another great video - love the music in this one too. Never really thought about a one arm guy driving down the road drinking a soda and eating chips ...... you've got SKILLS man!!!!
I wish to compliment you regarding your thoroughness in cleaning parts before rebuilding the equipment. Please allow me to ask about the process of cleaning, starting from the “greasy, grimy” condition when parts are first removed from a vehicle, or perhaps still in the vehicle. It seems to me that initial cleaning with a high-pressure washer can remove most of the “crud”, especially if engine degreaser spray is used before the high-pressure water spray. You commented (around 1:30) about the high cost of brake cleaner spray, and I wonder what you might think of the following comments. I understand the brake cleaner spray may be highly flammable, and therefore it is necessary to take care that suitable precautions are always taken to remain safe from fire danger. Perhaps the reason why brake cleaner is popular is that it can get parts “100% clean”. Having said that, I believe that it would be possible to get parts at least “99% clean” by using gasoline as the cleaning fluid. This would mean that just a small amount of brake cleaner could be used for the “final rinse” that would get parts perfectly clean.
I've cleaned transmission cases (and the like) with a pressure washer before. But, only after the trans has been disassembled, and had all of the oil washed off of it (on the bench with brake cleaner). Have considered pressure washing the trans before it hits the bench...in an attempt to keep dirt off of the bench. My main concern with pressure washing a trans prior to disassembly, is getting water inside the unit. Trying to keep water off of the bench (corrosion), and out of the waste oil (waste oil burning heater). You're the 2nd person, on here, to mention gasoline. I have no experience using it...but, imagine your proposed method could do the trick. You're right...brake cleaner is highly flammable. That's another story for another time. Thanks for watching, and dropping me a line.
@@SouthpawAutoworks Thank you for your detailed reply. I am now a member of the “very senior” generation, and not likely to be doing much mechanical work in the future. I have been a “self-taught” mechanic, who has done enough work on greasy and grimy equipment to know that repair work is so much easier and more pleasant when the equipment is clean. Not only that, but it is so important to make sure that everything is clean before it is assembled together again. I do not know when brake cleaner aerosol cans were first introduced, but I certainly found degreaser aerosol cans to be very helpful for doing initial cleanup and removal of grimy, dirty deposits. I think that one of the greatest objections that people may have to using gasoline for parts cleaning is because of the perceived fire danger. But, as you have agreed, brake cleaner is also highly flammable. If this is the primary concern, then another helpful method is to use either power kerosene or mineral turps as the solvent to clean oily and greasy parts. These solvents are very helpful for initial cleanup, but not as effective as gasoline. And yes, I agree that brake cleaner can do an amazing job immediately prior to reassembly.
There are a number of different VBs, and they must be replaced with another one of a similar generation. 1st Gen: 93-94 2nd Gen: 95 3rd Gen: 96-00 Etc. There's a 2-digit code stamped on the VB, that represents the year. In addition to the year, there are also a number of things to look for on the VB....things that change from one generation to another (a number of different casting changes). I wouldn't rely on the year, and the year alone. I would also be looking for the tell-tale signs that indicate the correct generation...just as a way to confirm the correct selection. I will have to make a video on this topic, when time permits.
I've done "patch" jobs before (where I opened up the unit in order to fix only the bare minimum, and do nothing else....as opposed to doing a full rebuild). In those instances, I've put in a new shell, and did not replace the converter. And down the road the vehicle went. However, it's really up to you. When contaminants (such as metal) make their way through the trans, they will typically wind up in the converter. The converter has thrust washers, bearings, and a large clutch. Contamination can lead to premature failure of the torque converter internals. If it were me (and do what I do at your own risk).... If I was going to be replacing the converter, I'd be doing some extra cleaning, while the trans was apart...to avoid contaminating the new converter. 1). Rinsing all of the internals with brake cleaner (to wash metal shavings/grit off). 2). Rinsing the trans case, pan, etc. 3). Flushing the cooler lines/cooler. 4). Etc. If I was not gonna go to the trouble of cleaning everything (and it's time-consuming), I personally wouldn't spend the money on a new converter. It'll just wind up contaminated... Just my two cents. As previously mentioned, do what I do at your won risk. You can do whatever you want. Depends on your budget, and your risk tolerance. Wishing you all the best with your 4L60E.
Thanks for the detailed reply. I’ve noticed that the pump directly connects to the pan filter where it sucks fluid. How could fragments wind up in the pump feeding the torque converter? Wouldn’t many fragments find its way down to the pan and ultimately get filtered?
No, not at this point in time. However, I would love to produce a build series on that trans. It's a fun one... And I do have a 350 core parked on a bench, patiently waiting. Producing a build series is a 200+ hour venture. We're currently busy with the GM 4L60E, and likely will be busy with this trans for a while. However, it's just a matter of time, before we tear into the TH350. Best way to stay in the loop, and get notified of the future TH350 videos, is to subscribe AND hit the notification bell. Thanks for dropping me a line.
Thank you Robert, you are the best
another great video - love the music in this one too. Never really thought about a one arm guy driving down the road drinking a soda and eating chips ...... you've got SKILLS man!!!!
LOL
Appreciate you stopping by, Mike.
Great! I am working in 4l60e GM Blazer.
Right on!
I am literally about to clean my 4l60e as we speak. The timing is impeccable.
Right on. Impeccable timing indeed!
Happy cleaning/building.
I appreciate you making these videos...
Appreciate you watching and commenting.
Thank you.
Good job! ..... like watching your videos on these transmissions ..... I have a couple to do myself...
Thank you.
The positive feedback is appreciated.
It can be nice to do a couple in a row. A guy can really get into a rhythm that way.
Happy building.
Outstanding as always thank you for the content back ground music is killer
Right on! Thanks, man.
Glad to hear that about the music.
Thank you so much for being here.
Really appreciate you dropping me a line.
I wish to compliment you regarding your thoroughness in cleaning parts before rebuilding the equipment. Please allow me to ask about the process of cleaning, starting from the “greasy, grimy” condition when parts are first removed from a vehicle, or perhaps still in the vehicle. It seems to me that initial cleaning with a high-pressure washer can remove most of the “crud”, especially if engine degreaser spray is used before the high-pressure water spray.
You commented (around 1:30) about the high cost of brake cleaner spray, and I wonder what you might think of the following comments. I understand the brake cleaner spray may be highly flammable, and therefore it is necessary to take care that suitable precautions are always taken to remain safe from fire danger. Perhaps the reason why brake cleaner is popular is that it can get parts “100% clean”. Having said that, I believe that it would be possible to get parts at least “99% clean” by using gasoline as the cleaning fluid. This would mean that just a small amount of brake cleaner could be used for the “final rinse” that would get parts perfectly clean.
I've cleaned transmission cases (and the like) with a pressure washer before. But, only after the trans has been disassembled, and had all of the oil washed off of it (on the bench with brake cleaner).
Have considered pressure washing the trans before it hits the bench...in an attempt to keep dirt off of the bench.
My main concern with pressure washing a trans prior to disassembly, is getting water inside the unit. Trying to keep water off of the bench (corrosion), and out of the waste oil (waste oil burning heater).
You're the 2nd person, on here, to mention gasoline.
I have no experience using it...but, imagine your proposed method could do the trick.
You're right...brake cleaner is highly flammable. That's another story for another time.
Thanks for watching, and dropping me a line.
@@SouthpawAutoworks Thank you for your detailed reply. I am now a member of the “very senior” generation, and not likely to be doing much mechanical work in the future. I have been a “self-taught” mechanic, who has done enough work on greasy and grimy equipment to know that repair work is so much easier and more pleasant when the equipment is clean. Not only that, but it is so important to make sure that everything is clean before it is assembled together again. I do not know when brake cleaner aerosol cans were first introduced, but I certainly found degreaser aerosol cans to be very helpful for doing initial cleanup and removal of grimy, dirty deposits.
I think that one of the greatest objections that people may have to using gasoline for parts cleaning is because of the perceived fire danger. But, as you have agreed, brake cleaner is also highly flammable. If this is the primary concern, then another helpful method is to use either power kerosene or mineral turps as the solvent to clean oily and greasy parts. These solvents are very helpful for initial cleanup, but not as effective as gasoline. And yes, I agree that brake cleaner can do an amazing job immediately prior to reassembly.
Niiiice.
I hope you do the hydroalic videos like you did before and suggesting upgrades ;)
That is part of the game plan. Just a matter of time...
Good to see you on here again.
Thanks for dropping me a line.
❤❤❤❤
great vid hopefully helps with my 4l60e
Do you have a video on what to inspect and how to do so??
Don't have one posted, yet. But, it's part of the game plan for this year.
Can you use any of the 4l60e valve bodies I have 2 different ones 4209454 and 4216995
There are a number of different VBs, and they must be replaced with another one of a similar generation.
1st Gen: 93-94
2nd Gen: 95
3rd Gen: 96-00
Etc.
There's a 2-digit code stamped on the VB, that represents the year.
In addition to the year, there are also a number of things to look for on the VB....things that change from one generation to another (a number of different casting changes). I wouldn't rely on the year, and the year alone. I would also be looking for the tell-tale signs that indicate the correct generation...just as a way to confirm the correct selection.
I will have to make a video on this topic, when time permits.
I have a stripped sunshell and have replaced it and cleaned up my trans along with a new filter. Do I need to replace my torque converter?
I've done "patch" jobs before (where I opened up the unit in order to fix only the bare minimum, and do nothing else....as opposed to doing a full rebuild). In those instances, I've put in a new shell, and did not replace the converter. And down the road the vehicle went.
However, it's really up to you.
When contaminants (such as metal) make their way through the trans, they will typically wind up in the converter. The converter has thrust washers, bearings, and a large clutch. Contamination can lead to premature failure of the torque converter internals.
If it were me (and do what I do at your own risk)....
If I was going to be replacing the converter, I'd be doing some extra cleaning, while the trans was apart...to avoid contaminating the new converter.
1). Rinsing all of the internals with brake cleaner (to wash metal shavings/grit off).
2). Rinsing the trans case, pan, etc.
3). Flushing the cooler lines/cooler.
4). Etc.
If I was not gonna go to the trouble of cleaning everything (and it's time-consuming), I personally wouldn't spend the money on a new converter. It'll just wind up contaminated...
Just my two cents. As previously mentioned, do what I do at your won risk.
You can do whatever you want. Depends on your budget, and your risk tolerance.
Wishing you all the best with your 4L60E.
Thanks for the detailed reply. I’ve noticed that the pump directly connects to the pan filter where it sucks fluid. How could fragments wind up in the pump feeding the torque converter? Wouldn’t many fragments find its way down to the pan and ultimately get filtered?
Hey guys do you have a th350 tear down and build bud. Can’t find it
No, not at this point in time. However, I would love to produce a build series on that trans. It's a fun one... And I do have a 350 core parked on a bench, patiently waiting. Producing a build series is a 200+ hour venture.
We're currently busy with the GM 4L60E, and likely will be busy with this trans for a while. However, it's just a matter of time, before we tear into the TH350.
Best way to stay in the loop, and get notified of the future TH350 videos, is to subscribe AND hit the notification bell.
Thanks for dropping me a line.