Thank God we have guys like you who can change transmission fluid and filters. You have to have a lot of patience for that job. Kind of reminds me of back to school shopping with my wife and kids. No thank you!
I did this 2 days ago and when I put it all back together 2 codes popped up..the dreaded P0700 transmission control module and the P0976 shift solenoid B control circuit low. All I did was changed the filter and fluid and new gasket and these 2 rotten codes pull up...I have the fluid level perfect and when I drive it it has a slow 2-3 shift so that's one of the 2 solenoids on the backside of the trans case pan rail area.. I bought 2 new solenoids and will do them tomorrow but I didn't buy a pan with the drain plug so that's a drag. We will see what happens tomorrow... I have cleared the codes with my hand held scanner and did the battery dis-connect and also the on-off the key and gas pedal and the codes keep coming back with the check engine light on.. Excellent video here.
Any update? I want to do this on my truck but I know it hasn’t been done on a regular basis and I’ve read online to leave it the way it is or else the new fluid might dislodge any old deposits.
If it's shifting ok don't do it my tranny got 385k I don't think it's ever been done has a hard shift to second ever now and again my old head from the holler changed his and boom transmission tore up he said do a bottle of Lucas so that's what I'm going try
@@anthonydv0776 I thought about that too and replace filter oh I put a quart of Lucas in it no hard shifts yet knock on wood if your not towing in it or being rough on it I would say change it just make sure you don't over torque the pan bolts and I would use form a gasket on the bolts and gasket
Great video. Didn’t have to mess with the exhaust, but did remove passenger side heat shield and had to pry the shift cable bracket away to get the pan out and in. Needed two people to get it back up. Had a super hard time getting filter seal out. This job sucks doing it from the ground on a dirt driveway.
I'm with you Mr. Black. It was a pain doing it on the ground on my dirt driveway as well. Broke a pan bolt off and then broke an extractor off in the stud. Finally got everything drilled out and a helicoil put in and got everything put back together. Hope I won't have to do it again anytime soon.
You make it look so easy. My brother was a transmission and diff specialist but last 6 years he was diagnosed with motor neuron disease? ( he can't feed himself) i know that i could do this as i saw him do it so many times! Im glad you had uploaded your video. That is awesome 👍.cheers from Australia subbed and liked ❤
I put the Amsoil ATF in my 2016 Silverado with the 6L80 transmission and man I am so impressed with the improvements in shifting! So glad I chose the Amsoil ATF...thanks for another great video!
This Job is tough for some one to do alone! & not on a lift & I did not need to loosen any of the exhaust, I did remove the heat shield ( passenger side ) & used a big pair of channel locks to pry shifter linkage bracket back on the drive shaft & the pan will come out ( move shifter cable out of the way 1st ) this is a good video.
That is so true, I remember older GM's had the bracket with 2 bolts attached at the bottom of the pan, also I was working on a 03 Silverado Thank You for your reply@@TheSundaeDrive
I removed the rear shift bracket bolt, and loosened the front bracket bolt. This allowed bracket/cable assembly to swing out of the way for easy access.
If you don't clean the transmission pan just draining wouldn't be sufficient, any sludge metal shavings etc. sticking to that magnet are going to stay for the most part so Cleaning it like this is more satisfactory!👍 Very interesting video!
I watched 1A Auto clip and looked easy but when I reached to mine noticed the bracket on the way and also the exhaust. I went back and watched their video and realized it's a different transmission set up! I was able to replace the filter with pan still hanging, didn't (couldn't) change the gasket and put everything back together. I was afraid the exhaust nuts become a nightmare! A great video!
Tip that helped me: Rather than moving the exhaust to drop the pan, it's easier to loosen the transmission bolts on the crossmember and jack the transmission up a little bit for clearance
When dropping the pan, for an extra "hand" wedge in some old rags or shirts between the exhaust pipe and pan. It will hold it while taking out last bolts.
For those with the 2wd 2004 gmc yukon xl it's very easy. 16 Pan bolts 2 heat shield bolts shift link and shift link bracket bolts. Done. Changed the pan to 1 with a drain bolt. Drive around then drain and fill again and forget about it for another 4 years
03 sierra 1500 4.8 had the transmission rebuilt maybe 20.000 miles 3 years ago. It's leaking from the bolts. Any other place it maybe leaking from the top to tricIe down and make it look like a gasket leak? i want to change the gasket but getting discouraged
@quickchrome2012 I was too, but it's very easy. Just think to yourself, it's just a pan that holds fluid. And it's a 03... it's not like you are messing around with a 2023. Watch videos, do a walk through with tools to make sure you have everything and don't be a puss. Like having sex for the first time
When putting the pan back with new gasket, place a few bolts on the case with new gasket to help you keep that gasket in place and easier to set back on. Makes a world of a difference when you are doing this alone in your garage and you don't have a fancy shop lift with a buddy like on this video.
Just did mine today. Pumped out most of the fluid with the cheap Harbor freight transfer pump. Made a slide hammer out of 1/2 pipe and took out the filter gasket. Didn't have to touch the shifter linkage. Slid the pan towards the passenger side and just angled the driver's side down a little and it came right out.
We remove gaskets the last 40 years with a scraper that has an exchangable razor blade and before , we warm the old gasket up with a heat gun and later a rotating brass wire brush on the battery drill . I made an impact driver tool on the lathe to put this new suction pipe seal in and I use a small slide hammer bearing puller to get the old seal out . Yes the exhaust pipe is in the way , well not all car designers are born and skilled in Germany.
Sir you did a excellent job. I do have a question if you don't mind. Since you did the drain and got 5 qts out and refill. Would you not want to do just a drain and refill once or twice more? Since the 4L-60E contains approx 11 qts there was more fluid in the torque converter and other parts of the transmission that was not replaced
I have an 05 1500 4x4 deep pan. Pump fluid out of fill line. Take off heat shield and shift linkage. Drop pan. Wiggle filter out. Clean pan. Done. I didn’t have to drop anything. Just a little effort moving the bracket
I just unbolted the shifter linkage bracket there's 2 t40 bolts holding it in. If you have a lift it's not very hard to get your head in the right spot to see them and remove the bracket. I didn't have to mess with any of the exhaust stuff just that bracket and the pan came out easily
I noticed you didn’t have to pull on the exhaust in order to re-install. Is it necessary to remove exhaust? I’ve never had a issue with it but I’ve also have never done it on a 4x4 which is why I ask.
I removed the bracket on my 03 z71 and pulled the exhaust bracket off but didn't have to yank on it also removed the heat shield on the opposite side of cable bracket worked well. Also I guess this guy doesn't have internet or an owners manual it takes 20qu or so per manual but there is still oil in the tran so unless u do a flush u should only need about half that u can find a 12 pack of 1 qu bottles on the cheap if ur not to picky about brand names and that will put at about 3gl
I have a 2009 4x4, and the only reason I'm here is to see how they got the shift linkage mount out of the way. Everything has been accessible and movable, all without power tools. the only thing that was keeping my pan from dropping was the linkage mount, which this is now the 3rd video I've watched that says just to pry it away to make room for pan drop other than that, no issues here.
Not a bad video - but a few things. 1, the gunk in the pan (while common) is not a good sign. 2, the pan gasket indicates that the fluid was changed before for some reason. That + the gunk = a rebuild will be not too far away for this transmission. 3, the filter should be more difficult to remove, and harder to install. The filter seal on this transmission is no good, it's probably hardening from heat and age - AND this seal should ALWAYS be replaced - no matter how hard it is to remove. A bad filter seal causes bubbles in the fluid, and that will cause over heating and eventual failure. Also, if you are going to change the fluid frequently - by dropping the pan - it is wise to invest about $40 for a rubber/silicon pan gasket with steel band in it. They are reusable, and last forever.
The paste is usually pretty normal when its just on the magnet. Its the chunks and shavings that are the issue. same thing goes for Diffs and manual gearboxes aswell.
I have 95 c1500 last time I looked I don't think I need to do too much to get clearance I have a cat back exhaust so it is more clearance thanks for the video
Best way to remove the pan is to loosen up the transmission mounting bolts and use a jack to raise it up a little bit don't even have to touch the exhaust to take off transmission oil pan
i have 2007 chevy avalanche 4x4 i am going to try tommorow even though i got the passenger side exhaust bolts out,it is pain in the ass however see wath happens tommorow. but i also used pump to remove fluids less mess
Bud question real quick just did service on my 03 rcswb Silverado 2wd 1500 with tow haul package. Deep pan filter 4l60e and have lost 4th gear or od. I replaced o ring seal on with filter and I was wondering if I didn’t seat the filter all the way? I would think if I didn’t the pan wouldn’t have went back on bc it is so tight by the exhaust pipe.
Excellent. However, I would like for the camera to have a closeup on how to remove the obstacles that prevent removal of the pan. Fortunately, the pan on my GMC Yukon has a drain plug which makes removal of the pan less messy.
I've done several of these and always unbolted the transmission mount and raised the transmission by the tailshalf. Lot less work when you are doing flatrate
Did my 2wd tonight GMC with exhaust nuts loosened. PITA. I will try your method when I do my 4wd GMC next week. All you need is maybe an inch, so as long as the transfer case doesn't cause problems...Thx!
You can also take the hooked end of a large wrecking bar and hook it over the loosened exhaust from the side. Jacking up or having a friend pull up on the other end sticking out to the side of the truck will use the frame as a fulcrum to lower the exhaust. I used the jack method as an extra set of hands and just left it in place until the job was done. Easy peasy.
In all these years I've never used a gasket remover or even recall it being a thing. May have tontry some if yours took 2 hours of prep time using gasket remover & a razor.
My Z71 sounded exactly like this one. The rocker arm tic annoyed me. Took off the valve covers broke down every single rocker arm,spring and rods cleaned all with Break cleaner flushed engine and it’s as quiet as a new car.
@@JohnSmith-xx1lx yeah seafoam or some marvel mystery oil. Sounds like slightly dirty lifters or rockers. A simple engine flush could have done it as well.
@@shaneintegra well not the lifters and I'd rather clean it with a brush and MMO so it wouldn't risk anything g whatsoever damaging the seals of the engine later in life. Brake clean is very very not good to get in the oil system. But it's a Chevy so it will survive it anyways.
Well thank you for saving me alot of time...I rather send my truck to the tranny shop ....this looks like a really messy ordeal ....been wrenching for alot of years....and I try to avoid big messy jobs....I rather just pay the extra 100 bucks for a shop on a lift with two guys to change it....thank you for showing this video
What about all the fluid thats still in the transmission my Silverado holds 11 quarts but its a z71 if i drop the pan and just replace what was in the pan thats not even half of the transmission fluid getting changed
Amsoil motor oil is good. I've had very good expirnece with Castrol High Mileage ATF or even their regular trans fluid. I'll have to find amsoil atf and try it.
my pan for a chevy Tahoe 2003 has a SCREW on the transmission pan, my question is if is recommended to take off to remove the oil from there and then remove all the screws.
Not sure pulling down on the exhaust is a great idea, may end up doing some damage to the manifold creating leaks or breaking something. Sometimes you got to take the time and do it the right way.
@@TheSundaeDrive i didn't try it but instead of unbolting flanges I used the board and ratchet strap to pull exhaust down enough and I have to unbolt front driveshaft to get that shifter bracket enough clearance to bend it outta the way to get pan down!
Wanting to do this to my 2006 Silverado with 140,000k mileage. I heard it’s not a good idea to change transmission fluid with high mileage, as it may create slipping with clean transmission fluid. Any help?
You should be fine boss man. I just changed mine at 190k and boy was it dirty. Once I changed it shifting was noticeable faster/smoother. I drive an 01 Tahoe
Fine to drain pan and replace filter…..don’t flush the transmission….in other words just replace fluid from pan, don’t try to flush the torque converter….. Guess I should add, you can drain the pan multiple times after driving it at least a few miles.if you want to have mostly all new fluid.
@chrizflorez2425 I've been contemplating changing my transmission fluid for the 1st time on my 04 Sierra with 215,000 miles. I don't think it's having any problems shifting and every time I check the fluid, it looks great. I've had plenty of experience with fixing things that weren't broken, only to have to fix them again soon after.
Will take 4 total shift solenoids. 2 are the same part# you can buy at any auto store and other 2 u can get on Amazon. Watch his other video on how to do it. Took me 4 hours to do
The tube will only go so far into the transmission fluid. there is a metal plate at the bottom of the where the dip stick goes so that if you put something in there it would not go to the bottom of the pan. You could probably remove about an inch of transmission fluid if it was full. If you are down an inch from FULL using a pump will do nothing.
@@Hizenbird I used the method and it was as low as it would have gotten with the drain bolt. I'm not sure why yours has a plate. My dipstick goes right into the pan. I've used this method on my 01 Suburban, 03 Grand Marquis and 11 Town Car and it has worked fine, with just an inch of oil left in the pan.
@@UncleSarkis Perhaps the 2003 Tahoe is different. I could see the bottom of the dipstick in the pan. (because the bottom of the dipstick doesn't go deep into the pan) In the 2003 Tahoe it basically floats about an inch into the fluid with a bracket/plate covering the dipstick hole so that if something were to be dropped in that hole it wouldn't end up in the pan.
@@Hizenbird Or so no one can easily change their fluid. I have an 04 Yukon XL, I'm going to be changing the transmission fluid there too pretty soon, I'll update when I do. I did have to wiggle the house around to get it through all the way.
I had replaced solenoids in mine and at first when everything was put back on it was clean.. But after driving down the street and back and parked , came out couple hours later and it was leaking ??
I stripped out one of the hex screws that was holding on the bracket for the shift linkage, I ended using a pair of Knipex pliers to take that screw out. There is 2 of them but if you just take out the back one, you can easily move that bracket out of the way
I have 240k and I have a dain bolt on mine. Maybe I’ll just drain two qts and add two. I know I don’t want to change it all because they say don’t mess with it. But I think little by little would be good
Step 1 remove shift cable bracket - easy access from rear of truck liking at the tail end of transmission. Step 2 remove heat shield 2 10 MM bolts DONE
So I have the same truck with the same trans, and it started acting up after I had to let it sit for a week. Shifting from first to second is delayed and it slips going from second to third. My father thinks it could just be particles of some sort that settled into the filter from sitting there for a bit plugging it up slightly so it's not getting enough fluid. Just wondering if you think if changing the fluid and filter would fix my issue?
@@Rightwingcommentremoved yeah I fixed it. I opened it up to drain it and it turns out it had no filter at all, so I installed a filter and replaced the shift solenoids while I had it apart. Put new fluid in it and now it shifts better than it ever has
Can someone tell me how they knew they needed to do this? My rpms go up without shifting. I do not have reverse or any driving gear. Is my tranny done or does it simply need a fresh change?
Wouldn't advise it... On the other side of the factory bolt (when there is one) is a large nut welded to the pan, so the bolt has a lot of material to keep it in there. If you drill a hole through the pan which is not thick, I doubt you will be able to tighten enough to not leak.
Amazing video, but yall did too much extra stuff. Made it more complex than needed to be. All you have to do is take the staple clip out, pop the link off and then bend the link holder out of the way so the pan can drop down. Then when you're done it bends right back into place
That stinks. There is a way to get to the top bolts but it is a pain. You can always lower the transmission support in the rear to give yourself additional access
It is coming 👍👍 We have a video coming out soon explaining what side tracked us from finishing the series. Truck runs and will be dyno'd soon so we can get the series finished 🙏
Thank God we have guys like you who can change transmission fluid and filters. You have to have a lot of patience for that job. Kind of reminds me of back to school shopping with my wife and kids. No thank you!
I do my own but i do not feel that amazing haha, i definitely feel limited in my ability to tackle some jobs and am pretty slow
I did this 2 days ago and when I put it all back together 2 codes popped up..the dreaded P0700 transmission control module and the P0976 shift solenoid B control circuit low.
All I did was changed the filter and fluid and new gasket and these 2 rotten codes pull up...I have the fluid level perfect and when I drive it it has a slow 2-3 shift so that's one of the 2 solenoids on the backside of the trans case pan rail area.. I bought 2 new solenoids and will do them tomorrow but I didn't buy a pan with the drain plug so that's a drag.
We will see what happens tomorrow... I have cleared the codes with my hand held scanner and did the battery dis-connect and also the on-off the key and gas pedal and the codes keep coming back with the check engine light on.. Excellent video here.
Any update? I want to do this on my truck but I know it hasn’t been done on a regular basis and I’ve read online to leave it the way it is or else the new fluid might dislodge any old deposits.
If it's shifting ok don't do it my tranny got 385k I don't think it's ever been done has a hard shift to second ever now and again my old head from the holler changed his and boom transmission tore up he said do a bottle of Lucas so that's what I'm going try
@@joshhilmon6535 I need to replace the gasket because it’s leaking, maybe I’ll just do the gasket only and reuse the fluid
@@anthonydv0776 I thought about that too and replace filter oh I put a quart of Lucas in it no hard shifts yet knock on wood if your not towing in it or being rough on it I would say change it just make sure you don't over torque the pan bolts and I would use form a gasket on the bolts and gasket
@@joshhilmon6535 would you happen to know anyway to do it, because i really gotta do a rear main but im worried something like this is going to happen
Great video. Didn’t have to mess with the exhaust, but did remove passenger side heat shield and had to pry the shift cable bracket away to get the pan out and in. Needed two people to get it back up. Had a super hard time getting filter seal out. This job sucks doing it from the ground on a dirt driveway.
Having a lift is definitely a game changer. Glad you were able to get it done tho!
Oh boy this helps
I'm with you Mr. Black. It was a pain doing it on the ground on my dirt driveway as well. Broke a pan bolt off and then broke an extractor off in the stud. Finally got everything drilled out and a helicoil put in and got everything put back together. Hope I won't have to do it again anytime soon.
yes, that 2 10mm bolt heat shield needs to be removed, not exhaust bolts!
Thanks bro was having trouble with the whole thing. Read this and had the pan down in 2 minutes! Thanks my g
You make it look so easy. My brother was a transmission and diff specialist but last 6 years he was diagnosed with motor neuron disease? ( he can't feed himself) i know that i could do this as i saw him do it so many times! Im glad you had uploaded your video. That is awesome 👍.cheers from Australia subbed and liked ❤
I put the Amsoil ATF in my 2016 Silverado with the 6L80 transmission and man I am so impressed with the improvements in shifting! So glad I chose the Amsoil ATF...thanks for another great video!
Love it in our vehicles too! Glad you enjoyed it!
Smoother shifting?
@@mitchtrubisky999following
This Job is tough for some one to do alone! & not on a lift & I did not need to loosen any of the exhaust, I did remove the heat shield ( passenger side ) & used a big pair of channel locks to pry shifter linkage bracket back on the drive shaft & the pan will come out ( move shifter cable out of the way 1st ) this is a good video.
It isn't easy for sure. Really dumb design to have the shift linkage bracket block the pan. Glad you found the video helpful!
That is so true, I remember older GM's had the bracket with 2 bolts attached at the bottom of the pan, also I was working on a 03 Silverado Thank You for your reply@@TheSundaeDrive
I removed the rear shift bracket bolt, and loosened the front bracket bolt. This allowed bracket/cable assembly to swing out of the way for easy access.
These jobs are cake, been doing them since I was 15.
@@B_HarTz 32 😂 owned my business for 5 years
If you don't clean the transmission pan just draining wouldn't be sufficient, any sludge metal shavings etc. sticking to that magnet are going to stay for the most part so Cleaning it like this is more satisfactory!👍 Very interesting video!
I watched 1A Auto clip and looked easy but when I reached to mine noticed the bracket on the way and also the exhaust. I went back and watched their video and realized it's a different transmission set up! I was able to replace the filter with pan still hanging, didn't (couldn't) change the gasket and put everything back together. I was afraid the exhaust nuts become a nightmare! A great video!
What year was your truck? 4x4
@@brentcameron9590 2002 Sliverado Z71, limited slip
Tip that helped me: Rather than moving the exhaust to drop the pan, it's easier to loosen the transmission bolts on the crossmember and jack the transmission up a little bit for clearance
When dropping the pan, for an extra "hand" wedge in some old rags or shirts between the exhaust pipe and pan. It will hold it while taking out last bolts.
For those with the 2wd 2004 gmc yukon xl it's very easy. 16 Pan bolts 2 heat shield bolts shift link and shift link bracket bolts. Done. Changed the pan to 1 with a drain bolt. Drive around then drain and fill again and forget about it for another 4 years
03 sierra 1500 4.8 had the transmission rebuilt maybe 20.000 miles 3 years ago. It's leaking from the bolts. Any other place it maybe leaking from the top to tricIe down and make it look like a gasket leak? i want to change the gasket but getting discouraged
@quickchrome2012 I was too, but it's very easy. Just think to yourself, it's just a pan that holds fluid. And it's a 03... it's not like you are messing around with a 2023. Watch videos, do a walk through with tools to make sure you have everything and don't be a puss. Like having sex for the first time
Excellent video! About to do this job today, so thanks for the pointers!
Used this video too reference the drain and refill procedure on my 1997 Jaguar XJR6 that uses a GM 4L80E transmission. Very useful! Thanks!
When putting the pan back with new gasket, place a few bolts on the case with new gasket to help you keep that gasket in place and easier to set back on.
Makes a world of a difference when you are doing this alone in your garage and you don't have a fancy shop lift with a buddy like on this video.
Just did mine today. Pumped out most of the fluid with the cheap Harbor freight transfer pump.
Made a slide hammer out of 1/2 pipe and took out the filter gasket.
Didn't have to touch the shifter linkage. Slid the pan towards the passenger side and just angled the driver's side down a little and it came right out.
We remove gaskets the last 40 years with a scraper that has an exchangable razor blade and before , we warm the old gasket up with a heat gun and later a rotating brass wire brush on the battery drill . I made an impact driver tool on the lathe to put this new suction pipe seal in and I use a small slide hammer bearing puller to get the old seal out . Yes the exhaust pipe is in the way , well not all car designers are born and skilled in Germany.
Ha, Are you implying that German cars are easy to work on??? LoL
I always replace these with a pan that has a drain bolt on it
God's work
Yes
Where do you get them from?
@@jaydz7170Amazon
@@jaydz7170amazon..
Sir you did a excellent job. I do have a question if you don't mind. Since you did the drain and got 5 qts out and refill. Would you not want to do just a drain and refill once or twice more? Since the 4L-60E contains approx 11 qts there was more fluid in the torque converter and other parts of the transmission that was not replaced
I have an 05 1500 4x4 deep pan. Pump fluid out of fill line. Take off heat shield and shift linkage. Drop pan. Wiggle filter out. Clean pan. Done. I didn’t have to drop anything. Just a little effort moving the bracket
on cleaning the pan I've been doing it wrong for the last 40 or so yrs. I used an angle air grinder with a scuff pad to clear away the old gasket
Just be very careful doing it that way. Don't want to score the surface. Your way is way faster tho!
I just unbolted the shifter linkage bracket there's 2 t40 bolts holding it in. If you have a lift it's not very hard to get your head in the right spot to see them and remove the bracket. I didn't have to mess with any of the exhaust stuff just that bracket and the pan came out easily
I noticed you didn’t have to pull on the exhaust in order to re-install. Is it necessary to remove exhaust? I’ve never had a issue with it but I’ve also have never done it on a 4x4 which is why I ask.
you shouldn't have to touch the exhaust. changed the filter on a 2005 4x4 today, was pretty simple. didn't need to take anything off
I removed the bracket on my 03 z71 and pulled the exhaust bracket off but didn't have to yank on it also removed the heat shield on the opposite side of cable bracket worked well. Also I guess this guy doesn't have internet or an owners manual it takes 20qu or so per manual but there is still oil in the tran so unless u do a flush u should only need about half that u can find a 12 pack of 1 qu bottles on the cheap if ur not to picky about brand names and that will put at about 3gl
I have a 2009 4x4, and the only reason I'm here is to see how they got the shift linkage mount out of the way. Everything has been accessible and movable, all without power tools. the only thing that was keeping my pan from dropping was the linkage mount, which this is now the 3rd video I've watched that says just to pry it away to make room for pan drop other than that, no issues here.
Not a bad video - but a few things. 1, the gunk in the pan (while common) is not a good sign. 2, the pan gasket indicates that the fluid was changed before for some reason. That + the gunk = a rebuild will be not too far away for this transmission. 3, the filter should be more difficult to remove, and harder to install. The filter seal on this transmission is no good, it's probably hardening from heat and age - AND this seal should ALWAYS be replaced - no matter how hard it is to remove. A bad filter seal causes bubbles in the fluid, and that will cause over heating and eventual failure. Also, if you are going to change the fluid frequently - by dropping the pan - it is wise to invest about $40 for a rubber/silicon pan gasket with steel band in it. They are reusable, and last forever.
Those are good tips for sure. Appreciate the detailed response and definetely agree about the seal.
I thought we was supposed to change the tranny fluid lol
The paste is usually pretty normal when its just on the magnet. Its the chunks and shavings that are the issue. same thing goes for Diffs and manual gearboxes aswell.
I have 95 c1500 last time I looked I don't think I need to do too much to get clearance I have a cat back exhaust so it is more clearance thanks for the video
Awesome! Hopefully it is easier for you then!
In the event of a gouge ,remove any burs and add a little bit of rtv to the scratch before the gasket ,to hopefully create a good seal
Thanks for the tip!
@The Sundae Drive no problem man , your tutorial is awesome,good job man
Best way to remove the pan is to loosen up the transmission mounting bolts and use a jack to raise it up a little bit don't even have to touch the exhaust to take off transmission oil pan
i have 2007 chevy avalanche 4x4 i am going to try tommorow even though i got the passenger side exhaust bolts out,it is pain in the ass however see wath happens tommorow. but i also used pump to remove fluids less mess
Bud question real quick just did service on my 03 rcswb Silverado 2wd 1500 with tow haul package. Deep pan filter 4l60e and have lost 4th gear or od. I replaced o ring seal on with filter and I was wondering if I didn’t seat the filter all the way? I would think if I didn’t the pan wouldn’t have went back on bc it is so tight by the exhaust pipe.
Excellent. However, I would like for the camera to have a closeup on how to remove the obstacles that prevent removal of the pan. Fortunately, the pan on my GMC Yukon has a drain plug which makes removal of the pan less messy.
I've done several of these and always unbolted the transmission mount and raised the transmission by the tailshalf. Lot less work when you are doing flatrate
Did my 2wd tonight GMC with exhaust nuts loosened. PITA. I will try your method when I do my 4wd GMC next week. All you need is maybe an inch, so as long as the transfer case doesn't cause problems...Thx!
How many quarts did you put back in total? Doing this very project soon.
It will vary a little depending on how much drains. And how long it sits open. Best to measure how much comes out and refilling and checking level
Bolts on the top are easy when you take out front drive shaft haha. Figured it out on my own.
It’s a 45 torx
Lol good to know!
Great video thanks for posting. My pet peeve is seeing pine needles and leaves on the windshield intake area!!
Lol it is mine too. I could never live in the woods. Too many squirrels hiding nuts in the vehicle lol. I'll make sure Pete cleans it out next time ;)
So i just tried this but now i cant get my tahoe to go into gear. Any tips would be greatly appreciated 🙏.
Did you underfill the fluid potentially?
You never posted the video of changing the shift solenoids or torque converter?
Did you drain fluid first? Or just drained from removing pan?
No drain plug sadly.
Well explained and good footage. Thanks.
Thank you
You can also take the hooked end of a large wrecking bar and hook it over the loosened exhaust from the side. Jacking up or having a friend pull up on the other end sticking out to the side of the truck will use the frame as a fulcrum to lower the exhaust. I used the jack method as an extra set of hands and just left it in place until the job was done. Easy peasy.
In all these years I've never used a gasket remover or even recall it being a thing. May have tontry some if yours took 2 hours of prep time using gasket remover & a razor.
My Z71 sounded exactly like this one. The rocker arm tic annoyed me. Took off the valve covers broke down every single rocker arm,spring and rods cleaned all with Break cleaner flushed engine and it’s as quiet as a new car.
need to be careful running break fluid through an engine as it isn't good for seals and gaskets. Glad you motor is running better tho!
@@TheSundaeDrive probably should have just stuck with seafoam.
@@JohnSmith-xx1lx yeah seafoam or some marvel mystery oil. Sounds like slightly dirty lifters or rockers. A simple engine flush could have done it as well.
Sounds like he removed it all before cleaning with brake clean
@@shaneintegra well not the lifters and I'd rather clean it with a brush and MMO so it wouldn't risk anything g whatsoever damaging the seals of the engine later in life. Brake clean is very very not good to get in the oil system. But it's a Chevy so it will survive it anyways.
Well thank you for saving me alot of time...I rather send my truck to the tranny shop ....this looks like a really messy ordeal ....been wrenching for alot of years....and I try to avoid big messy jobs....I rather just pay the extra 100 bucks for a shop on a lift with two guys to change it....thank you for showing this video
No problem at all!
In the description, you've recommended ACDelco ATF (10-9395), would you not recommend ACDelco full synthetic ATF (10-9244)?
What about all the fluid thats still in the transmission my Silverado holds 11 quarts but its a z71 if i drop the pan and just replace what was in the pan thats not even half of the transmission fluid getting changed
I never seen you put on the new gasket?
Amsoil motor oil is good. I've had very good expirnece with Castrol High Mileage ATF or even their regular trans fluid. I'll have to find amsoil atf and try it.
I like it for sure
my pan for a chevy Tahoe 2003 has a SCREW on the transmission pan, my question is if is recommended to take off to remove the oil from there and then remove all the screws.
Yes! That’s what it’s for!
Excellent video
Not sure pulling down on the exhaust is a great idea, may end up doing some damage to the manifold creating leaks or breaking something. Sometimes you got to take the time and do it the right way.
We had tried - nuts/bolts were rusted bad so this was the lesser of two evils.
Curious instead of ducking with the exhaust why not unbolt the tail of tranny and jack it up would that give enough clearance?
Starts to compress the wires and cables on top of the transmission I believe but haven't tried that way to be sure.
@@TheSundaeDrive i didn't try it but instead of unbolting flanges I used the board and ratchet strap to pull exhaust down enough and I have to unbolt front driveshaft to get that shifter bracket enough clearance to bend it outta the way to get pan down!
While you have the pan out you should add a drain plug!
Next time 😉 but definitely a good idea
@Douglas Nathan never heard a single good review on those doorman ones
I replaced the pan with one that has a drain plug in it .
I had one on my old truck it always had a bubble of fluid on the nut
The strap around the exhaust saved my ass. Dont have to blast the manifold bolts, just dont over crank the strap
Yeah those bolts get rusty for sure. as long as you don't kill the strap it works nicely
Where did you add the fluid? That would be kind of important, hello? Do you add at the same place You checked the level?
Yes that's correct! You add from the dipstick tube.
Wanting to do this to my 2006 Silverado with 140,000k mileage. I heard it’s not a good idea to change transmission fluid with high mileage, as it may create slipping with clean transmission fluid. Any help?
You should be fine boss man. I just changed mine at 190k and boy was it dirty. Once I changed it shifting was noticeable faster/smoother. I drive an 01 Tahoe
@@Candybuiltsi thank you for your feedback, much appreciated. God bless
Fine to drain pan and replace filter…..don’t flush the transmission….in other words just replace fluid from pan, don’t try to flush the torque converter…..
Guess I should add, you can drain the pan multiple times after driving it at least a few miles.if you want to have mostly all new fluid.
@chrizflorez2425 I've been contemplating changing my transmission fluid for the 1st time on my 04 Sierra with 215,000 miles. I don't think it's having any problems shifting and every time I check the fluid, it looks great. I've had plenty of experience with fixing things that weren't broken, only to have to fix them again soon after.
Wow!!! I did this by myself threaded a drain plug ,so u don't have this problem...good job all 4 of u...hahahahahaha
I did this now my truck is in limp mode :/ with a 2-3 gear solenoid code :/. Could it be the solenoid or new trans?
Will take 4 total shift solenoids. 2 are the same part# you can buy at any auto store and other 2 u can get on Amazon. Watch his other video on how to do it. Took me 4 hours to do
I changed my filter and fluid and the check engine light came on...I cleared the code and for now it's ok.
Do I have to blow out the trans lines when doing a fluid change ?
What is the proper way to check Trans fluid on 2005 chevrolet silverado 1500 5.3 rwd Non 4x4....
Did y'all use rtv sealant?
exelente video,.
Podrías hacer un vídeo de cambiar el aceite del tranfer del 4x4 porfa
Thank you! At some point we will for sure.
What's type gasket did you use when you reinstalled the transmission pan?
It's in the description but here is the link for you: geni.us/4L60Filter_Gasket
Great
No problem!
Pump the fluid out through the dipstick before taking off the bolts. Get a pump from harbor freight, the cheap ones for like 6.99 without coupon.
Definitely a good option.
The tube will only go so far into the transmission fluid. there is a metal plate at the bottom of the where the dip stick goes so that if you put something in there it would not go to the bottom of the pan. You could probably remove about an inch of transmission fluid if it was full. If you are down an inch from FULL using a pump will do nothing.
@@Hizenbird I used the method and it was as low as it would have gotten with the drain bolt. I'm not sure why yours has a plate. My dipstick goes right into the pan. I've used this method on my 01 Suburban, 03 Grand Marquis and 11 Town Car and it has worked fine, with just an inch of oil left in the pan.
@@UncleSarkis Perhaps the 2003 Tahoe is different. I could see the bottom of the dipstick in the pan. (because the bottom of the dipstick doesn't go deep into the pan) In the 2003 Tahoe it basically floats about an inch into the fluid with a bracket/plate covering the dipstick hole so that if something were to be dropped in that hole it wouldn't end up in the pan.
@@Hizenbird Or so no one can easily change their fluid. I have an 04 Yukon XL, I'm going to be changing the transmission fluid there too pretty soon, I'll update when I do.
I did have to wiggle the house around to get it through all the way.
I had replaced solenoids in mine and at first when everything was put back on it was clean.. But after driving down the street and back and parked , came out couple hours later and it was leaking ??
Very complete video!
Do they make a replacement pan with a bolt?
Yes they do. There are a few options
I stripped out one of the hex screws that was holding on the bracket for the shift linkage, I ended using a pair of Knipex pliers to take that screw out. There is 2 of them but if you just take out the back one, you can easily move that bracket out of the way
I have 240k and I have a dain bolt on mine. Maybe I’ll just drain two qts and add two. I know I don’t want to change it all because they say don’t mess with it. But I think little by little would be good
Torque spec for exhaust nuts were not in the description,can anyone fill that info in?
Appreciate for this video so I can do myself 🙏🏽🙏🏽
Love hearing that!
Will you suggest doing this same process on a same vehicle but with 153000 miles on it?
Great job man
Thanks! Hope it helps you out!
Thank you!
No problem!
Rubber hammer is good to break the pan seal after removing bolts.
Good tip!
On an 05 you will need a deep pan filter, hopefully I save some else from makeing 2 trips to the parts store.
God dang I literally just got the flat pan before I watched this video😂
TF320 shallow pan TF351 deep pan parts number your welcome
Thanks!
@@williamsawesome do you have an amazon link to the tf351 deep pan fliter with gasket?
Step 1 remove shift cable bracket - easy access from rear of truck liking at the tail end of transmission. Step 2 remove heat shield 2 10 MM bolts DONE
Good tip! Definetely the better way to do it!
Shift solenoids video coming soon???
Yea that’s pretty much done with editing! Thanks for the reminder haha
THANK YOU
Your welcome!
Did you use anything to attach the new gasket to the pan?
use fresh motor oil
I am Like number 666.The Number of the BEAST.
So I have the same truck with the same trans, and it started acting up after I had to let it sit for a week. Shifting from first to second is delayed and it slips going from second to third. My father thinks it could just be particles of some sort that settled into the filter from sitting there for a bit plugging it up slightly so it's not getting enough fluid. Just wondering if you think if changing the fluid and filter would fix my issue?
Any luck with this,I'm having the exact same problem with my truck
@@Rightwingcommentremoved yeah I fixed it. I opened it up to drain it and it turns out it had no filter at all, so I installed a filter and replaced the shift solenoids while I had it apart. Put new fluid in it and now it shifts better than it ever has
@@willteichroeb how many solenoids are up there?
@@Petem7668 only two
@@willteichroeb got it. I appreciate the quick response
Torque spec on the exhaust flange?
Its in the manual
1ST VIDEO I HAVE SEEN WITH SOMEBODY WEARING A WATCH AND 👨🔧 🔧🛠 ( NEVER START A NUT WITH A DRIVER!!!)
Lol yeah, I've broken a watch working on a car
How many miles did the truck have on it?
Can someone tell me how they knew they needed to do this? My rpms go up without shifting. I do not have reverse or any driving gear. Is my tranny done or does it simply need a fresh change?
Awesome
U Didnt show putting on new gasket for pan.
Could you just drill a hole in the bottom of the drip pan and plug it with a sheet metal screw/rubber washer?
Wouldn't advise it... On the other side of the factory bolt (when there is one) is a large nut welded to the pan, so the bolt has a lot of material to keep it in there. If you drill a hole through the pan which is not thick, I doubt you will be able to tighten enough to not leak.
I agree with @Hizenbird.
Amazing video, but yall did too much extra stuff. Made it more complex than needed to be. All you have to do is take the staple clip out, pop the link off and then bend the link holder out of the way so the pan can drop down. Then when you're done it bends right back into place
Could this fix my Transmission pump whining?
The whole reason i watched this was to see how to replace the filter bushing that you didnt replace.. so thanks i guess
All you do is complain. You don't need replace it.
Why not drain the pan first ?
Why not just pump most of the oil with a cheap harbor freaight hand pump (seven bucks) before lowering the pan To get the rest?
When I do mine I'm getting a whole new pan with a drain plug
Good idea!
I lost the staple where can I get it?
The braket on my single cab is more in the way, probably because its a single cab, i cant seem to take it off
That stinks. There is a way to get to the top bolts but it is a pain. You can always lower the transmission support in the rear to give yourself additional access
Try a fluid extractor, before cracking the pan loose and making such a mess.
Torque for bolt transmission
This man is bold doing this with that ice on his wrist 🤣
😂😂😂
What happened to the 2015 Silverado programming video
It is coming 👍👍 We have a video coming out soon explaining what side tracked us from finishing the series. Truck runs and will be dyno'd soon so we can get the series finished 🙏
What a pain in the ass lol, I just did my ford fusion and it was just a drain plug.
Idk why they don't all have plugs. No sense but I guess it probably saves them a couple bucks on each car lol
Steel brushes would’ve saved you a ton of time on the gasket removal
Need to be careful to not scratch the surface. Definitely makes it faster but could cause damage.
Where are the torque specs?
Should be in description. Did Pete forget to add them?