Is resin 3D printing worth it? (Elegoo Mars Review)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 พ.ค. 2024
- The Elegoo Mars is a nice resin 3D printer - but is resin 3D printing nice? 🤷♂️
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Small correction on the NordVPN integration by someone who actually knows this stuff: th-cam.com/video/WVDQEoe6ZWY/w-d-xo.html
Are you doing a video on building that uv light?
Nice Hoodie, what brand is it if I may ask?
@@Tabaskuh Naketano
vpn are a scam anyway. You naughty youtuber.
ID on that sweater?
When someone tells me something is safe because it is "all natural" I remind them that asbestos is all natural.
And Uranium. And Ricin. And botulinum toxin. And…
Oil, coal and gas are too...
Probably the most polluting than everything else.
It's cheaper than my first FDM printer was... Oh dear. Why do I feel you have made up my mind for me? Am I really that weak?
Also Nightshade, Hemlock, poison ivy, poison oak, many/most toadstools, etc... Face it, nature just wants to kill us.
Don’t forget poison mushrooms. They are natural and plant based doesn’t mean anything either.
I kept having trouble with my prints being upside down, I am so glad you showed me a solution in this video. Now I just have to figure out who keeps inverting my spoons...
Until I saw this video, with its amazing solution, I was fixing the upside-down problem in Photoshop. It works, but Tom's idea is so much better!
There is no spoon
@@TheFujin YES!!!
I'm glad you mentioned the hazardous waste aspect of these types of machines. People seem to gloss over not only the health dangers of the resin, but the by products of processing the prints.
Resin is made out of urethane which only low VOC can be use in california.
I love my Elegoo Mars printer, but I did run into a pretty serious flaw 2 weeks into using it. The FEP film on the bottom of the print tray can get stuck to the LCD from suction when printing large parts. During one long print, I heard a pop and the display showed an error citing LCD issues. It turns out that the FEP film had gotten stuck to the LCD, and when the print arm tried to raise the print between layers, it actually yanked the LCD out of the machine by about a cm, which also destroyed the ribbon cable attached to the LCD. I returned the printer for a new one, and also found out that most people prevent this sticking by putting a thin layer of scotch or masking tape along the left and right edges of the LCD, so that the FEP can never fully stick. Since adding the tape, I haven't had another problem, but it's definitely something to be aware of.
I saw the tape mod on some random review video; sure it's saved me from having this issue. Good info for new buyers for sure though.
I tried to order an Elegoo Mars printer last week but they were all sold out. I just checked again and they're in stock. I should receive the printer on Tuesday.
I'll make sure and use some tape so I don't have the FEP film problem. Thanks for warning us.
Do you guys know which resin will produce the strongest parts? I'm hoping to print robot parts.
@@ddegn I've been using their Gray ABS-Like resin, and it's pretty strong. I'm not sure that it's as strong as ABS, but it's definitely stronger than the translucent resin I've used.
@@delsydsoftware I just checked my order and I had included a bottle their Gray ABS-Like resin. I'll be able to test it out when the printer arrives. Thanks for reply.
Wow, that's pretty bad. At least, you were able to return it.
I'm using an Anycubic Photon which works just like the Mars (afaik), now I'm a little worried. Gonna google if that's also an issue with the Photon.
the lines appear when the resin doesnt fully detach from the fep, you can change how much the thing lifts form the fep when it finishes a layer
Dealing with the chemicals sounds like a pain, but not very different from a number of other Maker media: woodworking (finishes, strippers, and some wood species' sawdusts are toxic), olde-tyme photography (various developers), working with metals such as antique clocks and jewelry (lead and other toxic metals), even dollmaking (ceramic dust can damage your lungs).
My rules of thumb for any Making are: Find non-toxic alternatives when possible; strictly follow the safety instructions; read the warnings on the Material Safety Data Sheets; consider the impact on the planet as well has your home.
Thanks for the very informative video!
That is a great philosophy....👍
Wtf are you talking about? When do you use lead in metalworking?
@@BradfordNeedham Yeah, that's not really metalworking. It's also not toxic unless you eat it.
Nice man! Excited to see you working with the Elegoo Mars! My fav resin printer at the moment.
You've answered all my questions re. resin printing plus informed me of a load of details I wasn't aware of. Thank you so much.
Thomas glad you made it home safe. Thanks for the info you give us.
Thanks for this very thorough overview. I was curious but now seeing what is all involved, I dont think its something I want to get involved with right now! Keep up the great work!
I am absolutely in love with my resin SLA printer. I have an Epax X1 that is very similar to the Mars, it has a few ease of living items (factory bed plate leveling, no need to ever level it again, that type of thing), but both of them are light years better than an FDM printer for miniatures and high detail items.
EXTREMELY comprehensive video, thank you so much. I've been thinking about getting an elegoo mars, but after watching this, while I still like the concept, I think a filament printer will be a better option for me. Thank you for this thorough look into the product!
Looks like a nice, fair review. Thanks Tom!
"shito-box" just amazing
I predict a renaming coming up.
How about PizzPrint, or LiquidCrap?
Elegoo illegal-o
Ahahahahaha, everytime he said it!
chi tu bed
My cat uses it. But we don’t own a sla printer.
Tom, glad you mentioned those resins are nasty, but really there has to be some emphasis that they are TOXIC in the monomer state. So when those are still liquid they are really toxic long term. I noticed many TH-camrs under estimate that. Those acrylic resins become totally safe once totally polymerised but before being really cured they are really toxic.
Thank you so much for your videos, you're very good explaining stuff and that's one of the reasons I recommend your channel when new people start 3d printing and have no idea where to start!!!!
Again, thank you so much!!!!
Very thoughtful video, Tom. Thanks for that approach. I too find the fumes and the hassles of resin printing to be beyond my threshold of hobby enjoyment.
Detailed yet concise summary of all the issues around resin printing. Good one! If you like the Mars you would really like the Photon or X1.
Thank you. This is very nice review not only of the printer but what is to expect with Resin printing. Kudos!
Thomas Your videos are just Amazing. I don't know why, but every time you upload I just can't help but watch. Keep up the good work Man! You are awesome!
Hi Thomas! Been a fan for a long time :D
Could you tell me what your main camera is? Que quality is amazing!
Great honest review. I know there is a lot of embuggerance using resin but I was happy to take the plunge on this fairly solid and reliable printer. Just wish I could find someone stocking the spare resin tank kits, as changing out is a complete pain!
Thanks for the detailed description
You should have far more subscribers than you do. Your channel is one of my go to's on 3d printing. I bought a Prusa MK3S after watching your videos on it and it was possibly the best choice. I even sat through hours (and hours) of your homemade Prusa. Thanks Tom. Much appreciated.
Great job on this video Thomas!!! I thoroughly enjoyed it. I've had my Mars for about three months now and I really love it!! (old, still working printer is a very stable reworked to the nines, AMX-AnetA8). and yes, each has it's purpose and both are very useful!!!
I really feel like my Anet A8 isn't really that -- I switched out the board Gen7, the limit switches, the display, changed out for linear rails, added two new power supplies (one for heated bed), mosfet upgrade for the bed, heated build plate, build plate braket and of course the entire frame (aluminum extrusions)... basically the only thing left from the anet are the xAxis rods and end holders and the extruder (though I have build-tec on standby). so yeah, it's not really an anet anything anymore.
Really depends on what you're trying to do. If your into miniatures and strength isn't the priority resin is the best way to go. I got into metal casting, and for making small detailed things like coins, resin definalty has advantages, like you don't need to sand, prime, paint, and sand again to get rid of layer lines. If your trying to make functional parts, FDM is the way to go, many more strong material choices. But resins are getting better and you are starting to see more options like, tuff resinsand even flexible resins.
Purchased one of these about 2 months ago. After stumbling through a few prints with clear resin, I found my groove with some Elegoo grey. The quality and precision are amazing. I've created prints with a resolution higher than my eyes can even see.
As for your "lines" . . . I use a 12s ON-1s OFF exposure for (non clear) resins as the resin still hardens slightly after exposure. I don't have any lines that are detectable with out careful inspection or a magnifying glass.
Chitu Box has a feature in the menu for adding holes to the print and will even then add the removed hole "plug" to the print bed automatically so after printing you can just put the plug into the appropriate hole.
Also, you should have 1 hole at the top and 1 at the bottom so that the resin can drain through the low one and air can enter through the upper.
Loved your review and content. Wondering if you could do a side-by-side comparison and review of the Anycubic Photon. It seems to be a direct competitor to the Elegoo Mars and is popular with people printing miniatures and artisan keycaps.
Careful shaking the resin, every brand I've used ends up leaking at the cap. I use a paper towel wrapped around the top whenever I shake it.
Good overview of resin-printing! Meshmixer does that hollow+holes combo (guessing 300ppl already wrote it tho)
My experience with resin printers Has taught me that it is not so much the hardware but the resin and resin settings that contribute to great parts or failed parts.
Good review, my thoughts about resin printing worked out in a video so to say 👍🏻
Any idea if and when you would get a Prusa SL1 machine? Would be awesome to have some comparison on these two. I hope it will help a lot having their CurWa station with the printer.
I'd love to see you extensively review the Prusa SL1 and the Curing/Washing machine. I think Prusa was trying to make the process as easy as possible (of course you still have to get resin in and out of the machine).
It shouldn't be to difficult to design a system that keeps light out of the resin/printing area yet still lets us top-up & remove the print safely. I think designers need to stop copying each other & obsessing over appearance as this is the Enemy of Well Designed Invention.
2:33 /* This printer, actually, prints all your parts upside down. But you can just flip them, once they done. */
Quite useful advice! :)
Thanks, Tom!
I was about to flip my printer upside down, I'm glad I heard this brilliant advice! xD
😆🤣😆🤣
Thanks Tom! Hope you do a follow up on your curing setup
Hi Thomas. I love your videos. Could you please film with a more wider depth of field next time you show printed parts? The DOF is so narrow that I just can't see the quality of the print very well. Keep it up!
must use all aperture... need moooore bokeh :D
@@user-kk4yd7ms1j bokeh man bad
Hey thomas, thanks for the review, love it. But big question, whats that jacket? looks great! want one haha
One of the best ads I've ever seen!
Now I'm really thinking about using it.
In Chitubox you can add and change the size, depth and location of any holes you want to add to the model.
Wow - this was great! I've got (2) Mars units and (3) Ender 3's in my "farm" and I was definitely concerned at what the verdict here would be. This video was straightforward, honest, and impartial.
Also - thank you so much for responsibly discussing the safety piece. So many other content creators are glossing over it or dismissing it. One of the downsides of bringing these printers to the mass-affordable segment is that so many people are expressing their "opinions" on the resin and that "It's fine, it's never affected me." As you said in the video, it isn't a question of "if" there will be a problem, rather when that problem will arise. There are serious long term concerns if you don't protect yourself from exposure to absorption of the uncured material.
What’s your ventilation system like? And do you rent a property to hold all your resin printers?
@@asive7612 I run a negative pressure cabinet for my resin units that vents outside. The cabinet is in a negative pressure room where all my other FDM printers reside. Makeup air comes from an intake on the opposite side of the house.
I just ordered an Ender 3 pro and was wondering if i should have gotten a resin printer since I plan to do a lot of minitures.
After watching this video I'm damn sure I made the right choice. Didn't know there was so much hassle and toxicity to resin print
From a detail perspective, a resin printer certainly wins hands down. But you can get still get some pretty nice prints from FDM printers like the Ender 3. There are a LOT of tips out there on TH-cam for doing this, if you haven't discovered them yet already. Personally, I'm willing to put in a little bit more effort in my settings and sacrifice a little bit of detail to avoid the mess and hazards of resins, so I tend to think you made the right choice. I don't print miniatures, but I do like to print small things with detail, and I'm very satisfied with the Ender 3 Pro. (Quick edit:) Oh, and I should add, printing with filament gives you a TON more choices both in colors and materials. Resin printing has a lot of catching up to do in that regard.
The best tip I've ever used is to do the final cure with the part submerged in water. It prevents oxygen from reaching the part, which prevents the outer surface from curing fully.
Could you describe your setup a little please?
But water is made up of.... nevermind fam
Thanks Tom for another good video. I was considering getting into resin printing because of the great print quality and the opportunity to learn more about this technology. Your reaction to the fumes when you removed the cover was enough for me to change my mind. I really don’t think this technology is ready for hobbyists. The resins are too nasty and the machines don’t include proper fume venting systems. I’ve seen some FDM machines with better fume venting systems than any of the low cost resin printers currently available. I’m going to stick to FDM for now.
Thank you for the elaborate review and explanation. I had a hard time picking between the Biqu B1 or the Elegoo Mars. Guess for now it's still PLA printing :)
By the way, for hollow parts, isn't it easiest to edit the .stl file so that there's no bottom on the print and just add a few supports so it's also not directly touching the printer surface? That way you just pour the resin out.
Dude, where do you buy your jumpers/pullovers? I want one like you are wearing here
Great presentation! I'd ordered the Mars a few months back and have not had the time to set it up in a safe area and get the supplies needed. Now I see that I'll need to add some kind of epic ventilation solution as well. The four pack of resin trays seems to be sold out (it's not showing on Amazon). Does anyone know of an alternative source or compatible tray?
This is a good video and does a good job of showing who would need a resin printer, albeit not overtly. If you just look at the prints you can tell that the two types of printing have different use cases. If I'm printing miniatures for tabletop gaming I'm printing them in resin. If I'm printing a sliced up stature of Spiderman that I plan on assembling and painting then I'm going resin. If I'm going to print parts bins to put into a storage container I'm going FDM. Same with printing terrain pieces or buildings for tabletop gaming. It's all about the level of detail you want and how much post processing you want to do (ie sanding, priming, sanding again, priming again, sanding again, painting vs cure, light sand, prime, paint) to get the detail you need. Good video.
I liked the configuration of having one hand with a glove and the other without :)
Hi, Thomas, do you still sell PLA filament. the green transparent one? Great vid BTW was thinking of getting one of these but the mess put me off!
Great video, was considering buying one but after this video I've realised for me it would be way too much hassle ;so very useful.
Great review! Do you know, what is the strength difference between filament printing and resin printing?
Before going to Resin printers you could also try FDM printing with smaller nozzles. I recently did this to get better details on a small functional part in PETG, and I was really happy with the result. This was on a stock Ender3 pro.
This will for sure not come close to what a resin printer can do. But if you want more detail than what the default 0.4mm FDM does, just spend a couple of bucks on a smaller nozzle.
Maybe an idea for a new video?
"Sample size: Two."
ROFLMAO! That little quip was hilarious.
I've had a Prusa FDM printer since 2017 and an Elegoo Mars since July. Both do great and both have their + and -. The quality from the Mars prints are amazing; if you understand and can deal with the negatives then the resin printer is great. If you don't have the right environment then the Mars isn't a good choice. I have mine vented outside and other safety measures in place.
Tom, do you have an Prusa SL1 review unit coming up? It'd be really interesting to see a comparison, especially with the price, features and technology differences.
I recently bought a elegoo mars printer and I LOVE it. My biggest issue is sometimes prints don't stick to the inverted base and you won't be able to see if your print stuck to the bed unless it runs for a while and clears the resin tub.
thanks for the insightful video.. I'm planning to buy this printer.. but where do you dispose the soluble that is used to wash and clean the resin printed material? thanks..
Thanks man, this was pretty comprehensive.
I came for the printer, now i want your sweater, thats so my style
Great video! Print quality from SLA is really amazing. But for functional parts FDM is much better. SLS will become the future but they are still to expensive for private use.
I just bought a Elegoo mars for making parts for models, scratch builds and such. not some thing I can use a FDM printer for, but I will most likely make some sort of contraption/box thingy-ma-bob I can stick the printer in too, and vent out the fumes to the outside.
Years ago someone asked me about these higher quality one that uses 'liquid' and why didn't I own such printer that time for very detailed print quality. It is just too much hassle for me to use resin printer. Everything about the 'hassle' to handle a resin been discussed several times and I probably won't ever gonna touch resin printer anyway.
That was very informative!
One of the reasons why Elegoo Mars stood out is that it was the first 1440p "very cheap" MSLA printer in a sea of 1080p ones (that many others YT channels reviewed). It doesn't sound like much, but the difference is very noticeable.
what does 1400p mean im new to this
@@paulhunter123 These printers use repurposed LCD screens (like the one on your phone). 1440p resolution > 1080p resolution.
There is an issue with the center curing more than the outer edges when you print a solid models like you have you won't notice this issue but when you start printing models where you have to fine-tune the burn time just right you have to get it as low as possible so that you don't fuse movable printing place links for example if you wanted to print the flexi butterfly this becomes a problem when I tried to fill the bed plate with multiple little butterflies the ones on the outside edge didn't cook enough and malformed but if I adjusted it upward the center fused a minor issue for most people but it is an issue you have to be aware of
To greatly extend the life of the machine use Clear resin this allows you to use much much shorter burn times per layer and you can use your 0.1mm layer Heights
Because of the near-perfect layer alignment and consistency that a resin printer gives you 0.1 layers look far superior and you still can't see the laser lights just enable anti-aliasing for the low resolution screen 1440p is actually pretty low resolution in this regard
I have otherwise been extremely pleased with my ellegoo Mars although the newer machines with Matrix array LED's should work a lot better
Vielen Dank für dein Video. Mich interessiert wo Du die "Bath packs" bezogen hast. Verwendest Du dann für jede Farbe ein eigenes Pack? Ist die Lagerung / Aushärtung dann kein Problem? Liebe Grüsse
If you have trouble with a hollowed model and not getting all the uncured resin from inside it, I’ve found a syringe with a coarse needle (1mm) filled with IPA is great for that.
Waiting for my Orange 30 tracking number from the Kickstarter. Will be using a sonicator with yellow magic 7 instead of alcohol and UV nail curing hood
Thomas, curious to know what you think about the printer after a few months. Also I see the Mars pro is coming out in a month. Any thoughts on waiting for the new version vs buying this one.
Could you review the SL1? Currently I am struggeling a bit... constantly the resin was stuck to the clingfilm, and thus the peeling of the failed layers did the rest to get some bad dents in the film and now even a crack... so I only got two good parts, did around three or four recalibrations and only had some luck after pushing down the build plate when tightening the setscrew...
Thank you sir. We will be purchasing one because of the clean prints we’ve been using filament for last seven or eight years and are just getting tired of the Cleanup time before we send it to the Casting department
Little off topic but with plastic and resin printers being so common, I wonder why no home solutions for powder based printing. It sounds like it has some benefits like not needing to print supports and a lot of materials.
I've been thinking about a resin printer, so I found this very informative. I print for fun and, to be honest, resin sounds like way too much hassle. And I wouldn't know how to dispose of the chemicals. I'll stick with filament for now. Thanks!
With resin printers, you need to have a use for it. Like minis for example, your not going to get the quality and speed with FDM compared to resin. You CAN get good FDM minis but with the expense of time, where you could print a whole plate full in the same time as a single one. (Assuming the z height is the same) it has many advantages in that respect. For larger or strength required parts, FDM wins all day everyday. Resin is very brittle even tho it has a high tensile strength.
For me I mostly print minis and arts and crafty things so resin is amazing. The details are epic, not having to sand as much (just supports) is absolutely worth the added expense over FDM for post processing.
The wash set-up, I see non-issue with Ikea containers vs some ridiculously overpriced container system, like the forms station. There's no way you can justify spending that much money for what it does. There just containers... And you can print a mount to hold the plate in the bath. Which also is a great way to cut down on mess and gloves.
I do agree they should supply a proper curing light but that would be added cost and it easy to source a cheap UV light setup.
I simply transfer my plate onto amount and let it soak in a container without even using a glove, because I'm only touching the knob to unbolt the plate from the printer. I only wear when handling uncured prints or cleaning. Rubber reusable kitchen gloves are also a much better solution to wasting hundreds of gloves.
The smell I also found varies per brand of resin and by the person. I personally am not slightly bothered by the smell. I smell way worse at work lol but that's my opinion (and many others) my gf HATES when I print ABS filament and says it stinks but has never said anything about the resin.
Ultimately it depends what you wanna make/print. I personally like having both resin and FDM printers. Miniatures and small detail items are great in resin and larger prints in FDM.
I recently made a Rick Sanchez mask and printed all in PLA and printed the eyes in resin as I KNEW the hole would be an issue with FDM or require some post processing. Where the resin eyes came out flawless.
You can't really say one's better than the other when they both have their own strengths and weaknesses.
Great review!!
As far as the SD Card being in the back might be to stop it from being hit and unplugged by accident??
@thomas about to get my first SLA. Is this still good choice or should I wait. I dont want to get the iPhon4 the day iPhone 5 is coming out.
That hoodie is fire I like it. Thanks for all you do!!
ChiTuBox (The one i got with my Mars), actually has a "hole" feature you can use to make a square, round, or hexagonal hole into your hollowed prints to let the goo out and the Alcohol in. There's even an option to "Keep Hole", where it will make a separate body representing the hole it removed so if you like, you can glue the model back together. I don't know if a tolerance is built into that or not, but resin swells slightly as it cures so you could find that the hole needs some help to fit. (I haven't tried printing holes, only snap-fit parts, which worked with about 0.013" tolerance between them. I printed Hot Wheels car-sized rims with removable/swappable tires.) The advantage is that if you can be clean about it, you could use uncured resin as glue, and throw it into your curing station to get a good bond.
Looks interesting but I think, as you mentioned, that you have to think of the whole production 'ecosystem' and not just the printer with resin systems. For me I would want to build a fume hood with extraction to the outside as part of that ecosystem and logistically that's unfeasible currently.
How do you dispose of the resin/washing alcohol? How many times can you use the alcohol to wash before you have to dispose of it?
Just leave it sit outside with the top off... evaporation will take care of it for you. just don't leave it in the rain.
Any chance you could do a video of which is the best, and how to apply resin glue to fit two print pieces together?
The quality on this video is insane! I feel like I can see the details on these prints as if I was holding them. Awesome job.
I did have one question.
You said once the resin is mixed with the alcohol, it becomes hazardous waste. What do you do with it then since you can't put it down the sink? I use a resin printer at work (different brand) and they say you can do that. So now I am confused and what to make sure I am doing what is best xD
Hazardous waste has too many meanings. Technically you should leave the container outside in the sunlight and let it evaporate. This will leave behind cured resin that can be thrown away.
Free idea for resin printer manufacturers: make a compartment at the bottom of the printer for curing parts with the same UV LED.
YES! I spent 60 hours printing a curing enclosure with a tevo tornado
After 3 years of FDM printing switched for small parts to SLA printing and I'm never going back to FDM. The dimensional accuracy and surface quality is outstanding. What comes resin smells I havent experienced it the same way as Tom. There are resins with very mild smell, almost odorless. Plant based resins which can be poured to sink. Tough resins outperforming PETG, ABS. Lot of choices here. For additional work required the end result is well worth it. FDM as a technology has reached it's top. Now it's the time of SLA.
Hi Thomas, Im looking for a 3d painter to print TableTop mini. I didnt find any where else to ask you that question. What would be the best printer for those small figurines, trying to get the best details possibles. They are quite small and when I look at review online or read on that subject people often rate a printer with a note but didnt really answers my concern about having the best details over very small print. Hope im understandable english is my third language.
Thanks Fab
is there any FDM printer that comes close though ? I would love to dive into printing some custom car models , preferably 1:18-1:20 scale, but with lot of small details on the inside and engine parts, and I just fear that FDM printer can't get me close to the quality I need
Great video, thanks! Learned a lot.
This answered every question I've ever had about resin printing. +sub'd
Hey, this is completely unrelated but I love the jumper that you're wearing in this vid. Where did you get it?
Alas, poor Yorick! I knew him, Horatio, a fellow of infinite jest, of most excellent fancy.
Better review than design prototype test :P
I’m considering purchasing one, but the fumes are a concern. Would I be able to store/print in a garage with the Elego mars or any resin printer? I’m wondering if it would be too hot for the printer or the resin as the garage is not insulated
How accurate is dimensional tolerance / stability on a resin printer? Detail is one thing, accuracy is another. Can I paint tiny functional mechanical parts?
light off time is handy i tend to have it at 6.5 and during long prints i set to 15 seconds. this gives the uv and screen time to cool down between layers and stops the screen from getting burnt out. :) also to help removal of supports. after cleaning. before you cure the parts. use a hairdryer to heat up the supports then then should start to bend and you should be able to brush them off and not have bad pockmarks in the prints. just use an airbrush to dry the ipa of the parts before heating the supports.
I love my Elegoo!! I've had more fun with it then my FDM printer! Sure it might smell but its not as bad as printing with abs. Plus its more reliable. But thats just my opinion... I enjoyed your review!
Where did you get the spare vats from? Elegoo's page doesn't allow ordering from germany and I can't find any other source.
HELP! Just got a Elegoo Mars and can’t find any ipa alcohol anywhere to clean the resin tank any recommendations or advice would be greatly appreciated thanks in advance.😀😀😀
I am looking hard at the SLA printers, I have an Anycubic FDM printer, and like the brand, but the Elegoo Saturn looks better than the Anycubic Mono X at a much lower price. The Anycubic has a slightly larger Z axis, but that's not worth a $330.00 premium. I hope to have an Elegoo Saturn in my future. Thanks again for the thorough reviews. Something about a German accent that lends credibility to anything technical. Keep up the great content!