Honda related but ive had issues with oil seapage from headgaskets on b series. Now I use an extremely thin layer of honda bond around cooling and oil ports on the head gasket. 3 years now, 50-60 autocross events and maybe 5 track days. No leaks.
I love the sound of the 2ZZ-ge engine. Had to look up your engine management on your website to see why the lift transitions were so smooth. You really have some fast hands. It is impressive how you catch the backend when it starts to go without losing all your momentum. I look forward to watching your continued adventures next spring.
@@Grg5132 Would that work out cheaper than going for K24? Considering buying a Spyder here in Australia but they desperately need an engine swap as they only came with the 1ZZ with the SMT trans here
@@richardggeorge K24 swaps never get completed on these cars because it is so expensive for so little gain. 10k min. To get a K in there in almost OEM working order. We can do 2AR swaps for like, 2k. Better NA output right off the gate
No secret here. A refurbished or rebuild transmission has a cost, but last longer over time. Keeping installing used transmission is annoying. A non reliable car that you can't trust is very annoying.😮💨
This scares me! I have a 2zz mr2 that i bought recently and i really hope it survives a few trackdays. My plan is to keep it until i can afford an elise chassis to K swap as i prefer double wishbone suspension. 2zz are cheap here in the UK but i hope it survives
I’m forgoing the K swap and going 1.8t 20valve from VW GTI. Look it up folks. A couple of guys out of the UK have a complete kit with harness, mounts and more. Stock 230hp and can easily go to 350 without opening the motor. Coupled with a 6 speed from said GTI (that can take up to 600hp, I know cause my brother has a mark 4 with 615hp on stock gearbox). Fits better is cheaper than a built 1zz or 2zz and parts are plentiful. Built 1.8t with just forged rods and stock crank with larger turbo can make 500+ hp all day long. When my turbo 1zz goes I’ll go VW with twice the HP at half the cost.
😢Hope it’s only head gasket. Better then blown engine. Stay Strong. Last year we put an other engine in my Ferio EK4, 7 rain rounds, then drying road, half faster lap then heating and connecting rod bearing makes noise😒. You know Build Drive Touge Destroy Repeat 👍😄
I have the same head gasket leak in the exact same spot but I have had no troubles with power or overheating, should be fine. Keep us updated when you pull the motor, I would like to know the cause 😮💨
I thought i had a head gasket leak in that area as well. Turned out to be the coolant temp sensor leaking and shooting coolant onto that area. It would drip about 2 times an hour cold, never really looked at it warm b/c the motor would evaporate it.
You're making me think twice about getting a 2ZZ :( I hope you READ THIS AND TRY cooper cement spray. In the US you be able to find VHT COPPER GASKET CEMENT. I didn't use VHT as it isn't available in my region. There was a post on an obscure diesel forum from a guy that was part of the drift team blacksmokeracing, for high boost he recommended using this cooper spray when using multilayer steel gasket. I've used it with a MLS gasket that I split the layers, it never got to see crazy boost but held up fine close to stock and higher CR before transmission said bye. The claims for the product are interesting even though I never got to test the difference. It's like a high temp gasket seal and it didn't hurt the engine, maybe it will fill in any imperfections to the block/head. For how cheap it is I would use it on every MLS gasket.
@@konradgeorgeson great to know I'm not a lone conspiracy theorists xD it's such an obscure product, at least around these parts. Have you removed any head gaskets with it? How did it hold up?
It's timing cover gasket I promise you. Everyone thinks it's the T/C Tensioner because it sits right at the natural 3 way joint of Head/Block/Timing Cover, and that's where they always leak.
i'd just keep sending it until the thing yeets itself again. just 2zz things. sooner or later that budget b series motor gonna pop. if you're trying to stay within a certain grip level i would pull the splitter and yeet the wing but otherwise add more rear grip or remove front grip. sway bars. blueprints are there no need to reinvent the wheel
Sorry to hear about the engine out job, I just got done doing my MRS engine on my driveway.. and it wasn't fun. I have a question regarding tyres and alignment. I've just fitted some new, wide, sticky, track/street tyres on my MRS, the rear feels really skittish! I'm gonna try sorting it with alignment toe in and decreasing tyre pressure. I guess my question is, is this normal? If anyone can offer any advice would be much appreciated?
Same problem on my reman 1zz, and i am desperatly trying to understand why this problem occur on "Opened" engines. I though it was for using non OEM head studs/gasket but aftermarket ones... Did you use OEM parts or maybe Cometic HG/ARP studs on this engine?
Have the same oil leakage on a Celica. I let it be for a few years and it is now sipping coolant as well.. never overheated the engine. Never mixed up. Prob gonna fix it soon. So what was the speculation from your side? Bad head gasket ? I usually blast the ac on during the summer while I park to cool down the engine bay, could that be the cause ?
Do you know why, what was the cause? I read that 2zz head gasket is robust and if it is sipping oil/coolant there are more problem like block crack or warpage. So did you have any problems? Did you have to do any resurfacing?
@@noahprince6411 how are they unreliable then? part of the reason why people have issues is because they arent popular, so there isnt easy to find information out there on how to set them up properly for track usage
@@arcanevoid9199the oil pumps and lift bolts eat themselves commonly. I'd consider that unreliable especially considering one of those failures can wreck the engine beyond repair.
@@nickkings2220 lift bolts are a wearable item, once you have the updated version they only need to be replaced/checked every 70,000kms or so and its a $2 part. oil pump is really not an issue, the oem gear isnt the strongest but it doesnt blow up randomly. people always blame the oil pump because its the first thing to blow up if you over rev or loose oil pressure, which again is not the oil pumps fault
Honda related but ive had issues with oil seapage from headgaskets on b series. Now I use an extremely thin layer of honda bond around cooling and oil ports on the head gasket. 3 years now, 50-60 autocross events and maybe 5 track days. No leaks.
Great driving, especially the downshifts. On point.
Car sounds mega too.
Great to see you back on track, great motivation to get back myself.
I love the sound of the 2ZZ-ge engine. Had to look up your engine management on your website to see why the lift transitions were so smooth. You really have some fast hands. It is impressive how you catch the backend when it starts to go without losing all your momentum. I look forward to watching your continued adventures next spring.
Really nice driving! Your style is very smooth, paitent and nice to watch. Looking forward to the engine tear down videos 😅
Thats a fast track! Great driving. The car sounds epic!
2AR time! 😎
How does a tuned up 2ARFE compared against a 2ZZ? Would you say the supercharger kit is a must for the 2AR?
@@konradgeorgesonyou can get to 280whp with the FXE head...
@@Grg5132 Would that work out cheaper than going for K24? Considering buying a Spyder here in Australia but they desperately need an engine swap as they only came with the 1ZZ with the SMT trans here
@@richardggeorge K24 swaps never get completed on these cars because it is so expensive for so little gain. 10k min. To get a K in there in almost OEM working order. We can do 2AR swaps for like, 2k. Better NA output right off the gate
The end was hilarious
Crying yourself to sleep at night 🤣. I really enjoy your videos 👍
I feel you on pulling the engine all the time, mines usually pulling gearbox!
No secret here. A refurbished or rebuild transmission has a cost, but last longer over time. Keeping installing used transmission is annoying. A non reliable car that you can't trust is very annoying.😮💨
im a toyota boy through and through. but k20 swapping Mr2s is taking off for a reason.
This scares me! I have a 2zz mr2 that i bought recently and i really hope it survives a few trackdays. My plan is to keep it until i can afford an elise chassis to K swap as i prefer double wishbone suspension.
2zz are cheap here in the UK but i hope it survives
I think I'll stay on ad08rs so the grip doesn't get too much, might help it last
I’m forgoing the K swap and going 1.8t 20valve from VW GTI. Look it up folks. A couple of guys out of the UK have a complete kit with harness, mounts and more. Stock 230hp and can easily go to 350 without opening the motor. Coupled with a 6 speed from said GTI (that can take up to 600hp, I know cause my brother has a mark 4 with 615hp on stock gearbox). Fits better is cheaper than a built 1zz or 2zz and parts are plentiful. Built 1.8t with just forged rods and stock crank with larger turbo can make 500+ hp all day long. When my turbo 1zz goes I’ll go VW with twice the HP at half the cost.
😢Hope it’s only head gasket. Better then blown engine. Stay Strong. Last year we put an other engine in my Ferio EK4, 7 rain rounds, then drying road, half faster lap then heating and connecting rod bearing makes noise😒.
You know
Build
Drive
Touge
Destroy
Repeat
👍😄
I have the same head gasket leak in the exact same spot but I have had no troubles with power or overheating, should be fine. Keep us updated when you pull the motor, I would like to know the cause 😮💨
Same here. Done 3 track days with it weaping a little and no issues so far. I do check oil every session just in case.
Causes are at the very end of the video : broken lifts bolts + broken water pump + headgasket.
I thought i had a head gasket leak in that area as well. Turned out to be the coolant temp sensor leaking and shooting coolant onto that area. It would drip about 2 times an hour cold, never really looked at it warm b/c the motor would evaporate it.
3:48 its a better setting if you have the skills to handle it
"Not gonna push it too hard"
proceeds to demolishing every other driver on the entire track Lol.
You're making me think twice about getting a 2ZZ :( I hope you READ THIS AND TRY cooper cement spray. In the US you be able to find VHT COPPER GASKET CEMENT. I didn't use VHT as it isn't available in my region.
There was a post on an obscure diesel forum from a guy that was part of the drift team blacksmokeracing, for high boost he recommended using this cooper spray when using multilayer steel gasket. I've used it with a MLS gasket that I split the layers, it never got to see crazy boost but held up fine close to stock and higher CR before transmission said bye.
The claims for the product are interesting even though I never got to test the difference. It's like a high temp gasket seal and it didn't hurt the engine, maybe it will fill in any imperfections to the block/head. For how cheap it is I would use it on every MLS gasket.
I can attest to this. Copper gasket spray is great, I use it on everything.
@@konradgeorgeson great to know I'm not a lone conspiracy theorists xD it's such an obscure product, at least around these parts. Have you removed any head gaskets with it? How did it hold up?
Sweet track day! Can’t to one day swap a 2ZZ into my MRS. Makes the car much more alive
I feel you. Have to pull my 2zz gearbox the third time in 3 months..
I've also had the small head gasket weep, but it's been fine and not got worse
I'm on team managing oil leaks as well. Mine looks to be the chain tensioner, my Autocross season is done, hopefully that fixes it.
It's timing cover gasket I promise you. Everyone thinks it's the T/C Tensioner because it sits right at the natural 3 way joint of Head/Block/Timing Cover, and that's where they always leak.
@@ryanbrown918 your probably right
i'd just keep sending it until the thing yeets itself again. just 2zz things. sooner or later that budget b series motor gonna pop.
if you're trying to stay within a certain grip level i would pull the splitter and yeet the wing but otherwise add more rear grip or remove front grip. sway bars. blueprints are there no need to reinvent the wheel
Nice driving dude! The aero is a mystery. I don’t know why it would be the car feel less balanced 😅
The seeping head gasket sucks too! 😢
Didnt know Jeffrey Dahmer had an Asian brother who was also captivated by the Touge.....
Car sounds great!
The new POV looking good
6:39 😱
I enjoy POV videos as much as the next dude, but actually prefer the technical JOI (Just 2zz Operational Information) videos.
Sounds so good. Dumb question but did you stiffen front dampers? Maybe needs more spring front/less rear?
No change. I did turn up rear (rebound) which helped a bit.
Sorry to hear about the engine out job, I just got done doing my MRS engine on my driveway.. and it wasn't fun.
I have a question regarding tyres and alignment.
I've just fitted some new, wide, sticky, track/street tyres on my MRS, the rear feels really skittish!
I'm gonna try sorting it with alignment toe in and decreasing tyre pressure.
I guess my question is, is this normal? If anyone can offer any advice would be much appreciated?
Same problem on my reman 1zz, and i am desperatly trying to understand why this problem occur on "Opened" engines. I though it was for using non OEM head studs/gasket but aftermarket ones...
Did you use OEM parts or maybe Cometic HG/ARP studs on this engine?
how are the leakdown numbers? I really enjoy the vids, been looking to see an update video
K20a k24 k20a2 k20z
is the new splitter pushing down too much on the front and lifting the rear up?
Have the same oil leakage on a Celica. I let it be for a few years and it is now sipping coolant as well.. never overheated the engine. Never mixed up. Prob gonna fix it soon. So what was the speculation from your side? Bad head gasket ? I usually blast the ac on during the summer while I park to cool down the engine bay, could that be the cause ?
It's a headgasket.
Do you know why, what was the cause? I read that 2zz head gasket is robust and if it is sipping oil/coolant there are more problem like block crack or warpage. So did you have any problems? Did you have to do any resurfacing?
Its old motor that isn't very reliable for track use
F, I’ll see you at Tsukuba
What helmet mount are you using?
Your luck sounds like mine lol. You still have s2000 or that's long gone?
time to change to a 2GR or K24, needed a more reliable one; maybe wider tyre sizes than taking off the splitter, always right to have more downforce
just go for a jdm honda k20a
206 is when the thermostat opens. Not hot at all.
2zz never had my attention due to unreliability
its not unreliable
@@arcanevoid9199yes they are, this is because you dont see they popular instead of hondas
@@noahprince6411 how are they unreliable then? part of the reason why people have issues is because they arent popular, so there isnt easy to find information out there on how to set them up properly for track usage
@@arcanevoid9199the oil pumps and lift bolts eat themselves commonly. I'd consider that unreliable especially considering one of those failures can wreck the engine beyond repair.
@@nickkings2220 lift bolts are a wearable item, once you have the updated version they only need to be replaced/checked every 70,000kms or so and its a $2 part. oil pump is really not an issue, the oem gear isnt the strongest but it doesnt blow up randomly. people always blame the oil pump because its the first thing to blow up if you over rev or loose oil pressure, which again is not the oil pumps fault
Hey asian man how u doinnnn
hm hp is this? 180 190?
speed cocking
What track is this?
oof.mp4
Any issues collecting telemetry when mounting the solo2 to the steering wheel?
I have only used the timer function. I put it there so I can see and reach it while strapped in harness. I am not sure on the telemetry