Dometic RM2193 NOT COOLING ON 110V (Heating Element Replacement)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ค. 2024
- This video explains how to change the heating element for 110v power on your Dometic RM2193 3-Way fridge.
*Testing continuity to other electrical components should be completed as well to ensure proper function.*
The part listed in this repair can be found at this link:
www.amazon.com/dp/B00T371JGU/...
wiring diagram at end of video.
Don"t throw away your fridge because it isn't cooling. These systems are very simple to work on and repair.
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You made a very helpful video
Thank you thank you thank you! Wonderful to learn how to do this on my own. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Thank you!!!
Thanks!
Good video with simple explanations. I have an older popup with this model of fridge, would a bad heating element cause the GFCI outlet in the camper to trip whenever I try to power using AC power?
Thank you! That is a good possibility or perhaps the wires to the element are causing the outlet to trip. If you do an ohm test between the two white wires that will let you know if the element has shorted. From what I have read, if you get an ohm reading then it should be good still. If it is showing an open circut then it is no longer good.
Thx for this. Is it normal for the heating element enclosure to get hot when in use?
Yes the large pipe (flue) that I removed the shroud from will get very hot if your fridge is working properly. Normally if I dont feel heat from the top vent within 30-60 min then something is wrong.
Thank you for creating this, as I may need to do this. However, isn't it possible that it is the thermostat switch? How do we check that?
It is very much a possibility, yes. Both heating elements as well as the manual thermostat can be tested for continuity using an DMM set to ohms.
@@Jandmrvrentals any idea what the resistance of the heating element should be? I'm measuring 99.8 ohms on the heating element. Not getting much more than 20v ac out of the thermostat when set on 7, and 11v when set to 1. Not sure how that thermostat is supposed to work though.
@@MrBrandonh98 Brandon. Did you ever find any answers for the "resistance needed on the 110 heating element." And what about the thermostat? What output should you get @ 1 and/or 7? I have all classic symptoms of a dysfunctioning 110 element. Replaced it and only cooling to 44. Thank you for any help!
Can we leave the fridge on 12V while running on shore power? The power converter should be able to supply the 12V right? Not sure what the purpose of the 120V option is.
Running it that way will put alot more strain on the converter. The 12v should really only be used when in tow. The 110v option doesn't put a load on the converter, it takes power from the breaker.
the cylinder on the right side that connects the heating element is hot does it means to say it is working?
Yes if that area is hot then the system should be working. Give it at least 4 hours to test the inside temp of the fridge.
Any chance you know where i can purchase a cooling unit for the Dometic RM2193? I got my unit to work on propane (pilot light looks great as a nice blue), so i'm guessing the cooling unit is bad?
The Dometic part number for the cooling unit is Dometic: 2936360110. If the unit won't cool even with the lp system working correctly it is possible that the ammonia has leaked out of the system. Sometimes you can actually smell it when it's leaking.
@@Jandmrvrentals Thanks so much for the quick reply! so i didn't see any of the classic yellow residue or smell that would suggest ammonia has leaked. the fridge has been sitting for probably 5+ years. my guess is that the ammonia solidified in a tube?
Also, i fired up the propane and have a good clear/blue flame and let it sit for about 40 minutes... checked in the fridge and it really wasnt getting cold. should i have left it running longer you think?? again its been sitting for a long time but i dont see any real leaks anywhere.
I would make sure the unit is level and run it again for at least 4 hours. If you see no difference in the fridge temperature then the cooling unit is most likely damaged. If it does start to cool then leave it for 24hrs and see if it has reached 40⁰ by then.
The cooling unit is fairly expensive, it almost may be cheaper in the long run to buy a new fridge.
@@Jandmrvrentals yeah that's what i've been seeing (expensive cooling unit vs buying new, lol). OK great!!!! thanks so much for the tips!!!! all the local guys around here (connecticut) weren't even 1/2 as helpful, lol.
No problem at all
Hi! I have a new to me Pop-Up with a DOMETIC RM2193 that started tripping the CGFI. Reading the Ohms on the element I am getting about 99. In my troubleshooting I disconnected my wiring to the thermostat knob and my pictures did not come out so not sure how to plug them back in. I think it is white to the top middle blank and black to bottom? Searched online can't find any clear info. Thanks!!!
I take it this is too old of video for anymore dialog but I did determine the order for the heating element connection to thermostat (white skip one black, grounds are at top to frame). Unfortunately I am still unable to use 120V as it continues to trip any CGFI power source used. As I am getting the correct ohms reading on the heating element disconnected I checked continuity on the Thermostat terminals for the white and black spade connections and they are toning out so am assuming that needs to be replaced. Cleaned out my burner so at least I can use the propane for now.
@@robertcabrera3375 I also get about 99 ohms on both the new element and my old element (looking like I didn't need to but a new one - dang, waited too long to test). I"ve got more testing to do to verify the switch working, will try to update or edit this reply if I come up with more. I came to this video trying to see how to test the thermostat. I took the switch apart and I did notice that it seems to have gotten hot enough to allow one of the terminals to shift slightly (melting), but the switch tests ok.
I did get mine working. It will occasionally trip my GFI but I can reset it (3x sometimes) and get it to stay working. Not sure if it is because it was on when I plugged into my house or because I am plugging it into a 20 AMP house circuit as I haven't experienced a trip of GFI at campground. 🤔 Well we sold the pop-up now so on to something else!
my heating element and back of fridge vents get hot but my fridge doesnt get cold.. Ive tried shore power on 15amp outlet.. 12v.. nothing works. What can it be?
In some cases, especially if the fridge has been sitting idle for a while, the system may need to be burped. Before doing this you want to check the piping for any sign of ammonia leaking out. Any smell or discoloration on an area of the pipes would indicate this. If no sign is present, you can proceed to burping the fridge. There are some videos going into it more but it involves flipping the fridge on its head for a few minutes and then back right side up. This mixes and untraps any air that may be causing the system to not circulate.