Download your copy of this episode to view anytime and anywhere. We now have Downloads of each episode and the entire series available through our website for a VERY small price! Why pay for a download? Not only does this help ensure you will always have access to this video but it also supports our video team with proceeds for video equipment maintenance and new production gear to help us create additional 2 Valve focused videos. Find the Digital Downloads and Parts Used in this video here: www.boxer2valve.com/r906-20-part-2-brakes-front-wheel-assembly.html
Hey William, your videos are like looking a master over his shoulder, so called here in Germany. No, of course not 'like'! It IS looking over the masters shoulder. Greetings from near Munich.
Thank you! This video was very helpful since it was so thorough. It will help me with my brake issues (brake failure light on and causing bike not to start). I have a 1980 R100t that I put my Ural sidecar on.
Such a phenomenal video!! You've covered every imaginable detail that I am going to need on the impending brake rebuild on my R100/7. Got all the parts from you too! Us Airheads are lucky to have you guys
I’ve been a motorcycle mechanic for twenty years on Japanese bikes- I can’t tell you how valuable these videos are- a credit to you taking the time to pass on your Bmw knowledge. Thanks!
@@boxer2valve It would have been simpler to use a handlebar mounted master cylinder from a post-81 boxer and that would have given you more effective brakes
Glad you are back, William. Sorry to hear of the ransomware incident. Love your calm manner and explanations during the videos. Would love to see a wheel re-spoking video when you have the chance. Thanks again!
Great to see you back! Greatly appreciate all the videos you have made. You have been a great help on my /6 build. Will definitely be getting some products from you. Look forward to the next video! Safe travels my friend.
I followed this video step by step. Great video. I did run into one issue not covered in the video (or maybe I missed it?). There is a little sleeve that must go on at the hand control unit along with the cable. When I got my cable, I tried to install it per the video, which didn't mention the required sleeve. The sleeve comes with post-09/1975 model cables, but for the pre-1975 models, the sleeve is sold separate from the cable. Just something I learned and wanted to share.
@@boxer2valve Quick question for you. I have purchase both the BMW Cable, and an aftermarket cable. Both of which seem too short...either that, or the cylinder used to push the MC piston is too long (I purchased a brand new MC). Any thoughts? Have you ever run into this issue?
Another great video. I was going to pick up a pair of your hydraulic lines for my 74 R90s. Keep the original look, similar to BMWs product, etc. So much conversation about using stainless braided, which I get. Seems you have no problem going with the new rubber ones, which gives me a vote of confidence. Thanks
Hello Pat, Stainless lines are pretty cool but a new rubber line is also a huge improvement over a tired old one, and the original appearance is retained.
? The manual says to make sure the hole in the axle (right side) is parallel to the ground. Always wondered why & what if it's not ? Noticed you did it. As I look at other bikes seems like ~70-75% do that, 15-20% it's vertical, 10% random....been trying to get this answered for ~40 years....THANKS Your videos are amazing !
Thank you for your thorough and well produced videos. They are incredibly helpful. My R100RS was converted to use a handlebar mounted master cylinder and a splitter under the tank. I’m having trouble getting proper pressure at the handle. Do I need to bench bleed them? I didn’t install a New system just new pads and fluid flush.
Assume bleeding dual disk would be the same process?...Tube. Loosen bleeder. Draw fluid through. Pump lever while doing to get air out. Tighten. Repeat on other side? TY!
How tight do you torque down the plug at 25:00? The Haynes manual indicates that 44-48 ft-lbs of torque is required for the “caliper pivot retention plug” but I’m not sure if this is what that is referring to.
Brilliant! Just wrestled with bleeding the front brakes on my R100S today and you’ve answered a number of my questions. Also, would like to know if the Lubri-Moly oils you sell are compatible with airheads. I believe the older engines need high zinc, etc. content. Thanks again!
Great! Glad that we could help. The Liqui Moly Mineral based oils that we offer are ideal for your airhead! I suggest 20W-50 in very hot climates and 15W-50 everywhere else.
i HAVE A PROBLEM.. I installed the kit (correctly). piston moves smoothly. but not getting ANY fluid to move at all. Even with the lines off the master cylinder. no fluid comes out of the master right at the line hook up. What is the problem??
Awesome videos! I just bought a R75/6 -75 with twin disc brakes, which i am currently restoring. Your videos help a lot! I am considering a wider handle bar than i currently have, and i need to change the brake wire. Does anyone know if i can use a different (longer) brake cable between the brake handle and the master cylinder than the OEM for my handle bar? Perhaps one from a GS model?
R75/7-rebuilt my caliper with kit, new brake pads, and new brake line. The brakes are working OK, but now at medium speeds (~45 mph) I get major front tire wobble that wasn't there before. Any ideas what I might have done wrong?
Hi Dan, it's hard to say what may be causing that but I would say double check your work. Make sure the axle nut is tightened before tightening the pinch bolts. You shouldn't need to take everything apart but do put a wrench on everything you touched and make sure everything is correctly tightened and adjusted.
Guys, Saying hello from the UK, loving this series in preparation for getting a restoration project myself. I have the chance of a ‘76 R75/6 but it has a twin disc setup on the front. I thought only the 90S came with 2 discs or was it an option on other models?
Hi, I believe that it was possible to order a dual disk setup in Europe when the bike was ordered new. It's also possible that someone retrofitted the second disk later. Either way, when it comes to brakes, more is better! Grab it!
Thanks for the reply, I did some more digging and confirm that it was a dealer fit option on 76/6 and 90/6, obviously not 60/6. I missed out on ‘76 I was looking at but pick up a ‘75 R75/6 in a couple of days 👍
I have a 79 R100 airhead.. do you have any video on the rear brake bleed procedure? Everywhere I look there’s no really any solid procedures. Thank you
A vacuum bleeder should do the trick but if you can't bet all of the air out, which can sometimes be the case, remove the rear wheel and caliper and find for example some thin plywood, about the same thickness as the brake disk. Place that between the pads and try it while elevating the caliper as much as possible while bleeding.
No, I never find a need. The inside of the cables are coated, I believe with Teflon, or some sort of plastic and they don't need to be lubed internally and they last a long time. You should lube both ends of the clutch cable and pretty often!
William, been trying to reach you guys by phone and email without success. Looking to purchase some parts but need to discuss a few technical issues. What’s the best way to connect?
Hi Frank, Sorry about that. We get really busy sometimes here! Best way to reach us is through the contact form on our web site. We really try to keep up on that as best we can!
Download your copy of this episode to view anytime and anywhere.
We now have Downloads of each episode and the entire series available through our website for a VERY small price!
Why pay for a download? Not only does this help ensure you will always have access to this video but it also supports our video team with proceeds for video equipment maintenance and new production gear to help us create additional 2 Valve focused videos.
Find the Digital Downloads and Parts Used in this video here: www.boxer2valve.com/r906-20-part-2-brakes-front-wheel-assembly.html
William, thank you for the valuable information on front disc brake installation & adjustment. Very easy to follow along with your video.
Always brilliant..! Many thanks!
Immer informativ, nach 40 Jahren Airhead-Besitz lerne ich jedes Mal etwas, wenn William die offizielle Erklärung liefert
Excellent instructional video-thank you!
Thank You for the caliper adjustment procedure. Best method yet, so simple, quick, and easy.
Glad it helped
What symptoms would the bike have if the caliper were not properly adjusted? I'm trying to diagnose a front brake vibration. Might this be the cause?
Hey William, your videos are like looking a master over his shoulder, so called here in Germany. No, of course not 'like'! It IS looking over the masters shoulder. Greetings from near Munich.
Best BMW videos on the Internet... Thank you...
you have solved some of my issues, I thank you. All I needed was some education... My R100S will be all the better because I subscribed to you.
Super Cool ! We're glad this helped.
Thanks for sharing your expertise in such a pleasant and enjoyable manner.
Thank you! This video was very helpful since it was so thorough. It will help me with my brake issues (brake failure light on and causing bike not to start). I have a 1980 R100t that I put my Ural sidecar on.
Such a phenomenal video!! You've covered every imaginable detail that I am going to need on the impending brake rebuild on my R100/7. Got all the parts from you too!
Us Airheads are lucky to have you guys
Great to have you back. Was waiting for the brake system video to finish my r90S. Best videos, best teacher :-)
Great to be back. Thanks for the support!
I’ve been a motorcycle mechanic for twenty years on Japanese bikes- I can’t tell you how valuable these videos are- a credit to you taking the time to pass on your Bmw knowledge. Thanks!
Can ipowdercoat my alloy wheels .lts a 1979 r100 rs I have been following you vids it’s got a way to go but it’s coming together thanks. DB
@@boxer2valve It would have been simpler to use a handlebar mounted master cylinder from a post-81 boxer and that would have given you more effective brakes
Glad you are back, William. Sorry to hear of the ransomware incident. Love your calm manner and explanations during the videos. Would love to see a wheel re-spoking video when you have the chance. Thanks again!
Thanks, James. We are glad to be up and running again.
I wish I had a master like you.
You're too kind !
Nice to see the works on the R90/6 continue. Brilliant, thank you William :-)
Glad to see you back. From airheads in Atlantic Canada! '74 R90S
Glad to be back! Cheers.
Excellent reference and tutorial. Thanks!
Glad to hear it. Stay tuned for more!
Thanx for posting.
Our pleasure!
Great to see you back! Greatly appreciate all the videos you have made. You have been a great help on my /6 build. Will definitely be getting some products from you. Look forward to the next video! Safe travels my friend.
Great videos lads. Glad you’re back showing us your tips and tricks.
Glad to see you back. And another great video to boot!!
I followed this video step by step. Great video. I did run into one issue not covered in the video (or maybe I missed it?). There is a little sleeve that must go on at the hand control unit along with the cable. When I got my cable, I tried to install it per the video, which didn't mention the required sleeve. The sleeve comes with post-09/1975 model cables, but for the pre-1975 models, the sleeve is sold separate from the cable. Just something I learned and wanted to share.
Thanks very much for sharing that information!
@@boxer2valve Quick question for you. I have purchase both the BMW Cable, and an aftermarket cable. Both of which seem too short...either that, or the cylinder used to push the MC piston is too long (I purchased a brand new MC). Any thoughts? Have you ever run into this issue?
Another great video. I was going to pick up a pair of your hydraulic lines for my 74 R90s. Keep the original look, similar to BMWs product, etc. So much conversation about using stainless braided, which I get. Seems you have no problem going with the new rubber ones, which gives me a vote of confidence. Thanks
Hello Pat,
Stainless lines are pretty cool but a new rubber line is also a huge improvement over a tired old one, and the original appearance is retained.
@@boxer2valve Man. Thanks for the quick reply. And thanks for all your work on these videos...so good!
Recent R90S which sold on BAT for $60,000 had rubber hoses 😉
? The manual says to make sure the hole in the axle (right side) is parallel to the ground. Always wondered why & what if it's not ? Noticed you did it. As I look at other bikes seems like ~70-75% do that, 15-20% it's vertical, 10% random....been trying to get this answered for ~40 years....THANKS Your videos are amazing !
Purfect timing to start on my /5 restoration!
Thank you for this amazing video. Is the process for a double front disc the same?
I have a 1977 r100/7
Thank you for your thorough and well produced videos. They are incredibly helpful. My R100RS was converted to use a handlebar mounted master cylinder and a splitter under the tank. I’m having trouble getting proper pressure at the handle. Do I need to bench bleed them? I didn’t install a New system just new pads and fluid flush.
Assume bleeding dual disk would be the same process?...Tube. Loosen bleeder. Draw fluid through. Pump lever while doing to get air out. Tighten. Repeat on other side? TY!
How tight do you torque down the plug at 25:00? The Haynes manual indicates that 44-48 ft-lbs of torque is required for the “caliper pivot retention plug” but I’m not sure if this is what that is referring to.
Brilliant! Just wrestled with bleeding the front brakes on my R100S today and you’ve answered a number of my questions. Also, would like to know if the Lubri-Moly oils you sell are compatible with airheads. I believe the older engines need high zinc, etc. content. Thanks again!
Great! Glad that we could help. The Liqui Moly Mineral based oils that we offer are ideal for your airhead! I suggest 20W-50 in very hot climates and 15W-50 everywhere else.
i HAVE A PROBLEM.. I installed the kit (correctly). piston moves smoothly. but not getting ANY fluid to move at all. Even with the lines off the master cylinder. no fluid comes out of the master right at the line hook up. What is the problem??
Could you please explain which connector goes where on the master cylinder (both brake light and on the fluid container). Thanks.
Brown and brown/blue are for the fluid level sensor. Green/black and green/red are for the stop light switch
He loves that LM47. LOL
Awesome videos! I just bought a R75/6 -75 with twin disc brakes, which i am currently restoring. Your videos help a lot! I am considering a wider handle bar than i currently have, and i need to change the brake wire. Does anyone know if i can use a different (longer) brake cable between the brake handle and the master cylinder than the OEM for my handle bar? Perhaps one from a GS model?
Hello Olaf, if you go with a GS bar you will probably need some new, longer cables.
R75/7-rebuilt my caliper with kit, new brake pads, and new brake line. The brakes are working OK, but now at medium speeds (~45 mph) I get major front tire wobble that wasn't there before. Any ideas what I might have done wrong?
Hi Dan, it's hard to say what may be causing that but I would say double check your work. Make sure the axle nut is tightened before tightening the pinch bolts. You shouldn't need to take everything apart but do put a wrench on everything you touched and make sure everything is correctly tightened and adjusted.
Guys, Saying hello from the UK, loving this series in preparation for getting a restoration project myself. I have the chance of a ‘76 R75/6 but it has a twin disc setup on the front. I thought only the 90S came with 2 discs or was it an option on other models?
Hi, I believe that it was possible to order a dual disk setup in Europe when the bike was ordered new. It's also possible that someone retrofitted the second disk later. Either way, when it comes to brakes, more is better! Grab it!
Thanks for the reply, I did some more digging and confirm that it was a dealer fit option on 76/6 and 90/6, obviously not 60/6. I missed out on ‘76 I was looking at but pick up a ‘75 R75/6 in a couple of days 👍
I have a 79 R100 airhead.. do you have any video on the rear brake bleed procedure? Everywhere I look there’s no really any solid procedures. Thank you
A vacuum bleeder should do the trick but if you can't bet all of the air out, which can sometimes be the case, remove the rear wheel and caliper and find for example some thin plywood, about the same thickness as the brake disk. Place that between the pads and try it while elevating the caliper as much as possible while bleeding.
boxer2valve BMW Restoration and Parts Supplier Thank u so much. I will pass along to my buddy who will be performing the work.
do you ever clean and/or lube your cables?
No, I never find a need. The inside of the cables are coated, I believe with Teflon, or some sort of plastic and they don't need to be lubed internally and they last a long time. You should lube both ends of the clutch cable and pretty often!
apprentice needs grand master.
Thanks Osman !
William, been trying to reach you guys by phone and email without success. Looking to purchase some parts but need to discuss a few technical issues. What’s the best way to connect?
Hi Frank, Sorry about that. We get really busy sometimes here! Best way to reach us is through the contact form on our web site. We really try to keep up on that as best we can!
What tire is that on the front?
We installed Continental RB2 front and K112 rear
Looks great