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Thank you, I appreciate it!

If one corner of the vent isn't flush with the roof anymore, you can try to use the butyl tape underneath the raised area and then apply the lap sealant on top. If the corner is bent significantly, then I would remove the vent and use a heat gun to try and straighten it some.

Sometimes, that can also be caused by a bad relay pack on the winch. If you are turning the limit switch adjustment screw and it never works, then I would check out the relay pack as well. I do have a video posted on how to replace the relay pack if needed. Thanks for watching!

@@Jandmrvrentals I took out a limiter and verify with multimeter that switches are working properly. The next step as you suggested to verify relay pack

@@Jandmrvrentals it was relay assembly. one of relays doesn't work

@@rpogontsev You can purchase a new relay pack online. The part number from Powerwinch is: R001751

For any parts like that, we usually have to contact the Forest River parts dept. You can email the representative who deals with the popups. Include your trailer info, description of the part or parts needed, and a picture of them. The email for Kathy, the representative, is kswope@forestriverinc.com

No problem at all, im happy it helped. Thanks for watching!

There can be situations when you have to turn it for a while. I will normally lift the roof back up and keep turning. It should eventually stop. If you reach another 100 turns and it still doesn't work, I would inspect the small plastic gear located on the limit switch. I have seen them slide over, making it unaligned with the metal gear. This would cause the limit switch to not work at all.

That's awesome, glad to hear you were able to get it working again. Thanks for watching!

I would consider that the "upper door stow away hinge" on a two-piece door. If the trailer is a Rockwood or Flagstaff, you can email the parts department with a picture of it and your trailers year, make, and model. They have always been very helpful in getting the parts I need. If it's an older trailer or a non forest river product, you may have luck on eBay finding a used door piece that has the hinge attached.

@Jandmrvrentals oh heck no, I just took the hinge off this one, it's driving me nuts haha I just need to find something to screw into the door then get held by the latches. Im on the hunt, thanks for your response!

Thank you very much for watching my videos! I'm really glad they are helping others such as yourselves. Unfortunately we have that exact same problem in my area, nobody will repair a tent trailer even if you bought it from them. That's why I decided that I would focus solely on them. If you ever have any video requests or any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I'll always try my best to help out!

Hey there, thanks for watching! The limit switch has two allen screws on it, one red(lower) and one white (upper). I would try and increase the screw about 10-20 times or so and then hit the switch in that direction. If you see the motor briefly work, then it is most likely the limit switch that needs to be adjusted further. In some cases, I have seen the small plastic gear on the limit switch housing shift to the side, causing it to not contact with the mating gear. This would prevent the limit switch from operating properly.

Awesome video, by the way. It's all in there with no extra BS.

Hey there, thanks for watching! I do believe that the large gear is in the way of the rivet. You may be able to get in there. I just don't think there is much room between the frame rails.

@@Jandmrvrentals Yes, but there's a second rivet on the relay pack that's right on the green board and it's not blocked by the gear. That's the one I was thinking could be removed and replaced with the new pack to save time. Cheers!

@scottcroydon My apologies, now I see which one you are referring to. Yes, I think you will be fine doing it that way. I was just following the procedure that is stated in the manual.

The pawl is attached to the shaft with a snap ring. You will need some small snap ring pliers to remove it. Once removed, you can slide the pawl and spring off of the shaft. Take note on how the spring wraps around the pawl, the other side of the spring goes into the hole on the winch. Install the new spring in the same direction as the previous one. Slide the new pawl on the shaft, make sure the teeth are engaging. I sometimes use a pick to put the spring back on the pawl. Install the snap ring back in place. Hope this helps!

I'm really glad my video was helpful, Thanks for watching!

I take it this is too old of video for anymore dialog but I did determine the order for the heating element connection to thermostat (white skip one black, grounds are at top to frame). Unfortunately I am still unable to use 120V as it continues to trip any CGFI power source used. As I am getting the correct ohms reading on the heating element disconnected I checked continuity on the Thermostat terminals for the white and black spade connections and they are toning out so am assuming that needs to be replaced. Cleaned out my burner so at least I can use the propane for now.

@@robertcabrera3375 I also get about 99 ohms on both the new element and my old element (looking like I didn't need to but a new one - dang, waited too long to test). I"ve got more testing to do to verify the switch working, will try to update or edit this reply if I come up with more. I came to this video trying to see how to test the thermostat. I took the switch apart and I did notice that it seems to have gotten hot enough to allow one of the terminals to shift slightly (melting), but the switch tests ok.

I did get mine working. It will occasionally trip my GFI but I can reset it (3x sometimes) and get it to stay working. Not sure if it is because it was on when I plugged into my house or because I am plugging it into a 20 AMP house circuit as I haven't experienced a trip of GFI at campground. 🤔 Well we sold the pop-up now so on to something else!

You can unplug the motor wires and put a multi meter on the motor leads to test the relay pack. If you are seeing voltage in both switch positions, then the relay pack should be fine.

Glad I could help, thanks for watching!

To fix this, you must increase the upward limit switch allen screw. The limit switch is normally on the top side of the winch. Some early models have it on the bottom. There is a white and a red allen screw on the limit switch body. Those are the adjusters. Increase the white screw a few turns at a time and then press the roof switch up until you are at the desired height.

If it will not do anything when going down, no matter how high up you raise it, then it will probably be the relay pack. If it does go down briefly but stops, this could be a limit switch issue. You would need to increase the downward limit screw and lower again until you reach the proper level.

Ty for response so I ordered the relay and required new relay and does the same thing 🥹 but I discovered that the white cable seems to be the problem it was stripped a bit I tried to stop a bit to reconnect but as you know the wire is short and didn’t work… I am scared to stop it more since there like only half an inch to work with 🥹, open to any and all ideas you may have 🙏🏻…

@NM S You could always lengthen it with a piece of new wire. Solder it to the existing wire or just use a connector for now.

In some cases, especially if the fridge has been sitting idle for a while, the system may need to be burped. Before doing this you want to check the piping for any sign of ammonia leaking out. Any smell or discoloration on an area of the pipes would indicate this. If no sign is present, you can proceed to burping the fridge. There are some videos going into it more but it involves flipping the fridge on its head for a few minutes and then back right side up. This mixes and untraps any air that may be causing the system to not circulate.

Thanks for watching. Since the motor did work fine going in the opposite direction, there was really no need to test the motor. The relay pack is what allows the motor to reverse its direction. If you aren't getting any movement going both ways, then further testing should be done to the motor and circuit breaker as well.

Thanks for watching, I will be making a video on changing the cable soon, which will show how to reinstall the cable to the winch spool. The manual override nut screws onto the motor shaft to lock the gear to the shaft. There is an E clip that goes after the nut to prevent it from backing off. If the nut has broken off, then the whole motor has to be replaced. If the threads are still visible, you should be able to get a new lock nut and e clip at your local hardware store.

@@Jandmrvrentals Well it wasn't the relay that is causing it not to go up. I did the toggle switch also. If I go down then quickly go up it works for a second only. I am purchasing a new limit switch to try. Any other ideas besides getting a new winch. OH how do you take that nut off!? I have the e clip off and tried to unscrew it but the gears keep turning and I'm afraid to clamp on to anything to hold it.

Have you tried to adjust the limit switch at all? There also is a gear on the limit switch that can fail, make sure that it is not damaged. Without actually seeing it firsthand, those are really all I can think of to check. For the winch nut, you might have to take a vise grip with a piece of rubber for protection and clamp the shaft right before the gear.

@@Jandmrvrentals where to adjust it at? And what would cause it to be needing adjusted!?

@@Jandmrvrentals I can take a pick and send it, if that can help.

Haha I definitely agree, they can be a real pain at times. Thanks for watching!

@@Jandmrvrentals I have searched everywhere for the screws that you used. Can you give me the size as I may be hearing you incorrectly?

@@teachandtravel3715 I apologize for the mix up. On the video I misspoke, they are actually #8x 3/8 pan head rv screw. I tried to include it in the description as it wouldn't let me add a note on the video itself.

100% LoL

Thanks for watching! There are a few different door styles used over the years depending on brand. This style is typically found on Rockwood and Flagstaff popups with the one piece door. The slide bolt may work on other styles with a little more modification.

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

Here is the link for the relay pack. This is where I purchased mine from. www.tesstools.net/Carefree_R001751_Relay_p/r001751.htm

Running it that way will put alot more strain on the converter. The 12v should really only be used when in tow. The 110v option doesn't put a load on the converter, it takes power from the breaker.

The Dometic part number for the cooling unit is Dometic: 2936360110. If the unit won't cool even with the lp system working correctly it is possible that the ammonia has leaked out of the system. Sometimes you can actually smell it when it's leaking.

@@Jandmrvrentals Thanks so much for the quick reply! so i didn't see any of the classic yellow residue or smell that would suggest ammonia has leaked. the fridge has been sitting for probably 5+ years. my guess is that the ammonia solidified in a tube? Also, i fired up the propane and have a good clear/blue flame and let it sit for about 40 minutes... checked in the fridge and it really wasnt getting cold. should i have left it running longer you think?? again its been sitting for a long time but i dont see any real leaks anywhere.

I would make sure the unit is level and run it again for at least 4 hours. If you see no difference in the fridge temperature then the cooling unit is most likely damaged. If it does start to cool then leave it for 24hrs and see if it has reached 40⁰ by then. The cooling unit is fairly expensive, it almost may be cheaper in the long run to buy a new fridge.

@@Jandmrvrentals yeah that's what i've been seeing (expensive cooling unit vs buying new, lol). OK great!!!! thanks so much for the tips!!!! all the local guys around here (connecticut) weren't even 1/2 as helpful, lol.

No problem at all

Yes if that area is hot then the system should be working. Give it at least 4 hours to test the inside temp of the fridge.

Yes the large pipe (flue) that I removed the shroud from will get very hot if your fridge is working properly. Normally if I dont feel heat from the top vent within 30-60 min then something is wrong.

It is very much a possibility, yes. Both heating elements as well as the manual thermostat can be tested for continuity using an DMM set to ohms.

@@Jandmrvrentals any idea what the resistance of the heating element should be? I'm measuring 99.8 ohms on the heating element. Not getting much more than 20v ac out of the thermostat when set on 7, and 11v when set to 1. Not sure how that thermostat is supposed to work though.

@@MrBrandonh98 Brandon. Did you ever find any answers for the "resistance needed on the 110 heating element." And what about the thermostat? What output should you get @ 1 and/or 7? I have all classic symptoms of a dysfunctioning 110 element. Replaced it and only cooling to 44. Thank you for any help!

Thank you! That is a good possibility or perhaps the wires to the element are causing the outlet to trip. If you do an ohm test between the two white wires that will let you know if the element has shorted. From what I have read, if you get an ohm reading then it should be good still. If it is showing an open circut then it is no longer good.