This was my first time ever replacing anything toilet related and your video was the most helpful one. You were very thorough and didn't overexplain, it was just the right amount of detail and step-by-step that a novice like myself would need. You guys are doing a great service and I can't thank you enough!
Your video was excellent -- I was able to replace my toilet fill valve this morning because of your visual and verbal instructions, thank you! The only problem I had was the flange nut that came with the new fill valve had two tabs on it to turn it, but there's no space under my toilet and the tabs kept hitting the toilet -- so I had to use the original flange nut, which worked out just fine. Thank you again, and I am very proud of myself!
Thank you so much! I'm a 63 year old recent widow and am new at this stuff. There was nothing in the written instructions or the Fluidmaster website installation video on what to do with the red rubber part. I suspected the center needed to be punched out and then the washer put on the shank but I didn't want to chance ruining a part in case I was wrong. Thanks for clarifying!
Glad the video helped and you were able to resolve things yourself. Another person mentioned in the comments that the red rubber part that you punch out can be saved and used as a replacement for the water intake valve gasket if that ever leaks (last thing Pam screws on before turning on the water in the video). Apparently it's shaped the same size and shape as the gasket in that supply line.
Save the middle part of the brick colored gasket that you punch out. That is also another gasket that you can use for the water intake valve (the last thing she screws on before they turned the water supply back on). Mine was leaking. The old gasket was disintegrating. When I removed the old gasket it was shaped exactly like the part she punched out. I put it an and no more leaks. Thanks for the video guys.
Thank you very much. The instructions/pictures on the website didn't explain everything. I appreciate you putting the model number in the description. Your video was easy to find and easy to follow. Thanks again!
Great video, yours is the 3rd one that I watched on installing this particular fill valve, but the only one that shows how to install the red rubber gasket. Like other viewers, there were no (proper) instructions that came with it. The illustrations on the side of the box didn't really help at all. Very grateful to you both, thank you very much, liked and subbed!
Glad the vid helped. I also reduced the water level in the tank, but it's a fine balance for my toilet bowl because if I drop the water level to much it doesn't provide a fully clean flush after going #2.
Thank you so much. The two pieces at 2:42 are also on my toilet and they were throwing me off. My house that I just bought used to be a rental and so everything is all fucked up.
Lefty loose-y, righty tight-y. I have to say that over and over :). Thank you for the good instruction. Other videos did not address the rubber washer punch-out.
I do that sometimes too. I also have to quickly make my index finger and thumb on my hands into L shapes sometimes to remind myself which is my left hand/side (I'm not ashamed, unless you catch me doing it).
This doesn't apply if you have left hand threads such as the nut that holds the flush handle on. I found out the hard way when I lefty-tightied it and cracked my tank. Fortunately, I was able to glue it back together.
Update to my previous comment: It works! However, the little red gasket that was punched out from the larger piece didn't work. I know I should use all new material, but in this instance, I had to use the old black gasket. Little suggestion: use a larger sponge to soak up the excess water inside the tank. It will save lots of time. (I know that sometimes you just have to use what you have). Thank you very much!
I had to do the same with the red gasket - it leaked. Had to use the old black rubber gasket that was on there before. Thank you for posting this! It helps if the area where the gasket will sit is completely dry.
So there is a little piece of plastic inside the tube of the fluid master 400a. Is it supposed to be there? Water is not getting to the tank, just spraying from the bottom when I turn the feed on
I'm not sure about your issue, but I don't think there should be a piece of plastic inside the tube, however if water is spraying from the bottom of the fluid master outside the tank and onto the bathroom floor then maybe the supply hose line to the fluid master isn't tightened down or your missing a gasket that seals the hose connection to the fluidmaster.
My water inlet is a spiral metal type. The FluidMaster valve instructions say to use ‘existing’ cone washer here because the supplied new cone washer may leak with this sort of metal line. Mine is 40+ years old so that cone washer may need to be replaced because I have a small amount of water seepage here after the new value has been installed. Is there a special cone washer for these spiral metal inlet lines and if so, where can I get one? FluidMaster instructions just say ‘use existing washer’ instead.
Your question is out of my league. You could talk to your local plumbing supply store who might know or maybe even someone at home depot. I'm not familiar with your setup, but if it's easy enough to do you could consider just replacing the metal inlet hose which should resolve the water seepage. If all else fails then it might be worth it to call in a plumber.
Mine had zero instructions but I guess the brick gasket was suppose to be flat side up on the valve but for some reason it kept leaking and would not tighten enough to stop leaking. So I flipped the gasket where the flat side faced down to the seal the with the tank while the bump faced the valve and it seemed to tighten better and no leaks so far. Anyone else have that problem? I guess if it works, it works, but I wanted to see what was the "right" way/direction to install the gasket. Now I'm trying to look around to see how others are install that dern gasket.
That is indeed strange. Proper installation is with that red rubber gasket with the flat side up facing the fluidmaster fill valve and the "bump" facing down on the inside of the tank. I'm not a plumber or professional so I can't say the way you installed it won't work since you obviously made it work, but my only concern would be if that gasket seal will end up leaking earlier than it's supposed to since it's not seating as it was intended.
The gasket should be replaced if it has cracks since when you tighten the white nut part (6:50) it is going to compress that red gasket and any cracks could split and become bigger and result in a leak or slow leak.
The main valve meaning the supply line coming from the wall? We haven't found a need to replace it, but if you need help on doing this I'm pretty sure there are some knowledgeable people out there that can show you on TH-cam.
I'm not completely sure, however if you remove the tank cover and take a look inside and if the fill valve is similar to the fluid master then I'm pretty sure the fluid master will be a compatible replacement Found this brochure after a quick google search. www.us.kohler.com/webassets/kpna/brochures/JOB019705-02_Common_Service_Parts_Brochure.pdf Hope this helps.
The fill valve can be height adjusted to accommodate various toilet tank heights. You slide that clear plastic ring up the neck so then you can turn the black lower section to either increase or decrease the height of the fill valve depending on the height of your tank. Once you have your desired height for the valve you slide the clear ring back down to lock it in.
The Fluidmaster 400A has a major flaw. It takes 4 mins to refill your tank where the old style takes less than a minute. The issue is theres a white rubber stopper in the valve that you must remove for the tank to fill faster. Why did the company did this?? Stupidity?? yes. Some of us needs to double flush as first time around doesn't clean everything.
Did the same replacement recently but I’m having a small issue with water dripping/running off the top of the fill valve (where the cap is). It seems like the lever to stop the water from running doesn’t push all the way to the top when it fills with water. It does stop filling but there’s still that trickle until it fills the bowl enough to lift the lever fully. Any ideas?
Unless the Fill Valve itself is faulty I think you probably need to adjust the screw for the water level. I found this video from Fluidmaster that might be helpful. Look at 0:39 where they indicate how to adjust the water level. Maybe you need to raise the water level so the tank allows the float to push the lever all the way up. th-cam.com/video/cbTEq_da4H8/w-d-xo.html
Thanks, just replaced yesterday new part is bad going in I'm on my second one in two days, wish me luck, btw, first one was $6, second one is $11, got a bit of brass in it.
The water going into the black cylinder is supposed to fill the bowl. The reason for water in the bowl is to act as a barrier between the sewage pipe and your bathroom to prevent smell/odor from coming into your bathroom.
Yours is one of the better videos I have watched about this subject. It goes step by step without missing any details. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
This was my first time ever replacing anything toilet related and your video was the most helpful one. You were very thorough and didn't overexplain, it was just the right amount of detail and step-by-step that a novice like myself would need. You guys are doing a great service and I can't thank you enough!
You're welcome! Glad you were able to knock this out.
Your video was excellent -- I was able to replace my toilet fill valve this morning because of your visual and verbal instructions, thank you! The only problem I had was the flange nut that came with the new fill valve had two tabs on it to turn it, but there's no space under my toilet and the tabs kept hitting the toilet -- so I had to use the original flange nut, which worked out just fine. Thank you again, and I am very proud of myself!
Glad the video helped! Good job knocking out this repair yourself!
Thank you so much! I'm a 63 year old recent widow and am new at this stuff. There was nothing in the written instructions or the Fluidmaster website installation video on what to do with the red rubber part. I suspected the center needed to be punched out and then the washer put on the shank but I didn't want to chance ruining a part in case I was wrong. Thanks for clarifying!
Glad the video helped and you were able to resolve things yourself.
Another person mentioned in the comments that the red rubber part that you punch out can be saved and used as a replacement for the water intake valve gasket if that ever leaks (last thing Pam screws on before turning on the water in the video). Apparently it's shaped the same size and shape as the gasket in that supply line.
Sorry for your loss Linda, we love ya! 💜
Same here. I came he specifically for clarity on the washer, as the instructions are vague. Perfect solution video
My mom had found 1 video that kept skipping steps, and we were stuck on one step and you helped us with that and help finish it 🎉
That's awesome! Glad the video helped!
Save the middle part of the brick colored gasket that you punch out. That is also another gasket that you can use for the water intake valve (the last thing she screws on before they turned the water supply back on). Mine was leaking. The old gasket was disintegrating. When I removed the old gasket it was shaped exactly like the part she punched out. I put it an and no more leaks. Thanks for the video guys.
Ah thanks for the heads up! Good tip! I will remember this next time.
Thank you very much. The instructions/pictures on the website didn't explain everything. I appreciate you putting the model number in the description. Your video was easy to find and easy to follow. Thanks again!
Cool! Glad it helped.
Good Job! Your video was more descriptive compared to the others. I viewed your video and successfully installed flusher. Thanks!
That's great, nice job! Glad the video was helpful.
Great video, yours is the 3rd one that I watched on installing this particular fill valve, but the only one that shows how to install the red rubber gasket. Like other viewers, there were no (proper) instructions that came with it. The illustrations on the side of the box didn't really help at all. Very grateful to you both, thank you very much, liked and subbed!
Glad it helped
Excellent video team! Thanks for noting the part that typically wears out
Glad the video helped!
Extremely nice valve. I replaced it as this video showed and adjusted the valve height to save lots of wafter by letting the tank to be half full
Glad the vid helped. I also reduced the water level in the tank, but it's a fine balance for my toilet bowl because if I drop the water level to much it doesn't provide a fully clean flush after going #2.
Thank you so much. The two pieces at 2:42 are also on my toilet and they were throwing me off. My house that I just bought used to be a rental and so everything is all fucked up.
Glad the video helped!
Lefty loose-y, righty tight-y. I have to say that over and over :). Thank you for the good instruction. Other videos did not address the rubber washer punch-out.
I do that sometimes too. I also have to quickly make my index finger and thumb on my hands into L shapes sometimes to remind myself which is my left hand/side (I'm not ashamed, unless you catch me doing it).
This doesn't apply if you have left hand threads such as the nut that holds the flush handle on. I found out the hard way when I lefty-tightied it and cracked my tank. Fortunately, I was able to glue it back together.
Yall are so awesome! Saved our home. THANK you
Glad the video help!
Excellent tutorial .Your instructions were very clear.👍
Glad it helped!
I watched like 5 videos this was the most helpful thank youuu
Glad it helped!
Update to my previous comment: It works! However, the little red gasket that was punched out from the larger piece didn't work. I know I should use all new material, but in this instance, I had to use the old black gasket. Little suggestion: use a larger sponge to soak up the excess water inside the tank. It will save lots of time. (I know that sometimes you just have to use what you have). Thank you very much!
Cool, thanks for the tip, yeah we only had that old dish washing sponge at the time.
I had to do the same with the red gasket - it leaked. Had to use the old black rubber gasket that was on there before. Thank you for posting this! It helps if the area where the gasket will sit is completely dry.
Thank you guys. Easy video to follow 👌
Glad it helped!
Great instructions easy to follow, thanks
Glad it was helpful.
This is the second one for the basement bat. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxOuLt8IL_GxhhaK8DBuKEL-zV0UJVpWZn , works great
Thanks! Glad the video was helpful!
So there is a little piece of plastic inside the tube of the fluid master 400a. Is it supposed to be there? Water is not getting to the tank, just spraying from the bottom when I turn the feed on
I'm not sure about your issue, but I don't think there should be a piece of plastic inside the tube, however if water is spraying from the bottom of the fluid master outside the tank and onto the bathroom floor then maybe the supply hose line to the fluid master isn't tightened down or your missing a gasket that seals the hose connection to the fluidmaster.
My water inlet is a spiral metal type.
The FluidMaster valve instructions say to use ‘existing’ cone washer here because the supplied new cone washer may leak with this sort of metal line.
Mine is 40+ years old so that cone washer may need to be replaced because I have a small amount of water seepage here after the new value has been installed.
Is there a special cone washer for these spiral metal inlet lines and if so, where can I get one?
FluidMaster instructions just say ‘use existing washer’ instead.
Your question is out of my league. You could talk to your local plumbing supply store who might know or maybe even someone at home depot. I'm not familiar with your setup, but if it's easy enough to do you could consider just replacing the metal inlet hose which should resolve the water seepage. If all else fails then it might be worth it to call in a plumber.
Mine had zero instructions but I guess the brick gasket was suppose to be flat side up on the valve but for some reason it kept leaking and would not tighten enough to stop leaking. So I flipped the gasket where the flat side faced down to the seal the with the tank while the bump faced the valve and it seemed to tighten better and no leaks so far. Anyone else have that problem? I guess if it works, it works, but I wanted to see what was the "right" way/direction to install the gasket. Now I'm trying to look around to see how others are install that dern gasket.
That is indeed strange. Proper installation is with that red rubber gasket with the flat side up facing the fluidmaster fill valve and the "bump" facing down on the inside of the tank. I'm not a plumber or professional so I can't say the way you installed it won't work since you obviously made it work, but my only concern would be if that gasket seal will end up leaking earlier than it's supposed to since it's not seating as it was intended.
What happens if that red gasket has cracks?
The gasket should be replaced if it has cracks since when you tighten the white nut part (6:50) it is going to compress that red gasket and any cracks could split and become bigger and result in a leak or slow leak.
How about a video on the main valve? Valve replacement?
The main valve meaning the supply line coming from the wall? We haven't found a need to replace it, but if you need help on doing this I'm pretty sure there are some knowledgeable people out there that can show you on TH-cam.
Thank you!
Welcome!
The chain that was connected to your float from the adjustable tube valve looked a little tight preventing the float to drop. just sayin
Thanks for the heads up. Fortunately things are working okay.
Will this fluid master be compatible with a 2004 kohler 1.6 gallon one piece toilet? Thanks
I'm not completely sure, however if you remove the tank cover and take a look inside and if the fill valve is similar to the fluid master then I'm pretty sure the fluid master will be a compatible replacement
Found this brochure after a quick google search.
www.us.kohler.com/webassets/kpna/brochures/JOB019705-02_Common_Service_Parts_Brochure.pdf
Hope this helps.
@@bensaysthings
Thank you so much!
What is the clear plastic ring near the bottom of the unit for?
The fill valve can be height adjusted to accommodate various toilet tank heights. You slide that clear plastic ring up the neck so then you can turn the black lower section to either increase or decrease the height of the fill valve depending on the height of your tank. Once you have your desired height for the valve you slide the clear ring back down to lock it in.
@@bensaysthings Thanks. Much appreciated.
@@RussellHogan no problem, glad I could help!
The Fluidmaster 400A has a major flaw. It takes 4 mins to refill your tank where the old style takes less than a minute. The issue is theres a white rubber stopper in the valve that you must remove for the tank to fill faster. Why did the company did this?? Stupidity?? yes. Some of us needs to double flush as first time around doesn't clean everything.
Righty tidy lefty Lucy
Did the same replacement recently but I’m having a small issue with water dripping/running off the top of the fill valve (where the cap is). It seems like the lever to stop the water from running doesn’t push all the way to the top when it fills with water. It does stop filling but there’s still that trickle until it fills the bowl enough to lift the lever fully.
Any ideas?
Unless the Fill Valve itself is faulty I think you probably need to adjust the screw for the water level. I found this video from Fluidmaster that might be helpful. Look at 0:39 where they indicate how to adjust the water level. Maybe you need to raise the water level so the tank allows the float to push the lever all the way up.
th-cam.com/video/cbTEq_da4H8/w-d-xo.html
@@bensaysthings thanks I’ll look again. I’ve tried multiple settings and have had no luck but I’ll give the video a look at give it another go
@@dimmok8344 cool, good luck, hope it really is that and not a bad part.
Thanks, just replaced yesterday new part is bad going in I'm on my second one in two days, wish me luck, btw, first one was $6, second one is $11, got a bit of brass in it.
@@classicstangbrn8964 Good Luck! You got this!
Why should the water be put into that black cylinder? Shouldn't it be put outside of it. I put water in the cylinder and i noticed leaks in the bowl.
The water going into the black cylinder is supposed to fill the bowl. The reason for water in the bowl is to act as a barrier between the sewage pipe and your bathroom to prevent smell/odor from coming into your bathroom.
You don't have to remove it from the tank...see "Replacing Fluid Master Valve in 30 seconds..no tools" You Tube video
Great tip! Thanks for the heads up.
strange that your fill valve 400A is a bit different than my 400A.
Life is difficult.
Hopefully the install is still straightforward. The 400A I picked up was part of a 3 pack I got at Home Depot.
If she can do it, I can do it. Thanks.
Yep, you're more capable than you think. For most DIY repairs I found that usually someone out there has made a TH-cam instructional on it.