Thank you so much. My friend was doing mine and he said it had to go to the shop cuz he was going from the bottom. I appreciate you bunches!! Saved me big bucks. He said i had to take it to the Honda dealership. I did it myself, took WAY more than an hour but I'm on the road again!!!
It's doable from the bottom but unless you have a lift it's much easier to do it from the top. Also you better pray that you don't have any seized or over torqued bolts if you try to get to it from the bottom. My 17 mm bottom bolt took a lot of PB blaster, MAPP torch, and torque bar to get loose. There's no way in hell I could have done that from the bottom. just goes to show that sometimes fewer steps =/= easier or quicker job.
Torque specs: - Starter Motor top long bolt (1): 33 lbf·ft - Starter Motor bottom short bolt (1): 47 lbf·ft - Throttle Body bolts (4): 16 lbf·ft - Intake Manifold nuts (2) and bolts (3): 16 lbf·ft thanks for the great video.
Thanks man, back then my father didnt have torque wrenches. He always told me "Get it finger tight, then wrench tight, then lightly apply a more tight push....and theres your torque" his advice has helped me over 10 years now 🤣🤣🤣
Nicely done. Overall, the information contained here was invaluable. I approached the project with confidence and saved at least $350 (after deducting $300 for new tools).I hadn't done this kind for work in 60 years. The auto shop quoted me $650 to replace the starter in my 2002 CRV L-4. The dealer quoted $1,600. I just today began the process of dismantling, and this video has been invaluable, except for not showing the actual removal of the two starter mounting bolts. I just finished installing the (rebuilt) starter, and it's working fine. First, I want to emphasize is the extreme difficulty in removing (and re-installing) the two large mounting bolts holding the starter in place. Mine were torqued down to the max, and Loctite (or the equivalent) had been used. I had to run to O'Reilly's and buy a 2-ft 1/2"-drive breaker bar to u freeze these two bolts, and even after breaking them loose, it was tough getting them out with a 12"-drive ratchet. It was the same with replacing them. There wasn't a 1/8-inch to spare, so I did the best I could with just the ratchet. I would not recommend replacing a starter without a 2-ft long 1/2"-drive ratcheting breaker bar. I also highly recommend loosening the radiator supports for better access and using heavy-duty bungie cords to hold restrain the right-hand wiring harness and also on the left side to restrain the manifold, which I had left attached to the vacuum hose.
Tips for 2005 Honda CRV - Remove the upper radiator hose and the rest of the intake, to allow for enough room to get the intake out - For the 2 small coolant hoses which are bottom, right, remove both of them, both sides. If you only disconnect one side, they will be taking up space that you need to get the intake in and out. - Check and check again that all connectors and hoses have been removed. These are all mentioned in the video, but I still missed at least 3. I was in there to replace my knock sensor (btw, torque is 23 ft-lbs). I also replaced upper/lower radiator hoses, while I was in there. Thanks for the video, very helpful!
Thanks for the video! Did this job today, and for those who are asking about getting the intake out, you have to work it a bit, but have some patience, it will come out to the right and at an angle...
Followed this for my 05 CRV, great walk through THANKS! ~ A NOTE of caution on reassembly. Watch your wires. I didn't notice but inadvertently knocked the spade connector starter wire loose during reinstall of manifold. Didn't realize it until I had everything reassembled & CRV wouldn't crank. I crawled under with a light & saw starter spade wire dangling. Had to take the bottom protective plastic loose & fight from below to get the wire back on. Finally did it & it fired right up. Even with set back took
I have an ‘04 model and there were a few differences, but not much. The main thing is that the manifold doesn’t come all the way out, but I got it off to the side enough that i could reach the starter. No biggie. Didn’t replace the gasket because it wasn’t cracked or anything... That 17mm was a pain! Had to use a breaker bar to get it loosened up. Thank you so much for sharing!
My mom has a CRV that recently took a dump in a parking lot at a store. Me, not wanting to work on it when the store was open, decided to wait to fix it until the store closed. They closed at 6 last night, so I got there at about 7. I finally left at about 12:30, but darn it we got her fixed. Thank you for the information in the video. What always gets me is either a bolt that won’t budge, or some dumb clip or something. When you work on a car and you think it will take an hour or two, plan out an extra couple hours just in case, because you might get unlucky like me. The extra trips to the house for stuff I needed, definitely didn’t help me get done any earlier
I just completed this exact same job and it was super easy after watching your video. Thank you so much! I did find that you do not need to cut the green tie. You can fairly easily reach it from the under the car and just push the connector off. I did end up loosening the radiator support just to make it easier to remove the intake manifold. Removing the radiator support was really no big deal and made it MUCH easier. I did not see any reason to get a new gasket (o rings). THANK YOU AGAIN!
04 crv starter replaced thanks to this video. Good straightforward help. Thanks a ton. Saved my job. Who needs a 5.7 liter engine. No bike required. Just a phone right ? Seriously, thanks man.
I just finished the starter installation for my crv FOLLOWING your excellent instructional video which was as the commenter said was right on point. Just wanted to say thanks man! You are worth paying attention to, great vid, keep me coming bud
the way he is showing you to replace the starter is not called for you can replace the starter down belong in half the time and one third the cost he don't know what he is doing total time replacing the starter down below is 1 1/2 hours tops.
Much thanks to Jerry for an excellent video! Replaced the starter in our 04 CRV EX today. Took me the entire day, but I took my time - considering the temp outside was 98 degrees. Disconnected and removed the battery first. Removed the upper air intake duct next, unplugging the sensor and air flow tube as per Jerry's video. Disconnected all of the sensors from the throttle body intake, along with the various small hoses that are connected to it. Lost a lot of coolant from those two disconnected hoses underneath the throttle body intake. Refilled on reassembly. Labeled each connector and hose with it's corresponding connection. I had to do that because I knew I'd forget. Removed the upper radiator hose from the engine and kept it tilted upward to avoid coolant loss. Note: When reconnecting this hose to the engine, there is a small protruding nodule on the top of the nozzle where this upper radiator hose connects to the engine. Be careful not to push the upper radiator hose on too far as it will cover the nodule and create a coolant leakage - even with the clamp in place. Next, I removed the throttle body intake from the intake manifold (4 bolts). There are multiple connectors and hoses connected to the throttle body intake, top and bottom. On the 04 EX, there are two throttle cables that loop around and connect to the throttle body intake. I did not disturb these because I didn't want the hassle of adjusting the cables on reinstall. There is a lower air duct that runs from under the very front rail of the engine compartment and connects to another air duct that runs up into the bottom of the air filter assembly. If you remove this lower air duct (two bolts on the front rail and pull apart from adjoining air duct), you will create more space to work. I placed the disconnected throttle body intake with throttle cables attached and untouched over where the battery was, so as to afford myself room to remove the intake manifold. Disconnected the sensor connectors and hoses from the intake manifold, as per Jerry's video. Disconnected and removed the fuel injector power harness from just above the intake manifold, and turned it to the side. The intake manifold came off without a hitch. Just be careful because there are connections attached to the underside of it. Jerry covers them in his video. No gaskets or O-rings on mine. I covered both the intake openings on the manifold and the engine with Press N Seal food wrap, so as to not allow foreign matter or sweat to enter the engine. Once the intake manifold was out of the car, the starter was right there! Had to use a breaker bar for the 17mm and 14mm mounting bolts. It only took about 30 minutes total to remove the bad starter and replace it. The rest was removal and reassembly time, trying to remove hoses from connectors that have been there for 225,000 miles.. Just remember to double check your connectors and hoses and replace any lost coolant when putting it all back together, and you should be good to go! Note: If you experience a fluctuating idle when you start the vehicle, you probably missed a connector somewhere.
Thanks for writing all of that out! Its important for people to get more than one perspective. I'm glad you got it all fixed! If you lost a lot of coolant, keep an eye on your temp gauge for the next few weeks to make sure you dont have any bubbles in the lines. You should be ok though.
Legend, just finished my wife’s car. The pipe in the middle of the manifold is on the right side on our car and I had to remove the pipe from the top of the radiator to get enough room to get the manifold out. Your vid was very helpful all these years later. Thank you.
Mahalo for showing me how easy it is to replace my CRV starter. I watched the video above yours and the guy had pulled all kinds of extra parts off. He puller off the radiator strut and so many other items. And he was hard to understand. Your video was so much easier to follow and understand. GREAT JOB!!!
Jerry, Thank you for sharing this video. I am a mechanic hobbyist and I once in a while work on other people's cars to earn a few dollars on the side to help pay the bills (& beer). Anyway, this morning I got a call from a lady who wants me to replace the starter in her Honda CRV. When I found out that I have to replace the intake manifold to reach the starter, I had to turn down the job and referred her to a shop that I know that is honest. After watching your video, I felt that I should have accepted the job. It will take me about 3.5 hours (realistically) to complete the job but I would have earned a little bit today. Anyways, the next time I get a starter replacement job for a Honda CRV, I will definitely take it. Thank you again for sharing this repair video.
Thank you for watching! I myself watched a few honda CRV starter replacement videos before attempting my repair, and none of them did a very good job of explaining what was going on w/ the intake manifold. So hopefully my video helps more people out. Thanks for watching!
Great video - thank you. It was reassuring to see removing the manifold as an alternative method does not require too much disassembly. In addition to the great advice in this video I also recommend checking out Honda's Service manual section 9-2 on Intake Manifold Removal and Installation section. I went with something in between: 1. I removed the air box cover - more room for my hands to move 2. I left the IMT solenoid valve (minute 2:50) attached with its tubes to the valve position sensor and instead unscrewed the little phillips head screw from the back to release its bracket - fewer tubes to worry about 3. After the manifold was loose, I followed the advice to move towards the battery side and slowly tilt it up one port at a time. However, I laid up a slippery but tough rag on top of the upper radiator hose and all the wires I had pushed away from the front of the car - this helped protect the radiator hose as I was pushing down hard on it while trying to clear the (2x) tabs at the bottom of the manifold 4. I replaced the intake O-rings My car is '05 and has over 150k miles. While I was there I also replaced the alternator (extra 20min) and the PCV valve. Thanks again.
I FIXED IT. I FIXED IT IT STARTED I FIXED IT! YOU ARE THE BEST!!!!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! I've never once done anything but change tires or oil but with your video I fixed my starter and by all accounts a stupidly placed one! I'll be riding this high all week! IM THE MASTER OF THE UNIVERSE I CAN DO ANYTHING! 😂 ok I'll stop. Seriously though, this feels amazing!
YOU ARE A GODDESS! I have been trying to psych myself up for a week for this job and I came across your comment and you help me recall who I AM. Thank YOU truly!
Very helpful video. Thank you! The hoses that you point out that leak at 3:25 are leaking coolant. Tip for others is to place a pan under the area since you don't want coolant leaking everywhere. Also, it was hard to get them to stop leaking. Might want to have some coolant available to top off after everything is put back together. To get the manifold out I also had to remove the large coolant hose. I have an '04 CR-V and it was slightly different than your model but this still worked.
I just changed my thermostat yesterday from underneath and it was a pain, today I cleaned my throttle body assembly. Doing it your way would have been way easier. If my starter goes this will be the way I go. I already have a new alternator and A/C compressor on the shelf waiting. Thanks, good knowledge to have.
I disconnected the engine side of the top radiator hose also for more room. Your video was the easiest. The others took off way more than they had to. None of the videos addressed the cruise control. I must live in the only place where every car i work on has cruise, but it was no big deal. Also the reason that Honda puts that long bolt on the top of the starter on various models is so you can take the starter out from the bottom. But I decided to try it this way this time and it was easier and took me less time. THANKS!
Hey man - truly appreciate the overview - my son and I knocked it out in a couple hours - I would add to crimp down on the connector from the ignition to keep it from coming loose - thanks again!!!
I've worked on cars my whole life, and I've changed many a starter by working from underneath. I was a little intimidated by the idea of removing the intake manifold though to do it this way. I was picturing gaskets that would have to be replaced etc. That turned out to be a non-issue. Having successfully completed the replacement, it was relatively easy, and I agree it is far preferable to crawling underneath. There are two challenges that I would say get glossed over in this video: 1- That cable tie that he snips to detach the harness that runs underneath was a real bear to cut. It is deep down, and crowded and I had a difficult time getting my hand down there with cutters. 2- The video shows him detaching the manifold, then suddenly it is on his work bench. That ignored what I found was the hardest part of this job, actually lifting the manifold out. It is an incredibly tight fit, and it took a lot of trial and error and angling to find a route out past the harnesses, hoses and body of the car. There is an air intake hose that I also removed to give me some more room. Getting it back in was an equal challenge. Satisfied in the end though that this was way easier than trying to get the starter out from underneath.
I just finished putting in a starter on my 2003 CRV. The only thing needed was the starter, a new intake gasket, new plastic tabs for reattaching the plastic cowling covering the radiator/cross member (that the hood latch is attached too), regular screw driver, a philips screwdriver, a needle nose pliers, a metric socket set and a jack handle to loosen the bolts on the starter. The starter was $189 at Autozone, with another $50 off for when you return the junk starter. It took two of us about two hours. To make room, we 1: took out the battery and filter-to-intake hose, 2: took the bolts out of the hood latch and set the hood latch in the battery area (we did not disconnect the cables to the latch) for extra room, 3: We pulled the cross member above the radiator (that the hood latch is attached too) forward a couple inches. To do this we removed the plastic cowling covering the cross member - plan on punching out the plastic tabs that hold it on and replace them with new ones when you reinstall it (buy them at Autozone). We then took the bolts out of the cross member, disconnected the air intake attached to the cross member, and then pulled the cross member forward a couple inches to make room. In my 2003 we HAD to move that cross member or the air intake manifold would not come out. With the cross member moved, the manifold came out easy. My carb is mechanical so we took it off the intake (remove four bolts) without removing any electrical connections or hoses and pushed it aside (it helps to have someone hold it off to the side when actually removing the manifold itself). When we went to take out the manifold bolts they were rusted on the studs and the studs came out like one long bolt. I don't think the studs would have been in the way if they did not come out. Like others in the comments said, we needed a jack handle to extend the socket wrench to get the bolts loose on the starter. The whole operation was a matter of screws, nuts bolts and a couple vacuum hose attachment sites - no fluids leaking or needing replacing.
Great tutorial. I noticed that when ai did it today, you can avoid disconnecting 2/3 of the cables and hoses if you separate the throttle body from the manifold. You can then flip the manifold over and lay it on the upper part of the engine without disconnecting that completely. Of course I figured that out after completion. Thanks for a great video.
Except those bolts are pretty much heat welded in. I'd say they are at 60 lbs at least. Best to just loosen the radiator support bar I think. Idk I'll update tomorrow when I finish. But I noticed he didn't include the part where it actually came out haha
Thank you JerryRig! Your video is so clear, easy to follow and simple. I followed it to a T, and replaced the starter today no problem. Wouldn't be on my way worry-free without your video!
Hi Jerry. Your video was a great help. I just did this on my 2005 CRV and I am not sure I would have tried it without your guidance. Only minor difference for me was the Y hose you had on the left side of your manifold. Mine was a single tube. Also, I ended up taking off the plastic air intake that goes from the grill to the airbox, and taking off the long plastic cover over the radiator. Just to give more room. I did not take the manifold all the way out. I was able to swap starter by moving manifold to the far right near battery tray. Some of the hoses were tricky to back off and I too had to use a breaker bar to remove the 17mm bolt on the starter. Thank you very much for posting this how-to.
This video was a big help. I had a heck of a time getting the hoses off of the manifold (big hands made it tough) and it took me a while to actually remove the manifold once everything was disconnected but eventually it came out. The bolts on the starter were so tight that there is NO WAY I could have removed it from underneath. I had to slip a pipe over my ratchet to loosen the bolts, but once I got to that point, it was as easy as playing with Legos. The engine light came on after I had everything replaced, but it turns out that I didn't slip one of the plugs all the way on. I found it and locked it in place. After an engine reset (unplug the battery for 20 sec) everything was great. Thanks again for the video.
Kurtis, was there a particular way to remove the manifold? The instructions are great except there's no explanation in how to pull the manifold. Mine is appears to be stuck with the bar located in front of the radiator..
Darwin Benitez Nice! Its a fun project. Especially once youve seen it done one time before. Figuring it out without visuals is rough. Thanks for watching!
Just finished doing another one of these so more tips.... remove the bolts from the front cross member (directly behind radiator) and pull that cross member forwards as far as you can. Also remove the two studs in the middle after you get intake manifold pulled forward. You should now be able to flip intake manifold over to the right and just leave it standing in a vertical position. Also , the little green thing he clipped off can be removed by pulling. Don't forget to use new "O" rings, and be sure they are seated properly on inside of manifold (pull old ones out first, duh). Number all connectors with tags. This time I did not take out the air box, but I did remove the battery and lower breather duct that goes to bottom of air box. This time it only took me a 3 hours but I had two helpers handing me tools. I also had to use the handle of a floor jack on my BIG 17mm socket as a breaker bar on the big starter bolt, and had to use it on the a wrench on the other starter bolt. Look carefully at the little spade connector that goes on the new starter, some are vertical tabs and some have horizontal tabs , keep that in mind when you push spade on tab. ps - Honda , this is one stupid design for a starter placement.
This was all good advice, wish I saw this before trying the first time. Came back and read this once I realized that manifold just doesn't come out. Took an extra hour to get it out of the way enough to reach under it. I also needed a 10 foot pipe on the end of my biggest socket to break the starter free. Lastly, something pulled the wire harness hard enough to unplug the starter. It was barely reachable from underneath (unsafely with a floor jack?), so I didn't have to take it all apart again.
Best advice above from JPritch 2: Read it, then go back and read it again. Remove the two studs after pulling the manifold forward. Remove the three 10 mm. bolts to the hood latch. Replace manifold o-rings. (I damaged mine on the second go around removal since the solenoid wire fell off). PLUG THE COOLANT LINES you remove from the bottom of the throttle body intake (use a small rubber tool or a 1/4" bit) next to the intake manifold. If the coolant spills make sure you have a spare gallon of Type 2 Honda to replace (or dump and refill if it's been a few years - get two gallons). DOUBLE CHECK (underneath if you have to) that the spade plug to the solenoid hasn't gotten knocked out of place by the manifold going back into position. You might want to tighten the female plug a little bit to make sure it stays on. I learned the hard way. The brushes can be replaced. The assembly from Honda is about $50 (Part number 31210RRAA52) plus the plunger set to repair the solenoid: another $18 (stealership or Amazon) or get a full set of brush assembly and plunger set for under $20 on fleabay. The quality isn't the same as OEM but it works. For how long is another question. Got 13.5 years before the starter wouldn't give another start. Fortunately this died in the driveway, not while driving cross country or even driving around town.
Thanks for the instructional video, I found it very helpful. The most difficult part for me was removing the intake manifold once you have it disconnected from everything. For that I ended up unbolting the front metal bracket above the grill (which the hood latch attaches to) without fully removing it, that gave me just enough wiggle room to slide it back a little and get the manifold out. I know it's possible to get the manifold out without doing that but I was struggling with it and unbolting that bracket was not at all difficult (just 4 10mm bolts once you take off the plastic cover on top). Also another tip. The hose and electrical connector on the bottom left side of the manifold are really hard to get to. It's a lot easier to remove them / or put them back in once the manifold is unbolted from the engine, that way you can slide the manifold back a little and you'll have a lot more room to reach those parts.
Just did the swap on a 2004 CR-V replacing the original starter with the REMY replacement version with external solenoid. I have the Haynes manual for this model, and it did say to remove the radiator support bar (the cross member). I didn't actually take it out, just pulled it to the front of the vehicle. If you take out the bolts holding that support down and the two little supports keeping you from pulling it towards the front of the car, you can pull the whole bar forward enough to get the manifold out with removing any studs. Note on removing radiator support cover to get to radiator support bar, you are going to break a bunch of those plastic plug in retainers as happens whenever you remove any plastic panels on the Honda. They are hard to find at parts stores, but can be had really cheap in bags of 25, 50 or 100 from Amazon. FYI, from the 2001-2004 Civic and CR-V Haynes manual, manifold bolt torque is 16 ft-lbs, starter motor bolt torques are ; 33 ft-lbs (small bolt), 47 ft-lbs (large bolt). Finally, I have one 10mm bolt left that had something to do with the radiator support (since it was in that pile). Car is back together, starts and runs fine. Fingers crossed.
I really appreciated this video - very helpful! The only thing I would add is that when taking the manifold out, you can't just pull it straight out. It needs to be twisted at an angle and then pulled out over by the radiator hose. Also, the top radiator hose should be disconnected at the radiator to give enough room to pull it out.
Much easier to follow than the videos that tell you to take your spare tire off the back and your windshield wipers off to get to the starter. Now if only mechanics follow this guide then the job won't require 4 hours of labor charges at a garage! Well done and thanks!
U the man jerry! Just done this,too easy.I had to remove the throttle body to remove intake mani as it is a tight squeeze but will slide out sideways.Took 1 1/2 hrs,easier than it looks.IT'S JUST NUTS AND BOLTS :)
Thanx Bro. Mine is a 2004 and has electrical running through a box on the drivers side of the intake that is bolted onto it. Rather than get involved with this I took off the top radiator hose and removed the vent intake, then just moved the intake out towards the drivers side and let it sit there while I worked the starter. Everything worked out great. Thanx for the video.
I just replaced the dying starter motor in my 2006 CR-V using this video as a guide. Overall it's a great video, but like others pointed out it doesn't show how to take the intake manifold out of the vehicle, which turns out is very difficult. I never was able to, but it seems that in order to do it you need to slide it towards where the battery sits. It appears that you need to remove the upper radiator hose to do that. I did manage to replace the starter while just having the intake manifold sitting off to the side, towards the battery area. Overall the process wasn't too difficult, but some hoses were really hard to get off (they likely haven't been taken off for the 15 years of the vehicle's life), and the bolts holding the starter in were VERY difficult to get out due to rust holding them in tight. Having the manifold partially in the way also made it difficult to get leverage. I disassembled the old starter and it appears that one of the 4 brushes was stuck and likely not making contact, which would effectively result in the motor having half its normal power. This would explain the difficult starts on cold mornings. With the new starter, and a recently replaced battery, my CR-V now starts like new.
I'm a Toyota guy, build rock crawlers, I'm sure I can pull and replace and probably rebuild the 22re in one day... I can pull one in about 20 minutes. Lol. But these things are a whole new ball of wax to me, and when I started to realize I had to pull the intake, I thought... It can't be too much worse than my 22 re. Lol. In a sense it's really not, as long as you know where everything is... And thanks to you I do! I literally just did this entire thing in a little over an hour. Haven't made sure it was the starter of yet but I'm pretty damn certain. Lol. I just wanted to thank you man, you really saved my ass! I'm on a huge crunch to make my second appointment having missed the first one because of this for my airbag replacement. thanks again, boss!
Hi - Thank you, thank you, thank you! Just finished installing my new starter and was so excited that it started right up! Only thing trouble I had was in order to get the intake manifold out I ended up taking the upper radiator hose and fresh air in take out. But it was no big deal! Thanks for the great instructions and visuals! Best part was the auto parts store miss quoted the starter price (gave me a quote for civic starter over the phone) and gave me the part for only $90!
Great instructional video, good tips and advice on what NOT to take off. I now have confidence to replace the starter in my wife's '06 CRV without having to do a bunch of extra work...
Great video! Replaced my starter in about 2.5 hours. I did some things a bit different that worked better for me but the principals in this video really helped. Thank you.
So I thought about trying to replace this myself and suprise my wife... This video showed me I would have been in over my haed... Thank you for showing how this was done and saving me a fight with my wife :-)
There's no reason to disconnect anything that's connected to the throttle body. Just unbolt it from the manifold and move it off to the side. Especially the coolant hoses, it just makes a mess for no reason then you have to bleed the system.
I found this to be not true. I tried just moving the throttle body off to the side, but there wasn't enough room to slide out the intake manifold when you do that. It was only once I fully removed the throttle body like this video showed that I was able to get the manifold out.
Subscribed to your channel for your phone videos. And just by chance we own the same car and I needed to change the starter. Appreciate the video. Everything was fairly straight forward. Toughest parts were getting the intake manifold out of the car after everything was unattached. Had to slide it towards the right where the empty battery space was and then tilt and lift up. Second was getting the 17mm bolt off the starter. Bent a 3/8 ratchet. Then used a short 3/8 breaker bar with an addition of pvc pipe. I'm sure if I had a 18-25 inch breaker bar it would of made it a lot easier. Took the old starter out and connected it to a battery to see if it worked. Watched videos on youtube to see how to do this. Even though it spun and the gears slid forward it didn't really spin fast . Took the starter to Autozone, they have a machine to test starter and alternators when they are out of the car. It had 3 red fails come up. Got a Duralast remanufactured one, they gave me 20% off, which was being offered on their website but usually they don't give that in store. I asked them to test the one I was buying, didn't want to get home install everything to find out it didn't work. They said no problem. They hooked it up and it passed. Got home installed the new one. Reinstalled everything else. Tried to start the car and it started right up. Total cost $191 including tax. And a couple hours of time.
Love the video. Probably the best video to take the starter out. So... I ran into a dilemma. After ordering the new starter, it came in a week and a half later. Now I have to put it back in. I'll have to look for follow up video.
Great video! Because my 2002 CR-V has throttle cables I had to unbolt and move the upper radiator support for clearance. Also, some of the hose clamps are the crimped style so I left them connected and just sat the intake manifold on top of the engine, out of the way. Thanks!
I completed the work in day and a half since I had to wait for the starter to come in the next day...was $120 for a rebuilt unit much cheaper than anything Kragen or Napa were offering.the job is difficult and you have to disconnect a lot of crap just to get the intake manifold in & out and its still an extremly tight fit, starter was pretty easy to remove.I asked one of the mechanic at a Honda dealer if the O rings had to replaced on manifold and he said no as long as they are in good shape.
My moms starter went out. Going to pick one up. Now just waiting on a few friends that do mechanical work to get it put in. I’m saving this video. Heck I might do it myself lol
OK, I conquered the beast. Thanks for the excellent video. I am not a car guy, but I am handy. Here are some additional points, many of which have been already made. Mine is a 2004 CRV, so I had throttle cables attached to the throttle body. (I use these terms like I know what I am talking about. I do not...) Therefore I detached the throttle body from the intake manifold (4 bolts). That eliminated having to disconnect anything with coolant in it. I also moved the metal piece that runs along the front top, behind the radiator. Remove all of the bolts on the piece and just pull the piece forward a few inches. Then the manifold can just be lifted and shoved to the passenger side without being removed completely. It is still tight but it will come eventually. After putting it back together (which is much faster, btw) and starting the car ( it was the starter after all! There was always some doubt...), the idle raced up and down for a while. Then it settled in at 2200 rpm- really fast, and the check engine light was on. I drove it a little bit, let it idle a bit, and within a short time the idle was back to normal (1000) and the check engine light went off. I guess the computer had to reset itself .... I left out the part about dealing with a rounded, rusty intake manifold bolt and not being sure how to disconnect connections. Simple for someone who does it all the time but there is always the fear that you are going to destroy something.... Anyone know where I can get intake manifold bolts and air filter box screws? Mine are rusty beyond recognition...
Great video, very helpful. I tried first by the bottom. I believe if you can loose the 17mm bolt from the bottom, you can finish the job from there, For me was impossible, the thread had some lock glue from factory, Pull out the intake, was a piece of cake. Honda's electric plugs, hoses, clamps, are forever. Very good quality. Took me 45 minutes to pull it out, and I reused the same rubber o'rings for the intake manifold gasket. Another 45 minutes to install it back. (Honda CRV 2005). Thank you,
Yay! Got the starter replaced and it fixed my problem (most people never re-post what the solution to what their problem was). Video was VERY helpful. I needed a breaker bar for the bolts on the starter (I'm a weenie arm). Used a flat-head to get hoses off as some were crusted on. Took me 2 1/2 hours and some stuff was a tight fit as it doesn't look so bad on the video I'm a novice. Got the part on Amazon for $50 less than the local parts store and it fit exactly (kinda funny it was a re-man GM part) Thanks a TON!!! I will have to disagree though. I don't call it a fun project ;)
Should show how to unplug wires without breaking. I was unsure if i squeeze it or pry it off. Well i broke one but can still reconnect but will have to seal it with silicone to protect from elements.
Thanks for the video tutorial. There are a couple of things I should have looked into before starting though.. So far I did got the throttle body out but the fit was way tighter than I expected. Had to take the studded bolts out of the intake manifold and pivot the crap out of the throttle body until it barely squeezed out. Not looking forward to putting it back. Now I need to get some better tools to get the 17mm bolt out of the starter. That thing is torqued so hard it feels like it's welded
Thank you very much, it really works. At the begining I was very scary to do it, I was thinking to call a crane, to a mecanic etc, but with your video I became optimistic. Please keep doing this. Very helpfull video and I saved a lot of money. Regards.
Excellent video! This is the way to go..i have a 2004 2.4 I seperated the throttle body with cables by removing four bolts then swung it out of the way. i thought about removing the studs then I figured it out. It comes out by the battery side kind of lower left side while coming up against right radiator hose. The starter came out and new one replaced in minutes. Like the video said it takes two hours. If I did it again I could do it in much less. Thanks
The replacement starter comes with a warning "do not hammer". Coastal cars, & northern vehicles that suffer road salt will freeze the starter on the block. The 2 bolts attaching the starter can also get seized. Work with a good quality penetrant over 3-4 days to free if you can crack them loose in the first place... If you disconnect the battery you will have to re code the radio and perform an idle re-learn procedure which can be problematic if the IAC is on the way out, or the engine valves have never been adjusted.
thank you so much bro! i have the 02 civic si and its pretty much the same i just wanted to see what needed to be removed in order to get to the starter. Keep up the good work!
That's exactly what happened with ours. It cranked over more slowly every day and I thought for sure it was the battery. Nope! It was this blasted hidden starter. But thank you for the helpful video!
Thanks for sharing this. I watched it several times, then referred to it as I changed mine out. I had a very difficult time removing the intake manifold once it was disconnected - brute force was the key. I also had a rough time with the bolts for the starter - the 17mm seemed to have some powdery stuff all over it and the threads seemed to have some gunk in it. I wonder if they had some sort of Loc-Tite added to it. I had to get a #12-1.25 nut from the hardware store to try to clean up the threads. I also got a 90mm long bolt that was similar, though I managed to re-use the bolt that I had removed. The car starts easily now. I'll check it in the morning when it's cold out as that's when I had the most difficulty.
AH64armament Great advice, and thanks for the tips. I am sure that they will help out others in the future. I am glad the repair ended up working out for you.
@@christopherhudson5090 - I'm not sure what you're meaning... did I spell it incorrectly? If so, I'm sure everyone got the gist of it. But thanks for pointing it out.
Just did this. Took pretty much all day. I had to take the 2 studs off that hold the middle two nuts of the intake (cnce I got the intake of out the way. I actually had to slide the manifold to the right, to get to the starter.. It was a very tight fit to slide it to right. Also took out the air filter box and battery. Don't forget to replace the o ring gaskets that go on the manifold. I didnt do this once on a ford and it ran like shit... ya gotta replace those o rings as long as you got it out. It was a long job andI do a lot of car repairs. Took forever finding all the connectors and reattaching once starter was in place. Tried briefly to do this from below.... impossible... dont care what anyone says... cant be done. Anyway, good luck and set aside a least half a day. Replace the upper radiator hose while your at it!
Tried coming from the bottom. Bolt was so tight on there I had to do this method to get a good angle on it. Wish I had started with this, would have saved me a couple of hours and a banged up hand.
Hey Jerry, I'm the guy that has the video of taking out the starter from the bottom, the bolt on the back side of the starter was not hard to get out, true, a guy with big hands might have some difficulty getting to the back bolt, but then he will have a problem getting to some of the connections, nuts and bolts from the top also. You did a good video for giving guys an idea of what to look for from the top so one way or the other they can get it done. Also, going from the bottom took me about 1 1/2 hours, start to finish. Next time would be a lot faster because I know what to do now.
Hey! Your video did a good job of explaining your method of removing the starter. I just prefer being able to see what I am doing. It gets frustrating when I cant get bolts to line up when they are out of my sight. Keep up the good work though!
Great video! The other suggestion I found for my issue was a knackered ignition switch... How easiest to check? Was going to try and give the starter a smack with a hammer but seems hard to get at.
Awesome vid... helped out TONS, only thing I did diff I loostened up the rad support and pulled it fwd on the driver side instead of taking off the hood latch. WTG keep the vids coming!
While you are there, might as well replace the knock sensor, it probably has a check engine light on for it. It is just left of the top bolt of the starter. Thanks for the great video
I dig your style man; I love working on my car but I hate layin' face up underneath the thing. I've got an '06 myself with an intermittent no-start problem, sounds just like a dead battery when it won't start, but if I turn it off and try it again right away, lo and behold, crank-crank-go no problem. Dead batteries don't just come back to life like that, so it looks like this is gonna be my Saturday probably. Just thought I should mention, since some of your viewers might not be as sharp as you are... If you use this method be REALLY careful not to drop anything down into the intake side of the engine, lest you turn your $100 starter project into a $2000 engine replacement. One would think nobody's crazy enough to try to replace the starter in their car if they don't know the basics of the engine's operation. I used to work with a kid who managed to rip his '94 altima apart far enough to see the starter, then he couldn't get one of the bolts loose so he called me, I went over and spent two hours replacing the starter, snapping everything back together and whatnot. Meanwhile, the chit-chat between us turned into a lesson for him on what an engine actually does with gasoline to turn it into kinetic energy. Now he understands why dropping a bolt into the engine will cause it to have a very bad day. This is a great video, thanks a bunch for your help, man, keep JerryRiggin'!
Will Mowson Awesome tips man, Thanks for taking the time to write it up. I should definitely have mentioned keeping those holes clean, and clear of debris or parts. Ive seen guys stuff the holes with shop rags to keep things out of the engine. That might be smart as well, as long as you don't lose the shop rag down the hole as well.
Hey thanks, after two months of occasional hard starts, mine ended up being a dead battery. It turns out these cars kill batteries in a real weird way. I was ready to replace the starter but thursday morning it just said no, but with a jump from my neighbor it cranked right up, so I slammed a quick battery into it and we're back to crank-crank-go. Thanks again for the help, awesome technique; I'm sure the starter isn't far out on this one anyhow, after all it's got 232,000 miles on it..
Had to change mine today in my fiances 2005 crv SE. One tip for anyone going to attempt this.. be cautions while putting in the air intake manifold back into its spot, the small butt connector that plugs into the starter can unplug and if you dont catch it and you put it all back together , its gonna suck to try to fit your hand in there to plug it in. I know first hand
Just finished my '02 Cr-V. You inspired me to go from above instead of underneath -- it was not that difficult. The '02 still has cables to the throttle body, so I just removed it and set it behind the engine. I never removed the battery - it wasn't in the way. You have to kind of muscle the intake manifold out, but it will come out. Took me about 2 hrs total - I don't know how anyone gets the starter out from below.
This vid is for an auto trans, fyi. Manual process is only slightly different, but, more importantly, the actual starter motor for the manual is different. I bought one on Amazon after watching this, and didn’t know it was the wrong one until I got my intake out and saw. Amazon incorrectly said the starter mentioned in this video was compatible with a manual engine.
Removing the intake manifold from the compartment is a bugger. I could not do it without stressing the radiator hose. I feared breaking the upper radiator hose flange, since it is plastic. I had to remove the top radiator hose. With it in place I could not remove the intake manifold. Trust me, taking the radiator hose off will make your life easier, even though you have to deal with the antifreeze issue. I needed a cheater bar on my ratchet to break loose the two bolts holding the starter in place. Be prepared for that. Upon assembling, I had overlooked the reconnection to the Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Control Curcuit on the far left below the intake manifold. That caused the Check Engine Light to come on. Don't forget that connection. It's easy to overlook because it is out of sight.
I probably will never be in this situation where I need to do something mechanical like that, but I still watch your videos because they are interesting. Good job!
This helped a lot but you really should've shown how you got the manifold out plus your vehicle doesn't seem to have a oil leak like most crv's tend to have so a lot of your hoses weren't nearly glued from the outside.
Hi Jerry, Great video :-) i also had to replace my starter motor ... And your video was a great help ! the step by step guide was great and i was able to get it all in and out in 3-4 hrs(it rained while i was doing it in the driveway) the starter bolts were the hardest to remove but got there in the end :-) Thanks again for a great video !!!
Thank you so much. My friend was doing mine and he said it had to go to the shop cuz he was going from the bottom. I appreciate you bunches!! Saved me big bucks. He said i had to take it to the Honda dealership. I did it myself, took WAY more than an hour but I'm on the road again!!!
It's doable from the bottom but unless you have a lift it's much easier to do it from the top. Also you better pray that you don't have any seized or over torqued bolts if you try to get to it from the bottom. My 17 mm bottom bolt took a lot of PB blaster, MAPP torch, and torque bar to get loose. There's no way in hell I could have done that from the bottom. just goes to show that sometimes fewer steps =/= easier or quicker job.
Torque specs:
- Starter Motor top long bolt (1): 33 lbf·ft
- Starter Motor bottom short bolt (1): 47 lbf·ft
- Throttle Body bolts (4): 16 lbf·ft
- Intake Manifold nuts (2) and bolts (3): 16 lbf·ft
thanks for the great video.
Thank you very much! Top tip.
Thank you for this info. I will be changing the starter on my moms crv soon and this info will help. I appreciate you!
Thanks for the torque specs.
Thanks man, back then my father didnt have torque wrenches. He always told me "Get it finger tight, then wrench tight, then lightly apply a more tight push....and theres your torque" his advice has helped me over 10 years now 🤣🤣🤣
Where would I get the bolts for the intake manifold ? I tightened them at 33 lbs 😅 instead of 16 ouch!
Nicely done. Overall, the information contained here was invaluable. I approached the project with confidence and saved at least $350 (after deducting $300 for new tools).I hadn't done this kind for work in 60 years.
The auto shop quoted me $650 to replace the starter in my 2002 CRV L-4. The dealer quoted $1,600. I just today began the process of dismantling, and this video has been invaluable, except for not showing the actual removal of the two starter mounting bolts.
I just finished installing the (rebuilt) starter, and it's working fine. First, I want to emphasize is the extreme difficulty in removing (and re-installing) the two large mounting bolts holding the starter in place. Mine were torqued down to the max, and Loctite (or the equivalent) had been used. I had to run to O'Reilly's and buy a 2-ft 1/2"-drive breaker bar to u freeze these two bolts, and even after breaking them loose, it was tough getting them out with a 12"-drive ratchet. It was the same with replacing them. There wasn't a 1/8-inch to spare, so I did the best I could with just the ratchet. I would not recommend replacing a starter without a 2-ft long 1/2"-drive ratcheting breaker bar.
I also highly recommend loosening the radiator supports for better access and using heavy-duty bungie cords to hold restrain the right-hand wiring harness and also on the left side to restrain the manifold, which I had left attached to the vacuum hose.
Tips for 2005 Honda CRV
- Remove the upper radiator hose and the rest of the intake, to allow for enough room to get the intake out
- For the 2 small coolant hoses which are bottom, right, remove both of them, both sides. If you only disconnect one side, they will be taking up space that you need to get the intake in and out.
- Check and check again that all connectors and hoses have been removed. These are all mentioned in the video, but I still missed at least 3.
I was in there to replace my knock sensor (btw, torque is 23 ft-lbs). I also replaced upper/lower radiator hoses, while I was in there.
Thanks for the video, very helpful!
Thanks for the video! Did this job today, and for those who are asking about getting the intake out, you have to work it a bit, but have some patience, it will come out to the right and at an angle...
I really wasn't expecting Jerry when I clicked on a random video about my starter motor
Love that my phone guy is helping me fix my car too! :D
Followed this for my 05 CRV, great walk through THANKS! ~ A NOTE of caution on reassembly. Watch your wires. I didn't notice but inadvertently knocked the spade connector starter wire loose during reinstall of manifold. Didn't realize it until I had everything reassembled & CRV wouldn't crank. I crawled under with a light & saw starter spade wire dangling. Had to take the bottom protective plastic loose & fight from below to get the wire back on. Finally did it & it fired right up. Even with set back took
I have an ‘04 model and there were a few differences, but not much.
The main thing is that the manifold doesn’t come all the way out, but I got it off to the side enough that i could reach the starter. No biggie.
Didn’t replace the gasket because it wasn’t cracked or anything...
That 17mm was a pain! Had to use a breaker bar to get it loosened up.
Thank you so much for sharing!
Did you have to remove either radiator hose?
@@patvirgin8822 I don’t believe so
My mom has a CRV that recently took a dump in a parking lot at a store. Me, not wanting to work on it when the store was open, decided to wait to fix it until the store closed. They closed at 6 last night, so I got there at about 7. I finally left at about 12:30, but darn it we got her fixed. Thank you for the information in the video. What always gets me is either a bolt that won’t budge, or some dumb clip or something. When you work on a car and you think it will take an hour or two, plan out an extra couple hours just in case, because you might get unlucky like me. The extra trips to the house for stuff I needed, definitely didn’t help me get done any earlier
I just completed this exact same job and it was super easy after watching your video. Thank you so much! I did find that you do not need to cut the green tie. You can fairly easily reach it from the under the car and just push the connector off. I did end up loosening the radiator support just to make it easier to remove the intake manifold. Removing the radiator support was really no big deal and made it MUCH easier. I did not see any reason to get a new gasket (o rings). THANK YOU AGAIN!
04 crv starter replaced thanks to this video. Good straightforward help. Thanks a ton. Saved my job. Who needs a 5.7 liter engine. No bike required. Just a phone right ? Seriously, thanks man.
I just finished the starter installation for my crv FOLLOWING your excellent instructional video which was as the commenter said was right on point. Just wanted to say thanks man! You are worth paying attention to, great vid, keep me coming bud
Heck ya! I'm glad you got it it fixed! its a tough one.
the way he is showing you to replace the starter is not called for you can replace the starter down belong in half the time and one third the cost he don't know what he is doing total time replacing the starter down below is 1 1/2 hours tops.
Much thanks to Jerry for an excellent video! Replaced the starter in our 04 CRV EX today. Took me the entire day, but I took my time - considering the temp outside was 98 degrees. Disconnected and removed the battery first. Removed the upper air intake duct next, unplugging the sensor and air flow tube as per Jerry's video. Disconnected all of the sensors from the throttle body intake, along with the various small hoses that are connected to it. Lost a lot of coolant from those two disconnected hoses underneath the throttle body intake. Refilled on reassembly. Labeled each connector and hose with it's corresponding connection. I had to do that because I knew I'd forget. Removed the upper radiator hose from the engine and kept it tilted upward to avoid coolant loss. Note: When reconnecting this hose to the engine, there is a small protruding nodule on the top of the nozzle where this upper radiator hose connects to the engine. Be careful not to push the upper radiator hose on too far as it will cover the nodule and create a coolant leakage - even with the clamp in place. Next, I removed the throttle body intake from the intake manifold (4 bolts). There are multiple connectors and hoses connected to the throttle body intake, top and bottom. On the 04 EX, there are two throttle cables that loop around and connect to the throttle body intake. I did not disturb these because I didn't want the hassle of adjusting the cables on reinstall. There is a lower air duct that runs from under the very front rail of the engine compartment and connects to another air duct that runs up into the bottom of the air filter assembly. If you remove this lower air duct (two bolts on the front rail and pull apart from adjoining air duct), you will create more space to work. I placed the disconnected throttle body intake with throttle cables attached and untouched over where the battery was, so as to afford myself room to remove the intake manifold. Disconnected the sensor connectors and hoses from the intake manifold, as per Jerry's video. Disconnected and removed the fuel injector power harness from just above the intake manifold, and turned it to the side. The intake manifold came off without a hitch. Just be careful because there are connections attached to the underside of it. Jerry covers them in his video. No gaskets or O-rings on mine. I covered both the intake openings on the manifold and the engine with Press N Seal food wrap, so as to not allow foreign matter or sweat to enter the engine. Once the intake manifold was out of the car, the starter was right there! Had to use a breaker bar for the 17mm and 14mm mounting bolts. It only took about 30 minutes total to remove the bad starter and replace it. The rest was removal and reassembly time, trying to remove hoses from connectors that have been there for 225,000 miles.. Just remember to double check your connectors and hoses and replace any lost coolant when putting it all back together, and you should be good to go! Note: If you experience a fluctuating idle when you start the vehicle, you probably missed a connector somewhere.
Thanks for writing all of that out! Its important for people to get more than one perspective. I'm glad you got it all fixed! If you lost a lot of coolant, keep an eye on your temp gauge for the next few weeks to make sure you dont have any bubbles in the lines. You should be ok though.
Legend, just finished my wife’s car. The pipe in the middle of the manifold is on the right side on our car and I had to remove the pipe from the top of the radiator to get enough room to get the manifold out. Your vid was very helpful all these years later. Thank you.
Man, heaps of thanks! I did a fix for the first time in my life, and after some hours I managed to make it, and my CR-V ticks now as a swiss watch!
Mahalo for showing me how easy it is to replace my CRV starter. I watched the video above yours and the guy had pulled all kinds of extra parts off. He puller off the radiator strut and so many other items. And he was hard to understand. Your video was so much easier to follow and understand. GREAT JOB!!!
Jerry, Thank you for sharing this video. I am a mechanic hobbyist and I once in a while work on other people's cars to earn a few dollars on the side to help pay the bills (& beer). Anyway, this morning I got a call from a lady who wants me to replace the starter in her Honda CRV. When I found out that I have to replace the intake manifold to reach the starter, I had to turn down the job and referred her to a shop that I know that is honest.
After watching your video, I felt that I should have accepted the job. It will take me about 3.5 hours (realistically) to complete the job but I would have earned a little bit today. Anyways, the next time I get a starter replacement job for a Honda CRV, I will definitely take it.
Thank you again for sharing this repair video.
Thank you for watching! I myself watched a few honda CRV starter replacement videos before attempting my repair, and none of them did a very good job of explaining what was going on w/ the intake manifold. So hopefully my video helps more people out. Thanks for watching!
Great video - thank you. It was reassuring to see removing the manifold as an alternative method does not require too much disassembly. In addition to the great advice in this video I also recommend checking out Honda's Service manual section 9-2 on Intake Manifold Removal and Installation section. I went with something in between:
1. I removed the air box cover - more room for my hands to move
2. I left the IMT solenoid valve (minute 2:50) attached with its tubes to the valve position sensor and instead unscrewed the little phillips head screw from the back to release its bracket - fewer tubes to worry about
3. After the manifold was loose, I followed the advice to move towards the battery side and slowly tilt it up one port at a time. However, I laid up a slippery but tough rag on top of the upper radiator hose and all the wires I had pushed away from the front of the car - this helped protect the radiator hose as I was pushing down hard on it while trying to clear the (2x) tabs at the bottom of the manifold
4. I replaced the intake O-rings
My car is '05 and has over 150k miles. While I was there I also replaced the alternator (extra 20min) and the PCV valve.
Thanks again.
I FIXED IT. I FIXED IT IT STARTED I FIXED IT! YOU ARE THE BEST!!!!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! I've never once done anything but change tires or oil but with your video I fixed my starter and by all accounts a stupidly placed one! I'll be riding this high all week! IM THE MASTER OF THE UNIVERSE I CAN DO ANYTHING! 😂 ok I'll stop. Seriously though, this feels amazing!
YOU ARE A GODDESS! I have been trying to psych myself up for a week for this job and I came across your comment and you help me recall who I AM. Thank YOU truly!
Very helpful video. Thank you!
The hoses that you point out that leak at 3:25 are leaking coolant. Tip for others is to place a pan under the area since you don't want coolant leaking everywhere. Also, it was hard to get them to stop leaking. Might want to have some coolant available to top off after everything is put back together.
To get the manifold out I also had to remove the large coolant hose.
I have an '04 CR-V and it was slightly different than your model but this still worked.
I just changed my thermostat yesterday from underneath and it was a pain, today I cleaned my throttle body assembly. Doing it your way would have been way easier. If my starter goes this will be the way I go. I already have a new alternator and A/C compressor on the shelf waiting. Thanks, good knowledge to have.
I disconnected the engine side of the top radiator hose also for more room. Your video was the easiest. The others took off way more than they had to. None of the videos addressed the cruise control. I must live in the only place where every car i work on has cruise, but it was no big deal. Also the reason that Honda puts that long bolt on the top of the starter on various models is so you can take the starter out from the bottom. But I decided to try it this way this time and it was easier and took me less time. THANKS!
Hey man - truly appreciate the overview - my son and I knocked it out in a couple hours - I would add to crimp down on the connector from the ignition to keep it from coming loose - thanks again!!!
Just performed this on my 05 CRV. Took about 4 hours total. Your instructions were on point. Thanks for a great video!
YES! Thanks for watching. Glad I could help out.
Wow...unbelievable. I miss the days when you could crawl under your car and pull the starter out with 2 bolts!
Thanks for the vid.
Me too, I used to do it at in the auto parts parking lot in five minutes.
Yeah! I daily a truck with a sbc 350 and was really surprised when he took off the intake manifold.
I couldn’t get the manafold to come out. It seems like it’s wider than the hole
I've worked on cars my whole life, and I've changed many a starter by working from underneath. I was a little intimidated by the idea of removing the intake manifold though to do it this way. I was picturing gaskets that would have to be replaced etc. That turned out to be a non-issue. Having successfully completed the replacement, it was relatively easy, and I agree it is far preferable to crawling underneath.
There are two challenges that I would say get glossed over in this video:
1- That cable tie that he snips to detach the harness that runs underneath was a real bear to cut. It is deep down, and crowded and I had a difficult time getting my hand down there with cutters.
2- The video shows him detaching the manifold, then suddenly it is on his work bench. That ignored what I found was the hardest part of this job, actually lifting the manifold out. It is an incredibly tight fit, and it took a lot of trial and error and angling to find a route out past the harnesses, hoses and body of the car. There is an air intake hose that I also removed to give me some more room. Getting it back in was an equal challenge.
Satisfied in the end though that this was way easier than trying to get the starter out from underneath.
I just finished putting in a starter on my 2003 CRV. The only thing needed was the starter, a new intake gasket, new plastic tabs for reattaching the plastic cowling covering the radiator/cross member (that the hood latch is attached too), regular screw driver, a philips screwdriver, a needle nose pliers, a metric socket set and a jack handle to loosen the bolts on the starter. The starter was $189 at Autozone, with another $50 off for when you return the junk starter. It took two of us about two hours.
To make room, we 1: took out the battery and filter-to-intake hose, 2: took the bolts out of the hood latch and set the hood latch in the battery area (we did not disconnect the cables to the latch) for extra room, 3: We pulled the cross member above the radiator (that the hood latch is attached too) forward a couple inches. To do this we removed the plastic cowling covering the cross member - plan on punching out the plastic tabs that hold it on and replace them with new ones when you reinstall it (buy them at Autozone). We then took the bolts out of the cross member, disconnected the air intake attached to the cross member, and then pulled the cross member forward a couple inches to make room. In my 2003 we HAD to move that cross member or the air intake manifold would not come out. With the cross member moved, the manifold came out easy.
My carb is mechanical so we took it off the intake (remove four bolts) without removing any electrical connections or hoses and pushed it aside (it helps to have someone hold it off to the side when actually removing the manifold itself). When we went to take out the manifold bolts they were rusted on the studs and the studs came out like one long bolt. I don't think the studs would have been in the way if they did not come out.
Like others in the comments said, we needed a jack handle to extend the socket wrench to get the bolts loose on the starter. The whole operation was a matter of screws, nuts bolts and a couple vacuum hose attachment sites - no fluids leaking or needing replacing.
Great tutorial. I noticed that when ai did it today, you can avoid disconnecting 2/3 of the cables and hoses if you separate the throttle body from the manifold. You can then flip the manifold over and lay it on the upper part of the engine without disconnecting that completely. Of course I figured that out after completion. Thanks for a great video.
+kuan720 smart tip! Lol. I'll have to try that next time...
I was just going to say that and it was the first comment LOL
Except those bolts are pretty much heat welded in. I'd say they are at 60 lbs at least. Best to just loosen the radiator support bar I think. Idk I'll update tomorrow when I finish. But I noticed he didn't include the part where it actually came out haha
My long bolt is rusted and worn out. Cant get a grip on it. I fear damaging the manifold.
Thank you JerryRig! Your video is so clear, easy to follow and simple. I followed it to a T, and replaced the starter today no problem.
Wouldn't be on my way worry-free without your video!
You are a champion. Its a tough repair! Glad we could work on it together.
Hi Jerry. Your video was a great help. I just did this on my 2005 CRV and I am not sure I would have tried it without your guidance. Only minor difference for me was the Y hose you had on the left side of your manifold. Mine was a single tube. Also, I ended up taking off the plastic air intake that goes from the grill to the airbox, and taking off the long plastic cover over the radiator. Just to give more room. I did not take the manifold all the way out. I was able to swap starter by moving manifold to the far right near battery tray. Some of the hoses were tricky to back off and I too had to use a breaker bar to remove the 17mm bolt on the starter. Thank you very much for posting this how-to.
Eric Carterr Just noticed your name is Billy not Jerry. Oops. Thanks again!
My 05 crv starter still work fine after 13 years and 163k miles.
This video was a big help. I had a heck of a time getting the hoses off of the manifold (big hands made it tough) and it took me a while to actually remove the manifold once everything was disconnected but eventually it came out.
The bolts on the starter were so tight that there is NO WAY I could have removed it from underneath. I had to slip a pipe over my ratchet to loosen the bolts, but once I got to that point, it was as easy as playing with Legos.
The engine light came on after I had everything replaced, but it turns out that I didn't slip one of the plugs all the way on. I found it and locked it in place. After an engine reset (unplug the battery for 20 sec) everything was great.
Thanks again for the video.
Kurtis, was there a particular way to remove the manifold? The instructions are great except there's no explanation in how to pull the manifold. Mine is appears to be stuck with the bar located in front of the radiator..
Yeah you should be able to remove that little bar with some 10mm bolts and allow you to
Take out the manifold quite easily
Hey, just want to thank you for posting this video. My starter finally gave out. It took me 3hrs but I got it done. Thanks again.
Darwin Benitez Nice! Its a fun project. Especially once youve seen it done one time before. Figuring it out without visuals is rough. Thanks for watching!
Just finished doing another one of these so more tips....
remove the bolts from the front cross member (directly behind radiator) and pull that cross member forwards as far as you can.
Also remove the two studs in the middle after you get intake manifold pulled forward. You should now be able to flip intake manifold over to the right and just leave it standing in a vertical position. Also , the little green thing he clipped off can be removed by pulling. Don't forget to use new "O" rings, and be sure they are seated properly on inside of manifold (pull old ones out first, duh). Number all connectors with tags. This time I did not take out the air box, but I did remove the battery and lower breather duct that goes to bottom of air box. This time it only took me a 3 hours but I had two helpers handing me tools. I also had to use the handle of a floor jack on my BIG 17mm socket as a breaker bar on the big starter bolt, and had to use it on the a wrench on the other starter bolt. Look carefully at the little spade connector that goes on the new starter, some are vertical tabs and some have horizontal tabs , keep that in mind when you push spade on tab. ps - Honda , this is one stupid design for a starter placement.
This was all good advice, wish I saw this before trying the first time. Came back and read this once I realized that manifold just doesn't come out. Took an extra hour to get it out of the way enough to reach under it. I also needed a 10 foot pipe on the end of my biggest socket to break the starter free.
Lastly, something pulled the wire harness hard enough to unplug the starter. It was barely reachable from underneath (unsafely with a floor jack?), so I didn't have to take it all apart again.
jpritch 2 On a 1995 Ford F1 50 what can you do about sticky lifters get a small tit how to free it up
man...I only work on hondas ... sorry.
Best advice above from JPritch 2: Read it, then go back and read it again.
Remove the two studs after pulling the manifold forward.
Remove the three 10 mm. bolts to the hood latch.
Replace manifold o-rings. (I damaged mine on the second go around removal since the solenoid wire fell off).
PLUG THE COOLANT LINES you remove from the bottom of the throttle body intake (use a small rubber tool or a 1/4" bit) next to the intake manifold.
If the coolant spills make sure you have a spare gallon of Type 2 Honda to replace (or dump and refill if it's been a few years - get two gallons).
DOUBLE CHECK (underneath if you have to) that the spade plug to the solenoid hasn't gotten knocked out of place by the manifold going back into position. You might want to tighten the female plug a little bit to make sure it stays on. I learned the hard way.
The brushes can be replaced. The assembly from Honda is about $50 (Part number 31210RRAA52) plus the plunger set to repair the solenoid: another $18 (stealership or Amazon) or get a full set of brush assembly and plunger set for under $20 on fleabay. The quality isn't the same as OEM but it works. For how long is another question. Got 13.5 years before the starter wouldn't give another start. Fortunately this died in the driveway, not while driving cross country or even driving around town.
read my other tips below as well.
Thanks for the instructional video, I found it very helpful. The most difficult part for me was removing the intake manifold once you have it disconnected from everything. For that I ended up unbolting the front metal bracket above the grill (which the hood latch attaches to) without fully removing it, that gave me just enough wiggle room to slide it back a little and get the manifold out. I know it's possible to get the manifold out without doing that but I was struggling with it and unbolting that bracket was not at all difficult (just 4 10mm bolts once you take off the plastic cover on top). Also another tip. The hose and electrical connector on the bottom left side of the manifold are really hard to get to. It's a lot easier to remove them / or put them back in once the manifold is unbolted from the engine, that way you can slide the manifold back a little and you'll have a lot more room to reach those parts.
Just did the swap on a 2004 CR-V replacing the original starter with the REMY replacement version with external solenoid. I have the Haynes manual for this model, and it did say to remove the radiator support bar (the cross member). I didn't actually take it out, just pulled it to the front of the vehicle. If you take out the bolts holding that support down and the two little supports keeping you from pulling it towards the front of the car, you can pull the whole bar forward enough to get the manifold out with removing any studs.
Note on removing radiator support cover to get to radiator support bar, you are going to break a bunch of those plastic plug in retainers as happens whenever you remove any plastic panels on the Honda. They are hard to find at parts stores, but can be had really cheap in bags of 25, 50 or 100 from Amazon.
FYI, from the 2001-2004 Civic and CR-V Haynes manual, manifold bolt torque is 16 ft-lbs, starter motor bolt torques are ; 33 ft-lbs (small bolt), 47 ft-lbs (large bolt).
Finally, I have one 10mm bolt left that had something to do with the radiator support (since it was in that pile). Car is back together, starts and runs fine. Fingers crossed.
I really appreciated this video - very helpful! The only thing I would add is that when taking the manifold out, you can't just pull it straight out. It needs to be twisted at an angle and then pulled out over by the radiator hose. Also, the top radiator hose should be disconnected at the radiator to give enough room to pull it out.
Bill Bowler Good tips. Thanks for commenting!
Didn’t expect to see Zack doing a tutorial on my car lol
Much easier to follow than the videos that tell you to take your spare tire off the back and your windshield wipers off to get to the starter. Now if only mechanics follow this guide then the job won't require 4 hours of labor charges at a garage! Well done and thanks!
U the man jerry! Just done this,too easy.I had to remove the throttle body to remove intake mani as it is a tight squeeze but will slide out sideways.Took 1 1/2 hrs,easier than it looks.IT'S JUST NUTS AND BOLTS :)
Thanx Bro. Mine is a 2004 and has electrical running through a box on the drivers side of the intake that is bolted onto it. Rather than get involved with this I took off the top radiator hose and removed the vent intake, then just moved the intake out towards the drivers side and let it sit there while I worked the starter. Everything worked out great. Thanx for the video.
Jess Converse Nice man, thats a good tip for anyone else trying this repair. Thanks for commenting!
I just replaced the dying starter motor in my 2006 CR-V using this video as a guide. Overall it's a great video, but like others pointed out it doesn't show how to take the intake manifold out of the vehicle, which turns out is very difficult. I never was able to, but it seems that in order to do it you need to slide it towards where the battery sits. It appears that you need to remove the upper radiator hose to do that.
I did manage to replace the starter while just having the intake manifold sitting off to the side, towards the battery area. Overall the process wasn't too difficult, but some hoses were really hard to get off (they likely haven't been taken off for the 15 years of the vehicle's life), and the bolts holding the starter in were VERY difficult to get out due to rust holding them in tight. Having the manifold partially in the way also made it difficult to get leverage.
I disassembled the old starter and it appears that one of the 4 brushes was stuck and likely not making contact, which would effectively result in the motor having half its normal power. This would explain the difficult starts on cold mornings.
With the new starter, and a recently replaced battery, my CR-V now starts like new.
I'm a Toyota guy, build rock crawlers, I'm sure I can pull and replace and probably rebuild the 22re in one day... I can pull one in about 20 minutes. Lol. But these things are a whole new ball of wax to me, and when I started to realize I had to pull the intake, I thought... It can't be too much worse than my 22 re. Lol. In a sense it's really not, as long as you know where everything is... And thanks to you I do! I literally just did this entire thing in a little over an hour. Haven't made sure it was the starter of yet but I'm pretty damn certain. Lol. I just wanted to thank you man, you really saved my ass! I'm on a huge crunch to make my second appointment having missed the first one because of this for my airbag replacement. thanks again, boss!
The nice thing is they are plastic and very light.
Hi - Thank you, thank you, thank you! Just finished installing my new starter and was so excited that it started right up! Only thing trouble I had was in order to get the intake manifold out I ended up taking the upper radiator hose and fresh air in take out. But it was no big deal! Thanks for the great instructions and visuals! Best part was the auto parts store miss quoted the starter price (gave me a quote for civic starter over the phone) and gave me the part for only $90!
+Ben Carr Nice! Sounds like you saved yourself a TON of money. Good job!
Great instructional video, good tips and advice on what NOT to take off. I now have confidence to replace the starter in my wife's '06 CRV without having to do a bunch of extra work...
Great video! Replaced my starter in about 2.5 hours. I did some things a bit different that worked better for me but the principals in this video really helped. Thank you.
So I thought about trying to replace this myself and suprise my wife... This video showed me I would have been in over my haed... Thank you for showing how this was done and saving me a fight with my wife :-)
There's no reason to disconnect anything that's connected to the throttle body. Just unbolt it from the manifold and move it off to the side. Especially the coolant hoses, it just makes a mess for no reason then you have to bleed the system.
Facts lol I was wondering why the air box and everything else coming out
I found this to be not true. I tried just moving the throttle body off to the side, but there wasn't enough room to slide out the intake manifold when you do that. It was only once I fully removed the throttle body like this video showed that I was able to get the manifold out.
I did it from the bottom an it work really easy I just follow the manual instructions,only took me like 20 minutes,too long I guess.
Is this a video how to change a starter or engine?
Subscribed to your channel for your phone videos. And just by chance we own the same car and I needed to change the starter. Appreciate the video. Everything was fairly straight forward. Toughest parts were getting the intake manifold out of the car after everything was unattached. Had to slide it towards the right where the empty battery space was and then tilt and lift up. Second was getting the 17mm bolt off the starter. Bent a 3/8 ratchet. Then used a short 3/8 breaker bar with an addition of pvc pipe. I'm sure if I had a 18-25 inch breaker bar it would of made it a lot easier.
Took the old starter out and connected it to a battery to see if it worked. Watched videos on youtube to see how to do this. Even though it spun and the gears slid forward it didn't really spin fast . Took the starter to Autozone, they have a machine to test starter and alternators when they are out of the car. It had 3 red fails come up. Got a Duralast remanufactured one, they gave me 20% off, which was being offered on their website but usually they don't give that in store. I asked them to test the one I was buying, didn't want to get home install everything to find out it didn't work. They said no problem. They hooked it up and it passed.
Got home installed the new one. Reinstalled everything else. Tried to start the car and it started right up.
Total cost $191 including tax. And a couple hours of time.
You made that really easy! Went much faster and smoother than I imagined. The best youtube video on this, by far!
The only somewhat unclear coverage was on theleft side. One Hose or two? Three electrical plugs or two?
Watched your video first and it took me about an hour from start to finish. Thanks a bunch!
Love the video. Probably the best video to take the starter out. So... I ran into a dilemma. After ordering the new starter, it came in a week and a half later. Now I have to put it back in. I'll have to look for follow up video.
Great video! Because my 2002 CR-V has throttle cables I had to unbolt and move the upper radiator support for clearance. Also, some of the hose clamps are the crimped style so I left them connected and just sat the intake manifold on top of the engine, out of the way. Thanks!
I am glad Honda engineers were not trying to make this difficult.
I completed the work in day and a half since I had to wait for the starter to come in the next day...was $120 for a rebuilt unit much cheaper than anything Kragen or Napa were offering.the job is difficult and you have to disconnect a lot of crap just to get the intake manifold in & out and its still an extremly tight fit, starter was pretty easy to remove.I asked one of the mechanic at a Honda dealer if the O rings had to replaced on manifold and he said no as long as they are in good shape.
My moms starter went out. Going to pick one up. Now just waiting on a few friends that do mechanical work to get it put in. I’m saving this video. Heck I might do it myself lol
OK, I conquered the beast. Thanks for the excellent video. I am not a car guy, but I am handy. Here are some additional points, many of which have been already made.
Mine is a 2004 CRV, so I had throttle cables attached to the throttle body. (I use these terms like I know what I am talking about. I do not...) Therefore I detached the throttle body from the intake manifold (4 bolts). That eliminated having to disconnect anything with coolant in it. I also moved the metal piece that runs along the front top, behind the radiator. Remove all of the bolts on the piece and just pull the piece forward a few inches. Then the manifold can just be lifted and shoved to the passenger side without being removed completely. It is still tight but it will come eventually.
After putting it back together (which is much faster, btw) and starting the car ( it was the starter after all! There was always some doubt...), the idle raced up and down for a while. Then it settled in at 2200 rpm- really fast, and the check engine light was on. I drove it a little bit, let it idle a bit, and within a short time the idle was back to normal (1000) and the check engine light went off. I guess the computer had to reset itself ....
I left out the part about dealing with a rounded, rusty intake manifold bolt and not being sure how to disconnect connections. Simple for someone who does it all the time but there is always the fear that you are going to destroy something....
Anyone know where I can get intake manifold bolts and air filter box screws? Mine are rusty beyond recognition...
Hey Im about to do this on my 2004 as well. Did you buy a new manifold gasket? I see a bunch of comments on here about that. Thanks!
Daniel Stretch I did not replace any gaskets. Everything remains fine.
Good to know. Thanks!
Great video, very helpful. I tried first by the bottom. I believe if you can loose the 17mm bolt from the bottom, you can finish the job from there, For me was impossible, the thread had some lock glue from factory, Pull out the intake, was a piece of cake. Honda's electric plugs, hoses, clamps, are forever. Very good quality. Took me 45 minutes to pull it out, and I reused the same rubber o'rings for the intake manifold gasket. Another 45 minutes to install it back. (Honda CRV 2005).
Thank you,
Nice! Glad I was able to make your process a little easier! Thanks for watching.
+Charly Maybe with a hammer gun you can take the bolt off
Yay! Got the starter replaced and it fixed my problem (most people never re-post what the solution to what their problem was). Video was VERY helpful. I needed a breaker bar for the bolts on the starter (I'm a weenie arm). Used a flat-head to get hoses off as some were crusted on. Took me 2 1/2 hours and some stuff was a tight fit as it doesn't look so bad on the video I'm a novice. Got the part on Amazon for $50 less than the local parts store and it fit exactly (kinda funny it was a re-man GM part) Thanks a TON!!! I will have to disagree though. I don't call it a fun project ;)
Billie Cabral lol, every project is 'fun' after its over. I'm glad I was able to help you out! The internet makes DIY projects so much easier.
Should show how to unplug wires without breaking. I was unsure if i squeeze it or pry it off. Well i broke one but can still reconnect but will have to seal it with silicone to protect from elements.
Thanks for the video tutorial. There are a couple of things I should have looked into before starting though..
So far I did got the throttle body out but the fit was way tighter than I expected. Had to take the studded bolts out of the intake manifold and pivot the crap out of the throttle body until it barely squeezed out. Not looking forward to putting it back. Now I need to get some better tools to get the 17mm bolt out of the starter. That thing is torqued so hard it feels like it's welded
This video was helpful! I cradled the manifold like a baby and was able to wiggle it out without removing the radiator hose like some have suggested
Great video! Pulled mine out and replaced in a little over an hour.
Thanks for the video! easier to see what you did instead of digging through forums and manuals
I also just finished replacing my starter on our CRV per your instructions. Great video thank you so much for posting.
Thank you very much, it really works. At the begining I was very scary to do it, I was thinking to call a crane, to a mecanic etc, but with your video I became optimistic. Please keep doing this. Very helpfull video and I saved a lot of money. Regards.
Jaime Valdez Thanks for commenting! I enjoy hearing that I save people money. I plan on continuing!
Excellent video! This is the way to go..i have a 2004 2.4 I seperated the throttle body with cables by removing four bolts then swung it out of the way. i thought about removing the studs then I figured it out. It comes out by the battery side kind of lower left side while coming up against right radiator hose. The starter came out and new one replaced in minutes. Like the video said it takes two hours. If I did it again I could do it in much less. Thanks
Wow.... This is bananas, here I am looking how to take off a stater for 2002 CR-V and you popped up.
DIDN'T FILM HOW YOU TOOK THAT MANIFOLD OUT
This has been a huge help. Although I won't be doing the replacement myself at least I can ask my mechanic all the right questions. Thanks hugely.
Phase 1: Take a bunch of stuff apart
Phase 2: ......
Phase 3: SUCCESS!!!
I'm stuck on phase 2 myself.
I'm in the same place. After sleeping on it, I'm realizing I didn't remove the battery. Maybe it slides out sideways thro the battery space?
@@danb4275 no idea
Yup me too
The replacement starter comes with a warning "do not hammer". Coastal cars, & northern vehicles that suffer road salt will freeze the starter on the block. The 2 bolts attaching the starter can also get seized. Work with a good quality penetrant over 3-4 days to free if you can crack them loose in the first place... If you disconnect the battery you will have to re code the radio and perform an idle re-learn procedure which can be problematic if the IAC is on the way out, or the engine valves have never been adjusted.
thank you so much bro! i have the 02 civic si and its pretty much the same i just wanted to see what needed to be removed in order to get to the starter. Keep up the good work!
That's exactly what happened with ours. It cranked over more slowly every day and I thought for sure it was the battery. Nope! It was this blasted hidden starter. But thank you for the helpful video!
Thanks for sharing this. I watched it several times, then referred to it as I changed mine out.
I had a very difficult time removing the intake manifold once it was disconnected - brute force was the key.
I also had a rough time with the bolts for the starter - the 17mm seemed to have some powdery stuff all over it and the threads seemed to have some gunk in it. I wonder if they had some sort of Loc-Tite added to it. I had to get a #12-1.25 nut from the hardware store to try to clean up the threads. I also got a 90mm long bolt that was similar, though I managed to re-use the bolt that I had removed.
The car starts easily now. I'll check it in the morning when it's cold out as that's when I had the most difficulty.
AH64armament Great advice, and thanks for the tips. I am sure that they will help out others in the future. I am glad the repair ended up working out for you.
Loctite
@@christopherhudson5090 - I'm not sure what you're meaning... did I spell it incorrectly? If so, I'm sure everyone got the gist of it. But thanks for pointing it out.
Ace help, thank you brother ! Couldn't have done it without you :)
Glad this is the first one that popped up for me. It was the easiest way to change out the starter.
Definitely the best method. Some of these other videos on the topic are nuts...
Just did this. Took pretty much all day. I had to take the 2 studs off that hold the middle two nuts of the intake (cnce I got the intake of out the way. I actually had to slide the manifold to the right, to get to the starter.. It was a very tight fit to slide it to right. Also took out the air filter box and battery. Don't forget to replace the o ring gaskets that go on the manifold. I didnt do this once on a ford and it ran like shit... ya gotta replace those o rings as long as you got it out. It was a long job andI do a lot of car repairs. Took forever finding all the connectors and reattaching once starter was in place. Tried briefly to do this from below.... impossible... dont care what anyone says... cant be done. Anyway, good luck and set aside a least half a day. Replace the upper radiator hose while your at it!
Tried coming from the bottom. Bolt was so tight on there I had to do this method to get a good angle on it. Wish I had started with this, would have saved me a couple of hours and a banged up hand.
This might be old, but this is gold. Will you have more videos on this particular vehicle?
Hey Jerry, I'm the guy that has the video of taking out the starter from the bottom, the bolt on the back side of the starter was not hard to get out, true, a guy with big hands might have some difficulty getting to the back bolt, but then he will have a problem getting to some of the connections, nuts and bolts from the top also. You did a good video for giving guys an idea of what to look for from the top so one way or the other they can get it done. Also, going from the bottom took me about 1 1/2 hours, start to finish. Next time would be a lot faster because I know what to do now.
Hey! Your video did a good job of explaining your method of removing the starter. I just prefer being able to see what I am doing. It gets frustrating when I cant get bolts to line up when they are out of my sight. Keep up the good work though!
Good job to you also, top or bottom, one way or another we showed them how to do it
+TJinSG ya Honda manual says go from the bottom.
Great video! The other suggestion I found for my issue was a knackered ignition switch...
How easiest to check? Was going to try and give the starter a smack with a hammer but seems hard to get at.
Awesome vid... helped out TONS, only thing I did diff I loostened up the rad support and pulled it fwd on the driver side instead of taking off the hood latch. WTG keep the vids coming!
While you are there, might as well replace the knock sensor, it probably has a check engine light on for it. It is just left of the top bolt of the starter. Thanks for the great video
Helpful vid. just changed mine today. Went smooth. Took 2 hours or so.
I dig your style man; I love working on my car but I hate layin' face up underneath the thing. I've got an '06 myself with an intermittent no-start problem, sounds just like a dead battery when it won't start, but if I turn it off and try it again right away, lo and behold, crank-crank-go no problem. Dead batteries don't just come back to life like that, so it looks like this is gonna be my Saturday probably.
Just thought I should mention, since some of your viewers might not be as sharp as you are... If you use this method be REALLY careful not to drop anything down into the intake side of the engine, lest you turn your $100 starter project into a $2000 engine replacement. One would think nobody's crazy enough to try to replace the starter in their car if they don't know the basics of the engine's operation. I used to work with a kid who managed to rip his '94 altima apart far enough to see the starter, then he couldn't get one of the bolts loose so he called me, I went over and spent two hours replacing the starter, snapping everything back together and whatnot. Meanwhile, the chit-chat between us turned into a lesson for him on what an engine actually does with gasoline to turn it into kinetic energy. Now he understands why dropping a bolt into the engine will cause it to have a very bad day.
This is a great video, thanks a bunch for your help, man, keep JerryRiggin'!
Will Mowson Awesome tips man, Thanks for taking the time to write it up. I should definitely have mentioned keeping those holes clean, and clear of debris or parts. Ive seen guys stuff the holes with shop rags to keep things out of the engine. That might be smart as well, as long as you don't lose the shop rag down the hole as well.
Hey thanks, after two months of occasional hard starts, mine ended up being a dead battery. It turns out these cars kill batteries in a real weird way. I was ready to replace the starter but thursday morning it just said no, but with a jump from my neighbor it cranked right up, so I slammed a quick battery into it and we're back to crank-crank-go.
Thanks again for the help, awesome technique; I'm sure the starter isn't far out on this one anyhow, after all it's got 232,000 miles on it..
Really helpful and complete description helped me to find all the 'hidden' hoses and plugs. thanks for taking the time to make the video...
Excellent video. Only one I needed to get the job done.
Had to change mine today in my fiances 2005 crv SE. One tip for anyone going to attempt this.. be cautions while putting in the air intake manifold back into its spot, the small butt connector that plugs into the starter can unplug and if you dont catch it and you put it all back together , its gonna suck to try to fit your hand in there to plug it in. I know first hand
Just finished my '02 Cr-V. You inspired me to go from above instead of underneath -- it was not that difficult. The '02 still has cables to the throttle body, so I just removed it and set it behind the engine. I never removed the battery - it wasn't in the way. You have to kind of muscle the intake manifold out, but it will come out. Took me about 2 hrs total - I don't know how anyone gets the starter out from below.
+Bob Lemke According to the official Honda CRV shop manual it can be taken out from below. That is why that top bolt is extra long
Thank you brother for taking the time to pass this on to the diy comunity. Now I can fix my little girl's crv. Thumbs up!
+calevel florida No problem man! Glad I could help out!
Thank you for this! Saved me from paying a mechanic to do it. Extremely helpful!!
This video saved me a minimum of $600. Very easy to follow. Thank you
I'm looking at a $475 bill for my 2003 CRV. :-(
This vid is for an auto trans, fyi. Manual process is only slightly different, but, more importantly, the actual starter motor for the manual is different. I bought one on Amazon after watching this, and didn’t know it was the wrong one until I got my intake out and saw. Amazon incorrectly said the starter mentioned in this video was compatible with a manual engine.
Right on, thank you. Very straightforward. Dealership quoted me $1400 CDN before tax!
Removing the intake manifold from the compartment is a bugger. I could not do it without stressing the radiator hose. I feared breaking the upper radiator hose flange, since it is plastic. I had to remove the top radiator hose. With it in place I could not remove the intake manifold. Trust me, taking the radiator hose off will make your life easier, even though you have to deal with the antifreeze issue.
I needed a cheater bar on my ratchet to break loose the two bolts holding the starter in place. Be prepared for that.
Upon assembling, I had overlooked the reconnection to the Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Control Curcuit on the far left below the intake manifold. That caused the Check Engine Light to come on. Don't forget that connection. It's easy to overlook because it is out of sight.
I probably will never be in this situation where I need to do something mechanical like that, but I still watch your videos because they are interesting. Good job!
Well thanks for watching! I am glad you like them.
This was a big help, Thanks. I got by with just installing the brush-rebuild kit from Amazon for $25.
Thanks for the great video. I just did this today on my '06 CR-V.
This helped a lot but you really should've shown how you got the manifold out plus your vehicle doesn't seem to have a oil leak like most crv's tend to have so a lot of your hoses weren't nearly glued from the outside.
Thanks for this!! Getting the damn intake manifold out of that small space was a challenge and a half! Saved a bunch of money though!
Hi Jerry,
Great video :-) i also had to replace my starter motor ... And your video was a great help ! the step by step guide was great and i was able to get it all in and out in 3-4 hrs(it rained while i was doing it in the driveway) the starter bolts were the hardest to remove but got there in the end :-)
Thanks again for a great video !!!