Hey man! Just wanted to say thank you for the simple and thorough tutorial. Just finished installing the Polk sub in my own SFP ISF after my ML Sub blew and couldn’t be more grateful for your video, Thanks again and enjoy your F brother!!!!
Hey, thanks very much brother! It's great to get some positive feedback. I always like to post random videos about hacks I've found or things I'm fixing in the hope someone, somewhere might find them useful. It always gives me a buzz to find out that people appreciate them. Enjoy your F too. They're phenomenal vehicles.
Hello! My IS350 2007 speakers are all blown. There is sound coming out of the speakers but they need to be replaced. It would be really helpful if you could tell me the size or any other details if you know about them? Thank You!
Hey, sorry I missed your comment, I'm guessing you've probably gotten your problem solved at this point, but just for anyone who might discover this comment in the future, here's a link to a page showing the speaker configurations on a 2014 IS, for both types of system. Even though it's a 2014, I don't think any of the configurations will have changed in that period: www.clublexus.com/forums/is-3rd-gen-2014-present/875986-is350-speaker-sizes.html
can you recommend a sub for 2015 Gs350 with ML ? mine makes a popping noise/sounds muddy . i heard that’s a regular thing with the ML subs in the Gs350’s, so want to swap if possible .
@@arjunt973 I imagine they're all the same impedance, but you'd really have to check with a multimeter. I think the GS350 stock sub is actually 6 Ohm. I'm sorry I can't be much help there as I've only done this to my car and I haven't worked on any other Lexus. Good luck though, post a reply in here if you find a good solution so others can learn
My sub was already disconnected when I got the car, but if you just cut those two cables you see me soldering, that will disconnect the sub from your system. If you do this, make sure you DON'T snip it close to the connector, leave at least 5cm. That way, when you finally come to wire in something new, you can just splice into the wire like you see me do here, if you cut it too close to the connector you won't leave yourself any room to work later on.
No, definitely not. It works as a good replacement for the stock sub and it sounds nice and balanced. It is not going to be a window rattler. For anything more than "good enough" you're going to need to get yourself a separate amp to drive it. And the Polk sub here will definitely be up to the task: it's underutilized in this application and can do a lot more than what the stock amp is asking of it.
Sure, I could do that. I've also added a few "quality of life" things to my setup, which were supposed to tide me over until I bought a Grom VLine piggyback system... but, haha, my jury-rigged bluetooth setup works well enough that I might just keep it as is. What sorts of things would you like to see in the video?
I think it would work, for sure. But I don't know if you'll get much tangible benefit from a bigger cone in this instance. That said, the 12" is another dB more sensitive and is rated for a slightly bassier 26Hz vs the 28Hz of the 10". So all in all, the specs are slightly better than the one I have in my car. Of course the other thing about the larger speaker is the aesthetics, it just looks cooler when you open the trunk. For me, I actually like to open the ski port in my car and have the sub poking through into the cabin, just because I think it looks really cool. But in my case, the 10 is just ever so slightly too big - an 8 probably would have looked a bit better. I still love how it looks though! But to answer your question, yes I definitely think it would work. The only considerations are really space, and whether the additional cost for the 12 is worth it for you. I'm genuinely curious, I'd love to be able to hear them side by side in the same car and see what the difference is! Anyway, if that's the speaker you want, I say go for it! Remember to drop in and let me know how you went, and how you think it sounds when you've installed it. Good luck! Edit: with all of the above said though, just be sure to set your expectations realistically. At the end of the day it's still a factory amplifier that's driving the speaker, so even with a bigger speaker, it still isn't going to be a window rattler. But as a replacement for a blown sub and to complement the existing system, I can tell you it sounds really good.
Appreciate your input. Yeah I’m not expecting a window shaker especially from the factory amp. Just want better sound, I currently have a 8’ pioneer sub which I rewired just like you did. It cleaned up some how, before the speakers would cut out after 40 in volume, that problem went away. Maybe I had a short some where and after splicing into the main subwoofer lines it fixed the issue. I’m going to see if the little tricks to improve the bass would help, I purchased a “vented” 12’ subwoofer box supposedly running a “vented” box produces louder bass and its more efficient and doesn’t require as much amp power. I’ll keep you posted with the results. Again, thank you for your awesome research and functional expertise! 🙂👍
Night and day difference. Coming from an 8’ subwoofer. Using a vented box also made a drastic change with the 12’ subwoofer. My stereo system is perfect now. Appreciate all your info!
@@junetoroc wow, really?! That's amazing! Thanks for getting back to me. Ha ha, I'm super tempted to look at a 12 now 😂. But yeah, it's nice to get the bass back isn't it. Hope you have many hours of great listening.
Good question! Yes, you're going to want to cut the wires to the old sub. You don't need to physically remove the sub, snipping the wires is sufficient. Just make doubly sure you're snipping the right ones! You see me splicing into the wires in the video because someone had already removed the sub from my car and I figured it would be easier to return things to "factory" when I sell it if I just spliced in - so the factory cables are still there if someone wanted to put a factory sub back in one day and all I have to do is snip off my cable. But in your case if the sub is still there, I would just snip those cables and solder new ones on directly. When you do this, make sure you snip the wires a good distance away from the connector - you'll thank yourself in the future when you come to want to work on it again: you'll have enough left over wire and won't have to replace the connector!
@@IainFraser81 Thank you for your help! Just installed it today! Sounds great! Super easy to install. I thought I had to remove everything until I saw your video! Thanks again!
@@jbcube2997 thanks for the feedback, I'm genuinely really happy that you got a good result that you're happy with! Three months later and I'm still really happy with mine too. Which sub did you end up buying?
@@IainFraser81 I bought the same sub the Polk MM1 10”. Except I bought a different sub box. I think it’s called Bbox pro it’s a cheap sub box and it’s slim. I wanted more space in the back.
@@jbcube2997 mine is some generic no-name thing. I rushed around to my local car stereo shop to buy it when I realised the box I had lying around in my garage was for a 12". Super cheap, but does the job.
Hey since u have a lexus with a mark levinson like me, do you know how i could go about installing an audio control lc2i so that i can equip a new amp so that i can effectively power new aftermarket speakers in the entire car as well as an aftermarket amp while still keeping the full functionality tha the ML amp provides? I have an 2008 GS 350
Hmm, that's a bit beyond my knowledge, but I think the system you're talking about takes a speaker level input and converts it to line level for input into an aftermarket amplifier, right? I don't know for sure, but you might not need one. As your car already has a Mark Levinson amp, you may be able to just piggyback off the factory line inputs. Again, I don't know for sure, but I imagine you could splice into those cables and solder on some RCAs that you could plug straight into your aftermarket amp. You'd need to talk to an installer or someone who knows more than me though - I haven't researched this.
I have a 8inch sub but it's very quite. Its a 4ohm dvc wired to 8ohms i have a lexus is 2006 with Ml system. I removed old sub as it was cracking and died . Replaved it directly with yhe old connector wired to the boot with new sub in a box how ever sub is underwhelming quite. It is a ds18 8inch with 86db 150rms
Could you get a second sub of the same type and wire it in series? That would give you 8 ohms. I'm not sure if it would be any louder though - perhaps you could borrow another 4 ohm from a friend or something and see if it improves at all. Otherwise you'll need to get a dedicated amplifier and speaker-to-line-level converter to drive your 4 ohm sub.
@@IainFraser81 wait in a series that would become 4ohms im I wrong. Sub is 4ohms dvc wired parallel ( can't remember actual name but the wiring that makes it 8ohms)
Thank you and also how’s the stock amp holding up? I’m planing on doing this to my 2009 lexus IS 350 with ML. My oem subwoofer has completely blown lol
@@reesehardesty4530 yeah, just fine actually, I haven't had an issue with it. I am considering getting a dedicated amp for it though... I kind of want a bit more bass
Hi. I have a Lexus GS 430 MK3 with Mark Levinson audio. I'm looking for a woofer replacement. Do you recommend this Polk audio woofer? plays better? is not a game more enjoyable than the original ML woofer? Does the original ML amplifier handle the POLK AUDIO loudspeaker without any problems?
I actually really like it. Unfortunately I can't compare it to the factory Mark Levinson sub because it was already removed from my car when I bought it. However, the Polk is just great. I'd say with a setup like mine, you don't even need to keep the ski port open; my kids closed it the other day and I didn't notice. I've been running this sub now for two months without any issues so the amp seems capable of driving it. As I said in the video, you're not going to rattle anyone's windows with this setup, but it's loud enough to complement the system well and I like how it sounds. If you wanted to do this yourself, I'd do some research to make sure the sub on your GS430 is also 8 ohms. If you still have the sub, you can check this with a multimeter. I had a quick look at what your amp looks at online and you appear to have the same connectors, so I wouldn't be surprised if the wiring is exactly the same.
All the speakers in the car. In the video, I show you the specific wires that control the subwoofer, but the wiring diagram in the description shows all of them
@@IainFraser81 Ahh okay, do you know how many watts the subwoofer can handle? I am looking to install a 12 inch sub but not sure if I need to purchase a whole new amp.
@@CencuGaming I'm not sure how many Watts the factory amp can drive, but it's no beast by any means. The factory sub is quite small and I think it was designed to add some richness and depth to the system, without intending to be a window rattler for bass heavy music. As such, rather than looking at the wattage of the sub or it's diameter, you should be looking for the highest sensitivity 8 ohm sub you can buy. The sensitivity rating is a measure of how efficiently the speaker can convert the signal into sound. A more sensitive subwoofer will be louder for the same input power. My subwoofer has a sensitivity of 86dB, the next model down is 85dB. Decibels are measured on a logarithmic scale, so that 1dB difference is actually quite significant. I've linked to both models in the video description. So if you want to use the factory amp, here's what you need: 8 ohms, high efficiency/sensitivity (86dB or better). Diameter and rated wattage are not as important.
Hey man! I stumbled across your video and also had a blown sub (2008 ISF). I got the same sub as you, and wired up in series. The sub is working, but I can hardly hear it at all. Its not even noticeably different from how it was with no sub. How much of a difference did yours make? I also have wires in pins 2 and 6 (red and light blue), although unsure what they do as a diagram i saw said it was for dual voice. I tested those cables as well, and there is no output, so unsure what they do. They are the two directly next to the first two used in the video. Any idea, or is there a way to increase the bass? Thanks for any input man 👍
Hmm, that's strange. Although the sub can run off either pair. If you check the wiring diagram in the description of this video, you can see the connector diagram in there. I install mine on 1 and 5 (brown +ve, green -ve) and my connector doesn't have anything on 2 and 6. If you're getting no sound at all, I wonder if switching over to 1 and 5 might help?
@@IainFraser81 I do get output from 1 and 5, although it's not very much at all. What's thrown me, is every write up I have read says 2 and 6 shouldn't have any cables in for a ML system. I can't find any reference to these cables anywhere. The old ML subwoofer only has two pins too, which must be 1 and 5 from the amp, although I can't get to the connector itself to see if it also has cables from 2 and 6. I also haven't been able to see if there is actually pins on the amp for 2 and 6 and if cables are just terminated there that do nothing. Strange.
@@jamiewall8943 to directly answer your question: you will certainly notice if the sub is working. The difference is huge when it works. I wonder if you're able to put a multimeter across 2 and 6 sometime and measure the output? If there's signal from both, I wonder if they're dual 4 ohm outputs and you connect one set to each set of terminals? If you have mismatched impedance (amp is 4, speaker is 8) then it'll be quieter. I'd be very interested to see the model number on your amp. Also, this is all me just having a guess. I'd love to know more if you're able to access it sometime. Also, where in the world are you? I wonder if there's any variation by region?
@@IainFraser81 I've investigated some more today, and output 2 and 6 is the feed for the rear right parcel shelf speaker. It's a red and light blue feed. Numbers on the amp are IF 86280-0W550 and 1879286. I do get good bass when over 30 volume, although below that, it's almost nothing. I had a 2013 IS350 before, and that was pumping at all volumes. That was non-ML though. I also realised I had the plastic centre closed, so have opened that and it's much better. Thanks for your help!
I'm not sure, I don't know a whole lot about other systems. It will only work if your car has a factory amplifier and subwoofer already. Otherwise you'd also need an amplifier to drive your sub and possibly a speaker-to-line-level converter if your car doesn't have the necessary wiring from the factory: it's a lot more involved.
@@ironmerc225 sorry, I would only be guessing. I did a quick search for the factory system in that era of Crown. Your amp looks to be made by Pioneer rather than Mark Levinson, so it's a completely different system: you'd have to do some research to find the impedance of your factory sub. If you have a multimeter and you still have the factory sub, you could measure it yourself. It's really important you get a sub of the right impedance, because you may damage your amplifier if you get it wrong. The Polk MM1 that I used in this video has dual voice coils, which means you can set it up for 2, 4 or 8 ohms (though you'd only be using a single coil if you set it up for 4). If you measure your existing factory subwoofer and find that it's 4 ohms, you have HEAPS more options on the subs you can buy -- I only went with the Polk because I needed to make 8 ohms. My advice is, if you're going to be driving an aftermarket sub from a factory amp (like I do in this video) you want to get hold of the highest sensitivity you can afford. My Polk MM1 is 86 dB 1W @ 1m, which turned out pretty good (although I have no basis for comparison, I can't tell you if it's "better" than the cheaper version)
@@IainFraser81 oh thanks for the quick reply, I definitely have to make a trip to an audio specialist around town as I have little knowledge about audio
@@ironmerc225 no worries, good luck! If your car already has a subwoofer in it, then there will certainly be a factory amp in your car to drive it, so you can definitely do something like what I show in this video... it just won't be exactly the same on your car.
Hey man! Just wanted to say thank you for the simple and thorough tutorial. Just finished installing the Polk sub in my own SFP ISF after my ML Sub blew and couldn’t be more grateful for your video, Thanks again and enjoy your F brother!!!!
Hey, thanks very much brother! It's great to get some positive feedback. I always like to post random videos about hacks I've found or things I'm fixing in the hope someone, somewhere might find them useful. It always gives me a buzz to find out that people appreciate them. Enjoy your F too. They're phenomenal vehicles.
Hey @roastbeeff thank you for this video, I was wondering if these set up would work on my 10 gs350 as well?
Thanks for the tutorial. Way better than removing the seats
Hello! My IS350 2007 speakers are all blown. There is sound coming out of the speakers but they need to be replaced. It would be really helpful if you could tell me the size or any other details if you know about them? Thank You!
Hey, sorry I missed your comment, I'm guessing you've probably gotten your problem solved at this point, but just for anyone who might discover this comment in the future, here's a link to a page showing the speaker configurations on a 2014 IS, for both types of system. Even though it's a 2014, I don't think any of the configurations will have changed in that period: www.clublexus.com/forums/is-3rd-gen-2014-present/875986-is350-speaker-sizes.html
More than likely they're not blown, the dust covers come loose and you have to reglue them.
can you recommend a sub for 2015 Gs350 with ML ? mine makes a popping noise/sounds muddy .
i heard that’s a regular thing with the ML subs in the Gs350’s, so want to swap if possible .
@@arjunt973 I imagine they're all the same impedance, but you'd really have to check with a multimeter. I think the GS350 stock sub is actually 6 Ohm. I'm sorry I can't be much help there as I've only done this to my car and I haven't worked on any other Lexus. Good luck though, post a reply in here if you find a good solution so others can learn
How did you disconnect the original sub?
Mine has issues (crackling) and I just want to disconnect it for now.
My sub was already disconnected when I got the car, but if you just cut those two cables you see me soldering, that will disconnect the sub from your system. If you do this, make sure you DON'T snip it close to the connector, leave at least 5cm. That way, when you finally come to wire in something new, you can just splice into the wire like you see me do here, if you cut it too close to the connector you won't leave yourself any room to work later on.
Does the stock amplifier actually make the polk speaker noc/bump hard like a aftermarket amp would?
No, definitely not. It works as a good replacement for the stock sub and it sounds nice and balanced. It is not going to be a window rattler. For anything more than "good enough" you're going to need to get yourself a separate amp to drive it. And the Polk sub here will definitely be up to the task: it's underutilized in this application and can do a lot more than what the stock amp is asking of it.
@IainFraser81 noted, currently have an aftermarket amp and sub but miss my trunk space
Can you make a finalized set up video and couple or a sample of the audio output?
Sure, I could do that. I've also added a few "quality of life" things to my setup, which were supposed to tide me over until I bought a Grom VLine piggyback system... but, haha, my jury-rigged bluetooth setup works well enough that I might just keep it as is. What sorts of things would you like to see in the video?
Do you think the same subwoofer but in a 12’ would work? Or is that too much?
I think it would work, for sure. But I don't know if you'll get much tangible benefit from a bigger cone in this instance. That said, the 12" is another dB more sensitive and is rated for a slightly bassier 26Hz vs the 28Hz of the 10". So all in all, the specs are slightly better than the one I have in my car. Of course the other thing about the larger speaker is the aesthetics, it just looks cooler when you open the trunk. For me, I actually like to open the ski port in my car and have the sub poking through into the cabin, just because I think it looks really cool. But in my case, the 10 is just ever so slightly too big - an 8 probably would have looked a bit better. I still love how it looks though!
But to answer your question, yes I definitely think it would work. The only considerations are really space, and whether the additional cost for the 12 is worth it for you. I'm genuinely curious, I'd love to be able to hear them side by side in the same car and see what the difference is! Anyway, if that's the speaker you want, I say go for it! Remember to drop in and let me know how you went, and how you think it sounds when you've installed it. Good luck!
Edit: with all of the above said though, just be sure to set your expectations realistically. At the end of the day it's still a factory amplifier that's driving the speaker, so even with a bigger speaker, it still isn't going to be a window rattler. But as a replacement for a blown sub and to complement the existing system, I can tell you it sounds really good.
Appreciate your input. Yeah I’m not expecting a window shaker especially from the factory amp. Just want better sound, I currently have a 8’ pioneer sub which I rewired just like you did. It cleaned up some how, before the speakers would cut out after 40 in volume, that problem went away. Maybe I had a short some where and after splicing into the main subwoofer lines it fixed the issue.
I’m going to see if the little tricks to improve the bass would help, I purchased a “vented” 12’ subwoofer box supposedly running a “vented” box produces louder bass and its more efficient and doesn’t require as much amp power. I’ll keep you posted with the results.
Again, thank you for your awesome research and functional expertise! 🙂👍
Night and day difference. Coming from an 8’ subwoofer. Using a vented box also made a drastic change with the 12’ subwoofer. My stereo system is perfect now. Appreciate all your info!
@@junetoroc wow, really?! That's amazing! Thanks for getting back to me. Ha ha, I'm super tempted to look at a 12 now 😂. But yeah, it's nice to get the bass back isn't it. Hope you have many hours of great listening.
So glad to have bass back! I also cranked up the bass +2 and treble +1.
I blew my mark levinson subwoofer! Fuuuuck!
Is it necessary to remove the OEM subwoofer? My ISF subwoofer is blown. Will cutting the two wires turn off the oem sub?
Good question! Yes, you're going to want to cut the wires to the old sub. You don't need to physically remove the sub, snipping the wires is sufficient. Just make doubly sure you're snipping the right ones!
You see me splicing into the wires in the video because someone had already removed the sub from my car and I figured it would be easier to return things to "factory" when I sell it if I just spliced in - so the factory cables are still there if someone wanted to put a factory sub back in one day and all I have to do is snip off my cable.
But in your case if the sub is still there, I would just snip those cables and solder new ones on directly. When you do this, make sure you snip the wires a good distance away from the connector - you'll thank yourself in the future when you come to want to work on it again: you'll have enough left over wire and won't have to replace the connector!
@@IainFraser81 Thank you for your help! Just installed it today! Sounds great! Super easy to install. I thought I had to remove everything until I saw your video! Thanks again!
@@jbcube2997 thanks for the feedback, I'm genuinely really happy that you got a good result that you're happy with! Three months later and I'm still really happy with mine too. Which sub did you end up buying?
@@IainFraser81 I bought the same sub the Polk MM1 10”. Except I bought a different sub box. I think it’s called Bbox pro it’s a cheap sub box and it’s slim. I wanted more space in the back.
@@jbcube2997 mine is some generic no-name thing. I rushed around to my local car stereo shop to buy it when I realised the box I had lying around in my garage was for a 12". Super cheap, but does the job.
Hey since u have a lexus with a mark levinson like me, do you know how i could go about installing an audio control lc2i so that i can equip a new amp so that i can effectively power new aftermarket speakers in the entire car as well as an aftermarket amp while still keeping the full functionality tha the ML amp provides? I have an 2008 GS 350
Hmm, that's a bit beyond my knowledge, but I think the system you're talking about takes a speaker level input and converts it to line level for input into an aftermarket amplifier, right? I don't know for sure, but you might not need one. As your car already has a Mark Levinson amp, you may be able to just piggyback off the factory line inputs. Again, I don't know for sure, but I imagine you could splice into those cables and solder on some RCAs that you could plug straight into your aftermarket amp. You'd need to talk to an installer or someone who knows more than me though - I haven't researched this.
I have a 8inch sub but it's very quite. Its a 4ohm dvc wired to 8ohms i have a lexus is 2006 with Ml system. I removed old sub as it was cracking and died . Replaved it directly with yhe old connector wired to the boot with new sub in a box how ever sub is underwhelming quite. It is a ds18 8inch with 86db 150rms
Could you get a second sub of the same type and wire it in series? That would give you 8 ohms. I'm not sure if it would be any louder though - perhaps you could borrow another 4 ohm from a friend or something and see if it improves at all. Otherwise you'll need to get a dedicated amplifier and speaker-to-line-level converter to drive your 4 ohm sub.
@@IainFraser81 wait in a series that would become 4ohms im I wrong. Sub is 4ohms dvc wired parallel ( can't remember actual name but the wiring that makes it 8ohms)
Where did you get your box?
Just at my local car stereo shop. A lot of auto spares stores carry them too, particularly the ones who also sell audio gear.
Thank you and also how’s the stock amp holding up? I’m planing on doing this to my 2009 lexus IS 350 with ML. My oem subwoofer has completely blown lol
@@reesehardesty4530 yeah, just fine actually, I haven't had an issue with it. I am considering getting a dedicated amp for it though... I kind of want a bit more bass
Hi. I have a Lexus GS 430 MK3 with Mark Levinson audio. I'm looking for a woofer replacement. Do you recommend this Polk audio woofer? plays better? is not a game more enjoyable than the original ML woofer? Does the original ML amplifier handle the POLK AUDIO loudspeaker without any problems?
I actually really like it. Unfortunately I can't compare it to the factory Mark Levinson sub because it was already removed from my car when I bought it. However, the Polk is just great. I'd say with a setup like mine, you don't even need to keep the ski port open; my kids closed it the other day and I didn't notice. I've been running this sub now for two months without any issues so the amp seems capable of driving it. As I said in the video, you're not going to rattle anyone's windows with this setup, but it's loud enough to complement the system well and I like how it sounds. If you wanted to do this yourself, I'd do some research to make sure the sub on your GS430 is also 8 ohms. If you still have the sub, you can check this with a multimeter. I had a quick look at what your amp looks at online and you appear to have the same connectors, so I wouldn't be surprised if the wiring is exactly the same.
thank you for your answer 😉 in a few days I will check the resistance in my current ML woofer. Maybe he will finally decide on a better replacement 😉
@@bartoszjakub1378any updates?
Does the amplifier only control the subwoofer or all the speakers in the car?
All the speakers in the car. In the video, I show you the specific wires that control the subwoofer, but the wiring diagram in the description shows all of them
@@IainFraser81 Ahh okay, do you know how many watts the subwoofer can handle? I am looking to install a 12 inch sub but not sure if I need to purchase a whole new amp.
@@CencuGaming I'm not sure how many Watts the factory amp can drive, but it's no beast by any means. The factory sub is quite small and I think it was designed to add some richness and depth to the system, without intending to be a window rattler for bass heavy music.
As such, rather than looking at the wattage of the sub or it's diameter, you should be looking for the highest sensitivity 8 ohm sub you can buy. The sensitivity rating is a measure of how efficiently the speaker can convert the signal into sound. A more sensitive subwoofer will be louder for the same input power.
My subwoofer has a sensitivity of 86dB, the next model down is 85dB. Decibels are measured on a logarithmic scale, so that 1dB difference is actually quite significant. I've linked to both models in the video description.
So if you want to use the factory amp, here's what you need:
8 ohms, high efficiency/sensitivity (86dB or better). Diameter and rated wattage are not as important.
Hey man! I stumbled across your video and also had a blown sub (2008 ISF). I got the same sub as you, and wired up in series. The sub is working, but I can hardly hear it at all. Its not even noticeably different from how it was with no sub. How much of a difference did yours make? I also have wires in pins 2 and 6 (red and light blue), although unsure what they do as a diagram i saw said it was for dual voice. I tested those cables as well, and there is no output, so unsure what they do. They are the two directly next to the first two used in the video. Any idea, or is there a way to increase the bass? Thanks for any input man 👍
Hmm, that's strange. Although the sub can run off either pair. If you check the wiring diagram in the description of this video, you can see the connector diagram in there. I install mine on 1 and 5 (brown +ve, green -ve) and my connector doesn't have anything on 2 and 6. If you're getting no sound at all, I wonder if switching over to 1 and 5 might help?
@@IainFraser81 I do get output from 1 and 5, although it's not very much at all. What's thrown me, is every write up I have read says 2 and 6 shouldn't have any cables in for a ML system. I can't find any reference to these cables anywhere. The old ML subwoofer only has two pins too, which must be 1 and 5 from the amp, although I can't get to the connector itself to see if it also has cables from 2 and 6. I also haven't been able to see if there is actually pins on the amp for 2 and 6 and if cables are just terminated there that do nothing. Strange.
@@jamiewall8943 to directly answer your question: you will certainly notice if the sub is working. The difference is huge when it works. I wonder if you're able to put a multimeter across 2 and 6 sometime and measure the output? If there's signal from both, I wonder if they're dual 4 ohm outputs and you connect one set to each set of terminals? If you have mismatched impedance (amp is 4, speaker is 8) then it'll be quieter. I'd be very interested to see the model number on your amp. Also, this is all me just having a guess. I'd love to know more if you're able to access it sometime. Also, where in the world are you? I wonder if there's any variation by region?
@@IainFraser81 I've investigated some more today, and output 2 and 6 is the feed for the rear right parcel shelf speaker. It's a red and light blue feed. Numbers on the amp are IF 86280-0W550 and 1879286. I do get good bass when over 30 volume, although below that, it's almost nothing. I had a 2013 IS350 before, and that was pumping at all volumes. That was non-ML though. I also realised I had the plastic centre closed, so have opened that and it's much better. Thanks for your help!
@@IainFraser81 PS, I'm in Perth, WA
Can it only be done if you have the mark Levinson system ?
I'm not sure, I don't know a whole lot about other systems. It will only work if your car has a factory amplifier and subwoofer already. Otherwise you'd also need an amplifier to drive your sub and possibly a speaker-to-line-level converter if your car doesn't have the necessary wiring from the factory: it's a lot more involved.
@@IainFraser81 hi, I have a 2006 Toyota crown and it also has a factory sub do you reckon I could do the same?
@@ironmerc225 sorry, I would only be guessing. I did a quick search for the factory system in that era of Crown. Your amp looks to be made by Pioneer rather than Mark Levinson, so it's a completely different system: you'd have to do some research to find the impedance of your factory sub. If you have a multimeter and you still have the factory sub, you could measure it yourself. It's really important you get a sub of the right impedance, because you may damage your amplifier if you get it wrong. The Polk MM1 that I used in this video has dual voice coils, which means you can set it up for 2, 4 or 8 ohms (though you'd only be using a single coil if you set it up for 4). If you measure your existing factory subwoofer and find that it's 4 ohms, you have HEAPS more options on the subs you can buy -- I only went with the Polk because I needed to make 8 ohms. My advice is, if you're going to be driving an aftermarket sub from a factory amp (like I do in this video) you want to get hold of the highest sensitivity you can afford. My Polk MM1 is 86 dB 1W @ 1m, which turned out pretty good (although I have no basis for comparison, I can't tell you if it's "better" than the cheaper version)
@@IainFraser81 oh thanks for the quick reply, I definitely have to make a trip to an audio specialist around town as I have little knowledge about audio
@@ironmerc225 no worries, good luck! If your car already has a subwoofer in it, then there will certainly be a factory amp in your car to drive it, so you can definitely do something like what I show in this video... it just won't be exactly the same on your car.
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The video was good but the sound was terrible.
why would I put the box into my trunk? you are so screwed .