Hitachi Leaf Blower Cracked Fuel Lines
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ต.ค. 2017
- Replacing the cracked fuel lines on a Hitachi RB24EAB leaf blower.
The fuel lines are Oregon and can be bought by the foot on Ebay.
ID 3/32" x OD 3/16" line - Oregon 07-261 (25' length)
ID .117" x OD .211" line - Oregon 07-256 (25' length) - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
![ลักพาตัว เอาลูกเอิร์นกลับมา...!! [เอิร์นไดเม่]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/f4NVKlZ5qkk/mqdefault.jpg)
Probably the best residential leaf blower ever made!
very nice video, the only one I spent more 20minutes to see in a year, yet it is worth, thanks a lot!
Thanks for the video. I have the same blower & same issue with a broken return line. I replaced all 3 OEM line with tygon lines. I was able to do it without disassembling anything other than popping out the primer bulb. All I needed was a needle nose pliers to pull off & put on the new lines.
Best leaf blower ever , warranty shows they make the best leaf blower . Had this problem to, do not even have to take carburator of . Put some cleaner by the gas in after a few years . My carburator was clogged by gum , cleaned carburator runs like new . Amazing blower , just perfect love it when something is really quality A+ .
Thanks Bill went out and bought another blower when this one was a simple fix. More money than common sense. Finally got around to fixing the Hitachi which is a lot better blower than my Poulan. Need to see the fuel line routing to complete the job. Again thanks.
Mine started leaking and I almost gave it up for a new blower. I ran into this video and have ordered a set of fuel lines from ebay. I'll follow your replacement video and you may have just saved me some $. thanks! 👍
mine has always run well and started up easily.... until it flooded badly lately and the 3 lines and maybe the grommets (2) in the tank top will be checked and maybe replaced. A 2-cycle has to be air-tight to pump fuel normally into the carb or back out. Leaks at a grommet can mess that seal up... '
How did it go?
Ethanol fuel is the root of most small engine fuel related problems. The only people who say they have not experienced problems with ethanol fuel are the bunny huggers, repair shops and those involved in making a dollar off it. I only run 91 octane ethanol free gasoline in everything I run. Good video.
4 years late, but my lines deterriorated with regular non-ehtanol unleaded fuel.
@@oubbascooba9824 same here. I only put non ethanol fuel in my small gas engines because ethanol definitely causes small carb issues...but my primer return line broke on mine anyway. Not a big deal to fix, but it is not an ethenol related fuel line issue on this machine. The return line is super tight inside the tank gasket. I reamed my gasket out just a little with a hand reamer. I'm hoping that will take care of my issue with the return line permanently. I think it may have something to do with how they get installed at the factory. Mine broke right at the gasket.
glad i saw what kind of carb that has. i was about to buy one of these Hitachi blowers but those Rotary Valve carbs start at about 59 and go all the way to 90. and are near impossible to rebuild.
Great I need to do the same too mine looks like thats the only weak point on these...im going to swap out the plastic primer bulb as well since im already there...thanks for the video
Trying to fix it with my son. He thought it would be funny to add silly comments. Thanks for the video.
Thanks, it's the same as the orange Tanaka hand held blower. My fuel line started leaking today. I will try to replace it this week. I have 2 more hand held blowers I can use including a still in the box echo
Were you able to fix the Tanaka? Mine is leaking and that’s why I’m here
@@Moonkey-d4b yes I did. Just last week the float was stuck when it fell over in van leaked gas all in the engine. Took the spark plug out, drained the fuel just out the engine thru the muffler. Finished cutting the yards for that day. No problems or leaks since. I got my 100 bucks out this blower & it still should have a least a year left on the 7yrs warranty. I can buy carb off eBay 40$ & run it until I stop. It should have over 850hrs on it.
ChapStik is a good lubricant to get fuel lines on fittings. At 16:40 the spring is about 1/8" too long and keeps the line from kinking when bent so fuel can flow thru... Trim the spring. If the grommets are dissolved by ethanol from auto gasoline, isn't the carbuerator full of goop from residues? ths inside of the carb was not cleaned... right? So the lines may have been the problem, but a gummed carb inside would still cause problems
any tips for getting the fuel tank bolt back in? it wont seem to screw into anything. I assume maybe there is a flange nut somewhere that fell out?
Hey thanks for the video I was able to get the line diagram corrected 😂! Also the part where you put the carb upside down was so comical and you admit it was a bonus to me cause I'm the same put it on backwards 🤣😭 then correct it
I recommend spraying a few drops of liquid wrench or similar, on the 3 tank mounting bolts, between the tank mounting tap & bolt head, before you start to attempt removal of the tank bolts. I tried to unscrew the 3 phillips head step bolts on the tank, they are locked tight, I used 3/8 drive with a Philips socket. I got all but the last one with the hole thru bottom obstructing access out, if need be I will notch the plastic mounting tab and slide the tank in & out with out removing the step bolt, since there is clearance between the mounting tab and the head of the step bolt. I sprayed a few drops of liquid wrench under the tank, I had a new very small craftsman chisel, and I notched the screw head, and kept notching it as it slowly rotated counter-clockwise, finally it was loose enough to use my best phillip's screw driver. I didn't have to do any cutting on the plastic tank mounting tab. I finally figured how to flip the latch at the top of the black plastic carb cover to swing down, I left the carb on, after I removed the gas tank, and I used long nose pliers to remove and replace all the nylon fuel lines. Thank-you! Great video! (If need be the primer button has 2 latch taps, that if released, you can remove the primer.)
Thank you! An impact screwdriver might free up the screws but it might also crack the plastic. The one with the through hole in the plastic would still be a challenge. Sounds like how you did it will work out just fine.
I was ready to junk it on the last screw, but patience prevailed! Oh, I guessed at a quick quart of gas, and 1 ounce of proper oil, and after a few cranks it runs like NEW!
Where is the tank vent on this blower? Mine will empty the fuel tank through the muffler if any gas is left in the tank.
Sir.....I am having problems removing the bolts from the air filter/choke hold assembly. I have used several different phillips head screwdrivers..but to no avail. They won't budge at all. I am a novice and do not possess a lot of tools ....and just trying to replace a cracked fuel line on my Hitachi 24EAP......I think I can handle the repair......I am struggle to remove the 2 bolts from the assembly. Any suggestions.?
Hi Wild Bill, My Hitachi RB24EAB leaf blower fuel lines need to be replaced, do you know where I can buy both sizes less than 12" lengths or less?. eBay prices are too high and I sure don't need 25' lengths of each. There are no sellers on eBay who offer the Oregon fuel lines sold by the foot. HELP!
When is the sequel?
I've got an RB24EAP that I bought in 2015 or 2016 having this problem. My model only has a single grommet on the tank that both the supply and return lines go through (even though the parts diagram in the manual shows two grommets). As well, my primer bulb cracked. Bloody ethanol... Thanks for the video, though. Hopefully they used the same size lines even if they changed the grommet.
Hey David Doster, I am also have the same problem and same year as you with both lines go into a single grommet. Are the size of the lines that Wild_Bill listed in description or you ended up using different size? I'd appreciated if you could reply back. Thanks!!
@@fr3shstylez Hi man. I can't exactly remember, but I think I used genuine Hitachi lines. But I could be wrong. Sorry I am vague on the details, it was almost 2 years ago that I replaced the lines (or watched this video). Maybe someone who did this more recently can give you a more concrete answer.
Very helpful!
Glad I could help!
good video clip..... can you post some links for where to buy the tubing and spare parts and part numbers. Great Job, thanks
I updated the video description with the part numbers. The fuel lines are Oregon and I got them on Ebay because some sellers will sell by the foot.
Lmao, watched this 44 times. So funny.
30-years after the common use of gas with alcohol and no one will manufacturer alcohol proof gas lines. When the same issue popped up with cars, the manufacturers found a quick solution. What's up with the GD small engine folks?
J Dowd They are cheap and the China parts surpass warranty period
Have the same problem
Have this problem twice already. What's causing it to break?
Ethanol in the gasoline causes the fuel lines to get brittle. The ethanol also softens the rubber as well causing it to thin and eventually break. The Oregon lines I used in the video are somewhat resistant to the ethanol. Extreme cold can make some cheaper fuel lines brittle as well. You can buy premix 50:1 or 40:1 or whatever you need in some stores, and it's almost always ethanol free so that might be the way to go to preserve your carburetors and your fuel lines. It's rather pricey so it's really only an option if you don't go through lots of 2 cycle gas often.
@@billyb351 Thx. Just have a thought, so if I was to flush (pump out) the gasoline from the fuel line after using the blower, this should help prolong the life of the fuel line. Am I right?
@@goosecouple If you run it out of fuel and pump the primer a few times after that, it should help a lot. It's always recommended to drain the fuel or run it out of fuel before you store it for a long period of time.
@@billyb351 Thanks for the tip !
@@billyb351 Small engine manufactures could fix this issue if they wanted to.
The spring in the fuel line is to keep the line from collapsing when it's drawing in the fuel
Good, that's where I put the spring, my new nylon fuel line was just barely long enough for the spring.
No spark after new coil
I have two of these blower, one has been working very for over two years,easy to start.
The other one stoped and I replaced coil , now now spark. What can be my problem?
Is the air gap correct? The gap needs to be within the manufacturer's spec in order to get reliable spark. Usually the range of the spec for most motors is +/-0.004" from nominal or so. You really need to get that air gap just right on both sides of the coil. You can also test the coil resistance with a multimeter to see if the coil is good. You would need to find the resistance spec for this coil though. I'm not sure where to get that for this engine. Also double check to make sure the magnets on the flywheel are still good and haven't demagnetized.
why would you put the wrong line size in the description.
I should have read your message before I ordered it. What is the right size?
Yup I've got this lol model
This is extremely helpful, thanks! Could use some advice though. As in this video, one fuel line (pink/clear) was completely deteriorated at the grommet. Before replacing it I was able to jimmy the connection a bit to get it started, then it would run ok. I would have some restart issues after refueling however. A few months ago I replaced that single line - by just removing the 2 long black screws and letting the carb hang - didn't remove the throttle control, fuel tank, etc. I don't recall changing the line to the carburetor, but it too is clear, I can see fuel flowing and it doesn't have a spring in. (BTW I have a single piece, 2 hole grommet vs the two in this video, so there was slight change in models.) I cleaned the air and fuel filters. Seemed fine, but I didn't stress test it... I put the blower away until fall. Now, I can start it, there is plenty of fuel in the primer bulb, BUT.... it will idle for a minute or two and then dies... if I rev it slightly, it dies. Any suggestions????
Sounds like old/bad gas or the carburetor might be gummed up. What you're describing sounds typical of a carburetor problem.
@@billyb351 thanks- got some premix gas to test the bad gas/oil mix theory - no change. Ready to throw in the towel and get another next season. Made it this far into the fall with my EGO alone, guess I'll wait until next season. Thanks for you video!
I’m having the same problem
this guy is getting surprised at 3 fuel lines ? Skip it. he can make a vid after he understands what he is doing.