U151 Teardown
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video, i teardown a Toyota U151 5 speed. At the end of the video i have a tech tip on the 4 solenoids that i change on every overhaul when i rebuild this transmission. This one is for my friend Carlos in New Mexico, hope this helps bud.
Shout out to Gary for still replying on a 7 year old video.
Looking to import a MarkX 4wd from Japan and came here to ensure this wasn't a CVT type tranny. Awesome video. Thanks!
Less than 3 minutes in and you just answered the question that brought me here. Replaced a bad radiator only to find that the van wouldn't move after everything was done. Guessing water in the trans based on what you said. Will have to check in the morning. Great video!
Buen video amigo gracias por la paciencia y la enseñanza, saludos
A true expert! Thank you
Excellent video thanks for the tips .!
Definitely i will do my, gary thanks for sharing this big help and support o ever the phone
Your welcome, anytime
Nice job Gary!
Thank you
I am about to rebuild my Daughters 151. Nice job on the video. I am sure I will watch it again. I am retired from the business but I am sure I can skin this cat,
Im sure, not a bad trans to work on. Usually after rebuild a memory reset needs to be done, do you have a scan tool?
Thank you for this great video.
I'm having a problem with my 2004 Highlander 3.3 V6, AWD with the U151F transmission.
My wife was driving down the highway (she is a good driver) and I was asleep in the passenger seat. Suddenly there was a "Boom" which felt like she had driven through a pothole and the suspension bottomed out. But there was no pothole.
She carefully drove off at the next exit and there was another Bang as something hit something else. It felt like another pothole, but that section of highway does not have any potholes.
She carefully drove home (12 miles) on back streets.
The Highlander had trouble pulling away (making whirring noises) from red lights and a lot of trouble reversing into our driveway about 1 in 20 up grade, she had to rev it high before it would move.
When I inspected it the next day I found the rear right drive axle was gone; as in "Gone, it was not there". It had snapped off inside the outer CV boot. Only about three inches of axle shaft was still attached to the outer CV joint. All the rest was missing and simply not there any more. The missing part of the axle was probably out on the highway somewhere.
I replaced the axle with a new one but the transmission still does not respond well. I assume something is broken inside and I'll have to replace it.
QUESTION 1: Does anyone know if I can remove just the transmission by itself from the Highlander, or do I need to remove the entire engine and transmission as a single unit and then separate them after I have them out?
Question 2: I'm assuming that I need to replace the transmission. But I'd hate to do that and then find the problem was just with the control circuit, or something like that. Does anybody have any good diagnostic tests that I can try to prove one way or the other whether I need to pull out the transmission or not?
I have rebuilt a couple of GM transmissions and an old Toyota Corolla transmission but these cross-mounted engines are a real pain for trying to replace a transmission.
Thanks
Mike
so with the new axle in place, the car does not move? I would check the rear diff and Transfer case too. are all 4 tires exactly the same?
@@GaryFerraro Thank you Gary.
All tires are the same except for minor differences in tread wear but not amounting to more than about three mm of tread depth difference between the best and worst tires.
I have checked the rear diff. It turns nicely and easily with no noticeable noises.
Have not checked the transfer case yet.
The engine starts and runs normally. When I select Reverse or Drive I do not notice any harsh transmission noises.
The car is parked on a concrete driveway with a slight down slope forwards of about 1 in 20 - 1 in 30. I normally reverse it in up this gentle slope to park it. It used to be that if I reversed the car into the driveway, placed it into Park, turned the engine OFF, then took my foot off the brake it would roll forward slowly a few inches until the Park pawl engaged and stopped it. Now, in Neutral and the engine off it does not roll forwards down the slope.
If I put it into Drive with the engine at cold idle (around 50F) it starts to move forward then stops. I need to rev it up to somewhere around 2,000-2,500 RPM before it will move forward.
If, from stationary and with the engine at cold idle, I put it into Drive and allow it to move forwards a foot or so, then put it into Reverse it will move in Reverse under idle for about a foot then stop moving. I need to rev it to around 2,000 RPM or so to get it to move any further in Reverse. Under high revs it does move but very sluggishly as it would if was in soft sand.
I have the rear end up on jack stands at the moment, and the front tires chocked.
I have the transmission in Neutral. The Highlander has a bypass button that one can press to enable the gear selector to be moved out of Park without the key ON, and/or the engine running.
Tomorrow I will disconnect the rear drive shaft at the second universal joint behind the transfer case and see if I can get the drive shaft to turn by hand with the transmission in Neutral and the engine off.
Tomorrow I will also remove the transmission pan, and drain the ATF and the filter, and see what they look like. I'll also smell the ATF for any traces of a burned smell.
I will let you know what I find.
Thank you
Mike
PS. When I rebuilt the two GM THM 350 transmissions and the Corolla transmission about 35-40 years ago they all performed beautifully when I re-installed them back in their respective cars.
(I am a semi-retired mining engineer and a self-taught mechanic. I have a fairly good understanding of hydraulics and fluid mechanics)
@@michaelwalsh864 ok, let me know, just point of info, with the rear drive shaft removed the car may not move or hold in park, let me know what you find
@@GaryFerraro Hi Gary.
This is what I found.
And firstly. I had transmission in Neutral because I didn't want the Park pawl interfering with any movement.
Engine and ignition were off.
Front wheels were on the ground and chocked.
Rear end - observations and symptoms.
I raised the left rear tire so that it was clear of the ground. I had the car supported on a jack stand. I left the right rear tire on the ground to provide frictional resistance to rotation. I set about disconnecting the rear drive shaft at the second universal joint (UJ) behind the transfer case. It was a struggle. The four UJ bolts had been done up with green loctite and were very difficult to remove. One of the top UJ bolts was nearly impossible to get moving, or get a wrench on, and the drive shaft would not rotate to get it into a more favorable position. I grabbed the left rear tire and tried to rotate it by hand but it would not move. I then jerked it forwards as hard as I could by hand so that the momentum of the tire would jerk on the drive shaft and rotate it a little each time. After about 6-8 jerks the drive shaft had rotated about 180 degrees so I could get to the UJ last bolt and undo it. I disconnected the drive shaft. The rear part of the shaft which goes through the rear diff to the rear tires rotated easily and smoothly, and made the left rear tire, which was off the ground, rotate easily.
The front portion of the drive shaft that went into the transfer case would not move. I had put about 80 N.m (Newton,metres) of torque (about 60 ft.lbs) on it while I was trying to undo the UJ bolts but the shaft going into the transfer case did not rotate.
I then re-connected the UJ and lowered both rear tires to the ground and chocked them.
Front end.
Transmission still in Neutral. Engine off.
I raised the front end a little and supported most of the weight on jack stands. The right front tire had enough ground contact to provide frictional resistance to rotation. I raised the left front tire just clear of the ground. It rotated very easily by hand. Quite different from the rear.
Transmission.
I drained the ATF and took off the transmission pan.
The ATF was quite thick (high viscosity) like an SAE 40W or 50W oil. It was dark and discolored but it did NOT have a burned smell when I rubbed it between my fingers.
The pan magnet had some very fine metal fragments on it but none were big enough to feel. I estimate most fragments were smaller than about 50 microns. There appeared to be less than about 1 cc in volume of particles on the magnet.
The pan itself was quite clean. There were no pieces of metal or rubber (o-rings, seals etc) in the bottom of the pan.
That was it for today. The sun was going down and I'd bashed my head on something sharp under the car and drawn a little blood. I use gloves to protect my hands from cuts and bruises but heads under cars are a little harder to protect. (Still smiling though)
Mike
Many thanks for the video Gary and for sharing knowledge.
Thanks, Gary! I'll watch it probably 10 times, because I'll be repairing U151.
ok sounds good, what is the problem with the trans?
@@GaryFerraro @Gary Ferraro There is no reverse. Based on your video, I hope to repair the problem w/o removing transmission. It looks like you removed about 80% of all parts from left cover and oil pan. I found U140 atsg manual at home +Toyota service manual+ your great video should help. Do I have a chance repairing reverse from left side and bottom? Thanks.
PS. I consider transmission guys to be smartest auto mechanics, nothing in a car is more complicated that auto transmission.
@@car5car5 Does the car by chance move forward in neutral?
@@GaryFerraro I will check all forward gears and drive it tomorrow. The only thing I did when I bought it, I drove it a few yards to load on my tow dolly.
My car was flare shifting 2-3rd for a while last week on the highway it just felt like it neutral up stopped it drove off then neutral in 3rd gear any idea what could cause that?@@GaryFerraro
Hi Garry. Question about lockup selenoid and lockup. I hope you can help me.
During drive when I remove a foot from gas pedal I hear a whirling noise. I checked that usually it happened when my speed is about 35mph (more or less), pedal gas is released, transmission is in 4 gear, lock-up selenoid is ON but ECU reports that lock-up indicator is OFF. When I gently press on gas pedal, lock-up selenoid became OFF and noise disappear.
I've heard that U151 attach lockup during decceleration on 4 gear.
Could it be a torque converter or lock-up selenoid ?
ECU doesn't report any error yet.
Thanks for your help.
usually when you release the gas the converter comes off, if the converter does not release on downshifts when coming to a stop the engine will stall. Are you sure your not hearing a diff noise?
@@GaryFerraroThanks for your quick response. I'm sure not from rear diff. I have FWD.
hi gary i am in process of rebuilding u250e its flaring from two to three shift what do you do with the valve body and is it neccessary to change all the bonding piston
Me faltaba una pista del O/D pero me quedé hasta el final gracias creo que soy de los pocos mexicanos que te ve jaja saludos colega
Translation
Awesome job
Thanks
How do you remember how all these transmission parts and be able yo put them back together 🤔
Doing this a long time
Any idea whata wrong with this issue? I have to warm up engine at least 20 mins before car moves forward. Which part do I need to replace? New atf type iv replaced.
I think when you mentioned, while removing the forward clutch, is my problem.
How is reverse? Any delay? any codes present?
@@GaryFerraro no codes, went to Toyota dealer to have dtc check.
No delays in shifting. When the engine gets hot, at first when you put it in drive, you will have to rev higher, car will move forward, slips a bit then after that car will drive normally already, no problem in delay or shifting problems anymore even on high speeds. Reverse rearward is okay even when cold engine or hot engine.
I also noticed, that even its hot after you drive a while, and if you get stucked in traffic stationary for 10 mins, it will slide but will move forward and everything goes to normal again.
Which part do I only need to change?
Car model by the way is a 2004 camry with 1mz engine 3.0 engine. 5 speed. Is it also considered a u250e?
If reverse is ok, may have a problem with the forward or C1 clutch, The underdrive brake clutch is on in drive but it is also on in reverse so if reverse is ok, I would think that clutch is ok
@@GaryFerraro okay will take note of that. Will replace that forward or c1 clutch just to be sure. Many thanks again!!!
thanks for ur knowledge
Thanks for watching
Tony Mikesell
camry 2007 transmission clutch no3 where is the location of that sensor please sent a picture or diagram
What is your engine size, there are different transmissions
Gary Ferraro
ok tomoro
ok
After watching i dont understand why sienna will not move with rear driveshaft out?
I was surprised to find this video, Thank you for posting. I have this transmission in my 2004 Sienna. I have no reverse, I had 1-3rd forward and today after sitting for a month only had 1st forward, 147000 seems young for major failure. Could this be a valve body issue? Solenoids?
Bottom (oil pan, filter) 25.00. Valve body 26.15
Hi I have a U250E transmission with a sluggish movement on reverse. Each time I tried to pedal harder on reverse it acts like there is no power to propel the vehicle and at this point check engine light pops up with a p0500 code( vehicle speed sensor) any pointer to the right direction would be greatly appreciated
كيف لي أن أعرف حساس النمرة الثالثة في الجير تايوتا 2007 وحساس الفورس موتر كيف لي ان أعرف مكانهم
وكيف أعرف أن يكون جيد أو سيئ
ولك الشكر
? Translation
أنا لا أجيد اللغة الإنجليزية ؟
????
Gary Ferraro
camry 4cylinder 2008
pls sent in to my watsup
00966502124131
أبو علاء مطر translation:
how to know the third gear sensor in toyota transmission 2007 and location .
I have some questions that hopefully you can answer. I am currently dealing with a 2006 Sienna with the U151F AWD and experiencing a grinding noise when in drive or reverse that I suspect coming from the transfer case. I have pulled the housing off of the rear of the transfer case and the output shaft seems to be loose/wobbly which I feel confirms a little more of this being a transfer case issue. My questions are, if I pull the CV shafts from both sides, will the transmission still engage the transfer case when I turn it on and put it in gear to see if the grinding continues or would I need to completely remove the transfer case? And would you say this is an OK way to troubleshoot the problem through process of elimination or could I possibly cause damage to the transmission? (assuming there is none at the moment)
Just to confirm, you only hear the noise while moving? All tires exactly the same size and model?
@@GaryFerraro Thanks for the quick response! Yes only when moving and the tires are the same. Here is a little more of the story.
The vehicle stopped being able to move like something had locked up. The driveshaft to the rear tires was removed and that allowed for the vehicle to roll. The driveshaft was reinstalled and then the car was able to move in drive or reverse but now with the grinding noise. Lifted all four tires and removed the driveshaft again to eliminate the rear differential but still getting the grinding noise. Grinding happens in drive or reverse but not in neutral. Grinding also stops when brakes are applied and the tires stop. I pulled drain plug to the transfer case and a very tiny amount of gear oil came out. Like just enough to fill the palm of your hand. The drain plug also had a fat chunk of oily metal shavings caked on it. I pulled the rear housing to the transfer case and was able to shake the output shaft a bit. It's not a super crazy amount but it is enough to where I know that something is not right in there. So now I am continuing with process of elimination and want to know if it is going to tell me anything by removing the cv axles and putting it into drive or if I just need to remove the whole transfer case and run the transmission really quick to listen for grinding. I just dont know if I can potentially mess up the transmission by running it with the transfer case removed. I'm just assuming that the transmission is ok at this point. I understand that I will probably lose some tranny fluid when I run the transmission with the transfer case removed but it will only be for a few seconds to listen for grinding since the grinding happens as soon as the tires are moving. Hope this info helps you to understand where I am at with it right now. Thanks again for your time!
Would you recommend pulling out the solenoids and cleaning them when I drop the pan and change filter and refill? Just as preventative maintenance. Thank you for the awesome video.
Valvebody has to come down to get the solenoids out, if shifting ok i would leave them
@@GaryFerraro I guess if it ain't broke...thank for the reply.
@@GaryFerrarocan solenoids prevent the transmission from shifting above 2nd gear?
@@matden5595 if mechanically bad it can
@@GaryFerraro am clueless now having 2-3 flare shifts about a month now only sometimes 2 days ago vehicle felt like it neutral on the high way pulled off drove off again went through 1st 2nd then neutrals when it should go in 3rd any ideas?
Great tear down! I’m thinking about replacing some of the solenoids on a Highlander with the U151. Anyone know if can I drop the valve body with the subframe in place?
you should be able to, sometimes the pan bolts can be a bit of a pain but it is doable
Can a U151E be modified to fit a transfer case?
Hi Gary, 2006 Toyota sienna with U151e transmission showing p2716 on a scan tool, I troubleshoot and fix the wiring and the van shifts gear 1 and 2 very nice but 3,4,5 don't seem to have strength to pull the car, the RPM will increased but no speed increase, what should I do ?
2716 is usually a computer, did the code return?
@@GaryFerraro no it didn't return
that ATF looks real dark and dirty.im sure dirty atf isn't good for the solenoids.
Hi Gary, I have a question for you. I’m doing an engine swap on an ‘09 Highlander AWD. I mistakenly removed the nuts and started to pry apart the transfer case thinking it was part of the transmission/bell housing connection. You can see the one you removed in the background of your video. Should I completely separate it and reapply the pink RTV (also in your video) which goes around the rubber o-ring or do you think I can get away with just bolting it back together? In researching this, I also came across a TSB from Toyota about these transfer cases and inner seal/vent leak. In reading that, I saw reference to the RTV and seal I mentioned above. I only stumbled across this in researching my situation and deciding whether I should dig deeper..... thanks.
You can probably get away with just bolting it back together, how does the RTV look?, is it still intact?
Gary, thanks for the reply. I can’t really see it clearly, the flange is separated about 1/4” and then I stopped. If I understand correctly, the RTV doesn’t really seal anything unless that o-ring fails. Is that your understanding as well?
@@tombiondi9969 correct
Hi Gary, thanks for posting this. Does your shop see alot of the U151 transmission? Considering it was used for over 10 model years from 04 to 13.
Highlander V6, Camry V6, Sienna, RAV4 V6 and others.
Honestly, not that much, funny thing is i just did 3 back to back. Sometimes customer declines overhaul, they can get a bit pricey
Were they all van transmissions?
Thanks for the info! I have this transmission in my RAV4.
Quick question can they bolt up on all platforms or they are only the same internally?
Hey Gary, I disassembled my 2006 rx300 and the back housing that connects to the direct clutch pack was worn out at the surface before the seals. The direct clutch pack was burnt. The car couldn't hold gear and was always downshifting. Any idea what could cause that or is it just a natural degradation issue on those transmissions? Also, after I replaced the clutch pack, the car drives better but it hesitates from stationary. Anything else I need to look out for? Thank you
Back cover probably just worn out, i had to change a few
Hi Gary, please where is reverse fibre located in u151e transmission?
Low/Reverse clutch, that like in the middle of the case, to get access to it, the rear cover has to come of
@@GaryFerraro thank you for quick response,you're great man
How much does it cost to rebuild a 2006 RX330 transmission?
Got a 2005 rx330 that needs a trans rebuild soon. It is slipping all gears especially the first gears and also when downshifting. 140,000 miles.. I drained the trans fluid 7 times, maybe I should NOT have. How long can it go slipping and hard shifting, can anything help? I refilled with maxlife synthetic first couple dumps, then to aisin t4 for 3-4 drains, then actually back to maxlife last couple drains (it seemed to shift marginally better w maxlife) aamco says the TC is shuddering/going out and spreading metal throughout the system, eating itself up.. they won't change the filter, says it won't help..? i am seeing tiny metal particulate in every drain. any recommendations? It's 5k for a rebuild!
Not to mention the timing belt..
It's u151e. Also what is more reliable when checking the dipstick, cold or hot?? I have checked the dipstick probably a thousand times and the hot parameter always has weird inconsistent readings (ie low then overfull then midway then overfull then overfull then low) but cold is always consistent, however in actuality I dont know what the more accurate level is to judge by, the cold or hot level?? It reads just under the low level when cold (bad territory?) However it also reads midway and full when hot...? I don't want to overfill either, so...?
@@mandarinmelonberry946 They should be checked hot, look at both sides of the stick and always go with the lower side, that is the true reading. 5K thats too much for that trans. Where are you located?
Hi Gary thanks for the quick reply you're awesome man! I'm in Florida, Pensacola. A couple shops along with the dealership keep quoting me 4-5k for a used transmission/rebuild (basically for parts and labor- they say it's 16 hours labor). I have found some transmissions online for about 2k (I want to order the transmission myself so they don't rip me off on that part). I cant install it myself, the worst thing I've done is a clutch on a beetle.. not about to tackle this! In your opinion is this 2005 RX330 2wd worth the cost of a new tranny AND timing belt??(according to local mechanics about 6k for both repairs) I ask because the engine is a 3mzfe with no apparent problems and hopefully half its life left(?)(145,000 miles.. I heard they can run 300,000 pretty easy?) The other consideration is its 17 years old, but only averaged
Hey Gary also would you recommend going with a used lower mileage transmission, shop rebuild, factory rebuild, etc?
Hey Gary, I have a question. The transmission for my 2006 Toyota Avalon is acting up. Only shifting into reverse. It sometimes shifts into drive. Usually when I start it cold. It used to shift into drive, but it would do so extremely harsh way and make a loud noise and you would feel it move back a little. I did a few transmission fluid flushes and filter changes and the fluid was black and had a burnt smell to it.
It's the U151E, but I'm not sure if I was to replace the whole transmission, what cars I can take the transmission from. Would you be able to help me find which cars would have transmissions I can use for my 06 Avalon. 5 speed automatic. Floor shift. U151E. I'm not sure if other cars have the same transmission.
It gave me the codes p0776 p0746
@@maxp3273 These are mechanical codes, usually means internal problem. There are other cars that use this trans like the sienna but i'm not sure what will work, what you need to do is if you want to put a used transmission in, call a yard with your vin number, they should be able to tell you what will fit
Hello, not sure if you can give me some insight or not but hear goes. I have an 04 Toyota Highlander awd. There is a bearing noise while driving. It is definitely in the trans. This noise will come and go as you load the left front side of the vehicle. It will also stop if you hold the LF wheel still (on a lift while in drive) I'm currently suspecting the carrier bearing for the differential in the trans. Also plan on replacing the support bearing for the center differential. U151f trans.
Al H Are you sure it's not a wheel bearing. If it were a diff bearing inside the trans the noise would not change. Sounds like a wheel bearing. Check both left and right side
Gary Ferraro
I have checked both front bearings. A stethoscope puts the noise in either the trans or front transfer case. I should add I am a 10 year toyota master tech. I have never had one like this.
Any chance you have any koyo RNU070824-1 bearings laying around? Toyota has discontinued the bearing.
I do not have any, but where are you located? These are the bearings on the diff?
Gary Ferraro no it's a support bearing for the under drive. It stays in the bell housing cover. This bearing has been discontinued by toyota.
I am in southern pa.
Another question. Should the half shaft that runs the transfer case (the part in the differential, in the trans) be notchy when turned or smooth?
،،Great ..thanks.
Thank you
Auto transmission U151 probably 4x4 and U151E FWD it is all same transmission without converter 4x4 yes or no ? For me look same but outside only 4x4 part is added to other yes or no?
No different, the final drives are different,has extra shaft, right side axle, axle seal is different, internals should be the same
u151 sienna 2.3 shift clutch get burned I changed it 2 or 3 times and when I drive it again get burned so sir please reply me how I can fix it please I request you sir please help please reply
first, do you have a scan tool to reset shift adapts. If that did not work, the problem most likely are the solenoids, you would have to change the SL1, SL2, SL3 and SLT solenoids and you would still have to reset shift adapts
What was the milage?
Sir what are the functions of those sensors
Fed back to the computer so it knows when to fire the solenoids and when to shift the car
hi gary i have 2009 toyota camry u250e the trans is not shifting after inner cv axel replaced
Not shifting as in failsafe? any codes? or is it stuck in first gear? anything else done other than axle?
Gary Ferraro I guess the CV was replaced when the trans was still not at room temperature... That problem is perculiar to the trans
Thanks for this Video, Question? Is it necessary to change trans. fluid when its fully cold.
Sure, you can change the fluid cold, when its done just check it at operating temp. What kind of car are you thinking about servicing?
Hi, thanks i have Chevy caprice 2008, one mechanic told me you have to keep the vehicle with me till trans. is fully cold because if i change the oil when trans hot it may affect the trans,ex.clutches or any thing else..
The only thing that may happen is he may get burned by the hot fluid, nothing will happen to the trans
Thanks Boss
Hi.. great informational video. Thank you! My question is My van has a transmission 01A/151E. 01A is the Axle code. Van is a fwd. is it easy to swap it with a 05A or any other 151E with different Axle type. In my humble understanding, being very novice, but inclined, Ill have to change the axle input from the transmission case.. is it right? Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Gul Engr ok so you have an issue with an axle trans is ok?
Yes, its slipping (when I accelerate from stop sign engine revs but van doesnt move for two three seconds) and I need to replace it. I was looking for compatible transmissions and came across this axle code thingy.
Apparently its a known issue of transmission failure for 2008 model sienna. So I am hunting for a transmission to swap. I found out Rav4 2006-12 fwd v6 has same (u151e) but different axle code. (05A). I am eyeing at it since much cheaper and less miles on it. Google failed me for the answer. 😊
Gul Engr you really need to go by the vin number to find a replacement unit
Got it..Thanks.
On a separate note, is it possible to pull the transmission only while leaving engine inside?
Hi Gary,
How do you remove the Park/Neutral safety sensor off the U151?
There is a center nut and one or two bolts on the outside of the switch, then carefully get behind and give a little pry, sometimes can be very tight a little frozen, can also spray WD40 to try to loosen it up
@@GaryFerraro Thanks for the information. I have tried the Blaster with pry bar on it and it didn't bulge out. I will need to try again.
@@hakeemsule6543 They can get frozen in there, sometimes i take out the rod with the switch still on it(easy on the bench). maybe pry on each side evenly see if it will move
Thanks so much for the update. I was thinking about doing that, your update confirm I'm on the right direction. Thanks for sharing your experiences and knowledge!
Gary do you replace the solenoid on u660e as well and
Very big thanks to you gary
Are you working with a 4 cylinder or a 6 cylinder?
Gary Ferraro 6 cylinder its a 2007 lexus es350
The 6 cylinder transmissions, the cases go bad where the center bearing rides, the ones i had, the damage was bad, it would cost to much to rebuild so i got a low mileage unit, i actually never rebuilt one yet.
Gary, I have my transmission apart, trying to find out which solenoids to replace. The van threw a code P0776, and the ones that are located on the valve body ohm out to just under 13 ohms, and the others ohm out to 5.5 ohms.
Do you open the valve body, at all? Some of the spring loaded shafts are sticky.
Any help would be appreciated.
What is the definition of code P0776
What is the year, make and model of the car?
It is a 2004 Toyota Sienna.
..."Solenoid B" problem. I can get the exact definition later today.
The code is Solenoid B performance, this is a mechanical code, how is the car shifting up through the gears, any slipping or flaring?
Hi gary what is the diference between u250e or u241e is the direct drum and the clutch is the same
The 250 is a 5 speed tans, the U241 is a 4 speed trans, parts are not the same
Gary Ferraro how about u150e and u140e
same deal, U150 is a 5 speed and the U140 is a 4 speed(the u140 transmissions geartrains always go bad) 2 different units
Gary Ferraro why the direct clutch c0 always go bad in these unit
These units have solenoid issues, i always change the SL1, 2 and 3 solenoid as well as the SLT solenoid, the solenoid may be mechanically bad causing the clutch not to fully disengage the clutch will drag and burn out
transtar has that direct piston 85bucks
Thanks for the tip. i going to ask my rep tomorrow about, may have another to do.
hello. i have a car Harier 2007 engine: 2GR-FE 3456ml.
Trans: U151E-03A.
Problem: When start the car is moving normal. After 20-30 minute when oil boiled, moving like small jump.
Please help me what is the problem in my car? i was change disk and computer engine control. now i think problem for main control.
Ok, so would you say the car moves when cold and stops moving when hot?
With the 4 solenoids you change, do you happen to have the part numbers?
I do not sorry, i purchase the OE solenoids through my supplier. The solenoids arer SL1, SL2, SL3 and SLT(pressure control)
Hi sir
Hello, what transmission problem are you having?
SK, Your post did not show, you can e-mail me gsferraro@yahoo.com
Plz help me
why you don't rebuild just teardown .
Its very hard to do that, shop is always busy, sometimes it takes me 2 days yo rebuild a trans, but i will keep that in mind, thanks for watching
Wow that u151f is piece of sheid diff is whining from factory as a new ,toyota forgot about honing that part.Bye Toyota hello Chevy Volt.
Hi Gary. I have a question. My 2006 Toyota Avalon is having a 2-3 and 3-4 shift flare that gets worse when the transmission gets hot. The 3-4 shift flare is especially bad when the transmission gets hot. I have replaced the valve body with a remanufactured unit and have replaced all solenoids with new ones. I also did a shift adapt reset but the problem is still present. Do you have any idea what I could do. The car does not give any trouble codes. Thanks
my sienna 2006 3.3 dose that as well, any ideas? any solutions? thanks
My Lexus did that for about now it won't shift pass 2nd gear
Hi I have a U250E transmission with a sluggish movement on reverse. Each time I tried to pedal harder on reverse it acts like there is no power to propel the vehicle and at this point check engine light pops up with a p0500 code( vehicle speed sensor) any pointer to the right direction would be greatly appreciated
Does it seem like it's binding up?
@@GaryFerraro I really do not know what you mean by binding up but do you mean like it freezes.what I really do mean is it engages in reverse but when you try to move on reverse it’s sluggish and even doesn’t want to go uphill. No force to propel the vehicle
@@mayowaodus6310 Does the engine race up and the car not move that great in reverse?
@@GaryFerraro yes that’s what I meant. Doesn’t move that great on reverse
@@mayowaodus6310 So it slipping in reverse, that is a mechanical problem, may have a damaged clutch pack
What was the milage?
Not Sure, sorry
@@GaryFerraroAny ways to contact you have a few questions