Any updates on this rear link setup, when's the next video on this coming out? Also could u share the links for the truss and upper link mounts to truss also lower control arm brackets on axle side....
Nice man. Cool to have a buddy like Nate close by. His laser tricks have been crazy helpful in my build. Keep up the good work. Looking forward to the video installing the shocks.
Man I just stumbled across your channel and after watching your front axle truss install I’m going down the list reading about this sort of project makes it seem some what impossible but watching someone do it that takes time to explain and show what’s going on makes it seem not to bad for a guy with a little knowledge to do on his own jeep
I would have been fine with keeping the leafs but I wanted to stretch it out and would have needed to rebuild shackle locations anyway, so I decided to just bite the bullet and go 4 link
Is there a reason why at ride height the height joint isn't centered in the bracket. They seem to be centered in the upper. I'm assuming it's for a reason. How's a setup like this on the hwy? Great work.
I'm getting ready to do this myself, but I don't understand why the chassis side uppers mount with a vertical bolt. It seems to me like that would limit flex, but I'm far from an expert. Does it provide a performance advantage or is it just convenient?
Definitely look at going with a 2.5 air shocks or radflo makes a really reasonable emulsion c/o. 2.0 air shocks usually aren’t happy under a full body rig.
That's interesting because I was trying to decide what to go with. I was leaning toward 2.0's because the cherokee doesn't have much weight back there. I don't think I'm even running a spare. I'll have to look more into it
@@MuddyBeards4X4 just did a ton of research on them before did mine. 2.5’s on my front only took 150 psi to set the ride height with 5 in of up travel. 2.0’s would have taken twice that. So it’s going to unload because the spring rate will be higher at full droop causing it to unload way easier. The 2.0’s are only good to 500 lbs sprung weight. I would bet your over that. My 86 one ton 4runner weighs in at 4500 lbs. it’s striped down to nothing.
But that is on the front with the weight of the engine. In the rear it's a lot lighter. I need to read up more or call accutune. Thanks for the input. I have some research to do
@@MuddyBeards4X4 I’ve had mine on corner weight scales. I’m only 250 lbs heavier in the front. Accutune will definitely point you on the right direction.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 Oh right, good point, i will have to remember that...Thanks :) Just been watching your Dana 60 swap, very impressed, I am clearly going to learn a lot from you.
The heims on the lower axle side look to be at a pretty decent amount of misalignment already. Any concern for those? I know triangulation gets rid of the need for a track bar, but it’s only upper so I’m assuming you’ll still get some flex steer. Any concern you might bottom out the misalignment on the heims and damage them?
Can you link the link tabs you used? I am unable to find. Just getting around to this project for my brothers Jeep and this would be nice not to make my own. Thanks, keep up the great work!
That would outboard the lowers, not sure the geometry would be good (likely have zero triangulation) also I wouldn't trust the leaf spring mounts. They are double wrapped but Still pretty thin and I don't think they were designed for torsional force a link would apply to them vs. a leaf spring.
Good evening. Just watched your video on replacing rocker panels w/2x6 steel tube. I plan on doing the same. Where is a good place to get all the steel? Thanks. I enjoy all the videos. Really helps me with what I want to do with my xj.
I just started ripping and tearing on a 02 tracker I got today. Been looking for a victim, I mean vehicle that was begging for trail duty. Wanted to do a SAS swap on the f150 but rather use it for regular truck stuff like tow vehicle. When I break this little gem I'll use your info to upgrade. Thanks again!! Ps first mod is roll cage cause I hate dying. Lol
That’s pretty awesome, what tire size do you plan to run with that 1 ton, and will it be a Trail only rig? I got a 96’ XJ on 35’s that’s been sitting in the garage with boxes and junk on it for 6 years and now I’m thinking of maybe resurrecting it and doing something cool with it, your video is giving me ideas 😬👍
Muddy Beards 4X4 40’s .. awesome muddy! I’m thinking for myself a 35 spline 9” rear, 44 front, chassis stiffners, hybrid cage, and an Atlas, ohh and 37’s on an 8” long arm (I have a modified RE short arm kit right now at about 6.5”), you think that would still be streetable enough to drive it from So.Cal. To N. Cal. and back? I don’t need a daily driver but do kinda need to get it to the trails without towing it. Thanks man .. subscribed 👍
When it comes to the degrees of separation I have a builder question: If I am in a build, and know I will be rolling out the shop on 35s, for now, but with in the next 2 years will be up in the 38 or 40 class of tire, would it be ok to build it out right for the 40 inch tire, 10 inches separation, but run a smaller tire at first, will this have any negatives in the mean time. What if you went more than 10%? Is that 10% of the tire size formula a hard line or is it more of a minimum? Hope that makes cents to you but it is the situation I am in lol.
I would absolutely set it up with the larger tires in mind. As long as you do not run into clearance or other geometry issues it won't change anything having more link separation. It will only make everything stronger
Haven't burned them in all the way yet, but it will be tough to get a weld along the top unfortunately. But I should be able to round the corners and reach decently across the top joint.
I actually would go with the 10 degree mounts if I were to do it again. I bought the parallel mounts and they will work but the 10 degree mounts will prob help the misalignment
Hi,,,, love your work,,,👍,,i love this linking install in car,,,, will it be possible if i ask you to come to my place Nagaland (Northeast India) For installation in my car? Just my crazy thought 👍
hi, friend. hope you are well. I need a favor from you. I am modifying a Jeep Suzuki samurai and where I live it has not been easy for me to get a design of the link parts and the joints that go to the chassis. I ask say you can provide me with the design for me to manufacture here in CNC machine
This setup is not a kit made for an XJ. It's all custom using builder parts. Having to re-route the brake lines is not a big issue when building a custom setup
@@MuddyBeards4X4 oh sorry I was just going off the title of your post easy custom four link swap Cherokee XJ LOL those brackets are specifically made for a Cherokee at least the ones on the frame rails let’s not turn this into an argument you’re the one that left some things out in the video you call it an easy swap as you invite your friend over and you guys are shooting lasers on the ground LOL LOL LOL
The lasers are for aligning the axle. Something you need to do for a swap. And this is just about the easiest way to swap a linked sterling axle into your jeep. You could always stay leaf sprung. But there isn't really an off the shelf swap kit for putting 1 ton axles in your jeep. Its going to take some fabrication and some modification.
Why didn't you install frame stiffeners before the 4 link thats alot of weight and abuse to put thin 16 gauge steel through repeatedly. Probably won't handle it for long without issues.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 I see. We got the same brackets but for our comanche build. And being that these brackets pitch the bottom out at 10* and the comanche frame is wider than the XJ it means our lower joint has to always be at a 10* angle. So just was worried about flex angle.
Keep trying to decide if I'll spend several grand on a G2 front 44 on my XJ (have rear 44), or spend many less monies and get 60 front and 10 and 1/2 Sterling rear. Dont currently have welder, but am well-acquainted w/ the folks at 4WP in Tacoma. What do ya think? Need feedback. Thank you.
I guess it depends on what your build goal is. 44's have great ground clearance and well built ones can hold up to 40's just fine. I went with the super duty axles because they are cheaper than 44's
My build goal is to have axles that I cannot break (easily) and that will have great aftermarket support, w/ many options for lockers. oh, yeah, i want to run 36's w/ease. Probably keep my leaf springs unt
Sorry. Was saying, "Until I have the provisions to do a four link rear". Just put in JCR quarter panel armor/ lights. Only took 5 and 1/2 months to get here. Covid.
I would not go one tons for 36's. The ground clearance would be awful. I ran a 30 and an 8.8 for three years locked on 36's and never had any issues. Well built 44's will be bullet proof on 36's.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 I’m redoing the 4 link on my crawler and ran into the same thing, I think my uppers are going to end up being about 4 inches longer then the lowers.
Nice job Robbie.Glad to see Nate giving you a hand...👍👍💪💪
Really enjoyed that, very inspiring. That XJ will be extremely capable once your done with it. Thanks for taking the time to film it!
thinking of doing a triangulated 4 arm in the rear of one of my jeeps. I liked how you used pvc for mock up I never considered it, that's a good idea
Nice work!! That XJ is going be awesome!! Love to see friends helping each other to! Keep Up!
Damn Robbie you made that look so easy. Nice work.
Thanks brother
Hell yeah! Get'n after it. Good to see Nate sharing his knowledge. 👍👊
👍
Any updates on this rear link setup, when's the next video on this coming out? Also could u share the links for the truss and upper link mounts to truss also lower control arm brackets on axle side....
Nice.... You will like being linked back there. I have been happy with my choice to run the ADS nitrogen shocks on my YJ.
Do you need a panhard bar with a triangulated 4 link? Building a tow rig. Roughly 550 torque setup. Air ride. Straight C channel frame.
I saw the laser line level and thought, "That looks like something Nate would do." Then I saw who it was.
Me Too! XD
Was it him all along , that damn Nate
Nice man. Cool to have a buddy like Nate close by. His laser tricks have been crazy helpful in my build. Keep up the good work. Looking forward to the video installing the shocks.
Thanks man
I'd like to do this with the stock axles for now
Man I just stumbled across your channel and after watching your front axle truss install I’m going down the list reading about this sort of project makes it seem some what impossible but watching someone do it that takes time to explain and show what’s going on makes it seem not to bad for a guy with a little knowledge to do on his own jeep
That's the idea brother. I hope it helps.
Nate is the man. I have a soft spot for leafs, but awesome video.
I would have been fine with keeping the leafs but I wanted to stretch it out and would have needed to rebuild shackle locations anyway, so I decided to just bite the bullet and go 4 link
@@MuddyBeards4X4 sounds logical and smart move
8:10 ground clamp be like: whoa bruh, I wasn't ready
Is there a reason why at ride height the height joint isn't centered in the bracket. They seem to be centered in the upper. I'm assuming it's for a reason. How's a setup like this on the hwy? Great work.
I'm getting ready to do this myself, but I don't understand why the chassis side uppers mount with a vertical bolt. It seems to me like that would limit flex, but I'm far from an expert. Does it provide a performance advantage or is it just convenient?
Awesome build bro
Definitely look at going with a 2.5 air shocks or radflo makes a really reasonable emulsion c/o. 2.0 air shocks usually aren’t happy under a full body rig.
That's interesting because I was trying to decide what to go with. I was leaning toward 2.0's because the cherokee doesn't have much weight back there. I don't think I'm even running a spare. I'll have to look more into it
@@MuddyBeards4X4 just did a ton of research on them before did mine. 2.5’s on my front only took 150 psi to set the ride height with 5 in of up travel. 2.0’s would have taken twice that. So it’s going to unload because the spring rate will be higher at full droop causing it to unload way easier. The 2.0’s are only good to 500 lbs sprung weight. I would bet your over that. My 86 one ton 4runner weighs in at 4500 lbs. it’s striped down to nothing.
But that is on the front with the weight of the engine. In the rear it's a lot lighter. I need to read up more or call accutune. Thanks for the input. I have some research to do
@@MuddyBeards4X4 I’ve had mine on corner weight scales. I’m only 250 lbs heavier in the front. Accutune will definitely point you on the right direction.
I am under the impression airshocks don't like being run at speed long also. So not so great on a street driven rig.
very clean simple work. good job
Thanks man
Can somebody explain how to determine "Ride Height" ? I get the math on everything else but can't seem to find that discussion anywhere.
Thanks!
Loved the video!! Ready for the front end!
How are all the components holding up?
What is the benefit of having the frame side upper link set vertical like that?
Great Job, although i would have put the lower control arm brackets on the axel the other way up so they dont fill up with dirt.
The brackets are designed that way to protect the joint. Its like a mini skid plate. Flip it upside down and the joint will contact rocks
@@MuddyBeards4X4 Oh right, good point, i will have to remember that...Thanks :) Just been watching your Dana 60 swap, very impressed, I am clearly going to learn a lot from you.
The heims on the lower axle side look to be at a pretty decent amount of misalignment already. Any concern for those? I know triangulation gets rid of the need for a track bar, but it’s only upper so I’m assuming you’ll still get some flex steer. Any concern you might bottom out the misalignment on the heims and damage them?
very nice, same set up on my kj
Killin it, Robbie! 💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸👍🏻
Thanks man
Tons and done ✅
So pumped for this build
Same here!
I'm just glad to see quality Cherokee content and what will come
Me patiently waiting and rewatching this episode
Can you link the link tabs you used? I am unable to find. Just getting around to this project for my brothers Jeep and this would be nice not to make my own. Thanks, keep up the great work!
barnes4wd.com/products/upper-triangulated-4-link-combination-bracket
Use our discount code and get 10% off your purchase
Very cool. Nice cameo from Nate 🤣
He is a good friend to have
@@MuddyBeards4X4 YOU are a good friend to have!
great video as usual! i swear i heard that first song on matt's or BSF RECOVERY channel great music either way.
It's all royalty free music. So you probably did lol
Awsome video a question, why can't the original leaf brackets be used they are really close and sturdy.
That would outboard the lowers, not sure the geometry would be good (likely have zero triangulation) also I wouldn't trust the leaf spring mounts. They are double wrapped but Still pretty thin and I don't think they were designed for torsional force a link would apply to them vs. a leaf spring.
Was that weld through primer you used before you welded the plate to the unibody? Was that to prevent rust from forming in between the two medals?
Yes and that's the idea to try and prevent rust
Good evening. Just watched your video on replacing rocker panels w/2x6 steel tube. I plan on doing the same. Where is a good place to get all the steel? Thanks. I enjoy all the videos. Really helps me with what I want to do with my xj.
Amazing work very informative. By any chance to you have the parts# on your setup?
Love me some XJ! PNW!
Hey man awesome vid you put together here. What sch tubing did you use? Please and thank you.
Very nice project 👍and very analyze ✅awesome 👏
Thanks for the informative yet not super boring 4 link build. I'm bearded as well. Lol
👍
I just started ripping and tearing on a 02 tracker I got today. Been looking for a victim, I mean vehicle that was begging for trail duty. Wanted to do a SAS swap on the f150 but rather use it for regular truck stuff like tow vehicle. When I break this little gem I'll use your info to upgrade. Thanks again!! Ps first mod is roll cage cause I hate dying. Lol
Looks great man!
Thanks!
This is making me regret only upgrading the leafs on my 8.8 swap...
That’s pretty awesome, what tire size do you plan to run with that 1 ton, and will it be a Trail only rig? I got a 96’ XJ on 35’s that’s been sitting in the garage with boxes and junk on it for 6 years and now I’m thinking of maybe resurrecting it and doing something cool with it, your video is giving me ideas 😬👍
Right on man! I planning on running 40's and yes it is a trail rig only
Muddy Beards 4X4 40’s .. awesome muddy! I’m thinking for myself a 35 spline 9” rear, 44 front, chassis stiffners, hybrid cage, and an Atlas, ohh and 37’s on an 8” long arm (I have a modified RE short arm kit right now at about 6.5”), you think that would still be streetable enough to drive it from So.Cal. To N. Cal. and back? I don’t need a daily driver but do kinda need to get it to the trails without towing it. Thanks man .. subscribed 👍
Stupid question but when you say you have your axle at ride height, is that your picked ride height or how do you know that exactly?
Yes its a chosen ride height.
So how is the rear 4 link coming along?
Lookin good man🤙
What was that you were spraying on the unibody and the axle before welding?
Just a weld through primer. Helps protect behind the plate from rust
Curious what you did with fuel and brake line where bracket mounted
There is still room to run them above the bracket. Just tuck them above it
Great job on the video
Thanks!
When it comes to the degrees of separation I have a builder question: If I am in a build, and know I will be rolling out the shop on 35s, for now, but with in the next 2 years will be up in the 38 or 40 class of tire, would it be ok to build it out right for the 40 inch tire, 10 inches separation, but run a smaller tire at first, will this have any negatives in the mean time. What if you went more than 10%? Is that 10% of the tire size formula a hard line or is it more of a minimum? Hope that makes cents to you but it is the situation I am in lol.
I would absolutely set it up with the larger tires in mind. As long as you do not run into clearance or other geometry issues it won't change anything having more link separation. It will only make everything stronger
@@MuddyBeards4X4 OUTSTANDING....Thanks for all you and Kelly are doing here.
Subbed! I thought I've seen where the brackets are mounted on the cross member. Any thoughts on that approach?
They could be, but the links would be really long.
Were you able to get a bead on the outside top of that frame side bracket? Or just the inside top?
Haven't burned them in all the way yet, but it will be tough to get a weld along the top unfortunately. But I should be able to round the corners and reach decently across the top joint.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 I’d like to see what you end up coming up with. That’s the only thing keeping me from buying those brackets and 4 linking my rear😬
How did you reroute all of the brake and fuel lines on the driver side link where you welded the upper link?
I am just going to run them over the top. May have to give them a little bend to go up and over, but should be enough room
On the lower link axle mount. Is there a reason for using a 0° bracket vs using a 10° so the brackets are straight from unibody to axle?
I actually would go with the 10 degree mounts if I were to do it again. I bought the parallel mounts and they will work but the 10 degree mounts will prob help the misalignment
Hi,,,, love your work,,,👍,,i love this linking install in car,,,, will it be possible if i ask you to come to my place Nagaland (Northeast India)
For installation in my car? Just my crazy thought 👍
Question on the lower axle link mounts....would you say about 10* pointing inwards or more? Getting ready to make an order from barnes4wd.
I would get the ten degree mounts
hi, friend. hope you are well. I need a favor from you. I am modifying a Jeep Suzuki samurai and where I live it has not been easy for me to get a design of the link parts and the joints that go to the chassis.
I ask say you can provide me with the design for me to manufacture here in CNC machine
I see you focused on the passenger side bracket how did you deal with the drivers side lines that were directly in the way?
I just removed them. I will route them over the top of the bracket when I'm ready to hook up the brakes and fuel
@@MuddyBeards4X4 huh lol and if your adding kit without removing them how does that work you definitely left out a big part for installation lol
This setup is not a kit made for an XJ. It's all custom using builder parts. Having to re-route the brake lines is not a big issue when building a custom setup
@@MuddyBeards4X4 oh sorry I was just going off the title of your post easy custom four link swap Cherokee XJ LOL those brackets are specifically made for a Cherokee at least the ones on the frame rails let’s not turn this into an argument you’re the one that left some things out in the video you call it an easy swap as you invite your friend over and you guys are shooting lasers on the ground LOL LOL LOL
The lasers are for aligning the axle. Something you need to do for a swap. And this is just about the easiest way to swap a linked sterling axle into your jeep. You could always stay leaf sprung. But there isn't really an off the shelf swap kit for putting 1 ton axles in your jeep. Its going to take some fabrication and some modification.
is this formula the same when building a front for a 3 link? I figure so but thought I'd ask.
Yes but I'm sure packaging is different
Why didn't you install frame stiffeners before the 4 link thats alot of weight and abuse to put thin 16 gauge steel through repeatedly. Probably won't handle it for long without issues.
I did...... its mounted to 3/16 angle iron which is tied into the 3/16 angle frame stiffeners that were already on the center section.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 I see it now i was looking for a made to order frame stiffener and didn't see the angle my apologies.
Man I need people with a shop or atleast more space and tools so I can really get some work done on my xj
Having a shop is nice
That's fucking awesome buddy
Just tried to use your promo code on barnes, says invalid. Finally getting my zj long arms put together for tahuya this year.
That's strange. It's just muddybeards. Should work
@@MuddyBeards4X4 just tried it again. Says customer group is invalid.
I am looking into it, I will try and get it back up ASAP.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 sweet man, appreciate it. Be a yuuuge help with all the joints I need for my 3 link and tri4 for my ZJ.
You have to be logged into an account for the coupon code to work. Hopefully that helps.
You got any updates on the hydo assist kit you did?
It was functioning just fine when I took the jeep apart. I will be using it for the new setup as well
а куда устанавливать глушитель? места для него нет.
Do you have any video or photos of this flexed? Mainly the Barnes bracket area?
No I am no where near done. Everything is on backorder. Waiting on parts
@@MuddyBeards4X4 I see. We got the same brackets but for our comanche build. And being that these brackets pitch the bottom out at 10* and the comanche frame is wider than the XJ it means our lower joint has to always be at a 10* angle. So just was worried about flex angle.
Keep trying to decide if I'll spend several grand on a G2 front 44 on my XJ (have rear 44), or spend many less monies and get 60 front and 10 and 1/2 Sterling rear. Dont currently have welder, but am well-acquainted w/ the folks at 4WP in Tacoma. What do ya think? Need feedback. Thank you.
Sarra's Husband.
I guess it depends on what your build goal is. 44's have great ground clearance and well built ones can hold up to 40's just fine. I went with the super duty axles because they are cheaper than 44's
My build goal is to have axles that I cannot break (easily) and that will have great aftermarket support, w/ many options for lockers. oh, yeah, i want to run 36's w/ease. Probably keep my leaf springs unt
Sorry. Was saying, "Until I have the provisions to do a four link rear". Just put in JCR quarter panel armor/ lights. Only took 5 and 1/2 months to get here. Covid.
I would not go one tons for 36's. The ground clearance would be awful. I ran a 30 and an 8.8 for three years locked on 36's and never had any issues. Well built 44's will be bullet proof on 36's.
We’re your upper links longer then you lower links?
Yes. Ideally they should be as equal length as possible, but to get correct pinnion angle the uppers needed to be a bit longer
@@MuddyBeards4X4 I’m redoing the 4 link on my crawler and ran into the same thing, I think my uppers are going to end up being about 4 inches longer then the lowers.
Shouldn't be too much of an issue. Everything is a compromise.
What air shocks are you going with ?
Not sure yet. I think I'm going through accutune though.
What axle mounts did you use for the lower link bar
So axle mounts from Barnes
@@MuddyBeards4X4 ok found them thanks what mounting configuration did you go with?
Mine are the parallel ones or 0 degree. But if I were to do it again I would go with the 10 degree ones just center the misalignment a bit better
@@MuddyBeards4X4 ok cool thank you man I’m getting ready to do my rear and your video is great
what frame bracket kit is that?
Its from Barnes 4wd
Where is part 2 ?:)
Waiting on parts then I'll be getting to it
I'll bet a million you go with Fox coilovers.
Haha maybe
Is a drag link not needed
Not on a triangulated 4 link
A drag link is a steering item. But no a panhard bar is not needed on a triangulated 4 link.
3 years ago! Just saying 😂
That Nate guy has no idea what he is doing. ;) #dirtlifestylenate