Gosh, I wish more videos were like this. No frills or fluff, straight to the point, showcasing important parts and step by step procedures, with concise narration to elaborate on each step. Keep making vids like this!
Came here to say the same exact thing! I’ve been putting off this job for months then I decided to go for it this morning and found this video. Quick, to the point, good tips, all give me confidence to tackle the job. Dude just got a new subscriber!
Dude, concise, to the point, no fluff. Absolutely love it. Couldn’t believe you were able to get all that in in 3 and a half minutes. Well done. You should do both a “for dummy’s” version as well, idiot proof going by step by step. And then the Cole’s notes versions like this one. To encompass mostly everyone’s slillsets! Cheers!
After struggling for 2 hours to try getting the pan past the exhaust, I ended up doing exactly as you did. Then I watched this video. Wish I had watched it sooner. I did not want to unbolt the exhaust form the manifold in fear of snapping off the rusty studs and having to remove the 02 sensor. I also tried to lift the tail of the transmission by removing the mount and jacking it up. Waste of time that did not provide enough clearance to get the pan out.
I changed my Transmission filter gasket, fluid and seal, and I was cussing engineers, another 1/2" clearance for the exhaust that is directly underneath would have made this a quick change. I tried to remove pan and it hooked on the back end and prevented removal. So I removed the Transmission filter which took some maneuvering and thought that would help, it didn't. I do things right and had to remove pan, to clean and change the Seal as well. HERE IS HOW I DID IT! I had the pan loose and rotated it towards the curved front end of the pan and it cleared! I was underneath looking up, I think it was a clockwise action, but you will only be able to do it one way. I cleaned a bunch of fine clutch wear (113k) off magnet and reused the gasket and then removed the seal by using the shiny chamfered area around it by using my small ball peen, and a screwdriver size forked end small nail puller, collapsed it and pulled it out with needle nose pliers. It was very stiff and old and may have lasted, but I doubt it. I then took a deep well socket, as I remember it was a 22 mm, (whatever fit the exact collar on the seal), and tapped lightly and patiently until it fully seated and tapped it once more for good measure. As far as the Pan installation, I already had the Transmission filter and seal installed, and they say don't put anything on the reusable gasket and because it was not flexible, has raised ribs and had crush type bolt holes, it was easy. I did not have to rotate or do anything special, as I recall I put it in from the front and bolted a couple to keep it in place and used my nut driver to snug all of the bolts then just used a 1/4" drive socket and extension and used my 3 finger tightening method in a tire lug type sequence. It shifts better and smoother! And these 4L60E and 4l80e transmissions are subpar anyway, I have changed a few on different Chevy trucks over the years. This is for my 2011 4x4 Avalanche truck. Good Luck! P.S. I wish I had seen the posts by Averywayne and Dsnuts, before I went to school of hard knocks below.
I just did a trans fluid and filter job on this Chevy, and what I found out is IN THR REAR OF THE PAN WHERE THE SHIFT CABLE IS, REMOVE REAR BOLT ON TOP OF PAN , ITS A T-40 BOLT. Once you take out the bolt you can than wiggle the shift bracket loose and get the pan out. The hook on the bracket is what is caught up on the trans pan, give it a try!!. You’re welcome. Use a stubby 3/8 ratchet and 3/8 T-40. To remove bolt it’s upside down so bend your wrist and feel it out. Or use a mirror to see first.
Thanks for this video. I was dreading having to loosen or pry at the exhaust as I've seen in other videos. Your method not to remove the pan all the way and still have access to filter made made the job much easier.
I'm posting this to hopefully help others, not for arguments sake. Pan Removal Trick: I have 2018 Tahoe 6L80 trans. and the pan will come right out! Not sure if your ride will have it (i know most do), but I removed the heat shield on passenger side of pan (2 bolts). Then I was able to slide the pan over to passenger side about 3 inches, then twisted the front of the pan towards the driver side and it came right out! Removing the little heat shield gives you lots more room. If you look at the back of the pan (shallow end), there is a little raised area on the bottom about 3 inches from the passenger side, that spot is the point that will allow you to move passed the exhaust y pipe (cross over pipe). Hope this helps!! 👍
nice video, thank you for making it. If I had a lift I could have hypothetically done it without removing the pan as you did - however removing the transmission mount bolts was the best trick I found on the internet. Then getting around that shifter cable was a PIA, but pray bar to the rescue and I hope I did not damage it. I'll know tomorrow when I drive her properly. As for the entire job, I completed mine in 2 days (which was impressive for me) Probably about 4 hours in total of labor on it. a couple of bolts were very hard to get a socket onto, but hammered them on and it really helped. I elected to replace my pan just because I did not want to clean the old gasket that was stuck on, just assumed have a brand new one and my truck is a 06 so the pan was quite rusty! Finally, I torqued the bolts to 8 ft. lbs (used a cork gasket and heavens, I uses some RTV as well). All is looking well, now I'm going to check out your fluid flush video b/c I am wondering if I should do that next or not. Honestly, my noisy lifters are what aggravate me more - I may focus on that. Cheers!
Fixing to start mine tomorrow and I I just recently had a lifter fail and it bent so 3400 dollars later after a head job that solved that issue and now my 2008 Silverado is having transmission issues and at a cold start I can put it in gear and drive but a few minutes later it's like throwing it in neutral and no gears work until I kill the vehicle and wait a few minutes and it will go back in gear and drive for a short amount of time and do it again so I am thinking that the filter is clogged hopefully
Thanks for posting this video. Helped me out changing my transmission oil the other day went ahead and reused the oil gasket for the transmission filter and reused the pan gasket although i wish i would have had a new gasket but just hit 60k miles on my 2011 Silverado going to change it again at 100k then ill replace the gasket.
Thanks for this video, you just saved me a lot of time! I dropped the exhaust on the last one I did. I also learned today that the WIX(it's what they stock at work) filter and gasket kit# 58369 comes with the wrong gasket but the correct filter for a 2015 6L80.
I was told flushing the entire system pushes particles into the transmission and harms it so a fluid/filter change is all that is needed in most cases.
If you look on the driver's side of the transmission there are 2 transmission fluid lines that are attached by the aluminum block with 1 bolt that holds the lines into the transmission and a good idea is to buy 2 cans of cooler flush to back flush the factory transmission cooler both ways to dislodge the crud stuck in the cooler that way the cooler flows better and does a better job at cooling the transmission fluid . Only use cooler flush because brake cleaner or carburetor cleaner will NOT get the crud out of the transmission cooler nearly as good as cooler flush will. The reason why it's not the best idea to power flush the transmission is that most of the crud is stuck in the torque converter and once power flushing it the crud that was in the transmission cooler also ends up in the torque converter and can do damage to it & the transmission once this crud gets dislodged and starts to get pumped throughout the transmission and valve body. Years ago the old TH 350 and TH 400 and some of the 700r4s had pan drains and drain plugs on the torque converters so everything could be drained out then filter and fluid changed out but now they try to seal everything up and make it hard to change the fluid on them by the average person . I often buy a drain plug from the auto parts store and weld the bungs onto the pan once I find the best spot that it can be mounted at that way a guy can drop fluid a few times to freshen up the old fluid that's left in the converter after a few hundred miles . At least we still have dip sticks to check our fluid with though because some vehicles are a sealed unit for the life of the transmission or you have to buy a special dip stick to check the fluid at a certain temperature and in some cases you have to use a high dollar code scanner to check the level of transmission fluid on some makes .
Thanks for this vid! Wish i would have found sooner!! This worked perfect for My 2016 Suburban LTZ, you saved me from removing the exhaust from the headers
Depending on your size you dont need to lift anything, if i remember correctly i jacked up the front and used 2 jack stands but it was a slight lift since i only needed a little space. If your fill line goes up to the engine bay id triple check your levels after your done. About month after changing mine, my tranny went out and i had to get it replaced. Not sure if it was lack of fluid but i had the infamous torque covertor failure. Maybe i waited to long to change to the new fluid. I drove it 1000 miles total to kansas and back and it drove well, but after wards it failed. So check your levels and be gentle with that cover. You dont want to break or pull loose any connections that sit right above it inside the tranny. I was at 88k and if you have the same model these trucks are known for torque convertor failure and the replacement at GM with 100k 3 year warranty is $6k. So if you have the money and are afraid to mess something up just pay to get it changed.
Changing the filter only drains the fluid in the pan. It doesn't exchange the fluid trapped in the converter, oil cooler, or lines. Performing a fluid exchange with the vehicle running cycles old fluid out of the system while new fluid is added.
Love your videos and getting ready to do routine fluid changes on our 2019 Sierra 6.2 / 10 speed (53k) - Awesome job on the differential fluid changes but are you planning to do the tranny and colling system for a 2019 - 2023 GM Truck? Thanks for your great videos.
I am planning to do the trans service on the 2019-2023 in the near future, but will probably wait a year or two on the cooling system. Thanks for watching, appreciate the feedback!
Awesome!!! Are you waiting on time or mileage for the cooling system (Just Curious because I'm ocd about routine maintenance - LOL) Super excited to see if the same issue occurs on dropping the transmission pan but I have heard seen you can actually wiggle it out - LOL @@MasterJacks
Yeah, good to stay ahead on maintenance. It's a 5yr/100k coolant and I'm at about 3.5 yrs/50k. It still looks really good, so probably next year for me. I'm looking forward to the tranny job. It looks to me like the exhaust is even more obstructing than previous model years, but we'll see how it goes! 😀
It really should be replaced on condition. If it's brown, dark, and/or has a burnt smell, it needs done. New fluid is red or pinkish on the dipstick and has good clarity.
Question my transmission fluid is dark reddish color with 169,000 original miles and when it changes gears its jerks. Do i change it the transmission filter and oil
I have a 2014 5.3 with 73,000 miles. It has the 6L80 transmission. I just changed my transmission filter and fluid yesterday. I used Valvoline full synthetic ATF and it feels sluggish. I bought the right fluid and filter, I don’t see why it would feel sluggish or different than it did previous to this change. Any ideas?
I'm not sure what the correlation would be. Maybe it's going through an adaptive relearn cycle for some reason. It may get better as it adjusts shift-timing and engagement pressures over the course 3 or 4 drive cycles. If a line was bent or the new filter is defective, you could have a restriction in the fluid circuit. The trans pump will put a "load" on the vehicle as it has to work harder to move fluid. If the filter/fluid change went without damage or difficulty, that probably isn't the case. Also, double-check your fluid level to make sure it isn't low. Best of luck, thanks for watching.
I was replacing my fluid and filter when I noticed the filter seal was stuck, so I tried removing it with a pick abs and I tore a thin black paper on the front of the valve body that is between the solenoids and just behind where the filters neck would be. Any ideas what that would be and should I be concerned? Also, my pan gasket tore at 12lbs torque, was told it was a cheap one.
I did exactly the same thing, drained oil, changed filter, added 6 quarts and dip stick shows level way higher then marked on the stick. Any idea why ?
Did you check the level with the engine running? It has to be running to get an accurate reading. If you did, I'm not sure why it would be high unless you have a different transmission.🤷♂️
That small gasket can be really difficult to remove on this transmission. Often more harm can be done than good in trying to remove it. For me, it made more sense to reuse it.
Cost of around $75-100 for the filter, pan gasket, and fluid. About an hour to do it as seen in this video. A complete fluid exchange would be closer to $125-150, and 1.5-2hrs. Likely $300-500 paying someone else to do it.
I enjoyed the video and it will be helpful when I change the fluid and filter on my 2011. You mentioned a flush. Did to video that? Are you planning to upload that as well?
After spending 3 hours trying to remove the damn pan with a pry bar, I’ve decided never to buy a chevy ever again. My tahoe is great and ill keep it for a lifetime, but some designs are just ridiculous.
@@hundredrounddrum5378 lol true, or I could use a jack and use the pry bar with it to lower the exhaust. But taking out the transmission pan shouldn’t be a pain in the ass.
Respect on the great video. Super informative but working with the pan dirty and not taking it down to clean it gave me chills. Maybe clean the pan first so all that road grime doesn't end up on the gasket or in the pan while trying to rehang it? Seriously though, I do like the edit and no BS filler nonsense!
Thanks, I appreciate that. I regretted no having cleaned it first. I thought I was going to be able to manipulate the exhaust to completely remove the pan, should have cleaned it first anyhow.
It doesn't. You would need to do a flush to exchange the fluid from the torque converter and cooler. I have a separate video showing that process. th-cam.com/video/ZGldRoGlqnU/w-d-xo.html
Why the hell gm couldnt route the exhaust differently or raise the vehicle an inch to lower the exhaust piping an inch is beyond me. I shouldnt have to disassemble my exhaust to get to a regularly maintenanced component.
Hello. Im going to change mine. But i tried yesterday to use my new torque wrench. And broke a bolt. I took it out already but im i scare to break another one when i put everything back on. Please anyone help. I have the precisionbuilt torque wreng 1/2 inch
A 1/2" torque wrench is too big for this kind of application. It only calls for 80 inch pounds (which is less than 7 foot pounds). You will need to use a 1/4" torque wrench that measures in inch pounds.
@@MasterJacks Thank you! My hubs 2008 Silverado is doing weird transmission stuff. Doesn't feel like it's breaking, for some reason it doesn't want to shift into gear once in a while. I was wondering about filters and I'm grateful for your video and help with folks comments. I'm just responding here since you already answered what I needed :)
I wouldn't do it this way. Bad job. Just a little bit more job dropping the exhaust by removing the hanger you could have cleaned thoroughly without contaminating the transmission with dirt.
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Gosh, I wish more videos were like this. No frills or fluff, straight to the point, showcasing important parts and step by step procedures, with concise narration to elaborate on each step. Keep making vids like this!
Came here to say the same exact thing! I’ve been putting off this job for months then I decided to go for it this morning and found this video. Quick, to the point, good tips, all give me confidence to tackle the job. Dude just got a new subscriber!
Just changed mine. After you pull the filter. Turn the pan clockwise and it slips right out. No struggle. Made it super easy.
So remove bolts then remove filter and by doing that you can easily turn the pan to remove? Is the filter not letting the pan turn?
@@frozone993 I thought I replied but I guess not. Any luck. You were on the right path.
The pan will come out, I don't remember how I did it. Standing on one foot and holding your tounge in the right position probably helped me.
@@walterhamilton5497 lol
I done this yesterday, thanks a million man! Kinda wish I had a drain plug though
If you push the front of the pan up and over toward the driver side (at about a 45* angle) the pan wiggles right out.
Mine didn't
@@jimday9720 unbolt the transmission mount 2 bolts in cross member lift the Trans gives little more room
And pull down on the exhaust pipe. Only way it will come out.
Doe heat the motor is bolted to trans y pipe will move with it
Dude, concise, to the point, no fluff. Absolutely love it. Couldn’t believe you were able to get all that in in 3 and a half minutes. Well done. You should do both a “for dummy’s” version as well, idiot proof going by step by step. And then the Cole’s notes versions like this one. To encompass mostly everyone’s slillsets! Cheers!
After struggling for 2 hours to try getting the pan past the exhaust, I ended up doing exactly as you did. Then I watched this video. Wish I had watched it sooner. I did not want to unbolt the exhaust form the manifold in fear of snapping off the rusty studs and having to remove the 02 sensor. I also tried to lift the tail of the transmission by removing the mount and jacking it up. Waste of time that did not provide enough clearance to get the pan out.
I changed my Transmission filter gasket, fluid and seal, and I was cussing engineers, another 1/2" clearance for the exhaust that is directly underneath would have made this a quick change. I tried to remove pan and it hooked on the back end and prevented removal.
So I removed the Transmission filter which took some maneuvering and thought that would help, it didn't. I do things right and had to remove pan, to clean and change the Seal as well. HERE IS HOW I DID IT! I had the pan loose and rotated it towards the curved front end of the pan and it cleared! I was underneath looking up, I think it was a clockwise action, but you will only be able to do it one way. I cleaned a bunch of fine clutch wear (113k) off magnet and reused the gasket and then removed the seal by using the shiny chamfered area around it by using my small ball peen, and a screwdriver size forked end small nail puller, collapsed it and pulled it out with needle nose pliers. It was very stiff and old and may have lasted, but I doubt it. I then took a deep well socket, as I remember it was a 22 mm, (whatever fit the exact collar on the seal), and tapped lightly and patiently until it fully seated and tapped it once more for good measure. As far as the Pan installation, I already had the Transmission filter and seal installed, and they say don't put anything on the reusable gasket and because it was not flexible, has raised ribs and had crush type bolt holes, it was easy. I did not have to rotate or do anything special, as I recall I put it in from the front and bolted a couple to keep it in place and used my nut driver to snug all of the bolts then just used a 1/4" drive socket and extension and used my 3 finger tightening method in a tire lug type sequence. It shifts better and smoother! And these 4L60E and 4l80e transmissions are subpar anyway, I have changed a few on different Chevy trucks over the years.
This is for my 2011 4x4 Avalanche truck. Good Luck!
P.S. I wish I had seen the posts by Averywayne and Dsnuts, before I went to school of hard knocks below.
I just did a trans fluid and filter job on this Chevy, and what I found out is IN THR REAR OF THE PAN WHERE THE SHIFT CABLE IS, REMOVE REAR BOLT ON TOP OF PAN , ITS A T-40 BOLT. Once you take out the bolt you can than wiggle the shift bracket loose and get the pan out. The hook on the bracket is what is caught up on the trans pan, give it a try!!. You’re welcome. Use a stubby 3/8 ratchet and 3/8 T-40. To remove bolt it’s upside down so bend your wrist and feel it out. Or use a mirror to see first.
Thanks for this video. I was dreading having to loosen or pry at the exhaust as I've seen in other videos. Your method not to remove the pan all the way and still have access to filter made made the job much easier.
I'm posting this to hopefully help others, not for arguments sake.
Pan Removal Trick: I have 2018 Tahoe 6L80 trans. and the pan will come right out! Not sure if your ride will have it (i know most do), but I removed the heat shield on passenger side of pan (2 bolts). Then I was able to slide the pan over to passenger side about 3 inches, then twisted the front of the pan towards the driver side and it came right out! Removing the little heat shield gives you lots more room. If you look at the back of the pan (shallow end), there is a little raised area on the bottom about 3 inches from the passenger side, that spot is the point that will allow you to move passed the exhaust y pipe (cross over pipe). Hope this helps!! 👍
Could you do a video on that it would help manny people
Its always nice to have a lift in your garage
Love this tutorial!!! I'm fixing to do my 11 GMC Z71. But I'm more impressed you used like 4 squirts of brake clean. I would have used 6 cans.
nice video, thank you for making it. If I had a lift I could have hypothetically done it without removing the pan as you did - however removing the transmission mount bolts was the best trick I found on the internet. Then getting around that shifter cable was a PIA, but pray bar to the rescue and I hope I did not damage it. I'll know tomorrow when I drive her properly.
As for the entire job, I completed mine in 2 days (which was impressive for me) Probably about 4 hours in total of labor on it. a couple of bolts were very hard to get a socket onto, but hammered them on and it really helped. I elected to replace my pan just because I did not want to clean the old gasket that was stuck on, just assumed have a brand new one and my truck is a 06 so the pan was quite rusty!
Finally, I torqued the bolts to 8 ft. lbs (used a cork gasket and heavens, I uses some RTV as well). All is looking well, now I'm going to check out your fluid flush video b/c I am wondering if I should do that next or not. Honestly, my noisy lifters are what aggravate me more - I may focus on that. Cheers!
Fixing to start mine tomorrow and I I just recently had a lifter fail and it bent so 3400 dollars later after a head job that solved that issue and now my 2008 Silverado is having transmission issues and at a cold start I can put it in gear and drive but a few minutes later it's like throwing it in neutral and no gears work until I kill the vehicle and wait a few minutes and it will go back in gear and drive for a short amount of time and do it again so I am thinking that the filter is clogged hopefully
@@bobbywhite1411 sounds like a bigger tranny issue
Thanks for posting this video. Helped me out changing my transmission oil the other day went ahead and reused the oil gasket for the transmission filter and reused the pan gasket although i wish i would have had a new gasket but just hit 60k miles on my 2011 Silverado going to change it again at 100k then ill replace the gasket.
Thanks for this video, you just saved me a lot of time! I dropped the exhaust on the last one I did. I also learned today that the WIX(it's what they stock at work) filter and gasket kit# 58369 comes with the wrong gasket but the correct filter for a 2015 6L80.
Did it this way today and it was easy. No mess at all. Thank's
id recommend cleaning around the pan/gasket area to reduce the potential to get debri in
I helped my buddy do this on his '09 Silverado and we bent the shift cable bracket and were able to pull the pan all the way off.
I was told flushing the entire system pushes particles into the transmission and harms it so a fluid/filter change is all that is needed in most cases.
If you look on the driver's side of the transmission there are 2 transmission fluid lines that are attached by the aluminum block with 1 bolt that holds the lines into the transmission and a good idea is to buy 2 cans of cooler flush to back flush the factory transmission cooler both ways to dislodge the crud stuck in the cooler that way the cooler flows better and does a better job at cooling the transmission fluid . Only use cooler flush because brake cleaner or carburetor cleaner will NOT get the crud out of the transmission cooler nearly as good as cooler flush will. The reason why it's not the best idea to power flush the transmission is that most of the crud is stuck in the torque converter and once power flushing it the crud that was in the transmission cooler also ends up in the torque converter and can do damage to it & the transmission once this crud gets dislodged and starts to get pumped throughout the transmission and valve body. Years ago the old TH 350 and TH 400 and some of the 700r4s had pan drains and drain plugs on the torque converters so everything could be drained out then filter and fluid changed out but now they try to seal everything up and make it hard to change the fluid on them by the average person . I often buy a drain plug from the auto parts store and weld the bungs onto the pan once I find the best spot that it can be mounted at that way a guy can drop fluid a few times to freshen up the old fluid that's left in the converter after a few hundred miles . At least we still have dip sticks to check our fluid with though because some vehicles are a sealed unit for the life of the transmission or you have to buy a special dip stick to check the fluid at a certain temperature and in some cases you have to use a high dollar code scanner to check the level of transmission fluid on some makes .
I use a jack n metal bar and pry the exhaust n body just enough to wiggle out the pan. If you don't have a fancy lift.
Smart to siphon the fluid out
The lift is a big help! Nice video.
Clean the pan before the initial removal not being cocky just adding it to the feedback
Oh man that fitting makes it such an easy job to flush!
Great job on this video. Very efficient!
How many gallons do u use just doing this process.. not flushing the transmission
Just saved me a bunch of time and money. Thanks boss man
I bough 2011 gmc sierra with 4.8 v8 and 4 speed 4L60e which transmission fluid should I use?
Thank you very much video was very straight forward now going to have to change my fluid on my 2011 Sierra.👍
Thanks for this vid! Wish i would have found sooner!! This worked perfect for My 2016 Suburban LTZ, you saved me from removing the exhaust from the headers
Did you have vehicle in the air or on the wheels?
Depending on your size you dont need to lift anything, if i remember correctly i jacked up the front and used 2 jack stands but it was a slight lift since i only needed a little space. If your fill line goes up to the engine bay id triple check your levels after your done. About month after changing mine, my tranny went out and i had to get it replaced. Not sure if it was lack of fluid but i had the infamous torque covertor failure. Maybe i waited to long to change to the new fluid. I drove it 1000 miles total to kansas and back and it drove well, but after wards it failed. So check your levels and be gentle with that cover. You dont want to break or pull loose any connections that sit right above it inside the tranny.
I was at 88k and if you have the same model these trucks are known for torque convertor failure and the replacement at GM with 100k 3 year warranty is $6k. So if you have the money and are afraid to mess something up just pay to get it changed.
Good video. Just wondering tho. Why flush the system after you change the filter?
Changing the filter only drains the fluid in the pan. It doesn't exchange the fluid trapped in the converter, oil cooler, or lines. Performing a fluid exchange with the vehicle running cycles old fluid out of the system while new fluid is added.
Love your videos and getting ready to do routine fluid changes on our 2019 Sierra 6.2 / 10 speed (53k) - Awesome job on the differential fluid changes but are you planning to do the tranny and colling system for a 2019 - 2023 GM Truck? Thanks for your great videos.
I am planning to do the trans service on the 2019-2023 in the near future, but will probably wait a year or two on the cooling system. Thanks for watching, appreciate the feedback!
Awesome!!! Are you waiting on time or mileage for the cooling system (Just Curious because I'm ocd about routine maintenance - LOL) Super excited to see if the same issue occurs on dropping the transmission pan but I have heard seen you can actually wiggle it out - LOL @@MasterJacks
Yeah, good to stay ahead on maintenance. It's a 5yr/100k coolant and I'm at about 3.5 yrs/50k. It still looks really good, so probably next year for me. I'm looking forward to the tranny job. It looks to me like the exhaust is even more obstructing than previous model years, but we'll see how it goes! 😀
How often do you change the trans fluid, I have an 08' 1500 silverado, and I have never changed it.
It really should be replaced on condition. If it's brown, dark, and/or has a burnt smell, it needs done. New fluid is red or pinkish on the dipstick and has good clarity.
@@MasterJacks thanks, I appreciate it
Nice video but You are supposed to clean the pan all the way around before removing screws to prevent any dirt to get inside.
Nice video,No silicone is required on the new gasket?
Thank you, not on transmission pan gaskets. If any of the silicone makes it into the valve body, it can cause serious issues.
Question my transmission fluid is dark reddish color with 169,000 original miles and when it changes gears its jerks. Do i change it the transmission filter and oil
Thanks for getting straight to the point 👍🏼
How did you put the filter back ?
I have a 2014 5.3 with 73,000 miles. It has the 6L80 transmission. I just changed my transmission filter and fluid yesterday. I used Valvoline full synthetic ATF and it feels sluggish. I bought the right fluid and filter, I don’t see why it would feel sluggish or different than it did previous to this change. Any ideas?
I'm not sure what the correlation would be. Maybe it's going through an adaptive relearn cycle for some reason. It may get better as it adjusts shift-timing and engagement pressures over the course 3 or 4 drive cycles. If a line was bent or the new filter is defective, you could have a restriction in the fluid circuit. The trans pump will put a "load" on the vehicle as it has to work harder to move fluid. If the filter/fluid change went without damage or difficulty, that probably isn't the case. Also, double-check your fluid level to make sure it isn't low. Best of luck, thanks for watching.
Did you figure out what the problem was?
Is that engine a 5.3? How many liters of oil does the transmission have? What oil is it? dexron 6?
They say use scissors jack on exhaust to spread 0pening
IF the seal has to come out, what tool can be used??? Mine needs to come out.
I was replacing my fluid and filter when I noticed the filter seal was stuck, so I tried removing it with a pick abs and I tore a thin black paper on the front of the valve body that is between the solenoids and just behind where the filters neck would be. Any ideas what that would be and should I be concerned? Also, my pan gasket tore at 12lbs torque, was told it was a cheap one.
I did exactly the same thing, drained oil, changed filter, added 6 quarts and dip stick shows level way higher then marked on the stick. Any idea why ?
Did you check the level with the engine running? It has to be running to get an accurate reading. If you did, I'm not sure why it would be high unless you have a different transmission.🤷♂️
@@MasterJacks you were right, started the engine stick showed cold upper level; ran for another 10 min stick showed hot low level. Thank man !
@@vrajik glad to hear it!
So you said not to remove the little upper part where the filter goes
That small gasket can be really difficult to remove on this transmission. Often more harm can be done than good in trying to remove it. For me, it made more sense to reuse it.
good video, helped me a lot
The 1996 GMC transmission can fit on the 20011 Silverado ?
Great video. Doing it tomorrow.
I'm curious, what would be the approx total cost of all supplies, and your total time to do the work?
Cost of around $75-100 for the filter, pan gasket, and fluid. About an hour to do it as seen in this video. A complete fluid exchange would be closer to $125-150, and 1.5-2hrs. Likely $300-500 paying someone else to do it.
Thank you so much your video was very helpful!!!
I enjoyed the video and it will be helpful when I change the fluid and filter on my 2011. You mentioned a flush. Did to video that? Are you planning to upload that as well?
Thanks for the comment, and yes I did video the flush and will be posting that very soon.
@@MasterJacks That is great. Thanks. I have been trying to figure out the best way to do it.
Hit the pan and surrounding surfaces with pressure washer BEFORE you start this job. Less debris to fall into the pan or onto the new gasket
The sound of the filter sounds funny😜
After spending 3 hours trying to remove the damn pan with a pry bar, I’ve decided never to buy a chevy ever again. My tahoe is great and ill keep it for a lifetime, but some designs are just ridiculous.
That’s why you straight pipe it moe powwwa baby
@@hundredrounddrum5378 lol true, or I could use a jack and use the pry bar with it to lower the exhaust. But taking out the transmission pan shouldn’t be a pain in the ass.
Engineers for you.
Respect on the great video. Super informative but working with the pan dirty and not taking it down to clean it gave me chills. Maybe clean the pan first so all that road grime doesn't end up on the gasket or in the pan while trying to rehang it? Seriously though, I do like the edit and no BS filler nonsense!
Thanks, I appreciate that. I regretted no having cleaned it first. I thought I was going to be able to manipulate the exhaust to completely remove the pan, should have cleaned it first anyhow.
So I'm guessing the filter is the black piece he pulled out
That's correct.
Does this method accomplish a full drain from cooler if so equipped? Thank you
It doesn't. You would need to do a flush to exchange the fluid from the torque converter and cooler. I have a separate video showing that process. th-cam.com/video/ZGldRoGlqnU/w-d-xo.html
Why the hell gm couldnt route the exhaust differently or raise the vehicle an inch to lower the exhaust piping an inch is beyond me. I shouldnt have to disassemble my exhaust to get to a regularly maintenanced component.
Or i don't know. Maybe a drain plug?
I added dex 3 on my 2007 suburban is that ok? I just realized it uses dex 6 I added a quart only about 15 miles ago. What should I do?
1 qt of Dex 3 won't cause an appreciable difference.
MasterJacks 👍🏻 thank you!!
MasterJacks I put valvoline max life atf said dex/merc
@@gueroburban4989 MaxLife Full Synthetic ATF is Dex VI equivalent. It's what I use.
On my 2011 gmc 2500. Pan slipped out just fine.
Not a 5.3
Not a 6L80. Its either a 6L90 with the 6.0 gas or LCT1000 with this 6.6/8.1.
@@transmission612 yeah 6L90 gas 6,0. Changing fluid didn’t help the shuttering noise had to replace torque converter.
0:52 Cataclitic converter. No friend, it’s a cataclysmic converter. 😝
I’d install a drain plug while doing this.
Hello. Im going to change mine. But i tried yesterday to use my new torque wrench. And broke a bolt. I took it out already but im i scare to break another one when i put everything back on. Please anyone help. I have the precisionbuilt torque wreng 1/2 inch
A 1/2" torque wrench is too big for this kind of application. It only calls for 80 inch pounds (which is less than 7 foot pounds). You will need to use a 1/4" torque wrench that measures in inch pounds.
Is it really necessary to flush the tranny out? I hear that could damage your transmission if doing so.
what are the symptoms of a clogged filter?
It'd be fluid starved and would have all kinds of shifting problems
@@MasterJacks Thank you! My hubs 2008 Silverado is doing weird transmission stuff. Doesn't feel like it's breaking, for some reason it doesn't want to shift into gear once in a while. I was wondering about filters and I'm grateful for your video and help with folks comments. I'm just responding here since you already answered what I needed :)
4L60e?
اللهم صل وسلم وبارك على عبدك ونبيك محمدﷺ
Jesus rose from the dead
does someone knows where or how could i find the model of a transmission for a chevrolet silverado LT 2013 flex fuel?
If it's a six speed, it's the 6L80E. You could run your VIN through an online decoder and it would tell you too.
Pretty Good
Strange, my pan came right off today without any special jacking or prying. 2012 2500 with 6.0 gas.
This issue is only with the 5.3's.
How about the 1500 with the 4.3L V6? Same issue as the 5.3L? I heard the 4.8L has the same issue.
Same amount for a 4.8l ?
Be nice if I had a dipstick
I wouldn't do it this way. Bad job. Just a little bit more job dropping the exhaust by removing the hanger you could have cleaned thoroughly without contaminating the transmission with dirt.
How much fluid came out all together?
God i hate chevy. No drain plug with the trans or rear diff? Wtf man