Finally someone speaks up on the ARP shenanigans. It feels like every kit they offer requires modification. Like my straight 6 Jeep motors, main cap studs (too short), head studs (too short) & (nut size requires clearance work done to the valve cover).
Haha polish the crap out of the mating surface and use a wicked slick lube ,as a half-ass crutch for no washer. That's if it'll give enough engagement like it needs. T'was just a brainfart I had.
Ohh man Dulcich, I felt your frustration @ "you have to make the bolt the right length..............." I heard in in your voice, I saw it in your eyes, and I agree 100%! Being a CNC machinist I deal with this shit ALL the damn time. Some jack-wad engineer will tell me "you only need 1 times diameter thread engagement". And, I'm always like "listen here jack-wad! You practice in your books and on your computer. I'm in the real world doing this shit. I'll tell you what does and doesn't work, because I have proven it in practice".
Engineering isn’t about making something indestructible. It’s about making something that just barely works good enough. Cars are built to a factor of safety of, what.. 2.5 to 3? Airplanes are built to a FOS of 1.01. Proper maintenance and assembly is key. If that engine has had the exact proper torque applied to that fastener every single time, it will absolutely work as engineered. The problem is that it probably hasn’t.
Amen bro, tolerances are there for a reason, its the extra tip for fate....as an engineer you don't just make it to spec, you 'expect' it to need just a bit more, well, because of Murphys law.
@@jutde Like I said, the real world, and a book or degree are two very different things. I have some very expensive ($2,000/ea, 20 of them) CNC machine vises. The fixed jaws are held down over dowel pins with 1/2-13 cap-screws. Slightly less than one diameter thread engagement. They absolutely will not stay tight. I am constantly having to re-torque. Call the maker on it? They cite "proper engineering techniques". The problem is: their "proper engineering techniques" leave out a whole lot of variables. I have already modified a few of them to double the thread depth. Guess which ones stay tight now! Steve cited all the variables ARP carelessly disregarded when the length of those head-bolts was finalized. Engineering be damned, if it doesn't work, it doesn't work. In my 30 years as a CNC machinist you would not believe the number of engineering fails I have had to fix that were "to the book". A huge percentage of which always seem to be faster related.
I thought the same thing. Tell I stuck the bolt through the head and found out the after market head were thinner from the top to bottom deck then the factory cast iron. The after market bolt had about same amount of threads sticking out of the after market head as the factory bolt in the factory head. I got lucky because the block was zero decked and heads were milled. For sure the factory bolts would of bottom out in the blind holes. The bolts would have been torqued ageist the bottom of the blind hole. So when ever I'm messing with deck height, milling heads, head gasket thickness and even mounting after market heads, I just use studs. If I can't use studs, I screw the bolts into the blind holes and check the height for gasket quench / torque clearance. PS I had this happen about 30 years ago and the motor was not a mopar.
DULCHECH YOU'RE MY HERO!! Just stop making everything look so easy lol. When are you and lucky going to make you're own show? You two are the chillest and you 2 seem to know anything and everything it would be sick!
Most engineers (especially the newest) are based on "It works on paper " and don't have practical real world experience... at least that's been my experience for the last 30 years.
@@AnDrEw122100 I know, my company waits for me to work things out, then our engineer draws it. So I've been sending all the tech support phone calls to the engineer, they cant answer the questions and then I have to troubleshoot the problems over the phone.. 30 years of experience can't be taught in school.
Hello Steve, I wanted to let you know how much I (and I'm certain others) appreciate your sharing of your knowledge and experiences on engine and vehicle prep. This is an example of your depth of knowledge and practical experience and will serve the community well. It's not that I (or you) think poorly of ARP, but insufficient engineering/production quality can cause damage or failure of an engine and not everyone (including myself) can afford engine/component failure(s). Thanks Again, Bob J
LOL hes using the wrong fucking bolts for his application.. they are made for thinner heads and inconsistent hole depths..he needs arp studs.. guy is just not thinking and upset. On his build stock bolts work fine anyway..those bolts are for extreme hp application.
Cripes, I guess I'm not the only one that has notice this and had the same concerns. I think their studs are also too short going into the block on these old engines and aluminum blocks. The after market world has always been an iffy deal. I've been pulling on wrenches for over 55 years and avoid after market as much as I can. Now with the Chinese making even cheaper crap......... it won't be long till the whole hobby is pretty much destroyed.
I agree Steve . That's why I also use grade 8 bolts, nuts and washers from Fastenal because they are the correct length and take a lot of pressure in tests and are great quality and they have that gold looking anti rust coating great for areas around high temps involving water like water pump or exhaust manifold or header bolts . if they are a little too long I measure and cut them off. I have the grade 8 fasteners on my mopar for the suspension parts ect . I don't use them for head bolts but for others areas on the motor . it's another cheap way to dress up an engine I've put together
You proved a very solid point I’d never realize till now. That would make me question those for ANY APPLICATION. if possible I think I’d rather look for NOS FACTORY head bolts if anything.
The Dodge and Ford boys both feel the pain on this. I had the same problem on my Ford 429 intake bolts - too short. So I spent extra to buy an assortment of longer ones from ARP to make it work. (the short bolt did partially strip the threads in the head)
Excellent point. This sounds like a job for Heli-Coils. Installed correctly, they will never give a problem. Some people do not install according to instructions hence you hear of people complaining how they back out. One nice feature of a Heli-Coil is that they can be stacked for threads with long engagement in case you only have slightly shorter ones in your inventory and trimming them is simple with a good pair of dykes. I was taught back in the '60s that 2 full threads of Heli-Coil allow for full torque to be applied. Would I do that? Not if I have my druthers.
You don't register the crowing after about a month. Usually, the crowing is because you have more than one rooster in the hen house, so they feel a need to fight each other all day long. It also makes it hard to get the eggs, because feisty roosters like to try to spur you, so you have to kick them away several times - because spurring hurts. This is the kind of knowledge you get growing up on a farm.
Love the content. Building a 468 big block at home right now. I generally head toward name brand stuff like ARP when it comes to things like hardware. Cause you know the name and you know they’re good. Video goes to show you that you still should pony up on information and not just accept this and that as fact just because it’s what the general public “recommends”. Just cause it works for this guy or that guy doesn’t mean it’s right!!
On my 440, the threaded depth was inconsistent on the bottom row of holes. Maybe ARP wants to be sure none of the bolts are too long for any of the Big Blocks? Found that out when I was installing ARP head studs
Great Tech Video Steve, I've ran into this many times over the years of building engines. In racing engines, I've had to go to studs to get the correct thread length, and even for street engines. Thread length is something most people over look and videos like this, at least make them aware of the Issue. JMRacing Engines
Hi mate, hey I use Caterpillar Machine bolts , super high tensile in what ever size you want. Ive literally put bottom ends together in reasonable horse power applications.
I hear ya Dulcich, you make a good point. I come across issues like this every now and again. Sometimes common sense is better than an engineering degree. Keep up the good work.
I've seen this with more and more bolt manufactures that makes sae bolts. They have started to make the length in a wierd measuring unit called metric 🙈 it really messes up everything. I find my self cutting about 1/8" or so off of bolts that bottoming out all the time now and the next size down is to short for proper thread engagement.. Proper sae bolts is getting harder and harder to find! Pretty soon I'm expecting them all to be made from chinesium😥
I dig Steve Dulcich and his priorities. He's so much like Me! "Not- good - enough - for me, for this motor." Meanwhile In the background is a step ladder on top of Tractor Supply staging clearly there to reach the mezzanine just waiting to kill someone. 😂🤣
I love that you are telling it how it is. Way too many people are constantly kissing ARP's ass and thinking everything they make is gold. Great video Dulcich!
You are correct! Their Engineering is wrong. Issues with the Ford bolts also. Main bolts head interference issue on Mopar. I expect better from ARP. I am thinking they do not care. Torque plate a 440 and you will appreciate the Torque. Cylinders are all over the place. Great content, thank you. EM
You hit the nail on the head and I would be pissed with the short bolts also.. I just had engine failure at 90 MPH in my boat. New engine new build Dart block Dart heads with all top name brand parts. Well turns out Crower doesnt make rocker arm adjusters they get them from China. They are stamped Crower and I had 2 break off flush at the pedestal stud..! Needless to say the lash caps flew out and down the drain holes so I had to take the engine out and all apart to get them out. Fun times. I went with ARP head studs because Im running a blower and had head creep with bolts.
Yeah you should set your camera up in the film whenever you put the six pack on it dial in the carburetors everybody’s always want to know more and more about that stuff have fun can’t wait for the next one
Mr. Dulcich, I just got a " like" to my comment. I've never got one before , so I'm guessing that you read it and agreed with me and for that , I thank you. Now,... once again, I agree , ....better than a degree. Love ya man, keep up the good work! Your forever fan Phillip the third.
Tell them how it is brother! ARP get your sheesh together! I like this feedback I hope ARP hears it loud and clear. We pay good money don’t reduce the length to make more profit! 💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼
Dulcich is the man and he's definitely my favorite motortrend personality but man those teeth remind me of Matt Dillon in "there's something about mary" lol
Ha. If I were there I would be trying not to crack a smile and as a result feel the wrath of the Dulcich. Time for an aftermarket bolt showdown Project Farm - HP Farm collab. :-)
Steve check it out on a junk old block throw one head down with ARP with Less thread up against the other head with stock bolts and see if they pull the threads or break
I had the same problem with a set of SBF Edelbrock intake manifold bolts. I pulled the threads out of the head but thankfully there was enough threads left that with longer bolts from the hardware store I got it to work.
Awsome man!! Not only that the whiole song and dance with torque them 3 times before measuring stretch and all that. Ive used them but i dont trust them they have 4 different torque settings depending on what site you look at.. even the arp site
I often wondered if ARP fasteners were worth buying, now I see this and think, no they aren't if they aren't the correct size. You are right, it doesn't matter if the bolts are stronger if the threads are not engaged properly.
Had the opposite problem with ARP bolts. Had a batch that was slightly longer than the stock ones which was fine everywhere but one spot where the last 1/4 inch would not thread so I had to go down a size since I didnt want to try and clean the gunk from the bottom of the hole.
Hey Dulciched ya know chevy's n fords need the arp, mopar don't. You can re-use all the bolts over n over again with stock stuff. Yep even the crank and rod bolts you know this. By the way that brown Dodge truck of your if it ever needs a new home I'll adopt it.
ARP has failed on the head studs for a Buick turbo regal as well the 4 mid length studs are too long and need a extra washer per stud. They have no desire to change and have been contacted several times.
I agree about ARP. Whenever I order something for Mopar, why do I always have to settle for an allen or 12-point star head, and usually it's about 1/4 the diameter. Just give me the OEM-style 6-point hex head bolt for goodness sake. The base for all their bolts are probably GM applications or something, but because thread pitch is the same and length is kind of the same, not counting shoulder length, they just sell it as Mopar. Sigh!
Steve great video , could you also bring up the fact when torquing anything that adding extensions to torque wrenches changes actual torque ! Can't tell you how many times on utube I've seen guys using 6 inch extension on wrenches !
Yes I agree thread engagement is critical, BUT probably still better than 40-50 year old bolts that have experience who knows what abuse (kinda like that old block😊). If you can’t sleep at night due to that .25 inch of thread loss use thinner grade 8 washers or most would just goto studs...which would probably be overkill in most NA applications. Always a fan and on my rides overkill is just right!
I'd check that ARP doesn't have multiple length kit options for that engine. I know for SBC they have a few diff length head bolt kits because of the 101 flavors of SBC aftermarket heads. Another option may be to spot face the heads a bit deeper, if they have the material.
Been there done that many times pulling threads out with arp bolts don't care for arp bolts always have issues with them twisting bending and breaking.
I tried using a set of ARP intake bolts for my 454 and they wouldn't even start to thread in on half the mounting holes and the ones that did only went in about 2 turns before running our of thread. Had to get some grade 8s from the bolt store that were a half inch longer and I still had thread to spare in the head.
We used to have a saying in our shop concerning "new" parts, will they always work? Not necessarily we said new stands for "never ever worked". Out of the box there is no guarantee that it will work. ,
Should they have full engagement yes! But my problem is once those bolts get torqued and they stretch that thread engagement more than likely will be just fine to run. Also with how he talks about the block being very old, you could just tap and dye the thread of the bolt for maximum engagement.
I think the point of the washer is to deform and give good contact between the the bolt head and the surface being bolted in case the surfaces aren't perfectly flat.
I noticed this building my 318 the only reason I could think of is on aluminum heads maybe the seat height is shorter? I don't know all I had was factory iron heads.
I loved this tip, 99% sure any block I touch isn't going to boast the 180k psi tensile strength of the upgraded hardware that might get tossed into it.
Even the chicken's in the back ground are "pissed" at you "ARP" !
The chickens aren't but the rooster is.
The smart guys in the VW crowd stay away from arp and go raceware.
ARP, you have been Dulciched. Do it right or don't do it at all!
Steve thank you for starting this channel. Since they cancelled Roadkill Extra we need this to get our Dulcich content! And wisdom!
They cancelled roadkill xtra? 😳 I was wondering what happened to them 😩
Give’m hell Steve..... I totally agree with you especially after you pay good money for something that’s suppose to be top of the line
Finally someone speaks up on the ARP shenanigans. It feels like every kit they offer requires modification. Like my straight 6 Jeep motors, main cap studs (too short), head studs (too short) & (nut size requires clearance work done to the valve cover).
This Engineer completely agrees. FULL THREAD ENGAGEMENT!!!!
Haha polish the crap out of the mating surface and use a wicked slick lube ,as a half-ass crutch for no washer.
That's if it'll give enough engagement like it needs.
T'was just a brainfart I had.
Dulcich is the real deal. Freiburger gets really amazing cars built, Steve builds a place to build amazing cars!
Respect.
That rooster in the background is having a Valentine’s Day of his own. 😂
That rooster made my dog go nuts.... Lol 😂
Need more of the Dulcich. Can't let this info go to waste my man!
Well I tryed to be first
You know Steve is not pleased when repeatedly throwing the same bolt down over and over, harder and harder . lol
Details like this are only found by the BEST mechanical / engineering people!!! Great video.....!!
Ohh man Dulcich, I felt your frustration @ "you have to make the bolt the right length..............." I heard in in your voice, I saw it in your eyes, and I agree 100%!
Being a CNC machinist I deal with this shit ALL the damn time. Some jack-wad engineer will tell me "you only need 1 times diameter thread engagement". And, I'm always like "listen here jack-wad! You practice in your books and on your computer. I'm in the real world doing this shit. I'll tell you what does and doesn't work, because I have proven it in practice".
Engineering isn’t about making something indestructible. It’s about making something that just barely works good enough. Cars are built to a factor of safety of, what.. 2.5 to 3? Airplanes are built to a FOS of 1.01. Proper maintenance and assembly is key. If that engine has had the exact proper torque applied to that fastener every single time, it will absolutely work as engineered. The problem is that it probably hasn’t.
Amen bro, tolerances are there for a reason, its the extra tip for fate....as an engineer you don't just make it to spec, you 'expect' it to need just a bit more, well, because of Murphys law.
@@jutde Like I said, the real world, and a book or degree are two very different things. I have some very expensive ($2,000/ea, 20 of them) CNC machine vises. The fixed jaws are held down over dowel pins with 1/2-13 cap-screws. Slightly less than one diameter thread engagement. They absolutely will not stay tight. I am constantly having to re-torque. Call the maker on it? They cite "proper engineering techniques". The problem is: their "proper engineering techniques" leave out a whole lot of variables. I have already modified a few of them to double the thread depth. Guess which ones stay tight now! Steve cited all the variables ARP carelessly disregarded when the length of those head-bolts was finalized. Engineering be damned, if it doesn't work, it doesn't work. In my 30 years as a CNC machinist you would not believe the number of engineering fails I have had to fix that were "to the book". A huge percentage of which always seem to be faster related.
"In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they aren't."
Author unknown (but Genius)
Right on Steve and I dig the ladder on the scaffolding.
I agree Steve. ARP quality is fantastic, but proper length is important too.
I thought the same thing. Tell I stuck the bolt through the head and found out the after market head were thinner from the top to bottom deck then the factory cast iron. The after market bolt had about same amount of threads sticking out of the after market head as the factory bolt in the factory head. I got lucky because the block was zero decked and heads were milled. For sure the factory bolts would of bottom out in the blind holes. The bolts would have been torqued ageist the bottom of the blind hole. So when ever I'm messing with deck height, milling heads, head gasket thickness and even mounting after market heads, I just use studs. If I can't use studs, I screw the bolts into the blind holes and check the height for gasket quench / torque clearance. PS I had this happen about 30 years ago and the motor was not a mopar.
DULCHECH YOU'RE MY HERO!! Just stop making everything look so easy lol. When are you and lucky going to make you're own show? You two are the chillest and you 2 seem to know anything and everything it would be sick!
He makes a good counterbalance for the high strung Furburger.
Most engineers (especially the newest) are based on "It works on paper " and don't have practical real world experience... at least that's been my experience for the last 30 years.
It’s getting worse too.
@@AnDrEw122100 I know, my company waits for me to work things out, then our engineer draws it. So I've been sending all the tech support phone calls to the engineer, they cant answer the questions and then I have to troubleshoot the problems over the phone.. 30 years of experience can't be taught in school.
Facts. Especially the 30 year old ones
More like, "it works on the computer" nowdays.
@@mikehagen3785 50+ years of experience is taught at SAM TECH down in Houston. Best decision I made to attend school and graduate from there.
This is golden honesty.
Hello Steve,
I wanted to let you know how much I (and I'm certain others) appreciate your sharing of your knowledge and experiences on engine and vehicle prep. This is an example of your depth of knowledge and practical experience and will serve the community well. It's not that I (or you) think poorly of ARP, but insufficient engineering/production quality can cause damage or failure of an engine and not everyone (including myself) can afford engine/component failure(s).
Thanks Again,
Bob J
LOL hes using the wrong fucking bolts for his application.. they are made for thinner heads and inconsistent hole depths..he needs arp studs.. guy is just not thinking and upset. On his build stock bolts work fine anyway..those bolts are for extreme hp application.
Cripes, I guess I'm not the only one that has notice this and had the same concerns. I think their studs are also too short going into the block on these old engines and aluminum blocks. The after market world has always been an iffy deal. I've been pulling on wrenches for over 55 years and avoid after market as much as I can. Now with the Chinese making even cheaper crap......... it won't be long till the whole hobby is pretty much destroyed.
I agree Steve . That's why I also use grade 8 bolts, nuts and washers from Fastenal because they are the correct length and take a lot of pressure in tests and are great quality and they have that gold looking anti rust coating great for areas around high temps involving water like water pump or exhaust manifold or header bolts . if they are a little too long I measure and cut them off. I have the grade 8 fasteners on my mopar for the suspension parts ect . I don't use them for head bolts but for others areas on the motor . it's another cheap way to dress up an engine I've put together
Excellent advice!
The factory head bolts are great too but like he said the bold head is too big for some aftermarket heads so you have to use the small head bolts
I'll always go with Steve Dulcich on anything Mopar. You tell 'em where it's at Steve!
Steve you’re a beast! Love it! Thanks for preaching / explaining common sense!
I love these regular videos. Keep them coming. Keep showing us the projects you are working on around the farm. Whatever they may be.
You proved a very solid point I’d never realize till now. That would make me question those for ANY APPLICATION. if possible I think I’d rather look for NOS FACTORY head bolts if anything.
The Dodge and Ford boys both feel the pain on this. I had the same problem on my Ford 429 intake bolts - too short. So I spent extra to buy an assortment of longer ones from ARP to make it work. (the short bolt did partially strip the threads in the head)
I wonder if short bolts prompted this vid, lol. Good show Steve! I hear you, can’t trust much anymore. Good to call them out! Stay safe brother
You could tell he was pissed by how many times he picked up the bolts just to throw them back in the box. I totally agree Steve!!
Excellent point. This sounds like a job for Heli-Coils. Installed correctly, they will never give a problem. Some people do not install according to instructions hence you hear of people complaining how they back out. One nice feature of a Heli-Coil is that they can be stacked for threads with long engagement in case you only have slightly shorter ones in your inventory and trimming them is simple with a good pair of dykes. I was taught back in the '60s that 2 full threads of Heli-Coil allow for full torque to be applied. Would I do that? Not if I have my druthers.
So excited you started your own channel sir. Huuuuge fan of yours!!
Hey Steve, just weld those bolts up uncle tony style. Sometimes you guys clown around but you know the difference!
Love the content....Not so sure about Steve's hair.....
Have never checked like you did. Also, have never had an ARP bolt fail, or contribute to failure. Great video...
Holy shit I'd go nuts having to hear those roosters.
These are great, Steve. Make sure not to burn yourself out by doing them daily
Roosters do drive you nuts thats why I only keep hens. Its so much more peaceful. I dont need roosters anyway the hens lay just fine with out them.
You don't register the crowing after about a month. Usually, the crowing is because you have more than one rooster in the hen house, so they feel a need to fight each other all day long. It also makes it hard to get the eggs, because feisty roosters like to try to spur you, so you have to kick them away several times - because spurring hurts. This is the kind of knowledge you get growing up on a farm.
Good info Steve! I love it when people call out bs in the aftermarket!
Love the content. Building a 468 big block at home right now. I generally head toward name brand stuff like ARP when it comes to things like hardware. Cause you know the name and you know they’re good. Video goes to show you that you still should pony up on information and not just accept this and that as fact just because it’s what the general public “recommends”. Just cause it works for this guy or that guy doesn’t mean it’s right!!
On my 440, the threaded depth was inconsistent on the bottom row of holes. Maybe ARP wants to be sure none of the bolts are too long for any of the Big Blocks? Found that out when I was installing ARP head studs
Great Tech Video Steve, I've ran into this many times over the years of building engines. In racing engines, I've had to go to studs to get the correct thread length, and even for street engines. Thread length is something most people over look and videos like this, at least make them aware of the Issue. JMRacing Engines
Hi mate, hey I use Caterpillar Machine bolts , super high tensile in what ever size you want. Ive literally put bottom ends together in reasonable horse power applications.
I hear ya Dulcich, you make a good point. I come across issues like this every now and again.
Sometimes common sense is better than an engineering degree.
Keep up the good work.
Excellent video. I see a 1969 Corvette back in the garage.
I've seen this with more and more bolt manufactures that makes sae bolts. They have started to make the length in a wierd measuring unit called metric 🙈 it really messes up everything. I find my self cutting about 1/8" or so off of bolts that bottoming out all the time now and the next size down is to short for proper thread engagement.. Proper sae bolts is getting harder and harder to find! Pretty soon I'm expecting them all to be made from chinesium😥
I dig Steve Dulcich and his priorities. He's so much like Me!
"Not- good - enough - for me, for this motor."
Meanwhile In the background is a step ladder on top of Tractor Supply staging clearly there to reach the mezzanine just waiting to kill someone. 😂🤣
Dulcich has a channel?!! Immediately subscribed before I even watched the video!
I love that you are telling it how it is. Way too many people are constantly kissing ARP's ass and thinking everything they make is gold. Great video Dulcich!
You are correct!
Their Engineering is wrong.
Issues with the Ford bolts also.
Main bolts head interference issue on Mopar.
I expect better from ARP.
I am thinking they do not care.
Torque plate a 440 and you will appreciate the Torque.
Cylinders are all over the place.
Great content, thank you. EM
That ladder on the scaffold is top notch.
Really making me rethink using the ARP head bolts that came with my $125 451 Stroker (I only needed the heads for my mild 383 I’m building)
The roosters weren’t happy about them either.
They clearly gave a cluck.
MORE DULCICH!! MORE. Love to watch all your videos!
You hit the nail on the head and I would be pissed with the short bolts also.. I just had engine failure at 90 MPH in my boat. New engine new build Dart block Dart heads with all top name brand parts. Well turns out Crower doesnt make rocker arm adjusters they get them from China. They are stamped Crower and I had 2 break off flush at the pedestal stud..! Needless to say the lash caps flew out and down the drain holes so I had to take the engine out and all apart to get them out. Fun times. I went with ARP head studs because Im running a blower and had head creep with bolts.
I love this guy's content and his garage looks similar to mine right down to the T handle set !
I'm all looking around my house while watching Steve thinking what is that faint noise?!?!?!?! It's Steves chickens! Lol
Great point in the video. I am sure OSHA approves of the A frame ladder on top of your scaffold in the background... 😂
Probably made for gm or something else and repacked in a mopar kit.
Nice catch Steve, I'd probably never even had checked myself... but I will now! 👍
Yeah you should set your camera up in the film whenever you put the six pack on it dial in the carburetors everybody’s always want to know more and more about that stuff have fun can’t wait for the next one
Mr. Dulcich,
I just got a " like" to my comment. I've never got one before , so I'm guessing that you read it and agreed with me and for that , I thank you.
Now,... once again, I agree ,
....better than a degree.
Love ya man, keep up the good work!
Your forever fan
Phillip the third.
Very good to note that new isn't always as good or better than stock. Wise words, they really should make the bolts the proper length.
Agreed. More thread engagement is what you want. I definitely would feel more comfortable with 16 threads over 12.
Good comment on the stock bolt's. 40 yrs ago we had no choice.
Tell them how it is brother! ARP get your sheesh together! I like this feedback I hope ARP hears it loud and clear. We pay good money don’t reduce the length to make more profit! 💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼
The roosters in the background gave this the appropriate Dulcich touch
What's your favorite Mopar youtube channel, and why is it JustMoparjoe? Thanks for the tech tips Steve! I've quoted you before in my builds for sure.
I had to do the same thing. Like Steve said, "You can almost feel the threads pulling out."
Steve with the new teeth
Dulcich is the man and he's definitely my favorite motortrend personality but man those teeth remind me of Matt Dillon in "there's something about mary" lol
I thought something was different. 👍
Steve’s livin his best life🤘🏼
Ha. If I were there I would be trying not to crack a smile and as a result feel the wrath of the Dulcich. Time for an aftermarket bolt showdown Project Farm - HP Farm collab. :-)
Steve check it out on a junk old block throw one head down with ARP with Less thread up against the other head with stock bolts and see if they pull the threads or break
I had the same problem with a set of SBF Edelbrock intake manifold bolts. I pulled the threads out of the head but thankfully there was enough threads left that with longer bolts from the hardware store I got it to work.
Awsome man!! Not only that the whiole song and dance with torque them 3 times before measuring stretch and all that. Ive used them but i dont trust them they have 4 different torque settings depending on what site you look at.. even the arp site
I often wondered if ARP fasteners were worth buying, now I see this and think, no they aren't if they aren't the correct size. You are right, it doesn't matter if the bolts are stronger if the threads are not engaged properly.
i love the bolt slammm!
Had the opposite problem with ARP bolts. Had a batch that was slightly longer than the stock ones which was fine everywhere but one spot where the last 1/4 inch would not thread so I had to go down a size since I didnt want to try and clean the gunk from the bottom of the hole.
Hey Dulciched ya know chevy's n fords need the arp, mopar don't. You can re-use all the bolts over n over again with stock stuff. Yep even the crank and rod bolts you know this. By the way that brown Dodge truck of your if it ever needs a new home I'll adopt it.
ARP has failed on the head studs for a Buick turbo regal as well the 4 mid length studs are too long and need a extra washer per stud. They have no desire to change and have been contacted several times.
Why is it I just now discovered Dulcich has a TH-cam channel? Immediately subscribed.
The Man, The Myth, The Legend Himself; Mr. Steve Dulcich..🍻🍻🍺🍺
Wait... Wait... is that Freiburger and Finnegan crowing in the background???
Hey Steve, keep up the good work! Really enjoy your post!
love the videos cant wait to see the orange duster one day but them choppers are white haha
I agree about ARP. Whenever I order something for Mopar, why do I always have to settle for an allen or 12-point star head, and usually it's about 1/4 the diameter. Just give me the OEM-style 6-point hex head bolt for goodness sake. The base for all their bolts are probably GM applications or something, but because thread pitch is the same and length is kind of the same, not counting shoulder length, they just sell it as Mopar. Sigh!
Only as strong as weakest link. Need the thread engagement. 100% agree.
Tour of the shop building please!
That’s a rare block with those bosses on the front for a factory a-body motor mount. I’ve been looking for one of those for awhile!
Steve great video , could you also bring up the fact when torquing anything that adding extensions to torque wrenches changes actual torque ! Can't tell you how many times on utube I've seen guys using 6 inch extension on wrenches !
ive been using pro comp head and main studs!! they work great on my bbc in my nova!👍😉🖖
Studs are the only way to go for full thread engagement!
Yes I agree thread engagement is critical, BUT probably still better than 40-50 year old bolts that have experience who knows what abuse (kinda like that old block😊). If you can’t sleep at night due to that .25 inch of thread loss use thinner grade 8 washers or most would just goto studs...which would probably be overkill in most NA applications. Always a fan and on my rides overkill is just right!
Right on Steve...💯👍
I'd check that ARP doesn't have multiple length kit options for that engine. I know for SBC they have a few diff length head bolt kits because of the 101 flavors of SBC aftermarket heads. Another option may be to spot face the heads a bit deeper, if they have the material.
Been there done that many times pulling threads out with arp bolts don't care for arp bolts always have issues with them twisting bending and breaking.
well stated ! Studs?
I tried using a set of ARP intake bolts for my 454 and they wouldn't even start to thread in on half the mounting holes and the ones that did only went in about 2 turns before running our of thread. Had to get some grade 8s from the bolt store that were a half inch longer and I still had thread to spare in the head.
We used to have a saying in our shop concerning "new" parts, will they always work? Not necessarily we said new stands for "never ever worked". Out of the box there is no guarantee that it will work. ,
Holy Crap , I need to check if the Mopar SB boltkit is the same .
The rooster enriched cacophony of insufficient clamping potential. XD
Should they have full engagement yes! But my problem is once those bolts get torqued and they stretch that thread engagement more than likely will be just fine to run. Also with how he talks about the block being very old, you could just tap and dye the thread of the bolt for maximum engagement.
I think the point of the washer is to deform and give good contact between the the bolt head and the surface being bolted in case the surfaces aren't perfectly flat.
I noticed this building my 318 the only reason I could think of is on aluminum heads maybe the seat height is shorter? I don't know all I had was factory iron heads.
No, just built a 360 dodge with pro-max al.heads seat height same to the fraction...
I loved this tip, 99% sure any block I touch isn't going to boast the 180k psi tensile strength of the upgraded hardware that might get tossed into it.
Steve all love but maybe studs? I have used studs in both of my old cars