Triangulated 4-Link | D21 Drift Truck - Ep. 19
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ต.ค. 2021
- The triangulated 4-link video is here at least! With life being so insane over the past few months, I was worried I would never get around to it. Luckily the skies briefly parted allowing me enough time to tackle this little project. Enjoy!
#drifttruck #nissanhardbodyd21 #4link
****************THIS VIDEO IS NOT SPONSORED****************
All parts, tools, chemicals and equipment used in this video were purchased with my own money. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Got me motivated to do that to my ‘83 B2000
finally a video showing exactly what i want to be able to do. that is so insanely clean there is no way i could do that on my first try
Don’t sell yourself short… this was my first go at it. Just took my time.
Hello my name is Ben from Ghana you really do teach me a lot when I watch your videos thank you for helping me be great like you by watching your videos please never stop posting so I will never stop watching
I love the way you did this it is by far the nicest fourlink I've seen for a hardbody well done!
2 weeks late but im here happy to watch your video I always look forward to watching them.
Welcome back buddy!
Glad for the update on the Hardbody🤘🏻 Hate to hear about the pos’s around the other spot. You seem to be handling it so good luck 👍🏻
Great video!! It’s coming out super nice!
Good to see you back
Soooooper clean. I can't wait to see this thing finished! Your videos come out so few and far between that they've been become my most anticipated on TH-cam. I mean that as a huge compliment lol!
Thanks!
I assure you it’s not on purpose. Haha I try to make content and something always seems to pop up. Just the way it goes I guess.
Great explanation on how a 4 link works and the fab work looks awesome!
Thanks man!
Good to hear from, like a Christmas present!
that is a great video and job. This might be the best 4 link suspension video that I have watched. Super nice. thank you
Awesome video my man I love it. I'll be applying this method to my forty nine chevy truck. Thank you.
Finally!!! Your truck is badass bro!! It’s coming along really good can’t wait for the sliding vids
Thanks! I can’t wait to just beat the hell out of this thing. Tired of looking at it, just want to drive it.
Glad to see your back man been waiting on another update! Great work man!
Thanks!
I’m in love with your HB build. I’m taking notes and someday I will start putting my Hardbody drift truck together. I already have a backyard worth of Hardbody parts to get started on my build. I just need to get off my butt and start my project.
Very nice work sir!
Nice and clean job 👌🏽💯🔥
Thanks!
Very nice quality!
Hell yah nice work
My favorite build atm, I got a Mazda b2000 that I'm about to start building and everything I'm planning you're literally doing.
Great job very informal
Very good, I have been looking for just this for 2 days.
My man good job keep it up 👍
SWEET AS.. NICE WORK!
Thank you!
I have the same kit but putting it on a 78 datsun 620. Glad I was able to find this video
Nice job , ive been watching a bunch of custom rear videos , im getting ready to do my 98 tacoma 4x4 , so ive been taking a lot of notes , you had some good ideas/ advice ,
Ive been a mechanic for 30 yrs and a fabricator for the last 22, so i can do all the fab work and welding, but ive never done a 4 link , i cant wait to start cutting all the old stuff off , your jackstand idea is brilliant, im going to do the same,
Thanks from Terry off the grid in AZ
Been waiting for this one. I like the way you think. Texas truckin at its finest!
Texas all the way!
God damn you do some nice work man!
Thank you!
Yo this is tight ! And your really good at explaining your process everything looks awesome ! Great job. I wanna try something like this with my C1500!
Just found this channel, fuckin love it! I’ll have to start from the beginning of this build.
Great work like always! I definitely appreciate all the detail explanations. Low key we need to strive to keep our work area as clean as yours . lol sucks to hear about the shop man but it's better to keep your stuff safe than have all your hard work just stolen by thieves. Keep on mini truckin
Thank you. Keep truckin!
Drooling 🤤
You do some goooood work man! You're giving me some motivation on my Datsun 620 which is pretty similar build to yours, 4 link, front coilover setup, SR20, etc... But not as nice as yours haha.
Also my porta-band is one of my favorite tools for sure.
Thanks! I would kill for another 620. I should have never sold the one I had.
Yeah, that ports-band is becoming more useful by the day.
New subscriber 🔥🔥🔥
This set up is wicked clean. I want to build a mini truck as well but with a lexus or nissan 350z rear differential
Neat. 🤙
You must of had a bird in your ear. 😄 Me and another person on Infamousnissan was talking about you yesterday.
Glad to see your ok, and back.
Hopefully good things. Haha
You need Ride Tec bars because they have hime joints on the end to compensate for the angle of the triangle linkage
Great work nice and clean, my only concern would be the single shear on the coil overs. You could change it to double shear 👍
If the lower links are angled upward toward the vehicle roll center you will achieve what called anti squat, it helps with traction and reduces weight transfer under acceleration. Yup
That’s good to know. Thanks
Excellent job IS! What brand of coilover did you put in? I would imagine its a 250 lb spring, what is the shock dimension. I'm doing a '56 Chev pickup with a triangulated setup. Thanks
Good
it's wonderful cuz but if you go 45 deg on the upper links you don't need a panhard bar, but you have to replace one of your link ends with a haim joint.
Been a minute. Missed y'all, hope all is good 👋
Thanks! All is well indeed.
This is one of the best videos Ive seen for suspension! Did you make the stands? Great idea.
Thanks! I purchased the stands off of Amazon for ~$35. They are listed as: “Camco RV Jack Stands”. Then I just pulled the jack’s leveling post out and replaced it with 3/4” all-thread from Home Depot. Then I used nuts to level and lock everything.
I have a bunch of harbor freight tools. They all seem to be the tools i need rarely. Or disposable if need be. Hard to justify buying a tool that costs ten times more if you will only use it a handful of times. And some of them work just fine. I bought the bauer impact drill to build a dock and floating docks just in case i dropped it in the saltwater. Didnt want to risk dropping my milwaukke. That cheap little drill hasnt skipped a beat for years of abuse.
I need to know more about those all thread stands
daimm thats suck so much thats youve been stolen ... :( but im glad your finally back doing content :D
Heim joints instead of bushings would eliminate the bind in the upper links you’re describing mid video.
I need some exhaust manifolds too.
What dod you use for coilovers ? I have a 64 Galaxie and have no idea where to start with springs.
Nice ! Where did you get the links from?
How do you know how long to make the link bars?
hello I want to make my 4link and I don't understand the pinion angle, how do I adjust this angle? could you make a video explaining exactly how to configure these angles in a 4link, thanks your videos are nice
Glad to see you back! Sucks to hear about your boy. Having a shop on your property is awesome!
Off subject- Any chance you can sell one of your oil filter housings off one of your VH's? I messed mine up terribly.
I can look through my VH parts bin this weekend. I have another VH all tore down for spare parts.
@@Inner_Sanctum Dude that'd be sweet! No rush, but lmk.
INNER SANCTUM , what regarding you using and gearing ? It looks like a toyota tacoma axle but I could be wrong.
Nice!! How long are your bars
Where did you get the disc brake conversion and the 4 link ???
Awesome build guys ..fantastic..iv got a d21 duel cab with a rb25det motor in it . ...question. what wheels are these please? ?? ..asking from Australia
Thanks Gill. I bet that RB rips! Here’s that info:
Wheels: Level 8 MK6 17x9 +0 (6x139.7)
Tires: Federal RS-R 255/40r17
@@Inner_Sanctum thanks mate it's my mums old phone so it comes up her name .my names Scott gitsham ..cheers for the info re wheels .. I love the set up its so clean ..great videos
What are those coils! Im wanting to do this exactly to my 87 toyota project truck.
Quick question are the upper and lower links supposed to be perfectly evened out a 0 or ?🤔
Do you have a link on the 4 link that you used? I want to do mine in a few weeks.
Where did you get those adjustable all-tread stands??? Nice work BTW
They are “Camco” RV stack jacks. You can get a set of 4 on Amazon for ~$35 shipped. I then went to Home Depot and purchased a 4’ stick of 3/4” all-thread and some 3/4” nuts for adjustability. Lastly, I cut (4) 1’ pieces from the all-thread and assembled. Viola!
What degree of angle to you have your shocks mounted
Did you fully fab the kit or did you buy just a universal kit
Or you could probably follow the same technique on different trucks I’m assuming. I plan on building a Chevy OBS and the kids are all over $2000. This looks like a better option to me. Very similar to the ride tech four link that’s on my 68 Camaro
So cool man been too long… sucks about Chris’s Honda man… I wonder if the stock fuck tank would work in the factory location with those upper links. I want to bag my Hardbody but don’t want to move the factory fuel tank..
Unfortunately the stock tank would interfere with the upper link quite a bit.
Did you fab the parts yourself or is there a kit that I can buy to recreate your set up?
Hey mate im doing a drift truck build also. there is no information for 4 link instant centre and geometry . can you provide any advice for my triangulated 4 link setup cheers
Where'd you get the 4 link kit?
What rear end are you using I see disc brakes and not drums. That is exactly what I need to do to get mine up to date.
Stock D21 rear end with the Beebani dual caliper brackets and 2002 Honda Passport V6 AWD rear rotors.
Super helpful video. I’m starting a 4 link myself and find a lot of helpful content. Did you buy this as a kit and just make new tabs or is is all your work? I want to go triangulated also so I don’t have to add the watts or single track bar.
I bought this kit particular kit from Jason at Beebani Customs. Pretty much had to modify everything in some way, but it ended up working out okay. Definitely would have saved the money and built my own knowing what I know now.
That’s a beautiful 🤩 build congratulations. What kind of coil-over are you using. And that’s a great mini truck
Thanks! The coilovers are QA-1.
@@Inner_Sanctum is it 12” or 14”
@@matasgarage5454 they are QA-1 DS401 (14” extended) coil bodies all around, and running 9HT450 (450lb) springs up front and 9HT250 (250lb) springs out back.
On 5he top if you put it level then it's going to pull it to the frame
You didn’t bevel any of your mounts to make sure the weld went all the way through?
Depends on the joint I’m welding. I almost always put a ~45 chamfer/bevel before welding certain joint types. The inside corner joints and heavy lap joints on the upper mounting plates have plenty of penetration since I run the machine hot with a smaller .30 wire. The link mounting tabs on the axle third member absolutely have bevels. Most of my welds have bevels.
What do you have in this video for wheels and tires???
One of my favorite vids. It appears as though you are using the H233B differential. What gear ratio are you running? Is that an ABS sensor on the snout of the 3rd member? The pathfinder diffs have one. If so, you can use the output from that as a VSS, so you dont have to deal with a speedo cog, since you're using 350z trans. The relationship between pinion rpm and vehicle speed is linear.
It’s actually the weaker 10-stud 3.54 H190 with rear ABS. 97 was a weird year. Yep, I have a Dakota Digital signal box that I’m going to wire up to the ABS sensor and use as a VSS for the speedo. The pinion toner used is perfect for this kind of setup. I would like to swap over to a H233B at some point…
@@Inner_Sanctum I am working on H233B right now for my 1977 620. I blew the h190 years ago with a stock sr20det on 13lbs (T25).
@@Zukuri620 oh yeah, I’m sure it won’t hold together long. Just need it to survive long enough to shake it down.
In your opinion, my question is. What is the better to build 4-link suspension or independent suspension to obtain the smoothest ride on the road? I am willing to spend what is necessary but perhaps building 4-links would save me all the work of independent suspension and obtain the same result with triangulated links also incorporated a sway bar link on the axle? I repeat i don`t want anything else but a smooth ride. some advisor?
You’re almost always going to have a smoother ride with independent suspension. No question. There’s more independently moving parts to assist in adapting to all the variable road conditions. The more independent points of articulation, the more absorbing capabilities you have. That’s why IRS is superior in many ways to a standard live axle. For drag racing and off-roading, this change a bit. You sacrifice certain comforts to gain strength and linear traction.
The bushing rubber Part should be nice and mashed against the bracketed it spins internally not by the rubber piece
You need to remove the jam nuts.or just leave them loose. As built, it can’ articulate. You could also use hime joints.
A lot of folks think this for some reason. However, that’s not how this actually works.
You’re under the assumption that the bushings and links move together inside the permanent welded on mounting brackets. When in reality, there is a metal sleeve in the bushing that sets the nominal distance for “squish”. The welded mounting points and bushings remain 100% stationary, while the link rotates on the bushing during articulation. The link is the only part that can move up or down. The bushing does not move with the link.
If you look closely, you’ll notice the zerks fittings and how they distribute grease to the outer bushing side of the internal bushing. The bushing and metal sleeve are not designed to rotate hints why the grease doesn’t lubricate the inner sleeve. The bushings have to compress in order to add torsional resistance.
Also, heim joints wouldn’t work at this angle due to convergent geometry. It would toss instant center out the window.
What kit did you use?
I'm curious, if your links are two different lengths then won't the points of rotation be different anyway? And presumably the angle of the diff would change? Unless the points of rotation are with an equal length of axis then the diff would presumably rotate a little? I suspect having them offset/angled would greatly improve any side to side "swaying", but as you say, would rotate the diff. I'm curious though, you ended up angling them in anyway? Learning here anyway, planning a suspension setup for a tuk tuk funnily enough!
This is sort of difficult to explain concisely on a reply post, but I will try my best, as far as I can understand. I'm always learning too!
The lengths of the upper and lower links are different, but since they are able to rotate at both ends, it allows the diff to move up and down without the twisting effect. Eventually, you would run out of travel range starting with the shorter links first, but that would be over a much larger distance than this particular suspension would ever articulate. If this was an off-road build, meant for massive articulation, then the design would be different.
As for the triangulated (angled) portion of the setup... The upper links control the track of the rear end due to them being angled. There's no need for a panhard bar on triangulated setups because the side-side force is counteracted by the upper links. Now, if it was a parallel 4-link, that's a different story. Because there's not counteracting force from either of the links, you would need a panhard bar that would redistribute that force accordingly.
You are right the diff has to rotate because the arc of each control arm is different notice he did not put an angle finder on the flange and cycle the suspension.
Unfortunately, your bars are guaranteed to cause pinion angle issued. Please look up "instant center." If you draw straight lines through your bars, they should intersect the front of the vehicle.
Nope! Truck drives just fine. Zero pinion angle issues. I actually assumed the same thing, but I put my digital angle meter on the truck a long time ago, unhooked the coilovers, and ranged the suspension 14” and the pinion angle remained the same.
Where can I buy the kit ? Or how much would you charge me to make another kit for me
I’m about to do the same thing on a Toyota Hilux. My question is have to tried this triangulated 4 link drifting yet ? If so I would like to know how it does as far as the axle moving side to side under extreme loads that drifting puts on it. I’m hearing that it’s better to do equal length bars none triangulated and with a track locator bar is better for drifting. I’d much rather build it triangulated as long as it works for drifting
So… I built a 1UZ Toyota pickup years ago, and a buddy helped me fab up a similar triangulated setup. I really enjoyed it. It was predictable and simple. It definitely never felt like the axle was moving around. Haha I think that’s the importance of having it triangulated in the first place. The input force is cancelled out by the opposing side. The reason that there are different types of 4-link is due to fitment, space, and articulation requirements. They all effectively achieve the same result. Triangulated is the simplest, but also requires the most room to properly function.
On another note, the only sketchy thing about these little trucks is the flanged axles versus having a nut/hub combo. Thankfully nothing has ever happened to my personal trucks, but it was always in my mind. [Snap! Wheel and broken axle come flying off the truck… 🤣]
So is this a kit or did you custom design the length of the bars and angle? If it's a kit which one did you get because I definitely want to do something like this to my slammed Tacoma this summer. Sick build and hopefully mine comes out as good as yours haha
So, the 4-link is a kit by my buddy Jason at Beebani Customs. However, I had to do a lot of custom work to everything off-camera to get it all to work for my particular setup. So, I guess you could say “both”. Haha
Jason’s kits are designed to get you close, but everyone’s setup is different, and mine is REALLY different, so a bit of creative license was required.
Also, there are many different 4-link kits out there that can work. This was my first time doing one. Knowing what I know now, I would have just built my own or did IRS.
If you take your time, and understand the geometry, yours could be better than mine.
It looks like I could maybe make my own or modify a kit. Does the angle of the top arms matter and what do they have to be length wise in relation to the bottom?
What 4 link kit is that?
Where did u get this 4 link set up ? I got 96 hardbody that I’m waiting for Jason to send me his front coil over convertion kit but I want to do back too and there’s few options on eBay that I don’t know which it’s the best fit for a 96 hardbody thanks !!
This is Jason’s rear 4-link kit, albeit with extensive modifications on my part. His kit gets you close, but you’ll need to modify it to fit your specific needs.
Dang ! I asked Jason for a 4link and he said he won’t be making those for a good while if u know any similar setup please post it ! Thanks again! Badass build u doing by da way ! Hopefully u will make a video on custom sway bar to fit on Jason’s coil over kit thanks again
Thanks! Will do.
So, I think I may do the sway bar next. Not sure yet.
How is the fitment with 9" 0 offset wheels and 4x4 fenders? I'm ready to buy wheels and tires but unsure about this fitment.
You know, I’ve been meaning to make a video showing the difference between D21 2WD and 4WD fenders. I actually have all brand new fenders for both 2WD and 4WD.
I’ll pull everything from storage tonight and start working on a video tomorrow. It will be short and sweet. You’ll then have your answer. Expect it by Tuesday.
Here's the video:
th-cam.com/video/0bwLXdEr1Pw/w-d-xo.html
Hope this helps!
What 4 link kit is this?
Hey bud. What size are the rear rims and tires?
Wheels: 17x9 +0
Tires: 255/40r17
what’s size rims an tires do you run looks good
Wheels: Level 8 MK6 17x9 +0
Tires: Federal RS-R 255/40r17
I dont understand this linkage setup. If you look at 10:50 the upper control arms are pointing inwards. That means if they bend down or up (anything other than level) the ends welded to the axle will have a tendency to pull away from each other. But since they are welded to the axle, they can't physically get any wider, so their movement (I think?) would be limited by the amount of slop the bushings allow. So you're chewing through bushings.
Well, I’ll try to help clarify. I know you’re legitimately wondering like I was at first. Also, I love these types of posts. This is what helps people learn. Please don’t delete it. Lol
That would only be true if one end on each upper link was stationary. If you look at the links, both ends have bushings. Both ends on all links move. There are 4 links total with 8 independent points of movement.
I presume you’re thinking that only one end moves and that they travel on their own respective arcs. Meaning that the right upper link and left upper link push and/or pull against each other during operation depending on arc lengths. That’s not the case. Having 2-points of rotation on each link eliminates those arc tendencies. There is, however, a slight centering force in relation to the axle…
That’s kind of the point of a triangulated 4-link. As the suspension is under force, it helps center the axle ever so much. That’s why triangulated 4-links do not require pan-hard bars or stabilizer bars like parallel 4-links. The upper links split the angular difference allowing side to side and front to back stability. The movement doesn’t chew up bushings because the axle is free to be where it needs to be under the truck. That’s why it’s so important to measure everything correctly. That axle is going to sit where you put it in relation to the bars.
Here’s a book by Max Fish on 4-link geometry that explains it much better than I can:
books.google.com/books/about/Air_Suspension_Design_Book.html?id=-2ESzgEACAAJ
How much horsepower can the stock rear end handle?
Going to find out! Haha
In all seriousness though, there’s not a lot of data out there to suggest the “safe” limits accurately. Torque, traction, torsional rigidity, and shock all play a huge role in destroying these gear sets. However, when I compared this 3rd member to my R200, there’s nothing to suggest that it wouldn’t hold up just as well.
I’m going to start with ~300ftlbs at the wheels and work my way up to ~400ftlbs. Honestly, I would like dial my setup down to around 360-380whp and sub 350ftlbs at the wheels.
Having built cars between 250-700whp, in this weight range, in the past, I feel like 360whp is the sweet spot. Especially in the land of SR20. Lol
Hey man what shocks did you use
QA-1 DS-401 coilover bodies all around. QA-1 9HT-450 springs (front) and 9HT-250 springs (rear)
Can you send me link to where you purchased the kit please ?
Easiest way is to hop on IG and lookup Beebani Customs (Jason Pope). He doesn’t have a site to link.
What coilovers did you use
QA1 Coilover Bodies: DS401
QA1 Springs (Front): 9HT450
QA1 Springs (Rear): 9HT250
I have since switched springs. I’m now running 9HT650 up front and 9HT450 out back.
What lb coilover did you use in the front and rear
Originally I used 450lb front and 250lb rear, but now I’m running 650lb front and 450lb rear.
@@Inner_Sanctum thanks brother greetings from Trinidad and Tobago
@@Inner_Sanctumyou say 450# on rear. Is that for each rear for a total of 900# ?
@@jasonenglish4354 each.
@@jasonenglish4354 yeah, it’s 900 lbs out back. Pretty dang stiff… not sure if it will be ideal yet. Might swap back after I drive it and find out.