Instructions with every o2 I have ever installed "Make sure the sensor is at least 10 degrees upward from horizontal"... T&R... proceeds to install 45 degrees downward facing..... LOL!
I honestly think the point is that in a flat section of pipe the sensor isn’t the low point. The low point is is where the pipe bends and goes horizontal below the sensor. I hear what you are saying but in my case space was limited and i dont think water is going to pool on the sensor where it is located
The reason for at least 10 deg upwards is so that the sensor doesnt get condensation and screw up the sensor,if you cant install it at these specified angles then in my opinium its pointless,your just asking for problems.
Any condensation will run right into the sensor! seriously that is so incorrect. So you are wrong the point is to have the probe end facing down..We all make mistakes man just own up to it.
Appreciate this series...about to retrofit an AVS2 to a '65 Mustang 289 I've just inherited, and this is on my radar of things I'd like to add. Wish I had welding skills for the bung, though...
Nice install. PLEASE do not hot-start the sensor. i.e. never let the gauge heat up the sensor, before starting the engine. That sensor gets up to 1400F. And, when that cold blast of startup exhaust and condensation hits the ceramic element, in the sensor, is cracks, like throwing water on a hot windshield. That is the cause of early sensor death, in at least 90% of cases.
@@ford351cleveland As soon as you turn the gauge on, it starts heating up the sensor. If it gets past about 3 or 4 ticks of the "HEAT" cycle, the sensor is too hot to start the engine. Switch off the igniotion for a few seconds, to let the sensor cool of a bit, before starting.
These are the kind of comments that really make my day 🥸. Thank you for watching! Bout to slap some exhaust on the comet today (welding up a custom exhaust as we speak).
the last engine i had rebuild i did some up grades on the engine and had to get a chip burn and it was never right it was birning to rich i end up washing my cylinders out..i dont want that to happen again i converted my tbi over to carb now......thanks for the imfo. my brother.
How is the water going to drain out of your sensor? Pretty sure it should be on the side and 10 degrees over center so the sensor will drain any water that gets in it.
The sensor protrudes into the pipe a good bit. Ideally i could have rotated it to the side but it would have hit. If you are filling the entire exhaust tube or half of it with water youve got bigger problems. Its not at the lowest point and has not been an issue so far. When i eventually install headers i will mount it in the collector where i have (hopefully) more space
what is the best one to buy just rebuild my engine 5.7 1990 k5 blazer i got edelbrock carb on there i already have headers so the hole is there for the 02 sensor i converted it from tbi to carb.
Just now seeing this video and AEM instructions say to add a 5 amp fusible link to your 12 volt supply and I noticed that you didn’t, have you had any problems without it? And is your 02 still in the same location that you mounted it in with no issues? I’m getting ready to install the same gauge in my car and was wondering what your installation outcome was.
The 5amp fuse is to protect the unit from any power spikes. No i didnt have any issues without it. However more recently I rewired the entire car and this is now protected by a 5a fuse. As far as mounting location yup its been working fine all this time. No problem
Youre not wrong the orientation isn’t ideal. Space was very limited and that exhaust was coming off for headers/larger diameter. With that being said the idea is you dont want condensation pooling on the sensor. My thought was it was up on the downward sloping portion. FWIW it still works great in my new exhaust setup and has matched closely to dyno tailpipe o2s for tuning
There are a few. Here is one specific to idle mixture adjustments th-cam.com/video/4m77L_6hOQI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ey-XAlRs6FyZsUQI Here is one on the dyno after doing heads, cam, intake, full exhaust, etc. th-cam.com/video/P0PFq4a-jRE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=HNWhxJ24caf_7sbC
You do not. If you want to know the difference from side to side then yes. Even with 2 (on per side) you would only be getting an average of the 4 cylinders (per side on a V8). So in short no you dont. OEM only run 1 per side to adjust the tune.
Check the video description. Tons of options out there. Here is one i have used successfully in the past (and in this video). www.amazon.com/AEM-30-0300-Wideband-Sensor-Controller/dp/B0184TSI84/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=1G2TGA5C1LCH1&keywords=aem+wideband+o2+sensor+kit&qid=1688327789&s=automotive&sprefix=aem+wideband+o2+sensor+kit%2Caps%2C119&sr=1-2&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.f5122f16-c3e8-4386-bf32-63e904010ad0
I do not. I had to sell some things and potentially more to come to fund my largest car purchase in a while. Ive got a really fun unique car coming to the channel that I ordered from Ford back in the end of March. Unfortunately it keeps getting delayed.
@@truckandroll989 sorry to hear you had to sell it. if you dont mind i ask what did you end up letting the cobra go for? i know you purchased it relatively cheap.
@@TheBLAXXDEATH Its all good. I ordered a ‘21 Mach 1 so it will surely be fun. I wound up getting like 8500-9 for it I honestly forget exactly. With all the work I did it actually did not wind up being a money maker
@@truckandroll989 Nice. That's a decent fetch for a sn95 cobra in this market. You're right though the work you did on it was worth a good penny. I saw a 21 Mach 1 around town, can't mistake the paintwork on the hood and sideskirts
Instructions with every o2 I have ever installed "Make sure the sensor is at least 10 degrees upward from horizontal"...
T&R... proceeds to install 45 degrees downward facing..... LOL!
I honestly think the point is that in a flat section of pipe the sensor isn’t the low point. The low point is is where the pipe bends and goes horizontal below the sensor. I hear what you are saying but in my case space was limited and i dont think water is going to pool on the sensor where it is located
The reason for at least 10 deg upwards is so that the sensor doesnt get condensation and screw up the sensor,if you cant install it at these specified angles then in my opinium its pointless,your just asking for problems.
Any condensation will run right into the sensor! seriously that is so incorrect. So you are wrong the point is to have the probe end facing down..We all make mistakes man just own up to it.
Appreciate this series...about to retrofit an AVS2 to a '65 Mustang 289 I've just inherited, and this is on my radar of things I'd like to add. Wish I had welding skills for the bung, though...
Nice install. PLEASE do not hot-start the sensor. i.e. never let the gauge heat up the sensor, before starting the engine. That sensor gets up to 1400F. And, when that cold blast of startup exhaust and condensation hits the ceramic element, in the sensor, is cracks, like throwing water on a hot windshield. That is the cause of early sensor death, in at least 90% of cases.
How do you do that... Not not hot starting thankyou
@@ford351cleveland As soon as you turn the gauge on, it starts heating up the sensor. If it gets past about 3 or 4 ticks of the "HEAT" cycle, the sensor is too hot to start the engine. Switch off the igniotion for a few seconds, to let the sensor cool of a bit, before starting.
@@lordandprotector thankyou very much man will definitely do so.
good vid, even better stash dude
These are the kind of comments that really make my day 🥸. Thank you for watching! Bout to slap some exhaust on the comet today (welding up a custom exhaust as we speak).
the last engine i had rebuild i did some up grades on the engine and had to get a chip burn and it was never right it was birning to rich i end up washing my cylinders out..i dont want that to happen again i converted my tbi over to carb now......thanks for the imfo. my brother.
i have threads on my headers is that to close to the engine for this gauge?
How is the water going to drain out of your sensor? Pretty sure it should be on the side and 10 degrees over center so the sensor will drain any water that gets in it.
The sensor protrudes into the pipe a good bit. Ideally i could have rotated it to the side but it would have hit. If you are filling the entire exhaust tube or half of it with water youve got bigger problems. Its not at the lowest point and has not been an issue so far. When i eventually install headers i will mount it in the collector where i have (hopefully) more space
what is the best one to buy just rebuild my engine 5.7 1990 k5 blazer i got edelbrock carb on there i already have headers so the hole is there for the 02 sensor i converted it from tbi to carb.
Aem makes a good one. Cant go wrong with any of their gauges.
Just now seeing this video and AEM instructions say to add a 5 amp fusible link to your 12 volt supply and I noticed that you didn’t, have you had any problems without it? And is your 02 still in the same location that you mounted it in with no issues? I’m getting ready to install the same gauge in my car and was wondering what your installation outcome was.
The 5amp fuse is to protect the unit from any power spikes. No i didnt have any issues without it. However more recently I rewired the entire car and this is now protected by a 5a fuse. As far as mounting location yup its been working fine all this time. No problem
@@truckandroll989 Thanks for the info because it will definitely help me with my install. 👍
3:54 Sensors should be installed at least 110 degrees to the pipe, never pointing down.
Youre not wrong the orientation isn’t ideal. Space was very limited and that exhaust was coming off for headers/larger diameter. With that being said the idea is you dont want condensation pooling on the sensor. My thought was it was up on the downward sloping portion. FWIW it still works great in my new exhaust setup and has matched closely to dyno tailpipe o2s for tuning
Is there a tune video ?
There are a few. Here is one specific to idle mixture adjustments
th-cam.com/video/4m77L_6hOQI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ey-XAlRs6FyZsUQI
Here is one on the dyno after doing heads, cam, intake, full exhaust, etc.
th-cam.com/video/P0PFq4a-jRE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=HNWhxJ24caf_7sbC
Do you have to run 2 Aem Air/fuel mixture gauges if it’s a v8?
You do not. If you want to know the difference from side to side then yes. Even with 2 (on per side) you would only be getting an average of the 4 cylinders (per side on a V8). So in short no you dont. OEM only run 1 per side to adjust the tune.
What's the part number for the kit?
Check the video description. Tons of options out there. Here is one i have used successfully in the past (and in this video).
www.amazon.com/AEM-30-0300-Wideband-Sensor-Controller/dp/B0184TSI84/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=1G2TGA5C1LCH1&keywords=aem+wideband+o2+sensor+kit&qid=1688327789&s=automotive&sprefix=aem+wideband+o2+sensor+kit%2Caps%2C119&sr=1-2&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.f5122f16-c3e8-4386-bf32-63e904010ad0
@@truckandroll989 Thank you
Do you still have your cobra?
I do not. I had to sell some things and potentially more to come to fund my largest car purchase in a while. Ive got a really fun unique car coming to the channel that I ordered from Ford back in the end of March. Unfortunately it keeps getting delayed.
@@truckandroll989 sorry to hear you had to sell it. if you dont mind i ask what did you end up letting the cobra go for? i know you purchased it relatively cheap.
@@TheBLAXXDEATH Its all good. I ordered a ‘21 Mach 1 so it will surely be fun. I wound up getting like 8500-9 for it I honestly forget exactly. With all the work I did it actually did not wind up being a money maker
@@truckandroll989 Nice. That's a decent fetch for a sn95 cobra in this market. You're right though the work you did on it was worth a good penny. I saw a 21 Mach 1 around town, can't mistake the paintwork on the hood and sideskirts
you're welding that on oh no0
Def not my best work but check out some of my newer videos. Id like to think i got better