Great info thank you! People like me need this advice. I lost my dad a year ago he was my best friend and a great mechanic. I never worried about any car I ever had. Now without dad it is so difficult. It isn't easy to find a humble mechanic. I have been taken advantage of a couple of times since dad has been gone. Thank you for helping us.
You always get so much information from The Humble Mechanic. Each and every question is covered in depth, with every conceivable probability covered. All presented with style, charisma and a bad-ass beard - unbeatable!
Wow, this is an incredibly helpful answer to her question. The comprehensive technical detail and explanation of business practice are spot on. Keep up the great work!
as a tech I feel it a part of my job to inform the customer exactly what is wrong and walk them thru how I came to that diagnosis. after all it is their money.
Samuel Harper I love to walk the customer through what the problem is and answer questions, especially I because I try to prove in various ways how I got to my diagnosis. It's just those customers that harass and go on about what they should do or repeat the same questions over & over that erk me. Or those customers that like to waste a person's time, grrr.... all depends on the location sometimes.
Samuel Harper what kills me is when my fellow technicians just say "part is inop, replace failed part". I had a Camry with bad abs module that felt it needed to be chatty on the can bus causing the body control module and the cluster to decide not to work. So in the story I explained what can bus is in simple terms, why the issue was happening, and how I came to it and customers LOVE IT and have left surveys saying they feel educated when I work on their car
@@HumbleMechanic wish you many customers and hi to USA. I live in Turkey as a mechanic shop owner. I should ask your opinion. I have fuel cut problem with my M52b28 car I will send via email or Facebook
See this is the type of expertise that makes Charles so worthwhile. He always remains professional in his opinions and isnt shy about telling you what you do when talking to a service writer or tech. Since he has been on both sides he can give you not only the best advice by also the path to follow to get the results you deserve to get as a paying customer. I feel this persons pain because more and more dealerships are not providing a detail explaination of what diagnostics they performed on your car. They just tell you what is broke but dont want to tell you how they came up with that results. All they want to be are parts changers. That is the primary reason I started seeking out information and Technicians like Charles on TH-cam. Im soooo tired of having my car replaced with expensive parts to later find out that said replaced part was not REALLY the problem but this other part is. Good video
Thanks Charles! I think you just assured me that going back and demanding more info is the right thing to do! I paid $135, I deserve a little more than what I got.
Lizbell Guerrero : Yeah stick up them Liz, and don't backdown. As sexiest as this may sound, being a female in this instance is probably not helping your cause because, they'll assume you know nothing about cars, hit them between the eyes and rattle them by what you do know. Hope it goes well for you, regards from Australia.
@@whitt87 It was the fuel pump. I was able to convince the tech to give me more information and I had low fuel pressure. Since the new fuel pump was $300 + and I was still a little skeptical on the info the dealer gave me I bought a used one from a local dismantler for $65. It worked! Had the car until last year with no more issues.
I've had the check engine light come on and when I read the code at the auto parts place they said it was the fuel cap. I replaced it with several ones from the scrap yard and that didn't work, I bought a $40 fuel cap from the dealer and that didn't work. Turns out it was the fuel pump cover at the fuel tank. The big black threaded ring that locks the lid over the fuel pump 😁 I have a 00 Passat.
mr humble my fuel gauge on the panel goes full and then dropes to half a tank does that mean i need a fuel pump and i keep putting gas left and right so i dont run out help me if you can thanks
I bought a 2005 VW Touareg (4.2, V8), 7:01 I took it in for a smog check, (the check engine light went on while I was on my way to the smog shop) the tech at the smog shop told me his diagnostic scanner told him that all four catalytic converters, & all four oxygen sensors were bad. I took the car home, went online paid for the ALLDATA manual. I tested the oxygen sensors with a volt meter… I found a crack on a plastic vacuum line. The line was not available from the dealer. I cut the vacuum line, spiced the line (I think it was an exterior diameter of 13mm) purchased a 4” length or vacuum hose from NAPA Auto Parts). All codes were off, & it passed smog.
Lean conditions are, too much unaccounted air that the engine cannot account for since it is going passed the mass airflow sensor. a stuck injector, a faulty pressure regulator valve, a weak or clogged fuel pump, or fuel filter. Well, how does the engine know it is running lean to throw these codes you may ask? Primary and secondary 02 sensors. Primary 02 sensors are the control freaks behind the mass airflow sensors that say "Woah, too much gas, let's tame that." or "Hey bub, you have literally no gas coming out of you what's the deal?" Also, a computer may think that a misfire is cause of a lean or rich condition, and that code may be set also. For instance, I had plug #1 on my mk3 aba undone while the wife cranked, I didn't realize that the starter blew off a piece of it's housing, but when I did correct that, the engine started without cylinder 1, as I hurriedly placed the boot on the plug and it began to run fine, a simple boot unplug can set a misfire/lean condition code. As a good rule of thumb, I look at codes and look at the problem, then think around the problem too.
Hi I have 2006 230 sport and it has been very reliable car. I have all of its scheduled maintenance. Recently it started giving p2187 and p2189 codes. No other code and rough idling . On increased speeds it runs normal.
The Title for this Platform is def a Misnomer, Charles YOU'RE the Best, we get the gist of your 'character display' to be non egotistic, or overly self aggrandizing, but hey C'mon Man, give yourself a small Pat on the Back, at least for the integrity of the best knowledge that can be put out for the ignorant/ clueless Masses , Be Blessed Man, Well done, and why is there only 204 comments, and only 145K views ? should have had 4 Billion, by Now!! 🙂😇😎👍
I have a 2006 pontiac vibe 1zzfe that the tach bounces between 600-900 constantly when at a stop. And occasionally even when driving it will feel like it's going to stall out and I get a o171 code. I did intake gasket and a new maf sensor. Cleaned the throttle body and out a new gasket in that. I'm wondering now if it might be a fuel pump. Cars only got 40 like thousand miles on it. Oh it also shakes quite it bit when it idles. Maybe that's motor mounts?
hey Charles, Paul Danner did that on Lincoln Navigator on yt. he did bunch of testing, a few lean codes etc. he did test the electrical surge and amount of power going. it turned out the pump was failing. As it was putting out 6,000 rpm 6.2 amps. new pump put in, 8400 rpm and pressure was up and stayed there. so in Liz's case. check the electrical and amount of power by using Pico. so you can know for sure?
+Josh Benney I heart Paul Danner. Lol. There are several ways to do a thorough job on diag. The amp draw test is one that's great. I usually had luck with output tests and pressures on these. But for some reason the Beetle is squirrelly. Imagine that. Lol
Is it normal that fuel pump doesnt prime? But car runs. Fuel gauge on the dash acts weird just went to gas station before gas lights up instead it adds up fuel my gas light pops up. My fuel pressure reg is new. How can i rule out if fuel pump or fuel sender (passenger side) is the problem? Both parts are pricey so i need to know which part is the prob. I dont know if my fuel pump is prob cause car runs means fuel pump is pumping but doesnt prime. Correct me if im wrong if i use fuel pressure test its only the fuel pressure regulator il be testing not the fuel pump or the sender.thank you.
had a 3.8 v6 powered 1997 Buick le saber have a bad fuel pump you would fire it up, stick it in gear..... and it would "chug"......like you tried to start out in 3rd gear on a standard trans the pump had enough pressure to run great once it got past the first 30 seconds of chug chug chug.....
Hello Charles great video on this fuel pump, good point if people pay a big diagnostic fee they're entitled to know what was done and what wasn't. My question is I believe my fuel pump has been going for a while it takes sometimes 5 or 6 cranks to start and other times once it does start it wants to die unless I keep pressing on the gas pedal and I have to keep my foot on the gas pedal at 2000 RPMs for 2 minutes when I first start it and then gradually ease my foot off the gas pedal and then it levels out, if I don't it will die! Do you think that could be the fuel pump?
Oh yeah and I did do a fuel pump pressure test a couple months ago during the summer this is on my Corrado SLC VR6 12 valve and I got about 42 LB of pressure they say between 40 and 45 is normal does that sound about right for what I got?
@@HumbleMechanic good point I'm glad you brought that up about the PSI reading I did do a fuel pressure test and I got 45 PSI at the fuel rail. My only other guess is do you think somehow or another antifreeze could be getting mixed in with the oil causing an uneven air fuel ratio mixture?
I have an o4 Passat, after I bought it had to have the head done. Tested block, which dealership told me was cracked. Replacing hoses, clamps ,water pump impeller, ect for a total of 1950.00. I asked about the headlights being low, he said the adjuster was broken. He said it would be 200 each for lights?? I bought a new set for $125, took him back to install, was $180.00 Labor. It started running ruff , He said he replaced 2 connectors, and 2 coils.Rewrapped the wiring harness to the coils. And replaced the air aspirator.Which I can't find on any parts list. That was $645.00. Within a couple of weeks the car was running worse than before. I replaced all 4 coils, I couldn't tell which ones he had changed. Ran perfect after that. I went to the shop, windows were white washed, and business gone. It started not starting on the first try. Some times I will turn key completely off, then it would start. I changed the in-line fuel filter. Some what better, but at times it still takes 4 key on, off, and on before it will start.Once it is running it sounds fine. I checked all the fuses, they tore it down to the block and put it back together, I shouldn't be having all theses problems. Starting is still taking as least 2 on and off. Now I am doing the brakes. Break Fault light came on. I now have close to 7,000.00 in a car I bought a year ago. Any idea what the starting problem might be? I am going to change the fuel pump. Car fax said it has been replaced once before. And I put nothing but premium gas in it..I was referred to the mechanic because he only did foreign cars. I had taken it to the guy that referred me, to have 2 keys programmed . Got it back, was told it had a coolant leak in the 3rd cylinder, and his Bill for two keys and a report was $225.00
I have a lean code..it only pops up when the temp outside is around 58 to 61 degrees when the weather is warm the code goes away....could it honestly be the fuel pump? also i have a small evap leak. as well. thanks.
Related question but not about a car, I'm having issues with a motorcycle and a constant flow of fuel from the fuel pump. So my question is... when there is no power to fuel pump is fuel still meant to flow through (but not at the same volume as when power is on)?
Hello, and thanks for the video. I wonder if I can get some advice here? I have a 2002 F150 with the 5.4 engine. I have been chasing an intermittent P0171 for some time. I've smoke tested the truck and ensured all vacuum leaks fixed, replaced the DPFE sensor, cleaned the MAF. Drivability of the truck is amazing, however I have noticed the following: At idle, fuel trims go sky high. Combined approach over 29 at times at idle (while driving down the road, the fuel trims drop significantly to about 16 combined). Truck cold starts without a hitch every time, but hot starts take a few turns of the key. Running real time diagnostics, I see the timing pull way back on hills to around 10 degrees advance (maybe detecting knock? flat road timing is 35+), and finally, KOEO fuel pressure at 32psi, and engine running 25 (@ idle). Oh, and the O2s are cycling as they should. What am I missing?!
HumbleMechanic very good video. My sniper efi fuel pump went from a normal buzzing sound to a squeaking sound does this indicate a possible failure. Car will not idle and also dies with foot on gas pedal
BAC I found the power wire a oil loose on the pump. I snugged up the connector and now all is good. Have not changed the pump or had any more strange noises hope this helps
I can’t get anyone to answer this question so I figured I test my luck here, I’m having shaky engine in a 2013 sierra 2500HD with the 6.0 vortec… bought it from auction and it’s a flat bed that was used for hauling cattle…all that being said I did a basic tune up and a whole bunch of tests… new plugs, compression test, noid test (all injector plugs) , spark test (all 8 cylinders) fuel pressure test that registers a little shaky between 40-60psi but then stays at 60 psi even at wide open throttle, changed transmission fluid and filter, oil & filter, air filter, cleaned MAF, and tested to see if cats were clogged by removing top upstream 02 sensors but still ran like shit maybe a bit worse, and replaced one 02 sensor that probably didn’t need replaced….I noticed it hesitates the worst between 500-1000 rpm when I barely tap the accelerator it seems to want to bog out and almost sounds like it’s going to backfire in the exhaust and in the intake, when I give it gas in park the throttle is a bit delayed and when I hold rpm’s at a certain level and hold the gas pedal steadily the rpm’s will slowly start to fall even though I haven’t moved my foot at all…I also cleaned throttle body carbon buildup but with no results… I do here an slight rattle in the exhaust downstream after the cat. I’m not getting no white/ blue/ black smoke from exhaust and no bubbles in coolant and no milky buildup or sludge under oil fill cap or dipstick… my gut feeling from the day I brought it home was fuel pump or clogged exhaust however after doing the fuel pressure test I’m not confident about spending $500 on a new pump quite yet… I scanned it a few times and deleted old codes and the ones that keep coming back are the P300 and the 02 related codes only! Bank 1 and bank 2 sensor one and 2 so I’m thinking it’s most likely not the sensors but something causing the sensors to notify the ECM. All that being said I put my ear next to the fuel pump after taking off the cap and I can hear a mechanical ticking noise that speeds up as I accelerate and after i accelerate past a certain rpm it stops making the noise… I know certain components can fail under a load however if the gauge is reading 60 psi even under load does that mean it’s not the fuel pump? Any advice is appreciated and thank you for takthe time to read all this.
I have an 2001 chevy monte carlo ss im not sure if I have a fuel pump problem but my car studder or stalls when turning my gas hand is 3/4 full any ideas 💡
I have a 2002 bmw 325i with 212k miles!!! No check engine by the way previously had all 2 banks running very lean very low power codes were p1071 p1074 and fuel cut off I change the fuel pump and ignition coil runs like new
I have a 07 mazda 3 2.0 liter. replaced may parts including the fuel pump. I found out he pump is rated at 29 GPH but didnt think anything of it. Ever since I replaced it , at WOT the car revs and hardly accelerates. Auto trans. However I can "roll into the gas slowly" but you still notice a lack of power/acceleration. no CEL however it did show a system lean for a few days. Can this be caused by low fuel pressure? Pumps on other sites and O reillys have pumps for 46GPH at least for my car. I have nofuel filter, its in the tank. Thank you for any info..
Could some sort of failure of the fuel pump cause it to not prime when opening the door or turning the ignition, yet still run fine? I've ruled out fuses and driver door electronics as the cause.
@HumbleMechanic I have a 08 passat wagon and the car loses power for a millisecond at abt 5500rpm. No check engine light. I read somewhere the the problem is the fuel filter and pump, is that really it?
Hello Charles. You videos are always great. Keep up the great work. What causes over fueling? My car is injecting too much petroleum resulting in petrol mixing with oil. Getting oil pressure and check engine. Kindly talk about over fueling in Twin charged VW Engine
QUESTION; does a fuel-pump need to emerged in the fuel completely to get cooled or just the to make sure it sucks up gas 100% FUEL from the end of fuel-pump pipe.
I get the P0171 on my Audi A4 2.0T. Have changed everything they have told me and nothing. Besides the fuel pump, could it be as simple as an old or dirty fuel filter? Someone told me what you said at the beginning. "A system lean can also be low fuel flow"
for the intake leak a basic scan tool showing rpm and a tin of brake clean may be your friend . dont know who much money brake clean has saved me in the past
My brother crank no start on honda civic 2001 timing belt was on time. my question is. Are you supposed to hear the fuel pump working before you start the car ? Bc if thats the case i dont. Lol any recommendations
My 2010 370z . I have the mechanic guy change a new fuel pump. But the issue is every time I fuel got to haft tank. I only can drive 50 mile it won't go any faster unless I have to fill up the full tank
Have a really weird drivability problem; 2013 Rio; start the car and it misses and has low power and no rpms; shut it off; re start; problem gone; runs fine; and this is literally every 2nd-3rd time you re start; corrects itself; has GDI so 2 fuel pumps here; what gives ???
as a tech I also hate talking to customers. I'm here to work on cars not to talk to customers that's why there's a service advisor. you have 2 different customers and they both waste too much of your time. the first is the one that has no idea what you're talking about and you have to spend 2 hours breaking it down or you have the other one that read every form on reddit and will spend 2 hours talking your ears off.
Hey brother in have a 2012 cc 2.0 turbo gas I have a p2293 code with no start. Gonna replace low pressure fuel pump and control module. But I see alot of aftermarket pump without canister. Do you know if I need it or can I just drop pump in and do a inline fuel filter?
Hello bro. I have an mk7r stage 3, built engine, new stage 3 turbo. The dyno showing i am running lean. AFR is 14 on boost while it should be 12. I cannot figure out where is the problem? Can you advice me? No air leak after many inspections. New low pressure fuel pump and nee high pressure fuel pump. What could be the problem?
Sir I have 2007 Hyundai accent crdi creating problems like stall in running,some time it's crank but won't start. Diagnosis and code come up is p340 so what to do next.please give some guidelines.
Hey Charles I have a mk4 1.8t loss throttle response rpm dropped as if I was engine braking didn’t stall or loose and electrical down shifted and blipped the gas pedal a few times and regained throttle control no cel or codes present can this be a fueling issue? TPS?
Need help. My fuel pump seized, banged on it, it started, p0300 popped up, live data shows 19.0 STFT/ 0.0 LTFT. But Fuel pressure shows 154 no bleed down. This pressure reading is really making me doubt that it's anything fuel related. But the 19.0 lean and the fact I throw a p0300 right after the pump seized is pointing me directly to the pump. I don't have a vacuum leak. Need help.
Love your videos and they have helped me out so much but my car has me stupped....... I have a 1998 bmw 318i and I recently got 3 codes MAF performance code, IAC performance code and Sm Evap leak. The MAF is good and the IAC is new when I clear the codes it will be good for a couple days then they come back. I pulled the plugs and they were white same with the o2 also I already checked for vacuum leaks none found my readings on my scanner says my short term fuel at idle is -2 and long tetm is at 0......1/2 throttle short term is 10.5 long term is at 0 etc.....no matter what my short term never getts above 13.2 and long term does nothing......Completely stumped and help would be awsome.
evap small leak along with lean condition.......my 99 buick century had that (it has no IAC) turned out to be that the hose for the "evap purge soliniod...... the vavle on the engine that allows the EVAP gas into the intake.....fell off put the hose back on...... and then the valve sat their and clicked.... sounded like a bad valve stuck on a new purge soliniod..... same issue.....click click click drove around like that for 3 months....and then it started to run REALLY bad popped the hood........heard "WOOOOOOOOSSSHHHH" ok, ive got a vacume leak somewhere turned out, that replacement valve hammered it self apart (bosch brand)...... and about a 3/8s sized hole just open to the atmosphere.... stuck the original GM valve back on......hasnt ever clicked again.... i dont get it.....
Help! I keep getting a P1135 heater circuit code. I put a new Toyota A/F sensor, new Denso oxygen sensor, new Walker cat, precat is stock, no exhaust leaks. While vehicle is moving, no codes. When sitting in traffic at a stoplight, P1135 appears. I clear it on the spot, and continue driving, the code comes back again when I stop moving. 2001 4runner, 200K. Any input appreciated!
i have an 04 infiniti g35 have a running lean code on bank 1 p0171 car shut off with power still on idle fluctuates checked air leak & maf could it be fuel pump never changed has 155k miles please help thanks in advance 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
I have a 2004 Toyota Camry with 175,000 mi when I try to start it in the morning it's very hesitant and when I'm driving the car with air condition on there's little power is that the fuel pump ⛽
Im having an awful fuel trim issue which is running slightly lean on idle and very rich on partial. Would it be a boost leak? As i have stalling issue when starting a warm engine.
I had 3 codes on my Audi A4 Sedan B8 1.8TSI p2293 and p0243 I did change the high pressure feul pump and turbo Solenoid all codes gone but now having new code P0171 any advice the car drive but not 100% full power any advice please
hello! whats the best way to reach you? i have a question for my vr6 turbo my walbro 255 fuel pump primes on and off and it whines and when it stops it the car wont start and when i drive it it will shut off at random i dont know if the fuel pump is shot or im getting a shortage
I have an 06 beetle with a 2.5l. having problems with car. Came up with p0171 system lean. Took it to a VW dealer and they told me that it could be the fuel pump relay. Can this cause the car to stall and run rough? Car does start fine.
@@HumbleMechanic thank you. Do you know where the relay is located in the 06 beetle? I was going to have it done at a VW dealership but they wanted almost $300 to work on it. I will appreciate your help. Thank you
I can confirm first hand that this is defenitly a possibility. I had a Lean condition on my Touareg T1. First did a smoke test for intake leak. Nothing, then tested the fuel pumps one by one. Touareg has 2. If the secondary pump was also running no Lean condition. But When only the Main pump was running Lean condition fuel trim values were 25+ on Both banks. First changed fuel filter. Didn't help then changed the Main pump and this solved my Lean condition.
@mmlinx I have a T1 Touareg and it starts fine and revs up no problem idling. When accelerating, it looses power, almost like I'm not pressing the gas pedal. I have lean codes p0171 and p0174. Do you think it's my pumps? Thank you!
Hi I Have a Toyota highlander 2.7 engine, the recent problem that have with it, when I drive specially on the higher places it not claiming right and it's not speeding the speed is going lo Lower from 75 to 40 I change all the spark plugs but still have the same issue, and when I accelerate I hear king of clicking sound on the front passenger side, please let me know if I have a bad fuel pump or a bad transmission?
Hi Charles, many thanks for all the help. I've been getting this error code (P0171) very often recently. This usually occurs after the engine fails to idle but goes off except I throttle it a little. Whenever i brake, the engine goes off as I can't brake and throttle at the same time. The car stalled last night on my way home after a hard day's work and whenever I tried to start, it will fire up, idle poorly (@ about 200-300 RPM) and goes off the moment my leg touches the throttle. I had to tow it home. I suspect the fuel pump after watching this video. What do you think? Thanks in anticipation of your response.
its absolutely normal. Because the pump is new you can now actually hear the pump working, when you idle. Over time when its getting older its getting less noisy.
Hello Mr Charles My name is Mark, thank you for your youtube channel, i have a v6 Cayenne 2004 with a vw vr6 engine, i have a code that keeps coming up, which is p2177 and p2179. I have changed both fuel pumps Maf has been cleaned What else do you think it might be sir?
I have a 2001 Audi A4 quattro 1.8T. I have an intermittent P0171 lean code for about two years. Driving small distances doesn't usually trigger a P0171 code but when I drive on the freeway (in Hungary) at 120 km/h (at gear five) (and maybe uphill) I not just get a P0171 lean code but the check engine light comes on! When this happens I stop at the next gas station and delete the error code. Most of the time the check engine light does not come back (on the freeway) but the P0171 lean code does come back! I have replaced the fuel filter, cleaned the fuel injectors and the MAF sensor. The odometer shows about 76000 miles. To my best knowledge the odometer was not tempered! The oil is leaking somewhere , I am about to replace the valve cover gasket, half-moon gasket, etc. I was surprised to hear that the valve cover gasket leak can cause lean condition!
Why replace if you can measure? Check the pressure under load and the flow... If the pressure is bad it should hesitate under full accelartion (= full fuel use) Most pumps deliver 10 times more fuel than the engione uses, so the fuel pump is rarely the cullprit if it works. If it is loud, replace the filter first...
@@MrRfaass Mine was a bad relay the relay actually wasn’t giving the right amount of current to the pump causing it too run weak so it was still running but not at its full power so it wasn’t building enough pressure
but most of newer car they have filter on the fuel.pump.asssembly, and the mechanic is not going to get a headache trying to disassemble fuel pump assembly to just change fuel filter, a lot of work, and if the.pump is the problem, the mechanic has to change the pump again by removing the whole assembly, more work. if the filter is.outside, that easy to change and see if the problem solved,
Need at least to know when is the vehicle lean, at idle or under load , or possibly even both. Impossible to determine anything without that ultimately important piece of information . Spend a few bucks and get an autel al319 , gives live data. When you have data, then you have a direction. It costs less than 50 bucks to get yourself pointed in the right direction
+New Level Auto good insight and I agree. So many techs don't use stored parameters. It's insane. On the Autel, that is a good suggestion. I don't think it's for everyone. You still need to use the info to diag the issue. For some that's above their head. I don't mean that in a negative way at all.
HumbleMechanic I was just thinking that it makes it easier for us to help them when they ask these questions . And it's Keith, Charles , no need for formalities here 😁
I have a p0171 code and changed every sensor associated with it(some twice), ive checked for vac leaks and still have the code. Im fixing to change fuel pump, done spent several hundred and still cant pass emissions. But to pull out my hair!
I just bought a 2017 volvo xc90 (50k miles). I have p0171 with 0% stft and idle but at speed it jumps to over 50%. The fuel Guage looks like it's going down faster than normal too. Anyone?
I have a 02 Passat (B5.5) with the 1.8T it has some troubles starting every once and a while. Could that be the fuel pump? P.S Love the videos, cant wait for more white wookie
The only fault that i know i have is the secondary air pump. The electrical connector broke off it. Although, I just have a cheapo OBDii reader. Thanks for the input! I'll be excited for more Passat videos! Not enough good quality ones out there.
You always get so much information from The Humble Mechanic. Each and every question is covered in depth, with every conceivable probability covered. All presented with style, charisma and a bad-ass beard - unbeatable!
Hi I love your videos I was wondering if the King of golf could help me I have a golf velocity 2.0 I advance the timing the car jerks when I retard the timing the car has no low in power I have a brand new fuel pump and when I unplug the map sensor the jerking stops I don't wanna spend any unnecessary money the engine is a Ady I'm not sure what is the specifications on spark plugs could it be the spark plugs causing the jerking and also I am not sure where the vacuum line should connect for my fuel regulator it's connected to the hose coming from the inside of a car but that hose is not making any suction or pressure please please please please help me . Thank you love your videos keep up the good work
Great info thank you! People like me need this advice. I lost my dad a year ago he was my best friend and a great mechanic. I never worried about any car I ever had. Now without dad it is so difficult. It isn't easy to find a humble mechanic. I have been taken advantage of a couple of times since dad has been gone. Thank you for helping us.
Sorry for your sad loss, hope you're coping, take care, and be Blessed 😇
You always get so much information from The Humble Mechanic. Each and every question is covered in depth, with every conceivable probability covered. All presented with style, charisma and a bad-ass beard - unbeatable!
Wow, this is an incredibly helpful answer to her question. The comprehensive technical detail and explanation of business practice are spot on. Keep up the great work!
as a tech I feel it a part of my job to inform the customer exactly what is wrong and walk them thru how I came to that diagnosis. after all it is their money.
+Samuel Harper BOOM!!!
Samuel Harper I love to walk the customer through what the problem is and answer questions, especially I because I try to prove in various ways how I got to my diagnosis. It's just those customers that harass and go on about what they should do or repeat the same questions over & over that erk me. Or those customers that like to waste a person's time, grrr.... all depends on the location sometimes.
Samuel Harper what kills me is when my fellow technicians just say "part is inop, replace failed part". I had a Camry with bad abs module that felt it needed to be chatty on the can bus causing the body control module and the cluster to decide not to work. So in the story I explained what can bus is in simple terms, why the issue was happening, and how I came to it and customers LOVE IT and have left surveys saying they feel educated when I work on their car
SaturnSam I find it exciting to show what the problem is, at least when I'm 100% sure. Sometimes they look at me like, OKAY.......
@@HumbleMechanic wish you many customers and hi to USA. I live in Turkey as a mechanic shop owner. I should ask your opinion. I have fuel cut problem with my M52b28 car I will send via email or Facebook
See this is the type of expertise that makes Charles so worthwhile. He always remains professional in his opinions and isnt shy about telling you what you do when talking to a service writer or tech. Since he has been on both sides he can give you not only the best advice by also the path to follow to get the results you deserve to get as a paying customer. I feel this persons pain because more and more dealerships are not providing a detail explaination of what diagnostics they performed on your car. They just tell you what is broke but dont want to tell you how they came up with that results. All they want to be are parts changers. That is the primary reason I started seeking out information and Technicians like Charles on TH-cam. Im soooo tired of having my car replaced with expensive parts to later find out that said replaced part was not REALLY the problem but this other part is. Good video
Thanks Charles! I think you just assured me that going back and demanding more info is the right thing to do! I paid $135, I deserve a little more than what I got.
+Lizbell Guerrero you're very welcome Liz! Let me know how it goes.
Lizbell Guerrero : Yeah stick up them Liz, and don't backdown. As sexiest as this may sound, being a female in this instance is probably not helping your cause because, they'll assume you know nothing about cars, hit them between the eyes and rattle them by what you do know. Hope it goes well for you, regards from Australia.
Lizbell what was the outcome and fix?
@@whitt87 It was the fuel pump. I was able to convince the tech to give me more information and I had low fuel pressure. Since the new fuel pump was $300 + and I was still a little skeptical on the info the dealer gave me I bought a used one from a local dismantler for $65. It worked! Had the car until last year with no more issues.
That was some series Pizza Money doled out, to the 'Jokers' hope you did get some recompense ? take care 🙂
I really like your calm, measured narration style. Subbed!
+Ace Futura thanks so much!
0:55
*"Still D.R.E." starts playing*
LOL, I love that album!
LOL, serious I had to play that song after seeing your comment. HAHAH
HumbleMechanic 2 replies from Charles on one comment??! I MADE IT!!
*"Still D.R.E." plays again*
+Redhead Metalhead hahaha. I played the censored one. Not as good. Off to find Chronic 2001 disc lol
I've had the check engine light come on and when I read the code at the auto parts place they said it was the fuel cap. I replaced it with several ones from the scrap yard and that didn't work, I bought a $40 fuel cap from the dealer and that didn't work. Turns out it was the fuel pump cover at the fuel tank. The big black threaded ring that locks the lid over the fuel pump 😁 I have a 00 Passat.
I would take the advice from a "parts store" employee with a grain of salt. They wouldnt be working in parts if they really knew anything about cars,
change the fuel filter and put a strong fuel injection cleaner in the tank to clean out the entire fuel system.
clean flow 994/993. 200ml / 8oz. for deisel but works in gasers too.
no buckshot straight up good advice.good job sir.
mr humble my fuel gauge on the panel goes full and then dropes to half a tank does that mean i need a fuel pump and i keep putting gas left and right so i dont run out help me if you can thanks
I bought a 2005 VW Touareg (4.2, V8), 7:01 I took it in for a smog check, (the check engine light went on while I was on my way to the smog shop) the tech at the smog shop told me his diagnostic scanner told him that all four catalytic converters, & all four oxygen sensors were bad. I took the car home, went online paid for the ALLDATA manual. I tested the oxygen sensors with a volt meter… I found a crack on a plastic vacuum line. The line was not available from the dealer. I cut the vacuum line, spiced the line (I think it was an exterior diameter of 13mm) purchased a 4” length or vacuum hose from NAPA Auto Parts). All codes were off, & it passed smog.
Lean conditions are, too much unaccounted air that the engine cannot account for since it is going passed the mass airflow sensor. a stuck injector, a faulty pressure regulator valve, a weak or clogged fuel pump, or fuel filter. Well, how does the engine know it is running lean to throw these codes you may ask? Primary and secondary 02 sensors. Primary 02 sensors are the control freaks behind the mass airflow sensors that say "Woah, too much gas, let's tame that." or "Hey bub, you have literally no gas coming out of you what's the deal?" Also, a computer may think that a misfire is cause of a lean or rich condition, and that code may be set also. For instance, I had plug #1 on my mk3 aba undone while the wife cranked, I didn't realize that the starter blew off a piece of it's housing, but when I did correct that, the engine started without cylinder 1, as I hurriedly placed the boot on the plug and it began to run fine, a simple boot unplug can set a misfire/lean condition code. As a good rule of thumb, I look at codes and look at the problem, then think around the problem too.
Hi I have 2006 230 sport and it has been very reliable car. I have all of its scheduled maintenance. Recently it started giving p2187 and p2189 codes. No other code and rough idling . On increased speeds it runs normal.
Did you find what was wrong with it?
always look forward to you vids Charles.as always excellent content.cheers
one of the new fuel pumps in my truck is bad and it was giving me a whole mess of codes including lean and map codes
The Title for this Platform is def a Misnomer, Charles YOU'RE the Best, we get the gist of your 'character display' to be non egotistic, or overly self aggrandizing, but hey C'mon Man, give yourself a small Pat on the Back, at least for the integrity of the best knowledge that can be put out for the ignorant/ clueless Masses , Be Blessed Man, Well done, and why is there only 204 comments, and only 145K views ? should have had 4 Billion, by Now!! 🙂😇😎👍
I have a 2006 pontiac vibe 1zzfe that the tach bounces between 600-900 constantly when at a stop. And occasionally even when driving it will feel like it's going to stall out and I get a o171 code. I did intake gasket and a new maf sensor. Cleaned the throttle body and out a new gasket in that. I'm wondering now if it might be a fuel pump. Cars only got 40 like thousand miles on it. Oh it also shakes quite it bit when it idles. Maybe that's motor mounts?
Thanks Charles. Appreciate that!
hey Charles, Paul Danner did that on Lincoln Navigator on yt. he did bunch of testing, a few lean codes etc. he did test the electrical surge and amount of power going. it turned out the pump was failing. As it was putting out 6,000 rpm 6.2 amps. new pump put in, 8400 rpm and pressure was up and stayed there. so in Liz's case. check the electrical and amount of power by using Pico. so you can know for sure?
+Josh Benney I heart Paul Danner. Lol.
There are several ways to do a thorough job on diag. The amp draw test is one that's great.
I usually had luck with output tests and pressures on these. But for some reason the Beetle is squirrelly. Imagine that. Lol
Is it normal that fuel pump doesnt prime? But car runs. Fuel gauge on the dash acts weird just went to gas station before gas lights up instead it adds up fuel my gas light pops up. My fuel pressure reg is new. How can i rule out if fuel pump or fuel sender (passenger side) is the problem? Both parts are pricey so i need to know which part is the prob. I dont know if my fuel pump is prob cause car runs means fuel pump is pumping but doesnt prime. Correct me if im wrong if i use fuel pressure test its only the fuel pressure regulator il be testing not the fuel pump or the sender.thank you.
had a 3.8 v6 powered 1997 Buick le saber have a bad fuel pump
you would fire it up, stick it in gear..... and it would "chug"......like you tried to start out in 3rd gear on a standard trans
the pump had enough pressure to run great once it got past the first 30 seconds of chug chug chug.....
Hello Charles great video on this fuel pump, good point if people pay a big diagnostic fee they're entitled to know what was done and what wasn't. My question is I believe my fuel pump has been going for a while it takes sometimes 5 or 6 cranks to start and other times once it does start it wants to die unless I keep pressing on the gas pedal and I have to keep my foot on the gas pedal at 2000 RPMs for 2 minutes when I first start it and then gradually ease my foot off the gas pedal and then it levels out, if I don't it will die! Do you think that could be the fuel pump?
Oh yeah and I did do a fuel pump pressure test a couple months ago during the summer this is on my Corrado SLC VR6 12 valve and I got about 42 LB of pressure they say between 40 and 45 is normal does that sound about right for what I got?
It could. It could be other things too. Based on your reading the psi is good
@@HumbleMechanic good point I'm glad you brought that up about the PSI reading I did do a fuel pressure test and I got 45 PSI at the fuel rail. My only other guess is do you think somehow or another antifreeze could be getting mixed in with the oil causing an uneven air fuel ratio mixture?
I have an o4 Passat, after I bought it had to have the head done. Tested block, which dealership told me was cracked. Replacing hoses, clamps ,water pump impeller, ect for a total of 1950.00. I asked about the headlights being low, he said the adjuster was broken. He said it would be 200 each for lights?? I bought a new set for $125, took him back to install, was $180.00 Labor. It started running ruff , He said he replaced 2 connectors, and 2 coils.Rewrapped the wiring harness to the coils. And replaced the air aspirator.Which I can't find on any parts list. That was $645.00. Within a couple of weeks the car was running worse than before. I replaced all 4 coils, I couldn't tell which ones he had changed. Ran perfect after that. I went to the shop, windows were white washed, and business gone. It started not starting on the first try. Some times I will turn key completely off, then it would start. I changed the in-line fuel filter. Some what better, but at times it still takes 4 key on, off, and on before it will start.Once it is running it sounds fine. I checked all the fuses, they tore it down to the block and put it back together, I shouldn't be having all theses problems. Starting is still taking as least 2 on and off. Now I am doing the brakes. Break Fault light came on. I now have close to 7,000.00 in a car I bought a year ago. Any idea what the starting problem might be? I am going to change the fuel pump. Car fax said it has been replaced once before. And I put nothing but premium gas in it..I was referred to the mechanic because he only did foreign cars. I had taken it to the guy that referred me, to have 2 keys programmed . Got it back, was told it had a coolant leak in the 3rd cylinder, and his Bill for two keys and a report was $225.00
I have a lean code..it only pops up when the temp outside is around 58 to 61 degrees when the weather is warm the code goes away....could it honestly be the fuel pump? also i have a small evap leak. as well. thanks.
wonderful explanation.
Related question but not about a car, I'm having issues with a motorcycle and a constant flow of fuel from the fuel pump. So my question is... when there is no power to fuel pump is fuel still meant to flow through (but not at the same volume as when power is on)?
Hello, and thanks for the video. I wonder if I can get some advice here? I have a 2002 F150 with the 5.4 engine. I have been chasing an intermittent P0171 for some time. I've smoke tested the truck and ensured all vacuum leaks fixed, replaced the DPFE sensor, cleaned the MAF. Drivability of the truck is amazing, however I have noticed the following: At idle, fuel trims go sky high. Combined approach over 29 at times at idle (while driving down the road, the fuel trims drop significantly to about 16 combined). Truck cold starts without a hitch every time, but hot starts take a few turns of the key. Running real time diagnostics, I see the timing pull way back on hills to around 10 degrees advance (maybe detecting knock? flat road timing is 35+), and finally, KOEO fuel pressure at 32psi, and engine running 25 (@ idle). Oh, and the O2s are cycling as they should. What am I missing?!
I have nothing relevant to the video to say.
Just wanted to say we love and appreciate ya. Haha
Thanks dude!!!! :)
HumbleMechanic very good video. My sniper efi fuel pump went from a normal buzzing sound to a squeaking sound does this indicate a possible failure. Car will not idle and also dies with foot on gas pedal
Same here.
BAC I found the power wire a oil loose on the pump. I snugged up the connector and now all is good. Have not changed the pump or had any more strange noises hope this helps
What should a 1.8t 20th fuel pump be reading in ohms? Mine is reading 00.8
I can’t get anyone to answer this question so I figured I test my luck here, I’m having shaky engine in a 2013 sierra 2500HD with the 6.0 vortec… bought it from auction and it’s a flat bed that was used for hauling cattle…all that being said I did a basic tune up and a whole bunch of tests… new plugs, compression test, noid test (all injector plugs) , spark test (all 8 cylinders) fuel pressure test that registers a little shaky between 40-60psi but then stays at 60 psi even at wide open throttle, changed transmission fluid and filter, oil & filter, air filter, cleaned MAF, and tested to see if cats were clogged by removing top upstream 02 sensors but still ran like shit maybe a bit worse, and replaced one 02 sensor that probably didn’t need replaced….I noticed it hesitates the worst between 500-1000 rpm when I barely tap the accelerator it seems to want to bog out and almost sounds like it’s going to backfire in the exhaust and in the intake, when I give it gas in park the throttle is a bit delayed and when I hold rpm’s at a certain level and hold the gas pedal steadily the rpm’s will slowly start to fall even though I haven’t moved my foot at all…I also cleaned throttle body carbon buildup but with no results… I do here an slight rattle in the exhaust downstream after the cat. I’m not getting no white/ blue/ black smoke from exhaust and no bubbles in coolant and no milky buildup or sludge under oil fill cap or dipstick… my gut feeling from the day I brought it home was fuel pump or clogged exhaust however after doing the fuel pressure test I’m not confident about spending $500 on a new pump quite yet… I scanned it a few times and deleted old codes and the ones that keep coming back are the P300 and the 02 related codes only! Bank 1 and bank 2 sensor one and 2 so I’m thinking it’s most likely not the sensors but something causing the sensors to notify the ECM. All that being said I put my ear next to the fuel pump after taking off the cap and I can hear a mechanical ticking noise that speeds up as I accelerate and after i accelerate past a certain rpm it stops making the noise… I know certain components can fail under a load however if the gauge is reading 60 psi even under load does that mean it’s not the fuel pump? Any advice is appreciated and thank you for takthe time to read all this.
I have an 2001 chevy monte carlo ss im not sure if I have a fuel pump problem but my car studder or stalls when turning my gas hand is 3/4 full any ideas 💡
My 02 mazda b3000 V6 is running lean. Shakes will idling. Engine light is on. But when I drive it. It starts flashing.
I have a 2002 bmw 325i with 212k miles!!! No check engine by the way previously had all 2 banks running very lean very low power codes were p1071 p1074 and fuel cut off I change the fuel pump and ignition coil runs like new
By fuel cut off you mean the car stopped running and wouldn't start?
I have a 07 mazda 3 2.0 liter. replaced may parts including the fuel pump. I found out he pump is rated at 29 GPH but didnt think anything of it. Ever since I replaced it , at WOT the car revs and hardly accelerates. Auto trans. However I can "roll into the gas slowly" but you still notice a lack of power/acceleration. no CEL however it did show a system lean for a few days. Can this be caused by low fuel pressure? Pumps on other sites and O reillys have pumps for 46GPH at least for my car. I have nofuel filter, its in the tank. Thank you for any info..
Great stuff here Charles.
Could some sort of failure of the fuel pump cause it to not prime when opening the door or turning the ignition, yet still run fine? I've ruled out fuses and driver door electronics as the cause.
@HumbleMechanic
I have a 08 passat wagon and the car loses power for a millisecond at abt 5500rpm. No check engine light.
I read somewhere the the problem is the fuel filter and pump, is that really it?
Thanks man, 👍
Hello Charles. You videos are always great. Keep up the great work. What causes over fueling? My car is injecting too much petroleum resulting in petrol mixing with oil. Getting oil pressure and check engine. Kindly talk about over fueling in Twin charged VW Engine
Please advise, I have 2014 touareg v8 fsi with 59000 km and I can't really know when I should replace my fuel filter I can't find any sure answer
QUESTION; does a fuel-pump need to emerged in the fuel completely to get cooled or just the to make sure it sucks up gas 100% FUEL from the end of fuel-pump pipe.
I get the P0171 on my Audi A4 2.0T. Have changed everything they have told me and nothing. Besides the fuel pump, could it be as simple as an old or dirty fuel filter? Someone told me what you said at the beginning. "A system lean can also be low fuel flow"
for the intake leak a basic scan tool showing rpm and a tin of brake clean may be your friend . dont know who much money brake clean has saved me in the past
My brother crank no start on honda civic 2001 timing belt was on time. my question is. Are you supposed to hear the fuel pump working before you start the car ? Bc if thats the case i dont. Lol any recommendations
My 2010 370z . I have the mechanic guy change a new fuel pump. But the issue is every time I fuel got to haft tank. I only can drive 50 mile it won't go any faster unless I have to fill up the full tank
Have a really weird drivability problem; 2013 Rio; start the car and it misses and has low power and no rpms; shut it off; re start; problem gone; runs fine; and this is literally every 2nd-3rd time you re start; corrects itself; has GDI so 2 fuel pumps here; what gives ???
I'm having a issue with p0300 and p0316 replaced coils and plugs and crank sensor it's a 2015 mustang EcoBoost
as a tech I also hate talking to customers. I'm here to work on cars not to talk to customers that's why there's a service advisor. you have 2 different customers and they both waste too much of your time. the first is the one that has no idea what you're talking about and you have to spend 2 hours breaking it down or you have the other one that read every form on reddit and will spend 2 hours talking your ears off.
Is it the same as for a 98 A4 quattro 1.8t and will this cause misfire symptoms? Thanks
Hey brother in have a 2012 cc 2.0 turbo gas I have a p2293 code with no start. Gonna replace low pressure fuel pump and control module. But I see alot of aftermarket pump without canister. Do you know if I need it or can I just drop pump in and do a inline fuel filter?
Hello bro. I have an mk7r stage 3, built engine, new stage 3 turbo. The dyno showing i am running lean. AFR is 14 on boost while it should be 12. I cannot figure out where is the problem? Can you advice me? No air leak after many inspections. New low pressure fuel pump and nee high pressure fuel pump. What could be the problem?
my vw t5 transporter 2008 starts up fine but ounces warm it will start to run rough and cut out while driving
Sir I have 2007 Hyundai accent crdi creating problems like stall in running,some time it's crank but won't start. Diagnosis and code come up is p340 so what to do next.please give some guidelines.
Hey Charles I have a mk4 1.8t loss throttle response rpm dropped as if I was engine braking didn’t stall or loose and electrical down shifted and blipped the gas pedal a few times and regained throttle control no cel or codes present can this be a fueling issue? TPS?
love the videos but how exacly does a bad valvecovergasket create a system lean? the air cant enter the engine or does it?
Need help. My fuel pump seized, banged on it, it started, p0300 popped up, live data shows 19.0 STFT/ 0.0 LTFT. But Fuel pressure shows 154 no bleed down. This pressure reading is really making me doubt that it's anything fuel related. But the 19.0 lean and the fact I throw a p0300 right after the pump seized is pointing me directly to the pump. I don't have a vacuum leak. Need help.
Love your videos and they have helped me out so much but my car has me stupped.......
I have a 1998 bmw 318i and I recently got 3 codes MAF performance code, IAC performance code and Sm Evap leak. The MAF is good and the IAC is new when I clear the codes it will be good for a couple days then they come back. I pulled the plugs and they were white same with the o2 also I already checked for vacuum leaks none found my readings on my scanner says my short term fuel at idle is -2 and long tetm is at 0......1/2 throttle short term is 10.5 long term is at 0 etc.....no matter what my short term never getts above 13.2 and long term does nothing......Completely stumped and help would be awsome.
My fuel pumps buzzing like crazy is that normal? It’s a bigger walbro
Please advise if I unblock my turbo salnoid I have p0243 and if I plug it in I have p0171 any advice, AUDI A4 B8 1.8 TSI
evap small leak along with lean condition.......my 99 buick century had that (it has no IAC)
turned out to be that the hose for the "evap purge soliniod...... the vavle on the engine that allows the EVAP gas into the intake.....fell off
put the hose back on...... and then the valve sat their and clicked.... sounded like a bad valve
stuck on a new purge soliniod..... same issue.....click click click
drove around like that for 3 months....and then it started to run REALLY bad
popped the hood........heard "WOOOOOOOOSSSHHHH"
ok, ive got a vacume leak somewhere
turned out, that replacement valve hammered it self apart (bosch brand)...... and about a 3/8s sized hole just open to the atmosphere....
stuck the original GM valve back on......hasnt ever clicked again....
i dont get it.....
Help! I keep getting a P1135 heater circuit code. I put a new Toyota A/F sensor, new Denso oxygen sensor, new Walker cat, precat is stock, no exhaust leaks. While vehicle is moving, no codes. When sitting in traffic at a stoplight, P1135 appears. I clear it on the spot, and continue driving, the code comes back again when I stop moving. 2001 4runner, 200K. Any input appreciated!
i have an 04 infiniti g35 have a running lean code on bank 1 p0171 car shut off with power still on idle fluctuates checked air leak & maf could it be fuel pump never changed has 155k miles please help thanks in advance 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
btw can’t pass smog due to code p0171
i have p0171 and p0174, on a chevy malibu maxx 05, 3.5L my fuel pump pressure reading is 22 PSI. what's the normal pressure for this car.
I have a 2004 Toyota Camry with 175,000 mi when I try to start it in the morning it's very hesitant and when I'm driving the car with air condition on there's little power is that the fuel pump ⛽
Great video 👍
Thank you
Im having an awful fuel trim issue which is running slightly lean on idle and very rich on partial. Would it be a boost leak? As i have stalling issue when starting a warm engine.
+turbochargedcoupe that is pretty much a classic boost leak. Or a bad MAF.
Love this guy
Thank you.
I had 3 codes on my Audi A4 Sedan B8 1.8TSI p2293 and p0243 I did change the high pressure feul pump and turbo Solenoid all codes gone but now having new code P0171 any advice the car drive but not 100% full power any advice please
Have a 1993 fprd bronco the fuel pump keeps running when key is on changed fuel regulator no difference wont crank
Can a bad fuel pump....cause a lean condition on only one bank, or is it more likely that it would cause it on both banks?
My stock fuel filter became clogged at exactly 148,000 miles. B5 1.8t.
hello! whats the best way to reach you? i have a question for my vr6 turbo my walbro 255 fuel pump primes on and off and it whines and when it stops it the car wont start and when i drive it it will shut off at random i dont know if the fuel pump is shot or im getting a shortage
I have an 06 beetle with a 2.5l. having problems with car. Came up with p0171 system lean. Took it to a VW dealer and they told me that it could be the fuel pump relay. Can this cause the car to stall and run rough? Car does start fine.
I’d be looking more at the pump. Lots of things I’ve seen on that engine cause p0171
@@HumbleMechanic thank you. Do you know where the relay is located in the 06 beetle? I was going to have it done at a VW dealership but they wanted almost $300 to work on it. I will appreciate your help. Thank you
Awesome show
Thank you. 💙
I can confirm first hand that this is defenitly a possibility. I had a Lean condition on my Touareg T1. First did a smoke test for intake leak. Nothing, then tested the fuel pumps one by one. Touareg has 2. If the secondary pump was also running no Lean condition. But When only the Main pump was running Lean condition fuel trim values were 25+ on Both banks. First changed fuel filter. Didn't help then changed the Main pump and this solved my Lean condition.
@mmlinx I have a T1 Touareg and it starts fine and revs up no problem idling. When accelerating, it looses power, almost like I'm not pressing the gas pedal. I have lean codes p0171 and p0174. Do you think it's my pumps? Thank you!
Hi I Have a Toyota highlander 2.7 engine, the recent problem that have with it, when I drive specially on the higher places it not claiming right and it's not speeding the speed is going lo Lower from 75 to 40 I change all the spark plugs but still have the same issue, and when I accelerate I hear king of clicking sound on the front passenger side, please let me know if I have a bad fuel pump or a bad transmission?
tough to say. Bad fuel pumps are usually dead. Any fault codes/check engine lights?
Hi Charles, many thanks for all the help. I've been getting this error code (P0171) very often recently. This usually occurs after the engine fails to idle but goes off except I throttle it a little. Whenever i brake, the engine goes off as I can't brake and throttle at the same time. The car stalled last night on my way home after a hard day's work and whenever I tried to start, it will fire up, idle poorly (@ about 200-300 RPM) and goes off the moment my leg touches the throttle. I had to tow it home. I suspect the fuel pump after watching this video. What do you think? Thanks in anticipation of your response.
Did you ever figure this out? My ram 1500 is doing the same thing
Just replaced the whole fuel pump on my 98 mustang GT (V8) and it's loud. Has a loud humming/whining sound while car is running.
Is this normal?
its absolutely normal. Because the pump is new you can now actually hear the pump working, when you idle. Over time when its getting older its getting less noisy.
Wouldn't there be oil on the floor if the valve cover gasket was loose?
Excellent question!
Hello Mr Charles
My name is Mark, thank you for your youtube channel, i have a v6 Cayenne 2004 with a vw vr6 engine, i have a code that keeps coming up, which is p2177 and p2179.
I have changed both fuel pumps
Maf has been cleaned
What else do you think it might be sir?
Will a bad fuel pump cause missfires on a 07 GTI?
I have a question... do you know a websites that sells engine mounts for a 1987 mk2 gti for a vr6 engine swap? If so can you link it to me? 😊
+Klaxz _ not sure off hand. How did you do the swap?
I have a 1997 Toyota Kerala sometimes it will run and sometimes it will not run will that be my fuel pump I put a new fuel pump regulator on it
Leaking valve cover causing lean codes that's a first for me
Yeah it’s crazy how some new cars behave
I have a 2001 Audi A4 quattro 1.8T. I have an intermittent P0171 lean code for about two years. Driving small distances doesn't usually trigger a P0171 code but when I drive on the freeway (in Hungary) at 120 km/h (at gear five) (and maybe uphill) I not just get a P0171 lean code but the check engine light comes on! When this happens I stop at the next gas station and delete the error code. Most of the time the check engine light does not come back (on the freeway) but the P0171 lean code does come back! I have replaced the fuel filter, cleaned the fuel injectors and the MAF sensor. The odometer shows about 76000 miles. To my best knowledge the odometer was not tempered! The oil is leaking somewhere , I am about to replace the valve cover gasket, half-moon gasket, etc. I was surprised to hear that the valve cover gasket leak can cause lean condition!
My car rpm could not go beyond 5000 rpm.. What is the problem?
my car dosent runs as usual i have loos power is its fule pump problem ?
Im planning on replacing my fuel pump anyways so it's step one
Why replace if you can measure? Check the pressure under load and the flow... If the pressure is bad it should hesitate under full accelartion (= full fuel use) Most pumps deliver 10 times more fuel than the engione uses, so the fuel pump is rarely the cullprit if it works. If it is loud, replace the filter first...
@@MrRfaass Mine was a bad relay the relay actually wasn’t giving the right amount of current to the pump causing it too run weak so it was still running but not at its full power so it wasn’t building enough pressure
I would believe so.
Hello, i have altima 2014 and my code is P0171 with engine and rpm shaking could any one help please what is the problem?
Did you figure out the issue?
P0420 puff puff pass my guy, puff puff pass... (sinks into couch)
but most of newer car they have filter on the fuel.pump.asssembly, and the mechanic is not going to get a headache trying to disassemble fuel pump assembly to just change fuel filter, a lot of work, and if the.pump is the problem, the mechanic has to change the pump again by removing the whole assembly, more work.
if the filter is.outside, that easy to change and see if the problem solved,
03 BMW codes p0171 bank one lean and p0175 bank two rich. Do you have any ideas please.
Need at least to know when is the vehicle lean, at idle or under load , or possibly even both. Impossible to determine anything without that ultimately important piece of information . Spend a few bucks and get an autel al319 , gives live data. When you have data, then you have a direction. It costs less than 50 bucks to get yourself pointed in the right direction
Hope you don't mind me chiming in
+New Level Auto good insight and I agree. So many techs don't use stored parameters. It's insane.
On the Autel, that is a good suggestion. I don't think it's for everyone. You still need to use the info to diag the issue. For some that's above their head. I don't mean that in a negative way at all.
HumbleMechanic I was just thinking that it makes it easier for us to help them when they ask these questions . And it's Keith, Charles , no need for formalities here 😁
I have a p0171 code and changed every sensor associated with it(some twice), ive checked for vac leaks and still have the code. Im fixing to change fuel pump, done spent several hundred and still cant pass emissions. But to pull out my hair!
I'm having the exact same issue!!!
Ever figure it out?
Did you find the fix?
I just bought a 2017 volvo xc90 (50k miles). I have p0171 with 0% stft and idle but at speed it jumps to over 50%. The fuel Guage looks like it's going down faster than normal too. Anyone?
I have a 02 Passat (B5.5) with the 1.8T it has some troubles starting every once and a while. Could that be the fuel pump?
P.S Love the videos, cant wait for more white wookie
Possible. I have found that they usually just die dead on that car. Check faults and see if you have a crank position sensor G28 fault.
The only fault that i know i have is the secondary air pump. The electrical connector broke off it. Although, I just have a cheapo OBDii reader. Thanks for the input!
I'll be excited for more Passat videos! Not enough good quality ones out there.
You always get so much information from The Humble Mechanic. Each and every question is covered in depth, with every conceivable probability covered. All presented with style, charisma and a bad-ass beard - unbeatable!
Hi I love your videos I was wondering if the King of golf could help me I have a golf velocity 2.0 I advance the timing the car jerks when I retard the timing the car has no low in power I have a brand new fuel pump and when I unplug the map sensor the jerking stops I don't wanna spend any unnecessary money the engine is a Ady I'm not sure what is the specifications on spark plugs could it be the spark plugs causing the jerking and also I am not sure where the vacuum line should connect for my fuel regulator it's connected to the hose coming from the inside of a car but that hose is not making any suction or pressure please please please please help me . Thank you love your videos keep up the good work