Top tip when working with resin printing: If you are doing a small part like that which can fit multiples on the build plate do lots of different tolerances on the same print as it'll take the same amount of time to print but a lot less time for you overall. Granted this method uses a bit more resin but you've already proved how cheap it is on the video!
Also using a resin printer for more functional parts you might want to try adding like a syratech Tenacity resin into the mix. It makes the resin a lot less brittle even at like a 10% mix. A 100% mix gives you an almost injection molded sheer on it which might be better for the sliding in piece made here. There are even some new crazy resins out there made out of used tires that act like full blown vulcanized rubber. I think Goodyear actually had a go at making it. Warning your house will smell like burnt tires when using... One more tip, resin printers hate flat surfaces parallel to the build plate like what happened on your first print. Angle it at 45% and you will generally have a perfect print on your first go.
You know Morley is a real engineer when he spends hours building a solution in Fusion360 and resin printing instead of spending 2 seconds using adhesive velcro.
When doing resin prints, you should rotate your parts so there's no parallel planes to the build plate... that makes it look good when you're supporting the bottom of your print. Your swelling happens because liquid builds up above your plate as it's getting dipped in/out of the resin. Just a 5-10 degree rotation is enough sometimes.
When printing flat surfaces with resin, its generally best to put the parts at an angle I've found that I get a much more accurate print. I normally do about a 30° angel off the build plate
Most of your projects are for very niche use cases, but this could actually be a really practical print for a lot of people. It's great to see it made available for anyone to print!
Morley, I don’t wanna be that guy off the internet but it looks like you’re handling uncured resin without gloves. Please get yourself some gloves for this stuff, it can be *really* dangerous (only saying because I care!)
People need to be less sensitive about others posting good safety advice. I don't get why some people are such snowflakes who can't handle the idea of safety and other people caring. I don't think this applies to Morley! I hope he receives the tip, it's important
I must Agree... As someone who does exclusively resin printing... You need the nitrile gloves when handling the part before final cure.. and really you need to use a decent mask. Just want you too stay healthy and not become allergic.
another tip for resin printing, i STRONGLY recommend wearing gloves and not touching it until after 10 minutes of post curing, as well as angling your prints and adding supports. flat supported pieces facing the build plate directly will always warp.
With resin printing, you want to tilt the parts. There's calculators to get the exact optimum angle, but 40 to 45 degrees is generally pretty good. Also, you shouldn't touch the uncured resin with your hands. I've heard once it's washed even before curing is OK to touch, but never touch the liquid resin.
The tolerances also may not line up due to over exposure during printing. The exposure time per layer generally needs to be tuned on a resin-to-resin basis for optimal settings, but it is something to keep in mind when experiencing tolerance issues.
This was such a smart solution! I was a bit worries that the magnets would have a stronger connection than the glue but that doesn't seem to be a problem, great video!
Just finished my tiny resin print model in 360 and was ready to go print it when I saw you dropped a new vid! My piece costs $0.034 according to ChituBox
Great video as always! Super excited to see some resin prints! I always try to print flat on the build plate if possible. Adding some chamfers or fillets will make it easier to remove and prevent elephants foot form the longer bottom layer cure times. If you can't print on the build plate, orient the model 45deg and add more supports. This will prevent the entire surface area from pulling on the supports all from a large flat surface. Last I would recommend ABS-like resin. It is much stronger and less brittle for functional parts. Keep the awesome videos coming!
If you did get one of the factory clips maybe try taking a fine grit sandpaper and sand the bottom surface that attaches to the camera. Might free up some clearance.
I don't know what slicer you're using, but I would recommend using lychee slicer, I have used it for a while and does most of the stuff for you like auto orientation + it's easy to make changes to settings
Mechanical resin prints best with softer rubber resin. And flat surfaces always print with an angle. Resin printer make best results with corners at the start of printing.
Happy to hear mm , welcome to our world haha... Amazing video as usual, love it. Have you thought about build a coffee table mixing pallet wood and 3d printed parts/joints? I know you can do it... Keep it up mate👍
I love the DJI mic, but actually don't use the receiver under normal circumstances. I just hang the transmitter off my shirt and start recording from there. I does require me to synchronize the audio with my on camera audio, but that takes seconds :) Really cool design, though. I'll print it for those other cases. I'm thinking ASA :)
You really need to add an angle when you print dimensionally accurate part, the suction of the FEP film will deform the part if you print like you did the first time.
Honestly... never mind 3D Printers or Fusion 360... I've found the real hero in creating stuff like this is a friggin' great set of calipers. Without those, the rest would be useless for things like this.
On my resin printer I try not to have flat surfaces parallel to the build plate because when it pulls out there's a LOT of suction force. If you angle the pieces they're FAR less likely to deform early on and you can use less supports. But also that does tend to deform the shape a little bit.
If you find that you 3d resin prints are too fragile, consider adding some Tenacious to your resin. It's stretchy by itself, but mixed with normal Grey, and ABS-like, it tends to make the parts far less brittle. (like 1:10 mixture Tenacious:Grey) It's what I've used in the past and it makes far more resilient parts for practical use.
Came out great, can you print it using the Bambu lab, I would like to see how it will be the difference between the resin and Bambu lab. Thanks for all your videos
I feel like you should have put the original clip into the shoe before putting the receiver onto the mount. that way what you had happen where you have to push on the receiver to get it to lock in wasn't required. It's probably hinged so you can take the receiver off while leaving the clip in the shoe and fold it down so that it isn't in the way while not in use making it something to leave in shoe when not in use unless you are switching between cameras.
Not trying to start a war resin vs fdm however sorta think fdm would have had less bubbling / look worse but be more functional and less failures though I have had curling on occasion as well. Also cool to try out the new toy.
Another practical, real world video on what you can do with 3D printing. But, I think you are missing some built in costs of your fix. How many hours did you spend learning Fusion360? How much does the resin printer, washer and curing chamber cost? The liquid resin? Practice prints? How much electricity did you use while filming and running all your equipment. How much is the insurance on your new house? Mortgage? Someone once yelled at me to stop saying it took me 5 minutes to sketch something. He said you have to add the years of experience to get to this point. I still love your sensibility on improving an existing product. You know why the manufacturer made the original piece the way they did? Planned obsolescence? Over budget for design. Manufacturing costs to change the injection molds? Who knows. Keep it up!!!
For one off prints, yes. But you might want to adjust and reprint so if you need another one you can just print and it is ready to go without having to sand each part
@@MorleyKert Hey. Out of curiosity. How many hours does it take to make a video like this? In another video you tracked the time to make the project. I'm wondering if you ever track the time to create videos as well. I'm binging you now. Thanks to the algo Gods for showing you to me! haha
Here's a useless fact nobody asked for: the camera flash connector is called the accessory shoe. At first they didn't have any electric function and were for holding only, and when they got the contacts to automate flash firing, well that got called the hot shoe. Same thing without electrical function got retroactively called the cold shoe. So microphone receiver is a cold shoe accessory, not a hot shoe one.
I have a question: what do you do with the filament that was used for the prototype’s? Can it be reused? Also, why is your camera so dirty? I have a guess that it’s because you film around sawdust and other airborne dust but for some reason it bothered me to see the close up of the camera when you were showing the test fit of the pieces you built. Also, random compliment but I love that you wear headbands to keep your hair out of your face while working. It’s adorable!!
Resin is not reusable, you just fully cure it and dispose it. Also one should wear protective gloves and eye protection at least while handling uncured resin.
@@MariusKubilius Thanks for the info. Can you reuse the 3d filament in the 3D printers? I don't get why I have to keep rephrasing this question but I guess I do🤷🏻♀🤷🏻♀.
I love seeing someone using 3d printing to solve problems for really cheap do to crappy engineering and 1 uping the manufacturer. You should copyright that part and try to sell the design to them
@@JasonCrothers he's making good TH-cam content for us all to learn from. just because he can print with a filament printer doesn't mean that its bad to use a resin printer. You experiment with all the options you have available to find out what works best for you. at the same time he's also developing new skills and trying to attract new viewers.
@@joshualiebrecht578 yes and commenting helps support. My question was genuine. Your post seems defensive, I've been wrong before though. I have a filament printer and reproduce things all the time as he does in this video. I don't have a resin printer so I was curious. His response was pretty limited. I could produce something very similar and possibly stronger with my filament printer. My reproduction of what he is creating in this video would be substantially stronger than what he has produced. What really made me raise an eyebrow is even with the high level of detail he had to "alter" it with a knife anyways.... So then I have a bunch of follow-up questions, why didn't he use filament when he has such a sexy printer in the background, is it an issue with that printer alone, would the type of resin change the finished product or does the reproduction design need altering? Lot's of questions on my end.
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Top tip when working with resin printing: If you are doing a small part like that which can fit multiples on the build plate do lots of different tolerances on the same print as it'll take the same amount of time to print but a lot less time for you overall. Granted this method uses a bit more resin but you've already proved how cheap it is on the video!
Good tip, I think it’s hard to get that in your head when you’re used to a filament printer.
Also using a resin printer for more functional parts you might want to try adding like a syratech Tenacity resin into the mix. It makes the resin a lot less brittle even at like a 10% mix. A 100% mix gives you an almost injection molded sheer on it which might be better for the sliding in piece made here.
There are even some new crazy resins out there made out of used tires that act like full blown vulcanized rubber. I think Goodyear actually had a go at making it. Warning your house will smell like burnt tires when using...
One more tip, resin printers hate flat surfaces parallel to the build plate like what happened on your first print. Angle it at 45% and you will generally have a perfect print on your first go.
@@jeremyspecce I'm new: why would it be different for a filament printer?
You have started using the metric system! Wohoo!
Haha indeed! Got myself a pair of metric calipers
This makes me so happy!
You know Morley is a real engineer when he spends hours building a solution in Fusion360 and resin printing instead of spending 2 seconds using adhesive velcro.
or just hitting the print with sandpaper lol
Or just sanding down the piece that was too thick
When doing resin prints, you should rotate your parts so there's no parallel planes to the build plate... that makes it look good when you're supporting the bottom of your print.
Your swelling happens because liquid builds up above your plate as it's getting dipped in/out of the resin. Just a 5-10 degree rotation is enough sometimes.
When printing flat surfaces with resin, its generally best to put the parts at an angle I've found that I get a much more accurate print. I normally do about a 30° angel off the build plate
Most of your projects are for very niche use cases, but this could actually be a really practical print for a lot of people. It's great to see it made available for anyone to print!
Morley, I don’t wanna be that guy off the internet but it looks like you’re handling uncured resin without gloves. Please get yourself some gloves for this stuff, it can be *really* dangerous (only saying because I care!)
This is true, do some research. We aren't the safety police! Haha
People need to be less sensitive about others posting good safety advice. I don't get why some people are such snowflakes who can't handle the idea of safety and other people caring. I don't think this applies to Morley! I hope he receives the tip, it's important
I’m just here for the glove-less handling of Resin comments
I must Agree... As someone who does exclusively resin printing... You need the nitrile gloves when handling the part before final cure.. and really you need to use a decent mask. Just want you too stay healthy and not become allergic.
@@kraftaculousgreekgodofcraf1113 I have resigned to these resin comments.
another tip for resin printing, i STRONGLY recommend wearing gloves and not touching it until after 10 minutes of post curing, as well as angling your prints and adding supports. flat supported pieces facing the build plate directly will always warp.
With resin printing, you want to tilt the parts. There's calculators to get the exact optimum angle, but 40 to 45 degrees is generally pretty good. Also, you shouldn't touch the uncured resin with your hands. I've heard once it's washed even before curing is OK to touch, but never touch the liquid resin.
You have to angle your prints, resin prints need a bit of an angle to print flat surfaces right.
Good to see your process and even better to see you have made it to the 20th century with your metrication!
The tolerances also may not line up due to over exposure during printing. The exposure time per layer generally needs to be tuned on a resin-to-resin basis for optimal settings, but it is something to keep in mind when experiencing tolerance issues.
This was such a smart solution! I was a bit worries that the magnets would have a stronger connection than the glue but that doesn't seem to be a problem, great video!
Morley you have inspired me to be a 3d printer modelist when I’m older ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤ keep going strong and thank you morley thank you so much
As a budding 360 user (Free Cad just didn't satisfy in methodology) I would love to see a video on you tackling those small parts 👍✌🖖🥃
You really should print your pieces at a slight angle to avoid resin buildup and this kind of bowing :) great video :)
Awesome vid. I love watching the process of finding solutions to life's problems.
Thank you!
Yay! Love watching you troubleshoot your print designs.
Just finished my tiny resin print model in 360 and was ready to go print it when I saw you dropped a new vid! My piece costs $0.034 according to ChituBox
Haha awesome!
Making this mount available is awesome. Well done
Love your commitment to get it right after all the hiccups!
Great video as always! Super excited to see some resin prints! I always try to print flat on the build plate if possible. Adding some chamfers or fillets will make it easier to remove and prevent elephants foot form the longer bottom layer cure times. If you can't print on the build plate, orient the model 45deg and add more supports. This will prevent the entire surface area from pulling on the supports all from a large flat surface. Last I would recommend ABS-like resin. It is much stronger and less brittle for functional parts. Keep the awesome videos coming!
Thanks for the tips!
If you did get one of the factory clips maybe try taking a fine grit sandpaper and sand the bottom surface that attaches to the camera. Might free up some clearance.
No lumber was slapped in the making of this video, nice work 😉
Casually scrolls by metal mounts for 15 bucks in his OWN video, actually insane
My heart skipped a beat when you started hammering on your glass stovetop. 😳
Very interesting. I havne't had that problem with the hot shoe mount being too tight. However, if it ever becomes a problem at least it can be fixed!
Hey Morley, I love when you show some fusion design!
I don't know what slicer you're using, but I would recommend using lychee slicer, I have used it for a while and does most of the stuff for you like auto orientation + it's easy to make changes to settings
Great video, although not a great ad for resin printing. I think in this case a good FDM printer will print with better tolerances with less warping.
Mechanical resin prints best with softer rubber resin. And flat surfaces always print with an angle. Resin printer make best results with corners at the start of printing.
Happy that V3 worked for you.
But V2 just needed some persuasion via a dremel manicure.
2:36 in, this is a banger morley! ayeee love the kadence and delivery. way to go brother!
Thanks man!
Nice work!!!.
Please use protection with the resine
Happy to hear mm , welcome to our world haha...
Amazing video as usual, love it.
Have you thought about build a coffee table mixing pallet wood and 3d printed parts/joints?
I know you can do it...
Keep it up mate👍
I love the DJI mic, but actually don't use the receiver under normal circumstances. I just hang the transmitter off my shirt and start recording from there. I does require me to synchronize the audio with my on camera audio, but that takes seconds :)
Really cool design, though. I'll print it for those other cases. I'm thinking ASA :)
Great video. I have noted I'll need to buy a set of DJI mics AND a 3D printer 😁
great video as always, tip clean the saw dust off your camera, no good for the lens.
For time lapse on the resin printers, you might want to get on touch with uncle Jesse. He uses a thing called resin lapse.
I'm glad that your process in fusion360 looks similar to mine. I must be on the right track at least 😂
Only two uses of “Let’s do this,” but the first one made me laugh out loud. :)
You really need to add an angle when you print dimensionally accurate part, the suction of the FEP film will deform the part if you print like you did the first time.
Honestly... never mind 3D Printers or Fusion 360... I've found the real hero in creating stuff like this is a friggin' great set of calipers.
Without those, the rest would be useless for things like this.
To keep costs down, water soluble resin gets rid of the need for all that alcohol in your wash tank.
Once I switched, I will never go back.
On my resin printer I try not to have flat surfaces parallel to the build plate because when it pulls out there's a LOT of suction force. If you angle the pieces they're FAR less likely to deform early on and you can use less supports. But also that does tend to deform the shape a little bit.
If you find that you 3d resin prints are too fragile, consider adding some Tenacious to your resin. It's stretchy by itself, but mixed with normal Grey, and ABS-like, it tends to make the parts far less brittle. (like 1:10 mixture Tenacious:Grey) It's what I've used in the past and it makes far more resilient parts for practical use.
Came out great, can you print it using the Bambu lab, I would like to see how it will be the difference between the resin and Bambu lab.
Thanks for all your videos
I feel like you should have put the original clip into the shoe before putting the receiver onto the mount. that way what you had happen where you have to push on the receiver to get it to lock in wasn't required. It's probably hinged so you can take the receiver off while leaving the clip in the shoe and fold it down so that it isn't in the way while not in use making it something to leave in shoe when not in use unless you are switching between cameras.
You have to print on angles to print properly using resin.
Not trying to start a war resin vs fdm however sorta think fdm would have had less bubbling / look worse but be more functional and less failures though I have had curling on occasion as well. Also cool to try out the new toy.
FDM printing doesnt have the accuracy to do this unless you have a tiny nozzle but at that point resin makes more sense
The glasses look great on you,
Me waiting patiently for another furniture build👀 love the videos!
They're coming! Thanks for watching :)
Great build.
Time spent measuring pieces, designing new parts, R&D, assembly, testing x hourly wage = cost is actually 3,427.23
Resinlapse is a great way to do timelapses. It’s around $20
I'm wondering why you didn't sand down the side original clip slightly? if the fit was that snug, that's like two seconds with some sandpaper, no?
BACK ON DECK
💯
You are a freaken Genius!
!
Good video but for me to learn and enjoy it even more I would like to see it at a speed I can follow so I can do similar work myself.
You should check out some of his older videos, they have a lot of great information in them.
Another excellent project! :)
Man. I'd kill for fusion 360 lessons
Wait wait wait, hold up. When did Morley start using metric?
This video!
@@MorleyKert Welcome to the club!
I'm watching this and hearing you use mm and wondering if there is an imposter. I'm used to not being able to visualize the dimensions you are using.
Lmfao
didn't you missed the round protrusion on the edge of one of the arm of the replica ?
Ahh the dimensional accuracy of the resin prints. Be honest, you chose resin to make it extra difficult didn’t you?
Maybe you should sell those in a small Etsy Store😉
You usually track your time investment when you do your pallet table builds. Did you track your time spent on this project?
Another practical, real world video on what you can do with 3D printing. But, I think you are missing some built in costs of your fix. How many hours did you spend learning Fusion360? How much does the resin printer, washer and curing chamber cost? The liquid resin? Practice prints? How much electricity did you use while filming and running all your equipment. How much is the insurance on your new house? Mortgage? Someone once yelled at me to stop saying it took me 5 minutes to sketch something. He said you have to add the years of experience to get to this point. I still love your sensibility on improving an existing product. You know why the manufacturer made the original piece the way they did? Planned obsolescence? Over budget for design. Manufacturing costs to change the injection molds? Who knows. Keep it up!!!
When you upload files to share, can you please include the fusion CAD file in case we need to modify it?
i thought with resin printers, you really have be cautious of the fumes? i was really nervous about that, but how dangerous is it really?
Hi Morley. Just a stupid question: if you have a tight fit from a piece of plastic, can't you just file it down a bit until you get a satisfying fit?
For one off prints, yes. But you might want to adjust and reprint so if you need another one you can just print and it is ready to go without having to sand each part
You need to look into "Resin lapse" (Uncle Jessy's project with someone else who's name escapes me)
Just make sure your camera is compatible. My Panasonic was not (despite having the right jack)
Millimeters!!!!!!!!1 wild 🙂
Sand paper instead of the blade haha
Hi, did you figure out the fit issue? Was it inaccurate measurement and therefore design or inaccurate printing?
You said ( 1:30 ) the hot shoe was hard to put on the camera, but at 11:20 it slides on? I think you just wanted to make something...
Willing to shave 3D print but not the original when it was super snug
Awesome! Do you think this would work just as well with a PLA print using a normal 3d printer?
I’m not sure! There’s a lot of detail. But it’s worth a try, the model is available for free download in the description!
When you poured all that resin, are you able to save that and put it back in the bottle?
Yep!
@@MorleyKert Awesome. Looked those printers up. Insane level of detail.
@@MorleyKert Hey. Out of curiosity. How many hours does it take to make a video like this? In another video you tracked the time to make the project. I'm wondering if you ever track the time to create videos as well. I'm binging you now. Thanks to the algo Gods for showing you to me! haha
@@peta23 It's hard to say as I don't rigorously track my video production time, but I would say just the editing for this video was about 6-8 hours.
@@MorleyKert Makes sense. Really good quality. Are you doing it all yourself, or do you outsource to save time, then clean it up with your own style?
Here's a useless fact nobody asked for: the camera flash connector is called the accessory shoe. At first they didn't have any electric function and were for holding only, and when they got the contacts to automate flash firing, well that got called the hot shoe. Same thing without electrical function got retroactively called the cold shoe.
So microphone receiver is a cold shoe accessory, not a hot shoe one.
I have a question: what do you do with the filament that was used for the prototype’s? Can it be reused? Also, why is your camera so dirty? I have a guess that it’s because you film around sawdust and other airborne dust but for some reason it bothered me to see the close up of the camera when you were showing the test fit of the pieces you built. Also, random compliment but I love that you wear headbands to keep your hair out of your face while working. It’s adorable!!
Resin is not reusable, you just fully cure it and dispose it. Also one should wear protective gloves and eye protection at least while handling uncured resin.
@@MariusKubilius Bummer about it not being reusable. I agree about wearing PPE though. Morley, please wear eye protection if you don't already!
@@MariusKubilius Is the filament used in 3D printing the same as resin? I should have specified I meant the 3D filament.
@@UKcomedyfan28 no different things
@@MariusKubilius Thanks for the info. Can you reuse the 3d filament in the 3D printers? I don't get why I have to keep rephrasing this question but I guess I do🤷🏻♀🤷🏻♀.
Is the metal on the shoe a magnetic material?
I’m not sure! I think it’s for powering a flash
Hit that like button - sincerelyerey 420.. wait i mean 430.. dollar gadget
Morley, that the Prusa XL?
I feel that its still unfinished the magnet is too weak and dont hold the thing on top. :)
69 my playa, 69... print a big 'ol 69 symbol out of your printer morley.. lemme know what color you choose to print it out of.
total perfect don-ebro~😊
I love seeing someone using 3d printing to solve problems for really cheap do to crappy engineering and 1 uping the manufacturer. You should copyright that part and try to sell the design to them
Bro clean that camera! holy cow
let'''''s goooooooo!
1:29 that what she said
Good try. Your resin printing needs some improvements, and I believe that part that clicks into the camera is not gonna last long. Good vid anyways!
why didn't you just sand the edges a little bit so it fit better before you broke it? That would have been even cheaper than making a new one.
That camera needs a clean-up
Broken hot shoe mount is the wrong kind of balanced audio...
Also why did you use resin?
High level of detail at a small scale
@@MorleyKert I mean I suppose but I think the filament printer would work half decently
@@JasonCrothers he's making good TH-cam content for us all to learn from. just because he can print with a filament printer doesn't mean that its bad to use a resin printer. You experiment with all the options you have available to find out what works best for you. at the same time he's also developing new skills and trying to attract new viewers.
@@joshualiebrecht578 yes and commenting helps support.
My question was genuine. Your post seems defensive, I've been wrong before though. I have a filament printer and reproduce things all the time as he does in this video. I don't have a resin printer so I was curious. His response was pretty limited. I could produce something very similar and possibly stronger with my filament printer. My reproduction of what he is creating in this video would be substantially stronger than what he has produced.
What really made me raise an eyebrow is even with the high level of detail he had to "alter" it with a knife anyways.... So then I have a bunch of follow-up questions, why didn't he use filament when he has such a sexy printer in the background, is it an issue with that printer alone, would the type of resin change the finished product or does the reproduction design need altering? Lot's of questions on my end.
Overengineered but we love you for it.
Great videos, but all the grime and dust on your camera at the 1:05 minute mark is giving me an anxiety attack.
i like your video keep up the good work but wear gloves resin its not something to play with :)
Dude, dust off your cameras!!!
Great job. But your camera is filthy!