Great question, I determine my blade colors by water clarity, depths and even bug hatches. Have a trip in the morning, but will create a new video to get into the specifics, thank you 👍
Thanks for sharing this information. I’m getting into walleye fishing with my 8 year old. I don’t want to be the pathetic dad who can’t put his son on fish! Would you be willing to direct me to a place where I can purchase blades like that or other blades you recommend for the eastern Michigan system?
If you go mid, shallow then deep, how do you get your mid past your shallow board? Are you planning on letting the shallow board back a little then bringing the mid board in front of the shallow board?
I have not had that issue with Smile Blades, but then again I run 20 lb. Perhaps the brand of fluorocarbon has something to do with it, but only a possible solution.
I don't attach the hooks directly the "flasher". Typically my harnesses are six to 7 foot in length, my St Croix's are eight foot long, and that length is manageable with the rods. About 3 ft in front of the spinner I will cut the line, then tie on the Blue Fox. My go to hook configuration is a three hook rig, which I think would be ideal for you and water clarity you are fishing in. Two will work, but always have the chance of the swipe and miss, and in my opinion the Slow Death hook is more of a visual attraction. Yes, you are adding flash and noise from the brass rattle chamber, but it is like, "and then what?" after that. For myself, slow death rigs are ideal in shallow water, or trolling slow over weed beds. So I would use them more in inland lakes, or weed choked lakes like Lake St. Clair here in Michigan.
www.franksgreatoutdoors.com/macks-lures-tapered-beads-10-pack-macks-lures-tapered www.jannsnetcraft.com/fishing-lure-beads/351117.aspx www.fishusa.com/Dutch-Fork-No-Loss-Quik-Change-Clevis?quantity=1&L-Style1=464&gclid=Cj0KCQjw24qHBhCnARIsAPbdtlIs8bo05-QJHU2pxMS_Ibiyl7QQtIUhdHJl2jBRWbxeoEDnOTx0ybIaAvF3EALw_wcB and working on a link for the blade box
@@mmh2600 the blade box I really like does not appear to be available anymore. But, Amish Outfitters does have a box that is close to it. www.walleyetacklestore.com/amish-outfitters-harness-blade-caddy-938/ you can also find them on FishUSA www.fishusa.com/Amish-Outfitters-Harness-Blade-Caddy?gclid=Cj0KCQjwio6XBhCMARIsAC0u9aHCtl-8OcSJkHp2DfHPqxO47hveyMY4vlDMR5R8hWnwNMPmd1oSoosaAlowEALw_wcB
I’m laughing at your stubbornness on converting to quick change clevises. I did this long ago. And your OCD tendencies crack me up, too. I fish from a row troller, an Adirondack Guide Boat. There’s no way I have room for inefficiency and inventory. Everything has its place. Interchangeability and efficiency has to be built into my tackle. I go right down to the weights on my homemade bottom bouncers. I use tungsten bass weights that I can slide on and off the bouncers. I stack them on the bouncer stem as needed. Tungsten is twice as dense as lead and saves space. increased density reduces drag and line angle versus lead. Smaller size means fewer rock snags. The super hard tungsten also slides through snags whereas lead compresses itself and jams itself deeper into the snag. And by the way, the individual tungsten weights make one hell of a racket when they clank together while you’re actually bottom bouncing. Lead doesn’t do this. Expensive? Yes. But on my last outing I spent zero minutes with snagged bouncers while fishing a hard rock bottom. Zero. I’ve lost exactly zero tungsten bouncers. I’ll never go back to lead. Period. Other bouncer features that eliminate wasted time are soldered connections anywhere line can tangle or get snagged on the bouncer. Take the time to do this! Use solder or a uv cure resin. I don’t use anything but high quality ball bearing swivels at line attachment points. Finally, the short arm on my bouncers is longer than commercial types to keep my leader from wrapping around the main stem of the bouncer. And this arm is attached to the main bouncer stem just like the removable blade clevises are attached to a leader… a spiral metal winding on the aem allows the arm to spin around the main bouncer shaft. I use a lighter gauge wire for this arm, too, which also helps to allow my leader to unwrap itself should it ever become wrapper around the main stem. Have you ever used this type of bouncer?
Just getting started fishing the big water, thanks for the tips.
Great video , would love to see an update on how this method worked over the last year and any adaptions you have made.
Your still the man .
Thank you. It all makes sense.
Just found your channel, from Toledo and launch out of Bolles. Interesting finding someone close.
Heading out Saturday to get the boards wet!
Paul Doute is a legend
Do you have a suggestion for a decent video to learn the process for tying up the harness?
What colors do you tie your spinners with I drift with spinners in Lake Erie
Great question, I determine my blade colors by water clarity, depths and even bug hatches. Have a trip in the morning, but will create a new video to get into the specifics, thank you 👍
Thanks for sharing this information. I’m getting into walleye fishing with my 8 year old. I don’t want to be the pathetic dad who can’t put his son on fish! Would you be willing to direct me to a place where I can purchase blades like that or other blades you recommend for the eastern Michigan system?
You can go to Jannsnetcraft.com, stop in to Domka outdoors in Monroe, Cabela's carries Silver Streak blades and you can look up JT's customs
I’ll check them out. Thanks
If you go mid, shallow then deep, how do you get your mid past your shallow board? Are you planning on letting the shallow board back a little then bringing the mid board in front of the shallow board?
Say my mid is 30 back, and my shallow is 14. Walleye pulls the mid back, you bring the board back behind the shallow and absolutely no way to tangle👍
I’ve lost several rigs when Smile Blades sawed through 15# fluoro leader. This happened quickly after letting the rig out, not from long-term wear.
I have not had that issue with Smile Blades, but then again I run 20 lb. Perhaps the brand of fluorocarbon has something to do with it, but only a possible solution.
I’ll try that blue fox , 2 or 3 hook or slow death hook on the back……? I’m fishing in stain water and black water.
I don't attach the hooks directly the "flasher". Typically my harnesses are six to 7 foot in length, my St Croix's are eight foot long, and that length is manageable with the rods. About 3 ft in front of the spinner I will cut the line, then tie on the Blue Fox. My go to hook configuration is a three hook rig, which I think would be ideal for you and water clarity you are fishing in. Two will work, but always have the chance of the swipe and miss, and in my opinion the Slow Death hook is more of a visual attraction. Yes, you are adding flash and noise from the brass rattle chamber, but it is like, "and then what?" after that. For myself, slow death rigs are ideal in shallow water, or trolling slow over weed beds. So I would use them more in inland lakes, or weed choked lakes like Lake St. Clair here in Michigan.
@@chuckmasonfishingmichigan thanks You so much Chuck really appreciate your answer 👑👑👑
Interesting, middle, shallow, deep. Can you explain why not shallow, middle, deep? It seems you wouldn’t tangle with this either.
Absolutely correct, but you don't want to run shallow next to the boat, where the walleye can be spooked
Sizes confuse me. Bigger number bigger spinners?
YEP!!
Your going to be picking up Steel out there in 70 fow. Been there done that.
professional hazard lol
Links to these places that you get beads, clevis and boxes???
www.franksgreatoutdoors.com/macks-lures-tapered-beads-10-pack-macks-lures-tapered www.jannsnetcraft.com/fishing-lure-beads/351117.aspx www.fishusa.com/Dutch-Fork-No-Loss-Quik-Change-Clevis?quantity=1&L-Style1=464&gclid=Cj0KCQjw24qHBhCnARIsAPbdtlIs8bo05-QJHU2pxMS_Ibiyl7QQtIUhdHJl2jBRWbxeoEDnOTx0ybIaAvF3EALw_wcB and working on a link for the blade box
@@chuckmasonfishingmichigan Hi Chuck, did you ever get a link for the blade box?
@@mmh2600 the blade box I really like does not appear to be available anymore. But, Amish Outfitters does have a box that is close to it. www.walleyetacklestore.com/amish-outfitters-harness-blade-caddy-938/ you can also find them on FishUSA www.fishusa.com/Amish-Outfitters-Harness-Blade-Caddy?gclid=Cj0KCQjwio6XBhCMARIsAC0u9aHCtl-8OcSJkHp2DfHPqxO47hveyMY4vlDMR5R8hWnwNMPmd1oSoosaAlowEALw_wcB
I’m laughing at your stubbornness on converting to quick change clevises. I did this long ago. And your OCD tendencies crack me up, too. I fish from a row troller, an Adirondack Guide Boat. There’s no way I have room for inefficiency and inventory. Everything has its place. Interchangeability and efficiency has to be built into my tackle. I go right down to the weights on my homemade bottom bouncers. I use tungsten bass weights that I can slide on and off the bouncers. I stack them on the bouncer stem as needed. Tungsten is twice as dense as lead and saves space. increased density reduces drag and line angle versus lead. Smaller size means fewer rock snags. The super hard tungsten also slides through snags whereas lead compresses itself and jams itself deeper into the snag. And by the way, the individual tungsten weights make one hell of a racket when they clank together while you’re actually bottom bouncing. Lead doesn’t do this. Expensive? Yes. But on my last outing I spent zero minutes with snagged bouncers while fishing a hard rock bottom. Zero. I’ve lost exactly zero tungsten bouncers. I’ll never go back to lead. Period.
Other bouncer features that eliminate wasted time are soldered connections anywhere line can tangle or get snagged on the bouncer. Take the time to do this! Use solder or a uv cure resin. I don’t use anything but high quality ball bearing swivels at line attachment points. Finally, the short arm on my bouncers is longer than commercial types to keep my leader from wrapping around the main stem of the bouncer. And this arm is attached to the main bouncer stem just like the removable blade clevises are attached to a leader… a spiral metal winding on the aem allows the arm to spin around the main bouncer shaft. I use a lighter gauge wire for this arm, too, which also helps to allow my leader to unwrap itself should it ever become wrapper around the main stem. Have you ever used this type of bouncer?
Too many ads.
You can pretend you are solving rocket science problems but talking about it makes you look silly.....Fish are not as smart as you think LOLOL