Tips/tricks from my experience: - lower the subframe equally, as in all bolts must be lowered the same distance, but only enough for top inserts to go in. do not loosen them more than needed. - there should be three bolts holding subframe minimum at all times, only completely remove one bolt at a time. - support subframe with floor jack when lowering or raising, you can use diff as center point for this. never tighten bolts so that they raise the subframe as you tighten them with a tool, and - finger tight bolts until everything is flush. only then use torque wrench to tighten. again, lift subframe with jack until it is flush, and use a mallet or your feet to align subframe holes perfectly so bolts go finger tight without issue. Bolts are extremely easy to cross thread. all these precautions are so the bolts are not cross threaded and so the subframe doesn't fall and crush you to death. it's an easy install, just gotta be very meticulous to not screw up and save yourself a ton of grief. watch all install videos on youtube, tons of little tips and visual reference for when it's your turn.
I wish so much I had read this comment before doing this. I cross threaded the front driver bolt. I had no idea bolts this huge would be so sensitive. I got a M14x1.5 tap, and since long taps are few and far between, I thank my lucky stars my tap was similar enough size to use the square drive on a 3/8" ratchet extension to turn the tap all the way up through the subframe, using a 3/8" wrench to turn the extension drive. A little play but I used thread locker and torqued it to spec. ALWAYS read the comments!
Hey, trying to install those this weekend. did you just use one jack? so you jack up the diff, just loosen all 4 bolts (not removing them), then lower the diff, and install this bushing one by one, hand tighten the bolts, then lift the diff, then torque to spec. did i miss anything? thanks
Hey thanks for clipping the whiteline bit showing the ‘rear end movement’…Now I know why I need this lol, “voided rubber bushings” no bueno. I think the pitch stop and trans mount made most noticeable improvement for my 15+ wrx, now if it just had double the HP and some nice coilovers 🤔
This can be very easy on a lift, but it's tricky on a garage floor. Also, cross threading the rear bolts happens often when the frame is not 100 aligned. Make sure all 4 large bolts go in effortlessly and not tight them until all 4 are completely seated.
It was actually pretty easy for me when I had my car on jack stands. Luckily I didn't have any issues either when putting the bolts back in. It was, however, kind of nerve wrecking after hearing horror stories of people stripping it while putting the bolts back in 😅
Yes, I was cringing a little when watching that part. These bolts have extremely delicate threads and can cross thread very easily. You should finger tight them completely until you can only tighten them with a tool/torque wrench at the top of travel. They will also trick you if the subframe is not aligned perfectly, will seem like you can't finger tight them but its the subframe preventing you from going all in.
I've been searching around on the forums and can't find a reference to 72 ft/lbs as you mentioned in the video. Do you have a reference for that? FSM seems to suggest 107 ft/lbs, and Whiteline has 100 ft/lbs as a backup, but also suggests torquing to factory spec. Kinda confused, as I did see another video where someone also said 72 ft/lbs so want to make sure I'm not missing something. haha
Great question! I just took a look at the Whiteline installation intructions and it shows the 72 ft/lbs at the end. www.whiteline.com.au/docs/install_guides/Z5259.pdf
@@KevinVo Man Whiteline is killing me with these torque specs. The same Z5259 instruction guide printout that came with my kit says 100 ft.lb for the main frame bolts, 40 ft.lb for the front support bolts, and 45 ft.lb (!) for the e-brake cable. I stripped my e-brake bracket thread because of this.
Tips/tricks from my experience:
- lower the subframe equally, as in all bolts must be lowered the same distance, but only enough for top inserts to go in. do not loosen them more than needed.
- there should be three bolts holding subframe minimum at all times, only completely remove one bolt at a time.
- support subframe with floor jack when lowering or raising, you can use diff as center point for this. never tighten bolts so that they raise the subframe as you tighten them with a tool, and
- finger tight bolts until everything is flush. only then use torque wrench to tighten. again, lift subframe with jack until it is flush, and use a mallet or your feet to align subframe holes perfectly so bolts go finger tight without issue.
Bolts are extremely easy to cross thread. all these precautions are so the bolts are not cross threaded and so the subframe doesn't fall and crush you to death. it's an easy install, just gotta be very meticulous to not screw up and save yourself a ton of grief. watch all install videos on youtube, tons of little tips and visual reference for when it's your turn.
Thanks for the tips!
I wish so much I had read this comment before doing this. I cross threaded the front driver bolt. I had no idea bolts this huge would be so sensitive. I got a M14x1.5 tap, and since long taps are few and far between, I thank my lucky stars my tap was similar enough size to use the square drive on a 3/8" ratchet extension to turn the tap all the way up through the subframe, using a 3/8" wrench to turn the extension drive. A little play but I used thread locker and torqued it to spec.
ALWAYS read the comments!
Hey, trying to install those this weekend. did you just use one jack?
so you jack up the diff, just loosen all 4 bolts (not removing them), then lower the diff, and install this bushing one by one, hand tighten the bolts, then lift the diff, then torque to spec.
did i miss anything?
thanks
Installed these a year ago and they're absolutely amazing. Corners have never been more fun.
Looking forward to feeling them out on the track!
Appreciate these videos on the simple parts, not a lot of them out there and sometimes there are quirks with installation.
Hey thanks for clipping the whiteline bit showing the ‘rear end movement’…Now I know why I need this lol, “voided rubber bushings” no bueno. I think the pitch stop and trans mount made most noticeable improvement for my 15+ wrx, now if it just had double the HP and some nice coilovers 🤔
Best underrated mod for the gt86. Honestly a must-have.
My guy gonna be such a beast on the track next season 👌🏽
Hope so! haha
I like the idea of the magnetic tray underneath
This can be very easy on a lift, but it's tricky on a garage floor. Also, cross threading the rear bolts happens often when the frame is not 100 aligned. Make sure all 4 large bolts go in effortlessly and not tight them until all 4 are completely seated.
It was actually pretty easy for me when I had my car on jack stands. Luckily I didn't have any issues either when putting the bolts back in. It was, however, kind of nerve wrecking after hearing horror stories of people stripping it while putting the bolts back in 😅
@@aerowick4643 I started to cross thread one of the back ones, but saved it later.
Yes, I was cringing a little when watching that part. These bolts have extremely delicate threads and can cross thread very easily. You should finger tight them completely until you can only tighten them with a tool/torque wrench at the top of travel. They will also trick you if the subframe is not aligned perfectly, will seem like you can't finger tight them but its the subframe preventing you from going all in.
@@Synthwave89 sometimes it could be some dirt or debris on the thread itself too that prevents from turning in smoothly by hand
Quick and easy it looks like
Didn't know about this. Now I'm going to buy it. I thought there were only solid bushings.
Much easier than replacing the whole bushing.
Seems straight forward enough. Do these washers work alongside a rear diff riser kit if we want to go lower?
I can't comment on the diff risers as I don't have experience with those.
I've been searching around on the forums and can't find a reference to 72 ft/lbs as you mentioned in the video. Do you have a reference for that? FSM seems to suggest 107 ft/lbs, and Whiteline has 100 ft/lbs as a backup, but also suggests torquing to factory spec. Kinda confused, as I did see another video where someone also said 72 ft/lbs so want to make sure I'm not missing something. haha
Great question! I just took a look at the Whiteline installation intructions and it shows the 72 ft/lbs at the end.
www.whiteline.com.au/docs/install_guides/Z5259.pdf
@@KevinVo Man Whiteline is killing me with these torque specs. The same Z5259 instruction guide printout that came with my kit says 100 ft.lb for the main frame bolts, 40 ft.lb for the front support bolts, and 45 ft.lb (!) for the e-brake cable. I stripped my e-brake bracket thread because of this.
Will this part work on the gen 2 BRZ/GR86 by chance?
Unfortunately Whiteline doesn't test vehicle compatibility for a lot of their products enough.
Hi Kevin, do you know what is the part # of the subframe bushing insert for 2011 subaru outback 2.5?
Unfortunately I don't, sorry!
Does this put more stress on the axles, since it lowers the subframe closer to the ground?
The change is negligible when it comes to the height of the subframe.
Does anyone know where I can get the back subframe bolts?
Do these fit the gr86?
Yes it should fit the same!
Car's going to be so stiff you'll need to start calling it Viagra soon.
😂😅😂