This fella is a dying breed.. Knows his stuff and cares enough to educate those of us willing to learn. I know a few marine mechanics. I understand "time is money" and that teaching everyone how to do it themselves is bad for business, but in my experience you can't even ask a simple question without doling out a few hundred dollars.. Thank you so much for sharing your valuable knowledge and experience. 💪
Thanks for the kind words. Before I retired from Boeing I was the 747 team lead for installing landing gear and aft flaps. I not only helped our crew learn how to build the airplane but was the main contact for engineers looking for the technical support. After I retired I wanted to share my mechanical knowledge for the goal of saving folks time and money. In my opinion knowing your boat and motor is a safety must when out on the water. Also these 2 stroke motors allot of marine mechanics won't even work on anymore. All they like to work on is 4 stroke efi motors.
Thanks for your clear explanation. It helped me a lot. The younger generation at the dealership don't know how to work on a 2 stroke. Adjusting the timing wasn't a big deal. But I was fighting the link and sync but now I know how it should be. Regards from the Netherlands
Thanks Jimmy, my first outboard motor was a 2 stroke 5hp Johnson Seahorse. If you watch my video Playlist you will see I bought one to restore. Not a flip it's to keep till I pass on. Everytime I look at it memories of when I was a kid out on the lake come back. It was a blast to test it out on the lake. Ran great 👍
at least this video had the correct information. my prior one didn't so I put in the comments to watch this updated one. thanks for watching and glad it helped you with your motor
Not sure if I missed it, but what model or part number gauge are you using to monitor the rpm from the rear? Second question. My motor was rebuilt before I got it and seems to run fine most of the time, however it can be a pain in the rear most times when starting it up after being on the lake and wanting to move around. Tend to have to put the motor in neutral and start it, then hurry and slip it back in gear and throttle up before it tries to die on me. It sounds like an idle issue to me, any thoughts? Thank you and great videos, very helpful!
I bought the RPM hour gauge online for cheap and works good following the directions. I'll go out to my shop later to get the brand name. As far as your issue it sounds like a fuel delivery problem but you need to go through the whole motor and test it. First with checking compression, then spark on all cylinders, then link and sync and timing in that order. If that is all good make sure you have a new fuel filter and check you fuel pressure coming from your fuel pump. Should be 3.5psi. If not need to rebuild it.
@@TimsWorkshopTJY thank you for the feedback. I have gone through and checked compression on the motor and that is good like I said, they rebuilt the entire motor, pistons rings, etc. all the pumps so forth. Compression is good, spark is good on all three cylinders, I put a new fuel line all the way from the tank to the outboard because the previous line had seen better days. I’ve made sure that there’s not a kink or anything like that and the fuel flows up through the ball and gets hard when pumped and feeds the motor. I will have to check that pressure when running I’ll have to hook gauge onto it so I can try to see probably vacuum diaphragm style pump I imagine? I know there’s time whenever I go to drive it full throttle on the lake I get around 18 mph which for a 25 foot pontoon boat. I imagine it’s pretty decent with a 60 hp Bigfoot on the back, but it just feels like sometimes it’s lacking power so definitely fuel can be something I need to look at for sure just to make sure filters is not clogged up etc. I’m willing to bed though that the idle is definitely off. I can start it at the house with the water hose hooked up to it and it fires up almost instantly and sounds like a race engine, and you can rev it up in gear rev it up in neutral, I never do it in gear. I’m just saying it will do it, but when you put it on the water it’s hit or miss. It has a mind of its own sometimes. It makes it hard for me to go get the boat and back the trailer in and have somebody else in the boat, because if they don’t know how to control it just right out there trying to start the boat and don’t know what to do.
Ok, so first of all when on muff don't Rev it up any higher than 2500. Only in the lake or test tank. That's why folks put a test only prop on so they can test WOT tied up to a dock or in a test tank. 18 mpr with a pontoon boat is good. With my 17ft at 25mpr is hitting around 5000 rpm and 5500 is max for a 60hp especially big foot. Low end torque motors.
i have the same runleader Tach. but the setting it says to use in the manual deosnt seem to be showing the correct RPMs. what setting is yours set to here?
I went with the 3 cylinder and 6 if I remember. It tells you in the directions. When set right it will tell you the correct rpm reading. It has an hour and rpm. Took me a bit to figure out how to set it. Hour reading is kinda useless unless you have a new motor. Great for being back by the motor for testing
Hey Tim, I have a 99 60 hp almost exactly like yours. It takes a few times to crank or is cold natured. Once it warms up. It runs out strong and cranks right up. Usually happens after it sits up for 3-4 weeks. Is this normal or do I need to look at something?
Hi Ed, yes this is normal for older Mercs. Fuel related so what I do to get it to spark off right away is pump the ball firm with the arrow on the ball pointing up. Then push the key in for 3 seconds to enrich the carbs before starting. Mine will fire right off but if it starts to die push the key in just once and that will keep the motor running and should be good to go if not do it again till it runs on its own. There is another issue to be aware of too. Replace the pump ball fuel lines from the gray ones with black ones and stainless clamps. The ball is fine if it's not too old. Put a new fuel filter on at the beginning of each new boating season. Buy the marine black fuel lines not just regular auto parts fuel lines. CG appoved. A1 or B1. I use stainless clamps on those too and on the boat inside compartments from fuel tank double clamps are required per CG. This is for fire safety so it's very important. The gray pump ball fuel lines are junk and collapse restrictions fuel flow causing your motor to cut out from lack of fuel. 3.5psi pressure with no air bubbles. Thanks for watching Tim
Hi Tim Thanks for your videos. I have a 1995 60 Mariner elpto How do I connect an RPM guage to the motor internally? Can you help? I bought a new wire harness and I dont see where the tan wire connects?
I'll send you the wiring diagram. I have yet to do a video on this except to wire up a digital portable tach to the #1 spark plug cable and using long leads from the console back to motor to run my console tach. Check back later to see the link for the 60hp wiring diagram. It may be different from the Mariner though compared to my 1996 Mercury?
Mine is a 2009 50 ho Merc 2 stroke and today I got a new lower unit because my was completely shot. Went to test run it and it started revving up really fast and went into forward gear ..then the motor wouldn’t shut off. Had to let all the fuel run out of the carbs. Any clue what may cause this ?
Hi Steve, Wow that is a weird one. I'll have to look into it. My motor is a 1996 and is a CDI. Is yours a EFI? It could be several things that would cause it? I let you know if I come up with a starting point on it.
Buddy of mine told me my carburetor linkage maybe be stuck I just had all my carbs rebuilt a few weeks ago.. it’s either that or the idle screw maybe need to be adjusted. Or a combo of both
@@TimsWorkshopTJY No , I just had all 3 carbs rebuilt and my mechanic cleaned the linkage too. All 3 carbs cleaned and assembled for $120. He made them spotless I’m gonna mess with the motor tomorrow. Happy Easter Tim
I will the best I can sitting inside with Covid. Taking Paxlovid so it doesn't get worse. Just about everyone in our neighborhood has it and we are fully vaccinated and boosted. Made it all this way and just now got it so be safe it's still out there. Anyway on your motor did the guy do the follow procedures after the carb went back on? Have you watched what I did after reinstalling my carb? Check it out. Happy Easter Steve on?th-cam.com/video/CeU5CzgFnNU/w-d-xo.html
good video mate! i just brought the same engine and just had it in for a full carby overhaul, when i got it back its pissing fuel out the top over flow if i primed the bulb hard enough , any idea what this could be?
Not good if your referring to the breather hole next to the air fuel mixture screw? If it is then they didn't rebuild it right. Either the float needle isn't seating in the seat or the float is out of adjustment? Is it just one of the carbs doing this or all three?
@@TimsWorkshopTJY Yes correct next to the fuel mixture screw, pee’s out the top carby hole and fills up the cowling with fuel. he took 6 hours to do it first time with a full service and all 3 carbys overhauled with new gaskets etc and once i’ve dropped it back to him he has had it for 5 days and isn’t returning calls or text so starting to do abit of research for myself incase he trys to pull a funny one. cheers for the reply mate much appreciated.
Before taking the carb back to whoever rebuilt it make sure your primer shuts off and doesn't keep running. I believe that may cause the issue if that's what's going on?
Bom dia, após apertar totalmente o parafuso de mistura de ar quantas voltas exata é preciso dar para ficar perfeito, uns falam uma volta e meia, outros falam 3 voltas.qual quantidade certa?
Good morning, after fully tightening the air mixture screw, how many exact turns do you need to make it perfect, some say a turn and a half, others say 3 turns. (Your text in English) To answer your question per the Mercury service manual for my 60hp two stroke mercury built in 1996 each of the 3 carbs idle mixtures screws are turned out from seat 1 1/2 +/- 1/4 turn. To fine tune each you need to use a tachometer. Your idle speed in neutral warmed up should stay the same. If the idle speed is out of spec for idle in neutral then adjust each carb within the +/- 1/4 turn to get the idle back in tolerance. Being a two stroke this is the only way to adjust these carb other than link sync. 4 stroke motors you can adjust the carbs with a vacuum guage so they are all balanced
Quick question I have the same motor just mariner ..I'm having trouble getting full throttle ..when I adjusted the control bar to get the butterfly's to open fully ..the idle was too high ...is there a way to increase the full throttle range without messing up the idle speed?
You need to do this in sequence or it will get messed up. First if the spark plugs are good and compression then do the link and sync, then timing to make sure they are correct then idle RPM. I have videos on this but to set this first disconnect the throttle connection, make sure the idle screw on the bottom of lower control arm is up against the stop. Start motor in water barrel or tied to dock to set idle timing. That screw is the one in the middle of control arms and is used to set the timing ATDC. 2-6 degrees which I set at 4. When setting you RPM idle you adjust the same screw with motor in water not muffs and in forward gear set the RPM from your high idle back down to 700 RPM. Moving the timing screw will still be in range and your motor will run better. These motors are setup to be set like this because there is no adjustments on the carbs other that the one next to the vent hole that per book is only adjusted 1 1/4 turns out. Now your motor may have different procedures and settings so buy yourself the correct service manual from the company for your year and model. Let me know if this helped you. Tim
Hi Ron, I made a new video which shows towards the end how to adjust the throttle cable. The same method for the shift cable below by running in or out the turnbarrel. You will see when you watch the video
Thanks, youtube has some non copyright stuff that I run every video. One reason is my mic picks up my breathing so helps block it out. Your the first comment I've had on the background music. The artist do get credit and royalty for each time it's played so in a way I'm supporting them👍
Hey i have the same motor.. runs great out of water maybe alittle mis, new coils, cdi , bought a used stator an trigger, will rev out of off water on muffs but it's so boggy in the water to wot...
You've done what allot of folks do on these but need to dive into the testing which actually will save money in the long run. First off you need a service manual for your year and model. There is a good step by step troubleshooting section with pictures. When you watch my videos the testing comes straight from the book.
Any help would be great. I got it to idle perfect... I'm just about at a loss with it... I check spark at idle an wot has great spark. Been through the carbs
I had the same issue when I first got this boat. I got the manual but the first thing I did was change all the fuel lines and bought a new squeeze ball line. Also the filter. I rebuilt the fuel pump too. Then I started going through the mechanical when I got my service manual. Compression, link sync, and timing. Then the wife said take it the the local marine shop for a tune up. When they got done they said the only thing they found was a fouled spark plug and the carbs needed adjusting. So I did a run video and it ran great on the water and didn't bog down anymore. So that told me everything I did was right on up to that point. I didn't adjust the carb air/fuel mixture screws from setting them per the book 1 1/4 turn out from seat. For them to dial them in they had it in a dyno tank which has the performance display to set each carb. I never messed with them again since the blogging was never a issue again. I believe you can do this in a barrel in forward gear at @idle with the RPM gauge. The range on the air/fuel mixture screw shouldn't go beyond 1 1/4 to 1 3/4 definitely no more than 2 and no less than 1 1/4. Below is too lean and not good for keeping the cylinders lubed. Too rich past 2 turns will foul the plugs. What your looking for on the RPM is 650 to 750 in forward gear when adjusting the screws and stay within that RPM and listen for changes like running smooth and idle picking up which is good meaning it's getting the correct air/fuel mixture. Then go to the next carb. 4 stokes are allot easier to set because you can use vacuum gauges on each carb to dial them in. 2 strokes are whatever makes it run better with the high tech equipment. Marine shops don't like working on these anymore for that reason
@TimsWorkshopTJY thank you for your reply, much appreciated i subscribed, I will change all the fuel lines an rebuild the fuel pump an go from there thanks again
Thanks Archie, taking her out to the lake for a test run this morning and will post a 2022 video. I do one each year to see what's not working to fix it before the fishing trips out. Glad you enjoyed the video. I had the carbs off this winter to resolve a leak and cleaned them. I also had to redo the link sync but the timing idle adjustment was the main reason for doing this video. When I did it last year I put out wrong info. This one is the correct way to set it
Hi Vance, not sure about your motor but the basics are the same on most older 2 stroke mercs. I bought my motor year and hp Mercurymarine.com service manual and go by it's proceedures. I suggest you get one either the book or the pdf file online. Most of my old vintage motors that is what I have and just pull up the pages on my phone or print off if needed. On the rpm setting this is not a good video. Check out my later one reinstalling carbs and link/sync. I go over the correct way to set the idle timing and rpm.
Hey I got that same motor but it’s missing that link that goes between the idle screw to the actual accelerator and don’t know what it’s called please help
send me a picture of where it is missing. just point to it with your finger in the picture. I have my book so I can shoot you back they call it and if there is a part number I can find?
Hey Tim, your videos have been extremely helpful thus far. I have a 50hp motor. Same as yours, just lacking the extra pony. I looked but could not find a video on how to adjust the carbs properly. Any way you could help me out? Thanks!!
The carbs have one low speed adjustment that per book are set @ 1 1/4 turns out. The rest of it is nonadjustable except the float. If you suspect one of the floats are off there is an adjustment in my book, I can send you to check them. If there is a run issue about the only other thing is cleaning them especially the top tiny holes with a thin wire and shoot carb clean through all the carb holes and jets. There is a high-speed jet on the bottom carb bowl under the drain plug. make sure it's clean too. Oh, and while you have the carbs off put new gaskets behind each carb to the motor. too much air mix leans out the motor too much and you'll get the lean sneeze. buy new carb kits when you do. there is not much to these carbs. most adjustments are the link/sync set up and timing which i have videos on. hope all this helps. Tim
@@TimsWorkshopTJY I learned a lot watching your videos. The link/sink especially! I kept messing around with them while waiting a reply and I got it better than it’s ever been. The link/sink was WAY out! She runs great now. Thank you so much for the reply tim
That's great to hear. I just came in the house from doing the coil test video on the merc 60. It will be coming in two weeks. Just the first test in a series for electrical test. Next Friday will be the old Mercury Mark 10 part 1 reassembly video. The paint restore looks awesome
awesome video as always. had to wait till the end of the day so i could watch it(not just listening). would you have been able to do a voice over of the actual adjustments for the idle and the full throttle(i believe). wasn't sure if you had thought about it since the audio went for that part
I was confused when you said the audio went out. I realized you meant when I just went over how i adjusted it after the fact due to my mic battery went out on that clip. The reason I did it this way was because as I pointed out on the video, I already did a link and sync video last year showing the whole process in detail. What I really wanted to explain was setting the RPM and throttle linkage again since last year I showed the wrong adjustment info. This one is correct. The views on this video as I thought would jump since there are allot of Mercury outboard folks out there looking for help. I'm currently painting the old Mercury Mark 10 outboard. Really excited on how it's coming along. Wow, what a difference.
photos.app.goo.gl/waSbeugVnDdqXqYi7 Wow Jim, this is amazing 1,700 views in the last 48hrs. 2 months ago I was averaging 900 to 1000. The outboard videos definitely are my big hitter so going to put my focus on that. I'm also getting allot of questions on helping folks which I love👍
I just bought a Carolina skiff with a 60 h.p. mercury on it ,the haul is rated up to a 110 h.p. my brother has the same boat with a 90 evenrud on it and that boat will sure enough get up and haul ass but this little 60 shocked both of us I believe the timing isn't right and I know the carbs are not in sink and the bottom one it flooding so I believe when I finally get it right it might be al the motor this boat needs although I do have a 115 hp johnson I can put on it if I need to if the boat can float with the old 1975 johnson on it lol I haven't been watching your videos long but I subscribed the first one I watch your surely helping me a lot what should the compression be on each cylinder I checked mine and the top is only 75 the other 2 are both 105 I might have to rebuild it I don't know I haven't owned many outboards mainly ran sir boats in Florida iv lived in Georgia now for right at 30 years and run the satilla River and okmulgee River mostly get this motor right starting a low water boat out of a airboat haul and a 1200 cc yamaha jetshi motor that's going to be fun to try to get right lol
Hi Calvin, that is pretty low for a 60 hp merc. what year is it. The rule on these if they are all within 10psi of each other there is still life unless it's 70 or below and at 70 it would be a dog out on the water. Mine is a 1996 and the compression is around 115 to 120 if I remember correctly? well within the 10psi for multipul cylinders. being you don't have history with this motor try removing the plugs and shoot a little lubricant in each cylinder and crank it over to let the cylinders smooth out. Then retest and see if that improved the readings. oil will bring up the pressure but the key is if they are closer together within the 10psi.
@@TimsWorkshopTJY I have replaced the slide and other mechanisms but cable needs adjusting. My cable barrel fitting fasten different than yours and I can’t see how to unlock them to adjust. I can see pics later Thanks
I was able to translate it. I will look up the number of the part. I think you can buy aftermarket tilt trim units online allot cheaper than OMC mercury. I'll look up one of those for you as well
Thanks, I just wish my mic had not gone dead so I could have showed making the adjustments rather telling how I did it. That's why if folks want to work on their motors it's a must to have the service manual.
i have mercruiser 75hp outboard and i think timming is not right but it works now. i will test it on the water this Saturday. i love learning so learned a lot on this outboard. before i had inboard and find outboard better cheaper to service. do you have manual for mercruiser 75 hp outboard two stroke i believe this one exactly the same ??? thanks
First you need the mercury service manual for your year and hp of motor you have. If you plan on doing the work and not taking it to a shop you will need to buy the book and some testing tools like a multimeter. If the test come out good then you need to check fuel flow. Clogged fuel filter, hoses that need to be replaced which includes the pump ball and hose. If you use an ethanol fuel mixture it's horrible for the inside of fuel hoses and clogges them up. I start there. You should have from the fuel pump to carbs 3.5psi fuel pressure and no air bubbles in the lines. Putting clear hoses on just for testing only you can see the air bubbles. Air is a sign of a bad pump ball of fuel pump diaphragm.
This fella is a dying breed.. Knows his stuff and cares enough to educate those of us willing to learn.
I know a few marine mechanics. I understand "time is money" and that teaching everyone how to do it themselves is bad for business, but in my experience you can't even ask a simple question without doling out a few hundred dollars..
Thank you so much for sharing your valuable knowledge and experience. 💪
Thanks for the kind words. Before I retired from Boeing I was the 747 team lead for installing landing gear and aft flaps. I not only helped our crew learn how to build the airplane but was the main contact for engineers looking for the technical support. After I retired I wanted to share my mechanical knowledge for the goal of saving folks time and money. In my opinion knowing your boat and motor is a safety must when out on the water. Also these 2 stroke motors allot of marine mechanics won't even work on anymore. All they like to work on is 4 stroke efi motors.
Thanks for your clear explanation.
It helped me a lot.
The younger generation at the dealership don't know how to work on a 2 stroke.
Adjusting the timing wasn't a big deal.
But I was fighting the link and sync but now I know how it should be.
Regards from the Netherlands
Thanks Jimmy, my first outboard motor was a 2 stroke 5hp Johnson Seahorse. If you watch my video Playlist you will see I bought one to restore. Not a flip it's to keep till I pass on. Everytime I look at it memories of when I was a kid out on the lake come back. It was a blast to test it out on the lake. Ran great 👍
Wow I love the teach-in Lesson from this gentleman. love it.
Thanks for the kind comment and for watching
Hi Tim,
very well explained, really helped me.
Thank you so much.
Hartmut
at least this video had the correct information. my prior one didn't so I put in the comments to watch this updated one. thanks for watching and glad it helped you with your motor
Not sure if I missed it, but what model or part number gauge are you using to monitor the rpm from the rear?
Second question. My motor was rebuilt before I got it and seems to run fine most of the time, however it can be a pain in the rear most times when starting it up after being on the lake and wanting to move around. Tend to have to put the motor in neutral and start it, then hurry and slip it back in gear and throttle up before it tries to die on me. It sounds like an idle issue to me, any thoughts? Thank you and great videos, very helpful!
I bought the RPM hour gauge online for cheap and works good following the directions. I'll go out to my shop later to get the brand name. As far as your issue it sounds like a fuel delivery problem but you need to go through the whole motor and test it. First with checking compression, then spark on all cylinders, then link and sync and timing in that order. If that is all good make sure you have a new fuel filter and check you fuel pressure coming from your fuel pump. Should be 3.5psi. If not need to rebuild it.
@@TimsWorkshopTJY thank you for the feedback. I have gone through and checked compression on the motor and that is good like I said, they rebuilt the entire motor, pistons rings, etc. all the pumps so forth. Compression is good, spark is good on all three cylinders, I put a new fuel line all the way from the tank to the outboard because the previous line had seen better days. I’ve made sure that there’s not a kink or anything like that and the fuel flows up through the ball and gets hard when pumped and feeds the motor. I will have to check that pressure when running I’ll have to hook gauge onto it so I can try to see probably vacuum diaphragm style pump I imagine? I know there’s time whenever I go to drive it full throttle on the lake I get around 18 mph which for a 25 foot pontoon boat. I imagine it’s pretty decent with a 60 hp Bigfoot on the back, but it just feels like sometimes it’s lacking power so definitely fuel can be something I need to look at for sure just to make sure filters is not clogged up etc. I’m willing to bed though that the idle is definitely off. I can start it at the house with the water hose hooked up to it and it fires up almost instantly and sounds like a race engine, and you can rev it up in gear rev it up in neutral, I never do it in gear. I’m just saying it will do it, but when you put it on the water it’s hit or miss. It has a mind of its own sometimes. It makes it hard for me to go get the boat and back the trailer in and have somebody else in the boat, because if they don’t know how to control it just right out there trying to start the boat and don’t know what to do.
Ok, so first of all when on muff don't Rev it up any higher than 2500. Only in the lake or test tank. That's why folks put a test only prop on so they can test WOT tied up to a dock or in a test tank. 18 mpr with a pontoon boat is good. With my 17ft at 25mpr is hitting around 5000 rpm and 5500 is max for a 60hp especially big foot. Low end torque motors.
Oh, the name of the RPM/hour meter is called runleader I bought from amazon
Awesome! Thank you for such a fast response to my email today .
No problem
i have the same runleader Tach. but the setting it says to use in the manual deosnt seem to be showing the correct RPMs. what setting is yours set to here?
I went with the 3 cylinder and 6 if I remember. It tells you in the directions. When set right it will tell you the correct rpm reading. It has an hour and rpm. Took me a bit to figure out how to set it. Hour reading is kinda useless unless you have a new motor. Great for being back by the motor for testing
Hey Tim, I have a 99 60 hp almost exactly like yours. It takes a few times to crank or is cold natured. Once it warms up. It runs out strong and cranks right up. Usually happens after it sits up for 3-4 weeks. Is this normal or do I need to look at something?
Hi Ed, yes this is normal for older Mercs. Fuel related so what I do to get it to spark off right away is pump the ball firm with the arrow on the ball pointing up. Then push the key in for 3 seconds to enrich the carbs before starting. Mine will fire right off but if it starts to die push the key in just once and that will keep the motor running and should be good to go if not do it again till it runs on its own. There is another issue to be aware of too. Replace the pump ball fuel lines from the gray ones with black ones and stainless clamps. The ball is fine if it's not too old. Put a new fuel filter on at the beginning of each new boating season. Buy the marine black fuel lines not just regular auto parts fuel lines. CG appoved. A1 or B1. I use stainless clamps on those too and on the boat inside compartments from fuel tank double clamps are required per CG. This is for fire safety so it's very important. The gray pump ball fuel lines are junk and collapse restrictions fuel flow causing your motor to cut out from lack of fuel. 3.5psi pressure with no air bubbles. Thanks for watching Tim
Hi Tim
Thanks for your videos. I have a 1995 60 Mariner elpto How do I connect an RPM guage to the motor internally? Can you help? I bought a new wire harness and I dont see where the tan wire connects?
I'll send you the wiring diagram. I have yet to do a video on this except to wire up a digital portable tach to the #1 spark plug cable and using long leads from the console back to motor to run my console tach. Check back later to see the link for the 60hp wiring diagram. It may be different from the Mariner though compared to my 1996 Mercury?
photos.app.goo.gl/aUuihFxuu3YfEB6k9
Thank You I get scared to cut and splice wires under the cowel
Yes, if you have not worked with wiring your better off asking for help.
Mine is a 2009 50 ho Merc 2 stroke and today I got a new lower unit because my was completely shot. Went to test run it and it started revving up really fast and went into forward gear ..then the motor wouldn’t shut off. Had to let all the fuel run out of the carbs. Any clue what may cause this ?
Hi Steve, Wow that is a weird one. I'll have to look into it. My motor is a 1996 and is a CDI. Is yours a EFI? It could be several things that would cause it? I let you know if I come up with a starting point on it.
Buddy of mine told me my carburetor linkage maybe be stuck I just had all my carbs rebuilt a few weeks ago.. it’s either that or the idle screw maybe need to be adjusted. Or a combo of both
When you move the carb linkage by hand does it hang up?
@@TimsWorkshopTJY No , I just had all 3 carbs rebuilt and my mechanic cleaned the linkage too. All 3 carbs cleaned and assembled for $120. He made them spotless I’m gonna mess with the motor tomorrow. Happy Easter Tim
I will the best I can sitting inside with Covid. Taking Paxlovid so it doesn't get worse. Just about everyone in our neighborhood has it and we are fully vaccinated and boosted. Made it all this way and just now got it so be safe it's still out there.
Anyway on your motor did the guy do the follow procedures after the carb went back on? Have you watched what I did after reinstalling my carb? Check it out. Happy Easter Steve on?th-cam.com/video/CeU5CzgFnNU/w-d-xo.html
good video mate! i just brought the same engine and just had it in for a full carby overhaul, when i got it back its pissing fuel out the top over flow if i primed the bulb hard enough , any idea what this could be?
Not good if your referring to the breather hole next to the air fuel mixture screw? If it is then they didn't rebuild it right. Either the float needle isn't seating in the seat or the float is out of adjustment? Is it just one of the carbs doing this or all three?
@@TimsWorkshopTJY Yes correct next to the fuel mixture screw, pee’s out the top carby hole and fills up the cowling with fuel.
he took 6 hours to do it first time with a full service and all 3 carbys overhauled with new gaskets etc and once i’ve dropped it back to him he has had it for 5 days and isn’t returning calls or text so starting to do abit of research for myself incase he trys to pull a funny one. cheers for the reply mate much appreciated.
Before taking the carb back to whoever rebuilt it make sure your primer shuts off and doesn't keep running. I believe that may cause the issue if that's what's going on?
Bom dia, após apertar totalmente o parafuso de mistura de ar quantas voltas exata é preciso dar para ficar perfeito, uns falam uma volta e meia, outros falam 3 voltas.qual quantidade certa?
Thanks for your comment Adriano, I'll copy and paste to translate to English to respond today.
Good morning, after fully tightening the air mixture screw, how many exact turns do you need to make it perfect, some say a turn and a half, others say 3 turns. (Your text in English)
To answer your question per the Mercury service manual for my 60hp two stroke mercury built in 1996 each of the 3 carbs idle mixtures screws are turned out from seat 1 1/2 +/- 1/4 turn. To fine tune each you need to use a tachometer. Your idle speed in neutral warmed up should stay the same. If the idle speed is out of spec for idle in neutral then adjust each carb within the +/- 1/4 turn to get the idle back in tolerance. Being a two stroke this is the only way to adjust these carb other than link sync. 4 stroke motors you can adjust the carbs with a vacuum guage so they are all balanced
Quick question I have the same motor just mariner ..I'm having trouble getting full throttle ..when I adjusted the control bar to get the butterfly's to open fully ..the idle was too high ...is there a way to increase the full throttle range without messing up the idle speed?
You need to do this in sequence or it will get messed up. First if the spark plugs are good and compression then do the link and sync, then timing to make sure they are correct then idle RPM. I have videos on this but to set this first disconnect the throttle connection, make sure the idle screw on the bottom of lower control arm is up against the stop. Start motor in water barrel or tied to dock to set idle timing. That screw is the one in the middle of control arms and is used to set the timing ATDC. 2-6 degrees which I set at 4. When setting you RPM idle you adjust the same screw with motor in water not muffs and in forward gear set the RPM from your high idle back down to 700 RPM. Moving the timing screw will still be in range and your motor will run better. These motors are setup to be set like this because there is no adjustments on the carbs other that the one next to the vent hole that per book is only adjusted 1 1/4 turns out. Now your motor may have different procedures and settings so buy yourself the correct service manual from the company for your year and model. Let me know if this helped you. Tim
@@TimsWorkshopTJY thanks this helps a bunch ..I will try a some things out
Do you have a video to adjust throttle & shifter cables on a Mercury 60 hp 2 cycle outboard??
Thanks
The control up by the counsel or on the motor?
At the motor
Same motor as you done the sync & link with
Hi Ron, I made a new video which shows towards the end how to adjust the throttle cable. The same method for the shift cable below by running in or out the turnbarrel. You will see when you watch the video
Like your music brother
Thanks, youtube has some non copyright stuff that I run every video. One reason is my mic picks up my breathing so helps block it out. Your the first comment I've had on the background music. The artist do get credit and royalty for each time it's played so in a way I'm supporting them👍
Hey i have the same motor.. runs great out of water maybe alittle mis, new coils, cdi , bought a used stator an trigger, will rev out of off water on muffs but it's so boggy in the water to wot...
You've done what allot of folks do on these but need to dive into the testing which actually will save money in the long run. First off you need a service manual for your year and model. There is a good step by step troubleshooting section with pictures. When you watch my videos the testing comes straight from the book.
Any help would be great. I got it to idle perfect... I'm just about at a loss with it... I check spark at idle an wot has great spark. Been through the carbs
I had the same issue when I first got this boat. I got the manual but the first thing I did was change all the fuel lines and bought a new squeeze ball line. Also the filter. I rebuilt the fuel pump too. Then I started going through the mechanical when I got my service manual. Compression, link sync, and timing. Then the wife said take it the the local marine shop for a tune up. When they got done they said the only thing they found was a fouled spark plug and the carbs needed adjusting. So I did a run video and it ran great on the water and didn't bog down anymore. So that told me everything I did was right on up to that point. I didn't adjust the carb air/fuel mixture screws from setting them per the book 1 1/4 turn out from seat. For them to dial them in they had it in a dyno tank which has the performance display to set each carb. I never messed with them again since the blogging was never a issue again. I believe you can do this in a barrel in forward gear at @idle with the RPM gauge. The range on the air/fuel mixture screw shouldn't go beyond 1 1/4 to 1 3/4 definitely no more than 2 and no less than 1 1/4. Below is too lean and not good for keeping the cylinders lubed. Too rich past 2 turns will foul the plugs. What your looking for on the RPM is 650 to 750 in forward gear when adjusting the screws and stay within that RPM and listen for changes like running smooth and idle picking up which is good meaning it's getting the correct air/fuel mixture. Then go to the next carb. 4 stokes are allot easier to set because you can use vacuum gauges on each carb to dial them in. 2 strokes are whatever makes it run better with the high tech equipment. Marine shops don't like working on these anymore for that reason
@TimsWorkshopTJY thank you for your reply, much appreciated i subscribed, I will change all the fuel lines an rebuild the fuel pump an go from there thanks again
let me know how it's going. I went through the same thing and it came out running great. hope the same goes for you.
thanks for the video, I have this engine, very helpful
Thanks Archie, taking her out to the lake for a test run this morning and will post a 2022 video. I do one each year to see what's not working to fix it before the fishing trips out. Glad you enjoyed the video. I had the carbs off this winter to resolve a leak and cleaned them. I also had to redo the link sync but the timing idle adjustment was the main reason for doing this video. When I did it last year I put out wrong info. This one is the correct way to set it
Are these procedures the same for a 35hp mercury 2 stroke 1984-85 model? Enjoyed the video.
Hi Vance, not sure about your motor but the basics are the same on most older 2 stroke mercs. I bought my motor year and hp Mercurymarine.com service manual and go by it's proceedures. I suggest you get one either the book or the pdf file online. Most of my old vintage motors that is what I have and just pull up the pages on my phone or print off if needed. On the rpm setting this is not a good video. Check out my later one reinstalling carbs and link/sync. I go over the correct way to set the idle timing and rpm.
Thanks for the reply.
Hey I got that same motor but it’s missing that link that goes between the idle screw to the actual accelerator and don’t know what it’s called please help
send me a picture of where it is missing. just point to it with your finger in the picture. I have my book so I can shoot you back they call it and if there is a part number I can find?
Hey Tim, your videos have been extremely helpful thus far. I have a 50hp motor. Same as yours, just lacking the extra pony. I looked but could not find a video on how to adjust the carbs properly. Any way you could help me out? Thanks!!
The carbs have one low speed adjustment that per book are set @ 1 1/4 turns out. The rest of it is nonadjustable except the float. If you suspect one of the floats are off there is an adjustment in my book, I can send you to check them. If there is a run issue about the only other thing is cleaning them especially the top tiny holes with a thin wire and shoot carb clean through all the carb holes and jets. There is a high-speed jet on the bottom carb bowl under the drain plug. make sure it's clean too. Oh, and while you have the carbs off put new gaskets behind each carb to the motor. too much air mix leans out the motor too much and you'll get the lean sneeze. buy new carb kits when you do. there is not much to these carbs. most adjustments are the link/sync set up and timing which i have videos on. hope all this helps. Tim
@@TimsWorkshopTJY I learned a lot watching your videos. The link/sink especially! I kept messing around with them while waiting a reply and I got it better than it’s ever been. The link/sink was WAY out! She runs great now. Thank you so much for the reply tim
That's great to hear. I just came in the house from doing the coil test video on the merc 60. It will be coming in two weeks. Just the first test in a series for electrical test. Next Friday will be the old Mercury Mark 10 part 1 reassembly video. The paint restore looks awesome
Oh, and thanks Chris for the positive comments. Thanks for watching and please share with family and friends. Tim
awesome video as always. had to wait till the end of the day so i could watch it(not just listening). would you have been able to do a voice over of the actual adjustments for the idle and the full throttle(i believe). wasn't sure if you had thought about it since the audio went for that part
I was confused when you said the audio went out. I realized you meant when I just went over how i adjusted it after the fact due to my mic battery went out on that clip. The reason I did it this way was because as I pointed out on the video, I already did a link and sync video last year showing the whole process in detail. What I really wanted to explain was setting the RPM and throttle linkage again since last year I showed the wrong adjustment info. This one is correct. The views on this video as I thought would jump since there are allot of Mercury outboard folks out there looking for help. I'm currently painting the old Mercury Mark 10 outboard. Really excited on how it's coming along. Wow, what a difference.
photos.app.goo.gl/waSbeugVnDdqXqYi7
Wow Jim, this is amazing 1,700 views in the last 48hrs. 2 months ago I was averaging 900 to 1000. The outboard videos definitely are my big hitter so going to put my focus on that. I'm also getting allot of questions on helping folks which I love👍
I just bought a Carolina skiff with a 60 h.p. mercury on it ,the haul is rated up to a 110 h.p. my brother has the same boat with a 90 evenrud on it and that boat will sure enough get up and haul ass but this little 60 shocked both of us I believe the timing isn't right and I know the carbs are not in sink and the bottom one it flooding so I believe when I finally get it right it might be al the motor this boat needs although I do have a 115 hp johnson I can put on it if I need to if the boat can float with the old 1975 johnson on it lol I haven't been watching your videos long but I subscribed the first one I watch your surely helping me a lot what should the compression be on each cylinder I checked mine and the top is only 75 the other 2 are both 105 I might have to rebuild it I don't know I haven't owned many outboards mainly ran sir boats in Florida iv lived in Georgia now for right at 30 years and run the satilla River and okmulgee River mostly get this motor right starting a low water boat out of a airboat haul and a 1200 cc yamaha jetshi motor that's going to be fun to try to get right lol
Hi Calvin, that is pretty low for a 60 hp merc. what year is it. The rule on these if they are all within 10psi of each other there is still life unless it's 70 or below and at 70 it would be a dog out on the water. Mine is a 1996 and the compression is around 115 to 120 if I remember correctly? well within the 10psi for multipul cylinders. being you don't have history with this motor try removing the plugs and shoot a little lubricant in each cylinder and crank it over to let the cylinders smooth out. Then retest and see if that improved the readings. oil will bring up the pressure but the key is if they are closer together within the 10psi.
I am having a issue that the shifter cable does want to go completely in neutral and want allow the motor to start
First try disconnecting the lower shift cable on the bottom and by hand try moving the shift slide back and forth to see if that part is working
@@TimsWorkshopTJY
I have replaced the slide and other mechanisms but cable needs adjusting. My cable barrel fitting fasten different than yours and I can’t see how to unlock them to adjust. I can see pics later
Thanks
Yes, please send picture, year of motor ect.. that will help. Mine is a mercury 1996 60hp 3 cylinder 2 stroke motor
@@TimsWorkshopTJY
What is the best way to send pic?
Do you have an iPhone?
Привет тим подскажи пожалуйста номер крышки цилиндра ручного подъёма Меркурий M60EO
Please translate to English thanks
Hi Tim, please tell me the number of the manual lifting cylinder cover or the Mercury m60eo repair kit
The cylinder leaked, where is the rod
I was able to translate it. I will look up the number of the part. I think you can buy aftermarket tilt trim units online allot cheaper than OMC mercury. I'll look up one of those for you as well
Ок
thanks
great video
Thanks, I just wish my mic had not gone dead so I could have showed making the adjustments rather telling how I did it. That's why if folks want to work on their motors it's a must to have the service manual.
i have mercruiser 75hp outboard and i think timming is not right but it works now. i will test it on the water this Saturday. i love learning so learned a lot on this outboard. before i had inboard and find outboard better cheaper to service. do you have manual for mercruiser 75 hp outboard two stroke i believe this one exactly the same ???
thanks
Hi Aleksandar, no I don't have a manual for that motor. You can order one from Mercury Marine. That's how I got mine for my 60hp outboard.
I have like that engine but i dont kwon how to make fast.someone hlp?
First you need the mercury service manual for your year and hp of motor you have. If you plan on doing the work and not taking it to a shop you will need to buy the book and some testing tools like a multimeter. If the test come out good then you need to check fuel flow. Clogged fuel filter, hoses that need to be replaced which includes the pump ball and hose. If you use an ethanol fuel mixture it's horrible for the inside of fuel hoses and clogges them up. I start there. You should have from the fuel pump to carbs 3.5psi fuel pressure and no air bubbles in the lines. Putting clear hoses on just for testing only you can see the air bubbles. Air is a sign of a bad pump ball of fuel pump diaphragm.
ρɾσɱσʂɱ 🎊
Thanks for watching👍