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@@Michu32421 if you mean total time with building from start to finish, probably like 5-6 hours (excluding all the breaks I took, paint drying etc) If you’re asking just the painting and finish process, without breaks, about 40 mins.

@@CYPRUS008044 glad you like the video and the mixture formula!

Hi, so I have a video on my channel on how to use the thinner mixture with acrylic primers. I showcase the thinner mixture with Badger primer and Vallejo primer. The thinner mixture works fantastic with acrylic primers. I recommend 70% primer to 30% thinner mixture. The mixture will help the primers airbrush better, reduce tip drying and clogging. It also leaves a smooth finish. But the best part is, if you use the thinner mixture with Vallejo primers. It solves the main problems people complain about with Vallejo primers. Vallejo primers tend to lift and gum-up when sanding. To avoid this you have literally let the primer dry for a minimum of 24-48 hours or more. If you use the thinner mixture and letting the primer dry for an hour, it will cure. You can then sand it without it gumming up, it will feather out really nice, and it won't lift up if you tape over it.

Hi, if you plan to wait up to 24-48 hours for the primers to dry, then you don't need to add Future or my thinner mixture when brush painting the primer. The reason to add in Future or my thinner mixture (which you can find on my channel), is to help the primer airbrush better and become more resilient. One of the biggest issues is that if you attempt to sand vallejo primer before it has fully cured, it will gum up on itself and lift. You can avoid that by giving it plenty of time to dry. I personally don't have that level of patience thus I use either Future or thinner mixture to help it dry and cure in 50 mins. Then I can sand it and it will not lift either.

Hey glad to hear it worked for you! People don’t believe me when I tell them using this formula you can get fine lines, no tip drying, and great atomization of paint. Also hello to a fellow Sotar user. Love the Sotar and I use it for fine detail work.

Hey, so Tamiya X-22 is a gloss varnish. If you’re going for a flat look, you would need to use Tamiya XF-86 Flat clear not X-22.

You are absolutely correct. I didn't fully point that out in the video. Even with acrylics you still need to take precautions. However, lacquers health wise are still much much more harmful.

@ it’s more about the resins and the pigments you are spraying and atomizing. You don’t want any of that hitting your lungs. The actual color or paint solvents and carriers, smelly or not, matter much less, unless of course you breathe those in on a regular basis. Wear a mask for anything resin pigment based, wear a respirator for all organic solvents.

Hey, just read your message. Yes, same techniques for Vallejo Model Color (I think that is what you are asking about). I have a video on how to use the mixture formula on Model Color on my channel. I recommend checking it out. One thing to note is to give the Model Color more time to dry before masking over. With Vallejo Model air, I can mask over in about 15-20 mins. I would give Model Color at least 1 hour. Regarding the temperature question....you want to store acrylics room temperature if possible or at the very least try not to go below 55 degrees (that has been my experience). If they get to cold, the paint becomes a chalky mess. Hope that helps!

Great info, thanks so much

@@mkmac3 glad I can help. Feel free to reach out anytime if you have any questions.

@@lonotalonota5779 doh! Live and learn

Hey, congrats on your soon to be airbrush birthday gift. So first thing, do you know yet if the airbrush will come with a compressor? If so, then there is usually a PSI regulator with a dial on the compressor and turn the knob lowers or raises the PSI. But if it doesn't come with a compressor and instead a compressed can of air.....that is much harder to figure out. It doesn't have a regulator on it....it becomes a bit harder to figure out. Let me know which airbrush you get for your bday. I have over 50 airbrushes and I can help guide you on your particular airbrush.

@ I’m not sure if it’s a very good airbrush but it had good reviews. It does come with a compressor. I think 40 psi. It’s called the Gocheer Airbrush Kit. Not sure if it’s a legit one. Just one to get me by for a little.

@@ItzNick16 Nice, it is a good starting airbrush. I assume you are going to airbrushing Vallejo paints? Do you plan to airbrush Vallejo Model Air (which are formulated for airbrushing) or do you plan to airbrush Vallejo Model Color (which is formulated for brush painting and the video you commented on). I recommend watching this video to get an idea of your new airbrush. Plus there are more videos out there you check out. Also for the first time, don't start with paint, use water (if you can, add in some food coloring to the water so you can see the spray pattern more easily) to test your airbrush and play with the PSI on your compressor. th-cam.com/video/ZxxBHN8CdoQ/w-d-xo.html

@ Thanks so much!

@@ItzNick16 you're welcome. Feel free to reach out anytime with questions.

@@alexfly01 hi yes, all you need to do is add in an acrylic gloss. When I want to make my paint glossy I add in a drop or two of Future or I will use Alclad Aqua gloss. I thin the paint with my formula, then add in a drop or two of gloss. Mix it together. Don’t add to much gloss or the paint will be runny. Lastly, when airbrushing gloss paint…reduce the air pressure to 12-15 psi.

@@Shooter_FPV thank you, glad you like the video. Yes model air is airbrush ready. But the thing is, paint is tested in a lab with specific conditions. Unless you have those exact conditions in your hobby room…you will always need to adjust your paint to get the best results. No matter the paint. And yes, the formula works on model color. I have a video on my channel for thinning model color with the mixture formula.

Hi, it’s not. Tamiya is an alcohol based acrylic paint. So it sticks better than water based acrylics. But I always recommend primers. They give the paint something to hold on to, they make the model uniform, and most importantly they help reveal flaws.

@arewethereyetmodeling2196 can tamiya primer be applied through brushes? i see bottle glass of tamiya primer available on market and why aclohol based acrylic paint sticks better than water based acrylic paints?

@ Tamiya primer can be applied by brush. But if you watch the figure modeling community, they brush paint primer and prefer acrylic primer for brush. I think it’s because it’s more easily brush-able than lacy primers. As far as alcohol based vs water based sticking better. It’s just the properties of the paint. Water based under biting into the plastic.

@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 thanks a lot and i have another question for 3d printed models,is it necessary to apply a layer of primer before painting them with tamiya paints? i think 3d printed models are different from traditional plastic models ,especially on the materials they producted

@@junhaogu-ee8wh so much like resin, 3d printed parts or kits, you want to wash prior to painting and you don't have to prime. But honestly, I recommend you prime. It will reveal any flaws. Your eyes won't catch the small flaws.

Hey, glad you liked the video! Regarding the your questions: 1) So there are 3 parts to airbrushing: PSI, Paint thinning, and Temperature. Temperature isn't really major unless you in extreme areas. When it is colder, typically you don't need to thin your paint as much. For hotter temperature you will most likely need to thin more. For 10 to 15 degrees, the paint will still spray but you probably won't need to thin your paint as much. I would say try 60/40 or even 70/30 paint to thinner at 10 to 15 degrees Celsius. My other recommendation would be to let your air compressor run for 5 mins before airbrushing to get everything warmed up a bit. 2) You can use this mixture on all water-based acrylics. So if you are talking about Ak 1st or 3rd gen water-based acrylics then yes (I have tested this mixture with both). Mr. Aqueous is an acrylic paint but not a water-based acrylic. So you can't use it with that. 3) For varnishes I don't recommend using the mixture. They have some stuff in them that makes them sticky. If you are using Vallejo premium flat or gloss, thin it with vallejo thinner at 50/50 and 12-15 psi. Light coats. and this is very important.....for both of them, let them cure for AT least 24 hours. Hope this helps! Feel free to reach out if you have more questions.

@@beano9343 I believe you are correct on the addictive. But I think for brush painting it’s just better to go with a “water-based” acrylic. And yes Tamiya paints are “acrylics” but not a “water-based” acrylics. Acrylic is a general term term , but acrylic can be made with solvents such as alcohol…like Tamiya.

@@drithen yes, I thin Vallejo Model air as well. For best results you will need to thin accordingly. On my channel I have a video on my thinner mixture and how I thin model air. I recommend checking it out.

@@drithen wow, thank you for the kind words. I’m glad my video was useful to you.

It is superior. It is had a mild retarder, which prevents tip drying and levels the paint for a smooth finish. But if you can’t find Mr hobby thinner, you can also use regular lacquer thinner from your hardware store. Lacquer thinner works really well. Just make sure to use proper safety measures.

Try AK intermediate gauzy agent, for metallic finishes it’s even better than Aqua Gloss.

I’m glad you liked the video! I hope these tips help you with your Vallejo.

Hey, just saw your message. Thank you, glad you like the video. And....you just hit the nail on the head, it is the CAG bird and so it was probably kept in nice condition. Every photo of this aircraft was fairly clean. But the other aircraft in the squadron were dirty and some very very dirty.

@@DEADIKATED no, you can apply Vallejo primers by brush. I highly recommend checking out fantasy figure modeling videos. Those modelers mostly brush paint and primarily use Vallejo primers.

@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 awesome thx

Sorry for belated reply. I have a new update video, that covers this better. But it is 10 drops of retarder. Basically the formula is 7 parts thinner, 3 parts flow improver, 1 part retarder. Hope this helps!

Sorry, do you actually mean 7 parts flow improver, 3 parts thinner and 1 part retarder?

@@a386511 yes, sorry I wrote it backwards. 7 parts flow improve, 3 parts thinner, 1 part retarder. You don't need to be super accurate with the retarder but you absolutely need to add all 3 components for best results.

@@arewethereyetmodeling2196What I don’t understand is if you have made a better video on this subject why is this one still up?

@@bebopkirbyhey, bring this is my first video to start my channel. TH-cam won’t let me delete the video.

Very welcome, thanks for watching!

@@fullmetaljacket510 I really recommend adding in the retarder. Combined together it will make the paint more resilient and prevent tip drying for long-term airbrushing

@@DanielGomez-io5bx my favorite for gloss are AK intermediate guazy agent and Alclad Aqua Gloss. Both are acrylic, you use them straight from the bottle, low psi at 12-15, should go on wet. For flat varnish, I really like Vallejo premium flat varnish and Tamiya flat varnish. Both I think are really nice and don’t leave a dead flat, I don’t like a dead flat to my models.

@@jowe8039 glad I could help!

@@PlasticPilotR hi, yes that is correct. It’s very good for metallic finishes and for gloss coat for non-metallic finishes for decals and washes.

@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 Thank you!

Hi, the mixture formula video is in my channel. It’s labeled how to airbrush Vallejo model air. The mixture formula I created works on ALL water based acrylics.

Hi, so I never paint straight out of the bottle. Yes manufacturers claim paints are airbrush ready out of the bottle. But remember these paints were tested in particular conditions in a laboratory. Unless you have those exact conditions in your hobby room, I recommend thinning for best results.

@@luispablo39 thank you, glad you like!

Ha, we might have a problem

@@gunplaf thank you!

@@leeedsonetwo glad you like.

Hi John, so to your first few points. Yes, I do not adhere to some of the "common" airbrush principles. I think some of it based on outdated information. I used to work as a professional airbrush artist and in my training, we went over why/how to do certain things. Of course there is always some nuance to everything. But for modeling purposes, I recommend trying the techniques I shared. I think you will have great results from them. I know this doesn't fully answer the things you listed....I would probably need to do an hour long video to explain everything. Regarding your issue with Tamiya gloss taking forever to cure. If you change to thinning Tamiya paint with lacquer thinner (just the normal stuff from the hardware store) or even just Mr. Hobby Leveling Thinner, the paint dries and is ready to go in about 30 mins.

@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 thanks for your response. As regards trying Mr Hobby Levelling Thinner with Tamiya acrylic gloss, I have tried that and it made no difference at all to being able to handle the model within a day or so. I have yet to try Tamiya lacquer thinner with the acrylic gloss. I am not the only one to express this difficulty and frustration. The paint remains soft for a long time and cannot be handled in the meantime.

@@thebobloblawshow8832 thank you! And glad you liked the video.

@@PastulioModio glad the video is useful to you!

@@arewethereyetmodeling2196 what do you know it actually works 😯

@@PastulioModiowoohoo! Awesome.

Yes, it looks pretty good once it’s built up. But honestly there better 72nd sabres out there. The Fujimi kit is so much better in every aspect and came out in the 80s

Totally agree and glad you liked the video.

@@marcgrad6338 thank you, glad you liked the video.