Thanks so much for these great tutorials. I imagine I'm not the only one who not only watches these to answer a specific question, but will actually just have these on in the background - a bit like an album that you like to have playing while you clean or something. I figure that makes you my mechanical influence.
One more comment. Glad you are enjoying NC. I grew up not far from where you are (but now live on the West Coast). In fact my Jr High School gym teacher Mr. Henderson was a Hendersonville Henderson ;-)
Just tore into my 1980 40mm front calipers. Needed all your tricks and went just the way it needed to. Thx!!! Headed to your parts site to buy all the replacement items right now!
Did you say you'll be working on a monolever R80RT ??... checked again.... you did !!.. It's a sign from above !! I'm just about to begin bringing my 1985 back to life! ( 21k original miles. Time to lube the splines. I last rode it in 1995) Picking up a motorcycle lift tomorrow... Bless Harbor Freight ! ( the fairing removal & reinstall frightens me !!) BTW.. I winced when you used compressed air on the caliper without safety goggles... brake fluid or solvent sprayed in the eyes can't be good ! Thank you for these videos.. they help a lot, and I'm sure have inspired garage mechanics such as myself. Looking forward to ordering parts!
thanks... packing bearings: by holding inner race (allowing the roller bearing cage to wiggle) using bearing cage to scrape grease from palm... scraping in the same direction (allowing grease to squish in between rollers and inner race)... until sufficient grease has filled voids (squishing out between rollers and cage)... slowly turn roller cage to confirm grease has filled all voids.
I think that the square nylon ring, is more than just a seal. It get sucked out of its groove/seat when the pressure is applied, and the piston moves to push against the pads. The nylon ring is a rigid shape (think of it as memory, if you twist it, it will always return to it's original shape) and gently sucks the piston back once the pressure if released. Similar to the Brembo calipers, the squareness of it also acts as a retractor for the piston after the pressure subsides. Otherwise, the pads would drag all the time. I think it is a brilliant, if not stump simple bit of effective engineering. It is, therefore critical that the groove that the nylon ring seats into is very clean and no aluminum corrosion, so the the nylon memory can return back to a fully seated position. It's also why the clearance is so tight on the piston in the caliper. ATE brakes need all the help they can get, in the effectiveness department. My $0.02.
Loving the videos. I have an R90/6 that I've owned (and ridden daily) since 1978. I've rebuild the master cylinder at least twice and can't remember if this is normal or not. When I pull the brake lever with the master cylinder cap off there is a noticeable "burble" on the surface of the fluid inside. Sometimes a small amount of fluid will be squirt out of the master cylinder (which tends to make a mess unless I have a cloth positioned to absorb it). Is this normal? Or do I need to re-do my MC rebuild? Thanks in advance for help/advice.
hello its great to see your videos & watch you at work- would you let us know from where did you get these pistons & the overhaul kit- most of the people only sell the seals- i would look for the pistons as well- can you send is this information- i am looking for 38 mm pistons.
Download your copy of this episode to view anytime and anywhere. We now have Downloads of each episode and the entire series available through our website for a VERY small price! Why pay for a download? Not only does this help ensure you will always have access to this video but it also supports our video team with proceeds for video equipment maintenance and new production gear to help us create additional 2 Valve focused videos. Find the Digital Downloads and Parts Used in this video here: www.boxer2valve.com/r906-20-part-1-brakes-front-wheel.html
When you assembled the new wheel bearings,I can't understand why the spacer wasn't correct to the wheel.Why would the spacer need adjustment? Wasn't it built correctly to seat the bearing correctly?I must have missed something.I appreciate your attention to detail
Truth Decay,- I have the same bike, and have had these problems in the past. Make sure there is good supply from fluid tank. Make sure the master cyl piston has free play and is returning FULLY inside cylinder, Remove the master cyl outlet steel pipe, pump the pedal to ensure a good pressure and amount of fluid is squirting out. Reconnect outlet pipe and pump a number of times. Remove caliper from carrier, wedge both caliper pistons fully into caliper. Position bleed nipple in uppermost position, and bleed several times. This will remove all air in system and give you a good solid pedal. I modified my rear brake by making a extended master cyl operating lever by 1cm, This gives a much more powerful brake. Hope this helps ?
Another great video. You mentioned a cover for the damper mechanism but I didn't see you install one. After watching your video I looked at my two bikes and neither one had one. I checked my parts manual and have PN 31421234398. Do you have a picture of one? Thanks
It's very common for these to be missing. They were glued on and the adhesive eventually failed and the seal would fall off. We don't have a picture at the moment but please check our web site in the near future as we will be stocking this part. The part number that you stated is correct.
Hey guys, love the videos. In good old germany they have a product that is a assembly lube for calipers. Made buy ATE. it is called Bremszylinder paste brake cylinder paste. www.ate-info.de/en/details/produkte/ate-bremszylinder-paste-180-ml
Thanks, we have that now too! You will find it on our web site under part number 2290212 www.boxer2valve.com/Merchant5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=bmw2valve&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=2290212
These videos as so helpful for novices keeping their bikes in running order. Thank you so much!
Thanks so much for these great tutorials. I imagine I'm not the only one who not only watches these to answer a specific question, but will actually just have these on in the background - a bit like an album that you like to have playing while you clean or something. I figure that makes you my mechanical influence.
Another master class. You are the digital "ask Oak", IMHO.
Glad NC is working out for you but sad to see you leave California. Keep up the excellent videos! Best airhead videos on the internet by far.
Thank you so much for your wonderful videos! So much information and very well done! Looking forward to more!
Your videos have helped me out heaps on my 75/6 keep up the good work champ!
One more comment. Glad you are enjoying NC. I grew up not far from where you are (but now live on the West Coast). In fact my Jr High School gym teacher Mr. Henderson was a Hendersonville Henderson ;-)
Just tore into my 1980 40mm front calipers. Needed all your tricks and went just the way it needed to. Thx!!! Headed to your parts site to buy all the replacement items right now!
Great! Thank you!
El mejor de todos. Muchas gracias por la informacion, magníficos vídeos.
Bedankt voor de mooie video's met duidelijke uitleg.
Wonderful!!. At the end!.
Long time waiting for your vídeos and the R90/6!!
Yep, we're back! Thanks for the patience- between our move and everything else.
Thank you for the excellent video. Extremely informative and of the highest quality. Subscribed!
Glad you enjoyed. Thanks for the support.
Amazing video
Fantastic love these tutorials excellent great stuff watching down here in Tasmania
Awesome, thank you!
Many thenks for the great tutorials, my R75/5 is running after a refurbish of the carb"s, now the sync is the last thing I have to do.
Grtz. Mike
Nice work!
Did you say you'll be working on a monolever R80RT ??... checked again.... you did !!.. It's a sign from above !!
I'm just about to begin bringing my 1985 back to life! ( 21k original miles. Time to lube the splines. I last rode it in 1995) Picking up a motorcycle lift tomorrow... Bless Harbor Freight ! ( the fairing removal & reinstall frightens me !!)
BTW.. I winced when you used compressed air on the caliper without safety goggles... brake fluid or solvent sprayed in the eyes can't be good !
Thank you for these videos.. they help a lot, and I'm sure have inspired garage mechanics such as myself.
Looking forward to ordering parts!
thanks... packing bearings: by holding inner race (allowing the roller bearing cage to wiggle) using bearing cage to scrape grease from palm... scraping in the same direction (allowing grease to squish in between rollers and inner race)... until sufficient grease has filled voids (squishing out between rollers and cage)... slowly turn roller cage to confirm grease has filled all voids.
I think that the square nylon ring, is more than just a seal. It get sucked out of its groove/seat when the pressure is applied, and the piston moves to push against the pads. The nylon ring is a rigid shape (think of it as memory, if you twist it, it will always return to it's original shape) and gently sucks the piston back once the pressure if released. Similar to the Brembo calipers, the squareness of it also acts as a retractor for the piston after the pressure subsides. Otherwise, the pads would drag all the time. I think it is a brilliant, if not stump simple bit of effective engineering. It is, therefore critical that the groove that the nylon ring seats into is very clean and no aluminum corrosion, so the the nylon memory can return back to a fully seated position. It's also why the clearance is so tight on the piston in the caliper. ATE brakes need all the help they can get, in the effectiveness department. My $0.02.
Happy day..
TGIF, Antonio
I just ordered rear brake caliper rebuild kit
Loving the videos. I have an R90/6 that I've owned (and ridden daily) since 1978. I've rebuild the master cylinder at least twice and can't remember if this is normal or not. When I pull the brake lever with the master cylinder cap off there is a noticeable "burble" on the surface of the fluid inside. Sometimes a small amount of fluid will be squirt out of the master cylinder (which tends to make a mess unless I have a cloth positioned to absorb it). Is this normal? Or do I need to re-do my MC rebuild? Thanks in advance for help/advice.
hello its great to see your videos & watch you at work- would you let us know from where did you get these pistons & the overhaul kit- most of the people only sell the seals- i would look for the pistons as well- can you send is this information- i am looking for 38 mm pistons.
Download your copy of this episode to view anytime and anywhere.
We now have Downloads of each episode and the entire series available through our website for a VERY small price!
Why pay for a download? Not only does this help ensure you will always have access to this video but it also supports our video team with proceeds for video equipment maintenance and new production gear to help us create additional 2 Valve focused videos.
Find the Digital Downloads and Parts Used in this video here: www.boxer2valve.com/r906-20-part-1-brakes-front-wheel.html
When you assembled the new wheel bearings,I can't understand why the spacer wasn't correct to the wheel.Why would the spacer need adjustment? Wasn't it built correctly to seat the bearing correctly?I must have missed something.I appreciate your attention to detail
Hello .. I own a 1979 r100 airhead.. would u know the most effective/easiest rear brake bleed procedure? Any help is appreciated
Truth Decay,- I have the same bike, and have had these problems in the past.
Make sure there is good supply from fluid tank.
Make sure the master cyl piston has free play and is returning FULLY inside cylinder,
Remove the master cyl outlet steel pipe, pump the pedal to ensure a good pressure and amount of fluid
is squirting out.
Reconnect outlet pipe and pump a number of times.
Remove caliper from carrier, wedge both caliper pistons fully into caliper.
Position bleed nipple in uppermost position, and bleed several times.
This will remove all air in system and give you a good solid pedal.
I modified my rear brake by making a extended master cyl operating lever
by 1cm, This gives a much more powerful brake.
Hope this helps ?
me ha sorprendido que no has calentado la rueda antes de sacar los rodamientos...
más impotante es que calientas cuando lo instalas. Con las herramientas adecuadas, puede quitar los rodamientos en frío.
Another great video. You mentioned a cover for the damper mechanism but I didn't see you install one. After watching your video I looked at my two bikes and neither one had one. I checked my parts manual and have PN 31421234398. Do you have a picture of one? Thanks
It's very common for these to be missing. They were glued on and the adhesive eventually failed and the seal would fall off. We don't have a picture at the moment but please check our web site in the near future as we will be stocking this part. The part number that you stated is correct.
Hey guys, love the videos. In good old germany they have a product that is a assembly lube for calipers. Made buy ATE. it is called Bremszylinder paste brake cylinder paste. www.ate-info.de/en/details/produkte/ate-bremszylinder-paste-180-ml
Thanks, we have that now too! You will find it on our web site under part number 2290212
www.boxer2valve.com/Merchant5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=bmw2valve&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=2290212