I've got this Makita and have been using the crap out of it for a year, it's fantastic. The gizmo on the cord is a ferrite core to reduce the introduction of noise to the rest of the electrical system. Ever been listening to the radio when your neighbor kicks on a saw and you hear it in the speakers? That's what it prevents.
I'm pretty sure the gizmo on the cord is an anti-theft device (at stores not at the job-site). The makita router I bought had one and I removed it and it was not a ferrite core.
I've been watching a lot of your videos not so much for "how-to-do-it" info but more for your wisdom and outlook on things. People like you demonstrate that there's honor in being a tradesman. Thank you, and I hope all is well with you and yours.
Yeah they are. Honestly Ridgid even makes a sweet 7-1/4” circ saw and you can definitely get pro results with it. I can see it being hard to deal with a super cheap saw but generally a good carpenter can do fine with most any saw given the shoe is true. I like your idea though
Yes to an extent but I have ruined some good wood with cheap tools that would not hold true no matter how much you calibrate and tune them to perfect, they just can't hold it more than a few cuts. I used to have a table saw that would slowly move out of square and I would tune it on Monday and by Friday was cursing it again. I also have a certain teal blue router that will drift the bit after a few passes, it's pretty obnoxious. When your only tool is POS, it's a lot harder to be a perfectionist.
Ten years ago, My Mag77 was stolen after being a reliable friend for at least 8 years, I then bought a New Mag77....unfortunately this one only lasted for (2) two years before the actual 'Armature' (motor) fried in it ! The choice I had was to take the chance on another Skilsaw or go to something else......I chose the Makita and she's still going strong !!👍
Dad always used to say, “Weight is what broke the wagon down.” I know that my Mikita has been pretty durable for many years. There are a few things I might change but over all I’ve been happy with it.
You're right. Can't go wrong with Makita or Skil. I'll add Milwaukee. My replacement for a well used skil saw that burned out is a now 25 yr old Makita saw. There's a 1989 Makita 14" miter saw still running great (41 yrs.). Makita 3/8 hammer drill lasted 30 yrs. 1987 makita 1/2 drill (the one everybody uses to mix with) still running good. 1987 Milwaukee drywall driver still good. I was a renovator and these tools were on the job. I really like the inexpensive little Skil jobsite table saw with the grab handle and pull-out run-off support.
The black sliding thing on the cord near the plug is a ferrite choke. They are used to suppress high frequency noise from the saw that could interfere with other electronics on the same power circuit. It would be safe to take it off as you don’t have TV’s and computers etc on the building site operating at the same time.
I have owned the Makita hypoid saw for a very long time, it was given to me before my dad passed away in 1999, it is a work horse of a saw. My dad owned it for unknown number of years before he gave it to me. the only thing I have had to do was replace the cord due to the old one damaged/cracked. I would highly recommend the Makita saw to anyone wanting a work horse.
It's always nice to hear someone state their own biases and being humble in their own humanly imperfections. It makes it more believable and trustworthy.
I'm one of those guys that, because of my early years framing, the model 77 Skilsaw is like an extension of my arm. I can consistently feel something is wrong to discover only a fraction of a degree off on the shoe. When the hypoid first came out, it felt like sports car in my hand with the torque. Besides being substantially lighter. I really wanted it to succeed but it could never hold up to production use.
I've used my dad's mag 77 since I couldn't hold it. Still using the same one today. At this point I hope it out lives me, and one of my kids will love it as much as I have.
Casey Boutillier I cant remember now, but I’m pretty sure I found AvE after watching Essential Craftsman. Both great guys and have a lot of knowledge to impart.
@@TexasElectrician77 I have been watching AVE for at least 8 years now, since his channel used to be called Arduino Versus Evil. It's a shame but he has wiped a lot of his old videos.
I know this is 3 years old, and I haven't used a corded saw in a couple year, but if you happen to see one of these, look out! Had a fairly new one of these and the little finger-hold tab on the guard got slightly bent and caught on the logo. The coasting blade after a cut caught my jeans and pulled the blade into my thigh. 13 stitches and a few years later, I'm a little more careful. Of course my 36v Makita has a blade brake, and doesn't have the wretched inertia of a corded saw, so it's much safer and much more convenient all-around. 😉
I've had this saw for 5 years, I absolutely love it. I've even used it to cut an egress window opening, with a diamond tipped blade of course, but still works as good as the day I bought it. I won't ever use anything other than a worm drive, matter of fact, my next saw will be a Skillsaw worm drive.
DB Cooper's MoneyBags: that’s relieving to hear. I’ve had concerns about the saw since Bosch sold Skillsaw to a Chinese company. The Bosch worm drive is practically a clone but with Bosch QC.
As a career carpenter / framer I can say that your sentiments and mentality are SPOT ON with the tradesmen. I dont know how well that translates to other/non tradesmen. But man do I know a framer when I see one. One of my mentors in the trade was a man MUCH like yourself who I had a lot of regard for. He was always wanting to share and teach his knowledge to pass it on to the next generation. For that I really respected him and try to keep that thought process alive, especially in a world where people hoard knowledge, maybe out of fear they're too replaceable. I came up in the Mag 77 era, even before bosch bought skilsaw (which was a good thing IMHO). Something I never thought I'd see is cordless skilsaws on a framing crew and you know what, they're taking the industry by storm. I think it might be my next saw investment. I live/work in a time now where I just cringe when I have to roll out one of my corded tools like an air compressor or grinder. I just haven't got "all" the battery operated stuff yet but damn is it good stuff. Pricey upfront, yeah, but getting rid of that cord is a real luxury.
@DB Cooper's MoneyBags the batteries are arguably the most expensive part of cordless tools. But if you stay with a brand or form factor like all makita 18v, you will accumulate plenty of spares. I've not had to buy extra batteries to replace old ones. And I've got some that are at least 10 years old that still work good. I wouldn't buy the cheapest cordless tool system if you're in it for the long haul.
I grew up on a Classic 77 then a Mag 77...I have used Porter Cables, DeWalts, and Ridges...I have owned my Makita 5377mg Hypoid for 15 years and it is the best saw I have used in terms of comfort, weight, power, rip fence attachment...love it!
I have that saw. Bought it a couple years ago. I’m on the east coast so sidewinders are the most common around here. I love it! Way better than a sidewinder! Especially for a right hander like me. The torque is awesome! The weight took a little getting used to but I have learned to let gravity help out with that and under downward toward the ground whenever possible. I’m a hypoid/worm gear convert now.
That bulge on the power cord looks like a ferrite bead but I bet if you take a close look the bead will have the word EMTAG on it. It's a security device made to protect the product from theft. They are made to blend in with the device in order to mask the anti shoplifting protection it provides. This allows retailers the freedom to place tools right out where customers can handle them. People who try to steal tools with these EMTAGS on them don't have a clue that the bead on the cord is a security device which means it's still on the tool and ready to trip the alarm should one find its way to the exit without first being deactivated at a register. Excellent video as always!
When I'm cutting plywood or other sheet goods, I prefer the saw having a bit of weight. I think it helps the saw sink into the line and hold steady as it cuts. Same for rip cuts on beams or stacks of framing wood
Having a light saw is bs, i've seen guys have the saw fly right out of their hands because the machine was too light. I actually got pissed off at one of the saws one of my guys was using so much that i gave him my old saw to use. It kept nicking edges on prefabs and various other botches. He, wasn't at fault, it was damned saw, no mass = no control. This whole "lighter saw = better work" bs was started by the wanketing departments when they realized people might not buy their saws if they figure out their firm is putting less material in their saws but still asking the same premium price. And this move was universal across the board, once one corpo did it, so did the others. Never bought into that bullshit, never will. Want a lighter saw? Get a handsaw.
Agreed, but as Ive gained experience I’ve learned to accept lighter weight due to better ability to cut straight. But I still would not get rid of a heavier saw if I had one
@@aserta I'm not sure I buy that a heavier saw wouldn't have flown out of his hands too. The amount of energy in the rotating mass that is that saw blade is incredible, and I suspect it would overcome the extra three pounds of a heavier saw with no issue. I suspect the reason it flew out of his hands is not because the saw was too light but because he wasn't using the saw properly.
Good review. I've been using the Makita for about three years now and don't have any complaints. I've used it for framing lumber, composite siding, control joints in concrete and even wet timber from an old dock I pulled out. It will put up with a lot of abuse.
I'm a young electrician and every time I pick up a fancy new tool it makes me think about how much harder work used to be... I can't imagine ever being on a job site with a hundred different cords going to every contractor before battery powered tools existed. It's a really good time right now to be in a trade just because of all the cool tools you get to play with every single day.
you got me there Cyrus! But .......t could be coal-fired or hydro as well, I do remember the days of gang boxes and trying to find a plugin for your work area and the dang things blowing breakers and stopping EVERYONE using that box .in that respect I suppose the chargers are much better as they don't draw as much juice as a worm drive saw or a roto hammer :-)
construction trades are shit, done electrical work for 3 years... hard on your body, everyone beside the foremans getting laid off during the winter. and illegals drop everyone pay down. I learned a new skill so that I dont have to deal with jerk offs stealing shit from my bags, the long drives from the jobsite to home everyday and being in buildings 20 feet up on a ladder with no AC in the middle of august with a gallon of sweat on my clothes while working on 277v lighting... sometimes I miss the work, and you dont need to have a gym membership... but I will never go back to that kind of work ever again.
If only I would have had a father like this guy, to teach me things to become a better man. Life would have been different. But instead he bailed. Now I have my own construction business and have kids of my own, and I struggle teaching them about life and how to use logic vs emotions when dealing with life changing decisions. I do truly admire this guy and I listen to every word he says. He has helped me, believe it or not, in my own business :) by just watching and learning from his videos. Thanks man!
@@budgillett9627 I have to thank the guy, even if he is too busy to read this :) A wealth of knowledge only a fool will pass on. Somethings in life can not be bought, wisdom is one of them. I was a truck driver in the U.S. for 9 years working for Schneider National. I always sat next to the old timers at the truck stops at the end of the day when I could just to listen to their stories. A lot of lies, but also lots of wise words LOL. Good times.
After 45years experience and being right handed I have always used a left mount blade saw porter cable has always been my favorite because once upon a time you could buy one with a left or right mounted blade,sadly no more I would also install a new 25’ cord any time I bought a new saw , long time fan , being a old school yankee I enjoy the way you just get down to it thanks
I think you are on point with this review, however, you need to try out the 36 V rear handle cordless Makita. It is impressive. We rarely roll any cords out any more. The batteries usually last at least half the day on a full charge. The only task I've found that wears the battery out quicker is cutting stair stringers.
I love how you build into your review you experience bias into your review it is so refreshing and gives you so much more credibility when reviewing products. We need to see a lot more of that kind of content creation on TH-cam. Keep up the Great work!
"If you're not doing good work, it's not the saw's fault." I've heard a statement with a similar sentiment elsewhere, but in a more general form. The one I repeat is "A poor craftsman blames their tools." Just about any wrench will turn a bolt or nut. The nicer ones might feel better in the hand, but they'll all get the job done when used right or they weren't tools to start with. As an example of some "tools" that it turns out weren't tools, I got some "screwdrivers" from the dollar store once (I was young and dumb), and they stripped out on the first screw I used them on. Yes, I was using the right size screwdriver for the screw. No, the metal wasn't up to the task. Screwdriver tip was cut right, but the metal was soft. On the other hand, if someone was to give me a toolbox full of tools from Harbor Freight or another low-cost tool supplier, I wouldn't turn my nose up at it. I don't "need" Snap-On or another top-end brand to do my work effectively, all the extra features the top-end brands have are only incremental improvements to the baseline tool that will get the job done. Maybe if I worked on aircraft I'd be able to justify a full set of Snap-On tools, but I'm not an A&P. I'm just an auto mechanic. Pretty much any set of tools that has the right elements will do the job, and you can get 90% of that to fit in your trunk. Which is why I think everyone should have a set of tools in their daily driver. Even just a nice long breaker bar with a socket that will fit your lug nuts (or lug bolts if you drive a Volkswagen). That's gonna be a big help if you get a flat. If your vehicle has no spare tire (compact or otherwise), you should get a tire plug kit and a 12v tire inflator. That's the bare minimum you need to get to a mechanic from the side of the road. Don't use the 12v tire inflator with the engine off, because it draws a lot of power and therefore you need the engine running to keep the battery from going dead.
I always buy the best quality that I can afford. To give myself the best edge and I have found that most of my expensive tool purchases have been worth every penny. Because of the longevity. For instance I bought a $40.00 snap on gear screwdriver back in high school 1996 .It was drove over by a coworker within a week of purchase. And 24 years later it is as good as new and is my go to driver. You can do the same job for a less expensive tool but it has lasted the test of time. And it puts a smile on my face.
I liked getting AvE's take on the manufacturing side and Scott's take on the functional and actual application side. Ultimately I think I'll side with the skil saw. Both seem well made with their own fair share of nuances. And of course, the red looks way cooler
I love that you are well aware of your biases and you are very wise man that gives good advice to young aspiring carpenters or craftsmen on a whole. Love your channel immensely.
I started as a carpenter working for a crew with a porter cable sidewinder. I had replaced the cord with a 25’ extension cord and I got some strange comments and looks. Eventually when someone had to cut rafter ends overhead they wanted my saw. It probably weighted half of a mag 77. Of course it did not last and no question it did not have the power and was not as steady cutting sheet goods. I eventually joined a crew where all 10-12 used Skill worm drives some of the older steel ones and some mag 77. We all would just pick up the saw near by so my sidewinder had to go. I got a mag 77 partially cause I took a bunch of abuse for my sidewinder. Once I got used to the weight and different way it cut I learned to love it and I did enjoy the fact that I could use anyone else’s saw on autopilot. Being a skinny guy I do sometimes miss that light saw. Sure do appreciate the thoughts, contemplative nature and delivery ability of the EC. It’s sort of surprising having done a lot of the same work but in very different areas how often it’s as if the EC is reading my mind and almost knows those inner voices I hear. Then he puts it in a video. Still a joy to watch.
They are anti theft devices. It it's made by B&G model# EM370. I've taken the apart. No ferrite. You can't just slip a ferrite bead around the cord anyways. The cord needs to be looped through it.
I saw the Ryobi and Skil 77 on sale side-by-side. I was inclined to buy the Skil but I said, "Hey why not take a chance." I bought the Ryobi... should have bought the Skil.
They phased the old one out. I just bought the new one today, took it out of the box, and found it has the worst ergonomics of any makita product I’ve ever held. I’m returning it tomorrow. Not sure where to turn now. I ordered this mag hypoid saw but prefer cordless
Impeccable truth, thank you. For me, a while back, I chose Rigid out Mikata, Skil, and Bosch because when doing small ripping cuts the other three jerked too hard. The Rigid started out the smoothest.
Actually I am getting older too but in skilsaw I actually like a bit of weight.....it stabilizes the saw and if you cut smart you can use the weight of the saw to your benefit....but sometimes its just heavy.....as you said if you haven't done it for awhile it feels like a tank....but few weeks into it feels 5 lbs lighter cuz your a bit stronger
We switched from a Skill 77 to the Makita about 5 or 6 years ago. There was a bit of an adjustment period but once I got used to it I think it's just as good as the Skill. The thing on the cord eventually got busted off in the back of the truck or something and it didn't affect the performance of the saw at all. It looked like one of those anti theft strips that go off at the door in the store. Don't know why it would be clamped to the cord like that but who knows. Regardless, it's safe to take it off
I've not tried Makitas version of the Skill saw . And we don't really get Skill here in the UK . But I do have Makitas 18v cordless rip saw , which is amongst the best tools I have ever owned . I bought one 12 years ago , and a new one mid last year . Not because the first one was broken , but because it had some upgraded features and I got a good deal on it . There is a huge thing in our trades just now , and I've seen friends fall out over it 😮 and it's that DeWalt is best , no Makita , no Milwaukee is better . Guys can't just realise , or admit that we are super lucky now , to have these great tools , that are improving constantly . Look at the oscillating multi tool , wow ! They are brilliant and I wished I'd had one years ago . So don't get hung up too much on the colour of your tools , or if you think Estwing beats Vaughan . It does not matter , as long as you can make money from them , and they keep you productive on site , and help make the job easier and more efficient . Thanks for another great video Scott , I so wish I could swing a hammer right now , but stuck in week 7 or 8 of lockdown here in Scotland . Stay safe , everyone .
I've been using the cordless 18V Makita for about 12 years also. It's really a fantastic saw. I have dropped a couple and that's on me that they're useless after that. I've used a Dewalt cordless too. It has a little more power and runs just as well.
I know it feels longer but unless you had a personal lockdown for a couple of weeks then I think it might be an overestimate as officially it was 23rd of March, so it's 5 weeks of lockdown, going in to 6th today/tomorrow depending on how you see it as it was evening of 23rd.
Haven't used this one yet, but my "old" metal saw from Makita has never failed me. I use it for wood and metal and it's a beast. Heavy sucker, but the thing cuts through anything i point it at. The moment i understood that underneath the metal saw "mode" is a regular wood saw, things were changed for me because the difference between having to carry two saws, is clear cut with the Makita, and it's in changing the blade and putting on or removing the face (the glass reinforced and metal cover that catches all the super hot bits when you're cutting metal).
You made a solid choice in buying a used worm drive Skilsaw. Make sure you change the lubricant right away just in case the previous owner was behind on maintenance.
@@1977jmad Probably the easiest is to just buy the skil brand lube. If you know which is the correct kind, you could use gear lube, but be careful. The gears in a skil saw are phosphor-bronze and some types of gear lube are not compatible with bronze gears. I don't recall which is which. The skil brand lube is the safest, and it's really not that much more expensive than gear lube.
Made the switch last year and picked up the Makita. Thrilled with the saw. Agree with EC, it's not the saw, but in my case, the new saw was a significant upgrade in quality and power as it turns out. My cuts are true and I find myself not having fix as many "mistakes". "you're too poor to buy cheap" was what I was told. Heard AvE say it a different way ... Buy quality and cry once.
I agree with what you said at the end. Bad work can almost never be blamed on the tool. Some of the best work I've ever done was with tools a more experienced carpenter would throw on the ground and spit at. It's more about materials used and even more about the skill of the worker than it ever is about the tool itself when we're talking about end results of a job. What makes tools worth more money or better than their contemporaries has far more to do with how they make the job easier, safer, or faster, and their tendency to solve problems rather than create them.
actually its something to do with frequency or more like an anti-electrical interference thingy. It's to stop the electrical frequency from interfering with other electrical things such as your phone.
@@tableshaper4076 The thing that is supposed to clean up noise in the power line is a *ferrite bead*(as the other comment mentioned), which is apparently absent. If that's true and that casement doesn't have one, then Makita has some serious re-thinking to do on their loss prevention tactics.
That's a solid point. I have the older Makita, bearings are going out, but I've used it so long I just can't part with it. Was thinking of getting the new one or possibly the cordless
The "gizmo" on the cord is an RFI suppressor. Supressors typically get added after the fact when the product is submitted to UL/FCC approval and fails due to generating too much RFI (radio frequency interference). Other countries have different testing regimes, so CE, etc. may not require the suppressor to be added.
always wondered what this was... so its got too my RF... and since my phone is on me at all hours of the day.. I'm going to say that RF on my saw doesnt hurt me.. does it hurt something else?
I switched to the conventional makita when I turned 50. My elbow and shoulder were greatly appreciative.It's good to have a couple of different type saws in the arsenal so you can use what best fits the project. If you are not production cutting lumber a 40 pound worm drive is not really needed.
cliff meade I'm a carpenter in Australia, have used the lightweight 7 1/4 " Makita conventional right blade saws for 30 years ,they only weigh about 7 pounds never needed anything else ,why wear yourself out with a 12 pound saw ?
Well that could be debated especially if it's new to a jobsite. I never have liked getting used to any new tools get so used to mine when they are worn out and need replaced I can be a bit slow about it unless it just fails. I wouldn't give up my skilsaw easily that's for sure afterall have stuck with the same brand for 40 years and have never been disappointed dropped one two stories it knocked it off a bit but got used to the bends quickly until the weekend came and I had the time to straighten it back up some.
the thing on the cord is a ferrite bead, ferrite core, or, more generally, a choke. Cables can act like unintentional antennas, broadcasting electrical interference (“noise”) or picking it up. The appointed task of a ferrite core is to prevent such interference.
Thank you for an honest and balanced review. AvE would be proud of you. The lump on the cable is a Ferrite, designed to reduce noise induced on the mains power line. Normally a capacitor is fitted inside the machine but these fail with age. Personally I'd put a new flex on (the one supplied probably isn't long enough anyway) and not worry too much about suppression, it's not as if your using the thing continuously somewhere where line bourne noise could be a problem.
I bought a makings years back because the home depot price matched and I bought it for $80 brand new back than the skill mag was way more money and couldn’t afford at that time, no regrets I owned makita for like 5 years built a room addition and converted a garage into the room still run like a champ
this is the first saw i used when i got into framing. i love it. ended up working in finish carpentry so i haven't used this saw in a few years and obviously can't find a reason to get it as i'll never use it in my field
I don't worry about the cords much because mine always get cut when someone else on site makes a quick cut and cuts my cord! I always replace it myself because once a worker did it and a few copper strands were shocking the hand with each pull on the trigger! Fun times. Regardless, I want to see you use and evaluate battery operated saws, as I get older these seem more attractive. Thumbs up!
As a finished carpenter, I find myself buying whatever tool I think that best fits my needs and work flow regardless of brand. That said, I had the epiphany the other day that I have slowly been acquiring a fair amount of corded Makita tools. While some brands have cheapened up on components, Makita still has it. I have been slowly replacing my corded tools with cordless ones with the vision of one day being truly cordless but I will continue to use the corded ones until they cant be resurrected.
The plastic thing on the power cord is called a choke. It is there to balance out any electrical current inconsistencies. This helps prolong the life of the motor, will keep the motor more consistent and even more so, if there is an on-board control board, the choke can prevent it from malfunctioning or burning out.
The thing around the cord near the plug is called a ferrite bead. It's used to reduce high frequency noise that is produced by the device. I'm not an electrical engineer so that's my understanding of it according to resources.altium.com/p/how-ferrite-beads-work-and-how-to-choose-the-right-one . Hope this helps.
Nope. They are anti theft devices. It it's made by B&G model# EM370. I've taken the apart. No ferrite. You can't just slip a ferrite bead around the cord anyways. The cord needs to be looped through it.
Motors make a lot of electrical noise, that goes into powerlines. That radiates out as EMI and also requires other devices to filter out power fluctuations, adding more wear and instability to other powered devices.
@@xenonram I like the idea of an anti-theft device, but I’m not buying this one. Just cut it off!! Put a new end on the cord and who’s gonna know? Nah, anti-theft tracker thingy is gonna have to be built in deeper into the guts. Didn’t read that link Coleton posted yet, but I’m not buying the anti-noise thing either.
@DB Cooper's MoneyBags Ok, an ‘in store’ anti theft device. Like that plastic thing they take off the shirt you buy. Completely useless to the owner of the saw once it’s purchased.
for 25 years I've always removed my guard and instantly out of the box replaced cord with 12g black from wholesale electric house I don't recommend the guard removal but you are right it's never the saws fault 👍
I bought one of the Makita hypoid gear saws a few years ago. First time out of the box I cut into a piece of green round wood and the blade grabbed half way into the cut and destroyed the gears. I put a complaint up on The Oak website and got a call from the US Service Manager within hours, and had a new saw in my hands in two days. That was outstanding service! Yes, I'm a fan of the Makita saws. Never had a lick of trouble with the new one.
@@mitri5389 I didn't tighten the blade bolt. I got out of the box new, plugged it in, and it's first and last cut was that piece of green round wood. I have about 10 years on the replacement saw without a lick of trouble. I recommend the saw.
It kills me when I find a power tool with a cheap stiff cord. I designed and made cable for 20+ years. For a ten foot cord the cost difference between a well made flexible and low cost stiff cord is a few pennies. Their financial people drove that decision. For a million saws they saved about $20k.
I've had my saw for a number of years now, bit different of a model than the one shown as mine has the stamped steel deck. Anyways I've found the cord to be decent quality, it's lengthy and flexible. It's a great saw, but yeh a bit weighty...
Ferrule, they're VERY important to have. Shoot AVE a message to explain why they matter, but in short they prevent noise and some electrical pulses from starting and stopping the motor abruptly with the trigger. "To shield parts or cables from electromagnetic pulses..." - Wikipedia
Nope. They are anti theft devices. It it's made by B&G model# EM370. I've taken the apart. No ferrite. You can't just slip a ferrite bead around the cord anyways. The cord needs to be looped through it.
The Makita hypoid was my first hypoid saw and I love it 20 years later BUT I got into the worm drive saws. Here is my opinion and in no way am I indicating I am more knowledgable than the man in this video, but the smoothest worm drive saw money can buy is an older MADE IN USA Skil 8 1/4" saw. It is heavy but often that helps save from kick backs and the larger blade enables the saw to spin the motor a little slower resulting in the much quieter saw. If you mostly rip the Skill saw can be amazing. I like the lower noise and torque of the 8 1/4 Skil. I hunted eBay and found a new old stock made in USA, have it in 7 1/4" and 8 1/4" .. I want to purchase as much made in America as possible. .The old made in IUSA saws seem to hold up about 30 years or more.
Don't overtighten the blade bolt. Just make it snug. The saw will still cut, but in a bind or pinch, the blade will lock up in the lumber but the shaft should spin .
I've had the green hypoid saw for a couple years and as far as I'm concerned it is a beast of a saw and does everything that I could possibly expect. I also like the fact that it has low wear steel gears and long life lubrication.
The device on the cord is a security device. All of my recent Makita corded tools had one. I When I get my tools home, I have removed them with a combination of carefully partially crushing it with pliers and prying it open with a stiff putty knife. You will find a security tag inside; the kind that make the alarms go off as you exit the store if it isn't deactivated.
I thought the same thing but it was only plastic and it separated into two halves with no conductors between the halves to make a coil. I don't know a lot about ferrite cores so maybe to was there but it would have had to be incredibly thin (less that 1/32" thick) and buried in the plastic. I also didn't hear or feel anything break when I twisted the plastic.
The cordless version is awesome my self, brother and many other guys in the trades have at least one. It’s strong, not super heavy and NO CHORD!! They are great for things like rafter tails and whatnot ,when you don’t want to be dragging a chord. Great content as usual!👍
The 6.5" saw is great, only weighs 6lbs +battery. I could see this being a God send when cutting sheathing between going up and down ladders and making cuts further out
6:40 it's one of those 'don't steal me' tags that alarms if you try and leave the store without buying it. Just bought a sander and couldn't stand the cord as well so it had to come off. Great videos, thank you
No, but good effort. No sane manufacturer would put the effort and money to have a case for the anti-theft tag. If you watch AvE's teardowns, you'll see the tag inside the tool, which he will remove saying it's trying to connect with the mothership LOL. What it is, is an electrical noise suppressor.
I started using a Skil 77 (non mag) back in 1982. It was a little heavy for me at age 16 but I got used to it pretty quickly. About 5 or 6 years ago, since I wasn't doing much framing anymore, I started using a Makita cordless saw (which I love). I recently had to bring out the Skil for a job that was too big for my little Makita cordless and I really felt the difference. I probably made about 300 cuts that day. The saw was just warming up but my right hand, forearm, and shoulder were beat.
So my main saw is the skil but, soon I will pick up the Milwaukee rear handle (cordless) I used it for like 2 days and now I absolutely need it. The cordless and the power and such makes up for everything else. I wish it had a better angle adjustment and make just a little lighter but I have grown so tired of cords and air hoses I'll deal with the weight.
In the Eastern US, most guys use a circular or ‘sidewinder’ type saw. The guys over in the west and most all form carpenters (E or W), like worm drives. You’ll produce the best work using the saw you were ‘raised’ on. It’s similar to running an excavator. If you learned on an ISO control pattern, you’ll probably have a little difficulty switching over to an SAE control pattern and vise versa. You could also make the surfing comparison. If you learned goofy foot, you’ll probably always prefer goofy foot. 🏄
I picked up a Mag 77 after I watched your review and I absolutely love it. Its my first worm drive saw and I really like the ergonomics and function of it over a circular saw.
I have been watching your videos for skittle over a year now and I I ever wanted a house built by anyone it would be you and vcg construction your knowledge and ability to still work is amazing man I hope I can keep up when I’m up there in my years
As an Aussie builder I can say the only slight advantage a rear handle might offer is extreme full depth rips in hardwood ,most chippies usually have the 9 1/4" Makita for these jobs and of course the big Makita works great on posts as well . I can't understand the Yanks fascination with rear handle saws ,they're heavy ,unbalanced and the left blade which is very hard to cut compound mitres with ! For 99% of work my 7 pound Makita 5806 7 1/4 " does great and I'm not buggered at the end of the day.
@@interman7715 have you actually used one for a day? They are certainly not heavy or unbalanced, and the worm hypoid drive system is smooth and powerful. They’re much better to use.
Scott the black thing near the plug I believe is a RF choke to suppress noise that would be generated by the saw from going back into the electrical system.
"If your not doing good work it's not the saws fault" WORDS TO LIVE BY! It's funny, I recently went back to Makita for my battery tools. My first cordless drill was the Makita 7.2 drill. First circular saw, Makita and palm sander Makita. Dewalt then came out with the 18v that EVERYONE had. then I went to Porter cable (after BD bought them) they were just awful. Recently. I needed to upgrade my drills, I found a deal on Ridged Nice power tool but the feel and trigger was all wrong. I then went to Milwaukee Shortly after (fuel one key) amazingly powerful. The problem with the Milwaukee was too heavy and the balance of the tool is all wrong (for me) Then I went back to Makita. For me it was something familiar. The balance, power, smoothness and ergonomics that I started on was back. This is exactly what you found with your saw, nothing wrong with the Makita, nothing wrong with the Mag 77 but, when you go to pick one up over the other, something is familiar with the Skill, an extension of what's in the mind that you wish to create. Oh that weird thing on the cord is a ferrite bead it helps keeps the "angry pixies" happier to give AVE a nod! Great review as always wonderful content as always. thank you for putting forth so much effort in production.
I just order today This kind of saw . I do agree on the weight of tool , I have a makita circular saw and is heavy , but it won’t shake or kickback easy as if you had a light weight saw .
Me: a new saw would be cool, wonder if I should get a wormdrive? Oh neat, a Makita saw review on EC! EC: If you're not doing good work with it, it's not the saw's fault! Me: eh, my old direct drive still cuts alright...
I've got this Makita and have been using the crap out of it for a year, it's fantastic. The gizmo on the cord is a ferrite core to reduce the introduction of noise to the rest of the electrical system. Ever been listening to the radio when your neighbor kicks on a saw and you hear it in the speakers? That's what it prevents.
I'm pretty sure the gizmo on the cord is an anti-theft device (at stores not at the job-site). The makita router I bought had one and I removed it and it was not a ferrite core.
@@SpringRubbercorrect.
@@SpringRubber They should offer it in hot pink. Sure, you'd get some looks on the site but nobody would steal your tools. Hehe
I've been watching a lot of your videos not so much for "how-to-do-it" info but more for your wisdom and outlook on things. People like you demonstrate that there's honor in being a tradesman. Thank you, and I hope all is well with you and yours.
"If you aren't doing good work with it, it's not the saw's fault." Words to live by.
"It's a poor workman who blames his tools!" Some wise old guy.
Yeah they are. Honestly Ridgid even makes a sweet 7-1/4” circ saw and you can definitely get pro results with it. I can see it being hard to deal with a super cheap saw but generally a good carpenter can do fine with most any saw given the shoe is true. I like your idea though
@@thomaspsimpson9995 stupid hammer 😄
It is not the arrow but it is the Indian who throws it
Yes to an extent but I have ruined some good wood with cheap tools that would not hold true no matter how much you calibrate and tune them to perfect, they just can't hold it more than a few cuts. I used to have a table saw that would slowly move out of square and I would tune it on Monday and by Friday was cursing it again. I also have a certain teal blue router that will drift the bit after a few passes, it's pretty obnoxious. When your only tool is POS, it's a lot harder to be a perfectionist.
I really like your fair tool reviews. That bit of self awareness and humility in your opinion is really rare from product reviewers.
P.s. my son 10 year old is watching your videos and I appreciate your influence. Quality.
@barefoot arizona perhaps his 16th. 10 is a bit too young for such a tool
@barefoot arizona yes cause his life will be quite short then
Ten years ago, My Mag77 was stolen after being a reliable friend for at least 8 years, I then bought a New Mag77....unfortunately this one only lasted for (2) two years before the actual 'Armature' (motor) fried in it !
The choice I had was to take the chance on another Skilsaw or go to something else......I chose the Makita and she's still going strong !!👍
Dad always used to say, “Weight is what broke the wagon down.”
I know that my Mikita has been pretty durable for many years. There are a few things I might change but over all I’ve been happy with it.
My grandfather said : "Wait broke the wagon", if something needed fix'n now is the time to do it.
You're right. Can't go wrong with Makita or Skil. I'll add Milwaukee. My replacement for a well used skil saw that burned out is a now 25 yr old Makita saw. There's a 1989 Makita 14" miter saw still running great (41 yrs.). Makita 3/8 hammer drill lasted 30 yrs. 1987 makita 1/2 drill (the one everybody uses to mix with) still running good. 1987 Milwaukee drywall driver still good. I was a renovator and these tools were on the job. I really like the inexpensive little Skil jobsite table saw with the grab handle and pull-out run-off support.
The black sliding thing on the cord near the plug is a ferrite choke. They are used to suppress high frequency noise from the saw that could interfere with other electronics on the same power circuit. It would be safe to take it off as you don’t have TV’s and computers etc on the building site operating at the same time.
Yeah. really useless for a contruction-grade tool. Nobody will care about a little bit of electro-magnetic noise on a construction site
Moritz Rank, well, maybe the guy in the trailer, using the wi-fi.
It's actually an anti theft tag disguised to look like a ferrite. You can safely cut it off.
I have owned the Makita hypoid saw for a very long time, it was given to me before my dad passed away in 1999, it is a work horse of a saw. My dad owned it for unknown number of years before he gave it to me. the only thing I have had to do was replace the cord due to the old one damaged/cracked. I would highly recommend the Makita saw to anyone wanting a work horse.
5:34 "...listed in the minus column."
*Makita engineer reaches for his pencil*
With beads of sweat forming on his temples.
It's always nice to hear someone state their own biases and being humble in their own humanly imperfections. It makes it more believable and trustworthy.
I love my skilsaw, I even use it to cut my lawn
What do you do? Lay on your side and eyeball how long it is?
It's even better for edging!
You are a Madd Ladd, LOL :)
Some barbers found a use of it too
I trim my sideburns
I'm one of those guys that, because of my early years framing, the model 77 Skilsaw is like an extension of my arm. I can consistently feel something is wrong to discover only a fraction of a degree off on the shoe. When the hypoid first came out, it felt like sports car in my hand with the torque. Besides being substantially lighter. I really wanted it to succeed but it could never hold up to production use.
I've used my dad's mag 77 since I couldn't hold it. Still using the same one today. At this point I hope it out lives me, and one of my kids will love it as much as I have.
Just change the oil occasionally and your wish should come true.
@diver dave im number 642
Difficult to understand why someone would thumbs down this video. Clearly a seasoned professional giving an unbiased review of a tool. Nicely done.
A feminist, obviously..they hate men
I love that he watches AvE! Watching AvE got me to this channel a year and a half or so ago now.
AvE referred to him as The Silver Fox lol
AvE gave him one of the copper hammers I believe and Scott sent him a forged hammer
Casey Boutillier I cant remember now, but I’m pretty sure I found AvE after watching Essential Craftsman. Both great guys and have a lot of knowledge to impart.
@@TexasElectrician77 I have been watching AVE for at least 8 years now, since his channel used to be called Arduino Versus Evil. It's a shame but he has wiped a lot of his old videos.
I know this is 3 years old, and I haven't used a corded saw in a couple year, but if you happen to see one of these, look out! Had a fairly new one of these and the little finger-hold tab on the guard got slightly bent and caught on the logo. The coasting blade after a cut caught my jeans and pulled the blade into my thigh. 13 stitches and a few years later, I'm a little more careful. Of course my 36v Makita has a blade brake, and doesn't have the wretched inertia of a corded saw, so it's much safer and much more convenient all-around. 😉
I've had this saw for 5 years, I absolutely love it. I've even used it to cut an egress window opening, with a diamond tipped blade of course, but still works as good as the day I bought it. I won't ever use anything other than a worm drive, matter of fact, my next saw will be a Skillsaw worm drive.
DB Cooper's MoneyBags: that’s relieving to hear. I’ve had concerns about the saw since Bosch sold Skillsaw to a Chinese company. The Bosch worm drive is practically a clone but with Bosch QC.
Witch one? The Makita is not a worm drive.
Get ready for disappointment, the Makita is ten times the saw than that new Skilsaw junk.
As a career carpenter / framer I can say that your sentiments and mentality are SPOT ON with the tradesmen. I dont know how well that translates to other/non tradesmen. But man do I know a framer when I see one. One of my mentors in the trade was a man MUCH like yourself who I had a lot of regard for. He was always wanting to share and teach his knowledge to pass it on to the next generation. For that I really respected him and try to keep that thought process alive, especially in a world where people hoard knowledge, maybe out of fear they're too replaceable. I came up in the Mag 77 era, even before bosch bought skilsaw (which was a good thing IMHO). Something I never thought I'd see is cordless skilsaws on a framing crew and you know what, they're taking the industry by storm. I think it might be my next saw investment. I live/work in a time now where I just cringe when I have to roll out one of my corded tools like an air compressor or grinder. I just haven't got "all" the battery operated stuff yet but damn is it good stuff. Pricey upfront, yeah, but getting rid of that cord is a real luxury.
@DB Cooper's MoneyBags the batteries are arguably the most expensive part of cordless tools. But if you stay with a brand or form factor like all makita 18v, you will accumulate plenty of spares. I've not had to buy extra batteries to replace old ones. And I've got some that are at least 10 years old that still work good. I wouldn't buy the cheapest cordless tool system if you're in it for the long haul.
I grew up on a Classic 77 then a Mag 77...I have used Porter Cables, DeWalts, and Ridges...I have owned my Makita 5377mg Hypoid for 15 years and it is the best saw I have used in terms of comfort, weight, power, rip fence attachment...love it!
I like my ridged better
I've had the same Makita reciprocating saw for 28 years. The cord has been the only problem and I've only replaced it once.
Good tool.
I have that saw. Bought it a couple years ago. I’m on the east coast so sidewinders are the most common around here. I love it! Way better than a sidewinder! Especially for a right hander like me. The torque is awesome! The weight took a little getting used to but I have learned to let gravity help out with that and under downward toward the ground whenever possible. I’m a hypoid/worm gear convert now.
Right on!
I'd never seen a worm drive before til I moved to the west coast. Eye-opener
Glad to have a west coast style convert out here. Can cut faster when you see what you are cutting 😉
That bulge on the power cord looks like a ferrite bead but I bet if you take a close look the bead will have the word EMTAG on it. It's a security device made to protect the product from theft. They are made to blend in with the device in order to mask the anti shoplifting protection it provides. This allows retailers the freedom to place tools right out where customers can handle them. People who try to steal tools with these EMTAGS on them don't have a clue that the bead on the cord is a security device which means it's still on the tool and ready to trip the alarm should one find its way to the exit without first being deactivated at a register.
Excellent video as always!
@DB Cooper's MoneyBags didnt even bother reading more than the first few words of my comment did ya?
When I'm cutting plywood or other sheet goods, I prefer the saw having a bit of weight. I think it helps the saw sink into the line and hold steady as it cuts. Same for rip cuts on beams or stacks of framing wood
There's a lot of advantages to a heavy saw. More control and less vibrations are the most important
Having a light saw is bs, i've seen guys have the saw fly right out of their hands because the machine was too light. I actually got pissed off at one of the saws one of my guys was using so much that i gave him my old saw to use. It kept nicking edges on prefabs and various other botches. He, wasn't at fault, it was damned saw, no mass = no control.
This whole "lighter saw = better work" bs was started by the wanketing departments when they realized people might not buy their saws if they figure out their firm is putting less material in their saws but still asking the same premium price. And this move was universal across the board, once one corpo did it, so did the others.
Never bought into that bullshit, never will. Want a lighter saw? Get a handsaw.
@@aserta lighter is better for shipping. That's about it
Agreed, but as Ive gained experience I’ve learned to accept lighter weight due to better ability to cut straight. But I still would not get rid of a heavier saw if I had one
@@aserta I'm not sure I buy that a heavier saw wouldn't have flown out of his hands too. The amount of energy in the rotating mass that is that saw blade is incredible, and I suspect it would overcome the extra three pounds of a heavier saw with no issue. I suspect the reason it flew out of his hands is not because the saw was too light but because he wasn't using the saw properly.
Good review. I've been using the Makita for about three years now and don't have any complaints. I've used it for framing lumber, composite siding, control joints in concrete and even wet timber from an old dock I pulled out. It will put up with a lot of abuse.
"If your not doing good work with it, it's not the saws fault." great words to live by @Essential Craftsman
The most honest tool review I have ever watched in my life!! Subscribed!
I'm a young electrician and every time I pick up a fancy new tool it makes me think about how much harder work used to be... I can't imagine ever being on a job site with a hundred different cords going to every contractor before battery powered tools existed.
It's a really good time right now to be in a trade just because of all the cool tools you get to play with every single day.
In reality, you still are plugging in its just a charger instead of a cord........
@@americanheritagebuilders1809 In reality, if your power comes from a nuclear power plant it's like your saw is splitting atoms right on site
you got me there Cyrus! But .......t could be coal-fired or hydro as well, I do remember the days of gang boxes and trying to find a plugin for your work area and the dang things blowing breakers and stopping EVERYONE using that box .in that respect I suppose the chargers are much better as they don't draw as much juice as a worm drive saw or a roto hammer :-)
construction trades are shit, done electrical work for 3 years... hard on your body, everyone beside the foremans getting laid off during the winter. and illegals drop everyone pay down. I learned a new skill so that I dont have to deal with jerk offs stealing shit from my bags, the long drives from the jobsite to home everyday and being in buildings 20 feet up on a ladder with no AC in the middle of august with a gallon of sweat on my clothes while working on 277v lighting... sometimes I miss the work, and you dont need to have a gym membership... but I will never go back to that kind of work ever again.
If only I would have had a father like this guy, to teach me things to become a better man. Life would have been different. But instead he bailed. Now I have my own construction business and have kids of my own, and I struggle teaching them about life and how to use logic vs emotions when dealing with life changing decisions. I do truly admire this guy and I listen to every word he says. He has helped me, believe it or not, in my own business :) by just watching and learning from his videos. Thanks man!
Joe Madrid what a tribute to EC!
@@budgillett9627 I have to thank the guy, even if he is too busy to read this :) A wealth of knowledge only a fool will pass on. Somethings in life can not be bought, wisdom is one of them. I was a truck driver in the U.S. for 9 years working for Schneider National. I always sat next to the old timers at the truck stops at the end of the day when I could just to listen to their stories. A lot of lies, but also lots of wise words LOL. Good times.
I think AVE called it “anti-theft blue”
Teal? Lol. I remember that episode :)
He also said he would own this saw for life.
"Built-in anti-theft device - the color" ;)
“Theft deterrent teal” Haha
Ha ! There’s a lot to that ! Spray paint in odd colors keeps your tools from walking away !
After 45years experience and being right handed I have always used a left mount blade saw porter cable has always been my favorite because once upon a time you could buy one with a left or right mounted blade,sadly no more
I would also install a new 25’ cord any time I bought a new saw , long time fan , being a old school yankee I enjoy the way you just get down to it thanks
I think you are on point with this review, however, you need to try out the 36 V rear handle cordless Makita. It is impressive. We rarely roll any cords out any more. The batteries usually last at least half the day on a full charge. The only task I've found that wears the battery out quicker is cutting stair stringers.
I love how you build into your review you experience bias into your review it is so refreshing and gives you so much more credibility when reviewing products. We need to see a lot more of that kind of content creation on TH-cam. Keep up the Great work!
"If you're not doing good work, it's not the saw's fault."
I've heard a statement with a similar sentiment elsewhere, but in a more general form.
The one I repeat is "A poor craftsman blames their tools."
Just about any wrench will turn a bolt or nut. The nicer ones might feel better in the hand, but they'll all get the job done when used right or they weren't tools to start with.
As an example of some "tools" that it turns out weren't tools, I got some "screwdrivers" from the dollar store once (I was young and dumb), and they stripped out on the first screw I used them on.
Yes, I was using the right size screwdriver for the screw. No, the metal wasn't up to the task. Screwdriver tip was cut right, but the metal was soft.
On the other hand, if someone was to give me a toolbox full of tools from Harbor Freight or another low-cost tool supplier, I wouldn't turn my nose up at it. I don't "need" Snap-On or another top-end brand to do my work effectively, all the extra features the top-end brands have are only incremental improvements to the baseline tool that will get the job done.
Maybe if I worked on aircraft I'd be able to justify a full set of Snap-On tools, but I'm not an A&P. I'm just an auto mechanic. Pretty much any set of tools that has the right elements will do the job, and you can get 90% of that to fit in your trunk. Which is why I think everyone should have a set of tools in their daily driver. Even just a nice long breaker bar with a socket that will fit your lug nuts (or lug bolts if you drive a Volkswagen). That's gonna be a big help if you get a flat. If your vehicle has no spare tire (compact or otherwise), you should get a tire plug kit and a 12v tire inflator. That's the bare minimum you need to get to a mechanic from the side of the road. Don't use the 12v tire inflator with the engine off, because it draws a lot of power and therefore you need the engine running to keep the battery from going dead.
I always buy the best quality that I can afford. To give myself the best edge and I have found that most of my expensive tool purchases have been worth every penny. Because of the longevity. For instance I bought a $40.00 snap on gear screwdriver back in high school 1996 .It was drove over by a coworker within a week of purchase. And 24 years later it is as good as new and is my go to driver. You can do the same job for a less expensive tool but it has lasted the test of time. And it puts a smile on my face.
I've got an older model Makita hypoid, no fancy bling.
I love it, had it for about 10 yrs now.
I liked getting AvE's take on the manufacturing side and Scott's take on the functional and actual application side. Ultimately I think I'll side with the skil saw. Both seem well made with their own fair share of nuances. And of course, the red looks way cooler
The makita is objectively superior
I love that you are well aware of your biases and you are very wise man that gives good advice to young aspiring carpenters or craftsmen on a whole. Love your channel immensely.
Why is it that every time we realize the saw isn’t plugged in, we bump the trigger at least three times
I do that to make sure I'm in real life.
Tom Larson that was you ?? I ended up in my neighbors garage the last time 😩
What’s that clicking noise !
It's the same reason that you clap your tongs three times before you use it to pick up food. Ya can't trust a man whom doesn't do that.
Haha so true
I started as a carpenter working for a crew with a porter cable sidewinder. I had replaced the cord with a 25’ extension cord and I got some strange comments and looks. Eventually when someone had to cut rafter ends overhead they wanted my saw. It probably weighted half of a mag 77. Of course it did not last and no question it did not have the power and was not as steady cutting sheet goods. I eventually joined a crew where all 10-12 used Skill worm drives some of the older steel ones and some mag 77. We all would just pick up the saw near by so my sidewinder had to go. I got a mag 77 partially cause I took a bunch of abuse for my sidewinder. Once I got used to the weight and different way it cut I learned to love it and I did enjoy the fact that I could use anyone else’s saw on autopilot. Being a skinny guy I do sometimes miss that light saw. Sure do appreciate the thoughts, contemplative nature and delivery ability of the EC. It’s sort of surprising having done a lot of the same work but in very different areas how often it’s as if the EC is reading my mind and almost knows those inner voices I hear. Then he puts it in a video. Still a joy to watch.
The think you do not know, is a Ferrite coil. It is used to reduce EMI.
EMI feedback back into the branch circuit.
They are anti theft devices. It it's made by B&G model# EM370. I've taken the apart. No ferrite. You can't just slip a ferrite bead around the cord anyways. The cord needs to be looped through it.
It is only anti theft. Good hit with a hammer and throw the pieces in the trash.
It is the AC anti theft strip not a EMI.
I saw the Ryobi and Skil 77 on sale side-by-side. I was inclined to buy the Skil but I said,
"Hey why not take a chance." I bought the Ryobi... should have bought the Skil.
You should try the 36 V Makita, I was slow to try them but as heavy framer and form carpenter I can tell you that they do hold up.
They phased the old one out. I just bought the new one today, took it out of the box, and found it has the worst ergonomics of any makita product I’ve ever held. I’m returning it tomorrow. Not sure where to turn now. I ordered this mag hypoid saw but prefer cordless
I use a Makita 36 V and it is awesome. I have been saw cordless for over 4 years.
@@dustdistrict9296 what saw are you talking about? The cordless makita?
@@darrenhanson7696 yes. the 36 volt 7 1/4 circ saw
Impeccable truth, thank you. For me, a while back, I chose Rigid out Mikata, Skil, and Bosch because when doing small ripping cuts the other three jerked too hard. The Rigid started out the smoothest.
Actually I am getting older too but in skilsaw I actually like a bit of weight.....it stabilizes the saw and if you cut smart you can use the weight of the saw to your benefit....but sometimes its just heavy.....as you said if you haven't done it for awhile it feels like a tank....but few weeks into it feels 5 lbs lighter cuz your a bit stronger
We switched from a Skill 77 to the Makita about 5 or 6 years ago. There was a bit of an adjustment period but once I got used to it I think it's just as good as the Skill. The thing on the cord eventually got busted off in the back of the truck or something and it didn't affect the performance of the saw at all. It looked like one of those anti theft strips that go off at the door in the store. Don't know why it would be clamped to the cord like that but who knows. Regardless, it's safe to take it off
I've not tried Makitas version of the Skill saw . And we don't really get Skill here in the UK . But I do have Makitas 18v cordless rip saw , which is amongst the best tools I have ever owned . I bought one 12 years ago , and a new one mid last year . Not because the first one was broken , but because it had some upgraded features and I got a good deal on it . There is a huge thing in our trades just now , and I've seen friends fall out over it 😮 and it's that DeWalt is best , no Makita , no Milwaukee is better . Guys can't just realise , or admit that we are super lucky now , to have these great tools , that are improving constantly . Look at the oscillating multi tool , wow ! They are brilliant and I wished I'd had one years ago . So don't get hung up too much on the colour of your tools , or if you think Estwing beats Vaughan . It does not matter , as long as you can make money from them , and they keep you productive on site , and help make the job easier and more efficient . Thanks for another great video Scott , I so wish I could swing a hammer right now , but stuck in week 7 or 8 of lockdown here in Scotland . Stay safe , everyone .
I've been using the cordless 18V Makita for about 12 years also. It's really a fantastic saw. I have dropped a couple and that's on me that they're useless after that. I've used a Dewalt cordless too. It has a little more power and runs just as well.
I know it feels longer but unless you had a personal lockdown for a couple of weeks then I think it might be an overestimate as officially it was 23rd of March, so it's 5 weeks of lockdown, going in to 6th today/tomorrow depending on how you see it as it was evening of 23rd.
"I do have Makitas 18v cordless rip saw" is that the DHS680?
@@cjhification I am type 1 diabetic mate . So I went into self isolation , before the lockdown , following advice .
@@LudoA I'd need to check mate . The latest one I got is the brushless model .
The Makita is the one I use. Given to me by a close friend and it has that same appeal that you talked about many videos ago Scott.
Bought me the Makita last year after seeing your original Mag 77 video. She's a haus!
Haven't used this one yet, but my "old" metal saw from Makita has never failed me. I use it for wood and metal and it's a beast. Heavy sucker, but the thing cuts through anything i point it at. The moment i understood that underneath the metal saw "mode" is a regular wood saw, things were changed for me because the difference between having to carry two saws, is clear cut with the Makita, and it's in changing the blade and putting on or removing the face (the glass reinforced and metal cover that catches all the super hot bits when you're cutting metal).
I just bought my first used mag77 then I saw this title and my heart sank a bit. Good thing I watch till the end every time. 😉👍
You made a solid choice in buying a used worm drive Skilsaw. Make sure you change the lubricant right away just in case the previous owner was behind on maintenance.
Right Lane Hog what kind/brand of oil would you recommend?
@@1977jmad Probably the easiest is to just buy the skil brand lube. If you know which is the correct kind, you could use gear lube, but be careful. The gears in a skil saw are phosphor-bronze and some types of gear lube are not compatible with bronze gears. I don't recall which is which. The skil brand lube is the safest, and it's really not that much more expensive than gear lube.
Made the switch last year and picked up the Makita. Thrilled with the saw. Agree with EC, it's not the saw, but in my case, the new saw was a significant upgrade in quality and power as it turns out. My cuts are true and I find myself not having fix as many "mistakes". "you're too poor to buy cheap" was what I was told. Heard AvE say it a different way ... Buy quality and cry once.
I agree with what you said at the end. Bad work can almost never be blamed on the tool. Some of the best work I've ever done was with tools a more experienced carpenter would throw on the ground and spit at. It's more about materials used and even more about the skill of the worker than it ever is about the tool itself when we're talking about end results of a job. What makes tools worth more money or better than their contemporaries has far more to do with how they make the job easier, safer, or faster, and their tendency to solve problems rather than create them.
That gizmo on the cord has a security tag in it. I took mine off and verified that it wasn't a ferrite bead.
actually its something to do with frequency or more like an anti-electrical interference thingy. It's to stop the electrical frequency from interfering with other electrical things such as your phone.
@@tableshaper4076 Sam just said it *wasn't* a ferrite bead/core/choke which is what you'd use to dampen interference.
Same, bust it off with a chisel. Just one of those annoying tags that scream going out the store.
@@tableshaper4076 The thing that is supposed to clean up noise in the power line is a *ferrite bead*(as the other comment mentioned), which is apparently absent. If that's true and that casement doesn't have one, then Makita has some serious re-thinking to do on their loss prevention tactics.
I think the doohickey on the cord is to mitigate the sudden spike in current when the saw is turned on and off.
I've used both those saws and they both work very well. Makita has always had more plastic on them than I like but they hold up.
I have the Makita. It's hard to beat the saw you already know, it's like shaking an old friend's hand.
That's a solid point. I have the older Makita, bearings are going out, but I've used it so long I just can't part with it. Was thinking of getting the new one or possibly the cordless
Yay! Makita fam!
The "gizmo" on the cord is an RFI suppressor. Supressors typically get added after the fact when the product is submitted to UL/FCC approval and fails due to generating too much RFI (radio frequency interference). Other countries have different testing regimes, so CE, etc. may not require the suppressor to be added.
always wondered what this was... so its got too my RF... and since my phone is on me at all hours of the day.. I'm going to say that RF on my saw doesnt hurt me.. does it hurt something else?
"If you are not doing good work with it, it's not the saw's fault" 🤣 love that quote.
I switched to the conventional makita when I turned 50. My elbow and shoulder were greatly appreciative.It's good to have a couple of different type saws in the arsenal so you can use what best fits the project. If you are not production cutting lumber a 40 pound worm drive is not really needed.
cliff meade I'm a carpenter in Australia, have used the lightweight 7 1/4 " Makita conventional right blade saws for 30 years ,they only weigh about 7 pounds never needed anything else ,why wear yourself out with a 12 pound saw ?
The most important info. It's not the saws fault. Lol
My thought exactly..
Dammit, there goes my plausible deniability! :)
Well that could be debated especially if it's new to a jobsite. I never have liked getting used to any new tools get so used to mine when they are worn out and need replaced I can be a bit slow about it unless it just fails. I wouldn't give up my skilsaw easily that's for sure afterall have stuck with the same brand for 40 years and have never been disappointed dropped one two stories it knocked it off a bit but got used to the bends quickly until the weekend came and I had the time to straighten it back up some.
It is not the arrow but it is the Indian who throws it
the thing on the cord is a ferrite bead, ferrite core, or, more generally, a choke. Cables can act like unintentional antennas, broadcasting electrical interference (“noise”) or picking it up. The appointed task of a ferrite core is to prevent such interference.
Was gonna leave comment explaining the “thing on the cord” (which see in many power cords, etc...); & ya nailed it. Good job👍🏻
@@Aepek I knew what it did but i didnt know what it was called my answer was a straight copy paste from google
@@pghgeo816 nothing wrong with that, 😁
✌🏼
Thank you for an honest and balanced review. AvE would be proud of you. The lump on the cable is a Ferrite, designed to reduce noise induced on the mains power line. Normally a capacitor is fitted inside the machine but these fail with age. Personally I'd put a new flex on (the one supplied probably isn't long enough anyway) and not worry too much about suppression, it's not as if your using the thing continuously somewhere where line bourne noise could be a problem.
I bought a makings years back because the home depot price matched and I bought it for $80 brand new back than the skill mag was way more money and couldn’t afford at that time, no regrets I owned makita for like 5 years built a room addition and converted a garage into the room still run like a champ
this is the first saw i used when i got into framing. i love it. ended up working in finish carpentry so i haven't used this saw in a few years and obviously can't find a reason to get it as i'll never use it in my field
What made you jump in finish carpentry. Is sooooo boring compared to framing.? Don't you think so?
@@izmirjera2619 get paid more to work inside. boring? depends on your preference i guess. i will say my body will thank me when i'm in my 50's
I don't worry about the cords much because mine always get cut when someone else on site makes a quick cut and cuts my cord! I always replace it myself because once a worker did it and a few copper strands were shocking the hand with each pull on the trigger! Fun times. Regardless, I want to see you use and evaluate battery operated saws, as I get older these seem more attractive. Thumbs up!
Laszlo Vass I take the blame for cutting my own cord.
I've got the dewalt worm drive, things a beast, I think you'd love it
As a finished carpenter, I find myself buying whatever tool I think that best fits my needs and work flow regardless of brand. That said, I had the epiphany the other day that I have slowly been acquiring a fair amount of corded Makita tools. While some brands have cheapened up on components, Makita still has it. I have been slowly replacing my corded tools with cordless ones with the vision of one day being truly cordless but I will continue to use the corded ones until they cant be resurrected.
Anybody that watches AvE is a well-learned TH-cam consumer.
Well , anybody who watches Essential Craftsman is a well learned -- Everything ! -- kinda depends on the topic of the day ;-)
In Bumblefuck we trust 😉
...or easily amused.
Indeed, it’s all about saving doll-hairs and avoiding pokie-bits!
So damn true.
The plastic thing on the power cord is called a choke. It is there to balance out any electrical current inconsistencies. This helps prolong the life of the motor, will keep the motor more consistent and even more so, if there is an on-board control board, the choke can prevent it from malfunctioning or burning out.
The thing around the cord near the plug is called a ferrite bead. It's used to reduce high frequency noise that is produced by the device. I'm not an electrical engineer so that's my understanding of it according to resources.altium.com/p/how-ferrite-beads-work-and-how-to-choose-the-right-one . Hope this helps.
Nope. They are anti theft devices. It it's made by B&G model# EM370. I've taken the apart. No ferrite. You can't just slip a ferrite bead around the cord anyways. The cord needs to be looped through it.
Motors make a lot of electrical noise, that goes into powerlines. That radiates out as EMI and also requires other devices to filter out power fluctuations, adding more wear and instability to other powered devices.
@@xenonram I like the idea of an anti-theft device, but I’m not buying this one. Just cut it off!! Put a new end on the cord and who’s gonna know? Nah, anti-theft tracker thingy is gonna have to be built in deeper into the guts.
Didn’t read that link Coleton posted yet, but I’m not buying the anti-noise thing either.
@DB Cooper's MoneyBags Ok, an ‘in store’ anti theft device. Like that plastic thing they take off the shirt you buy. Completely useless to the owner of the saw once it’s purchased.
Real world review by a mentally and physically fit pro . Zero trash talk.. refreshing video
Any chance you’d take a look at the cordless version of either of those saw. I think you’ll be surprised 👍
Yeah I work on a framing crew and we don’t have a corded tool on site. It also gets cold where I work and battery tools still get it done
Yes
for 25 years I've always removed my guard and instantly out of the box replaced cord with 12g black from wholesale electric house I don't recommend the guard removal but you are right it's never the saws fault 👍
An honest review. Nice.
Cheers from Tokyo!
@Cornelio Soria Thank you very much!
I bought one of the Makita hypoid gear saws a few years ago. First time out of the box I cut into a piece of green round wood and the blade grabbed half way into the cut and destroyed the gears. I put a complaint up on The Oak website and got a call from the US Service Manager within hours, and had a new saw in my hands in two days. That was outstanding service! Yes, I'm a fan of the Makita saws. Never had a lick of trouble with the new one.
how did you break the saw? you tighten the bolt 1/4 after being tight, not by using a wrench until you cant turn it.
@@mitri5389 I didn't tighten the blade bolt. I got out of the box new, plugged it in, and it's first and last cut was that piece of green round wood. I have about 10 years on the replacement saw without a lick of trouble. I recommend the saw.
It kills me when I find a power tool with a cheap stiff cord. I designed and made cable for 20+ years. For a ten foot cord the cost difference between a well made flexible and low cost stiff cord is a few pennies. Their financial people drove that decision. For a million saws they saved about $20k.
Right into the CEO's pocket.
Corded tools are almost obsolete now anyway
@@googleisevil1041 Far from it. Still need that cord.
@@cbalan777 That's… not how public companies work…
I've had my saw for a number of years now, bit different of a model than the one shown as mine has the stamped steel deck. Anyways I've found the cord to be decent quality, it's lengthy and flexible. It's a great saw, but yeh a bit weighty...
I would love to work for him and what an education. We need more men like this teaching the building trade .
@6:42 That "oddball thing" that gotta go is likely a electrical filter with the purpose of shielding electrical noise.
Ferrule, they're VERY important to have. Shoot AVE a message to explain why they matter, but in short they prevent noise and some electrical pulses from starting and stopping the motor abruptly with the trigger. "To shield parts or cables from electromagnetic pulses..." - Wikipedia
Yep, it's called a ferrite core.
Common misconception it is the the store theft security device.
@@potatotr33 Do welders also have them?
Nope. They are anti theft devices. It it's made by B&G model# EM370. I've taken the apart. No ferrite. You can't just slip a ferrite bead around the cord anyways. The cord needs to be looped through it.
The Makita hypoid was my first hypoid saw and I love it 20 years later BUT I got into the worm drive saws. Here is my opinion and in no way am I indicating I am more knowledgable than the man in this video, but the smoothest worm drive saw money can buy is an older MADE IN USA Skil 8 1/4" saw. It is heavy but often that helps save from kick backs and the larger blade enables the saw to spin the motor a little slower resulting in the much quieter saw. If you mostly rip the Skill saw can be amazing. I like the lower noise and torque of the 8 1/4 Skil. I hunted eBay and found a new old stock made in USA, have it in 7 1/4" and 8 1/4" .. I want to purchase as much made in America as possible. .The old made in IUSA saws seem to hold up about 30 years or more.
1:40 Sudden kickback can happen to even the mightiest. Keep tight hold!
@diver dave Can't believe it😯
Yeah, that was an angle I would not be comfortable with.
Don't overtighten the blade bolt. Just make it snug. The saw will still cut, but in a bind or pinch, the blade will lock up in the lumber but the shaft should spin .
I've had the green hypoid saw for a couple years and as far as I'm concerned it is a beast of a saw and does everything that I could possibly expect. I also like the fact that it has low wear steel gears and long life lubrication.
Makita has similar cordless with 2 batteries. Good if need to make some cuts without cords
The device on the cord is a security device. All of my recent Makita corded tools had one. I
When I get my tools home, I have removed them with a combination of carefully partially crushing it with pliers and prying it open with a stiff putty knife. You will find a security tag inside; the kind that make the alarms go off as you exit the store if it isn't deactivated.
It may very well have a security tag in it but it's also a ferrite core to reduce electrical noise.
I thought the same thing but it was only plastic and it separated into two halves with no conductors between the halves to make a coil. I don't know a lot about ferrite cores so maybe to was there but it would have had to be incredibly thin (less that 1/32" thick) and buried in the plastic. I also didn't hear or feel anything break when I twisted the plastic.
The cordless version is awesome my self, brother and many other guys in the trades have at least one. It’s strong, not super heavy and NO CHORD!! They are great for things like rafter tails and whatnot ,when you don’t want to be dragging a chord. Great content as usual!👍
The 6.5" saw is great, only weighs 6lbs +battery. I could see this being a God send when cutting sheathing between going up and down ladders and making cuts further out
Exactly, unless you’re broke then there’s NO reason you should be using chorded saws, an experienced carpenter like this guy should know better...
Amen to that, I love my makita rear handle. Can’t remember the last time I used a corded saw.
I have a small cordless saw and I find myself using that more & more.
I have the 18volt Xs2 Makita saw too. Love it!!! I can't remember the last time I used a saw with a tail on it.
6:40 it's one of those 'don't steal me' tags that alarms if you try and leave the store without buying it. Just bought a sander and couldn't stand the cord as well so it had to come off. Great videos, thank you
No, but good effort. No sane manufacturer would put the effort and money to have a case for the anti-theft tag. If you watch AvE's teardowns, you'll see the tag inside the tool, which he will remove saying it's trying to connect with the mothership LOL.
What it is, is an electrical noise suppressor.
I have the 36V cordless version of this saw and love it! I'd be interested in hearing your thoughts on it.
Yes, great to have some power away from the grid. And no cord is often well worth the extra weight.
I started using a Skil 77 (non mag) back in 1982. It was a little heavy for me at age 16 but I got used to it pretty quickly. About 5 or 6 years ago, since I wasn't doing much framing anymore, I started using a Makita cordless saw (which I love). I recently had to bring out the Skil for a job that was too big for my little Makita cordless and I really felt the difference. I probably made about 300 cuts that day. The saw was just warming up but my right hand, forearm, and shoulder were beat.
"It's not the saw's fault", perfectly stated.
It is not the arrow but it is the Indian who throws it
So my main saw is the skil but, soon I will pick up the Milwaukee rear handle (cordless) I used it for like 2 days and now I absolutely need it. The cordless and the power and such makes up for everything else. I wish it had a better angle adjustment and make just a little lighter but I have grown so tired of cords and air hoses I'll deal with the weight.
In the Eastern US, most guys use a circular or ‘sidewinder’ type saw. The guys over in the west and most all form carpenters (E or W), like worm drives. You’ll produce the best work using the saw you were ‘raised’ on.
It’s similar to running an excavator. If you learned on an ISO control pattern, you’ll probably have a little difficulty switching over to an SAE control pattern and vise versa.
You could also make the surfing comparison. If you learned goofy foot, you’ll probably always prefer goofy foot. 🏄
The sidewinder is a good sheet goods saw, but it doesn’t track as well as a worm drive on heavier stock. I have both.
I picked up a Mag 77 after I watched your review and I absolutely love it. Its my first worm drive saw and I really like the ergonomics and function of it over a circular saw.
I can't complain. I am just happy the blade is on the left where it belongs
I'm with ya on that! I'm anti right
Left blade is some weird West coast thing ,the rest of the world prefers blade right.
Unless the rest of the world is left handed, they are wrong to have the blade on the right
@@interman7715 why wouldn’t you want the blade in your line of sight?
@@soulfuzz368 probably to keep the blade away from your body?
I have been watching your videos for skittle over a year now and I I ever wanted a house built by anyone it would be you and vcg construction your knowledge and ability to still work is amazing man I hope I can keep up when I’m up there in my years
What’s that long black cord attached to the saw for?
maybe an antenna for wireless connection i assume
One other plus, Per Makita, is that since it doesn't use a worm drive, the drive oil will never need to changed.
I wish we could buy these weapons in Australia, they just never took off, not sure why because they are great to use.
riverbuilder I’ve wondered the same thing. I’d love to give one a try.
As an Aussie builder I can say the only slight advantage a rear handle might offer is extreme full depth rips in hardwood ,most chippies usually have the 9 1/4" Makita for these jobs and of course the big Makita works great on posts as well . I can't understand the Yanks fascination with rear handle saws ,they're heavy ,unbalanced and the left blade which is very hard to cut compound mitres with ! For 99% of work my 7 pound Makita 5806 7 1/4 " does great and I'm not buggered at the end of the day.
@@interman7715 have you actually used one for a day? They are certainly not heavy or unbalanced, and the worm hypoid drive system is smooth and powerful. They’re much better to use.
You can get the cordless rear handle Makita though, right?
@@kaiserbailey yes, but it’s not a true hypoid drive saw. Still a good saw though.
Scott the black thing near the plug I believe is a RF choke to suppress noise that would be generated by the saw from going back into the electrical system.
"If your not doing good work it's not the saws fault" WORDS TO LIVE BY! It's funny, I recently went back to Makita for my battery tools. My first cordless drill was the Makita 7.2 drill. First circular saw, Makita and palm sander Makita. Dewalt then came out with the 18v that EVERYONE had. then I went to Porter cable (after BD bought them) they were just awful. Recently. I needed to upgrade my drills, I found a deal on Ridged Nice power tool but the feel and trigger was all wrong. I then went to Milwaukee Shortly after (fuel one key) amazingly powerful. The problem with the Milwaukee was too heavy and the balance of the tool is all wrong (for me) Then I went back to Makita. For me it was something familiar. The balance, power, smoothness and ergonomics that I started on was back. This is exactly what you found with your saw, nothing wrong with the Makita, nothing wrong with the Mag 77 but, when you go to pick one up over the other, something is familiar with the Skill, an extension of what's in the mind that you wish to create. Oh that weird thing on the cord is a ferrite bead it helps keeps the "angry pixies" happier to give AVE a nod! Great review as always wonderful content as always. thank you for putting forth so much effort in production.
We should start a boycott porter cable, I hate their stuff...
I just order today This kind of saw . I do agree on the weight of tool , I have a makita circular saw and is heavy , but it won’t shake or kickback easy as if you had a light weight saw .
Me: a new saw would be cool, wonder if I should get a wormdrive? Oh neat, a Makita saw review on EC!
EC: If you're not doing good work with it, it's not the saw's fault!
Me: eh, my old direct drive still cuts alright...
Blades on the wrong side, unless you're a lefty.