@@deanslegos1990 lol yes I remember. There was also a Jensen bandpass box where I went. Those bandpass setups never sounded as good as the other setups though
Before the internet they were one of the few ways a person from a rural area could learn about and compare gear. Where I grew up there wasn't a hifi or car audio shop for 100+ miles. The quarterly Crutchfield catalog was a big deal
@@303nitzubishi4 Same here. The old catalog was chocked full of data. I used to study specs for hours. I blew every dime on car audio gear. My parents thought I was nuts. They weren't too far off
So refreshing to see somebody posting car audio advice on youtube who ACTUALLY knows what they are talking about. Kudos! So many people feed BS in to the hobby and claim it is truth. Finding people who actually speak the truth is really, really rare. in this hobby. And on that note, why the hell are there 108 dislikes on this? There is absolutely nothing to not like here.
Pete, I couldn't have said it better myself. So many people either jumping to their own conclusions or passing on whatever misinformation they recieve. I feel bad for some of the people in these forums. They are getting either made fun of by people who don't use the same brand or getting terrible responses from people that just want to up their stats for answering questions with just a couple words uping the amount of questions back and forth and not even able to help.
Mike Cheeze this ☝️CEA2006 is for amplifiers, CEA2010 for speaker drivers. Many companies are also based in countries where its not uncommon to straight up lie about ratings. This is a huge problem with consumer products and their electrical safety certificates. Basically they are selling potentially deadly products and marking them as CE or UL compliant. Very common in cheap products. You get what you pay for. A red flag in car audio products are items mainly advertising their max ratings and usually having very limited specifications available.
I've tried to tell a couple buddies that a perfectly planned and installed sub under a seat will add the hard hitting bass needed/wanted if it is facing down, protected from elements (tools, feet) as opposed to facing them forward unprotected from elements.
Here’s one I heard a long while ago “Turn the gain up all the way and control the sub volume in the head unit”. Also, “capacitors make your subs hit harder” “you need to warm the sub up every time you use it” “bass boost is real”
There actually are merits to that, but by no means that should be rule of thumb. People should just learn the shit to do to right thing, or let others do that. You think you´re going to be an aerospace engineer after reading two days on google? :-D
I'm 45 and have had a sub in my cars all my life. Nothing crazy like back in the 90s when I had a Sony mobile ES complete system with 1600 watts 1000 to the subs and I had 6 10 disc cd changers Daisy chained. Now my factory system is enough for me now except for the anemic factory sub. A 300 watt 8" sounds really good with the factory set up. Plus I haven't lost any space since I was able to do it in the factory location. Great video 👍.
@@CarAudioFabrication yes because most of the pyramid flagship line their coveted gold series except for 3 things is probably the most issues I've ever had with pyramid products, and it isn't car audio but about the only competition products I've used that seems to be useable and a really good product is competition cams!?
Back in highschool i had subs to be loud and cool. Now I have a sub like you said add the bass that you door speakers can’t handle. Lol I have a kicker CompR at 600 RMS and I have it tuned down. Dynomat in doors, roof and back of cab. I’ve been told oh your stereo is loud I can barely hear it outside the truck. That comment changes when they sit in the seat.
And in my humble opinion, you now have the best type of car sound. I was into competitions etc back in the day and hit 152.2db with 2 x 12" subs. That was damn loud - I'd play a bit of a ballad and out-bass guys with 2x 15's playing EDM (Literally happened, at a packed car wash and it was pretty damn funny). Anyway, my point is, that I guess when we're young we want to be a bit showy - so we go for the kind of loud that rattles house windows of the girls we're interested in when we rock up but as some of us age, we realise that the quality aspect of loud makes loud EVEN BETTER.
Wesley Petersen very true. Lol just Thursday before leaving work I sat to get updates on the Raptors winning and was playing my music. Lol coworker says oh that sounds good outside your truck for a stock stereo. Lol so I had to pop the seat up and show him it’s definitely not stock. I only had the volume to 20 and it goes to 50. Again another person mind changed. And my Alpine amps are about to be 10 years old.
Yep. Both my trucks aren't that loud outside, but PLENTY inside. I make a 150W Kicker 10 put out great in my single cab Ranger with my custom designed ported box. Am I blowing out eardrums, no, but it's plenty loud inside for any kind of normal or "spirited" listening.
Thanks for the clarification on underpowering a Sub. I literally just had a local car audio shop deter me from purchasing a higher rated sub for a slight upgrade
I really like this conversation here. I have a standard full size 2011 Ram that has a small area to have subs. I have 2 Kicker Comp RT shallow mount in a custom box. Sounds excellent for a small subwoofer enclosure and totally works better than just a subwoofer under the seat deal.
Couldn't stress how important the sub box is. It's more important than the sub. I started off trusting a local car audio guy and installed and he cost me thousands. I told him what kind of sound I wanted. At the time I had a 250rms system. Long story short. He put 2 12s that need 3.5 cubic feet of air space in a 2.9 cubic foot (including port are and disblasment) box and hooked it up to a 750rms amp. Subs were 750 rms each. And ran a 4 gauge from front battery all the way back. I even got a brand new excelon kenwood deck 5v output. Spent thousands, and it sounded like my 250 rms 1 older shit sub. Took me a year to fully understand sound systems. 2 blown subs later .... I finally got pissed enough and built my own box in a 1 bedroom condo w the wife yelling. Jigsawed the wholes on the lil balcony. Anyways. If I saw this video a year ago I would of saved thousands. Mark speaks the absolute truth about car audio. Thanks buddy.
@@Dude-Smellmyhelmet well. New kenwood excelon deck. New 2 channel amp which he used for mids and highs. New 12s 2 of them. New mono amp + install. Do the math. And in talking Canadian dollars. I was noob and didnt even know what the difference between 2 or 4 channel amp was back then. Do you know the difference?
I bought an old school L7 12 dvc 2ohm secondhand sub for $300, designed and built my own ported box (90ish litres) for $50 and embarrassed all my mates who had spent thousands on brand new top of the line gear.
Yeah i spent alot of money 2 on different set ups ..im still spending money because my amp went out lol i had to learn 2 not 2 trust the audio shops ..
Ye my dad taught me how to do car audio and he was a competition builder only worked wit 18s n 15s all 0gauge Memphis wire 2 orion 20k watt amps 12 6 1/2 n 6 6×9 so when I say you can trust me You can trust me with your money not like these shops over pricing for shitty stuff
Good explanation of how to damage a speaker by overdriving an underpowered amplifier. This is so easy to do when the amplifier 'not quite capable' of reaching the speaker extreme rating and one tries to get there, anyway.
I feel like you almost created a new myth with #2.. A 3dB increase, doubles the sound intensity, which is why adding a 2nd speaker typically gives you 3dB(sometime more). You need 10dB to double the perceived loudness. So you weren't lying, but at the same time there's a difference between sound intensity and loudness. You also need twice the power to gain 3dB, so after a certain power level, adding more speakers becomes more efficient than adding more power.
Great video. I think one thing you should have considered with your adding another sub analogy was amplifier final impedance. If you add another sub and it's wired in parallel with the other one, given that amplifier can handle the final impedance of them both, it's likely pushing nearly twice the wattage, this is the case with a lot of amplifiers. I'm sure you realized this, but just figured I'd mention it, great stuff man!
I've always used sealed enclosures but recently was given a 400w RMS 10" sub in a prefab sealed box. Running it off 350w you could barely feel/hear it from the drivers seat. Used an enclosure design website to design a slot ported box tuned to 36Hz. It hits harder, lower and shakes the car. I regret not switching years ago.
Back in the day (1991), my first stab at a ported enclosure was to modify a dual chamber sealed enclosure (heavily sanded Rustoleum gloss black!) into a ported one. It had my best friend's two vintage all black, steel framed, white dustcap logo, foam surround, Rockford Fosgate Punch 10's inside. About 1.1c.f. per side after the driver. I manually calculated a port size to tune it to 39Hertz and used an inexpensive program to verify. It was I think a 3 inch Schedule 40 white PVC tube cut to 9 or 10 inches. I used a round file and 80 grit sandpaper to carefully roundover and flare both ends. It was held in place with PL2000 construction adhesive/sealant. HOLY SHIT! What a HUGE difference! Louder with more punch and above 40 Hertz definitely less excursion and more power handling. MC Hammer and Snow were killing it (we were 8th graders in 1991). Any lower Q driver with an EBP in the ported range we were trying to port. Porting the 15's in the already undersized sealed enclosures was a huge mistake, and I told my friend this way ahead of time. We had to use dual 2 inch PVC ports and it was only 36Hertz. So much shuffing and poor control. Blah. Then we both heard and felt a brand new Kicker Solobaric 12 in a custom 4th order bandpass! Holy shit again! Now we were 4th bandpassing almost everything. This or sealed WITH proper volume and tuning. Two RF Series 1 gray coned, inverted cap ten's were destroying his bedroom and finally a 1989 Nissan 240SX hatch.
I've always been a "ported guy" but took verbal abuse from friends who swore by sealed for years. After decades of honing my box building skills and competing in sound quality with IASCA, people are surprised to see my subs are ported. My ears and my room full of SQ trophies tells me people are just regurgitating what they've heard. Now I'm not saying there isn't an advantage to sealed not having to deal with group delay (time it takes the rear wave to make its way through the port), but a DSP can compensate for that. Plus, the car is such a terrible listening environment that any minuscule advantage in SQ a sealed sub is supposed to have will never be heard. The benefits of deeper, louder bass with more output volume on the same amplifier are just too much to overlook with ported designs, IMO.
This guy has really helped my confidence in my first amp/sub build that i did this week, and Crutchfield is the bomb! I ordered my head unit and wiring from them, and their support knew 1000% of everything i needed to know
The air space comment was so spot on. It's so annoying the myth that larger subs hit lower, it's stupid. Enclosure design is what yields lower response frequencies. So people wonder why stuffing 6 12s into their trunk doesn't sound as good as the 2 12s I have. In my trunk there's probably enough room for a box for 2 15s but it's cutting it close, yet everyone is DEAD SET on getting 2 15s in these cars, they just won't listen.
You should do a review on how to spot bad subwoofer product reviews, like- "This sub sucks. Only lasted a week and blew. Only had my gains set at a touch past 3/4. 🤔
Richard R if you crank up too much on your headunit, then your headunit is gonna send out distorted signal, so that might be how u blew it. And if u play straight sinustones for a long time, then the coil is gonna heat up alot aswell, so many «rebassed» songs are often damaging subs because theres not enough dynamics for the sub to cool down.
@@itsdenisioo9081 thanks, but I referring to how to spot a bad sub review and giving an example of one in the quotes. I've never actually blown any of mine (yet).
While it shouldn't be the sole deciding factor, sub size does affect sound quality. An 8 inch sub, having less mass and restriction, can move faster and provide better accuracy for fast bass (rock music) when compared to anything larger. The larger the speaker is, the easier it is to reproduce lower frequency. This comes at a trade off, worse transient response. Fast rock gets muddled by large subs, regardless of cabin size. An 8" sub will never hit as low as as a 15", regardless of cabin size.
The first time I ever pulled up to a Termlab, which was at a sanctioned event, I did 151.2 db with 2-15s (didn't have a wall) and 4800 watts (2 Autotek MX-5000) in a SUV. I just did what I always did with less serious setups through the years. Seeing how few other regular Joes ever get near 150 db with more than I had I suppose it must be challenging ;) I really enjoy your vids. I never did any of the custom interior modifications and have been thinking a lot about it lately. You have been very helpful.
Small woofers aren't faster than large woofers. If it were faster it would be a tweeter. How tight a woofer sounds has to do with how damped the resonance is, not the size of the cone.
The biggest one I can think of is that YOU NEED a big system to produce big sound. In high school (2001-2005) everyone had a system. Teachers, nerds, cheerleaders, everyone. I had a 2-door 93 Skylark with a pair of 275w 3-way Pioneer 6x9’s running around 200w to each speaker. No dedicated subwoofer. It was showing up most others others 1000w 1/2x12 setups. I’d pop the trunk and people would be surprised to see it empty.
Such a great video! Loved point number 2 with how to sound twice as loud! Fascinating stuff nice to finally see a clean explanation that completely busts that myth!
Basically it's forcing an amp to boost an audio signal beyond its physical capability. You're getting barely any more power beyond that turn of the gain Dial but thousands of times more distortion
rmblwgn 7:30 his graph with the smooth lines cut off on top and bottom says it all, I’ve always knew distortion kills speakers, not power, and yet that graphic of the “clipped” lines is pure genius. Thanks for chiming in.
@@woohunter1 knowing that 90% of people on the street use shitty 2channel 200 Watt amps to power their subwoofers I'm convinced that clipping is what melts voice coils. I don't know at what point I started to understand all this but it certainly wasn't when I got my first system at 16 because it took me two weeks to install a simple amp sub and radio. now 10 years later I wish I knew this basic stuff back then
You should make an updated video to your original video about using Winisd and taking in consideration different factors like cabin gain. By the way great video and keep up the good work.
you can't really calculate cabin gain with a program though as every cabin and sub and box will react differently, resulting in you just having to test out different ports and box sizes to see what works best. although, for most people who aren't chasing .5 db's winisd works great
Morgan Bill's you can test with a sealed box and find the db or freq of your cabin. Then you tune wither to that or an octave lower so it's in the sweet spot of the impedance curve. You need win isd and a spl meter and rta. Yes every vehicle is different but there are sites that people have posted their vehicle and their sweeps so when designing if you dont have those tools you can get in the ballpark.
Thank you. Your channel is one of the most informative across all of my areas of interest. Kudos, and much respect for sharing the wealth of knowledge, and the thorough explanations
I see you are a new subscriber, thanks for joining! Tons of content coming, I just uploaded a new subwoofer box video here: th-cam.com/video/eTQeUfv1dDU/w-d-xo.html
The most common myth I hear... " "X" brand is better if you want more bass". Top of the list goes to JL's, but there's a lot of brand bias with every brand out there. I certainly have my favorites!
I have a older system with 2 Boston g1 and a alpine 500 rms amp and it's pretty loud to me and sounds great. Those subs are 12 years old and I'm glad I kept them
It really depends on if the subs are designed for it or not. I’ve got two MTX 12” subs. Now, I’m young and I wanted to get an affordable pair, so I just went ahead and purchased the entire bass package from MTX, subs wired up in the enclosure already, all I had to do was power the amp and run it to the subs. (Btw, for $250, hot damn, they sound great, a pretty good deal) Anyway, I mostly listen to rap, and literally every one of my friends has said, “you need to port that box,” however, MTX designed those subs to work in a completely closed off enclosure. Like I said, whether or not it needs to be ported depends on how the subs are designed.
@@ethanobenauer7083 They make a ported mtx Terminator now if you wanna get a budget ported box. Though I have the ported while my friend doesn't and they sound basically identical mine flexes a little more but that's about it
Great video very informative! Years ago I used to have a band pass box of two 10”s. I like to think out of the box and I have a question that no one seems to be able to answer me. My question is, can you put a sealed subwoofer box and have a separate box that has a band pass box? My thinking is have the nice clean sound of a sealed subwoofer yet also have it mixed with the raw behind the cone bass of a band pass box. What are your thoughts on that? Thanks
This video just saved me a bunch of money. I was debating putting two on the same power as I did in a previous car but I sure can’t put four subs on four times the power. Thanks! I never see the TH-cam info cards or in-video links to other videos on my phone. Note to self, find the one mentioned at 5:48 to learn more! 😎
Adding acoustic fiber fill is intended to cause waveform scatter as the cone goes through its excursions. This will reduce parallel waveform reflections that can cause increases or decreases in loudness at specific frequencies, based on the tuning size of your enclosure.
Myth-ish. Proper deadening/batting/box construction can make a small volume box sound better than a poorly made larger volume box, but not really make up for the lost airspace. If you were to swap out the oversized sub with one designed for the smaller, deadened box you would still get an additional improvement in sound quality ( if the speakers were otherwise the same).
My favourite myths are still the "gain is just a second volume knob", "bass boost..."(enough said) and "50W RMS, 561432598737948W Peak Power"... Also, I've been trying to tell my friends some these when they tell me I'm just f*cking with them with the little 20L box ... yeah, you have a badly tuned cheap amp with a bigg ass plate in a big ass box taking up all the space in your trunk with no air to move, while I had everything measured in my 2 seater lunchbox, built the sub enclosure according to the manufacturer recommendations, then measured and tuned everything.. And then they look at me like I'm crazy.
He's not lying about the box dimensions.. A year ago my cousin got two 10" subs for his truck and they suffocated underneath the seats in an air tight box.. It sounded absolute garbage until he got a Jeep with a new box
Don't forget about vehicle specific sound resonance and acoustics. Each and every vehicle has its own cabin frequency. That's why my vehicle produces more decibels at 42hz rather than any other frequencies.
I left an 18 inch sub in the garage through a cold winter (several days below 20 degrees), and the neoprene ring stress cracked from just sitting there. I'd venture that movement while the ring is cold enough would tear it.
Captain Drizzle a subwoofer is just the sum of its materials. If something gets hot after it’s freezing cold, and then moved around violently, it sounds like it’s possible. That being said, car subs are made to withstand more than home subs. I’m sure mine get to over 100 degrees in my car on a hot day and they’re fine.
if the air inside an air tight sub enclosure expands because of the heat from de voice coils, hence increasing pressure, i can see it pushing the cone out long enough to fall apart during maximum excursion. idk man, i'm hella high.
“Bigger subs are slower so they are better for rap hip hop, smaller subs are tighter so better for rock music” This is a very common myth I hear frequently.
I've done a build similar to this many years ago with an old Toyota Corolla and a 12" Pioneer IMPP sub that we inverted and had the port extending out and into the cabin but all hidden away. It sounded amazing.
6. 8" sub for the "high bass" 12" sub for that "low bass" 7. "If you're using 2 subs in the same box you should always invert the polarity." 8. "If you have a sealed box you are missing out on the low end" 9. "After going ported, my 8" sub now sounds like 2 12"s" - (you never heard how 2 proper 12s sound) 10. "if your trunk ain't rattling, it's not happening"; "more rattle = louder sub" - same people that think sound treatment is a waste of money and will make their system quieter.
My subwoofer guy put paint on top of the gain controls and all that and said he put them exactly where they need to be, so don't touch them and he'll be able to tell if I messed with it because the paint would be cracked on the dials. Loved that guy
Q.) If you have are putting 2 subwoofers into 1 sealed box do you need to separate the 2 subwoofers or double the air volume required for each subwoofer?
@@RodofAllTrades Maybe you should think twice and research something until you comment about it. If you have a sealed box, with 2 divided chambers INSIDE then tell me how the sub would see twice the air volume. I really hope that you understand that the space between those two subs are sealed against each other.
I see what your saying with adding another subwoofer but that's why its imperative to do your research however, if your only utilizing a small portion of your Amps capabilities, it's the benefits of understanding your options when running your wires to a single sub even into a duel speaker setup as you can often get a smaller ohm rating and more power pending the type of amplifier your running. Providing you with more wattage to split between. But I get it your just explaining the basic misconceptions.
My father earlier in the year bought a couple of vehicles to resell, and got one that had a dual subwoofer box and amp, and he said i could keep it, it worked but i did find that the box isn't in the best of conditions and doesn't properly seal as well as it did before, i want to stick with sealed, but i see a bunch of boxes on amazon that I've looked at, the main question is should i pay much attention to the box brand or just the volume of the box(along with the dimensions to make sure it fits), and make sure it would work with the subs and still sound good. As i found several different boxes, i found some that was $70 and others that was $200+, its for dual 12's Before someone says to reseal the box i currently have, I have already tried that, and lasted around 2-3 weeks before happening again. The main problem is the edges of the box is deteriorating more and more the longer i keep it.
with good 8's you can get very good sounding bass, they just won't rattle stuff like a 12" will. Hell, Bose home speakers makes good sounding base with 6.5" speakers, they just don't rattle anything. A car is the easiest place to make great sound. It is an enclosed space. SPL is sound pressure level, ie the more space the more level is needed to appear impressive. Back in the late 80's when I competed, I built a few really great sounding systems with nothing larger than 8" subs. I ran an Orion 225HCCA driving 2 pairs of MBQuart 6.5" and tweeter separates and the Autotek 7050BTS driving a pair of Lanzar Pro sealed 10" subs in the 100w and under level. All in a mini truck. Won many titles with that setup.
Yes and no. But you need cone area to move air. That's just simple physics. Mass weight and suspension has a lot to say as well. Trust me, a 24 inch PD driver will do things just about any other pro 18 or 21 can only dream of. But iwll it be as fast? No, and not as articulate. But it will work great as an actual subwoofer. from about 60-70 hz and down.
Well, in a very simple sense, more come area equals more base. (I’m aware that that’s not the exact reason why, however, it is generally true) The larger the sub, the more cone area. However, it also just depends on quality. I have a relatively expensive set of 2 MTX 12” subs in my car, they sound good, hit hard and fast, and are amazing value for what they cost. However, my dad has 2 10” subs in his car that are wayyyyyy louder and produce ridiculous amounts more bass, can’t remember the brand but they’re some sort of badass made for competition subs. However, in the majority of cases, bigger subs do actually mean more bass.
The type of material in box construction should be addressed. I am a fan of 10s and used Trupan cabinet-grade for the enclosures in 2 of my cars. I paint the inside of my boxes with latex paint to prevent material "breathing". I love you information.
From my experience with my 12" Diamond Audio, i agree with that. 12" if you have the space, 10" if you´re limited on space. I think anything above 15" is nonsense.
I ended up with a pair of Infinity Kappa 1000W 450 watt RMS 10" subs paired to a 1000 watt RMS Kenwood KAC-9106d amp. Metal and well mixed classic rock never sounded so good. Lamb of God - Blacken the Cursed Sun & Ted Nugent - Wang Dang Sweet Poontang for reference.
I love your channel, Mark! I watch it with my kids, which is something I can’t do with Doug’s channel. I wish his videos were a little more PG. Keep up the great work! You guys should do a colab some day!!!
with the same amp , yes. It adds 6db if driven by a second amp of equal power to the first. Every doubling of power adds 3 db and every adding of a same sized sub adds 3 db, so 6db total. I don't think he explained why it went to 6. So upping your amp output from 100w to 200w will add 3 db of SPL. Going from 200w to 400w will add 3 more. going from 400 to 800 will add 3 more. So going from 100w to 800w will add 9db if using the same sub. Easiest way to add DB, buy a really efficient sub to begin with. Don't buy the cheap 85db efficient sub, buy the much better ( and costs more ) 88db sub for $50 more and you gain 3 db just in sub performance. Back when I competed in the late 80's, pro subs were 94-98db efficient. We could get 120db from 200w amps. ( Amps were much more expensive and all were class a/b amps ) Now it takes 300w to 800w to get the same thing. Class D amps are cheaper so Subs have gotten less efficient.
When the subwoofers are stacked (coupled) or very close to each other it can add up to 6 DB this trick is used a lot in PA systems. Since low frequencies are omni directional any way you don’t necessarily need a stereo subwoofer setup. Because its going to be quite hard to hear where the sound is coming from anyway. Also in most mixes the kick drum and the bass guitar are panned dead center so there is no need for stereo anyhow. So thats why they are stacked, rather have the extra DB’s then have a stereo system that will likely not be used anyway.
Simplified explanation: it has 2 sets of connections, allowing it to be wired in multiple ohm configurations. It has two separate sets of windings, each is powered separately. To get more in depth, try googling SVC vs DVC.
How to calculate, what size of subwoofer is best for Opel Astra 2006 hatchback? I like sound quality, and i want fast Base for rock music but sometimes i want lows also. Ive been thinking about two 10 inch with closed enclosure. What do you think? Thank you. :)
My 6.5inch subwoofer in the kitchen (with a 10inch passive radiator) which is around 50 watts can rattle my houses main front door. Only around 30-38hz though. It also rattles all draws and cabinets at 40hz and over.
American bass Hawk series 12", and a Fosgate 1200 monoblock is an insane amount of bass. This is what I have and its over 140db. If u need more than that, You have my respect.
I added 2 JBL GX1200s and it didn’t do exactly what I thought it would but I’m honestly happier with the results I was kinda expecting it to completely outweigh my mids and my tweeters but honestly it works with them so well it almost increased the vocals as well as giving me that range I was missing
Just to clarify for the cheeeldren He means the total interior air volume of the speaker cabinet/box, that can physically fit inside your vehicle. Not the total air volume of your vehicle.
Gabriel Borrego @ I love my three 10TW3’s seriously if their installed correctly their monstrous and yet so compact. Powering my three off just their HD750/1
I went from a single TW3 in a 0.5cf sealed box driven by a JL XD 600 amp to a TW5 in a 1.2cf sealed box driven by a Audio control 800.1 and they are VERY different. I love how deep the TW5 sounds by I do miss the tight punchy bass of the TW3.
I put my subs in and wanted it to be loud enough to hear out side... I realized that I prefer the bass just loud enough to amplify the small bass lines you miss.
Myth number three. Sort of yes. Here's the thing. It is often the case that a larger driver tends to be slower and a bit more lazy. Yes, you should of course consider the space you have, and the power you have. But still, two equally powerful and same quality subs, one a 12 and one an 18, will not sound the same. In many cases, the 12 is a great size because it does work better at higher frequencies, but it will still play low, but also fast. It is what it is, but the size has zero to do with music, and all to do with what you want to do with it.
should add that a larger sub *All things being equal* would sound louder at less power due to the larger surface area of the sub. You push more air....
I was literally about to buy a Rockville RTB10A and then I read the comments. What is so bad about Rockville? Why should I not invest in Rockville? I have a 2012 reg can Tacoma and I want a 10. What route should I take?
I honestly winged my whole system, bought it piece by piece but it sounds really good, I haven't adjusted my amplifier to proper setting, I've never blown any speakers nor started fires, but I feel like there is more potential I am missing out on
just learned that last one, i am slowly building a system for my vehicle, i started with new 6x8's front and back, they have been running off my factory head unit for 8 months now while i have been collecting the other parts for my new set up, i got the sub, amp new head unit and everything all here and i blew my front 6x8's 2 weeks ago, i didn't figure my deck put out enough to blow the speakers so i went on a 2 hour drive with bass bumping and it was sounding real good, then pop goes the speakers, now here i am buying new 6x8's again when i should be using the money to get an amp kit and what not.
Did a system many moons ago, a friend with a van. He didn't want a box, he needed all his space. Put (2)12s and 3 tweeters in 1/2 inch mdf, 1 1/2inch spacer rings in his rear doors, sealed with silicone with ports and some foam under the plate. Made it look like a gemsound dj speaker with the black grill and charcoal felt. It sounded like he had 2 bazookas. He was happy, probably deaf now.
A lot of these myths apply to home stereo. Myth: the bass will overwhelm everything and sound unnatural. No, not if you use a crossover correctly. The sub does nothing unless there is bass content.
Single skar evl 15 in a Veloster, lol. It does fine. If I get this maverick at the end of September I'll have to figure out because it won't sit on the floor. And on the back seat is debatable.
I heard that "smaller wires shoot the watts further like a small hose squirts water further and that makes the system louder". The same person also said that "He uses speaker wire for ground because all the watts are used up by the time the exit the amplifier". People also say Myth #1 a lot and that I don't want all that bass over my music. They think adding a subwoofer is the same as turning up the bass control on the radio except louder.
@@CotyRiddleThis was a guy at a garage showing me his system, not me. I know about skin effect on dc vs ac and frequency and skin vs core conduction already but thanks for the info anyway.
How would i build a custom box in a 2003 ford f250 single cab behind the seat pick up truck. I have shallow skar vd 12in subs, mounting depth of 4.92 in, they need 1.00ft³ per sub sealed, or 1.75ft³ ported, displacement .10ft³. Rite now i have 2 atrend bbox truck boxes at .80 ft³ per box minus the .10ft³ for displacement of each sub so .70ft³ per box per sub rite now on a alpine mrp 4501.d, and it sounds better than i ever thought. Now i bought a skar skv2 1500.1D amplifier and i think im going to need new boxes or a new single box with the added power. What are you thoughts and recommendations. Sealed, ported. I like crisp clean sq notes where you can hear every note in the song no matter the frequency. The subs handle 500wrms and 800wmax each. How would i go about building a box that will still leave me plenty of leg room and comfort for snowplowing long hours in a small single cab f250. Any thoughts would be awesome, or a place who can build one at a affordable price, or a good prefabed box that will be 1.10ft³ per sub, hit every note with authority, leave my truck totally work friendly, and be able to handle all the power. Thanks much
OK brother I got 2 12" subs rated @3000 and 2 amps rated @40001 Amp rated1000 for tweeters.is it to much or not enough? Going in a Chevy van full size. How am I doing on it. I want the thing to blow stuff up.
adding +10 in the base channel makes the sound nice and strong and I drive it daylie with that EQ setting. litteraly every "oh I'm so cool" person I know 😂
Remember when Best Buy had almost a quarter of their store just for car audio...
I remember circuit city had a boom room lol
Remember those dual brand subs in the bandpass box that lit up blue
@@deanslegos1990 lol yes I remember. There was also a Jensen bandpass box where I went. Those bandpass setups never sounded as good as the other setups though
Same as Radio Shack
Ohhhh I member
Listen to this man. He is giving 100% valid and easy to understand information. Proper enclosure volume and design plus undistorted power are tops.
he definitely knows his stuff
I've been using Crutchfield since 1988. I've never had a negative experience with them in all these years. Great company!
Ed Jackson same.
Before the internet they were one of the few ways a person from a rural area could learn about and compare gear. Where I grew up there wasn't a hifi or car audio shop for 100+ miles. The quarterly Crutchfield catalog was a big deal
@@303nitzubishi4 Same here. The old catalog was chocked full of data. I used to study specs for hours. I blew every dime on car audio gear. My parents thought I was nuts. They weren't too far off
What Wizard is to Baseball cards, Crutchfield is to Car Audio..
Their customer service is the gold standard. Every company should compare themselves to Crutchfield
This dude is a genius!! Wish TH-cam was around when I was in high school
So refreshing to see somebody posting car audio advice on youtube who ACTUALLY knows what they are talking about. Kudos!
So many people feed BS in to the hobby and claim it is truth. Finding people who actually speak the truth is really, really rare. in this hobby.
And on that note, why the hell are there 108 dislikes on this? There is absolutely nothing to not like here.
Pete, I couldn't have said it better myself. So many people either jumping to their own conclusions or passing on whatever misinformation they recieve. I feel bad for some of the people in these forums. They are getting either made fun of by people who don't use the same brand or getting terrible responses from people that just want to up their stats for answering questions with just a couple words uping the amount of questions back and forth and not even able to help.
The dislikes are from Rockwell
Myth #6 "a CEA rated 1000 watts subwoofer mean it can handle a 1000 watts CEA rated amplifier" -Mike from rockville .
@Stimpy&Ren it's only for AMPS!!! the one for subs is CEA-2010 if I'm not mistaken.
Rockville is a myth company😂😂
Everybody finding out Rockville is trash.
Mike Cheeze this ☝️CEA2006 is for amplifiers, CEA2010 for speaker drivers. Many companies are also based in countries where its not uncommon to straight up lie about ratings. This is a huge problem with consumer products and their electrical safety certificates. Basically they are selling potentially deadly products and marking them as CE or UL compliant. Very common in cheap products. You get what you pay for. A red flag in car audio products are items mainly advertising their max ratings and usually having very limited specifications available.
I've tried to tell a couple buddies that a perfectly planned and installed sub under a seat will add the hard hitting bass needed/wanted if it is facing down, protected from elements (tools, feet) as opposed to facing them forward unprotected from elements.
Here’s one I heard a long while ago “Turn the gain up all the way and control the sub volume in the head unit”. Also, “capacitors make your subs hit harder” “you need to warm the sub up every time you use it” “bass boost is real”
There actually are merits to that, but by no means that should be rule of thumb. People should just learn the shit to do to right thing, or let others do that. You think you´re going to be an aerospace engineer after reading two days on google? :-D
If yer amp is running low of juice a cap will help.
what's wrong with turning the gain up? this is what I do is it wrong?
"Bass boost" just turns everything else down
@@trevormtb9372 thats not true
I'm 45 and have had a sub in my cars all my life. Nothing crazy like back in the 90s when I had a Sony mobile ES complete system with 1600 watts 1000 to the subs and I had 6 10 disc cd changers Daisy chained. Now my factory system is enough for me now except for the anemic factory sub. A 300 watt 8" sounds really good with the factory set up. Plus I haven't lost any space since I was able to do it in the factory location. Great video 👍.
60 cds?
My favorite myth: it has competition written on it, so it must be really good!
Haha that's a classic. Usually the subwoofers labeled "competition" are the worst!
It's like reverse psychology
@@CarAudioFabrication yes because most of the pyramid flagship line their coveted gold series except for 3 things is probably the most issues I've ever had with pyramid products, and it isn't car audio but about the only competition products I've used that seems to be useable and a really good product is competition cams!?
jamming out to some TOOL with my alpine type r’s is like being in a bass induced heaven
alpine R are like a good surprize in your pants...yaaa!!i do world champ installs.. but a single alpine r or s....is really good and clean!!
Bros. Get the xs if u can.
You should make a video about shollow mouth subs vs regular size subs
Lol. "shollow mouth subs".
Shallow MOUNT bro... just subs with a very small footprint to work in very tight spaces.
@@spill1t
Yes, I know what shallow mount subs are. I was laughing at the spelling " shollow mouth".
@@sirnate54 lol, I know you knew.....I was actually responding to the poor OP! Haha
@@spill1t
Lol.
Back in highschool i had subs to be loud and cool. Now I have a sub like you said add the bass that you door speakers can’t handle. Lol I have a kicker CompR at 600 RMS and I have it tuned down. Dynomat in doors, roof and back of cab. I’ve been told oh your stereo is loud I can barely hear it outside the truck. That comment changes when they sit in the seat.
And in my humble opinion, you now have the best type of car sound. I was into competitions etc back in the day and hit 152.2db with 2 x 12" subs. That was damn loud - I'd play a bit of a ballad and out-bass guys with 2x 15's playing EDM (Literally happened, at a packed car wash and it was pretty damn funny). Anyway, my point is, that I guess when we're young we want to be a bit showy - so we go for the kind of loud that rattles house windows of the girls we're interested in when we rock up but as some of us age, we realise that the quality aspect of loud makes loud EVEN BETTER.
Wesley Petersen very true. Lol just Thursday before leaving work I sat to get updates on the Raptors winning and was playing my music. Lol coworker says oh that sounds good outside your truck for a stock stereo. Lol so I had to pop the seat up and show him it’s definitely not stock. I only had the volume to 20 and it goes to 50. Again another person mind changed. And my Alpine amps are about to be 10 years old.
Your current system sounds like mine not loud outside but very audible inside.
Best type of setup
I don’t need everyone at the stoplight to shake as well, just my seats
Yep. Both my trucks aren't that loud outside, but PLENTY inside. I make a 150W Kicker 10 put out great in my single cab Ranger with my custom designed ported box. Am I blowing out eardrums, no, but it's plenty loud inside for any kind of normal or "spirited" listening.
Thanks for the clarification on underpowering a Sub. I literally just had a local car audio shop deter me from purchasing a higher rated sub for a slight upgrade
I really like this conversation here. I have a standard full size 2011 Ram that has a small area to have subs. I have 2 Kicker Comp RT shallow mount in a custom box. Sounds excellent for a small subwoofer enclosure and totally works better than just a subwoofer under the seat deal.
Couldn't stress how important the sub box is. It's more important than the sub. I started off trusting a local car audio guy and installed and he cost me thousands. I told him what kind of sound I wanted. At the time I had a 250rms system. Long story short. He put 2 12s that need 3.5 cubic feet of air space in a 2.9 cubic foot (including port are and disblasment) box and hooked it up to a 750rms amp. Subs were 750 rms each. And ran a 4 gauge from front battery all the way back. I even got a brand new excelon kenwood deck 5v output. Spent thousands, and it sounded like my 250 rms 1 older shit sub. Took me a year to fully understand sound systems. 2 blown subs later .... I finally got pissed enough and built my own box in a 1 bedroom condo w the wife yelling. Jigsawed the wholes on the lil balcony. Anyways. If I saw this video a year ago I would of saved thousands. Mark speaks the absolute truth about car audio. Thanks buddy.
Thousands? That's on you lol. Wtf?
@@Dude-Smellmyhelmet well. New kenwood excelon deck. New 2 channel amp which he used for mids and highs. New 12s 2 of them. New mono amp + install. Do the math. And in talking Canadian dollars. I was noob and didnt even know what the difference between 2 or 4 channel amp was back then.
Do you know the difference?
I bought an old school L7 12 dvc 2ohm secondhand sub for $300, designed and built my own ported box (90ish litres) for $50 and embarrassed all my mates who had spent thousands on brand new top of the line gear.
Yeah i spent alot of money 2 on different set ups ..im still spending money because my amp went out lol i had to learn 2 not 2 trust the audio shops ..
Ye my dad taught me how to do car audio and he was a competition builder only worked wit 18s n 15s all 0gauge Memphis wire 2 orion 20k watt amps 12 6 1/2 n 6 6×9 so when I say you can trust me You can trust me with your money not like these shops over pricing for shitty stuff
Good explanation of how to damage a speaker by overdriving an underpowered amplifier. This is so easy to do when the amplifier 'not quite capable' of reaching the speaker extreme rating and one tries to get there, anyway.
I feel like you almost created a new myth with #2.. A 3dB increase, doubles the sound intensity, which is why adding a 2nd speaker typically gives you 3dB(sometime more). You need 10dB to double the perceived loudness. So you weren't lying, but at the same time there's a difference between sound intensity and loudness. You also need twice the power to gain 3dB, so after a certain power level, adding more speakers becomes more efficient than adding more power.
Great video. I think one thing you should have considered with your adding another sub analogy was amplifier final impedance. If you add another sub and it's wired in parallel with the other one, given that amplifier can handle the final impedance of them both, it's likely pushing nearly twice the wattage, this is the case with a lot of amplifiers. I'm sure you realized this, but just figured I'd mention it, great stuff man!
Been buying from crutchfield for yeeeeaaaarrrrrrsssss. They are *definitely* worth the slight cost increase.
There are cheaper stores? That's hard to believe because Crutchfield literally gives you half of what youre buying for free
I've always used sealed enclosures but recently was given a 400w RMS 10" sub in a prefab sealed box. Running it off 350w you could barely feel/hear it from the drivers seat. Used an enclosure design website to design a slot ported box tuned to 36Hz. It hits harder, lower and shakes the car. I regret not switching years ago.
I have experienced the sealed box to have more punch but for low end hit, the ported always hit lower, ported all the way.
Back in the day (1991), my first stab at a ported enclosure was to modify a dual chamber sealed enclosure (heavily sanded Rustoleum gloss black!) into a ported one. It had my best friend's two vintage all black, steel framed, white dustcap logo, foam surround, Rockford Fosgate Punch 10's inside. About 1.1c.f. per side after the driver. I manually calculated a port size to tune it to 39Hertz and used an inexpensive program to verify. It was I think a 3 inch Schedule 40 white PVC tube cut to 9 or 10 inches. I used a round file and 80 grit sandpaper to carefully roundover and flare both ends. It was held in place with PL2000 construction adhesive/sealant.
HOLY SHIT! What a HUGE difference! Louder with more punch and above 40 Hertz definitely less excursion and more power handling. MC Hammer and Snow were killing it (we were 8th graders in 1991). Any lower Q driver with an EBP in the ported range we were trying to port. Porting the 15's in the already undersized sealed enclosures was a huge mistake, and I told my friend this way ahead of time. We had to use dual 2 inch PVC ports and it was only 36Hertz. So much shuffing and poor control. Blah.
Then we both heard and felt a brand new Kicker Solobaric 12 in a custom 4th order bandpass! Holy shit again! Now we were 4th bandpassing almost everything. This or sealed WITH proper volume and tuning. Two RF Series 1 gray coned, inverted cap ten's were destroying his bedroom and finally a 1989 Nissan 240SX hatch.
I've always been a "ported guy" but took verbal abuse from friends who swore by sealed for years. After decades of honing my box building skills and competing in sound quality with IASCA, people are surprised to see my subs are ported. My ears and my room full of SQ trophies tells me people are just regurgitating what they've heard. Now I'm not saying there isn't an advantage to sealed not having to deal with group delay (time it takes the rear wave to make its way through the port), but a DSP can compensate for that. Plus, the car is such a terrible listening environment that any minuscule advantage in SQ a sealed sub is supposed to have will never be heard. The benefits of deeper, louder bass with more output volume on the same amplifier are just too much to overlook with ported designs, IMO.
This guy has really helped my confidence in my first amp/sub build that i did this week, and Crutchfield is the bomb! I ordered my head unit and wiring from them, and their support knew 1000% of everything i needed to know
The air space comment was so spot on. It's so annoying the myth that larger subs hit lower, it's stupid. Enclosure design is what yields lower response frequencies. So people wonder why stuffing 6 12s into their trunk doesn't sound as good as the 2 12s I have.
In my trunk there's probably enough room for a box for 2 15s but it's cutting it close, yet everyone is DEAD SET on getting 2 15s in these cars, they just won't listen.
Amen.
you should make a video on how to make a down-firing subwoofer box
Keep an eye out for my next subwoofer build ;)
@@CarAudioFabrication If you make a video of rolling your box 90 degrees on its face, I would laugh my ass off Mark.
I have a question I have two subwoofers in the trunk of my car is it better to face them towards the seats or the other direction
You should do a review on how to spot bad subwoofer product reviews, like- "This sub sucks. Only lasted a week and blew. Only had my gains set at a touch past 3/4. 🤔
Richard R if you crank up too much on your headunit, then your headunit is gonna send out distorted signal, so that might be how u blew it. And if u play straight sinustones for a long time, then the coil is gonna heat up alot aswell, so many «rebassed» songs are often damaging subs because theres not enough dynamics for the sub to cool down.
@@itsdenisioo9081 thanks, but I referring to how to spot a bad sub review and giving an example of one in the quotes. I've never actually blown any of mine (yet).
This guys videos are soooo underrated like I really didn’t know you wouldn’t be able to increase output just by adding another woofer
Wouldn't inverting your speakers increase the box air volume since the speaker isn't taking up space in the box?
Yes but now you would need to make sure you have the space in your vehicle for the inverted cones.
While it shouldn't be the sole deciding factor, sub size does affect sound quality. An 8 inch sub, having less mass and restriction, can move faster and provide better accuracy for fast bass (rock music) when compared to anything larger. The larger the speaker is, the easier it is to reproduce lower frequency. This comes at a trade off, worse transient response. Fast rock gets muddled by large subs, regardless of cabin size. An 8" sub will never hit as low as as a 15", regardless of cabin size.
Then there’s me that’s leaned how to take off my door panels in 2 minutes on the side of the road to fix a rattle.
The first time I ever pulled up to a Termlab, which was at a sanctioned event, I did 151.2 db with 2-15s (didn't have a wall) and 4800 watts (2 Autotek MX-5000) in a SUV. I just did what I always did with less serious setups through the years. Seeing how few other regular Joes ever get near 150 db with more than I had I suppose it must be challenging ;) I really enjoy your vids. I never did any of the custom interior modifications and have been thinking a lot about it lately. You have been very helpful.
Small woofers aren't faster than large woofers. If it were faster it would be a tweeter. How tight a woofer sounds has to do with how damped the resonance is, not the size of the cone.
A crappy amplifier with significant output impedance will have less of a damping factor and mush up the bass by letting the woofer resonate.
Tell that to an bass guitar player....
They are faster because they are lighter, not because they are smaller.
@@Dawood4 . The are lighter because they are smaller. Duh.
@@tomcolopy5565 so, you're saying size matters? 😀
The biggest one I can think of is that YOU NEED a big system to produce big sound. In high school (2001-2005) everyone had a system. Teachers, nerds, cheerleaders, everyone. I had a 2-door 93 Skylark with a pair of 275w 3-way Pioneer 6x9’s running around 200w to each speaker. No dedicated subwoofer. It was showing up most others others 1000w 1/2x12 setups. I’d pop the trunk and people would be surprised to see it empty.
Such a great video! Loved point number 2 with how to sound twice as loud! Fascinating stuff nice to finally see a clean explanation that completely busts that myth!
All the years I’ve been into car audio (as a hobby) I never fully understood clipping, or had it explained in this way. Very good info!
Basically it's forcing an amp to boost an audio signal beyond its physical capability. You're getting barely any more power beyond that turn of the gain Dial but thousands of times more distortion
rmblwgn 7:30 his graph with the smooth lines cut off on top and bottom says it all, I’ve always knew distortion kills speakers, not power, and yet that graphic of the “clipped” lines is pure genius. Thanks for chiming in.
@@woohunter1 knowing that 90% of people on the street use shitty 2channel 200 Watt amps to power their subwoofers I'm convinced that clipping is what melts voice coils. I don't know at what point I started to understand all this but it certainly wasn't when I got my first system at 16 because it took me two weeks to install a simple amp sub and radio. now 10 years later I wish I knew this basic stuff back then
You should make an updated video to your original video about using Winisd and taking in consideration different factors like cabin gain. By the way great video and keep up the good work.
you can't really calculate cabin gain with a program though as every cabin and sub and box will react differently, resulting in you just having to test out different ports and box sizes to see what works best. although, for most people who aren't chasing .5 db's winisd works great
@@hawnfire lol
Morgan Bill's you can test with a sealed box and find the db or freq of your cabin. Then you tune wither to that or an octave lower so it's in the sweet spot of the impedance curve. You need win isd and a spl meter and rta. Yes every vehicle is different but there are sites that people have posted their vehicle and their sweeps so when designing if you dont have those tools you can get in the ballpark.
But I would like a vid like this
When I did weddings, I always brought an 18" sub woofer. Gotta have a sub for full audio experience
In 25 years, I can count the number of times I've heard myth no.1 on a quadriplegics left hand.
No.3 should be the no.1 myth
Thank you. Your channel is one of the most informative across all of my areas of interest. Kudos, and much respect for sharing the wealth of knowledge, and the thorough explanations
I see you are a new subscriber, thanks for joining! Tons of content coming, I just uploaded a new subwoofer box video here: th-cam.com/video/eTQeUfv1dDU/w-d-xo.html
An other myth, a dual voice coil subwoofer is louder than single voice coil
I had this argument with my brother today. He swears he needs to buy DVC subs to replace his SVC subs... so he can be louder
adaboy4z I know I had that discussion with other people
HAHAHAHA
This was the first thing I thought of when he asked about other subwoofer myths that we have heard.
Mark missed this one and it's a popular one! I'm turning red cos when I first got into this whole thing I also thought that! haha
The most common myth I hear... " "X" brand is better if you want more bass". Top of the list goes to JL's, but there's a lot of brand bias with every brand out there. I certainly have my favorites!
If you get square subs the square clip waves wont hurt the sub🤔 just simple science!
I have a older system with 2 Boston g1 and a alpine 500 rms amp and it's pretty loud to me and sounds great. Those subs are 12 years old and I'm glad I kept them
I put a 10" shallow mount sub in my truck and every person I showed it to said I need to port it or it won't sound good. Glad I didn't listen to them.
It really depends on if the subs are designed for it or not. I’ve got two MTX 12” subs. Now, I’m young and I wanted to get an affordable pair, so I just went ahead and purchased the entire bass package from MTX, subs wired up in the enclosure already, all I had to do was power the amp and run it to the subs. (Btw, for $250, hot damn, they sound great, a pretty good deal) Anyway, I mostly listen to rap, and literally every one of my friends has said, “you need to port that box,” however, MTX designed those subs to work in a completely closed off enclosure. Like I said, whether or not it needs to be ported depends on how the subs are designed.
@@ethanobenauer7083 They make a ported mtx Terminator now if you wanna get a budget ported box. Though I have the ported while my friend doesn't and they sound basically identical mine flexes a little more but that's about it
CaptainSlapaHo - Yeah, I’ve tried mine in a ported and non ported box, but imo, they sound way better non ported.
What about shallow mouth subs compared to other subs how big of a difference is it?
Bout to deal with that, coming soon.
Great video very informative! Years ago I used to have a band pass box of two 10”s. I like to think out of the box and I have a question that no one seems to be able to answer me. My question is, can you put a sealed subwoofer box and have a separate box that has a band pass box? My thinking is have the nice clean sound of a sealed subwoofer yet also have it mixed with the raw behind the cone bass of a band pass box. What are your thoughts on that?
Thanks
This video just saved me a bunch of money. I was debating putting two on the same power as I did in a previous car but I sure can’t put four subs on four times the power. Thanks!
I never see the TH-cam info cards or in-video links to other videos on my phone. Note to self, find the one mentioned at 5:48 to learn more! 😎
Myth??? Adding batting material to the inside of the box, makes the box respond like a larger box???
What do you mean with batting material (my english is not good enough to know what it means) cause polyfill will do something like that
Adding acoustic fiber fill is intended to cause waveform scatter as the cone goes through its excursions. This will reduce parallel waveform reflections that can cause increases or decreases in loudness at specific frequencies, based on the tuning size of your enclosure.
Objectively - It can do if done correctly. But like everything else, if not done correctly, then the gains are minimal.
Myth-ish. Proper deadening/batting/box construction can make a small volume box sound better than a poorly made larger volume box, but not really make up for the lost airspace. If you were to swap out the oversized sub with one designed for the smaller, deadened box you would still get an additional improvement in sound quality ( if the speakers were otherwise the same).
It can help a subwoofer in a box that's SLIGHTLY too small for it to behave as if it were in a SLIGHTLY larger box.
My favourite myths are still the "gain is just a second volume knob", "bass boost..."(enough said) and "50W RMS, 561432598737948W Peak Power"...
Also, I've been trying to tell my friends some these when they tell me I'm just f*cking with them with the little 20L box ... yeah, you have a badly tuned cheap amp with a bigg ass plate in a big ass box taking up all the space in your trunk with no air to move, while I had everything measured in my 2 seater lunchbox, built the sub enclosure according to the manufacturer recommendations, then measured and tuned everything.. And then they look at me like I'm crazy.
He's not lying about the box dimensions.. A year ago my cousin got two 10" subs for his truck and they suffocated underneath the seats in an air tight box.. It sounded absolute garbage until he got a Jeep with a new box
Don't forget about vehicle specific sound resonance and acoustics. Each and every vehicle has its own cabin frequency. That's why my vehicle produces more decibels at 42hz rather than any other frequencies.
Is it true that if you live somewhere cold like Minnesota you can break your subs by playing them to loud without warming them up?
I left an 18 inch sub in the garage through a cold winter (several days below 20 degrees), and the neoprene ring stress cracked from just sitting there. I'd venture that movement while the ring is cold enough would tear it.
Captain Drizzle a subwoofer is just the sum of its materials. If something gets hot after it’s freezing cold, and then moved around violently, it sounds like it’s possible. That being said, car subs are made to withstand more than home subs. I’m sure mine get to over 100 degrees in my car on a hot day and they’re fine.
At -25 to -35 ish celsius on cold mornings it has not been a problem for me so far. Dont think ive ever come across someone whos done it either.
Kevin Stagmo yeah, you’re right.
if the air inside an air tight sub enclosure expands because of the heat from de voice coils, hence increasing pressure, i can see it pushing the cone out long enough to fall apart during maximum excursion. idk man, i'm hella high.
“Bigger subs are slower so they are better for rap hip hop, smaller subs are tighter so better for rock music”
This is a very common myth I hear frequently.
Heya. Nice job right there! I rather feel doubling the loudness sounds more like 6-7db to me, but whatever. You´re righ on spot.
CrashPCcz I've heard every 6db is 2x volume as well
Should make a video showing the sub box ported thru the ski hole of a car or ported thru the rear deck, firing into the cabin
I've done a build similar to this many years ago with an old Toyota Corolla and a 12" Pioneer IMPP sub that we inverted and had the port extending out and into the cabin but all hidden away. It sounded amazing.
6. 8" sub for the "high bass" 12" sub for that "low bass"
7. "If you're using 2 subs in the same box you should always invert the polarity."
8. "If you have a sealed box you are missing out on the low end"
9. "After going ported, my 8" sub now sounds like 2 12"s" - (you never heard how 2 proper 12s sound)
10. "if your trunk ain't rattling, it's not happening"; "more rattle = louder sub" - same people that think sound treatment is a waste of money and will make their system quieter.
6. Bigger subs handle lower bass better. an 8 wont move air like a 18
@@ImDultra Depends. What if the 8" has a larger voice coil and motor structure than the 12 or 18"? It would then get much louder and hit lower.
My subwoofer guy put paint on top of the gain controls and all that and said he put them exactly where they need to be, so don't touch them and he'll be able to tell if I messed with it because the paint would be cracked on the dials. Loved that guy
Q.) If you have are putting 2 subwoofers into 1 sealed box do you need to separate the 2 subwoofers or double the air volume required for each subwoofer?
Having divided chambers in a sealed box is a great idea.
double air. 1cuft3 per subs = 2cuft3 box
@@2869may blow one sub, and now the other sub sees TWICE the recommended air volume. The working sub will exhibit over excursion and get damaged.
@@RodofAllTrades Maybe you should think twice and research something until you comment about it. If you have a sealed box, with 2 divided chambers INSIDE then tell me how the sub would see twice the air volume. I really hope that you understand that the space between those two subs are sealed against each other.
You should punch the box full of holes and add 10000 watts to every Rockville tweet and 500000 watts to every Rockville sub
I love listening to classics on my system. Especially ones remade with bass guitar. Moonlight sonata on bass guitar sounds great 👍
White Clouds by Decaf!
@@iamzombie76 yep my fave
"if you want it ported, just cut a hole in it haha.." jfc.. beyond #3 is where the real stupidity happens.
I see what your saying with adding another subwoofer but that's why its imperative to do your research however, if your only utilizing a small portion of your Amps capabilities, it's the benefits of understanding your options when running your wires to a single sub even into a duel speaker setup as you can often get a smaller ohm rating and more power pending the type of amplifier your running. Providing you with more wattage to split between. But I get it your just explaining the basic misconceptions.
Good stuff bro!!! I literally, just explain this to someone yesterday!
My father earlier in the year bought a couple of vehicles to resell, and got one that had a dual subwoofer box and amp, and he said i could keep it, it worked but i did find that the box isn't in the best of conditions and doesn't properly seal as well as it did before, i want to stick with sealed, but i see a bunch of boxes on amazon that I've looked at, the main question is should i pay much attention to the box brand or just the volume of the box(along with the dimensions to make sure it fits), and make sure it would work with the subs and still sound good. As i found several different boxes, i found some that was $70 and others that was $200+, its for dual 12's
Before someone says to reseal the box i currently have, I have already tried that, and lasted around 2-3 weeks before happening again. The main problem is the edges of the box is deteriorating more and more the longer i keep it.
Myth. That you need big subwoofers for big bass.
There's no replacement for displacement, but if you place and tune the speakers correctly you can definitley get big bass.
with good 8's you can get very good sounding bass, they just won't rattle stuff like a 12" will. Hell, Bose home speakers makes good sounding base with 6.5" speakers, they just don't rattle anything. A car is the easiest place to make great sound. It is an enclosed space. SPL is sound pressure level, ie the more space the more level is needed to appear impressive.
Back in the late 80's when I competed, I built a few really great sounding systems with nothing larger than 8" subs. I ran an Orion 225HCCA driving 2 pairs of MBQuart 6.5" and tweeter separates and the Autotek 7050BTS driving a pair of Lanzar Pro sealed 10" subs in the 100w and under level. All in a mini truck. Won many titles with that setup.
Yes and no. But you need cone area to move air. That's just simple physics.
Mass weight and suspension has a lot to say as well.
Trust me, a 24 inch PD driver will do things just about any other pro 18 or 21 can only dream of. But iwll it be as fast? No, and not as articulate. But it will work great as an actual subwoofer. from about 60-70 hz and down.
Well, in a very simple sense, more come area equals more base. (I’m aware that that’s not the exact reason why, however, it is generally true) The larger the sub, the more cone area. However, it also just depends on quality. I have a relatively expensive set of 2 MTX 12” subs in my car, they sound good, hit hard and fast, and are amazing value for what they cost. However, my dad has 2 10” subs in his car that are wayyyyyy louder and produce ridiculous amounts more bass, can’t remember the brand but they’re some sort of badass made for competition subs. However, in the majority of cases, bigger subs do actually mean more bass.
The type of material in box construction should be addressed. I am a fan of 10s and used Trupan cabinet-grade for the enclosures in 2 of my cars. I paint the inside of my boxes with latex paint to prevent material "breathing". I love you information.
One good 10” or 12” and I’m set.
For the VAST majority of folks this works perfect! And there is nothing wrong with that!
From my experience with my 12" Diamond Audio, i agree with that. 12" if you have the space, 10" if you´re limited on space. I think anything above 15" is nonsense.
I agree, 10 inch JLW6 gives me a headache sometimes...
I ended up with a pair of Infinity Kappa 1000W 450 watt RMS 10" subs paired to a 1000 watt RMS Kenwood KAC-9106d amp. Metal and well mixed classic rock never sounded so good. Lamb of God - Blacken the Cursed Sun & Ted Nugent - Wang Dang Sweet Poontang for reference.
Running 2 10" classic MTX Black Gold subs in a Neon.
Plenty!! Remember to enclose your rear deck speakers to keep your subs from blowing them out!!
I love your channel, Mark! I watch it with my kids, which is something I can’t do with Doug’s channel. I wish his videos were a little more PG. Keep up the great work! You guys should do a colab some day!!!
so doubling the subwoofer drivers adds 3 db increase. am i right?
MD.Mamun ur Rashid Moon correct
with the same amp , yes. It adds 6db if driven by a second amp of equal power to the first. Every doubling of power adds 3 db and every adding of a same sized sub adds 3 db, so 6db total. I don't think he explained why it went to 6. So upping your amp output from 100w to 200w will add 3 db of SPL. Going from 200w to 400w will add 3 more. going from 400 to 800 will add 3 more. So going from 100w to 800w will add 9db if using the same sub. Easiest way to add DB, buy a really efficient sub to begin with. Don't buy the cheap 85db efficient sub, buy the much better ( and costs more ) 88db sub for $50 more and you gain 3 db just in sub performance. Back when I competed in the late 80's, pro subs were 94-98db efficient. We could get 120db from 200w amps. ( Amps were much more expensive and all were class a/b amps ) Now it takes 300w to 800w to get the same thing. Class D amps are cheaper so Subs have gotten less efficient.
When the subwoofers are stacked (coupled) or very close to each other it can add up to 6 DB this trick is used a lot in PA systems. Since low frequencies are omni directional any way you don’t necessarily need a stereo subwoofer setup. Because its going to be quite hard to hear where the sound is coming from anyway. Also in most mixes the kick drum and the bass guitar are panned dead center so there is no need for stereo anyhow. So thats why they are stacked, rather have the extra DB’s then have a stereo system that will likely not be used anyway.
Please tell us the difference between a single or a double coil woofer
Simplified explanation: it has 2 sets of connections, allowing it to be wired in multiple ohm configurations. It has two separate sets of windings, each is powered separately. To get more in depth, try googling SVC vs DVC.
My friend in your opinion Pioneer 80Prs or Alpine 149Bt for Sound Quality
80PRS! (99PRS IF YOU CAN LOL) and I'm an alpine guy lol
How to calculate, what size of subwoofer is best for Opel Astra 2006 hatchback? I like sound quality, and i want fast Base for rock music but sometimes i want lows also. Ive been thinking about two 10 inch with closed enclosure. What do you think? Thank you. :)
Thumbs up for bilingual skills. Saludos Amigo gracias por el video.
My 6.5inch subwoofer in the kitchen (with a 10inch passive radiator) which is around 50 watts can rattle my houses main front door. Only around 30-38hz though. It also rattles all draws and cabinets at 40hz and over.
myth#6...subwoofers are only for the ghettos not for school boys...😂🤣
I have 2 12s facing forward in a sealed internet box. 2019 Dodge charger. Plays well. Got my truck available for Dad life.
American bass Hawk series 12", and a Fosgate 1200 monoblock is an insane amount of bass. This is what I have and its over 140db. If u need more than that, You have my respect.
0:38
Dubstep brah
Got them bass shakin yr skull
It feels good
I added 2 JBL GX1200s and it didn’t do exactly what I thought it would but I’m honestly happier with the results I was kinda expecting it to completely outweigh my mids and my tweeters but honestly it works with them so well it almost increased the vocals as well as giving me that range I was missing
Just to clarify for the cheeeldren
He means the total interior air volume of the speaker cabinet/box, that can physically fit inside your vehicle.
Not the total air volume of your vehicle.
Great video,but no mention of transfer function
Should I upgrade jL tw3 go 13 tw5
Gabriel Borrego @ I love my three 10TW3’s seriously if their installed correctly their monstrous and yet so compact. Powering my three off just their HD750/1
You said tw3 go 13 huh?
I went from a single TW3 in a 0.5cf sealed box driven by a JL XD 600 amp to a TW5 in a 1.2cf sealed box driven by a Audio control 800.1 and they are VERY different. I love how deep the TW5 sounds by I do miss the tight punchy bass of the TW3.
What is the t in tw3, and tw5?
I put my subs in and wanted it to be loud enough to hear out side... I realized that I prefer the bass just loud enough to amplify the small bass lines you miss.
CEA rating subs lol
Myth number three. Sort of yes.
Here's the thing. It is often the case that a larger driver tends to be slower and a bit more lazy. Yes, you should of course consider the space you have, and the power you have. But still, two equally powerful and same quality subs, one a 12 and one an 18, will not sound the same. In many cases, the 12 is a great size because it does work better at higher frequencies, but it will still play low, but also fast. It is what it is, but the size has zero to do with music, and all to do with what you want to do with it.
should add that a larger sub *All things being equal* would sound louder at less power due to the larger surface area of the sub. You push more air....
Doug says you'll be bald before he will but I think he is wrong his hairline is way worse than yours what are your thoughts?
Bet u wouldn't say that to Douglas face nanana bobo
Leave the man alone
Air volume not music determines correct sub size. Great point bro!
Help with design with deepest bass and I'm wanting a wall up with hole inside will had speakers every possible place
I was literally about to buy a Rockville RTB10A and then I read the comments. What is so bad about Rockville? Why should I not invest in Rockville? I have a 2012 reg can Tacoma and I want a 10. What route should I take?
I honestly winged my whole system, bought it piece by piece but it sounds really good, I haven't adjusted my amplifier to proper setting, I've never blown any speakers nor started fires, but I feel like there is more potential I am missing out on
Same here. If you're able to move the box around, you should try positioning it so that there's like a horn effect. That seemed to help for me
just learned that last one, i am slowly building a system for my vehicle, i started with new 6x8's front and back, they have been running off my factory head unit for 8 months now while i have been collecting the other parts for my new set up, i got the sub, amp new head unit and everything all here and i blew my front 6x8's 2 weeks ago, i didn't figure my deck put out enough to blow the speakers so i went on a 2 hour drive with bass bumping and it was sounding real good, then pop goes the speakers, now here i am buying new 6x8's again when i should be using the money to get an amp kit and what not.
How can one check if there sub box has enough air volume I have a under seat box in a pick up but I don’t think they have enough air or power
measure HxLxW and subtract add the thickness of the mdf
Did a system many moons ago, a friend with a van. He didn't want a box, he needed all his space. Put (2)12s and 3 tweeters in 1/2 inch mdf, 1 1/2inch spacer rings in his rear doors, sealed with silicone with ports and some foam under the plate. Made it look like a gemsound dj speaker with the black grill and charcoal felt. It sounded like he had 2 bazookas. He was happy, probably deaf now.
A lot of these myths apply to home stereo. Myth: the bass will overwhelm everything and sound unnatural. No, not if you use a crossover correctly. The sub does nothing unless there is bass content.
Single skar evl 15 in a Veloster, lol. It does fine. If I get this maverick at the end of September I'll have to figure out because it won't sit on the floor. And on the back seat is debatable.
I heard that "smaller wires shoot the watts further like a small hose squirts water further and that makes the system louder". The same person also said that "He uses speaker wire for ground because all the watts are used up by the time the exit the amplifier". People also say Myth #1 a lot and that I don't want all that bass over my music. They think adding a subwoofer is the same as turning up the bass control on the radio except louder.
Wow. My head hurts even reading your comment of what this person had to say! 😢
research the skin effect. Smaller wire has more resistance at higher power levels creating more heat. heat= power lost.
@@CotyRiddleThis was a guy at a garage showing me his system, not me. I know about skin effect on dc vs ac and frequency and skin vs core conduction already but thanks for the info anyway.
How would i build a custom box in a 2003 ford f250 single cab behind the seat pick up truck. I have shallow skar vd 12in subs, mounting depth of 4.92 in, they need 1.00ft³ per sub sealed, or 1.75ft³ ported, displacement .10ft³. Rite now i have 2 atrend bbox truck boxes at .80 ft³ per box minus the .10ft³ for displacement of each sub so .70ft³ per box per sub rite now on a alpine mrp 4501.d, and it sounds better than i ever thought. Now i bought a skar skv2 1500.1D amplifier and i think im going to need new boxes or a new single box with the added power. What are you thoughts and recommendations. Sealed, ported. I like crisp clean sq notes where you can hear every note in the song no matter the frequency. The subs handle 500wrms and 800wmax each. How would i go about building a box that will still leave me plenty of leg room and comfort for snowplowing long hours in a small single cab f250. Any thoughts would be awesome, or a place who can build one at a affordable price, or a good prefabed box that will be 1.10ft³ per sub, hit every note with authority, leave my truck totally work friendly, and be able to handle all the power. Thanks much
OK brother I got 2 12" subs rated @3000 and 2 amps rated @40001 Amp rated1000 for tweeters.is it to much or not enough? Going in a Chevy van full size. How am I doing on it. I want the thing to blow stuff up.
I personally have had a great experience with bazooka tube woofers specifically the bta6100 and the bta10250. Really good price for my need.
adding +10 in the base channel makes the sound nice and strong and I drive it daylie with that EQ setting.
litteraly every "oh I'm so cool" person I know 😂
Pushing the bass eq on a fac radio if you have a sub installed actually works...but not cranked all the way up obviously.
The funny faced thumbnail is a winner. Everyone likes to laugh 🤪