “ beauty cover “ and check that diaphragm on the valve cover? If it makes a “ clicking sound “ with the engine idling or if a piece of Kleenex gets sucked or pushed away from that diaphragm then that part may have already been destroyed.
I am assuming you are asking why your car would throw a check engine light. There are tons of different reasons that your car could have one. If the light is on, you need to get the codes scanned. Then you can start the process of narrowing down what it is causing it to throw the light.
No clue. I do know that there were clearly enough issues that GM would start covering the valve cover fixes and refund stuff that was already done, to an extent. They wouldn't refund the money for the crank seal failing due to it. Or the oil pan gasket getting blown out. If it is a class action lawsuit, it means nothing. The only people that benefit from those are the lawyers. They get 98% of the money and everyone else comes away with like $2.37.
@@greasyfingergarageHe said it's a complicated job 😂Friend, do you think it's a good idea Remove the intake manifold and remove the oil and carbon. My throttle body and intercooler hoses have some oil on them or do I just clean the diaphragm holes and install the kit Gracias amigo
@@2PacMejia Ah. Finaly an answer to the mystery. I can't say whether or not it is a good idea to remove the intake. Depends on how bad off it is. The directions say to pull it off it is exceedingly dirty. I just don't know what the cutoff for that would be. With that being said, if you are wanting to remove the intake, there is an updated design that fixes the PCV issue that you could just replace it with. The oil in the intercooler is probably coming from the secondary check valve that attaches from the hard line to the turbo.
There are several people that make PCV kits. I just elected to go with this one. If there were no benefit to a catch can on a vehicle, the can would stay forever empty. But even if there is any sort of liquid that accumulates in it, then there is a benefit since it is keeping that liquid from recirculating back into your engine. Whether cost/benefit ratio is to someone's liking is up to them to decide.
There are other vehicles that get that yellowish sludge in the oil and can often be seen under the oil fill cap. In really bad cases the oil pan can become caked in that sludge. Just think of it a a “ what if it happens safety net. Even I lifejacket isn’t needed if you don’t fall into the water.
There is a cure time of 12 hrs for the JB Weld. Excuse me for waiting for the epoxy to cure. I definitely should have put it together right away, started the car, sucked the plug through the intake, dropped a valve into a piston and grenaded the engine all so you could see that the car starts up. I'm such an inconsiderate TH-camr. If you don't like how TH-camrs show you how to install something on your car that you don't know how to do yourself (which is the entire reason you are looking up a video like this in the first place), you should head on over to Rumble. You can find me there doing the same stuff. I'm equally as inconsiderate, but the app logo is green.
That's good info to know for all the Europeans out there. I'm sure it may be used in more vehicles under the GM umbrella like Holdens, but I can't keep track of every car the engine is in the states let alone everywhere else. Our coolest cars for several years here were just rebadged Holdens. It is the GM way.
I just had the P0171 & P1101 codes come on back in August. I took it apart & cleaned everything. That lasted just over 5 months & I knew this was coming after researching those codes. I just bought that exact kit with the catch can. Awesome video guy. THANK YOU so much for showing everything! Just wish I did it when it was still warm out.🤦♂🥶😂I'm in Pittsburgh in December...
That's nothing that a bit of a nice bourbon couldn't take care of.
Thank you, you're the only guide that actually goes through everything when you're using the catch can. Not even Dave went through it like you did.
No problem. I try to make things as easy as possible for someone watching so they can get the job done and not have to worry about trying to track more information down.
@@greasyfingergarageHey I have two questions tho, how did u tighten the holder for the catch can because my hands cannot secure that damn bolt and r the hoses connected to the catch can supposed to be tightened or secured at all
@@bruhbro I used duct tape to hold the bolt in the bracket and the bracket to the car. Put the nut on bolt in the fender well and used a gear wrench to tighten it up. The hoses to the can are held on with hose clamps.
@@greasyfingergarage thank u so much man
Friend, I placed the oil trap wrong, the line that comes out of the gases goes directly to the oil collector, then it comes out without clean oil and there is the t connection to the PCV and turbo.
i had the failure happen, saved me thousand dollars literally.. been 20k miles and still going good. best fix ever, no need to replace the entire intake!
Not to mention that if you "fixed" it per the way a dealership would, it would just break again since they replace it with the same garbage parts.
Great video. I don’t have the time to watch the whole thing again but I did watch it about 3 months ago. I find that the hardest part about installing these kits is the different “ connectors “ and how to remove them. Push this pin out and press this tab on the back or squeeze both sides of this plastic ring and pull off etc. I hope I can find this again later when I have time because I have the V3.4 kit but couldn’t get two of the connectors off. Luckily I didn’t cut anything first. Dre Dan who sells this kit is really good. He has already answered a few questions I had. Don’t get customer service like that too often. My 2019 Buick Encore has the 1.4 litre turbo and everything looks the same except for where that hose between the intake PCV and the turbo inlet PCV connects. On my Encore the hose makes two 45degree or so bends ( 45 degree bend plastic elbows ) instead of it being 1 continuous hose. The turbo inlet connection is a bit easier as it’s halfway between th3 air box and the turbo so much easier to access. I’ll probably just need to find 4 more clamps ( I prefer the ones in the kit as opposed to the screw hose clamps as they loosen over time.
The only thing consistent with GM engineering is inconsistencies. As far as those clamps go, the larger hoses on the connectors are so frickin tight that you don't even need any clamps. So with that being said, old school worm gear clamps will work just fine.
Great explanation of how the pcv system works. My question is, why bother even rerouting the crankcase waste to the turbo at all? Any intake system should have clean air and clean fuel. Why introduce crankcase garbage? Why not plug the dump fittings entering the turbo and run that hose down under the car, or to the inlet of the catch can?
Emissions and the fact that it is a closed-loop system. Back when everything was carbureted, you would just stick a breather in the valve cover that would vent the pressure to atmosphere and call it done. In an effort to help lower emissions, the excess pressure was then directed back to the intake tract to help burn off any remaining hydrocarbons that has slipped past the rings into the crankcase and then be directed out through the cat.
When OBD1 came along, the PCV system was nothing more than a check valve in the valve cover with a hose that tied back into the intake at some point. That was pretty much it and the computer didn't monitor it at all. When everything switched over to OBD2, there were sensors added for everything and the computer would start live monitoring every system of the car.
The PCV system was then considered closed-loop and the airflow coming through that system was accounted for and programmed to be within a prescribed threshold limit to be functioning correctly. So being that it is a closed-loop, if you were to just dumb the crankcase pressure out without running it back through the system, the computer would read as your car having a massive leak and throw a myriad of codes. To do something as you are asking about would require reprogramming the computer to completely eliminate the PCV system.
Modern cars are a tradeoff between maximum efficiency and maximum performance. When it comes to the PCV system, they actually do help with emissions (even if a little dirty air makes it back around to be burned again) a bit as evidenced by the fact that they are still around. Unlike the power-robbing, weight-adding Smog/AIR pumps from the 70s and 80s that existed solely to pump fresh air into the exhaust to make emissions at the tailpipe read lower instead of actually doing anything.
@@greasyfingergarage . Thanks very much. I appreciate the detailed explanation.
The only reason I can think of is emissions clean air act.
@@greasyfingergarage I hate failing smogs over the useless AIR system being missing. Like you said, it just tricks the probe, doesn’t actually help emissions.
@@jakegenocide Most states don't even bother checking for them or doing those sorts of emissions tests on vintage vehicles anymore. And That is a good thing.
It’s very important when using a catch can system to drain out the can every 1000-2000 miles depending on how much oil it’s catching. The “ vapour “ ( mist ) can easily freeze in colder temperatures and cause Check Engine lights / engine codes, so cleaning / drawing the can out regularly is a good idea.
Yes the can definitely needs to be emptied out from time to time. The catch can in the kit has a dipstick you can check to see what the level is and if you need to empty out.
I am in the UK, just ordered the kit from these guys👍
Awesome. Hopefully the shipping wasn't too bad.
just did this and luckily I had already ordered a new PCV Hose for this car months earlier. Lucky I did because the valve in the bottom part.( near the turbo) eas completely gone. When you take that hose off if you can blow air from that bottom part then the valve is missing. On the new one when you look in that bottom part of that hose connector, you can clearly see the orange valve. You can actually suck through but you shouldn’t be able to blow through it.
I simply took the new PCV hose. I got and cut the ends of it off to use instead of the old one. Not expensive at all on eBay or wherever anyways, I think this is something important people should know. If you did it without replacing the bottom part of that hose then you are probably missing that valve also. Should be easily remedied and replaced.
I don't think the valve being in the hose you are replacing matters when you do this. Those are replaced by the external check valve in the kit. Just replacing the PCV hose itself can sometimes fix the issues since that is leaking pressure back. But they just end up blowing again at some point. The purpose of the kit is to replace the PCV system with something that doesn't suck.
i am wanting to do this to my 1.8. i have a catch can already was just wondering if you could give me the diameters of all the fittings and hoses i would need?
I have no idea what you would need on a 1.8. I bought a kit specifically for the 1.4 from Supercruzes/cruzekits. I believe they are 3/4" hoses in that kit.
@ i meant 1.4. thanks man
So I have a 2016 Chevy Cruz turbo engine and what my car is doing is it drove fine for about an hour and a half all the way to LA as soon as I got off the freeway came to a stop at the light and when I went to go it let me go, but then it acted as if my brakes were being applied kind of heavily, but it was not pushing my brake pedal down so then I would go to accelerate And then it would start accelerating and then do it again then you could push the gas through it doing its little break or slip or whatever and it just continues to do it, but it doesn’t do it in reverse and it doesn’t do it in first, but something is telling me that it is not the transmission even though everyone says it is something is telling me it’s not the transmission because I have not had any kind of issue with my transmission leading up to this but I have had a vacuum leak code pop and now it is popping a P0420 code only and it had popped a P01011 amongst a couple other codes having to do with pretty much a leak problem and I knew I had a massive leak, but I wasn’t able to specify where but help does anyone know what the fuck is going on cause I’m stumped everyone wants to tell me it’s the transmission but something tells me inside because I have some. What a good idea and how to work on cars and how cars function and I am so stumped specially because I replace the pressure map sensor and crankshaft sensor. I have not done the maf sensor but I’m gonna do that next, but something is telling me. It is the brakes because when I am driving, it sounds as if the brakes are applied somewhere like a dragging sound almost….HELP PLEASE N THANKS U I cannot get over a few miles an hour without it doing this
my intake manifold is new with check valve and i still have those silly codes,,p0106 and 1101
Check the diaphragm in the valve cover to see if it is blown by pressing your finger over the hole while it is running to see if it is making any sort of whistling sound. If that is good, check the PCV hose that runs from the intake down to the turbo. They are super brittle plastic that cracks over time and can cause a leak. The connection at the turbo is a quasi check valve that you should not be able to blow air back through. If you can, replace that hose. There is also a chance that the small little plastic gasket went missing from the connection of that hose to the intake that can cause a leak.
I have a 2014 Chevy Sonic with a non-turbo 1.8L engine. I am not a mechanic but stumbled upon your video. My question is that I think my Sonic has this problem too but I don't see a kit for it. The problem is that after driving for 10 minutes, it starts running rough and there is squealing around the cranskshaft area. I cant remeber the service engine code but it was something about running too lean. I also noticed my dipstick had some suction on it when I pulled it out. I also am afraid to drive it because when I had it in park and tapped the gas pedal the engine revved up by itself to around 3000 rpm then slowly came back down. Does this sound like the same problem you have with the 1.4L engines? I also like to mention I only have 62,000 miles on it. Any advice would be appreciated.
The PCV issue is a predominately 1.4L turbo engine issue. The 1.8L are generally less prone to issues. With that being said, it doesn't mean that you may have a PCV problem. Without knowing what the code is exactly, it could be a multitude of things. If it is running lean, that means its getting too much air. That could be happening anywhere in the intake system, but usually after the MAF. You may have a loose hose. You may have a cracked hose. You may have a dirty sensor. You may have just changed your air filter and not closed the box correctly. I would recommend searching your specific problem for that specific engine and see what you can find. As far as the squeaking around the crank and the dipstick noise, I would guess that your crank seal has blown out and needs a replacement.
Thanks for the feedback. I really want to do this kit and fix problem ahead before it causes problems. Everything looks straight forward except putting the epoxy with adhesive and cap. I really get confused and wouldn't know what I would be looking for. Does the kit come with instructions on how to take off original and cap it off with new kit? Thanks again
I thought I did a fairly decent job explaining it. At 9:50 in the video I take a pic and just poke at the orange nipple in the intake until it breaks up and I can push the pic through the hole without resistance. I then use a shop vac to suck all the pieces up in there. Anything that is on the other side of the wall where the rest of the PCV is will just get burned up in the engine. (This happens all the time on their own when they fail). At 26:00 I go through the process of putting the plug in. You can also look up the install video made by the PCV fix kit guy himself if you want some more info as well.
How do you clean the area around the orange button. Mine is pretty dirty, I can only see it with camera.
I used the wire brush drill attachment that came with the kit and some qtips with alcohol.
The best way to that,is to take out manifold
I've replaced the valve cover, intake and throttle body a couple of weeks ago. I have everything needed to do this setup except for the clip that you epoxy for the pcv inside the intake. Do you have to do this process since I've put a new intake on? If so do you have a part number just for that small clip or where to buy?
Since you already replaced the intake, you do not need to do this. The intake will have a new PCV diaphragm in it that will work, for a given time. How long it lasts is yet to be determined. I would just run it the way it is now until it starts throwing any of the codes that can be caused by the PCV issue (it will fall eventually since the design is still the same).
As far as that little insertable button clip thing that comes in it, it just comes with the kit. No idea what the name of it would be or if there were some sort of part number. I would imagine it was chosen because it fits in the tube while the intake is still in the car. You could reach out to the cruzekits guy and ask him. Maybe he can just send you one.
When you had the new intake out before you installed it, you could have popped out that diaphragm and ran a screw into the hole and epoxied the rest of the small ones shut.
I would just run it like it is for now until the issues arise. Just understand that they will happen again at some point.
The new intake will eventually do the same thing as the old one. The “ plug “ from this kit replaces and fixes that inadequate and flimsy rubber??? nipple thing.
I have a catch can for my 2000 Toyota with 210K. I can see the oil mist from the PCV hose in the headlights. I don’t want it to turn into carbon buildup.
9:21 plz i need buy this plastic . i lost what is the reference. code
I don't know what the name of that piece is or if it is available individually. I looked up exploded diagram views of the PCV system and it shows everything in that hose to be one unit. You may have to call the parts department of a dealership and ask them to see if their system shows it. If not, you would have to get the entire hose and cut the connector out of that. Maybe you have gotten lucky though and the piece isn't missing but is actually stuck up inside the elbow. If it is extra dirty, it could be there without you being able to see it.
Can you use a check valve and catch can to atmosphere? For off road use
Potentially if you can plug the connection on the turbo. But if you were to run a catch can, might as well just finish the loop.
I didn’t notice you saying PVC instead of PCV. I got beer in my ear 👂!
I put the kit without knowing about the oil catch can. My car is running very smooth. However, is it possible to add the catch can later on?
Yep. You just select only the catch can portion from super cruzes and then redo your routing.
@@greasyfingergarage thanks a lot man
@@TommyCooper-sm8xf No problem
Quick question could you run a pcv valve out of the valve cover to the intake manifold and T a line to the turbo
The PCV out of the valve cover to the intake is how the system used to work on OBD1 cars. I do not know if doing that exact layout would work on a forced induction system. You would also need to modify the valve cover for a tie-in in some way. So you would have to pull the cover off to drill and tap something into it without getting plastic in the head. You also won't be able to tie directly into the current plastic line that runs from the intake to the turbo. It will just disintegrate on you. ZZperformace offers a kit that runs out of a new oil fill cap to the turbo, then new lines to a spacer that goes between the intake and the head.
So a long answer to your quick question. But I truly don't know if that layout would work. My assumption would be no and you would still be throwing codes.
@greasyfingergarage just something I thought about watching your video it can't be that complicated
@@levialston518 The biggest issue is making a solution that works without tripping any of the obnoxious and unneeded sensors so the car stops throwing codes. More computer controls means more things that can cause problems with said controls.
Can you tell me what was the mileage on the Cruze when you did this job? I have a 2014 Chevy Cruze Lt with turbo and mileage is at 86 thousand. Thanks for the video any feedback appreciated
I'm a bit over 120k. It can be done at any mileage since the problems pop up fairly early from the terrible design of the PCV system.
In California tampering with hose emissions automatic smog check failure
How is vacuum controlled on pvc just find out that deleting vacuum stops the engine sucking fresh air thru the breather 1.6 turbo gtc
Vacuum is made in an engine by the piston being pulled down in the cylinder and the intake valve being open. Think of drinking through a straw. The amount of vacuum that is made is determined by a bunch of factors relating to cam position, LSA, valve overlap, etc. The older PCVs systems would just dump the excess pressure to the atmosphere. They were changed to reroute the crankcase pressure back through the intake to try and burn off anything that didn't get burned off the first go around. So not only does the intake stroke process suck in fresh air, it is also using that vacuum to suck in the excess crankcase pressure. It is a combination of having the correct amount of vacuum, the correct amount of crankcase pressure, the correct valve in between those two and a design that doesn't suck at its job.
My Chevy Cruze just makes a clicking noise when starting
My negative battery cable is brand new and my battery is good
What do you think it is?
Are you positive your battery is good? Clicking when trying to start is usually a dead giveaway of a junk battery. Keep in mind that even if you check the voltage of the battery it can show up having a full 12volts when it has a dead cell inside. Make sure the battery is fully charged and take it to get a load test at any auto parts store. Another sign its the battery is if you are able to start the car by jumping it.
Clicking could also be the starter solenoid I think? Key or push button start? Try turning the key just until the on position and right back again two or three times. Not dur3 how you would do that width pudgy button start.
I’ve replaced my valve cover and all and my Chevy Cruze idle is kinda funny when I come to a stop the car still wants to move like it will jump any suggestions??
Sounds like you are describing the engine surging. That is usually caused by air getting sucked in someplace other than just the intake. If you have any codes, see what they are saying. I don't know what all you took off to change the valve cover but you may have not put everything back on exactly correct. My default assumption though would be that it is related to the PCV in general. You can pull the hose off the intake and look in to see if you see the nipple in the intake. Even if it is there it doesn't mean that it is functioning correctly though. I would recommend doing at least the PCV fix kit. You don't need to do the catch can unless you want to do it as well.
Purge valve 39 bucks throws a body code
I have a 2013 base model 1.8 L non-turbo.. just change the coils and spark plugs and valve cover gasket because it was leaking causing skipping while I had the valve cover off I cleaned it PCV valve openings with the valve cover off mates for everything was drained wiped cleaned reinstalled valve cover new gaskets Etc stock car up no more skipping so the coil pack and spark plugs and Etc take care of that but somehow I ruined my PCV valve hissing and making noises out of the valve cover of course similar car but different engine on Turbo instead of buying a new valve cover with the new PCV valve set up in the cover can I just disconnect what's there and put a catch can where am I going to need that vacuum leak fixed
I have no experience with the 1.8, so I am probably not the best person to answer this question. I do believe the PCVs are far better in the 1.8 than the 1.4 and can be replaced independently since they aren't a part of the intake like the 1.4. I also do not know if the 1.8 is overpressurized like the 1.4 due to the turbo and terrible PCV design. If you were wanting to add a catch can, I would imagine that it could be put inline of wherever the PCV hose runs, as long as it isn't affecting the flow around the EVAP system. You will still need to have some sort of PCV valve in the loop though. Your best bet would be to look and see if Supercruzes or ZZP offers a catch can kit for the 1.8 and see how it works. You could also probably ask them the question directly. They would be more knowledgeable about it than I.
Is it the same for the 2009 1.8 ltr
I do not know for sure. I believe the PCV issues were mostly confined to the 1.4 turbo engines.
Question, what if I already have the pcv fix, how do I only get the catch can?
You can get that from Supercruzes. It is the first option from the dropdown for the PCV fix kits. It comes with the can, bracket and hose kit to integrate it into the kit you already have. You can always call them up to be sure though.
I put a upgraded doorman intake on 200,000 ago runs strong 44 mpg no leaks took 25 minutes was only 95.00 bucks
I've heard mixed things about those. As long as its working for you that's what matters.
The ZZP one is supposed to be even more efficient,do you know if that’s legit?
What do you mean by more efficient? I personally have zero experience with the ZZP kit so I can't speak for much that goes into it. I do believe that their kit is only offered with the catch can and the price is the same as doing the combo kit that I did. I think they both use the same catch can. The ZZP kit is definitely more "professional" looking with the mounting brackets and molded hoses. I do believe that you have to pull the intake off for the ZZP kit to add some sort of spacer (don't quote me on that). If that is the case though, you could just go with the updated GM intake that supposedly fixes the PCV issue (I have no experience with that intake either). In the end, it is multiple options that address the issue in different ways. I just chose to go this route, and it is the only thing I can speak from experience on.
Sorry if I missed it in the video but is the catch can really needed? What benefit does it add? I was going to do just the pcv fix kit.
While every car runs, it has water vapor, air and oil mixing together, forming a funky orangish sludge. How much is produced depends on a lot of different factors. The catch can separates that sludge from the air being fed back into the intake to be reburned. Does a car need a catch can to run? No. I can't think of a single car that comes with one from the factory (mostly because it would just be something else that the owner would have to keep track of). They definitely have their benefits though. You just have to decide if the added cost of a catch can is worth it for doing the fix. But you can do just the fix kit and it will take care of the PCV issues.
@@greasyfingergarage Good to know thank you
I just did this to my 1.4T junk and it is still making way to much crankcase pressure. Why!?!?!?? Why is that.
Piss poor engineering from the get-go. That's why they have all the problems. As far as why your car still has too much pressure, who knows. Did you clean out the PCV port enough when you did the install? If you did this exact kit, is the check valve aligned in the correct direction? I'm also 100% convinced that these cars throw codes for problems that don't actually exist. Its pretty obnoxious.
Two things to check. Take that PCV fitting off of where you put in the plug. Maybe the plug and JB Weld didn’t completely cover the centre hole where the orange nipple was or it wasn’t cleaned and dried enough before you installed it. Also after installing the plug did you leave the hole unplugged for at least 15 hours before reattaching the fitting over the hole? If you put everything together and start the car up right away the JB Weld could be blown out of the holes. One other thing it might be is that the Purge Valve in the back may have already been faulty which will throw those codes too. Get a new purge valve and redo that part of the kit. Lastly, did you remove the intake “ beauty cover “ and check that diaphragm on the valve cover? If it makes a “ clicking sound “ with the engine idling or if a piece of Kleenex gets sucked or pushed away from that diaphragm then that part may have already been destroyed.
Why would your Chek engin light comes on in my cruze?
I am assuming you are asking why your car would throw a check engine light. There are tons of different reasons that your car could have one. If the light is on, you need to get the codes scanned. Then you can start the process of narrowing down what it is causing it to throw the light.
I got Holden Trax
Just looked up a pic. Seems like it is the equivalent of a Sonic.
I have a question
Which is?
That was the question 😂
I have a coffee can 😂
Isn't this a class action lawsuit? Chevy knows this is a problem there just making money off all the labor and parts after the nipple blows
No clue. I do know that there were clearly enough issues that GM would start covering the valve cover fixes and refund stuff that was already done, to an extent. They wouldn't refund the money for the crank seal failing due to it. Or the oil pan gasket getting blown out.
If it is a class action lawsuit, it means nothing. The only people that benefit from those are the lawyers. They get 98% of the money and everyone else comes away with like $2.37.
q desmadre eso
Not sure what you are saying. Hopefully good things.
@@greasyfingergarageHe said it's a complicated job 😂Friend, do you think it's a good idea Remove the intake manifold and remove the oil and carbon. My throttle body and intercooler hoses have some oil on them or do I just clean the diaphragm holes and install the kit
Gracias amigo
@@2PacMejia Ah. Finaly an answer to the mystery. I can't say whether or not it is a good idea to remove the intake. Depends on how bad off it is. The directions say to pull it off it is exceedingly dirty. I just don't know what the cutoff for that would be. With that being said, if you are wanting to remove the intake, there is an updated design that fixes the PCV issue that you could just replace it with. The oil in the intercooler is probably coming from the secondary check valve that attaches from the hard line to the turbo.
PVC? You must be a plumber?
I'm a plumber in that I lay the pipe. Haha. Ha. h.... I'll see myself out.
@@greasyfingergarage 👍I’ll stick with the ABS pipe. Plumbing is alphabet soup
The guy who makes the pcv kits has found that there’s no benefit to a catch can on the gen 1 Cruzes.
There are several people that make PCV kits. I just elected to go with this one. If there were no benefit to a catch can on a vehicle, the can would stay forever empty. But even if there is any sort of liquid that accumulates in it, then there is a benefit since it is keeping that liquid from recirculating back into your engine. Whether cost/benefit ratio is to someone's liking is up to them to decide.
There are other vehicles that get that yellowish sludge in the oil and can often be seen under the oil fill cap. In really bad cases the oil pan can become caked in that sludge. Just think of it a a “ what if it happens safety net. Even I lifejacket isn’t needed if you don’t fall into the water.
An when it burn off in the cylinder it causes detonation an knock
I would take the safety measure of what if with a catch can than not having anything
Don’t crank the car up to test. None of the TH-camrs ever do that 🙄😒😒
There is a cure time of 12 hrs for the JB Weld. Excuse me for waiting for the epoxy to cure. I definitely should have put it together right away, started the car, sucked the plug through the intake, dropped a valve into a piston and grenaded the engine all so you could see that the car starts up. I'm such an inconsiderate TH-camr. If you don't like how TH-camrs show you how to install something on your car that you don't know how to do yourself (which is the entire reason you are looking up a video like this in the first place), you should head on over to Rumble. You can find me there doing the same stuff. I'm equally as inconsiderate, but the app logo is green.
So sorry guy.
I just can't get past spending $270 on a item that i have to use super glue on.
Do the painties come with it ? ...@ 9:38 😆😆😆
Then don't do it. I don't care.
What crazy fool would spend $270 on cheap hardware? 😂
What crazy fool would choose to live in California?
You could had cut this into a 10 min video and it would be a lot more informative and helpful
I'll be sure to reach out for approval next time.
Used in vauxhall astra in uk too
That's good info to know for all the Europeans out there. I'm sure it may be used in more vehicles under the GM umbrella like Holdens, but I can't keep track of every car the engine is in the states let alone everywhere else. Our coolest cars for several years here were just rebadged Holdens. It is the GM way.
Shared video on astra j forum for u thanks for video
@@grimreaperbadboy Well I certainly appreciate that.