Bored of lame tool reviews? Meet Makita's new Hypoid Saw.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ม.ค. 2015
- Bored to tears with "This is the greatest new tool, watch me cut things" bobble-head reviews? This is not that.
We teardown a brand new Makita hypoid saw for woodworking. I review the construction of this saw from the inside out, complete with electrical testing and explanation of the difference between a Skilsaw Worm Gear and the Makita Hypoid. I use a microscope to show the surface and wear-in of the gears.
We also test the melting point of Makita's plastic tool housing.
This isn't a sales review, this is part reverse-engineering and part hacking.
What are worm and hypoid gears? skip to 8:25
Take away from gear explanation skip to 10:15
Running the saw on DC battery power skip to 28:00
How much torque does this saw produce? skip to 22:00
What oil does Makita Hypoid use? skip to skip to 17:00
What is that plastic thing on the tool power cord? skip to 2:45
What temperature does plastic housing melt? skip to 18:30
Use of microscope to inspect surface of gears skip to 12:00
Errata: OLD cars use spiral bevels they mostly changed to hypoid in the 40s. Ooops.
"It really was the point of the hypoid gear in automobiles because it allowed for lower floors and tunnels in cars." -anonymic79 - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I'm an aircraft mechanic. I piss off gravity for a living, and that makes me smile. But, you sir. You, are GOD among Men. This channel is absolutely incredible. I just learned more about tools in 30 minutes than I've ever known prior. Keep the video's coming. And thank god I guessed right about Makita lol.
Don't worry, we rotor-craft mechs practice the dark art of ".... waiiiiiiiiiiiiit. aww F*ck... dude, look... " to which the brotherhood will reply "let me call the wife, it's gonna be a long one". - We do a good job =)
+William Gray I was trying to figure out how you piss on gravity, then I re-read
he's perty darn skookum, that's for sure!
People who piss on the gravity stay on the ground. This is where you are. Can you get up or are you a chicken? There are no friends at 38,000 feet and .7Mah
738polarbear.
Another aircraft engineer here!
We generally don't use electric hand tools on aircraft...some desk jockeys theory that commutator sparks may ignite fuel fumes.
I don't own many makita tools, just this set of 50 cutters - fucking legend
If you were teaching shop class, we'd never have a shortage of skilled labor.
G5 you mean skookum labour
If only shop class still existed as an elective.
Fingerless society
@@nandayane it does in the good places
Fortunately, my school is doubling its shop offerings.
Being a Carpenter I cringed when you stick your finger on the blade as she was turning . I'm glad your Sixth Sense kicked in and you said that's probably not a good idea . You can't regrow fingers . great video
I think this was the best product review I've ever had the privilege of viewing, sir.
Actually, most all rear drive vehicles are of a hypoid style gear arrangement just like that saw. The pinion drive gear doesn't pass through the centerline. I have *_never_* seen anything but the hypoid gear arrangement in rear drive vehicles. In fail wheel drive vehicles, the diff is internal to the transmission in most cases and are normally a chain drive or direct spur gear. The exceptions to the hypoid rule I would say are some of the really old, early automobiles like a Model T perhaps.
Ford 9", Ford 8.8, Dana's, AAR's, GM's, Mercedes, BMW, etc, etc, all hypoid. Even some of the EP rear end lubes say hypoid on the bottle.
Yeah, agree. Notable exceptions are profoundly weird cars in other ways. SAAB 900 cars from '79-'93 and SAAB 99 from '68-'84 had spiral bevel gears, as did many Citroëns (2cv, Traction Avant, DS, SM). This layout was shared (albeit transposed to the back of the car) with many VW-derived vehicles: Bug, Van, and a whole series of front-engine (transaxle at rear) and rear-engine Porsches. Perhaps not coincidentally, lots of these cars have pinion or pinion bearing failure when souped up beyond design spec. Something about not handling torque...
Subaru uses a similar setup to the Citroën/VW/Porsche style, but they've gone with hypoid gears at least in some of their units. They are possibly more robust. Some VW people even swap them in.
I am so glad I read this comment because I was starting to question everything I thought I knew when he said they were spiral gears
All done for more ground clearance...
Nadine Seelmeyer nope done so the drive shaft don’t hit the underside of your vehicle. The haploid gear meshes with the lower side of the diff ring gear. Not the upper side.
Land Rover differentials have no hypoid offset.
I've binge-watched most of your uploads, and they're all awesome. Thank you for doing what you do!
That's what I call a tool review, awesome man how you can explain every details and give examples of your own experience ;)
Dude I randomly came across this but you're an absolute beaut. Thanks for the absurdly in depth look at the saw, I'm just a contractor and understood about a third of what you were talking about, but was thoroughly entertained the whole time. Good job
One of your best. I liked your criticism of the package labeling lies. I often wonder how they can lie like that. Of course ALL advertising is a lie.
I don't think they lie for the sake of lying, but only because everyone else uses the same lies because the average consumer is ignorant of the basics of such things. They like big numbers, so the manufacturers publish the biggest ones they can. If Makita used RMS figures, their saws would look candy-ass compared with the rest and people wouldn't buy them. This is the sad reality of a planet infested with ignorant, lazy people.
You must be american.. Some advertising is actually factual, I know, crazy world..
The overstating of power seems to be a recurring problem for 120 V tools. Here in Europe we have 13 amps at 220V in ordinary household outlets which can easily give 3 or more horsepower and in my (admitedly limited) experience the good brand tools here do actually have the stated power. I have some power tools from Bosch, Makita and some Eastern Europe and Chinesium brands ranging from 1.5 to 2.5 KW. They do actually consume more electrical power than stated when under heavy load. I have seen the exact same model Bosch drill as I have advertised in the US with exactly the same power rating, which would be impossible at 120V and 15 A. I'm guessing that the motor really is the exact same one as I have just wound with thicker gauge and fewer turns and that it would probably provide the same power if your socket outlet could supply it (and the cord didn't melt). Which means the label may be technically correct inasmuch as what the tool is rated but dishonest and misleading inasmuch as what the tool can actually do for you.
Its not a lie! Its just just an alternate truth you are not privy to.... they be smarter than us.
It's been going on for long before power tool spec's were routinely provided... before that it was stereo equipment with chooched spec's. Watts aren't watts aren't watts. RMS, peak, continuous... etc, etc. They skin the cat the way it makes them look good and them's the numbers they give.
Great video as always. There is nobody doing tool reviews and tear downs like this. Keep up the good work Ave
You make me laugh, love your no BS reviews! I find my self replaying them back to hear your sayings 'McGyver yourself out'. Classic. Keep them coming.
18:27 "I don't know what sort of thermosetplastic this is, but..."
19:25 starts to drum on the *>PC-GF15
Well that was surprisingly in depth. Great vid.
I've only just discovered this channel and I love it. Learning soooo much about power tools, thanks
Great review Ave and keep them coming along with your angelic way of communicating with us!
I feel like a nerd for catching Dave's quote from EEVblog, Loving your vids, informative and damn entertaining
Ruben Briones *thick aussie accent* Don't turn it on, take it apahttttt
Wow this is very interesting... I work in a testing department for a competitive company...
You got a pretty comprehensive setup there man! SUBBED
My wife got me one of these for my birthday this year, built half a dozen decks with it already. It is light, and strong, and cuts straight. And now I know there is a scientific explanation for all it's goodness:) Thank you for the review!
I HAVE this saw and I love it. Thank you for this in depth video. It is just what it feels like in your hands!
Watched a few of your videos over the past few days, these tool reviews are exactly what I had been looking for, although I haven't had the need to buy any tools in a couple of years, I still enjoyed. Subbed
Have you got nothing better to do other than watch this.
+Samuel Clark douche.
anyone could ask the same of why you're even here. add something productive or say nothing at all.
You insane wizzard.
If/when I get a new tool, I treat it like royalty. You just stripping them down boggles my tiny hippy noodle.
One of my favorite reviews of all time.. Great explanation, review and analysis.. Thank you !
I'm kinda surprised at how in depth and serious this review is. You are really giving the word "review" a whole new meaning. Thanks for freezing your butt off so we can have good audio on your videos too. Subscribed, and thumbs up
"He's a good man, and thorough." -Maude Lebowski
To get UL listing for the tool, any component that connects directly to the mains must carry its own listing - for this saw that means the mains cable and the switch.
That was a dam fine review segment. Wow... Greetings and thanks from Nashville,Tn.
Enjoyed the way you reviewed this product. Will definitely look for your reviews when I'm looking for new tools
Having used the magnesium or aluminum bodied worm drive skil and milwaukee saws in residential home building in the lovely but severely wet Washington State USA for several years, I can tell you that the plastic bodies do not shock the bejezus out of you when you are standing in mud, cutting wet wood. Those old skil saws would tingle in the handle even when you were bone dry, and downright juice you when damp. Also, we abused those saws fiercely. Power pole was usually 50 to 100 feet away, and a couple of costco extension cords run up to the house... pull the trigger on the saw and get about 200 rpm out of it with the extension cords smoking hot. We'd saw through truss nail plates that way, cut 4x6 headers, bird mouths on rafter tails, drag them through the mud and up the side of the house by the power cord... they just never seemed to mind, other than bleeding electricity through the body. When one of the saws died, likely due to the gearbox being dry, but no post-mortem was performed, we bought a newfangled at the time, Makita hypoid saw. It performed flawlessly. The carrying handle would break on those, usually when you threw it in the back of the pickup truck. But they were several pounds lighter, and had as much grunt as the skil's had. We bent more of the bottom plates on the makita's though, and the makita would weep more oil out of the gear box, so much so that we had a bottle of oil in the truck and would top off the case about once a week ( which we NEVER did on the skil saws ) As I recall, a new skil 77 was about $200 and the makita was about $180. Skil eventually made the pistol grip on the 77 out of plastic, but it was replaceable which was nice. When I got out of that racket, and bought a house, I tried a circular saw and I simply couldn't use it. The torque and offset of the blade seemed like it was designed to cross up the blade in the wood. I bought a Skil 77 and now I'm a legend in my neighborhood.
Jeff Stewart ty
House framer here too.........some 21 years ending about 15 years ago. But yeah, couldn't kill a SKIL!! We would pull them up into the joist buy the chord attached to an extension chord. I LOVED the big 60 degree for doing serious cut up roofs here in south Louisiana.
don say the dreaded racket word... polish plain your diplomatic skills and replace with bubble or derivatives, you'll sound like james bond at the next rummage block party
@@gentbar7296 what does it mean if i'm catching on to the ketchup? I never claim to know anything to a certainty, but a certain entity seems to have pit itsself against thee. I understand too much to look away. I feel as though I'm constantly playing catch-up. The guide I seek never cummms!
Great review, much more in- depth than I expected. As a builder who buys a lot of tools,it's a huge help to know which tools are actually worth buying and which ones to rent and buy the damage insurance...Thanks!
Thank you! That's a review I watched every second of and loved it! XD I sometimes repair old power tools, so seeing the guts, machining and "magic goo" in this machine was very interesting and informative! Thumbs up!!!
Great review. Can't believe i watched the whole thing but it opened my DiY eyes to how tools like these are made. Excellent job.
That plastic slidey useless choocher thing typically has the rfid anti theft strip in it and nothing else in my experience.
Got one of these years back. First cut was a green 3" pine branch. Jammed the blade, blew the gears out and broke the casting. Makita's sales rep saw my post and sent me a new one. I've been using it for all my circular saw cutting now for maybe 15 years. Good things to say for Makita!!
As always, a great video. You are among my favorite channels. I just had to point out one thing. An old Eskimo once told me that if you blow a breaker, you've got some serious problems. Breakers trip, fuses blow. He never let me forget that.
Man, that was the best tool review I've EVER watched!! Thank you, brother!!
I have repaired tools for Makita for seven years and I can guarantee you that plastic piece on the cord is not a ferrite toroid. It does not have a Makita part number and you can't get a new one from Makita. The only thing that plastic piece does is container the little security strip that will set off the alarms at the door of the Home Depot.
Quite right!
I was also going to point this out. You are absolutely right. When I buy tools with that plastic thing on them, the first thing I do is smash it off.
I was so confused, doesn't a ferrite torroid need to be connected?
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrite_bead
Cracked one open couple years back and that’s exactly what it is
Don't turn it on, take it apart! EVE Blog for the win, make me smile hearing you say that @AvE
Love the review, just picked one up that was barely used for $10.00 at a thrift store. Very pleased with it!!
Impressive mechanical tear down. Love all the nerdy mechanical discussion. I learn something every time. Thanks.
Good lord, I wish I had found your reviews so long ago. Thanks for all the extra bits and pieces knowledge/info on random parts, oil, names of keys and all the little engineering radness that pertains to the things you are ripping apart!!! Like that slidy plastic thing on some cords.. Thanks! Will be watching 'em all.
+AvE
It is?! I thought it was some sort of electrical surge protector or something like that...
I have cut several hundred rafters, sheet material and studs with this tool. I use it almost everyday at work, and I love watching it auger through 12 inch x 1 3/4 engineered glue lamb. This thing never skips a beat! Thanks for the tear down and informative vid!
This is like listening to my tafe teacher when I a was a apprentice but you just have a way of describing things that I understand easily it’s great
Can't believe I watched a saw review and learned a lot and really enjoyed it! Can't get me the sit through a movie but this had me spellbound.
"...finishing schools these days, ain't what they used to be." ... nearly fell off the couch.
Awesome, eh?
Loved the intermission music, AvE :)
I saw one of your reviews on reddit last week and I've been watching them ever since. Love them, keep em up!
By far the best tool review I have ever watched (and I've watched a lot). So much so, that I feel compelled to let you know.
I enjoy your videos! Just one comment for your viewers. thermo set plastics unlike thermo plastics won't melt, they burn. General characteristics for thermo set plastic is: good dimensional stability, high strength, resistant to heat, high dielectric strength, low creep etc. Manufacturing downsides, expensive material cost, slower molding cycle times, scrap can't be recycled etc. Keep your stick on the ice! lol. Mike
Another tidbit for you. Thermosets are essentially pre-mixed EPOXY based plastic meaning they are curing from the moment they're manufactured (mixed). They're pelletized and shipped frozen and include a thaw-alarm/detector so that when received it can be spotted if any thawing may have occured and hence, rejected. The end-user (manufacturer) then monitors their life as they do expire even in the freezer (shelf-life product). Immediately before use they are put in a pre-heat (thaw) oven (microwave) and then transfer molded (not injection molded).
Love the eevblog reference. "don't turn it on, take it apart."
been watching so much AvE it reads "take it A-part"
One of the best reviews I have seen in a long time ...
thanks for making me feel better about my purchase!
Great vid. One minor quabble though is that automotive differentials definitely use hypoid bevel gears - though the hypoid distance is not as extreme as this saw uses. The highest hypoid gearset in common use was probably the Ford 9", which of course was phased out a long time ago (presumably for efficiency reasons.) Though regardless, most every automotive differential I've messed with has been hypoid and not straight nuts spiral bevel.
The Ford 9" rear end is still in production at least in the aftermarket in the USA. It is the most common rear end for high performance applications. All NASCAR cars use them and they are very widespread in drag racing. The last car in the USA to use a spiral bevel gear was the Ford Model A. They initially started using hypoid rear ends to lower the driveshaft to reduce the intrusion into the floor. Then they discovered the vastly improved torque capacity over spiral bevel and never went back.
"So what does that actually mean to you and me? The guys with the big arms and the little heads on the dumb end of the tape measure" "electrocity"
I`m in tears hahahahah, seriously good entertainment value and much learny things. Could fill a book with you quotes. grand stuff!
I don't know anything about tools, but I love watching these, I'm learning and laughing all at the same time, you're an awesome dude, thanks for making these!
The only channel I've found that has real technical knowledge from an actual expert. No bobble here.
Much thanks. With all your knowledge I would think you'd have made yourself a noiseless heater by now.
You know, AvsE, those jump-cuts around power tools make me itch. I keep expecting a jump-cut to a (hopefully simulated) severed finger and loud screaming. THAT would bring the show to a close right away.
Maybe you can target that saw with your IR camera, give us a temperature profile? Great teardown video, thanks!
I've finally worked out what BOLTR means. What a fucking relief.
+NoGufff Please do share.
+telefon72 Well, it's not acronymised in the title of this video.
+telefon72 "Bored Of Lame Tool Reviews"
Ron Garvin Yeah, if you would care to read the rest of the comments here, you would have known, that i figured it out...
telefon72 Well you don't have to be a dickhole about it.
Best review yet.
Truly enjoyed the knowledge and comical banter ratio. I thought that I was the last one to use the phrase "for shits and giggles".
Cheers man, keep the good info coming.
Just gorging on old AvE videos. Fascinating watch him deconstruct tools that are WAY out of my price range and still finding things that are not skookum. Also learning a lot about what goes into these things and what trade-offs manufacturers make.
So about 4 videos ago I was worried that this was becoming my new favorite channel. I'm no longer worried.
The saw is gonna last FOR...EVER! Guaranteed!... This is not a guarantee. lol.
Something you missed? Holy hell that was more complete and in depth than at a few places I can even understand. *awesome* review, no BS.
Thing you _might_ have missed: First let me preface this by saying its been two+ decades since I came out of electronics college but I do clearly remember the 20k ripums motors are series wound and yes they will run on both AC & DC and I am glad you showed that to all the newbies out there (even the 'failure' with the 9 volt batteries is valuable teaching tool because it illustrates low current scenarios which can happen in real life. Like my last house this fellow wired up the garage himself using red and black wire... not only did my circular saw trip the breaker but he had the polarities backward and the voltage was 90VAC. I traced it back to a weak connection which was right under my bedroom and a FIRE HAZARD to boot! After I used compression connectors to rewire it and put the whole mess in a proper electrical box it worked fine. I also added a GFI which saved my life when a cracked droplight cord was in a mess of water that I was standing it. Best $6 I ever spent! ) the signs of a low voltage/low current/bad connection scenario since these are one of the most common issues in electronics.
90% of shit is bad connections and knowing how the load acts helps one diagnose the issue. And you know how valuable it is to be a good/great diagnostician. It's where the real money is.
OK, as I was trying to say before I rambled myself out the door and atop the barn:
Series wound motors, IIRC, are basically meant to self-destruct with no load on them. Meaning running it without the blade is obviously not good. Testing it in this manner really doesn't tell us much and risks burning the coating off the motor winding wire. Of course this is not how us woodworkers use the tool so either way it is a moot point. After your excellent breakdown I will buy a Makita hypoid saw or angle grinder should I ever need one! (its like a reverse psychology sell!)
8 amps times 120 gives us about 960 watts and at 746 watts per hp that means this is about a 1 1/3 hp @20k ripums noload ...
I find that is the only TRUEer # to use when buying tools and even then there is power loss in the gears and bearings but it looks like that Makita would keep it to a minimum. I knew about differentials but not about hypoid gears and *I really appreciate that breakdown & illustration*. Glad you insist on plug in tools since the cordless junk is just all that -- JUNK. Trendy DIY stuff... the only thing I really like/need is my cordless light for occasions under the car, lockwork or in closets/etc.
Keep 'em coming!
Nice to watch a guy that knows what he's doing and we can learn from 👍
18:27 The case is made of polycarbonate, as written on the case itself at 19:21
That >PC-GF15< stamped on the plastic means polycarbonate reinforced with 15% of glass fibers.
nice catch! and a bad ass material, almost like bullet proof glass
It is the material used in bullet proof glass.
@@8bits59 Not quite. PC has superior optical properties. It's indeed clear as glass. And other than glas it's very tought and doesn't break on impact.
@@horste9237 that makes sense, thanks for the info! I knew it was something special about PC, they didn't just pick any ol plastique.
Hey AvE
I went out and bought this saw based on your review, It is a succumb saw as you would say, I love it. I was wondering if you could compare it to the Skil SPT77W-01 15 Amp 7 1/4-in Worm Drive Corded Circular Saw. I look forward to seeing your breakdown and comparison between the worm drive and the hypoid drive. keep up the good work
P.S your reviews of tools are the best and most in-depth, and really gives tradesmen the info they need to buy to tools that are truly going to outlast us.........which is really what you want out of a tool.
Succumb... I do not think it means what you think it means.
Skookum is the word you seek.
I have no clue how I stumbled across these video's of yours. But I'm glad I did. It's about time someone did tear down reviews of tools instead of the same old "I like this tool because I use it so you should buy one too" review. Keep it up!
I love this guys disposition!!
You are incorrect on Spiral bevel gears in automobiles Ave. The have not been widely used in a very long time. The hypoid gear is the standard for Most if not all autos on the road.
@ 9:15 or so - For what it's worth, every automotive differential that isn't a novelty is Hypoid. Ford 9", 8.8" - Dana... everything. GM x-Bolt...
Not the Model-T axle though.
That, my good Sir, was bloody brilliant! As always.
Paul
Love your work and your humor. God Bless You.
You had me at "distinctive stank"
AvE ! .. you seem like a Millwright! ... I worked as a Millwright and conratior of years.
One time I worked for a couple hours at a our gun club with 3 car batteries running my old Sears saw (a worm drive Skilsaw private labeled) ... worked fine for the 1X6's we were cross cutting! ...
mine is labeled "AC / DC" I think because back in the day (before inverters) there used to be popular DC converter kits for GM alternators ... you just flipped a switch run the RPM up till the voltage was 120VDC or so .. and had power all day.
Hilarious and genius. Quite the review. Thanks for all the hard work in putting it together.
I have no idea what all the technical stuff you say means but I do enjoy watching your reviews just to see what's inside of all these tools. Good stuff!
gonna have to make sure my dad keeps the skill saw. I hear it's right skookum.
I always thought the purpose of 120v DC tools was so you could run them off of the big portable AC/DC welders that had 120v household style outlets them. We used to work a welder that would always warn us about our tools needing to be DC rated before we plugged into his welder for power.
now that's what I call a tool review keep them coming :)
Having bought the very same tool some time back I'm quite relieved and informed.
Can you put together a video covering your glossary of technical terms?
^
Pat Maloney yeah it is. It means good. Skookem as frig means it’s even better.
Nsk is a Japanese bearing
First review of yours i have watched, kick ass! didn't expect to find one that wasn't
"Have Makita, cuts wood, real good, buy now!"
greetings from florida. keep up the great work on the reviews, you are the only one that tears them down and shows the inner workings of the tong yang. would like to add one little tidbit when checking for shaft hardness one should collect the filings and put them in the hypoid reservoir this will give you many years of quiet reliable operation its like gear tumbling. dude you crack me up. thanks i needed that seeeyu
As a non-native english speaker, I had no idea what you we're talking about.
I'm sure it was pretty smart though!
Great video no shit just facts
+doubleboost 15:00?
Was gonna say..
I like the meticulous approach with tidbits of good tips
What a great video, I watched it all, great , great video... I wish reviews on tools and other things were like this... Thanks a lot!
Automotive differentials use hypoid and amboid type gear sets. The only differentials that I know of that use a spiral bevel(or spur never seen inside one) would be oils model T fords.
Bespoke breastplate for englishbob prior to vernal (venal) equinox?
Yeah, I caught that also. No idea.
Best tool review from TH-cam I have seen so far
... You are the best ... thanks for the time you shared with us
I called makita. They had a part number for the lube. Crazy expensive at $34 for an ounce. Guy was kind enough to tell me that its 90wt or VG 220. I just ordered Mobil SHC 630 to change it after my new saw breaks in. Can bear the thought of never changing it. Great video. Wish you could do a bunch more. But that would be costly.
***** Please comment on this if you can. How can I be sure this SHC 630 will not attack the seals. Ive seen some posting the said seal compatibility is pretty good but it attacked some nitrile seals. I know Makita wouldn't get down in the weeds esp because they sell the oil as a part. Anyway, just curious what you think the chances are that I'd have an issue.
When the Hypoid first came out I bought one and really liked the extra power and RPM that it put out, over the Skill, and especially the weight difference .I liked the Hypoid so much better than the Skill that I continued to replace the Hypoid about once a year , as the drive gear would burn up and wasn't replaceable , for five or six years, The Skill saw I was using is still working fine, but the energy and time I saved made it well worth the cost,
just found your site love it thanks keep the videos coming
My dad taught me the grease trick with woodruff keys back when we tore apart the transmission of his lawn tractor after I broke it. Thanks for the memory!
Curious how you would rank the major brands. Personally I've always put Makkita and Bosch in one category, Rigid, Dewalt, and Millwaukee below that, Ryobi and Kobalt, then Harbour Freight.
You're ignoring a lot of brands like Fein, Metabo, and Festool.
jrmym2
Not only that. Bosch has the blue (professional) and the green (occasional use) line (at least here in Europe), as has Metabo (green = high quality, blue = DIY level with Metabo label slapped on it)
We got several festool at the job and they take alot of abuse of oversized drills and holesaws etc none have ever broken down, but the chucks are crap imo, but they are anywhere between 4 and 10 years old.
I like hitachi cordless drills they are a bit flimsy but very nice grip and really good power, i know of some broken gearboxes though.
1. Metabo, Fein, Festool, Hilti
2. Milwaukee
3. Makita, DeWalt
4. Bosch, Rigid
5. Porter Cable, Hitachi
6. Craftsman , Skil, Ryobi
7. Black & Decker
8. Rest of em- don't bother!
Common on....what about about HILTI??? DUH? This site is full of residential contractors and the weekend warriors.
there's nothing in that slide choocher but a damn anti-theft magni-tag... geezs
I have no idea what language you are speaking
Excellent teardown video! Subscribed : )
You're very knowledgable. Thanks for sharing.