Thank you! I've been a solvent-paint user for many years, but lately I noticed I've noticed my tolerance for the solvents has been decreasing as I get older, even wearing a mask. I bought some of AMMO's paints in hopes of minimizing my exposure to solvents but I've been unable to lay down a smooth finish using these paints even just misting the coats. Maybe its my technique from spraying solvent-based paint for years but I don't get anywhere near the smooth coat everyone seems to get on these how to spray AMMO paint videos. I'm gonna give your homebrew thinner a shot as I'm desperate to make these paints work out for me.
"Liked" the video but therein lies the problem. You can get nice results with Ammo by Mig paints but it's a slower more tedious process compared to Tamiya or Aqueous for example. Painting a spoon is one thing but a larger scale model is considerably more time consuming breaking the "surface tension." Excellent video though for those who have struggled with these paints.
Hi Melvin Johnson, glad you liked the video. I think however you might have miss-understood the spoon demonstration. It was to show you can't blast acrylics like with enamels or lacquers. But this does not in anyway impact the time needed to airbrush a large model. If you prime the model, you can go in heavier with the airbrushing (as I mentioned in the video). If you look at my 1/32 Bf-109 build video, I was able to do to paint and weather, the entire kit in about 30/40 minutes. I am also including the masking in that time. I have been using acrylics for about 10 years now and I can honestly say there is no difference in time, using acrylics or solvent based paints.
Thank you for the video! I'm new when it comes to modeling and airbrushing and I just ordered a large package with a lot of paints and pigments from Ammo :)
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 I recently started painting with them with airbrush, for now straight from the bottle. Which way do you prefer: dilute with thinner or straight from the bottle? If the thinned version, what pressure do you mostly use?
@@Amarok347 I recommend thinning the paints with my thinner mixture formula. While these paints are airbrush ready....that really depends on a lot of factors, in particular the weather on where you live. So best to thin the paints first. For acrylics you want to use lower pressure around 15 to 25 depending on how much you have thinned the paint. I don't recommend airbrushing acrylics above 25psi or you risk getting orange peel effects. In the video I use about 18-20 psi. Hope this helps!
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Thank you! I want to upgrade my airbrush (H&S Ultra 2 in 1 currently) for Iwata HP-C Plus 0.3mm. Will it be the best option for this price?
@@Amarok347 The Iwata HP-C plus is a fantastic airbrush. I am not sure where you live, but in the US the HP-C can be very expensive. But it is a very high end airbrush and you use it for fine detail painting for models. If you are looking for a high end airbrush you might also look at Harder Steenbeck Infinity Plus. I would keep the H&S Ultra as your general purpose airbrush and back up. One trick I found to get good deals on airbrushes, is to look on Facebook Market Place. People sell their airbrushes for half the price you will find at the store. Hope this helps.
Great video. got good results now with the ammo paints using airbrush, but with a brush the paint is clogging up really fast ?! Do you also use a thinner when using a brush?
Dave, glad you like the video. For brush painting, I did use the thinner formula to keep the paint wet longer. If you do a lot of brush painting, I recommend getting a wet palette. It will change how to hand paint things. I recommend checking out some Gundam and figure painting videos. Those modelers have mastered hand painting techniques.
Awesome video! I will definitely have to consider Ammo paints now. Would you mind going into detail on your cleaning solution? What do you mean by simple concentrate?
Hey glad the video was helpful to you! As far as your question about the cleaning solution. There is a natural cleaner you can pick up from your Walmart call “Simply Green”. It comes in two versions, regular and “concentrate”. The bottle that says “concentrate” is the one you want. Mix it with 50/50 with hot water. If you want a stronger cleaning formula you can do 75% simple green to 25% water. This cleaning solution is great with acrylic paints. Even if the paint is dry, you can let the airbrush sit in the solution and clean later. Hope that helps!
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 In UK I've found Simply Green concentrate on Amazon @ £16 for 10L. There are also lots of ads for 'Simple Green' which doesn't appear to be the same thing
Hi, just stumbled up on this video. I use mig paints and they are OK. The issue I have with them that colour turns dark almost black in airbrush cup while I'm painting. Did use also migs thinner.
Hi Vladan, glad you like the video. As far as your question, no I did not use mig thinners. I created a lecture formula of my own for airbrushing acrylic paint. If you go on my channel you can see the video. As far as the problems with Mig paints you are referring to.. it sounds like you are not properly mixing the paint. Make sure you shake the hell out of the paint bottle. Get a vortex mixer and that helps a lot. If that does solve the problem…your paint might be bad. You may want to reach out to Ammo and see if they can replace the bottles.
Are they good for brush too? How do you think they compare to vallejo model color? Edit: LOL didnt watche the entire video before commenting. However, would still love to know how they compare to vallejo model color (not model air) haha. Good video m8
Hey, glad you like the video. Regarding your question….Model Color is much better for brush painting. The pigment count is much higher in Model Color and you need that for better brush painting.
Hi RD, the formula is in my channel under the video called “How to airbrush Vallejo Model paints”. The mixture formula is 90% liquid and 10% retarder. The liquid portion is 70% Vallejo flow improver + 30% Vallejo thinner.
Thank you! I've been a solvent-paint user for many years, but lately I noticed I've noticed my tolerance for the solvents has been decreasing as I get older, even wearing a mask.
I bought some of AMMO's paints in hopes of minimizing my exposure to solvents but I've been unable to lay down a smooth finish using these paints even just misting the coats.
Maybe its my technique from spraying solvent-based paint for years but I don't get anywhere near the smooth coat everyone seems to get on these how to spray AMMO paint videos. I'm gonna give your homebrew thinner a shot as I'm desperate to make these paints work out for me.
Gunpla, I switched to acrylic paints for the same reason. Let me known if you need any help or have any questions. I’m happy to help if you need.
"Liked" the video but therein lies the problem. You can get nice results with Ammo by Mig paints but it's a slower more tedious process compared to Tamiya or Aqueous for example. Painting a spoon is one thing but a larger scale model is considerably more time consuming breaking the "surface tension." Excellent video though for those who have struggled with these paints.
Hi Melvin Johnson, glad you liked the video. I think however you might have miss-understood the spoon demonstration. It was to show you can't blast acrylics like with enamels or lacquers. But this does not in anyway impact the time needed to airbrush a large model. If you prime the model, you can go in heavier with the airbrushing (as I mentioned in the video). If you look at my 1/32 Bf-109 build video, I was able to do to paint and weather, the entire kit in about 30/40 minutes. I am also including the masking in that time. I have been using acrylics for about 10 years now and I can honestly say there is no difference in time, using acrylics or solvent based paints.
Thank you for the video! I'm new when it comes to modeling and airbrushing and I just ordered a large package with a lot of paints and pigments from Ammo :)
Glad I could help. Feel free to reach out if you have any questions
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 I recently started painting with them with airbrush, for now straight from the bottle. Which way do you prefer: dilute with thinner or straight from the bottle? If the thinned version, what pressure do you mostly use?
@@Amarok347 I recommend thinning the paints with my thinner mixture formula. While these paints are airbrush ready....that really depends on a lot of factors, in particular the weather on where you live. So best to thin the paints first. For acrylics you want to use lower pressure around 15 to 25 depending on how much you have thinned the paint. I don't recommend airbrushing acrylics above 25psi or you risk getting orange peel effects. In the video I use about 18-20 psi. Hope this helps!
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Thank you! I want to upgrade my airbrush (H&S Ultra 2 in 1 currently) for Iwata HP-C Plus 0.3mm. Will it be the best option for this price?
@@Amarok347 The Iwata HP-C plus is a fantastic airbrush. I am not sure where you live, but in the US the HP-C can be very expensive. But it is a very high end airbrush and you use it for fine detail painting for models. If you are looking for a high end airbrush you might also look at Harder Steenbeck Infinity Plus. I would keep the H&S Ultra as your general purpose airbrush and back up.
One trick I found to get good deals on airbrushes, is to look on Facebook Market Place. People sell their airbrushes for half the price you will find at the store. Hope this helps.
Great video. got good results now with the ammo paints using airbrush, but with a brush the paint is clogging up really fast ?! Do you also use a thinner when using a brush?
Dave, glad you like the video. For brush painting, I did use the thinner formula to keep the paint wet longer. If you do a lot of brush painting, I recommend getting a wet palette. It will change how to hand paint things. I recommend checking out some Gundam and figure painting videos. Those modelers have mastered hand painting techniques.
Awesome video! I will definitely have to consider Ammo paints now. Would you mind going into detail on your cleaning solution? What do you mean by simple concentrate?
Hey glad the video was helpful to you! As far as your question about the cleaning solution. There is a natural cleaner you can pick up from your Walmart call “Simply Green”. It comes in two versions, regular and “concentrate”. The bottle that says “concentrate” is the one you want. Mix it with 50/50 with hot water. If you want a stronger cleaning formula you can do 75% simple green to 25% water. This cleaning solution is great with acrylic paints. Even if the paint is dry, you can let the airbrush sit in the solution and clean later.
Hope that helps!
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 In UK I've found Simply Green concentrate on Amazon @ £16 for 10L. There are also lots of ads for 'Simple Green' which doesn't appear to be the same thing
Hi, just stumbled up on this video. I use mig paints and they are OK. The issue I have with them that colour turns dark almost black in airbrush cup while I'm painting. Did use also migs thinner.
Hi Vladan, glad you like the video. As far as your question, no I did not use mig thinners. I created a lecture formula of my own for airbrushing acrylic paint. If you go on my channel you can see the video.
As far as the problems with Mig paints you are referring to.. it sounds like you are not properly mixing the paint. Make sure you shake the hell out of the paint bottle. Get a vortex mixer and that helps a lot. If that does solve the problem…your paint might be bad. You may want to reach out to Ammo and see if they can replace the bottles.
What does your thinner consist of?
Hi, you can go to my video on the thinner formula here: th-cam.com/video/OYyfKPouFCQ/w-d-xo.html
Are they good for brush too? How do you think they compare to vallejo model color?
Edit: LOL didnt watche the entire video before commenting. However, would still love to know how they compare to vallejo model color (not model air) haha. Good video m8
Hey, glad you like the video. Regarding your question….Model Color is much better for brush painting. The pigment count is much higher in Model Color and you need that for better brush painting.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 okk, thanks for the comment!
What’s in your mixture formula?
Hi RD, the formula is in my channel under the video called “How to airbrush Vallejo Model paints”.
The mixture formula is 90% liquid and 10% retarder. The liquid portion is 70% Vallejo flow improver + 30% Vallejo thinner.
@@arewethereyetmodeling2196thank you