Very different to how ridges and hips are bedded here in Australia. All the ridge and hip tiles are secured with the cement and then flexible pointing is applied on top to prevent cracking and allow for thermal expansion and contraction.
Thanks for nice video. Is the mortar water proof? Also what is the name of adhesive to join the hip tiles in a row followed by the Ridge tile if no nails being used?
Interesting; My tile roof is about 20 years old. My roof is leaking although I've repaired all the broken tiles. I live in California in the central valley. Temps here are regularly above 100 degrees. After watching the video I looked closer at my roof. I don't find a single tile that has been nailed. There is no mortar, sign of adhesive, or nails on any of the ridge tiles. My tiles are "S" style. I am contemplating removing tiles in leaking areas and repairing the underlayment myself. After watching this video I am perplexed about whether I need to mortar my ridge line on this 1970 ranch style house. Is there a best practice for beginning a repair like this? I mean, where should I start looking for the damaged underlayment. I've been in the attic and I couldn't determine where the leak came from. A leak on the ridge line above the garage I temporarily repaired with a tin foil platter...
To find the damage underlayment remove the tiles above the leak area approximately 10ft x 10ft. Remove the underlayment and you should find the wood stained. Follow the stained wood until you find the source. If your having multiple leaks it may make sense to try to replace all the underlayment.
@@RoofRepairSpecialist Thank you. This is helpful. I was up there this morning and I have a couple of vents where the flashing metal is bent and the tiles out of alignment. This is the only problem area I see.They are close to the top and my leak that is soiling the inside sealing is near the bottom but the water could have traveled down the rafter that far. 10' is reasonable and in alignment with the vents up there. Maybe I will start looking about 10' from the damaged area and see what I see. I spent a few hours cleaning tree debris and found on the other side, South side, about 5 tiles that need to be repaired. One completely crumpled under my foot. Thank you again for your reply.
How do you install and design the first ridge piece? Let me know!
Super helpful,super useful.Thanks your kindness in posting>really.Peaceful moments to you and Yours.
Same to you!
Very different to how ridges and hips are bedded here in Australia. All the ridge and hip tiles are secured with the cement and then flexible pointing is applied on top to prevent cracking and allow for thermal expansion and contraction.
Ya, I’ve noticed, I have family who lives in Australia, I helped them repair a roof during a trip out there. Totally different
Thanks for nice video. Is the mortar water proof? Also what is the name of adhesive to join the hip tiles in a row followed by the Ridge tile if no nails being used?
Thanks, Mortar is not 100% water proof, water will seep behind it. You can use whatever is in your local market. We use Chemlink & M1.
Thanks for the videos! What kind of mortar do you use? Also, do you use a 2x8 for the hip board and a 2x6 for the ridge board?
We use spec mix
And depending on the tile and pitch we decide a board to use, there is not really a standard. But 2x6 is most common
Question , how do you install the 2x6 , with ridge brackets or just nails ? Thanks for your time
We just use nails at a angle. Often called toe nailing
@@RoofRepairSpecialist thank you
Very good can you do a 2 piece clay tile video if installation
I have a few. You can check them out. Let me know if there is a specific detail your looking for.
@@RoofRepairSpecialist how to start doing your lines for bird stop
Interesting; My tile roof is about 20 years old. My roof is leaking although I've repaired all the broken tiles. I live in California in the central valley. Temps here are regularly above 100 degrees. After watching the video I looked closer at my roof. I don't find a single tile that has been nailed. There is no mortar, sign of adhesive, or nails on any of the ridge tiles. My tiles are "S" style. I am contemplating removing tiles in leaking areas and repairing the underlayment myself. After watching this video I am perplexed about whether I need to mortar my ridge line on this 1970 ranch style house. Is there a best practice for beginning a repair like this? I mean, where should I start looking for the damaged underlayment. I've been in the attic and I couldn't determine where the leak came from. A leak on the ridge line above the garage I temporarily repaired with a tin foil platter...
To find the damage underlayment remove the tiles above the leak area approximately 10ft x 10ft. Remove the underlayment and you should find the wood stained. Follow the stained wood until you find the source. If your having multiple leaks it may make sense to try to replace all the underlayment.
@@RoofRepairSpecialist Thank you. This is helpful. I was up there this morning and I have a couple of vents where the flashing metal is bent and the tiles out of alignment. This is the only problem area I see.They are close to the top and my leak that is soiling the inside sealing is near the bottom but the water could have traveled down the rafter that far. 10' is reasonable and in alignment with the vents up there. Maybe I will start looking about 10' from the damaged area and see what I see. I spent a few hours cleaning tree debris and found on the other side, South side, about 5 tiles that need to be repaired. One completely crumpled under my foot.
Thank you again for your reply.