In most teardown videos for this trans people use a puller to get the pump out but I was able to get it out by screwing in two bolts that are the next size larger than than fastening bolts, gently tapping on the pump to loosen it, then literally just pulling it by each bolt and it basically just slid out. The pump holes are tapped with larger threads for precisely this purpose but you generally don't need a fancy tool to use them, just the 2 bolts and maybe a pry bar as used here.
Hi Gary .! I have a 87 celica with this similar transmission, it had started to have problems one day after I had switched out the radiator that I had in the back yard and might of caught it with bad fluid in the cooler and then witch led to the transmission slipping in reverse at first very minor but then I noticed when I went to turn the car on and put in drive it would move but out of no were it would lose traction at a stop and then bounce back into traction , once then the car would drive fine , but during driving on the turns the car almost felt like it would stall and at some time at a stop it did , so following these problems I changed the filter and fluid and it seemed to fix the problem but slowly it came back apparently I didn’t know how much fluid to put in the transmission or how to check the level , everywhere I went everyone would give me there opinion how and even had it checked by a technician and said I was a little over , but I still had my doubts on why the car felt the way it did , so one night I had to go to help out my gf that got stuck on the freeway, I drove the car cold , not sure if it had to do with what I’m about to tell you , but heading over for about 5 minutes I was getting to a higher speed and ready to put the OD drive and then it went to over drive and then lost completely speed out of no where it almost felt so smooth the way I lost it , and the car went in a limp mode , I would give it gas and it would only go like if I had it in low range gear and then it would only keep reving and I can feel the pressure of the transmission and only when I slowed down to a complete stop to relve the pressure then I could give it gas and go up to only about 10 to 20 miles and hour for only a few seconds before it felt heavy and didn’t want to keep going under pressure, I later on that day took the pan off and saw peace’s of a small plastic clear gear size was about an inch bigger than a quarter and was confused because the cars gears still shifted in all of them but the speed was the problem, I then checked the speedo cable gear and it was still there intact thinking it was probably what broke but I don’t have any knowledge of what kind of plastic gear that can possibly be inside this transmission. My theory is maybe peace’s left of a broken speedo cable that was probably replaced at some point of the cars life and left in there but how do i explain the lost of the cars ability to move forward and drive past 20 miles .
GREAT VIDEO!! I HAVE A 98 TOYOTA CAMRY V6, WHEN COLD IT TAKES LONG TIME TO GET INTO GEAR AND SLIPPS, BUT WHEN WARMED UP IT SHIFTS PERFECTLY I DONT KNOW WHAT TO DO I CHANGED OIL, FILTER AND GASKET.
@@luccianodfs6711 ok, so when you say it takes a long time to get into gear, does it not move forward until warm? or it just won't shift til it's warm?
@@GaryFerraro when i start it up like in the morning i put it on drive and it takes like 3 seconds to get into gear but as im driving 2nd and other gears slipp and rpms go above 2000 to try and engage, when its warmed up from driving a while it doesnt slip anymore drive like new
Outstanding info even though both of the A140Es at this house are still in very good condition. Any idea what caused that sprag clutch to fail? THANK YOU for the excellent vid.
Hello Gary. Thank you for the awesome video!! I have a 93 Camry with A140E trans. It's got 322K miles on it and lost reverse and overdrive. Drained fluid and saw much metal particle contamination. Is it rebuildable or should I look at getting another trans? Noticed in your video, you said the overdrive unit can blow up and cause this issue. Just uncertain whether or not to pursue a rebuild.
Sounds like the overdrive section of the trans is no good, reverse is also fed through the O/D section. The O/D section is located in the back, it's the rear cover of the trans. The drum usually goes out as well as the cover
Is this transmission similar to those found on the 1990 DX Camry 4cyl, in drive, and moving at walking speed the transmission acted as though the brakes are being jammed on, I suspect that the reverse section was engaging or something failing. Now the car will only roll forward in drive and all lower gear, but in reverse sound like gears grinding in a hellish manner.
gary, can i throw in redesigned valves/accumulator springs from sonnax, shafts, tight valvebody, upgraded friction discs and steels, big ol cooler off another trans, compushift controller and expect to reliably and automatically transmit maybe 325-350 torque?
Do you have to disassemble the transmission to disassemble the differential or can you disassemble the differential without disassembling the transmission? BTW thanks for the video I was looking for details on my transmission and couldn’t find one until I saw yours.
Gary, I have a 2010 Toyota Corolla with a U341E or F automatic. It's working fine, the fluids been changed once, but, is that a troublesome transmission down the road?
my 1993 2.2L camry XLE, shifts at its proper speeds but has minimal power when going uphill and feels like slipping when overtaking(trying to) I realized when i took a trip to the mountains. and due to it slipping in that trip, I turned my atf brown due to slipping. do you think an overhaul kit will solve this? This car is rare in mexico since we didnt have toyota until around 2004 so not many other camrys are around when i bought the car I changed the trans filter and I flushed 7 quarts of atf which was as dark brown as possible. and added new atf. but i think it was too late. my dad bought the car here in mexico, it was imported i think around 2006, and i can tell the previous owner gave no maintenance to the vehicle. all 4 shocks were crap. rear bearings were so loud.
Good morning from calfiornia...my 2001 camry 4 cyl has 0770 code...when i put in drive or reverse it delays 1-2 sexonds to actually move then it drives fine...shifts all the gears and reaches top speed...also...at a stop if there is an incline it will roll back a little...if i rev the engine it moves ..same in reverse...help please..do you think replacing both soloneids inaide the transmission will help? Thanks
@@GaryFerraro it does when cold or hot...when the engine is cold the rpms of the engine are higher as any car...it drives right away...but then no....i will go to the junkyard and get the 2 soloneids inside the fransmission and i wkll install them in my car
There should be aluminum plug in front, take that out, remove o/d section, have to take out transfer gear and what ever else is on the pinion shaft. After all is removed from shaft, there is a snap ring at the support housing for the pinion bearing, remove the snap ring and knock out from the front where the aluminum plug is
@@GaryFerraroI am starting a teardown of a A140E. I had watched this video a year ago and wished I had caught that little tidbit about breaking off the rusted stud end of the shift shaft. Fortunately the tranny I am working on was purchased for $100 and just as a learning experience. I think that nut could be removed without breaking but may take a little time. Not positive on that but I am going to try a couple things.
I am learning about the value of impact wrenches and how important it is to match the power of the wrench to the size of the job at hand. I started off with the hi powered Milwaukee 1/2" and proceeded to rip the head off a 17 mm rusted suspension bolt. I purchased a 3/8" 12 volt impact after I broke off 2 things on this trans. I originally was going for a 1/4" drive but was not available at the store. I think as long as the torque is below the capability of tearing the bolt or stud apart, it may actually remove the nut at least with a little heat and/or penetrate. Yes considered heat however given that there is the o ring right behind the nut that is risky unless you have access to those parts. From my own experience of working under neath my cars here in rust belt, none of the penetrating fluids are worth much unless applied over time. Sometimes even several days. And WD40 is not hi up on that list.
Hello Gary Is the A140 supposed to have lockup? I think mine never did (92 Camry). At a steady speed above 50MPH I had a higher rpm when I was on the throttle vs off the throttle like a 600rpm difference. Now I am comparing this to my other Toyota which was an 89 van with an Aisin A44DL. At speeds above 45MPH in O/D the converter would lock up (feels like a shift) rpm would decrease about 800 rpms and the rpms would stay the same whether I was on the throttle or off the throttle of course unless I pushed the accelerator to the floor to down shift back into 3rd from O/D or if vehicle speed dropped below 40MPH which the lockup would then disengage. I know they are completely different units but I assume testing for lockup would noticeably work the same
@@GaryFerraro could that be the inherent minute slippage of an auto? or the measuring/communicating of flexplate and torque converter in the computer cuz it can be hard to feel little slips
I think my A140L had a catastrophic failure yesterday. When I came off the highway at an exit the car was in overdrive and I let off the accelerator. When I let off the accelerator, the transmission seemed to drag the car to a hard stop and finally locked up the front wheels. I tried to shift the car to neutral during this sudden deceleration, but it didnt help at all. When the car skidded to a stop, I tried to shift it into drive and reverse. The car seems like it wants to move because I can feel the transmission engage in reverse and drive, but the car wont move. It wont even roll in neutral. No leaks, nor did anything spit out of the trans or the transaxle. Any ideas?
@@GaryFerraro I did recently change the fluid and filter in the tranny because it was acting up, e.g., occasional slips in reverse and first, delayed shifts. This was 8000 miles ago and it did great, except to delayed shifts at times.... I did take the plug loose on the diff and checked to make sure oil started seeping out, but I wasn't certain where the fill point was and nixed it. It almost feels like it's in the diff because when we winched it on the trailer (in neutral) the wheels started slowing spinning, against there will, and there was a definite noise. Almost like I put the car in park doing 70 miles an hour. I'm going to watch your video again on the A140, but are you able to comment more on the transaxel's commen failures?
@@GaryFerraro Update: I found a A140L in Yakima WA I'm gonna go get and swap. The used one I found has no torque converter. I'm going to use my old torque converter from the current fried A140L. Are familiar with what kinds of new seals I will need to do this swap (or seals where the axels go into transaxel, do those?), and any other tips on what to look for?
@@JuanRodriguez-rn6hc ok, then possible low/reverse clutch pack may be locked together, when this happens the clutch can not release so it's always on, so it will move backwards in neutral and bind-up in forward gears
I have a 99 Toyota camry and it shifts hard from first to 2nd and I put another transmission in and it won't shift to 3rd gear unless I let off the gas pedal. And it did the same thing with the other transmission. What could be the problem?
In most teardown videos for this trans people use a puller to get the pump out but I was able to get it out by screwing in two bolts that are the next size larger than than fastening bolts, gently tapping on the pump to loosen it, then literally just pulling it by each bolt and it basically just slid out. The pump holes are tapped with larger threads for precisely this purpose but you generally don't need a fancy tool to use them, just the 2 bolts and maybe a pry bar as used here.
correct
Hi Gary .! I have a 87 celica with this similar transmission, it had started to have problems one day after I had switched out the radiator that I had in the back yard and might of caught it with bad fluid in the cooler and then witch led to the transmission slipping in reverse at first very minor but then I noticed when I went to turn the car on and put in drive it would move but out of no were it would lose traction at a stop and then bounce back into traction , once then the car would drive fine , but during driving on the turns the car almost felt like it would stall and at some time at a stop it did , so following these problems I changed the filter and fluid and it seemed to fix the problem but slowly it came back apparently I didn’t know how much fluid to put in the transmission or how to check the level , everywhere I went everyone would give me there opinion how and even had it checked by a technician and said I was a little over , but I still had my doubts on why the car felt the way it did , so one night I had to go to help out my gf that got stuck on the freeway, I drove the car cold , not sure if it had to do with what I’m about to tell you , but heading over for about 5 minutes I was getting to a higher speed and ready to put the OD drive and then it went to over drive and then lost completely speed out of no where it almost felt so smooth the way I lost it , and the car went in a limp mode , I would give it gas and it would only go like if I had it in low range gear and then it would only keep reving and I can feel the pressure of the transmission and only when I slowed down to a complete stop to relve the pressure then I could give it gas and go up to only about 10 to 20 miles and hour for only a few seconds before it felt heavy and didn’t want to keep going under pressure, I later on that day took the pan off and saw peace’s of a small plastic clear gear size was about an inch bigger than a quarter and was confused because the cars gears still shifted in all of them but the speed was the problem, I then checked the speedo cable gear and it was still there intact thinking it was probably what broke but I don’t have any knowledge of what kind of plastic gear that can possibly be inside this transmission. My theory is maybe peace’s left of a broken speedo cable that was probably replaced at some point of the cars life and left in there but how do i explain the lost of the cars ability to move forward and drive past 20 miles .
great video having some problems with my toyota 3speed trans kickdown stopped working
excellent information .! I love to watch teardown videos .! thanks Gary.!
Thanks for watching
Another fine job Gary love watching
Thanks Joe
GREAT VIDEO!! I HAVE A 98 TOYOTA CAMRY V6, WHEN COLD IT TAKES LONG TIME TO GET INTO GEAR AND SLIPPS, BUT WHEN WARMED UP IT SHIFTS PERFECTLY I DONT KNOW WHAT TO DO I CHANGED OIL, FILTER AND GASKET.
How is reverse?
@@GaryFerraro its perfect always gets in quick just makes a clunk noise when enganging
@@luccianodfs6711 ok, so when you say it takes a long time to get into gear, does it not move forward until warm? or it just won't shift til it's warm?
@@GaryFerraro when i start it up like in the morning i put it on drive and it takes like 3 seconds to get into gear but as im driving 2nd and other gears slipp and rpms go above 2000 to try and engage, when its warmed up from driving a while it doesnt slip anymore drive like new
It does get in 2nd and other gears but it slipps goes over 2000 and then engages
Outstanding info even though both of the A140Es at this house are still in very good condition. Any idea what caused that sprag clutch to fail? THANK YOU for the excellent vid.
sprags are an old school way of clutching. i think most autos dont use sprags anymore
Hello Gary. Thank you for the awesome video!! I have a 93 Camry with A140E trans. It's got 322K miles on it and lost reverse and overdrive. Drained fluid and saw much metal particle contamination. Is it rebuildable or should I look at getting another trans? Noticed in your video, you said the overdrive unit can blow up and cause this issue. Just uncertain whether or not to pursue a rebuild.
Sounds like the overdrive section of the trans is no good, reverse is also fed through the O/D section. The O/D section is located in the back, it's the rear cover of the trans. The drum usually goes out as well as the cover
Is this transmission similar to those found on the 1990 DX Camry 4cyl, in drive, and moving at walking speed the transmission acted as though the brakes are being jammed on, I suspect that the reverse section was engaging or something failing. Now the car will only roll forward in drive and all lower gear, but in reverse sound like gears grinding in a hellish manner.
Yes, i would check the oil in the diff, that year was a separate fill, if ok, may have bad O/D section. Do you have reverse?
gary, can i throw in redesigned valves/accumulator springs from sonnax, shafts, tight valvebody, upgraded friction discs and steels, big ol cooler off another trans, compushift controller and expect to reliably and automatically transmit maybe 325-350 torque?
Are you talking about the A140 Transmission?
hello, is this gearbox the same as a130l, is the valve body and sonnax valve kit suitable for the TV unit, thank you
Do you have to disassemble the transmission to disassemble the differential or can you disassemble the differential without disassembling the transmission? BTW thanks for the video I was looking for details on my transmission and couldn’t find one until I saw yours.
if you just wanted to take the carrier out you can do that alone, the pinion, trans has to come apart
@ ok thank you
Gary, I have a 2010 Toyota Corolla with a U341E or F automatic. It's working fine, the fluids been changed once, but, is that a troublesome transmission down the road?
my 1993 2.2L camry XLE, shifts at its proper speeds but has minimal power when going uphill and feels like slipping when overtaking(trying to)
I realized when i took a trip to the mountains. and due to it slipping in that trip, I turned my atf brown due to slipping. do you think an overhaul kit will solve this?
This car is rare in mexico since we didnt have toyota until around 2004 so not many other camrys are around
when i bought the car I changed the trans filter and I flushed 7 quarts of atf which was as dark brown as possible. and added new atf. but i think it was too late.
my dad bought the car here in mexico, it was imported i think around 2006, and i can tell the previous owner gave no maintenance to the vehicle. all 4 shocks were crap. rear bearings were so loud.
Are you sure it's shifting on time? or does it seem to stack shift? That is shifting quickly and it's in 4th gear by 30 MPH
Good morning from calfiornia...my 2001 camry 4 cyl has 0770 code...when i put in drive or reverse it delays 1-2 sexonds to actually move then it drives fine...shifts all the gears and reaches top speed...also...at a stop if there is an incline it will roll back a little...if i rev the engine it moves ..same in reverse...help please..do you think replacing both soloneids inaide the transmission will help? Thanks
Does this cold and hot? 770 is basically a converter code
@@GaryFerraro it does when cold or hot...when the engine is cold the rpms of the engine are higher as any car...it drives right away...but then no....i will go to the junkyard and get the 2 soloneids inside the fransmission and i wkll install them in my car
If the valve body goes bad can it couse it to be stuck in forward gears. When you put it in reverse acts like park and neutral gose forward
No, you have a clutch pack locked together
Sir you have video for assembling
not on this transmission, sorry
Hey, nice channel and videos. Subbed. Was wondering if you had any info on removing the pinion gear and shaft on this transmission? Thanks.
There should be aluminum plug in front, take that out, remove o/d section, have to take out transfer gear and what ever else is on the pinion shaft. After all is removed from shaft, there is a snap ring at the support housing for the pinion bearing, remove the snap ring and knock out from the front where the aluminum plug is
@@GaryFerraro awesome, thank you! I think the plug bit it what I was missing.
@@mannonjones1018 ok, good deal
So how common is that neutral safety switch nut to snap the shaft? I need to replace mine cause it's failing. Am I about to face a full rebuild?
If it looks pretty rusty chances are it will snap off, Your talking about the 12mm nut?
@@GaryFerraroI am starting a teardown of a A140E. I had watched this video a year ago and wished I had caught that little tidbit about breaking off the rusted stud end of the shift shaft. Fortunately the tranny I am working on was purchased for $100 and just as a learning experience. I think that nut could be removed without breaking but may take a little time. Not positive on that but I am going to try a couple things.
Try some heat and maybe WD40@@dougmacqueen1679
I am learning about the value of impact wrenches and how important it is to match the power of the wrench to the size of the job at hand. I started off with the hi powered Milwaukee 1/2" and proceeded to rip the head off a 17 mm rusted suspension bolt. I purchased a 3/8" 12 volt impact after I broke off 2 things on this trans. I originally was going for a 1/4" drive but was not available at the store. I think as long as the torque is below the capability of tearing the bolt or stud apart, it may actually remove the nut at least with a little heat and/or penetrate. Yes considered heat however given that there is the o ring right behind the nut that is risky unless you have access to those parts. From my own experience of working under neath my cars here in rust belt, none of the penetrating fluids are worth much unless applied over time. Sometimes even several days. And WD40 is not hi up on that list.
Hello Gary Is the A140 supposed to have lockup? I think mine never did (92 Camry). At a steady speed above 50MPH I had a higher rpm when I was on the throttle vs off the throttle like a 600rpm difference. Now I am comparing this to my other Toyota which was an 89 van with an Aisin A44DL. At speeds above 45MPH in O/D the converter would lock up (feels like a shift) rpm would decrease about 800 rpms and the rpms would stay the same whether I was on the throttle or off the throttle of course unless I pushed the accelerator to the floor to down shift back into 3rd from O/D or if vehicle speed dropped below 40MPH which the lockup would then disengage. I know they are completely different units but I assume testing for lockup would noticeably work the same
It should have Lock-up yes, when lock-up is commanded on , should see a drop of about 2-300 rpm
@@GaryFerraro could that be the inherent minute slippage of an auto? or the measuring/communicating of flexplate and torque converter in the computer cuz it can be hard to feel little slips
I think my A140L had a catastrophic failure yesterday. When I came off the highway at an exit the car was in overdrive and I let off the accelerator. When I let off the accelerator, the transmission seemed to drag the car to a hard stop and finally locked up the front wheels. I tried to shift the car to neutral during this sudden deceleration, but it didnt help at all. When the car skidded to a stop, I tried to shift it into drive and reverse. The car seems like it wants to move because I can feel the transmission engage in reverse and drive, but the car wont move. It wont even roll in neutral. No leaks, nor did anything spit out of the trans or the transaxle. Any ideas?
Sounds like either the planetary gears are bad or your diff is no good. These diff's use a separate fill, has that ever been checked?
@@GaryFerraro I did recently change the fluid and filter in the tranny because it was acting up, e.g., occasional slips in reverse and first, delayed shifts. This was 8000 miles ago and it did great, except to delayed shifts at times.... I did take the plug loose on the diff and checked to make sure oil started seeping out, but I wasn't certain where the fill point was and nixed it. It almost feels like it's in the diff because when we winched it on the trailer (in neutral) the wheels started slowing spinning, against there will, and there was a definite noise. Almost like I put the car in park doing 70 miles an hour.
I'm going to watch your video again on the A140, but are you able to comment more on the transaxel's commen failures?
@@GaryFerraro Update: I found a A140L in Yakima WA I'm gonna go get and swap. The used one I found has no torque converter. I'm going to use my old torque converter from the current fried A140L. Are familiar with what kinds of new seals I will need to do this swap (or seals where the axels go into transaxel, do those?), and any other tips on what to look for?
@@bill2342 Do the axle seals for sure, check the condition of the fluid too. may also want to drop the pan and install new filter and pan gasket
Hi, can the differential be changed while the trans is still on the car?
I do not believe they can, would be very hard to get them out and installed too
Hi what can be the problem with my 2001 camry only shifts gear reverse doesnt go forward at all neither on d or1 n2
Forward clutch is probably no good, does the car move backwards in neutral by chance?
@@GaryFerraro it does move back when in neutral
@@JuanRodriguez-rn6hc ok, then possible low/reverse clutch pack may be locked together, when this happens the clutch can not release so it's always on, so it will move backwards in neutral and bind-up in forward gears
I have a 99 Toyota camry and it shifts hard from first to 2nd and I put another transmission in and it won't shift to 3rd gear unless I let off the gas pedal. And it did the same thing with the other transmission. What could be the problem?
Is there a throttle cable on the trans? Whats the engine size?
@@GaryFerraro Yes. The kickdown cable It's a 2.2 l engine.
@@kevon241 almost sounds like that cable is out of adjustment, have you tried to adjust the cable?
@@GaryFerraro No. How tight the cable should be
Does anyone know of a video showing how to replace the differential
To just do the carrier with the ring gear, take the side cover off, if the pinion needs to come out the trans has to come apart
Hi Gary, can I ask what diagnostic tool you use? Thanks
Michael Desouza Do you mean what scan tool I have?
Yes, is it a solus? Can you use it to manually activate solenoids? Thanks
Michael Desouza Yes it can. It has bidirectional controls
P0770 shift solenoid e? Please help
This could be a solenoid, front stator or pump bushing, also could be valvebody problem
Здравствуйте, я из России. Транс не едит вперёд буксует что может быть не исправно?
WHERE ARE YOU LOCATED?
In New York on Long Island. Are you in the New York Area?
Мини обратный мололточек кулл))