doesn't the stator have seperate charge, trigger and lighting outputs already, and can't the lighting output go through a half-bridge rectifier without floating it? (maybe small capacitor to make it continuous dc that doesn't drop to 0v every engine rotation)...?
Would it work with the original lighting circuit or would i have to do anything different to make work with oem lighting circuit in my head seems like if i still wire yellow and red wire and still have rectifier on same wire and then earth battery to frame/ engine would it still work ?
In this case I converted the lighting system to dc power then put a regulator in to provide a consistent 13-14volts to the battery so I didn’t kill it. In the scenario you are proposing you would need to find some form of regulator/rectifier that does the conversion from ac to dc, then regulates the output to the battery otherwise you risk destroying your battery. I’m out of my depth though. I would suspect if you put a dc regulator on an ac circuit you would have issues and fry something.
Did you ever figure out how to wire this to the stock light switch with the off and run switch (red yellow green blue yellow-red wires) ?? Would really like to do this
Not yet, I have another Blaster build coming up once I finish off the Trailboss I’m working on now. I’d like to figure it out to as it would give a nice clean look.
The older Yamaha bikes just used a diode going to the battery and retained the AC voltage regulator. Is there a reason the same would not work on a blaster?
Interesting. I haven't noticed a diode on other bikes but now that you mention it I suspect there is one on the Polaris Trailboss 250 I'm working on now. I can't say I know if that would work on the Blaster. (I haven't seen any Blasters like that at this point either.)
This is a separate circuit from the cdi/ecu. They are an ac system on the blaster. This separates the system into a dc system for lighting and ac for ignition. Completely separate from the cdi/ecu. It will have no impact on it.
Brake light will be a part of the new dc system tied to the battery and separated from the ac system. So yes it will still function but on a different electrical system. Note that my Blaster does not have a multifunction brake light like the gen2 Blasters. I can’t say specifically how they are wired in to have a multifunction when the brake is applied but if it is simply ‘on’ with the high/low beam then yes it will still function the same if you put it on the new dc circuit.
Easy to find but be advised the blaster is an ac charging system and battery systems are dc. You will need to convert your stator etc for it to work without destroying things. As to wear to but, I tend to use 12v golf cart charging units that can be found on Amazon EBay. That said there are also ‘kits’ you can buy for the Blaster from South Texas Banshee. You may have to reach out to them for the product but may prove to be an easier route. Good luck :).
@@VermontLife thanks I actually want to do it the same way you explained it on the video I just wanted to know wear to buy the part to fallow part by part to do the same thing but I want to have everything ready to be able to do that modification and do it the way you show in the video
@onesimoalvarado6449 I have another video for a Blaster wiring harness that has the parts laid out in it in my latest blaster build series that might help as well.
Yes, this is simply a replacement stator with a bigger lighting coil. Stock stator will put out 55watts of power vs this one which output 75watts. Plenty of guys do this to stock stators so they can put an LED on and battery/charging system.
This wouldn’t have anything to do with the quad firing, just the lighting system. If it won’t fire first check the basics. (Fuel flow, compression and spark) That will give you an idea of where to start. Let me know if I can help more.
@@twofortyrida Yes, check out 4:48 time stamp or so where I talk about what to do with the fifth wire on a gen two stator being used on a gen 1 Blaster. If it's a gen 2 just leave that green ground going to the cdi as it is grounding for the AC system. Essentially you can forget about that green wire going to the cdi and just focus on the lighting coil wires as I described. Good Luck.
@@VermontLife awesome I appreciate it. So basically leave all the factory wiring minus the lighting wire. Then run floated ground wire and it to the rectifier/reg then to battery
You went through the float process then went direct to the lights? You really do want to have the battery and regulator in the mix to provide stable power otherwise I would expect you’d over power the light bulb. Be sure to run the lights off the battery leg for a consistent 12v.
El cable negro q puso de la bobina de luces a donde se conecta bro
Best video on youtube for converting a Blaster to DC 👍🔥🔥🔥🔥
Thanks, I appreciate the comment.
you save the life of my yfm 200 (4t) ... 👍👍👍
doesn't the stator have seperate charge, trigger and lighting outputs already, and can't the lighting output go through a half-bridge rectifier without floating it? (maybe small capacitor to make it continuous dc that doesn't drop to 0v every engine rotation)...?
Would it work with the original lighting circuit or would i have to do anything different to make work with oem lighting circuit in my head seems like if i still wire yellow and red wire and still have rectifier on same wire and then earth battery to frame/ engine would it still work ?
In this case I converted the lighting system to dc power then put a regulator in to provide a consistent 13-14volts to the battery so I didn’t kill it. In the scenario you are proposing you would need to find some form of regulator/rectifier that does the conversion from ac to dc, then regulates the output to the battery otherwise you risk destroying your battery. I’m out of my depth though. I would suspect if you put a dc regulator on an ac circuit you would have issues and fry something.
Did you ever figure out how to wire this to the stock light switch with the off and run switch (red yellow green blue yellow-red wires) ?? Would really like to do this
Not yet, I have another Blaster build coming up once I finish off the Trailboss I’m working on now. I’d like to figure it out to as it would give a nice clean look.
@@VermontLife awesome man keep me updated I’d love to accomplish this!
The older Yamaha bikes just used a diode going to the battery and retained the AC voltage regulator. Is there a reason the same would not work on a blaster?
Interesting. I haven't noticed a diode on other bikes but now that you mention it I suspect there is one on the Polaris Trailboss 250 I'm working on now. I can't say I know if that would work on the Blaster. (I haven't seen any Blasters like that at this point either.)
I wanna do this but will this mess with the reliability of my coil like destroy it? Cause my cdi or ecu to break faster
Also would be brake light still be functioning?
This is a separate circuit from the cdi/ecu. They are an ac system on the blaster. This separates the system into a dc system for lighting and ac for ignition. Completely separate from the cdi/ecu. It will have no impact on it.
Brake light will be a part of the new dc system tied to the battery and separated from the ac system. So yes it will still function but on a different electrical system. Note that my Blaster does not have a multifunction brake light like the gen2 Blasters. I can’t say specifically how they are wired in to have a multifunction when the brake is applied but if it is simply ‘on’ with the high/low beam then yes it will still function the same if you put it on the new dc circuit.
Hi umm wear can I get or buy the charging system so I can put a battery on my Yamaha blaster
Easy to find but be advised the blaster is an ac charging system and battery systems are dc. You will need to convert your stator etc for it to work without destroying things. As to wear to but, I tend to use 12v golf cart charging units that can be found on Amazon EBay. That said there are also ‘kits’ you can buy for the Blaster from South Texas Banshee. You may have to reach out to them for the product but may prove to be an easier route. Good luck :).
@@VermontLife thanks I actually want to do it the same way you explained it on the video I just wanted to know wear to buy the part to fallow part by part to do the same thing but I want to have everything ready to be able to do that modification and do it the way you show in the video
@onesimoalvarado6449 I have another video for a Blaster wiring harness that has the parts laid out in it in my latest blaster build series that might help as well.
@@VermontLife thank you I’ll check it out
Does blaster come with a Battery? I heard that somebody said it wasn't.....
It doesn’t come with a battery. This would be a mod to be able to add a battery with a charging system.
Could you do this with the stock stator ?
Yes, this is simply a replacement stator with a bigger lighting coil. Stock stator will put out 55watts of power vs this one which output 75watts. Plenty of guys do this to stock stators so they can put an LED on and battery/charging system.
Thanks!
Did this actually work I have the same stator an still couldn’t get my bike to fire
This wouldn’t have anything to do with the quad firing, just the lighting system. If it won’t fire first check the basics. (Fuel flow, compression and spark) That will give you an idea of where to start. Let me know if I can help more.
Will this work on a 5 wire as well?
A five wire? can you elaborate for me?
Are you referring to a five wire stator?
@@VermontLife yessir. The 5 wire stators for a blaster. Mine is a second gen 03-06
@@twofortyrida Yes, check out 4:48 time stamp or so where I talk about what to do with the fifth wire on a gen two stator being used on a gen 1 Blaster. If it's a gen 2 just leave that green ground going to the cdi as it is grounding for the AC system. Essentially you can forget about that green wire going to the cdi and just focus on the lighting coil wires as I described. Good Luck.
@@VermontLife awesome I appreciate it. So basically leave all the factory wiring minus the lighting wire. Then run floated ground wire and it to the rectifier/reg then to battery
I did mine except didn't put the battery in and my dam headlight fried.
You went through the float process then went direct to the lights? You really do want to have the battery and regulator in the mix to provide stable power otherwise I would expect you’d over power the light bulb. Be sure to run the lights off the battery leg for a consistent 12v.
Bro el cable negro en dónde lo conecta el q saco de la bobina de luces