Good stuff. I've been using these techniques for a few seasons since first watching this video. After a few years, I've picked up a few things: It might be important to point out that this level of waxing/scraping/brushing/polishing is for someone racing. If you did all of this and then hit your favorite resort, your board would need a new wax after half a day of riding. There would be no more wax left because all that brushing has already removed 75% of the wax. That's what you want if you're competing. But he's probably not taking this board through the trees during low tide or doing 30,000 vert. in one day with it. I'm not saying you want to leave a ton of wax on your board, but you can certainly over-brush. Comes down to your specific application. I hot-crayon on the wax, iron in one pass (you can do two for more longevity with Swix), scrape, then brush with bronze, horsehair, and finish with fine nylon. I don't go as technical with it with extra brushes or rotos. Great because I can do a couple of long 20K - 30K vertical foot days in a row without needing another wax. The base holds up to different terrain and possible hits to tree roots or rocks. And it's still plenty fast to blow by skiers on flats. But I'm not competing for tenths of a second in a comp.
Thanks! Very useful. My understanding is that a bronze brush is good for the prewax stage if you’re changing wax or doing a pre/post season wax… but too abrasive or not necessary for the post wax brush, and just sticking to the nylon and horsehair brushes?
@@JonGPxl A coarse bronze brush is what you're talking about. A soft/fine bronze brush is good for post-wax, before a softer/finer final brush like nylon or animal hair. Just depends on how deep down the rabbit hole you want to go with it.
This is literally the best snowboard waxing vid I have ever seen. I've been snowboarding for 30 years and I just learned so much that will save me time.
Seeing that shine on that board is a whole another level of satisfaction. Been waxing my stuff for over eight years now and this video was really helpful with getting my waxgame to another level.
Tommie....., great tutorial. Once you go roto, you'll never go back. A 300mm roto brush as well is even faster. The most important tip as Tommie said is to have a sharp scraper. Sharpen it crisp to 90 degrees before every board you do as the edges round off the scraper quickly. A sharp scraper works soooooo much faster. A little tip is you can buy a 300mm flat bastard file from hardware store and put it in a woodworking vice with timber jaws and slide the perspex scraper across the file. You'll get a magic result. Clean the file with a wire brush to take out the perspex out off the cutting structure. I have a ToKo scraper sharpener and the file works heaps better. You can go to a plastic supplier and grab a scrap off cut of 5mm perspex and cut your own scraper on a bandsaw. I got a piece for free and could make probably 20 scrapers out of it. You can make them bigger in size than retail for a more comfortable fit in the hand and better performance.
@@petehelme7714 P-tex base repair.The # 1 tool to use is a P-TEX GUN,,some are priced in the medium range and some are priced VERY HIGH.Never ask a snowboard shop, they'll tell you there highly expensive and might throw you a figure which is a lie,they just don't want you to buy one.If you get a deal on one don't tell your favorite snowboard shop.
I really wish there were more highly detailed videos like this on all different types of snowboard maintenance. I've been looking to really up my game in maintaining my carving/racing boards and prepping them for what I plan to ride that day/week. There aren't many videos out there that get highly detailed on the how and why and how to do it the best way possible. Excellent video
Also if it is possible a nerdy video with Senna Leith covering how to keep in shape for pre-season, summer, and winter. The diet and the exercise daily meals (kcal?) keeping in form. Thank you for the video again.
That crayoning technique looks great. Always hate how much wax i waste normally. Bout to go buy a scraper sharpener and an actually wax iron here soon.
I thought that i was a decent waxer....... None of my friends do board prep. Now I am going to prep a brand new board this season and I am going to fly. this is a legit informative video. Its good to talk about the different levels that you can achieve. well done!!!!!
I already have a waxing kit, but this video made me buy a purl waxing kit and a selection of waxes. Very cool. Thanks Tommie for all your awesome videos and info. :)
Hands down, one of the best snowboard waxing videos on the interwebs. Well covered and explained. Just popped on my recommended videos and after watching, very well done and the explanations will make sense for people new to the process and those that have been doing it for a while. People need to keep in mind, there is no one right way to do it. Many wrong ways and this one isn't one of those. Now time to get ready for the big dump headed to the PNW.
Jeez, here I thought my waxing method was nerdy but I learned more with this video and going to apply it to my methodology. Thanks Tommie and Senna, Happy Holidays.
Love the video boys! Any chance we can get a brush, wax, iron and overall waxing equipment list that you used here? Need to upgrade my setup and this video got me inspired 🙌
Swix T77 iron, steel brush, brass brush, boar's hair brush, stiff nylon brush and soft nylon brush, any sharp scraper will work. Correct temp wax. Roto brush if you have money to burn... 99.9% of people don't need that. You can get a Swix pro snowboarding vice and clamp it on to almost anything. Not a full list of everything he's using, but most people don't need everything he's using. I have never roto'ed, but I'm not on the US boarder cross team. I don't use a steel brush. I use brass, boar's hair and nylon. I've been using the same brushes for 30 years. My iron is 10 years old. Maintain your equipment and it will last a very long time. Spend once, cry once. The art is getting all the dirt off the board so the wax sticks as well as possible. Don't let your board dry out, dirt will invade the structure when you ride and require more effort cleaning. Don't skip brushing before you wax. You don't want to trap dirt into your base. Even a sloppy wax job is better than a dry board. Take your time and don't rush. I've rarely used base cleaner. I have hot scraped many times to pull out dirt. They didn't cover that in this video. There are many opinions on how to do it and this is just one that is proven for him. Find what works for you. Start with basic equipment and add to it as you get a feel for how you want to do it. I waxed with a clothes iron for decades until it burned out. It's all about temp control and keeping the process as even as possible on your base. Same theory applies, 2-3 inches of melted wax as you progress with the iron. If the wet streak is longer than that your either going too slow or the iron is too hot. Different temp waxes need different temps on the iron but generally between 110F and 140F. Good rule is if the wax is smoking on the iron. it is too hot. On cheaper irons the temps will vary greatly from what temp is set at. The Swix iron doesn't vary as greatly due to the thick base plate. Consistency is king. I store my boards with wax on, unscraped. I hot scrape at the beginning of the season to remove the old wax and dirt from storage and rewax. Different types of snow require different types of structure in your board. They didn't touch on that in this video. Like I said, develop your process and find what works for you in your riding style, and where you ride. Base structure and waxing is as much of an art as it is a science. Your local shop can usually help you understand what works best for your snow conditions. All my boards are at least 4000 sintered bases. Look into getting a stone grind if you need structure. It makes a difference, but you have to stay up on your waxing. Again, consistency is the game here. Removing variables keeps the process smooth. Do it the same every time unless you're adding in new steps or trying to refine your process. I use a roll of blue shop towels instead of the white fabric he is using. Not quite as good, but a heck of a lot less expensive and multipurpose. I'm not trying to shave 10th's of a second off my decent. You can also use a horsehair bench brush to lightly brush off the extracted wax after brushing, or a clean (new) microfiber towel rolled up in similar fashion in this video. Enjoy the waxing rabbit hole, but remember most people just need the basics. A few years too late perhaps, but I hope this helps someone.
Decent Porsche too, to cruise up the mountain to the resorts :-D Cool video, as a computer nerd, I love nerdy stuff in all walks of life. Great to see this.
P-Tex is also a highly crystalline polymer that’s generally formed by sintering (basically, a process of heating and compressing a powder to make it a solid). The high degree of crystallinity is what gives P-Tex its strength, while the sintering process causes the polymer chains to line up in both a uniform structure and a grain pattern. This crystallinity, along with the UHMW polyethylene chains, make P-Tex hard (resistant to impacts) yet very porous and able to accept wax. "These are the key concepts: Wax can dissolve in the amorphous polyethylene regions as sugar dissolves in coffee. It does not go in the holes of the base as is stated in some manuals. More heat and more time means that more wax dissolves in the polyethylene until you reach the maximum capacity. When the base heats up it absorbs wax; when it cools down it expels wax. Softer waxes have lower melting points and are smaller in size, so they dissolve more easily and penetrate deeper than harder waxes." "The polyethylene base is made from hydrocarbon building blocks. If the blocks are connected linearly, the chains pack very closely and the polyethylene does not absorb wax. This is called a crystalline region. If there is some branching the chains are not packed very closely and there is some room between them for wax to be absorbed. This is called an amorphous region." "Both crystalline and amorphous regions are present in a base, around 50-50 in a competition grade base."
A MUST WATCH for anyone that rides more than a few times a year! This is fantastic! Such a hugely helpful video. Long, but 100% worth it if you're trying to learn to tune your boards yourself. Sharing with all my friends. Only question I have is where does a scouring pad come in? I just brushed my board until almost nothing came up and it was nice and shiny, then used a scouring pad (the one that comes with the Demon kit so I don't know how fine it is), and the scouring pad made the base hazy again. Seems like maybe I did it backwards? Thanks TB!
In our shop we let people/friends wax their own. We figured out the hottest temp that wouldn't smoke and glued the switch. Not perfect but from an era when thrift store clothes irons were about all we had. I believe it's still a good rule of thumb.
This is so awesome Tommy thank you 🙏 I’m another vote for an edging vid too as I like to do my own boards 👍 still trying to keep my UnInc board going 🤭😂
What an awesome video! I love the nerdiness. I have always gone to alpine skiiers to learn as most as possible as snowboarders dont seem to be interrested in tuning the gear. My boards are just so much more fun to ride when they are sold taken care of. Please do a vid about edges! I would also love a vid with Senna going throug his stance angles and width, binding placement and tuning of bindings and boots for boardercross. How the racers do their carves getting really nerdy would also be awesome!
Hell yeah awesome waxing video. I DEF wanna see tommie and senna shred together in the park, in the trees, and off side hits!! haha DONT BE THAT GUY ON THAT CATWALK!!
Love that video. I'm impressed how detailed it is. But I got confused, if wax is sticked to the plastic (not soaked) why scraping and brushing doesn't remove it completely? And why scrap and brush so much? Then waxing would be pointless.
Great video! But, are you not afraid of damaging the edges when using the steel brush? I`ve learned that when using a steel brush, you need to make sure you avoid brushing the edges. Any tip on this very particular topic, Senna? Best wishes from Norway.
Nice! I think I will stick with three brushes. However I didn’t know one should take that much wax off before and after the hot wax. I can’t wait to try this with the crayon method.
Purl has a starter kit for $120ish. But it only has 1 brush. I guess we can use that same brush for the scraping in the beginning and end? I'm not trying to win world cups. I'm just trying to link turns. Only went snowboarding once and fell in love. So bought all my gear and first snowboard. I assumed we wax once a season but when I googled I saw every 3 to 4 days. My trip in 2 days is exactly that. So I guess factory wax will get me by. But I'll need to wax it after my trip. I live in FL :( so it's not like I can snowboard every weekend. So I assume for me that starter kit should be fine? It doesn't have a board cleaner for step 1 though. So I guess I'll need to add that to the cart.
Thanks for the detailed video!!! Question: Does something changes if my snowboard has no structure? (which is the case for most people, single snowboard for all seasons without structure). I already heard that it should just use a nylon brush and that a steel would be a overkill once there are no watter channels to be cleaned.
Hi Tommy in the video when Senna uses the iron to melt the wax he doesn't explain what the ideal temperature of the iron should be, what it might be in your opinion. Thank you very much and congratulations for the videos you make, I always follow you from Italy
Tommy stated in the video whatever the wax is rated for. Most waxes will show what your iron will be. Generally a range of 120-150 depending on the temp of your wax.
I would love to see a comparison with good wax vs a ceramic application. In theory, it should be thinner than wax with less friction coefficient, and potentially broader temperature range.
If there is one thing that did confuse me in this video is the comment about it sticking to the board and not going into the board One of the professional tuners in my area whose developed products for burton and done tuning for a long time has told me the wax goes deep into the pellets or pores of the polyethelyne base.
Yea I agree with him being wrong about it. I believe sintered bases are quite porous but extruded is quite flat and non absorbent. Common sense too says if there are no pores and we are taking all the wax off then we are REALLY taking off ALL the wax so why bother. Must be pores that absorb wax.
i still have a question, is it really necessary to wax the board if you are not so keen on velocity? (im actually pretty scared to wax it and going to fast to control my board)
Yes you still want to. For the sale of Glide. It actually makes it easier to turn and thus BE in more control. But yea sure I agree I don’t fly( I’m actually quite slow) and aim for max control.
20:20 Senna is talking about "this is a nice iron" and that you take care of things that are nice, but if you applied that mentality to everything you own it too will last a very long time. Here is something to chew on for when someone comes and reads this in the year 2035.
Yeah, I got a steel brush from a dollar store, but it looks pretty gnarly and I’m hesitant to actually use it on my base. Oh! “Crayoning” the wax on, that looks like a good idea.
Steel brush, steel roto, then fine steel. Awesome video, but this dude is ocd on another level for racing. Would like to see this done to an average board.
You should do a nerdy video on tuning edges too
true.
Yeah
Let's gooooo
Agree!
For sure. I learned a lot on this one.
Good stuff. I've been using these techniques for a few seasons since first watching this video. After a few years, I've picked up a few things: It might be important to point out that this level of waxing/scraping/brushing/polishing is for someone racing. If you did all of this and then hit your favorite resort, your board would need a new wax after half a day of riding. There would be no more wax left because all that brushing has already removed 75% of the wax. That's what you want if you're competing. But he's probably not taking this board through the trees during low tide or doing 30,000 vert. in one day with it. I'm not saying you want to leave a ton of wax on your board, but you can certainly over-brush. Comes down to your specific application.
I hot-crayon on the wax, iron in one pass (you can do two for more longevity with Swix), scrape, then brush with bronze, horsehair, and finish with fine nylon. I don't go as technical with it with extra brushes or rotos. Great because I can do a couple of long 20K - 30K vertical foot days in a row without needing another wax. The base holds up to different terrain and possible hits to tree roots or rocks. And it's still plenty fast to blow by skiers on flats. But I'm not competing for tenths of a second in a comp.
Thanks! Very useful. My understanding is that a bronze brush is good for the prewax stage if you’re changing wax or doing a pre/post season wax… but too abrasive or not necessary for the post wax brush, and just sticking to the nylon and horsehair brushes?
@@JonGPxl A coarse bronze brush is what you're talking about. A soft/fine bronze brush is good for post-wax, before a softer/finer final brush like nylon or animal hair. Just depends on how deep down the rabbit hole you want to go with it.
Skip the brass brush for polishing, just use nylon then horse hair or just one of em
Finally!!! A waxing video that gives all the technical data on waxing and the Q/A along with it. Thanks bro!!! Always making killer content.
Yewww
This is literally the best snowboard waxing vid I have ever seen. I've been snowboarding for 30 years and I just learned so much that will save me time.
Waxing with an Olympian? Tommie, you continue to put out some of the best content on TH-cam.
Love the nerdiness. Pre-rubbing the wax on is a great tip.
Seeing that shine on that board is a whole another level of satisfaction. Been waxing my stuff for over eight years now and this video was really helpful with getting my waxgame to another level.
Tommie....., great tutorial.
Once you go roto, you'll never go back. A 300mm roto brush as well is even faster.
The most important tip as Tommie said is to have a sharp scraper. Sharpen it crisp to 90 degrees before every board you do as the edges round off the scraper quickly. A sharp scraper works soooooo much faster.
A little tip is you can buy a 300mm flat bastard file from hardware store and put it in a woodworking vice with timber jaws and slide the perspex scraper across the file. You'll get a magic result. Clean the file with a wire brush to take out the perspex out off the cutting structure. I have a ToKo scraper sharpener and the file works heaps better.
You can go to a plastic supplier and grab a scrap off cut of 5mm perspex and cut your own scraper on a bandsaw. I got a piece for free and could make probably 20 scrapers out of it. You can make them bigger in size than retail for a more comfortable fit in the hand and better performance.
Please do a nerdy video about sharpening edges!!
Yes, this would be helpful🙏🏼
and P-Tex and base repair. ;)
@@petehelme7714 P-tex base repair.The # 1 tool to use is a P-TEX GUN,,some are priced in the medium range and some are priced VERY HIGH.Never ask a snowboard shop, they'll tell you there highly expensive and might throw you a figure which is a lie,they just don't want you to buy one.If you get a deal on one don't tell your favorite snowboard shop.
I really wish there were more highly detailed videos like this on all different types of snowboard maintenance. I've been looking to really up my game in maintaining my carving/racing boards and prepping them for what I plan to ride that day/week. There aren't many videos out there that get highly detailed on the how and why and how to do it the best way possible. Excellent video
Most nerdy, most informative waxing video on youtube that I caught so far. Thanks for the content. Cheers from Turkiye.
Also if it is possible a nerdy video with Senna Leith covering how to keep in shape for pre-season, summer, and winter. The diet and the exercise daily meals (kcal?) keeping in form. Thank you for the video again.
The little show of mutual respect around 25:00 was adorable! Also helpful waxing tips and information ❤
You wax it every 2-3 days. Here I am with my board which hasn't seen new wax in almost 10 years...
That crayoning technique looks great. Always hate how much wax i waste normally. Bout to go buy a scraper sharpener and an actually wax iron here soon.
This is actually a video that I have been looking for, for years. Many thanks, perfectly helpful!
Hands down, by far, best waxing/CLEANING video. Thanks
I thought that i was a decent waxer....... None of my friends do board prep. Now I am going to prep a brand new board this season and I am going to fly. this is a legit informative video. Its good to talk about the different levels that you can achieve. well done!!!!!
I already have a waxing kit, but this video made me buy a purl waxing kit and a selection of waxes. Very cool. Thanks Tommie for all your awesome videos and info. :)
Very informative with the explanations behind the "why". I agree, would love to see one on edge tuning best practices.
Hands down, one of the best snowboard waxing videos on the interwebs. Well covered and explained. Just popped on my recommended videos and after watching, very well done and the explanations will make sense for people new to the process and those that have been doing it for a while. People need to keep in mind, there is no one right way to do it. Many wrong ways and this one isn't one of those. Now time to get ready for the big dump headed to the PNW.
So good link up with you man 🤙 time to go shred now!
That iron is epic, so glad I got a snowboard-specific iron. Years of goodwill clothing iron . Real tool worth it IMHO
The best waxing video I've seen so far. Thanks!
Just need another follow up with nerdy edge tuning!
Thanks for the video Tommie!
Scraper sharpener tip alone deserves five stars! Started using it after this video and WOW that is a game changer. Greetings from Finland!
Love your videos. Just went for the first time in 10 years, now im obsessed.
This might just be the best waxing video on TH-cam
Jeez, here I thought my waxing method was nerdy but I learned more with this video and going to apply it to my methodology.
Thanks Tommie and Senna, Happy Holidays.
Thnx for the nerdiness, you guys rock, I'm waxing my boards like this now for shure :)
Best waxing vid I've come across. Thank you!
Tommy asking the questions we didn’t know we needed the answers to 😂 switching from tip to tail to tail to tip “but why doe?”
Love the video boys! Any chance we can get a brush, wax, iron and overall waxing equipment list that you used here? Need to upgrade my setup and this video got me inspired 🙌
Swix T77 iron, steel brush, brass brush, boar's hair brush, stiff nylon brush and soft nylon brush, any sharp scraper will work. Correct temp wax. Roto brush if you have money to burn... 99.9% of people don't need that. You can get a Swix pro snowboarding vice and clamp it on to almost anything.
Not a full list of everything he's using, but most people don't need everything he's using. I have never roto'ed, but I'm not on the US boarder cross team. I don't use a steel brush. I use brass, boar's hair and nylon. I've been using the same brushes for 30 years. My iron is 10 years old. Maintain your equipment and it will last a very long time. Spend once, cry once. The art is getting all the dirt off the board so the wax sticks as well as possible. Don't let your board dry out, dirt will invade the structure when you ride and require more effort cleaning. Don't skip brushing before you wax. You don't want to trap dirt into your base. Even a sloppy wax job is better than a dry board. Take your time and don't rush. I've rarely used base cleaner.
I have hot scraped many times to pull out dirt. They didn't cover that in this video. There are many opinions on how to do it and this is just one that is proven for him. Find what works for you. Start with basic equipment and add to it as you get a feel for how you want to do it. I waxed with a clothes iron for decades until it burned out. It's all about temp control and keeping the process as even as possible on your base. Same theory applies, 2-3 inches of melted wax as you progress with the iron. If the wet streak is longer than that your either going too slow or the iron is too hot. Different temp waxes need different temps on the iron but generally between 110F and 140F. Good rule is if the wax is smoking on the iron. it is too hot. On cheaper irons the temps will vary greatly from what temp is set at. The Swix iron doesn't vary as greatly due to the thick base plate. Consistency is king.
I store my boards with wax on, unscraped. I hot scrape at the beginning of the season to remove the old wax and dirt from storage and rewax.
Different types of snow require different types of structure in your board. They didn't touch on that in this video. Like I said, develop your process and find what works for you in your riding style, and where you ride. Base structure and waxing is as much of an art as it is a science. Your local shop can usually help you understand what works best for your snow conditions.
All my boards are at least 4000 sintered bases. Look into getting a stone grind if you need structure. It makes a difference, but you have to stay up on your waxing. Again, consistency is the game here. Removing variables keeps the process smooth. Do it the same every time unless you're adding in new steps or trying to refine your process.
I use a roll of blue shop towels instead of the white fabric he is using. Not quite as good, but a heck of a lot less expensive and multipurpose. I'm not trying to shave 10th's of a second off my decent. You can also use a horsehair bench brush to lightly brush off the extracted wax after brushing, or a clean (new) microfiber towel rolled up in similar fashion in this video.
Enjoy the waxing rabbit hole, but remember most people just need the basics. A few years too late perhaps, but I hope this helps someone.
Best video on waxing. Would love to see a cut version of simple to the point step by step.
Decent Porsche too, to cruise up the mountain to the resorts :-D Cool video, as a computer nerd, I love nerdy stuff in all walks of life. Great to see this.
Thanks Tommie for the wax Vblog.. so good to see the nerd come out in full.. mad how much can go into waxing.. :-)
Great video. That base structure is 🔥
Senna is the man when it comes to going fast.
Best waxing video ever! Just bought a sharpener & a new scraper, thanks Tommie!🙏🏼
EXACTLY what I needed. Thanks Bro!
P-Tex is also a highly crystalline polymer that’s generally formed by sintering (basically, a process of heating and compressing a powder to make it a solid). The high degree of crystallinity is what gives P-Tex its strength, while the sintering process causes the polymer chains to line up in both a uniform structure and a grain pattern. This crystallinity, along with the UHMW polyethylene chains, make P-Tex hard (resistant to impacts) yet very porous and able to accept wax. "These are the key concepts:
Wax can dissolve in the amorphous polyethylene regions as sugar dissolves in coffee. It does not go in the holes of the base as is stated in some manuals.
More heat and more time means that more wax dissolves in the polyethylene until you reach the maximum capacity.
When the base heats up it absorbs wax; when it cools down it expels wax.
Softer waxes have lower melting points and are smaller in size, so they dissolve more easily and penetrate deeper than harder waxes."
"The polyethylene base is made from hydrocarbon building blocks. If the blocks are connected linearly, the chains pack very closely and the polyethylene does not absorb wax. This is called a crystalline region.
If there is some branching the chains are not packed very closely and there is some room between them for wax to be absorbed. This is called an amorphous region."
"Both crystalline and amorphous regions are present in a base, around 50-50 in a competition grade base."
Thank you for this. There's been so many different explanations, but finally this makes sense.
A MUST WATCH for anyone that rides more than a few times a year! This is fantastic! Such a hugely helpful video. Long, but 100% worth it if you're trying to learn to tune your boards yourself. Sharing with all my friends.
Only question I have is where does a scouring pad come in? I just brushed my board until almost nothing came up and it was nice and shiny, then used a scouring pad (the one that comes with the Demon kit so I don't know how fine it is), and the scouring pad made the base hazy again. Seems like maybe I did it backwards?
Thanks TB!
Super awesome video! Soooo.... Question: horse/boar hair before nylon brush? I though the hair one was last (27:45)
I like gettin nerdy with the sht I’m into🤙🏻 you just changed my wax game. Good looks my dood.
In our shop we let people/friends wax their own. We figured out the hottest temp that wouldn't smoke and glued the switch. Not perfect but from an era when thrift store clothes irons were about all we had. I believe it's still a good rule of thumb.
That’s pretty cool they allow that! My local resort is more like
“ … what’s wax??”
This is so awesome Tommy thank you 🙏 I’m another vote for an edging vid too as I like to do my own boards 👍 still trying to keep my UnInc board going 🤭😂
What an awesome video! I love the nerdiness. I have always gone to alpine skiiers to learn as most as possible as snowboarders dont seem to be interrested in tuning the gear. My boards are just so much more fun to ride when they are sold taken care of.
Please do a vid about edges!
I would also love a vid with Senna going throug his stance angles and width, binding placement and tuning of bindings and boots for boardercross.
How the racers do their carves getting really nerdy would also be awesome!
Seriously great vid. Been waxing on my own for 20+ years and I learned so much! Let's see that edge sharpening nerd fest!
This is amazing! Its gonna make my board so much faster! Thanks so much for all the knowledge!
That was awesome nerdyness! I would like to see how you wax and scrape a 3d shaped board like several Bataleon boards and the new Burton 3d line.
That base structure tho ... the nerdier the better. I wish more snowboarders were into teching and taking care of their gear!
Just waxed my board for first time few days ago. Felt like I wasn't doing it right. Now to see how I can improve my waxing game.
You absolute geeks, great video!!!
Best waxing video on TH-cam 🏂
Yes for edge tuning! Especially beaten and scraped edges with less than professional tools!
Thanks so much for this video. I’m glad to finally learn how to wax a Snowboad right
Waxed my board for the first time using this video as a guide. Now I can be as fast as the US National team haha. Thanks guys!
Did the board go fast?
Great video, my lord 🙏🏻 what a finish on a board, thank you both for a very informative video sending love, peace and good energy ❤️🙏🏻
Hell yeah awesome waxing video. I DEF wanna see tommie and senna shred together in the park, in the trees, and off side hits!! haha DONT BE THAT GUY ON THAT CATWALK!!
Love that video. I'm impressed how detailed it is. But I got confused, if wax is sticked to the plastic (not soaked) why scraping and brushing doesn't remove it completely? And why scrap and brush so much? Then waxing would be pointless.
12:20 왁스 문대기
13:20 왁스 바르기
15:50 다림질
23:45 스크래핑
26:10 솔질
Awesome detailed video, THX!!! What temperature did he use for waxing?
Yeee edges and overlay videos pleas best waxing video out right here
The most satisfying wax video ever
Great video! But, are you not afraid of damaging the edges when using the steel brush? I`ve learned that when using a steel brush, you need to make sure you avoid brushing the edges. Any tip on this very particular topic, Senna? Best wishes from Norway.
Nice! I think I will stick with three brushes. However I didn’t know one should take that much wax off before and after the hot wax. I can’t wait to try this with the crayon method.
Please do an elaborated video on edge tuning 🥰
Love this video. Learned a lot. Now I gotta go buy more stuff…. 😂
My guy really dressed like it's sub zero temps in that shop. Got the puffy coat zipped up over the hoodie, with the hood pulled over his beanie. 😂
Awesome video! Do you possibly have a link for the metal hand brush you used in the beginning?
i need more in depth videos like this about snowboarding! too many people over look the little things
Awesome video Tommie!!!
@Senna Leith where can one purchase the SVST products that you are using? GREAT video Tommie!!!
Purl has a starter kit for $120ish. But it only has 1 brush. I guess we can use that same brush for the scraping in the beginning and end?
I'm not trying to win world cups. I'm just trying to link turns.
Only went snowboarding once and fell in love. So bought all my gear and first snowboard. I assumed we wax once a season but when I googled I saw every 3 to 4 days.
My trip in 2 days is exactly that. So I guess factory wax will get me by. But I'll need to wax it after my trip.
I live in FL :(
so it's not like I can snowboard every weekend.
So I assume for me that starter kit should be fine?
It doesn't have a board cleaner for step 1 though. So I guess I'll need to add that to the cart.
Thanks for the detailed video!!! Question: Does something changes if my snowboard has no structure? (which is the case for most people, single snowboard for all seasons without structure). I already heard that it should just use a nylon brush and that a steel would be a overkill once there are no watter channels to be cleaned.
Awesome content!
How do you not stick in warm spring conditions though!?
Heck yeah Tommie, changed my wax game, thanks!!
I literally use a 13 dollar clothing iron from goodwill
5:30 reminds me of that one scene in the surfs up movie 😂
do you throw away the scrapings? Or can it be reused for the next waxing?
You can reuse it countless times but you may want to pick up a scrapper sharpener to help the overall life and function of the scrappern
Hey man put a list together of the products to buy in this video
Man I follow Senna he's a sick snowboarder 🤟 great video as always my man
perfect timing cuz i got a wax kit for christmas
Hi Tommy in the video when Senna uses the iron to melt the wax he doesn't explain what the ideal temperature of the iron should be, what it might be in your opinion. Thank you very much and congratulations for the videos you make, I always follow you from Italy
Tommy stated in the video whatever the wax is rated for. Most waxes will show what your iron will be. Generally a range of 120-150 depending on the temp of your wax.
I would love to see a comparison with good wax vs a ceramic application. In theory, it should be thinner than wax with less friction coefficient, and potentially broader temperature range.
Tremendous video. Even if I never wax to this extreme level it’s fascinating to see what the highest level athletes do.
Liked this instruction video very much. Would you be so kind to also make the same nerdy one on sharpening/tuning the edges? Thanks in advance.
If there is one thing that did confuse me in this video is the comment about it sticking to the board and not going into the board One of the professional tuners in my area whose developed products for burton and done tuning for a long time has told me the wax goes deep into the pellets or pores of the polyethelyne base.
Yea I agree with him being wrong about it. I believe sintered bases are quite porous but extruded is quite flat and non absorbent. Common sense too says if there are no pores and we are taking all the wax off then we are REALLY taking off ALL the wax so why bother. Must be pores that absorb wax.
Are scrapers really necessary or will a plastic card work just as well?
Great video!! Loved it!
Thnx for the info... Do boards normally come from the factory pre waxed?? And do I need to wax more than once for a laid back three days of riding?
I thought I did a really good job waxing my board... until I watched you guys getting down with it.
After letting the wax cool, can you iron it again for better results, before scraping and brushing?
Youll just have to let it cool again.
Love the details and the approach to waxing a board!! Definitely will try out these tips and techniques 🤓
Love this tommie guy
i still have a question, is it really necessary to wax the board if you are not so keen on velocity? (im actually pretty scared to wax it and going to fast to control my board)
I wax also for consistency to make the board/snow more predictable and easier to ride especially in the spring etc.
Yes you still want to. For the sale of Glide. It actually makes it easier to turn and thus BE in more control. But yea sure I agree I don’t fly( I’m actually quite slow) and aim for max control.
20:20 Senna is talking about "this is a nice iron" and that you take care of things that are nice, but if you applied that mentality to everything you own it too will last a very long time. Here is something to chew on for when someone comes and reads this in the year 2035.
Yeah, I got a steel brush from a dollar store, but it looks pretty gnarly and I’m hesitant to actually use it on my base. Oh! “Crayoning” the wax on, that looks like a good idea.
Duuuude! This is SICK!
Steel brush, steel roto, then fine steel. Awesome video, but this dude is ocd on another level for racing. Would like to see this done to an average board.
Can you re-shoot this video but also have a thermal camera to see how nerdy the heat is being applied to the board.