@@themotoroilgeek I'd like to see an in depth breakdown of Shell Rotella T6 5W40. I'm really curious as to if it's a GTL oil like a lot of high end Shell products. I run it in my motorcycle, as it's rated JASO MA for wet clutches
Yes please to an oil life indicator video. I've tried to convince my dad a 10,000 mile oil change interval on his Ecoboost F-150 is bad, so a third party explainer would be much appreciated.
@@2seep No, he's going to say, "I do care. That's why I follow the recommendations meticulously." It's probably better in his case to just make sure he uses products engineered for the highest mileage interval. Oil and filter. My oil change interval is the minimum. I use the cheapest and it works out fine.
I mean you could start by saying first of all that's under perfect conditions in reality probably the majority of people drive the severe service schedule The second knock would be he has an engine that is hard on motor oil turbos are hard on oil they get hot obviously somebody could put it more eloquently than that but those two things ought to be able to at least make him think about it if it doesn't then he's really not interested in the facts and just wants to argue
@@themotoroilgeek What about out oil change on a diesel? And yes on oil life indicators. The one on my wife's infinity is set at 6500 it was set at 10,000. Can't change the one on my truck, other than resetting it.
My 2001 Chevy Impala has twenty thousand miles on it. Before I left for a two year trip in Europe I filled the gas tank up added a fuel preservative then changed the oil with Castrol edge professional 10w30 synthetic oil then took each spark plugs out and sprayed a fogging oil in each cylinder then kept a automatic trickle charger to the battery . Then I jacked up the car to keep pressure on tires to a minimum. When I returned home the car started as if has been always driven. Great Video!
The old detroit diesel 2 stroke service manuals have tons of great tips on how to pickle an engine. One that stood out to me was placing wax paper between the v belts and backing tension off. They definitely had good stuff in there especially if it was going to be stored for years.
@@PassionForGrammar @PassionForGrammar Then meditate on it. I and the people I have hung with all my life are quick wits who understand cynical and cryptic humor. I'll admit my remark was a little off topic though.
Agree on all points. While oils have acid neutralizers as part of the add pack, there is no sense in not having fresh oil in there for the winter nap. Fill the tank as full as possible. I use Techron Marine for an add. Supposedly good for 2 years at that point, but certainly good enough for a 4 or 5 month winter layover. Also, a battery smart charger, to keep the battery happy, and all other maintainence done. Wash, wax, park, leave it be until that first good day for a trip to the local joint for a burger and a root beer. If the oil geek says it, you can rest assured it's good advice.
Excellent content, while watching the beginning I thought, what about the fuel tank and boom you guys addressed it. Count me in among those who want to learn how an oil monitoring/maintenance minder system works 👍🏽
@@themotoroilgeekYES SIR ! WE DEFINITELY NEED TO KNOW, HOW THESE CARS/PICK-UPS , IFOMESSAGE OIL PERCENTAGE , ARE THEY RELIABLE. ? OR NOT ! THANKS AGAIN !!!
Agree & (respectfully) Disagree: 100% agree on your gas storage recommendations & fall oil changes. Disagree (partially) on leaving car alone. 100% agree running it for a few minutes (or less) is bad & exactly for the reasons you stated. My belief is if your going to start it, let it warm up completely, 20 minutes minimum or better yet take it for a drive to warm everything up, weather permitting. Another reason to not leave it alone is old cars with brake wheel cylinders tend to go bad if the brakes aren’t pushed a few times ideally do it monthly while in storage. I’ve seen a lot of guys wheel cylinders fail over winter when not “exercised”. Great videos & very informative!!
One of most important pieces of information I learned recently is that most modern Fords (and possibly other brands) have a "flood mode" that will allow the engine to crank without starting, great for reducing engine wear after long-term storage and after an oil change.
I’ve had good results with vehicle storage prepping by giving them an oil and filter change right after the last significant driving session. I also do the coolant changes and brake fluid replacement just prior to a storage period if that is reaching it’s determined lifecycle. The drive just prior to storage also includes a top off of premium fuel that contains little to no ethanol. Some research is needed to find out what brand of fuel is non ethanol in your area at any given time of the year. I also have a set of wheels and tires that are used exclusively for storage. Once I have completed the storage preparation, I take the car for a ten mile drive and then drive it back to the storage space and put it directly into the spot it will be, shut it down and then disconnect the battery and cover it. I do not touch it again until the next driving season. In Michigan that’s roughly six and a half months.
Yes i used to start my vehicles and motorcycles while in storage years ago with the exception i did it once a month and would leave them run till they got up to operating temperature and run them at two thousand rpm for a bit i did this basically for the fuel system to avoid stale fuel settling i never used any type of fuel stabilizer either never had a problem but hey everybody's different. Great video
For winter storage, you also want to wash and wax or coat your car. Then drive it to get more water and soap from the wash evaporated. Don't cover it unless you create a lot of dust in your garage. Overinflate your tires somewhat to reduce flat spotting and put a good battery maintainer on your battery. If it gets extremely cold in your garage, remove the battery and store it at a reasonable temperature. Replace the engine and cabin air filters while you're at it, and clean the interior glass. You will be ready to go in the spring with minimal effort.
Good post, but I disagree about the battery. Lead acid batteries store much better in cold. In fact even better below freezing(!) due to much lower self discharge. However, it's super important that there is no vampire drains. A digital clock or alarm in a car is enough to drain it in a few months. But if you disconnect the battery, make sure it's clean, charge it full and leave it somewhere cold, like in fridge temp, you can leave it alone for almost 2 full years and maintain over 75-80% SOC. In 25C the same battery can sit for only 6-9 months without needing charge.
Wow, you guys are standing next to a M-Benz 300 SEL 6.3 M100 beast. I used to service them when they were new when I was a young Star Technician. Great years of my life. Our oil then at the dealership was Mobil 15w40 conventional oil . The oil change intervals back in the late 60's, early 70's was 3,000 miles. Love your channel 👍👍
This is great advice for RV owners who store their rigs over the winter. This contradicts a lot of conventional wisdom in the RV community (especially for RV generators, many of which still have carburetors). Thanks!
I am so glad I was pointed your way, Lake. So much great info as I learn, and as a numbers/science guy I know I can trust your results and advice. I wasn't going to do anything before parking the Z06 for the winter, but I just scheduled an oil change and will be filling the tank and adding Stabil.
Absolutely I want to know how oil life monitors work!! There's big discussions about this on my vehicle's forums. I'm also interested in knowing if the motor oil (and all driveline fluids) that are put into a vehicle on the assembly line or during assembly, are the same as the manufacture's branded oil we buy off the shelf.
Great stuff as always Lake! I’ve been telling people for years, about leaving your fuel tank completely full, or completely drained. Yes definitely interested about the Oil Life Indicators. 👍
Yes please on the indicators function. Thanks for covering the when to change the oil question! I do Stire my Camry over the winter and put new synthetic oil (usually pennzoil platinum). I don’t change the oil when I put it on the road in the summer. I only start it now about once or twice per winter when it’s warm out and I drive it out of the garage and a very short distance, and I let it idle quite a while until it’s fully warmed up. I do like to get my tires sitting on a different spot and to use the brakes a bit. I do fill the tank and use stor n go. I also run the AC.
In Australia, we don’t have many cars with ‘oil life indicators’ we don’t have any jiffy lubes or the like and most people just stick to service intervals (if you’re lucky) there seems to be a huge culture difference in Australia and the US regarding oil changes.
Yes definitely on an examination of the oil life minders. I have noted in my GM direct injection engine it will range anywhere from 9,000 mile down to just 3,000 mile in the winter and am curious just what parameters it is looking at to make these “guesses. Thank you for your great content.
Yes to the oil life indicator! Very curious on how accurate they are?! Even tho my fiance is adamant about 3k mile changes. Thank you Lake for what you do!
My Grandfather died in 1994...his 84 Delta 88 5.7 diesel sat for 23 years in his garage with out being started.We put 2 batteries in it and it fired right up, but the belts busted.. I still drive it some to this day...some vehicles definitely can be stored much better than others...
Yes on the oil life monitor. My 2021 Honda Accord has a variable monitor. 3,000 miles of city driving was at 50% oil life while 3,000 miles of all highway was 70% oil life.
This all makes sense and I have been practicing it, not just on vehicles, but all my small engine equipment as well. Fresh oil, fresh gas, full tank with gas treatment.
Yes to oil life monitors! Ive worked for Domestic and Import brands that either DO or DON'T have them and the algorithms that control life fascinate me.
definitely curious about the actual workings & data determining of the oil life readings.... I've heard that some simply measure the difference between oil restriction before the filter & after & calculates restriction (older chevys)..... others claim vehicles like the Ram use a more sophisticated set of readings that actually change oil life as driving conditions, speed, load, temperatures change, stop n go vs highway miles.... I myself DO notice it change depending on my weekly travels... if I'm loaded heavy most of the week doing around town it'll change faster than if i put 600 miles of highway loaded just as heavy.
Always remember, "where air goes, water goes". Powersports like ATV, motorcycles and Jet Skis usually have a petcock to shut off fuel. Most owners, run the carbs dry and that is a no no. You want to keep the air and moisture out of the carbs and keep the seats and o-rings wet. Your advice to fill the tank is correct, but you do need to leave a small air gap for expansion especially if you use a heated storage area. The fuel will expand and push gas through the carbs into the engine. Turn the petcock to off if you have one. Don't forget to run the engine after fuel treatment. Many people forget to do this leaving the fuel and components in the system after the tank remain unprotected. You did not mention fogging oils. I like to fog 2 stroke engines through the induction system to coat the crank and lower bearings in addition to the cylinder walls. On 4 strokes, I spray fogging oil through the spark plug holes and spin the motor to distribute. You are correct, never start a motor in storage, but I do recommend spinning the motor over to keep the cylinder walls and rings coated. Great video, keep up the good work.
My 2005 6.0l Powerstroke has been parked for 11 months without being started. It has Amsoil in it, not that it matters at this point. I do need to resurrect it and do an easy drive to get it warmed up and get the oil dumped, I do have a test kit for a competitor because I didn't know about you Mr.Lake Speed jr. But I do now and will use you in the future. And I live in Az. In an area that actually gets 4 seasons. I'm a religious user of fuel additive and preach it to my son to use in his 6.7 Cummins.
yes on oil life indicator.........my question is starting a engine after sitting for six months to a year. What is your advice? Thanks....i really like your videos......very educational
I often see friends and neighbors storing their car the wrong way for winter. Especially bad is when they start the engine every 2 or 3 weeks, letting it idle for 10 minutes with the garage door open, and then shutting it down. All the unburned fuel gets into the oil and dilutes it. Thanks for the video, Lake!
Agree on changing oil before storage. But I would also add that you should disconnect the battery to eliminate parasitic drain (i installed a hand-turn disconnect device) and REMOVE the electrical fuse to the engine fuel pump. Then before taking the vehicle out of storage, verify battery health with a volt meter, reconnect the battery, and crank the engine for about 45 seconds BEFORE replacing the fuel pump fuse. This gets oil to the crankshaft, cylinder walls, cams etc BEFORE starting the engine. Have been doing this for 25 years with our RV, against "common wisdom" to start engine once a month. Our 1997 V10 engine has 85K miles with just routine maintenance (oil & filter changes every 3-5K miles) and burns no oil.
Please also include Diesel engines in advice as I’m assuming it’s the same tips, but it would be good to clarify instead of guessing. Like, is diesel fuel “life” in a full tank the same as Gas (petrol)?
As a generator Tech who works on a lot of propane powered units,they're always making milkshakes in the winter. Standard procedure for probably the last 50 years is to do a test run once a week for 15-30 minutes for many reasons. In the past couple of years ,the industry has changed slightly for these home air cooled units. They test run once a week ,but only run for like 20-30 seconds and shut off. Long enough to make sure it works and that's it. For my summer cars , it's better off leaving it dormant all winter instead of starting it occasionally. Besides,I go thru a prelube ritual in the spring for startup.
I knew all that back in 1975 when I stored my vehicles, long before you guys got together. In about 50 years of vehicle ownership I have never done a UOA and have never had an oil related failure with one engine even producing 190 HP per liter.
*_I learned allot from watchin this video & will start doing this for the winter? Now im curious… Does this also apply for storing a vehicle during the summer?? I would love a video on storing a vehicle away for the summer since it is getting hotter!_*
I would like to see your opinion on oil life indicator, but even more I would like your opinion on boutique oils (Redline, Amsoil, Ravenol and others).
I agree! There is tons of info on how OLMs work available with a quick Google search, although I'm sure Lake still has a lot of great info to contribute. But getting the opinions of an actual engineer who has data and experience to back up his opinions and claims on something like boutique oils is extremely rare since the actual experts usually aren't the ones making these videos and arguing on BITOG and other forums!
I winterize boats for storage in the Northeast. In ideal circumstances I flush by running with fresh water until the engine is WARM and pull the drain plugs while flushing. Then change oil and filters and run on fresh water to circulate and warm the oil. Drain and fill with non toxic antifreeze and fog the Carburetor or air intake while adding the last of the antifreeze. Also try to get some fogging oil inside the carburetor vents while fogging. I look for plenty of fogging smoke out the exhaust. Once had somebody call the fire department when smoke poured out of the small storage garage. Got out just before the FD arrived! I add fuel treatment at the beginning but don't have much control over fuel tank volume. Gasoline does not deteriorate noticeably over a few months winter storage. Summer heat ages gas. Worst case scenario is leaving gasoline in a snow blower through spring, summer, fall and expect it to start at first snow. In spring start up I gingerly crank the engine a few revolutions to check for hydrostatic lock. Haven't had to deal with a stuck open valve in decades. They usually start up and run like I shut them off yesterday. Burn off the fogging oil on the run from launching to docking. Always looking for the perfect fogging oil, I've had good results with CRC Engine Stor fogging oil. GOT A PERFECT FOGGING OIL?
Empty or part empty tanks also take in air as temperature cycles. This can cause significant condensation on light aircraft. Amazing how much water that collects in the water drains.
After 40+ years in the aftermarket & dealers as a tech, I changed jobs the landed me with Delco. We had two meetings per year and spoke with the two guys who wrote software for GM vehicles equipped with this. They took the same approach with one engine, samples, 3rd party testing, compression, fuel mapping at 2,400 RPM, and dozens more until they logged 2,000 hrs. This equates to just at 2K of run time. They admitted to being very conservative display numbers which include low temp, 8 minute drive cycles near the end of the testing. A gallon of straight ethanol will hold 7 tablespoons of water but amount several but reduces the molecular size to pass thru injectors. I disconnect the vehicles battery, clean and apply dielectric grease. 7-8 in-lbs is proper torque I believe. I have volt meters, trickle chargers and a conductance tester. I test once a month roughly. Extended mix on a full tank is best, but not over full. Nitrogen in tires helps keep rim to bead corrosion way down. Retired.
I have never seen a video like this before. However, I have been doing exactly what you recommended for years. My question is if for some reason you do have to move a vehicle that say you are driving on a regular basis but not using it that day or perhaps several days, can that moisture that is introduced to that shortengine run be burned out at later time by driving the vehicle well enough to completely bring the engine up to temperature for a extended period of time? Great video, and thanks for posting it.
Hello and thank you for the knowledge shared on this video and other ones. I have a couple of thoughts that I would like to share and, to get your feedback as well on the 3rd. item : 1.- I agree with this video on the draining of the old oil and its replenishment with a new one before Engine Storage for reasons associated with oil degradation due its contamination associated to Oxidation, Humidity, Reactivity, etc. etc. What I disagree with is the notion that once the oil has been replenished, one should avoid running the engine because of the potential for additional wear of its internal components. Let's remember that we are replacing the old oil for a new one because of oil degradation which has already coated the entire engine. Therefore, it is NOT a bad approach to run the engine with the new oil to allow it to coat all the internal components with an oil that has all of its properties brand new for higher protection of its internal components. 2.- The second thought is associated with anti-corrosive agents added to the Engine oil prior to its storage. This is known as "Engine Preservation" and it is used extensively on aircraft Turbine Engines that will be seating for months or years waiting to be leased. This procedure is very precise and not only protects the Turbine Engine's AGB - Accessory Gear Box, but its Bearings and, the HMU - Hydro-Mechanical Unit that Meters the Fuel, by providing a coating of the entire Lube Oil System and Fuel Metering unit with anti-corrosive agents. This approach is coupled with the placement of Desiccant bags and humidity detectors followed by wrapping and sealing of the entire engine with a high density plastic sheet to reduce the potential of Oxidation as a result of Air Humidity. I understand that this is NOT a practical approach to reciprocating engines installed on vehicles but it gives us an idea as to how things get done on much more pricier engines. 3.- To enhance this video I would like to suggest the introduction of Dedicated Corrosion Protection Additives along with its associated Testing not only for Vehicle engines but for " Standby Portable Power Generators" for personal use, that remain off for months until needed and remain exposed to the humidity and its detrimental effect on the engine internal components. The Engine User's Manual talks a bit about its storage, but the subject is very interesting and worth of additional input from your team. Keep up the good work & looking FWD to hearing from you. Sincerely, Roberto V. Herreria, BSME, A&P. Broward College PP - II Instructor rherreri@broward.edu
The whole time I keep hearing stuff but keep eye balling what appears to be a VW SYNCHRO in the background???? Freaking SWEET!! oh yeah back to the oil stuff haha
Engine oil sensors? They have level sensors but no sensor to check oil quality. It is a sophisticated program that monitors driving stye and conditions. Based on operating conditions the program will determine when the oil is in need of a change assuming the customer is using the specified oil.
I own a 2005 GTO with a manual transmission that I purchased new, it has 44k miles on it. It's a pleasure cruiser that gets about 2k miles a year put on it. It's stored in a garage on a battery tender most of the time. I change the oil and filter once a year regardless of the mileage, I also submit an oil sample for analysis once a year to keep an eye on the engine's condition. I always use Mobil 1 5w/30 and a Wix filter. I start the car once a week for 10 minutes, I feel these steps are keeping my car at its best.
it depends also by the storage place / climate. if humidity and temp. variations are present the moisture can condesate inside the cylinder wall and potentially rust over time.
we had a car for our kids to use and they just drove to work couple minute drive few days a week and i looked and the oil cap had white foam from moisture buildup in the oil from all the short trips and never getting warmed up, so we changed oil and made sure to drive it further once in a while never saw problem again.
These are SOP for marine boat engines and what I typically do on my classic cars and motorcycles. However, you skipped fogging the engine which is SOP on Marine engines 2 or four cycle. Easy on carburetors but difficult for fuel injected engines. I remove plugs and spray a fogging oil into the cylinders and crank engine over with fuel delivery off and ignition disconnected. My 2 cents.
YES, for OLM video! Specifically the rumor that GM had to reprogram theirs due to it being too lenient, & causing engine failure during warranty. There definitely is a difference between my 2008 Buick & my 2020 Express!
Great video! I Would love a video on modern car oil life indicators, also would you make a video explaining why you don’t like additional additives in oil such as MOA or Liqui moly? And what are your thoughts on their engine flushes as well?
All good recommendations. I do actually recommend you start cars that are chain driven and have plastic chain guides. They stay supple by design by being in contact with oil. So they can become prematurely aged by not being in contact with oil once they have been heat cycled many times in the engine. So I personally recommend starting the engine once every 3 months if its being stored for longer that this. This recommendation come for European and Japanese cars. We don't really have any customers with American car (maybe the odd Corvette). But as said you shouldn't be starting it every week.
Ive watched all your videos your a sharp man on oil. I agree with all your content Ive seen. I want a video on Mobile one 0w30. Because its one of the few oils that I can purchase that meets all the specs on my 24 Hyundai Santa Cruz turbo. I will be letting your company do a oil analysis at 4000 miles. Thanks for all the info you do.
I also plug the exhaust and the air intake holes so no more oxigen goes in. Full tank with additives circulated, new oil circulated too, I raise it on stands to protect the tires. Then follow the pre spring start checklist. I have a convertible BMW 2001.
I had to replace oil pump (blowoff valve) in e46 m3 after 3 years of storge starting every other month. I was advised to start periodically to keep seals from drying out, however moisture in oil corroded blowoff valve. If your start it, drive it to operating temp.
I'd like the oil life indicator coverage, having a hard time believing it. Great suggestions on storage, it's what I've been doing for a long time in WI. 1 classic car and 2 Harleys
Here’s the link to the video on Oil Life Indicators. The Accuracy of OIL LIFE Indicators REVEALED!
th-cam.com/video/t4e0oDBseqo/w-d-xo.html
YES on oil life indicators
Absolutely. Even though I ignore mine and change based on miles. Oil analysis verifies my change interval is appropriate.
Yes. Indicator video, please!
Noted!
Yes on oil life indicator
If I used that, I'd be changing oil and filter once a month.
Yes please on how oil life indicators work. Really interested as I'm having endless discussions with my father regarding his Civic 10th gen!
Noted!
I see that debate on forums all the time " Change your oil no longer then 6000" " No I trust my computer to tell me to change it"
@@themotoroilgeek I'd like to see an in depth breakdown of Shell Rotella T6 5W40. I'm really curious as to if it's a GTL oil like a lot of high end Shell products. I run it in my motorcycle, as it's rated JASO MA for wet clutches
th-cam.com/video/D7hvTWsLIP8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=1uq8oZpYWU12RnL3
Yes please to an oil life indicator video.
I've tried to convince my dad a 10,000 mile oil change interval on his Ecoboost F-150 is bad, so a third party explainer would be much appreciated.
Noted!
Tell your dad that it seems like he doesn’t care about his truck. Use psychology. Sometimes it’s the only way to convince people
@@2seep No, he's going to say, "I do care. That's why I follow the recommendations meticulously." It's probably better in his case to just make sure he uses products engineered for the highest mileage interval. Oil and filter. My oil change interval is the minimum. I use the cheapest and it works out fine.
I mean you could start by saying first of all that's under perfect conditions in reality probably the majority of people drive the severe service schedule The second knock would be he has an engine that is hard on motor oil turbos are hard on oil they get hot obviously somebody could put it more eloquently than that but those two things ought to be able to at least make him think about it if it doesn't then he's really not interested in the facts and just wants to argue
@@themotoroilgeek What about out oil change on a diesel? And yes on oil life indicators. The one on my wife's infinity is set at 6500 it was set at 10,000. Can't change the one on my truck, other than resetting it.
My 2001 Chevy Impala has twenty thousand miles on it. Before I left for a two year trip in Europe I filled the gas tank up added a fuel preservative then changed the oil with Castrol edge professional 10w30 synthetic oil then took each spark plugs out and sprayed a fogging oil in each cylinder then kept a automatic trickle charger to the battery . Then I jacked up the car to keep pressure on tires to a minimum. When I returned home the car started as if has been always driven. Great Video!
Great. You got to see Europe while it was still there.
The old detroit diesel 2 stroke service manuals have tons of great tips on how to pickle an engine.
One that stood out to me was placing wax paper between the v belts and backing tension off.
They definitely had good stuff in there especially if it was going to be stored for years.
Thanks for sharing!
@@anonymike8280 He got to see Europe while it was still there?
I don't understand what is meant by this.
@@PassionForGrammar @PassionForGrammar Then meditate on it. I and the people I have hung with all my life are quick wits who understand cynical and cryptic humor.
I'll admit my remark was a little off topic though.
Agree on all points. While oils have acid neutralizers as part of the add pack, there is no sense in not having fresh oil in there for the winter nap.
Fill the tank as full as possible. I use Techron Marine for an add. Supposedly good for 2 years at that point, but certainly good enough for a 4 or 5 month winter layover. Also, a battery smart charger, to keep the battery happy, and all other maintainence done. Wash, wax, park, leave it be until that first good day for a trip to the local joint for a burger and a root beer.
If the oil geek says it, you can rest assured it's good advice.
Great call on the Techron Marine!
Excellent content, while watching the beginning I thought, what about the fuel tank and boom you guys addressed it. Count me in among those who want to learn how an oil monitoring/maintenance minder system works 👍🏽
Noted!
th-cam.com/video/t4e0oDBseqo/w-d-xo.html
Definite YES on oil life indicators!
Noted!
th-cam.com/video/t4e0oDBseqo/w-d-xo.html
I would like to see how oil life indicator work
Noted!
Simple. Pull the dipstick, look, inspect, smell. You can tell a LOT with your nose and eyes.
@@themotoroilgeekYES SIR ! WE DEFINITELY NEED TO KNOW, HOW THESE CARS/PICK-UPS , IFOMESSAGE OIL PERCENTAGE , ARE THEY RELIABLE. ? OR NOT ! THANKS AGAIN !!!
th-cam.com/video/t4e0oDBseqo/w-d-xo.html
Yes, how do the oil change indicators actually work .
Noted!
th-cam.com/video/D7hvTWsLIP8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=1uq8oZpYWU12RnL3
@@themotoroilgeek Thank you!
Agree & (respectfully) Disagree: 100% agree on your gas storage recommendations & fall oil changes. Disagree (partially) on leaving car alone. 100% agree running it for a few minutes (or less) is bad & exactly for the reasons you stated. My belief is if your going to start it, let it warm up completely, 20 minutes minimum or better yet take it for a drive to warm everything up, weather permitting. Another reason to not leave it alone is old cars with brake wheel cylinders tend to go bad if the brakes aren’t pushed a few times ideally do it monthly while in storage. I’ve seen a lot of guys wheel cylinders fail over winter when not “exercised”. Great videos & very informative!!
Thanks for sharing!
One of most important pieces of information I learned recently is that most modern Fords (and possibly other brands) have a "flood mode" that will allow the engine to crank without starting, great for reducing engine wear after long-term storage and after an oil change.
All fuel injected engines I've tested have flood mode, it's standard as far as I know.
Just pull the fuel pump fuse/relay and crank the engine over for like 5 seconds.
@@rolandotillit2867 Some people use flood mode daily on their fords due to excessive rod bearing knock.
The Corvette has flood mode which prevents the car from firing
@@richarddobreny6664 Are you sure it stops spark? Usually fuel injectors are not fired (thus the term "flood mode").
I’ve had good results with vehicle storage prepping by giving them an oil and filter change right after the last significant driving session. I also do the coolant changes and brake fluid replacement just prior to a storage period if that is reaching it’s determined lifecycle. The drive just prior to storage also includes a top off of premium fuel that contains little to no ethanol. Some research is needed to find out what brand of fuel is non ethanol in your area at any given time of the year.
I also have a set of wheels and tires that are used exclusively for storage. Once I have completed the storage preparation, I take the car for a ten mile drive and then drive it back to the storage space and put it directly into the spot it will be, shut it down and then disconnect the battery and cover it. I do not touch it again until the next driving season. In Michigan that’s roughly six and a half months.
Yes i used to start my vehicles and motorcycles while in storage years ago with the exception i did it once a month and would leave them run till they got up to operating temperature and run them at two thousand rpm for a bit i did this basically for the fuel system to avoid stale fuel settling i never used any type of fuel stabilizer either never had a problem but hey everybody's different. Great video
Yes, interested in how the oil life indicators work on Hondas. Thank you for your videos. I am learning a lot about oil.
Noted!
@@themotoroilgeektwo-cycle engine's do not apply
th-cam.com/video/t4e0oDBseqo/w-d-xo.html
For winter storage, you also want to wash and wax or coat your car. Then drive it to get more water and soap from the wash evaporated. Don't cover it unless you create a lot of dust in your garage. Overinflate your tires somewhat to reduce flat spotting and put a good battery maintainer on your battery. If it gets extremely cold in your garage, remove the battery and store it at a reasonable temperature. Replace the engine and cabin air filters while you're at it, and clean the interior glass. You will be ready to go in the spring with minimal effort.
Good post, but I disagree about the battery. Lead acid batteries store much better in cold. In fact even better below freezing(!) due to much lower self discharge. However, it's super important that there is no vampire drains. A digital clock or alarm in a car is enough to drain it in a few months. But if you disconnect the battery, make sure it's clean, charge it full and leave it somewhere cold, like in fridge temp, you can leave it alone for almost 2 full years and maintain over 75-80% SOC. In 25C the same battery can sit for only 6-9 months without needing charge.
Why not just use blanket to protect the car against the dust?
Wow, you guys are standing next to a M-Benz 300 SEL 6.3 M100 beast.
I used to service them when they were new when I was a young Star Technician. Great years of my life. Our oil then at the dealership was Mobil 15w40 conventional oil .
The oil change intervals back in the late 60's, early 70's was 3,000 miles.
Love your channel 👍👍
Thanks!
This is great advice for RV owners who store their rigs over the winter. This contradicts a lot of conventional wisdom in the RV community (especially for RV generators, many of which still have carburetors). Thanks!
Absolutely yes on oil indicators !
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Love your content! So many myths about oil, it's refreshing to get answers with actual data and science behind it.
Thanks!
I am so glad I was pointed your way, Lake. So much great info as I learn, and as a numbers/science guy I know I can trust your results and advice. I wasn't going to do anything before parking the Z06 for the winter, but I just scheduled an oil change and will be filling the tank and adding Stabil.
Wow, thank you!
Good info. This is exactly what boat owners go through for winter storage. Same rules apply.
Please make a video on oil life monitors please!!!
Noted!
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Absolutely I want to know how oil life monitors work!! There's big discussions about this on my vehicle's forums.
I'm also interested in knowing if the motor oil (and all driveline fluids) that are put into a vehicle on the assembly line or during assembly, are the same as the manufacture's branded oil we buy off the shelf.
Noted!
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Great Channel! Yes on Oil Life Indicator. Also during storage don't forget Battery Tender!
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Great stuff as always Lake!
I’ve been telling people for years, about leaving your fuel tank completely full, or completely drained.
Yes definitely interested about the Oil Life Indicators. 👍
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Yes please on the indicators function.
Thanks for covering the when to change the oil question! I do Stire my Camry over the winter and put new synthetic oil (usually pennzoil platinum). I don’t change the oil when I put it on the road in the summer.
I only start it now about once or twice per winter when it’s warm out and I drive it out of the garage and a very short distance, and I let it idle quite a while until it’s fully warmed up. I do like to get my tires sitting on a different spot and to use the brakes a bit.
I do fill the tank and use stor n go. I also run the AC.
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In Australia, we don’t have many cars with ‘oil life indicators’ we don’t have any jiffy lubes or the like and most people just stick to service intervals (if you’re lucky) there seems to be a huge culture difference in Australia and the US regarding oil changes.
Yes definitely on an examination of the oil life minders. I have noted in my GM direct injection engine it will range anywhere from 9,000 mile down to just 3,000 mile in the winter and am curious just what parameters it is looking at to make these “guesses. Thank you for your great content.
Thanks for sharing! That’s going to be part of it.
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Thanks again for helping us understand debatable topics better. Please keep the facts coming Lake!
Thank you!
Yes to the oil life indicators. I'm pretty sure that it's just an equation based on milage, time, and engine load. I'd love to see your take though.
Noted!
Delve some on its algorithms, like GM's and why it's limites to 7.5k miles, since 2016.
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A big yes for oil life indicator
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Yes to the oil life indicator! Very curious on how accurate they are?! Even tho my fiance is adamant about 3k mile changes. Thank you Lake for what you do!
Thanks! Your vote is noted.
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My Grandfather died in 1994...his 84 Delta 88 5.7 diesel sat for 23 years in his garage with out being started.We put 2 batteries in it and it fired right up, but the belts busted.. I still drive it some to this day...some vehicles definitely can be stored much better than others...
Yes on the oil life indicators
Noted!
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Yes on the oil life monitor. My 2021 Honda Accord has a variable monitor. 3,000 miles of city driving was at 50% oil life while 3,000 miles of all highway was 70% oil life.
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Yes I'm always interested to know how things work I would love to know how the oil life indicator works on a modern car
Noted!
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This all makes sense and I have been practicing it, not just on vehicles, but all my small engine equipment as well. Fresh oil, fresh gas, full tank with gas treatment.
Also a yes on the oil life monitor
Noted!
Yes to oil life monitors! Ive worked for Domestic and Import brands that either DO or DON'T have them and the algorithms that control life fascinate me.
Noted!
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I have always wondered what these systems are doing and the algorithms used. Please do!
Noted!
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definitely curious about the actual workings & data determining of the oil life readings.... I've heard that some simply measure the difference between oil restriction before the filter & after & calculates restriction (older chevys)..... others claim vehicles like the Ram use a more sophisticated set of readings that actually change oil life as driving conditions, speed, load, temperatures change, stop n go vs highway miles.... I myself DO notice it change depending on my weekly travels... if I'm loaded heavy most of the week doing around town it'll change faster than if i put 600 miles of highway loaded just as heavy.
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Yes, on the oil change computing
Noted!
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Always remember, "where air goes, water goes". Powersports like ATV, motorcycles and Jet Skis usually have a petcock to shut off fuel. Most owners, run the carbs dry and that is a no no. You want to keep the air and moisture out of the carbs and keep the seats and o-rings wet. Your advice to fill the tank is correct, but you do need to leave a small air gap for expansion especially if you use a heated storage area. The fuel will expand and push gas through the carbs into the engine. Turn the petcock to off if you have one. Don't forget to run the engine after fuel treatment. Many people forget to do this leaving the fuel and components in the system after the tank remain unprotected.
You did not mention fogging oils. I like to fog 2 stroke engines through the induction system to coat the crank and lower bearings in addition to the cylinder walls. On 4 strokes, I spray fogging oil through the spark plug holes and spin the motor to distribute. You are correct, never start a motor in storage, but I do recommend spinning the motor over to keep the cylinder walls and rings coated.
Great video, keep up the good work.
Thanks!
My 2005 6.0l Powerstroke has been parked for 11 months without being started. It has Amsoil in it, not that it matters at this point. I do need to resurrect it and do an easy drive to get it warmed up and get the oil dumped, I do have a test kit for a competitor because I didn't know about you Mr.Lake Speed jr. But I do now and will use you in the future. And I live in Az. In an area that actually gets 4 seasons. I'm a religious user of fuel additive and preach it to my son to use in his 6.7 Cummins.
Yes on oil life indicator. That would be useful knowledge.
Noted!
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Yes definitely explain how the oil life system works.
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Yes, please let us know how oil life indicators work. Thanks for the tips.
Noted!
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yes on oil life indicator.........my question is starting a engine after sitting for six months to a year. What is your advice?
Thanks....i really like your videos......very educational
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I often see friends and neighbors storing their car the wrong way for winter. Especially bad is when they start the engine every 2 or 3 weeks, letting it idle for 10 minutes with the garage door open, and then shutting it down. All the unburned fuel gets into the oil and dilutes it. Thanks for the video, Lake!
Agree on changing oil before storage. But I would also add that you should disconnect the battery to eliminate parasitic drain (i installed a hand-turn disconnect device) and REMOVE the electrical fuse to the engine fuel pump. Then before taking the vehicle out of storage, verify battery health with a volt meter, reconnect the battery, and crank the engine for about 45 seconds BEFORE replacing the fuel pump fuse. This gets oil to the crankshaft, cylinder walls, cams etc BEFORE starting the engine. Have been doing this for 25 years with our RV, against "common wisdom" to start engine once a month. Our 1997 V10 engine has 85K miles with just routine maintenance (oil & filter changes every 3-5K miles) and burns no oil.
Please also include Diesel engines in advice as I’m assuming it’s the same tips, but it would be good to clarify instead of guessing.
Like, is diesel fuel “life” in a full tank the same as Gas (petrol)?
Thanks for the suggestion!
Lake put me on the list for how the monitor works ! Thank you for the steady flow of info. WFO!
I did this from instinct, but im glad i didnt made a mistake....
Great video, as always !
Thanks!
@@themotoroilgeek Quick question : castrol or mobil 1?
As a generator Tech who works on a lot of propane powered units,they're always making milkshakes in the winter.
Standard procedure for probably the last 50 years is to do a test run once a week for 15-30 minutes for many reasons.
In the past couple of years ,the industry has changed slightly for these home air cooled units.
They test run once a week ,but only run for like 20-30 seconds and shut off.
Long enough to make sure it works and that's it.
For my summer cars , it's better off leaving it dormant all winter instead of starting it occasionally.
Besides,I go thru a prelube ritual in the spring for startup.
I knew all that back in 1975 when I stored my vehicles, long before you guys got together. In about 50 years of vehicle ownership I have never done a UOA and have never had an oil related failure with one engine even producing 190 HP per liter.
Yes please on the Oil Life monitor systems! Thanks
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I know you’ve brought all of this up before, but I always enjoy your videos. Take care.
It’s great to hear these tips from the two of you - I’m happy to hear that I’ve been doing it correctly. Thanks!
*_I learned allot from watchin this video & will start doing this for the winter? Now im curious… Does this also apply for storing a vehicle during the summer?? I would love a video on storing a vehicle away for the summer since it is getting hotter!_*
I would like to see your opinion on oil life indicator, but even more I would like your opinion on boutique oils (Redline, Amsoil, Ravenol and others).
Boutique oils. lol. That's a good way to put it.
Noted
I agree! There is tons of info on how OLMs work available with a quick Google search, although I'm sure Lake still has a lot of great info to contribute. But getting the opinions of an actual engineer who has data and experience to back up his opinions and claims on something like boutique oils is extremely rare since the actual experts usually aren't the ones making these videos and arguing on BITOG and other forums!
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@@themotoroilgeekMake videoes about group iv oils
I winterize boats for storage in the Northeast. In ideal circumstances I flush by running with fresh water until the engine is WARM and pull the drain plugs while flushing. Then change oil and filters and run on fresh water to circulate and warm the oil. Drain and fill with non toxic antifreeze and fog the
Carburetor or air intake while adding the last of the antifreeze. Also try to get some fogging oil inside the carburetor vents while fogging. I look for plenty of fogging smoke out the exhaust. Once had somebody call the fire department when smoke poured out of the small storage garage. Got out
just before the FD arrived! I add fuel treatment at the beginning but don't have much control over fuel tank volume. Gasoline does not deteriorate
noticeably over a few months winter storage. Summer heat ages gas.
Worst case scenario is leaving gasoline in a snow blower through spring, summer, fall and expect it to start at first snow. In spring start up
I gingerly crank the engine a few revolutions to check for hydrostatic
lock. Haven't had to deal with a stuck open valve in decades. They usually start up and run like I shut them off
yesterday. Burn off the fogging oil on the run from launching to docking.
Always looking for the perfect fogging oil, I've had good results with
CRC Engine Stor fogging oil. GOT A PERFECT FOGGING OIL?
Empty or part empty tanks also take in air as temperature cycles. This can cause significant condensation on light aircraft. Amazing how much water that collects in the water drains.
Great point!
Only think I haven't been doing was changing my oil before parking it, guess Ill start doing that now.
Also interested in oil life indicators, keep up the good job!
Thanks! Will do!
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After 40+ years in the aftermarket & dealers as a tech, I changed jobs the landed me with Delco. We had two meetings per year and spoke with the two guys who wrote software for GM vehicles equipped with this. They took the same approach with one engine, samples, 3rd party testing, compression, fuel mapping at 2,400 RPM, and dozens more until they logged 2,000 hrs. This equates to just at 2K of run time. They admitted to being very conservative display numbers which include low temp, 8 minute drive cycles near the end of the testing. A gallon of straight ethanol will hold 7 tablespoons of water but amount several but reduces the molecular size to pass thru injectors. I disconnect the vehicles battery, clean and apply dielectric grease. 7-8 in-lbs is proper torque I believe. I have volt meters, trickle chargers and a conductance tester. I test once a month roughly. Extended mix on a full tank is best, but not over full. Nitrogen in tires helps keep rim to bead corrosion way down. Retired.
Good video. Also best to have a trickle charger, to keep the battery charged.
I have never seen a video like this before. However, I have been doing exactly what you recommended for years. My question is if for some reason you do have to move a vehicle that say you are driving on a regular basis but not using it that day or perhaps several days, can that moisture that is introduced to that shortengine run be burned out at later time by driving the vehicle well enough to completely bring the engine up to temperature for a extended period of time? Great video, and thanks for posting it.
Thanks for watching and the question. Yes, driving the car can get the engine up to temperature and burn off the moisture.
Yes...oil life indicators, thanks
Noted
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Yes, please cover how oil life indicators work
Got it!
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YES! 👍 on oil life indicators!! 😁
Noted!
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Hello and thank you for the knowledge shared on this video and other ones.
I have a couple of thoughts that I would like to share and, to get your feedback as well on the 3rd. item :
1.- I agree with this video on the draining of the old oil and its replenishment with a new one before Engine Storage for reasons associated with oil degradation due its contamination associated to Oxidation, Humidity, Reactivity, etc. etc.
What I disagree with is the notion that once the oil has been replenished, one should avoid running the engine because of the potential for additional wear of its internal components.
Let's remember that we are replacing the old oil for a new one because of oil degradation which has already coated the entire engine. Therefore, it is NOT a bad approach to run the engine with the new oil to allow it to coat all the internal components with an oil that has all of its properties brand new for higher protection of its internal components.
2.- The second thought is associated with anti-corrosive agents added to the Engine oil prior to its storage. This is known as "Engine Preservation" and it is used extensively on aircraft Turbine Engines that will be seating for months or years waiting to be leased. This procedure is very precise and not only protects the Turbine Engine's AGB - Accessory Gear Box, but its Bearings and, the HMU - Hydro-Mechanical Unit that Meters the Fuel, by providing a coating of the entire Lube Oil System and Fuel Metering unit with anti-corrosive agents. This approach is coupled with the placement of Desiccant bags and humidity detectors followed by wrapping and sealing of the entire engine with a high density plastic sheet to reduce the potential of Oxidation as a result of Air Humidity.
I understand that this is NOT a practical approach to reciprocating engines installed on vehicles but it gives us an idea as to how things get done on much more pricier engines.
3.- To enhance this video I would like to suggest the introduction of Dedicated Corrosion Protection Additives along with its associated Testing not only for Vehicle engines but for " Standby Portable Power Generators" for personal use, that remain off for months until needed and remain exposed to the humidity and its detrimental effect on the engine internal components. The Engine User's Manual talks a bit about its storage, but the subject is very interesting and worth of additional input from your team.
Keep up the good work & looking FWD to hearing from you.
Sincerely,
Roberto V. Herreria, BSME, A&P.
Broward College PP - II Instructor
rherreri@broward.edu
The whole time I keep hearing stuff but keep eye balling what appears to be a VW SYNCHRO in the background???? Freaking SWEET!! oh yeah back to the oil stuff haha
Yes please on oil life indicators 😊
Noted!
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Yes do those ridiculous engine oil sensors. This was the most important video👍
Engine oil sensors? They have level sensors but no sensor to check oil quality. It is a sophisticated program that monitors driving stye and conditions. Based on operating conditions the program will determine when the oil is in need of a change assuming the customer is using the specified oil.
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I own a 2005 GTO with a manual transmission that I purchased new, it has 44k miles on it. It's a pleasure cruiser that gets about 2k miles a year put on it. It's stored in a garage on a battery tender most of the time. I change the oil and filter once a year regardless of the mileage, I also submit an oil sample for analysis once a year to keep an eye on the engine's condition. I always use Mobil 1 5w/30 and a Wix filter. I start the car once a week for 10 minutes, I feel these steps are keeping my car at its best.
Literally just told you not to start the car
That doesn't mean I have to listen. The oil analysis comes back good.@@BubblesTheCat1
it depends also by the storage place / climate. if humidity and temp. variations are present the moisture can condesate inside the cylinder wall and potentially rust over time.
we had a car for our kids to use and they just drove to work couple minute drive few days a week and i looked and the oil cap had white foam from moisture buildup in the oil from all the short trips and never getting warmed up, so we changed oil and made sure to drive it further once in a while never saw problem again.
These are SOP for marine boat engines and what I typically do on my classic cars and motorcycles. However, you skipped fogging the engine which is SOP on Marine engines 2 or four cycle. Easy on carburetors but difficult for fuel injected engines. I remove plugs and spray a fogging oil into the cylinders and crank engine over with fuel delivery off and ignition disconnected. My 2 cents.
YES, for OLM video! Specifically the rumor that GM had to reprogram theirs due to it being too lenient, & causing engine failure during warranty. There definitely is a difference between my 2008 Buick & my 2020 Express!
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Yes I would like a video on oil life monitors!
Noted!
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Great video! I Would love a video on modern car oil life indicators, also would you make a video explaining why you don’t like additional additives in oil such as MOA or Liqui moly? And what are your thoughts on their engine flushes as well?
Noted!
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Yes please! Thank you for all the information!
You got it!
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Yes on oil life indicators, specifically does the algorithm use 1) highway vs city driving and 2) # of cold starts?
Noted!
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Keep them coming Mr Lake!!!!
Thanks!
All good recommendations.
I do actually recommend you start cars that are chain driven and have plastic chain guides. They stay supple by design by being in contact with oil. So they can become prematurely aged by not being in contact with oil once they have been heat cycled many times in the engine. So I personally recommend starting the engine once every 3 months if its being stored for longer that this.
This recommendation come for European and Japanese cars. We don't really have any customers with American car (maybe the odd Corvette). But as said you shouldn't be starting it every week.
Definitely interest in oil indicator video. My wife’s Explorer goes around 10,000 miles before coming on. I can’t go along with that.
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Ive watched all your videos your a sharp man on oil. I agree with all your content Ive seen. I want a video on Mobile one 0w30. Because its one of the few oils that I can purchase that meets all the specs on my 24 Hyundai Santa Cruz turbo. I will be letting your company do a oil analysis at 4000 miles. Thanks for all the info you do.
Awesome vid. Keep it up! Such important content.
Thanks!
Yes please on oil life monitors.
Noted!
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F-bomb yes we want a video on measuring oil life in cars
Noted!
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YES on oil life indicators.
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Yes, please do a video on oil life indicators because I truly believe these are meant to benefit the manufacturer and not the car owner.
Noted!
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I also plug the exhaust and the air intake holes so no more oxigen goes in. Full tank with additives circulated, new oil circulated too, I raise it on stands to protect the tires. Then follow the pre spring start checklist. I have a convertible BMW 2001.
Yes please, to oil life indicators!
You got it!
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Absolutely yes. All of your videos are great
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Yes for oil life meters. And how much and where do you send your oil
Noted! Check out www.SPEEDiagnostix.com for the details on the oil analysis.
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yes, do a vid on oil-life indicators in vehicles. and how accurate they are along with the reset function. tks.
Noted!
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I had to replace oil pump (blowoff valve) in e46 m3 after 3 years of storge starting every other month. I was advised to start periodically to keep seals from drying out, however moisture in oil corroded blowoff valve. If your start it, drive it to operating temp.
I'd like the oil life indicator coverage, having a hard time believing it. Great suggestions on storage, it's what I've been doing for a long time in WI. 1 classic car and 2 Harleys
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@@themotoroilgeek watched it yesterday and it wasn't what I expected. I guess they're more accurate than I had thought. Thanks!!!