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Harness to the coil is typically orange although it would come from the cdi and not the harness if that helps.

Nothing leaking on it. I have either seen Blasters with nothing on the hole and this area full of mud/debris packed in that area of the case. (Not great) I’ve seen tape. (Had tape on one of mine until I did this.) Or I see folks reuse the existing rubber plug by pulling the oil lines then capping the holes in the plug with silicone/rtv etc. This fix is awesome as it requires no extra work, works if the through plug was thrown out with the oil kit, no silcone, no money etc.

Can’t wait for your next video to come out . Keep up the great work you do I will keep watching.

Interesting… brown to red completes a circuit. Then the black to black/white tracer closed the other circuit… interesting. Thanks for posting back. I’ve had switches come in wired in the reverse as some quads need the black/black white tracer circuit open for spark. Yamaha Blaster gen one closing the circuit kills spark for example.) Seems vendors post more model compatibility than is actually the case sometimes. :)

Thinking about it. This one is proving to be pretty solid so some upgrades could be nice to improve comfort for longer rides.

I’ve got a big bear 350 mine is a 94

Thanks. It’s a ton of fun.

The crank gaskets? Grab the part number off a place like rockymountainatv.com by searching under oem. Once you have the part number and put it into Google you’ll find a bunch of places to get them. I know Amazon and EBay also have them.

Thanks for the insight. I think I had my understanding backwards. (In my list of things to learn about is more about two stroke pipe design.)

Interesting, thank you.

Hmm, I’m not sure your stock carb is going to do that any justice. Best advice I can give is join a few Facebook groups for the Blaster and post your setup. There’s a few good groups but the one I’ve had the best knowledgeable advice out of is called ‘Yamaha YFS200 Blaster’. I’d be making guesses and have a feeling that if you want to achieve a noticeable increase in power you’re going to want to change up your carb and air intake as a minimum to see the gains. Join that group and get a feel for what guys are doing with the 240’s. There’s a lot of power potential there.

Ooo ok thinks

Got a quick question when when u get the big bore kit does the ring gap come checked already or u got to do it your self??

Always double check if you have the means. (It should be fine but it’s nice to have the confidence of having validated if you’re having an issue down the road and have to tear it apart to see if you should have.) Ask me how I know :)

Got an another question what’s the gap right gap for the rings ??

Ultimately with this setup they are keihin jets so the numbers don’t align to stock Mikuni jets. This is a 45 pilot and 165 main now. If you’re doing a stock build the stock carb factory jets would have been 32.5 pilot and 230 main from Mikuni but again these are two very different carbs between this one and a stock one. I wouldn’t have been able to use a stock carb even with larger jets on this build.

I have a link in one of the videos in the series. Ultimately it was an aftermarket but it fit great. If you check the descriptions in the videos in the series you should find it.

Absolutely! You should see some of the other salvage atvs I have in the playlists. I enjoy these abandoned ‘projects’.

@@VermontLife I followed ur blaster build did great job on that . I'm across the lake in ny

@mikewisher4083 small world. I keep thinking of heading out to NY a little west of you to NYOA for an XC race if I can get myself organized.

Loving it (the blue one) but it’s not a 240. It’s once bored over on an oem cylinder with a 3mm stroker crank and rechambered head (among other things.) I’d have to do the math but it’s not a 240.

@@VermontLife keep up the good work and I will keep watching.

Thanks for the note and glad it's helping.

That doesn’t seem right. I can say I didn’t need to pound anything. Do you think cleaning it up with a Brillo pad or some sand paper then greasing will do the trick or is it way off in size?

@VermontLife Not sure, it appears to be the same size. I'm getting ready to go out there and try to figure it out. Thanks for getting back to me, I didn't think it should be so tight. Getting a wrong/bad part from ebay, imagine that 😒

It's a night and day difference. For anyone thinking of building one up for themself I'd say to build the suspension first, then motor if you still want to. Improving the suspension handling changes the entire feel and rideability even with a stock motor. Considering you already have a big motor I think you'll find that going long travel with some decent shocks and a good steering setup will really open up the fun and comfort.

I had beeswax handy due to having a few hives here and left over burrcomb. Thought I’d try it.

Keep up the great builds you are doing I will keep watching

Lower front of the motor. It’s about the size of a can of soda and will have a black wire running to it from the battery.

@@VermontLife ok thanks

I actually reached out to the owner for some specs. It’s about 4.5 lbs with hardware included. The plate is .5" uhmw polyethylene.

I hadn’t heard that name before. Im having trouble finding them on Google to check them out.

I haven’t had any interference. It’s much cleaner compared to using an FRS radio which I also use for other communications that tends to have a lot of static. Especially clear when on the cell network and going phone to phone too.

@@VermontLife thanks for the reply !

I was actually thinking about that last night. One of the Blasters is a 2nd gear wheelie throttle wheelie machine on a 13t front and I’m thinking of going 14 for some stability and additional speed.

@@VermontLife I’m not so much a speed guy with the blasters as I am w/BANSHEES (you can see in my shorts/post) but just the rideablity in the woods, trails, and hills with out having to shift as much is WAY LESS WEAR on the SHIFT FORKS and having to run the rod out of the machine in high RPM. It is the BEST upgrade for the $10 I did on it

Loving the blasters. Looks like you bought every one in town! Lol Everyone needs more ZZTop in their life!

@Tharpification gotta love some good ZZTop :).

That’s awesome! Glad it helped.

I know right. It’s a Blaster farm over here right now.

The frame is ‘neon yellow ps-1104’ by prismatic colors. Thanks for the note.

One of the first I pulled. Looking back now I cringe a little bit :).

And I take that back… this one was the Polaris I did with in the last few years and yes, painful. Super neglected atvs.

Thanks for the insight. It’s a little odd but I can’t see that any mounts were stressed or bent to see why it’s so tight. So far so good though.

Yes, an air leak can make your two stroke rev to the moon like a runaway. Kills compression making starting and running tough but the lean condition can/will wreck a motor.

Pretty sure it was on its way there until I stepped in. Pretty solid learning experience when just about everything is in a broken state :).

In this case I converted the lighting system to dc power then put a regulator in to provide a consistent 13-14volts to the battery so I didn’t kill it. In the scenario you are proposing you would need to find some form of regulator/rectifier that does the conversion from ac to dc, then regulates the output to the battery otherwise you risk destroying your battery. I’m out of my depth though. I would suspect if you put a dc regulator on an ac circuit you would have issues and fry something.

Thanks for the note! Glad you’ve been enjoying the journey.

Thanks for the insight. I’ll give it another go. It’s been running well so it would make sense. That or my knock off compression tester is also way off :).

Yup kick it like it owes you money. Yeah those cheap compression tester are junk, tusk makes a cheap on that is alrite.

@@CourtJ_ml9to kinda looks like the front grab bar is missing it’s SO BLACK vs THE GREEN

I’m anxious to know the clearances too.. sound like alil piston slap.. I presume it’s a new top-end on this build??

Dyno out here would be awesome. So far I haven’t had any luck finding a place in driving distance that will do/can do an atv.

@@VermontLife they are hard to find because of cost and the knowledge of how to even run one. The one here in Illinois is a “load cell dyno jet chassis dyno (motorcycle/dirt bike/SxS/quad/go-cart)

I hope u didn’t use synthetic (premix) in ur oil-gas mix too.. on “break-in” so the rings seat is 16:1, 3-heats “slight revs” up to operating temp 170’s with crappy “non-synthetic” oil

No troubles so far but what are your thoughts on other makes that also give heel protection?

@@VermontLife I HEAR you ON THAT part that’s forsure…. I’ve left the original heal guards on both my blasters

You had me thinking for a bit about what clamp you were talking about. The exhaust clamp right? Makes perfect sense now that you mention it. I’ll do that. Thanks. Sometimes you can’t believe how obvious something is in hindsight :).

@@VermontLife the air filter flange hose clamp

Yeah, I stopped short for sure. Thanks all for the comments.

@@VermontLife I believe SOME people just do certain things wrong to CREATE the COMMENTS but I see ur TRUE ADMIRATION and ENJOYMENT when working/riding that machine so when I saw ur disappointment on a engine u just put together I HAD TO SAY SOMETHING!!