Laundry soda (sodium carbonate) works even better than baking soda (sodium bicarbonate), but both work. A standard 10 amp 12V charger works fine. I often use an old scrap of rebar instead of a tin can. When the the rebar starts to load up with rust, I see the current drop. I clean the rebar on a wire wheel, then put it back and see current increase.
@Common Sense Realist I usually start with 24 hours in vinegar for an old axe. A hit of the wire wheel after that, and I can see the temper line. Electrolysis or Evapo-Rust (chelation) comes after that.
If you sand a small area with fine sandpaper where the cathode wires are attached to the tool to expose bare metal, the time required will decrease due to a better electrical connection; iron oxide conductivity is poor. Also, if you use coated wire except for the connection to the tool, the water electrolysis (hydrogen generation) will be less. Notice the bubbles on the wires to the tool and the anode. Nice choice of anode, the can will allow a good electrical path to most of the tool. If you could use a large can that the tool completely fit within, that would work even faster.
Thanks for this informative video. I guess some of the commenters missed the fact that this video was all about how to make and use electrolysis to remove rust, not restoring the tool.
I do this procedure but instead of baking soda I use super washing soda as it to me is a better option and instead of a power supply I use a battery charger set to 2 amps. The sacrifice piece is a piece of rebar.!
For those of you watching this video, you should be using "Washing Soda" (sodium carbonate) not "Baking Soda" (sodium bicarbonate) for the electrolysis process.
Agreed, both has similar results. All it does is make the water conductive, even using regular dishwashing liquid will work. I have used baby shampoo before with good results, and it smells good. ;-)
I dont know that it matters much if its carbonate or bi- carbonate.. Either works great. Just dont use table salt because that produces chlorine gas which can kill you..
Thanks for the great educational video, and a huge thanks for not ruining it with crappy background music. I don't know why some people are compelled to add annoying background music throughout the video.
Good video 😎 Get an old car battery charge it up pour all the acid out and use a paint brush to paint it on, Dissolves the rust instantly Removes every trace of it Or soak in vinegar for a few days, I've restored loads old tools I Found in a quarry using white vinegar 😃
Safer, healthier, and so much cheaper.... White vinegar.... Glass container and cover the rusted object totally. Works perfectly every single time. Even faster if you heat up the vinegar.
When I'm doing electrolysis, I use washing soda, and an adjustable power suppy. It's pretty safe, and it works better than I could ever get vinegar to. Can't get it to electrocute me if I tried, and the solution isn't poisonous or bad for the environment at all. But I had the power supply on hand for electroplating. I'm not sure I'd want to use a computer power supply, like in the video.
Felicidades que exelente forma de presentar las herramientas y muy bien explicado..aunque no se mucho de lenguaje inglés..pero entendí todo..mi admiración y respeto...un gusto ver su video...un abrazo patrio!1
I've always wanted to know how to do this, and you made a video on how to. I Liked and Subscribed, Thank you for creating this video and for sharing your talent. 👍👍👍👍👍
@@Alazim7890 I was replying t o Michael S, who was making fun of the creator of this video for his lack of language skills. And I was like... Well how many languages do you speak bruh? The guy who did this vid probably speaks 2 or more! That's what I mean.
On electrical supply: Using a 12V supply @ 2A (suggested in another comment) is probably a little overkill, but the higher the wattage (12V*2A=24W) the faster the derusting (just don't get silly with it). I have used an old cheap USB charger plug which is only 5V @ 0.5A(max) which would be 2.5W. It takes longer, but the results are generally the same (with properly sized cathode). Patience with smaller wattages, but if you have the time it doesn't require constant attention. Also, the baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) is only in the water to raise it's conductivity =slightly=, salt would also work (I have used it) but with salt you might have a more immediate chance of an oxide layer form (iron/steels) afterward. A good wash and dry immediately after derusting would probably fix that. Make sure the part is completely submerged. Try to use a flat(ish) cathode with about the same mass as the part. Make sure the part and the cathode are secured in the container and *cannot* touch each other. And remember that wet skin is =much= more conductive than dry skin; best to just use rubber gloves and avoid the water when dealing with this and always respect the potentials involved. I'm not going to say this is a super dangerous process, but it is water and electricity and getting bit sucks.
ONE OTHER THING.... Take a utility knife and blades, and SCRAPE OFF the heaviest rust. This goes quickly, and you can see a lot of good metal right away. This will save you a TON of time and other effort. THEN use the electrolysis.
Electrolysis. What a fascinating name. It has Electro and Lysis in it. There’s the battery, then the plugs and now the can. The can is opened and sawed into a split. Drilling, looks like a fascinating project in these hands. Soap cleans iron, and electric battery cleaning scraps rust right off like it was an easy dish stain. This is not the first video I watched that amounted to powder aiding in the battery cleaning process and how it cleaned without touching any form of electrolytes? Wow. It’s all basic clean for hours on end, plus the effects of positive and negative power. It all had become a complicated muck of orange, yellow, brown and gray resulting from this much rust and aging of the vise. Then it was scrubbed a few more times to eliminate rust completely until the whole body turned gray. You probably know it’s gray from being a newly melted iron. I had realized that the vises were used in countless woodworking projects like at school. I recalled making stuff out of wood using vises. The whole story about the vise makes me realize how much I’ve learned in shops and it wasn’t that hard getting good grades. I’ll bet this is not new to me because I’ve seen this kind of cleaning in some restoration videos. I’m blown away. Love it too.
This is very interesting and enjoyable. Can anyone comment what is the chemical composition of the fluid in the electrolysis bucket after the procedure, and how can it be safely discarded? (It looks a little unwholesome). Thanks
to my knowledge (which is not too professional) all this is doing is creating iron oxide (the unsavoury black goop) and some gases. one thing to note is NEVER EVER use stainless steel as your anode or else youll create hexavalent chromium which is a neurotoxin and carcinogen among other things, and thatll need to be professionally handled as toxic waste haha. so as long as youre using the correct metals and doing this in a well ventilated area youre all good to dump it whereever, if youd like you can be doubly safe and dilute it with some hose water haha. if youre really unsure you can contact your local authorities or waste management wherever you are and ask them about the proper disposal here. with any home chem as silly as it sounds youve gotta do a ton of research to make sure youre doing it right and not making something toxic.
why not disassemble it first before doing this? wouldnt this leave rust in the parts where the threaded bolt is covered? seems like sandblasting them after taking it apart would be easier
Exactly what I was thinking after seeing the final result. Spray some liquid wrench on the threads, prop it up to let it soak down for a couple hours until its unstuck. Then sandblast it and not only will the rust be gone, but it will look much better in the end.
So, were you able to remove the stuck screw?. I have noticed parts that are close together don't seem to get as clean as the rest of the parts? I would try a little heat first because it's easier and faster. Then you can do a complete teardown. Depending on if you are just wanting a working vice or complete restoration. Thank you for taking time to post this.
When was the last time that car had cooling system flushed and filled ? If one don't remember, chances are it's either been too long ago or has never been done.
@@AndrewMDairo : It can help, to do the flush and fill, also don't forget to use 2 bottles of cooling system cleaner 2 shots in 1 go, and lots and lots of water, and warm ups.
На сутки его опустить в раствор каустической соды , или средство для прочистки канализаций - эффект в разы лучше , и не надо электролиз проводить! Я так делал.
Hola. No deberian estar aislado por donde llega y sale la electricidad??? Por que en la solucion seria la parte conductiva.. si es asi.. por que conectas un polo a la lata y el otro a la pieza??
You can leave it in for a week if u want.. This method will only attack the rust.. After removal and cleanup, you need to spray some lubricant of some type or it will flash rust quickly...
I work sometimes with cast iron cleaning and usually just grind the rust off and It’s been very poor in my work place cause I use a grinder with no guard and it’s hard to reach certain places what would you recommend for cast iron ?
The most economical, famous and easiest way is to dip rusted part in Hydrochloric acid solution and leave it in it till all the rust is removed automatically.
I prefer phosphoric acid. It dissolves the rust just as effectively (only slightly slower), but it is much less damaging to everything else. Skin, lungs, eyes, and the metal itself for example.
You can use a welding machine, but I don't think its a good idea. I am not sure if the welding machine will enjoy staying on for long periods. Also the amount of amps will be too high, unless you use less baking or washing soda in your solution. It will be trial and error, try it on something you don't mind throwing away and first get your ratios ready and then if you want to risk it, go for the part you want to de rust. (I would probably not use a welding machine)
@@AJRestoration ok thanks bro i get it. I used less soda and i set up it with 320V but now i think i will stop and i will buy a machine charger. By the way it works the rust comes out and there is the reaction. But for to be sure i do Not make some damage now i will stop it.
So what is happening I followed the steps tested my car charger prior to doing it I get 12vdc when I connect it to the wires coming of the can and the wire coming off the tool the power supply drops to maybe 1 Vdc
3 Questions, the anode and cathode should not touch from each other in d bucket? Ur electrolytic subs is only baking soda? Can I use hanger wires for conduction?
Been there done that and blown the rectifier - fit an online car fuse to prevent this happening to you. Before you switch on you can do a continuity test to make sure there is no contact. [it can be hard to see in a non transparent tank or with a murky solution]
If you have a powersupply, the red wire is usually the positive, and black is negative. It is safest to use a multimeter if you are not sure about polarity. I have also explained in the video how you can determine polarity by observing where the bubbles are coming from.
If youre looking for polarity, you can dip both wires into water without touching and the power is on, wait until you see bubbles come out of one of the wires and thats your negative.
AC at mains voltage is extremely dangerous. But also, it won’t work because the current alternates and therefore the workpiece is alternatively between cathode and anode. The workpiece needs to stay as the cathode so you need to use DC.
I tried this this weekend with a NAPA 6amp car battery charger, I couldn't get it to do anything. The only thing I didn't do was completely submerge it.. do both need to be completely submerged? I tried with out the wire I wonder if that's where it went wrong
Usually, you don't need to completely submerge it, It could be that the wires are coated with something and did not make contact. You can also test your power supply and see if it is working as intended. Make sure the parts in the solution do not touch, it shorts out the power supply. Also see if the solution does not have too much baking soda or electrolyte, the stronger the electrolyte the more amps it will draw and some power supplies do not like that. Did you see any bubbles rise from the part you wanted to clean? Let me know if that helps, maybe we can identify what went wrong.
@@AJRestoration I actually just ran to Lowes and bought some wire and completely submerged both my old engine part and the sacrificial coffee can.. still nothing! I think this little car battery charger isn't doing right, it only has a red power on light and a green light (to show when its charging an actual battery) I have charged several of my batteries with it but maybe its limited on performing this?
Unless you got the old charger that not automatic or led smart to it or else you can't use those charger. What you can do with your is use an extra batteries then hook up charger to the batteries and then hook up the batteries to the metal you want to remove rust. That way the batteries will do the work and the charger will charge the batteries.
@@TuanTran-zp8bt I found that out after doing some digging! But didn’t know what you just mentioned about using the battery! So basically I could hook up the smart charger to a car battery.. get some alligator clamp an run leads from the car battery to the metal and that would work?
@@jmitchell513 yes, so use the car batteries to hook up the metal and the reason u use charger hook to batteries so your batteries don't ran out of juice and continue give out engouh power. The charger will charge the batteries while the batteries is doing the work.
Ahhh.... hey buddy, doesn't make more sense to dissolve the baking soda in the bucket of water before you pour it into the bucket where the rusty part and the anode will be used for the electrolysis process?
@@AJRestoration it works really good. I have saved many motorcycle tanks this way. It usually takes two days. I reuse the vinegar a few times. Just let the sludge settle then pour off the clear stuff off of the top.
@@AJRestoration Yes. What I do is rinse the tank out very well with water and I let it dry out with some air. Then I put a little bit of oil mix with some gasoline in it and swish it around inside
Great video! I need help with a project of mine. I need to de-rust the inside of my motorcycle fuel tank. What should I do if I can't scrub the inside of the tank? Please advise. Thanks and awesome video once again!
Thank you, The best option is to wash it out as good as you can, let it dry and fill it with Evaporust or something similar. Let it sit for a few days, recover the rust remover solution for another day's use, let the tank dry and I think you should be good to go. I have not done it before, but that is what I would attempt.
@@AJRestoration Great news! It's almost as good as new when I painted it over with POR15 after removing the rust. Thanks for the advice. Wishing you the best!
For your bike tank, I would clean it out the best you can using your preferred method. Then, to seal it use "Kreme" per the directions that comes with it. It is a tank sealer specifically made for that. I hope this helps.🏍
I cleaned out a rust wooly 200 l diesel tank for my wheel loader with water up to the rust level and one liter phosporic acid. This acid will take the rust and not so much the metal. After several days the tank was perfectly clean from this rust layer that loosened and clogged the prefilter. The error previous owner had done was to fill the tank to a low level from 20 l canisters. So theres room for condensation. Be sure to check suspicious spots for leakage before you mount it back and fills it with 100 liters of fuel. I made that mistake... I also used some cleaning agent for cleaning toilettes and more that contains phsporic acid. There can be hard to buy real phosporic acid in some countrys for a private citizen. We have in Sweden something called kalkbort its like a thickened so you csn just use a brush and put it on the rusty part and it will cling on the surfaces for some time. Kalkbort is for clenaing off calcium in the bathroom... and be careful use protection for your eyes and hands...
If the anode (can) touches the cathode (tool), won't that cause a short circuit and damage your charger/wires? If so, then this setup is not very safe.
@@AJRestoration It just seemed to me that the anode/cathode are a little unsteady AND that they are in very close proximity of each other. Overall, I think that it's a nice, minimalist setup, but perhaps it would benefit from an additional tweak which would ensure that the anode/cathode don't make direct contact.
A short will not harm you but will fry the rectified in the power supply. Most chargers have fuse, but if yours does no, fit an inline fuse carrier in the dc positive lead to the tank
its a plain steel can, but do be aware most of these will be coated with some type of lacquer and will not conduct electricity to the water very well. Use any old scraps of steel that you don't want to keep
Hola saludos desde Argentina, pidrias habilitar los subtitulos, mi ingles no es bueno, y los terminos son distintos, ya guardé el video muy buena la explicacion muchas gracias, tengo varias fuentes de pc, saludos, ojalá tengas mucho trabajo💪💪💪💪🤜🏻🤛🏻🇦🇷🙋🏻♂️te acabo de sumar a los canales que me gustan...!!! 🙋🏻♂️🤜🏻🤛🏻
Laundry soda (sodium carbonate) works even better than baking soda (sodium bicarbonate), but both work. A standard 10 amp 12V charger works fine. I often use an old scrap of rebar instead of a tin can. When the the rebar starts to load up with rust, I see the current drop. I clean the rebar on a wire wheel, then put it back and see current increase.
@Common Sense Realist I usually start with 24 hours in vinegar for an old axe. A hit of the wire wheel after that, and I can see the temper line. Electrolysis or Evapo-Rust (chelation) comes after that.
Scrap Stainless steel works well and can be wiped clean. Also 12v (18-22v) solar panels work by themselves as power source.
Thanks, I’ll try stainless. Might even have a solar panel around here.👍@@neomateo944
@@neomateo944stainless should NOT be used with electrolysis!
@@cody2097 Why not
If you sand a small area with fine sandpaper where the cathode wires are attached to the tool to expose bare metal, the time required will decrease due to a better electrical connection; iron oxide conductivity is poor. Also, if you use coated wire except for the connection to the tool, the water electrolysis (hydrogen generation) will be less. Notice the bubbles on the wires to the tool and the anode.
Nice choice of anode, the can will allow a good electrical path to most of the tool. If you could use a large can that the tool completely fit within, that would work even faster.
Thanks for the tips. I will keep this in mind.
Thanks for this informative video. I guess some of the commenters missed the fact that this video was all about how to make and use electrolysis to remove rust, not restoring the tool.
And failed at that as well. 😎
I do this procedure but instead of baking soda I use super washing soda as it to me is a better option and instead of a power supply I use a battery charger set to 2 amps. The sacrifice piece is a piece of rebar.!
Can you make a video please
@@danielrebolledo1479 I shit my pants?
I use washing sofa too - it works better!
04:00 The mixture of water and bicarbonate must be done before (for a complete dilution) and with hot water to improve the process‼
Makes sense!
Excellent video. I use viniger for 24 hour it works well. There will be sludge in the viniger. I restored all rust damages tool to perfect condition.
Thanks for sharing
For those of you watching this video, you should be using "Washing Soda" (sodium carbonate) not "Baking Soda" (sodium bicarbonate) for the electrolysis process.
Agreed, both has similar results. All it does is make the water conductive, even using regular dishwashing liquid will work. I have used baby shampoo before with good results, and it smells good. ;-)
I dont know that it matters much if its carbonate or bi- carbonate.. Either works great. Just dont use table salt because that produces chlorine gas which can kill you..
You can make sodium carbonate easily by just heating sodium bicarbonate at 100 degrees Celcius
@@andyloescher2401 are you sure it is 200C and not 200F? thought it was 200 Fahrenheit for 1 hour
@@Midnightgamer00 damn oops. I meant 100C
Thanks for the great educational video, and a huge thanks for not ruining it with crappy background music. I don't know why some people are compelled to add annoying background music throughout the video.
Thanks for watching!
Because they think they are smart 🤣🇩🇰
What about luve Led Zeppelin 1973, though?
Good video 😎
Get an old car battery charge it up pour all the acid out and use a paint brush to paint it on,
Dissolves the rust instantly
Removes every trace of it
Or soak in vinegar for a few days,
I've restored loads old tools I Found in a quarry using white vinegar 😃
Safer, healthier, and so much cheaper.... White vinegar.... Glass container and cover the rusted object totally. Works perfectly every single time. Even faster if you heat up the vinegar.
Ok MamaBear...some of us drink Monster Energy for breakfast, not oats...
I'm all for the safer route👍👍
When you say "heat up" is that just a case of putting the vinegar in a pan and heating?
When I'm doing electrolysis, I use washing soda, and an adjustable power suppy. It's pretty safe, and it works better than I could ever get vinegar to. Can't get it to electrocute me if I tried, and the solution isn't poisonous or bad for the environment at all.
But I had the power supply on hand for electroplating. I'm not sure I'd want to use a computer power supply, like in the video.
@@Savagedownsouth j
How is vinegar cheaper?
Felicidades que exelente forma de presentar las herramientas y muy bien explicado..aunque no se mucho de lenguaje inglés..pero entendí todo..mi admiración y respeto...un gusto ver su video...un abrazo patrio!1
Finally, someone who isn’t a pssy always giving warnings
I've always wanted to know how to do this, and you made a video on how to. I Liked and Subscribed, Thank you for creating this video and for sharing your talent. 👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks for subbing! I am glad I could help you out!
Just curious what will happen if I don’t confidently add the degreaser because I typically add nervously?
So, you confidently speak only one language?
@@mb4lunch what do you mean?
@@Alazim7890 I was replying t o Michael S, who was making fun of the creator of this video for his lack of language skills. And I was like... Well how many languages do you speak bruh? The guy who did this vid probably speaks 2 or more! That's what I mean.
Good information. Better if had dismantled and done the proses.thank you..
On electrical supply: Using a 12V supply @ 2A (suggested in another comment) is probably a little overkill, but the higher the wattage (12V*2A=24W) the faster the derusting (just don't get silly with it). I have used an old cheap USB charger plug which is only 5V @ 0.5A(max) which would be 2.5W. It takes longer, but the results are generally the same (with properly sized cathode). Patience with smaller wattages, but if you have the time it doesn't require constant attention.
Also, the baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) is only in the water to raise it's conductivity =slightly=, salt would also work (I have used it) but with salt you might have a more immediate chance of an oxide layer form (iron/steels) afterward. A good wash and dry immediately after derusting would probably fix that.
Make sure the part is completely submerged. Try to use a flat(ish) cathode with about the same mass as the part. Make sure the part and the cathode are secured in the container and *cannot* touch each other. And remember that wet skin is =much= more conductive than dry skin; best to just use rubber gloves and avoid the water when dealing with this and always respect the potentials involved. I'm not going to say this is a super dangerous process, but it is water and electricity and getting bit sucks.
Strangely soothing to watch...🙄😳
So beautiful sound or rain , i love this
ONE OTHER THING....
Take a utility knife and blades, and SCRAPE OFF the heaviest rust. This goes quickly, and you can see a lot of good metal right away.
This will save you a TON of time and other effort.
THEN use the electrolysis.
is that necessary to always spin the table?
Yes, it is how I show the before and after
Can i put 5 rusted wrenchs together on - wire or i need to.do one by one ?!
I am new in this sorry
Yes can!
Electrolysis. What a fascinating name. It has Electro and Lysis in it. There’s the battery, then the plugs and now the can. The can is opened and sawed into a split. Drilling, looks like a fascinating project in these hands. Soap cleans iron, and electric battery cleaning scraps rust right off like it was an easy dish stain. This is not the first video I watched that amounted to powder aiding in the battery cleaning process and how it cleaned without touching any form of electrolytes? Wow. It’s all basic clean for hours on end, plus the effects of positive and negative power.
It all had become a complicated muck of orange, yellow, brown and gray resulting from this much rust and aging of the vise. Then it was scrubbed a few more times to eliminate rust completely until the whole body turned gray. You probably know it’s gray from being a newly melted iron. I had realized that the vises were used in countless woodworking projects like at school. I recalled making stuff out of wood using vises.
The whole story about the vise makes me realize how much I’ve learned in shops and it wasn’t that hard getting good grades. I’ll bet this is not new to me because I’ve seen this kind of cleaning in some restoration videos.
I’m blown away. Love it too.
And.....it's still stuck 🤣 Removed a lot of rust though, good job.
Thank you very much!
This is very interesting and enjoyable. Can anyone comment what is the chemical composition of the fluid in the electrolysis bucket after the procedure, and how can it be safely discarded? (It looks a little unwholesome). Thanks
to my knowledge (which is not too professional) all this is doing is creating iron oxide (the unsavoury black goop) and some gases. one thing to note is NEVER EVER use stainless steel as your anode or else youll create hexavalent chromium which is a neurotoxin and carcinogen among other things, and thatll need to be professionally handled as toxic waste haha. so as long as youre using the correct metals and doing this in a well ventilated area youre all good to dump it whereever, if youd like you can be doubly safe and dilute it with some hose water haha. if youre really unsure you can contact your local authorities or waste management wherever you are and ask them about the proper disposal here. with any home chem as silly as it sounds youve gotta do a ton of research to make sure youre doing it right and not making something toxic.
@@accuwau thanks - very informative and helpful
why not disassemble it first before doing this? wouldnt this leave rust in the parts where the threaded bolt is covered? seems like sandblasting them after taking it apart would be easier
Sandblasting, muriatic acid, wire wheeling all would have likely worked better, but would have defeated the purpose of the video.
Exactly what I was thinking after seeing the final result. Spray some liquid wrench on the threads, prop it up to let it soak down for a couple hours until its unstuck. Then sandblast it and not only will the rust be gone, but it will look much better in the end.
Very good friend. Hugs from Brazil.
So, were you able to remove the stuck screw?. I have noticed parts that are close together don't seem to get as clean as the rest of the parts? I would try a little heat first because it's easier and faster. Then you can do a complete teardown. Depending on if you are just wanting a working vice or complete restoration. Thank you for taking time to post this.
good video, thanks for not adding crappy music. a little narrative might be nice also.
Noted! Thank you!
Can i use this in my radiator?
There seems to be a lot of rust mixing with my coolant.
I cant give you any advice on how to fix your car. For that its better to talk to a professional in the field.
Most radiators are aluminum and plastic today if you got rust but no leak then try a coolant flush and you should be good
When was the last time that car had cooling system flushed and filled ?
If one don't remember, chances are it's either been too long ago or has never been done.
@@theroyalcrownedtiger2946 I haven't had it flushed since i acquired it.
Do you think that will solve it?
@@AndrewMDairo : It can help, to do the flush and fill, also don't forget to use 2 bottles of cooling system cleaner 2 shots in 1 go, and lots and lots of water, and warm ups.
На сутки его опустить в раствор каустической соды , или средство для прочистки канализаций - эффект в разы лучше , и не надо электролиз проводить! Я так делал.
Thanks
Pls advise can we do this process on brass items to get more shiny 🙂
Brasso?
Aj restorations what the voltage on the power supply how many Volts it requires when placing in water solution?????
Try watching the video
I have a lipo Charger that's supports DC charging up to 18volts. Will that work?
Yes, just keep a close eye on the charger so it does not overheat. If the current is too high, dilute the electrolyte by adding fresh water.
U ever try sodium carbonate found in Washing soda....the baking soda loses it's punch after a few minutes....it still works but slower
Thank you for the information.
I liked your opening!
As soon as i saw Autogear as the brand of the car battery charger i immediately said this guy is South African
Spot on! Haha
If you left it in the solution longer would it have removed more rust? Will it ever get all of it?
Hola. No deberian estar aislado por donde llega y sale la electricidad??? Por que en la solucion seria la parte conductiva.. si es asi.. por que conectas un polo a la lata y el otro a la pieza??
WHAT DID THE POWER SUPPLY COME OUT OF ?
IT LOOKS LIKE MAYBE A COMPUTER.
I WOULD LOVE TO KNOW IT LOOKS SIMPLE TO USE.
Looks like LED strip power supply to me...
Yes it came from a computer i have some of those
Nice. I use a wire wheel brush. Much easier .
And what about tools that still haver some Paint in The Surface besides The Rust? It Will remove The Paint aswell??
Be careful not to use any chrome coated metals or stainless steel as these can release chromium-6 (highly toxic) in this process.
Yes
What was the elapsed time for electrolysis ?
I think it was 24 hours.
You can leave it in for a week if u want.. This method will only attack the rust.. After removal and cleanup, you need to spray some lubricant of some type or it will flash rust quickly...
Nice job my frend
Thank you! Cheers!
How long did you soak it?
I work sometimes with cast iron cleaning and usually just grind the rust off and It’s been very poor in my work place cause I use a grinder with no guard and it’s hard to reach certain places what would you recommend for cast iron ?
The most economical, famous and easiest way is to dip rusted part in Hydrochloric acid solution and leave it in it till all the rust is removed automatically.
I prefer phosphoric acid. It dissolves the rust just as effectively (only slightly slower), but it is much less damaging to everything else. Skin, lungs, eyes, and the metal itself for example.
@@CL-gq3no I've also seen other TH-camrs use citric acid or oxalic acid. Both pretty mild. Yeah, HCl is strong stuff...
Good drill. Makita 18v
What type of wire did you use?
Now i'm asking
What had been happened to this can that you used it as An anode?
Did it gain in weight, didn't it?
The rust do attach to the sacrificial anode, so in theory it should gain weight.
After your process, wouldn't it be a good idea to Nickel plate it, to get a good finish?
Possibly yes.
I bet it would be. I have no anodizing experience
Thank you master 🙏🏼
You are very welcome
White vinegar works well, is safe and also works on aluminium 😉
Thanks for the tip!
Can i use a welding machin for this process if i do Not have a battery charger?
You can use a welding machine, but I don't think its a good idea. I am not sure if the welding machine will enjoy staying on for long periods. Also the amount of amps will be too high, unless you use less baking or washing soda in your solution. It will be trial and error, try it on something you don't mind throwing away and first get your ratios ready and then if you want to risk it, go for the part you want to de rust. (I would probably not use a welding machine)
@@AJRestoration ok thanks bro i get it. I used less soda and i set up it with 320V but now i think i will stop and i will buy a machine charger. By the way it works the rust comes out and there is the reaction. But for to be sure i do Not make some damage now i will stop it.
You mentioned that we need a charger and a power supply. But in the process you only use the power supply? what the charger do in thís process? thanks
A charger, or a power supply. Both will work. A 12v battery will also work.
Thank you for your prompt reply
Great question, I was going to ask the same thing
Great video thanks sir for that
We have here baking powder
Is it and baking soda are the same?
Hi There. Unfortunately Baking Powder and Baking Soda are not the same thing.
So what is happening I followed the steps tested my car charger prior to doing it I get 12vdc when I connect it to the wires coming of the can and the wire coming off the tool the power supply drops to maybe 1 Vdc
This is cool
Thank you Shanna!
Great content !
Thank you! 😊
Can we use a copper wire for the connections?
tHank you, That was fun watching
Pool acid is the best 👌
Why didn’t you disassemble it first so it cleans up under the immovable movable jaw?
And use muriatic acid.
How can you disassemble something that is "immovable"? Doh.
just as a little science experiment, could you do this by running 3x 9v batteries (in parallel) instead of a power supply or is that too low amperage?
That would work yes. I think so anyways.
You want the amps to be low. The lower, the slower it works, but works better
You want the amps to be low. The lower, the slower it works, but works better
You want the amps to be low. The lower, the slower it works, but works better
Can domestic AC current done the job.
No, that can kill you. 5 to 12v DC ONLY!
disassemble everything to get better results.
Nice!
Amigo, pudiste usar vinagre durante 12 horas y te viera quedado muy bien.
3 Questions, the anode and cathode should not touch from each other in d bucket? Ur electrolytic subs is only baking soda? Can I use hanger wires for conduction?
No they should not touch, that creates a dead short and could damage your power supply. Yes you can as long as it is conductive it will work.
Been there done that and blown the rectifier - fit an online car fuse to prevent this happening to you. Before you switch on you can do a continuity test to make sure there is no contact. [it can be hard to see in a non transparent tank or with a murky solution]
Great job guys!
Thank you Deon!
How can i determine which wire is the negative and which is positive in my power supply..?
I really do need an answer
Does it depend on colors?
If you have a powersupply, the red wire is usually the positive, and black is negative. It is safest to use a multimeter if you are not sure about polarity. I have also explained in the video how you can determine polarity by observing where the bubbles are coming from.
@@AJRestoration what an answer 🤍
Now i almost have the whole tools
Thank you
If youre looking for polarity, you can dip both wires into water without touching and the power is on, wait until you see bubbles come out of one of the wires and thats your negative.
@@r3_d2LKG .that's really helpful
Thanks
Nice job mate.
Thanks for the visit
How long did it take?
I had it in there for 24 hours if I remember correctly.
Why not Ac power instead of dc power. Is it posibel??
Ac Mains is extremely dangerous, it could kill you.
AC at mains voltage is extremely dangerous. But also, it won’t work because the current alternates and therefore the workpiece is alternatively between cathode and anode. The workpiece needs to stay as the cathode so you need to use DC.
I tried this this weekend with a NAPA 6amp car battery charger, I couldn't get it to do anything. The only thing I didn't do was completely submerge it.. do both need to be completely submerged? I tried with out the wire I wonder if that's where it went wrong
Usually, you don't need to completely submerge it, It could be that the wires are coated with something and did not make contact. You can also test your power supply and see if it is working as intended. Make sure the parts in the solution do not touch, it shorts out the power supply. Also see if the solution does not have too much baking soda or electrolyte, the stronger the electrolyte the more amps it will draw and some power supplies do not like that. Did you see any bubbles rise from the part you wanted to clean? Let me know if that helps, maybe we can identify what went wrong.
@@AJRestoration I actually just ran to Lowes and bought some wire and completely submerged both my old engine part and the sacrificial coffee can.. still nothing! I think this little car battery charger isn't doing right, it only has a red power on light and a green light (to show when its charging an actual battery) I have charged several of my batteries with it but maybe its limited on performing this?
Unless you got the old charger that not automatic or led smart to it or else you can't use those charger. What you can do with your is use an extra batteries then hook up charger to the batteries and then hook up the batteries to the metal you want to remove rust. That way the batteries will do the work and the charger will charge the batteries.
@@TuanTran-zp8bt I found that out after doing some digging! But didn’t know what you just mentioned about using the battery! So basically I could hook up the smart charger to a car battery.. get some alligator clamp an run leads from the car battery to the metal and that would work?
@@jmitchell513 yes, so use the car batteries to hook up the metal and the reason u use charger hook to batteries so your batteries don't ran out of juice and continue give out engouh power. The charger will charge the batteries while the batteries is doing the work.
I assume that the bucket contains a toxic solution after the process. How do you dispose of it safely?
non toxic - I throw it over a weed patch and it does not kill the weeds - for that you need weed killer
Awesome.
Thanks!
@@AJRestoration urwel bro.i will try at home
Ahhh.... hey buddy, doesn't make more sense to dissolve the baking soda in the bucket of water before you pour it into the bucket where the rusty part and the anode will be used for the electrolysis process?
Can I use 9V battery?
Yes you can.
expensive way of doing it - but yes
Apple cider vinegar. It’s easy. It’s how I make gas tanks look new inside.
I actually want to try that when I find another small motor with a rusted tank.
@@AJRestoration it works really good. I have saved many motorcycle tanks this way. It usually takes two days. I reuse the vinegar a few times. Just let the sludge settle then pour off the clear stuff off of the top.
That is good to know actually. I had to use acid in a tank before, but it tends to rust just as quick again.
@@AJRestoration Yes. What I do is rinse the tank out very well with water and I let it dry out with some air. Then I put a little bit of oil mix with some gasoline in it and swish it around inside
Great video!
I need help with a project of mine. I need to de-rust the inside of my motorcycle fuel tank. What should I do if I can't scrub the inside of the tank? Please advise. Thanks and awesome video once again!
Thank you, The best option is to wash it out as good as you can, let it dry and fill it with Evaporust or something similar. Let it sit for a few days, recover the rust remover solution for another day's use, let the tank dry and I think you should be good to go. I have not done it before, but that is what I would attempt.
Have a look at this video, this might help as well.
th-cam.com/video/y8HEZ-x4-_w/w-d-xo.html
@@AJRestoration Great news! It's almost as good as new when I painted it over with POR15 after removing the rust. Thanks for the advice. Wishing you the best!
For your bike tank, I would clean it out the best you can using your preferred method.
Then, to seal it use "Kreme" per the directions that comes with it. It is a tank sealer specifically made for that.
I hope this helps.🏍
I cleaned out a rust wooly 200 l diesel tank for my wheel loader with water up to the rust level and one liter phosporic acid. This acid will take the rust and not so much the metal. After several days the tank was perfectly clean from this rust layer that loosened and clogged the prefilter. The error previous owner had done was to fill the tank to a low level from 20 l canisters. So theres room for condensation. Be sure to check suspicious spots for leakage before you mount it back and fills it with 100 liters of fuel. I made that mistake... I also used some cleaning agent for cleaning toilettes and more that contains phsporic acid. There can be hard to buy real phosporic acid in some countrys for a private citizen. We have in Sweden something called kalkbort its like a thickened so you csn just use a brush and put it on the rusty part and it will cling on the surfaces for some time. Kalkbort is for clenaing off calcium in the bathroom... and be careful use protection for your eyes and hands...
Good
I got rust on my towbar but it is to hard to put back of car in that bucket
Sandblast it, and chrome or nickel plate it. Best option I'd say.
If the anode (can) touches the cathode (tool), won't that cause a short circuit and damage your charger/wires? If so, then this setup is not very safe.
It is the basic setup. Nothing can be idiot proof ;-)
@@AJRestoration It just seemed to me that the anode/cathode are a little unsteady AND that they are in very close proximity of each other.
Overall, I think that it's a nice, minimalist setup, but perhaps it would benefit from an additional tweak which would ensure that the anode/cathode don't make direct contact.
A short will not harm you but will fry the rectified in the power supply. Most chargers have fuse, but if yours does no, fit an inline fuse carrier in the dc positive lead to the tank
What happened to the other electrode.
abducted by aliens
What was the power supply?
12v PSU
@@AJRestoration as you can tell I don't know too much about this but what is psu ? and can you you 12 v battery charger or a battery trickle charger?
@@billmeade9029 Power Supply Unit for a computer. ( I looked up the acronym on Wikipedia and all of the ads also called them PSUs.)
Very cool vid!
Thanks for the visit
A much simpler method is to soak the part in Vinegar for a couple of days - works a treat.
Can't we use home power supply directly?
BIG no. That is extremely dangerous. If you can find any sort of low voltage DC power supply.
You have to laugh , only in India
@@qft4300 what does that mean by your sentence? Koi sense iss baat?
@@aniljadhav1141 Dude was just talking trash. You were asking before trying, Smart person!
Yall Take Care and be safe, John
only if you have a death wish low voltage DC only
I wonder if this would work on severe calcium build up from hard water
Vinegar dissolves calcium.
@@wesman7837 I tried that, didn't work
Um jato de areia fazia todo o trabalho em apenas 7 minutos, além de barato o resultado seria muito melhor.
Tem pais que não autoriza o uso de jato de areia pois causa pneumoconiose.
o bom e velho suco de limão galego faz maravilhas...
I would’ve taken it apart first. Then steel wool, paint, and grease after.
Wire brush and penetrating oil should have been used. Then it would work and be rust free. 🤣🤣
IKR. Is that the softest brush you had?
Question why is baking soda important?
It allows more current to flow through water
Why not use washing soda (carbonate)? Works better.
Is that can tin?
its a plain steel can, but do be aware most of these will be coated with some type of lacquer and will not conduct electricity to the water very well. Use any old scraps of steel that you don't want to keep
Excellent....vidéo intéressant.😉👍🏻
Thank you very much
Hola saludos desde Argentina, pidrias habilitar los subtitulos, mi ingles no es bueno, y los terminos son distintos, ya guardé el video muy buena la explicacion muchas gracias, tengo varias fuentes de pc, saludos, ojalá tengas mucho trabajo💪💪💪💪🤜🏻🤛🏻🇦🇷🙋🏻♂️te acabo de sumar a los canales que me gustan...!!! 🙋🏻♂️🤜🏻🤛🏻