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Reporting Complaint to Consumer Affairs Why design a transmission that requires Dealer Service or Shop Labor for transmission flush & fill cant check my level s now 2012 Kia transmission is slipping .was told if i flush & fill the transmission oil It will fail completely 🤬 please Reply .

You can always take it apart at the top, and redo the seal,gasket or O-Rings, I rebuilt one of my old C/H die Grinder and she holds grease still today. That was over 6 years ago

I have one and I'm selling it. It works OK, but it's not a very intuitive tool. The middle valve is hard to figure out. If you turn it all the way to the left it fills the tank and will not release air in the outlet. If you turn it all the way to the right, it will release air from the outlet. If you have multiple tools you need an air compressor for it's good but if you are just trying to inflate a tire, I found the smaller Ryobi shrader valve compressor a lot more handy.

has this got 4gb ram? onboard? thanks............

Very informative video, especially with the fitting repair. Thanks for including that.

Yeah, my Matco has seen better years and I think its time for a new one, its about the same age as yours.

No not vice grips on that!!! Will out of round it. Use a Stillson wrench

On a friend's side post prior owner caretaker disabled the negative connection so an elderly person wouldn't drive so now all we have is the copper exposed copper to connect the side post I wonder if I can get a piece that will cover that copper so that just the bolt that goes into the side post will be showing, 1997 Buick Skylark, i ll take a pic, to get it started the new owner covered the copper with duct tape which I don't think is a long-term fix

The stone guard is insulating. your tubing which is the opposite of what you want--I think.

Would this work with the rx550

will the 6pin connecter woirk with the 3891

what size bolt is that? what size wrench do I need?

I'm doing this on a 91 G 30 Chevy Van 3/4 ton converted to a 1 ton for a wheel chair lift. I'm redoing rear leaves, back to 3/4 ton. Nightmare!

Is the eye of bushing to pin always the same front to rear?

It's a testament to how well things used to be made

I just bought that exact case for my Powerspec (Micro Center house brand) computer from 2014. Its original 300W PSU had started getting flaky. I didn't want to pay $$$ for a SFX one, so for about the same price I got a new modern case and Thermaltake 500W PSU. The Powerspec used all standard form factor parts, so no problems there.

In Dec. 2024, the 200W Dell 3880 PSUs on eBay are going from US$24 - $43

idk if you solved that squeak yet or not, but I had the same one and it was just the tension was too low on my belt. So I changed a new belt and made it a bit tighter and the startup sqeak went away.

Hi have same model. It won't build pressure over about 15psi. I think I have ruled out valves and leaks. When I hold my thumb over the output from the cylinders, I think I am able to block any air from pumping past my thumb. Is it time for a rebuild? Is there a kit or do I need a new pump?

I have actual monitors with VGA. Is there a way to actually set up dual screens using this PC and the VGA since all I get is mirroring. It doesn’t detect dual monitors. Thanks!

Just bought a 1995 escort 1.9 LX wagon one owner with only 45k miles on the thing ! these vids help a lot !!!

I know it’s 2y later now, but thanks for this video. Previous owner of my current project installed the wrong brake rotors in the front, the ones I pulled off were solid rotors that even outside where the badly fit pads rubbed only measured about half the proper brake rotor thickness. This also overextended the calipers and now I get to deal with that too.

Why not use a brake bleeder. You can close it without removing the hose

I got a stock one of these purely for a custom router for my homelab for 130 usd. i5 version.

I have a bare standard lightbulb in a simple porcelain bulb socket without a cover or shade, high up in my garage, which has been there for 14 years. Before I use this device to remove it, I intend to practice using this device removing and replacing standard light bulbs in similar bulb sockets in my unfinished basement, which I am tall enough to reach without a tool or ladder, so if I get into trouble using the tool, I can simply recover any mishaps by fixing it by hand (e.g., if the removing device gets stuck or the bulb breaks/separates from its base, etc.). I don't expect a mishap, but it's a good idea to practice if only to acquire a good "feel" for using the tool before I attack the bulb in the garage, which is high up and hard to remove if it's stuck in the socket from all the years its been up.

I'd like to use an LED replacement bulb like in this video. How did that bulb perform and where can I get one?

Great review. I just bought this bulb changer (I see a few simple ways to improve it if necessary--for example, applying Loctite or epoxy if the long handle sections tends to losen and gluing some non-slip rubber strips on the extractor, but I suspect it will work fine without those hacks).

Cool

Nice thanks Cool 😎

Hey sir, my laptop has both M.2 & MSata slots , the M.2 Nvme is occupied already but MSata slot is empty, . So my confusion is , can i install MSata? Am i able to use both at time? . Please reply ❤

Thank you for a excellent video. I just received my optical drive from dell, but they didn't include the bezel. So i'll be waiting for that to come before installing the drive.

It is actuality very helpful that your connectors leaked air while making this awesome vid. I'm sure there will be some of us viewers that will have this same air-leaking issue. So seeing you fix yours is wonderful bonus information. Thank you for not editing this out.

I just started the video, and paused it.. . I've got a few of those cheap HF compressors, 3 of the 20gallon, and 2 10's. The oiled ones, not the rattle traps. . The motor in my big compressor fried.. I needed something to get me through until I could repair. . Started with just one, then a second, fried one, and then a 3rd, and I'm not sure how it all went down at this point, but 3 of them still work.. 2 of them are fried.. I got the little ones because they were $50 cheaper (35%) and essentially the same compressor. . Rule #1 (I still haven't watched the video). Pay attention to the oil.. That's why I fried 2 of them, they ran a LOT!!! Far beyond what they were designed to do.. Make sure you can see the oil in the sight glass every few days.. Every month or so, drain 'em and fill 'em.. I just use straight 30 weight, its basically the same thing as "Compressor" oil, and its a lot cheaper, and it works well. I ran them hard, in a home shop, probably last 5 years without an oil change.. . Some of the fittings going to the pressure switch were bad, and were replaced as needed, just normal copper tube stuff, and the unloader valves were not the greatest and needed some massaging on occasion.. . For the price though.. I was impressed.. I still use 2 of them as accumulator tanks.. Far cheaper than buying a bare air tank, and in the deal you get a bonus powered air compressor head for free. . For the dollars.. I was really impressed with those compressors. I still am.. . One last thing.. You don't need 140psi.. Turn it down a smig, that also helped keep them alive, and cut down on the electricity. Its not in the manual, but its a bog standard pressure switch, just pop the cover off and turn the screws. . I'm going to go watch the video now, and see if my experiences match..

I want a copy of the disc

You are literally the exact kind of person who should NOT be working on vehicles. You break ****ing EVERYTHING. Bro. Why.

Thanks so much, very well done.

You wouldn't have to worry about cleaning your air fittings if you would put a dirt leg in line just after your valve. All you need is another T fitting, a cap, & 3- nipple's that are 3"-4" long. A nipple is a pieces of pipe thats threaded at both ends. To make a dirt leg you just need to use a 3"-4"long nipple out of your already existing valve then attach a T with a nipple & cap that point's down to thus catch any debris from your compressor, add another 3"-4"long nipple out the other end of the dirt leg T that you can then "re-attach" The T you have presently installed w/your double fitting/setup you are wanting to continue using. You will thank me in the future when you realise you only have to unscrew the dirt leg nipple w/cap once each year or so to clean out any debris or 💩 rather than have that 💩 end up inside your air tools & fittings, & causing you all sorts of headaches in the future! All you would need to do then to clean out the trap each year or so, would be; Just simply close the valve, then you'd just need to unscrew the dirt leg nipple w/cap that you would have installed w/the dirt leg trap=(the nipple & cap) you would have installed dropping out the bottom of the dirt leg T in line before your current T double fittings setup. That makes it easier & faster clean out any of that 💩 / like the dirt that had just found that caused your fitting to leak. Thus making your setup/system much easier to maintain & not possibly end up damaging other stuff in the long run! Because you will have thus trapped all that 💩in the dirt leg trap/the downward pointing nipple & cap. Otherwise you run a great chance of having all that 💩 like what you found in that fitting, end up being found not just inside your compressor, but you'd likely find it would end up running through if not eventually plugging up any if not all of the attached - air-fittings, hoses, & any air tools you might have decided to have used! Know what I'm saying? If you take the 15mins to add a dirt leg you would be Thus saving yourself loads of time & money in the future due to cleaning out, if not having to end up replacing any of parts & or tools that you didn't protect by installing a dirt leg. Because right now your current setup will continue filling everything full of 💩 like you just found in that fitting on your video! So you really need to install a dirt leg trap!!! That's a necessity honestly & this tip is coming from a guy who's been threading & installing gas pipe & water pipe for 25+ years give or take. So If you want to save yourself from loads of problems in the future ya should definitely take my advice. I mean if your wanting to be doing something to upgrade your compressor setup this is what you should be doing! If your wanting to improve things then you should really consider adding an upgrade That your system will truly benefit from, by improving how long your compressor & air tools fittings & hoses all end up lasting you! Then that's definitely the first thing should be doing aside from "Definitely cutting some of that plastic that's blocking your intake that you just newly made w/the air filter. At least that way you know that your compressor doesn't possibly end up having any restrictions to the intake airflow, not to mention doing so would be providing it with a better supply of both cool, & clean airflow! But that's just what I would do at the very least anyways if you were to ask me! But I like my projects to be a real improvement if I'm going to be putting my time into anything like your doing! With that said If you need any further help or advice feel free to message me, & I'll gladly do whatever I can to help out. Godbless

My Harbor Freight inflator blew up the first time that I used it.

Thank you for making this video. I was able to use my original 128 GB SSD as the second hard drive.

Did the air filter work right or not

Another approach for the casters is to get some 3/4" thick boards that match the widest between hole dimention and drill 6 holes at each end for 2 castrers/board. It makes your cart a little taller, but then you can use any plate casters that appeal to you.

A nice cap will keep junk out of your rarely used couplers. I saw a video that 1 guy uses baby socks as caps.

98 blazer need new leafspring shackles. They're shot paper thin. I guess i will take it to mechanic as i don't have right tool neither time and patience to tackle this rusty job. Blazer @ 265k daily drive still running great.

I recently acquired this pc from a local thrift store for 25 dollars. I've been out of pc gaming for about 15 years and I'm amazed at what it can run right out the box. I loaded Fallout 3 from my Steam account (which I hadn't opened since 2015) and it ran perfectly smooth and was such fun! I remember having to have a fairly beefy pc to run it way back when. I wish I hadn't thrown away all the graphics cards I went through back then. Anyways... I'm getting the bug again. Just tinkering around with my Inspiron is taking me back. I believe I'm just going to order a 1030 card though. I am tempted to upgrade everything but then I'm negating the fun budget gaming machine. 10 year old titles will be fin for me. I'm wanting to check out Soldier of Fortune double helix and see if any servers are up.

it may be your front PTO Clutch they tend to rattle

I did a frame off restoration on my dads 1974 Cub 149. It turned out great for a first time restoration. You can do it, took me about a year to complete, I did it on the weekends and taught myself to paint with a spray gun. I’m sure my dads looking down and smiling

Try adding a dirty leg before your air hose fittings.

If you could completely remove the volume limiter they would be great headphones.

Another option is to install a truck DV-2 auto-drain at the bottom of the tank. You can still keep your whip hose attached to side inlet.

ORRRR how about buying a decent compressor?