This is a great video and was well made and very useful. One point was left out - we were replacing the hubs on a 2007 Outback and found that although the bolt flange on the hub looks symmetrical (two one side and two on the other) it was in fact not. The bolt holes on the front of the flange are slightly skewed and will only fit one way. Unfortunately when you put the brake back plate on and put the hub on the axle spindle you really can't tell that the holes don't line up. Two would go in and two wouldn't. Cost a couple of hours of head scratching.
Very concise tutorial. The tip to use the crowbar for leverage when removing the axle nut was very helpful. I didn't have a 32 mm socket but turns out 1 1/4" fit perfectly. As I was on the ground under the car removing the hub assy bolts I had difficulty getting the proper leverage as the bolts were very tight. Breaker bar with long extension would sag down so socket wasn't in line with the bolt and no clearance to torque the bolt. Solution was to carefully wedge a large wrench across the suspension just under the extension so extension couldn't droop. Then connect 1/2" drive ratchet to the extension, then pipe over the ratchet handle for leverage with just enough ground clearance to break the bolts free.
Thank you for this video. Getting everything to break free was a bit tougher for me, but I was able to follow the video and install the hub assembly by following this video. A huge help and money saver!
Outstanding video... I've already watched it at least three times while I wait for my parts to arrive. Now I know I can tackle this project with confidence even if the hub has seized (thanks to another one of your videos that shows multiple ways of dealing with that problem).
Hahaha, not that you see in the video. But you can be certain that impact tools (air or electric) were used to initially break free the fasteners and then after they were tightened the video was taken to show them coming off nice and easy with hand tools. If you live in the salt belt most of the these fasteners will be extremely difficult to break loose, especially if you don't have a lift and are lying on your back under the car. Penetrant definitely helps, but not much. Impact tools are almost a requirement. I mean, two taps on one mounting bolt to remove the hub? In the real world that's not happening. Remember, these videos are made to convince DIYers that the job is easy enough to do themselves and they should buy parts from 1AAuto and do it. I love that they show how to do the job, but they definitely have an agenda.
Interesting how the intro picture for selecting to watch the video shows a drum brake assembly, but the video is actually working on an axle with disc brakes
As near as I can tell, the bolts on my hub are installed backwards. I can find bolt head on the inside, next to the bearing, where I have no clue how they were installed, but not on the outside where they are in this video.
So I got the bearing out but it looks like my assembly is trash I think it’s the dust shield? Would you happen to have the part or know the name of it?
Excellent - Can you tell me - is it possible for a wheel bearing to exhibit no play when the tire is off the ground and you are shaking the tire? I believe mine is going, (noisy) but the wheel has no play.
Absolutely, wheel bearings can be noisy and not have play. Wheel bearings are tricky. I've replaced a few wrong ones (wrong side). It can really be deceptive to find the correct one to replace. Usually if you turn left and it gets louder it's the right side, but not always the case (when turning left all of the weight of the vehicle gets shifted to the right).
Hi. Well done and filmed. I'm curious to know if the bearing had any physical play in it or was it just an audible grind? - I believe mine is worn, but exhibits no play when I elevate the car and push and pull on the tire, there is however, a grinding sound. Not sure if it's my diff or the bearing.
+chesky baba We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
From my understanding, this should still work on a 2001-2004 Outback as well correct? They didn’t change the rear hub design from 04-05, just the front?
@@nathanb9396 It is different for a 1997 as these years have a press in bearing. It is more complex than the 04-09 years which are a complete replaceable wheel bearing. You will need to remove the hub and use a shop press to get it out. Not fun.
This car must not be from up north. Yesterday I checked the transmission fluid and it took me about 30 minutes just to get the dip stick out. I bought the car a couple of months ago and I put another engine in it. Everything is rusted and seized up
LOL try doing this job with a vehicle from Upstate NY....might as well cut it off and buy a whole new assembly . between the salt they use on the roads and the rust parts actually corrode so bad they weld themselves together.
+STREETFIGHTER50 This procedure might be different for your application. We do not currently have a how-to video for this particular year, make and model. Thank you for asking! 1AAuto.com
+Atown in Ytown Thanks for checking us out! We don't have a how-to video for your vehicle right now, but the basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task.
As a lesbian I was unfamiliar with busting the nut loose, lol. I had to get a map acetaline torch & heat the hub nut for 3 or 4 minutes & then I was able to break it loose with a breaker bar. Without the torch, the car was literally lifting up off the jackstand.
Just finished this very task , it is not a 20 minute job on 1810000 miles bearings it was a 6 hour misery of fighting seized everything . I had Pb blaster on it for two days prior to doing the work and getting the axle to slide out of the hub was a horror show , the punch was not up the task and I had to resort to a larger diameter rod and ended compressing the end of the axle enough to make getting the new nut on a long drawn our process of working it back and forth to chase the threads , seriously I'm just dropping off the 2nd bearing and nut with my car at the shop and paying the hour or two of shop time . Would never do this myself again. My everything hurts .
Do you need to replace the axle nut after the lock part gets mangled from the punch? I am not sure that part actually touches the threads on the axle? Thanks!
Wonderful tutorial. Shows everything so nicely, and not using any special tools. That trick with tapping the bolts from behind to loosen the assembly was great. This is the best tutorial for this procedure out there. After watching this it only took me an hour to switch bearings on both rear wheels on my Forester.
+Roy Helge Rasmussen Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Great video! My 1st one I had to put the wheel back on to bust the hub nut loose. Instead of punching it from behind I found it easier to use a crowbar to pry the backing plate with the hub off of the axle or a straight screwdriver. Don't panic if the axle comes out, just slides back in. Just finished the other side. Not much warning this time. Instead of squealing for days, this one seized & in 2 blocks the lug bolts broke off & the wheel rolled 20 feet. Thank god it didn't cause an accident. This Subaru is crap. 100k miles & it's fubar.
Hey 1a auto... can you explain to me why BOTH of my rear bearings that I purchased from 1aauto for my 05 Subaru Outback are starting to grind and wear out just 6 months after install? Also, why don’t you have a customer service number?
I agree - this is a GREAT video,. Lots of practical methods to remove parts for an amateur who doesn't have pneumatic tools. Take a look at "OH BOY! Subaru's Stubborn Corroded REAR Wheel Bearings- BAD AND UGLY!" to see how to diagnose a bad bearing, then this vid is the guide to the fix.
This did not work on my ‘06 H6. Love the brake reminder though at the end to prime the cylinder. I once went down my driveway and almost into the neighbors house, madly pumping the pedal! Good thing our street was clear. Hasn’t happened since. Great video thanks but mine was the type on your excellent video for a 2010 OB. My bearing had 187k on it- not bad, Subaru. Great video A1
+TheBromosapien We don't have a how-to video for your vehicle right now, but the basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task. Buy this part for your vehicle on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Depends if you have a hydraulic press or know someone who will let you use theirs. If you don't have access to a press and want to do it yourself, you probably want to just replace the assembly.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
This is a great video and was well made and very useful. One point was left out - we were replacing the hubs on a 2007 Outback and found that although the bolt flange on the hub looks symmetrical (two one side and two on the other) it was in fact not. The bolt holes on the front of the flange are slightly skewed and will only fit one way. Unfortunately when you put the brake back plate on and put the hub on the axle spindle you really can't tell that the holes don't line up. Two would go in and two wouldn't. Cost a couple of hours of head scratching.
Very concise tutorial. The tip to use the crowbar for leverage when removing the axle nut was very helpful. I didn't have a 32 mm socket but turns out 1 1/4" fit perfectly. As I was on the ground under the car removing the hub assy bolts I had difficulty getting the proper leverage as the bolts were very tight. Breaker bar with long extension would sag down so socket wasn't in line with the bolt and no clearance to torque the bolt. Solution was to carefully wedge a large wrench across the suspension just under the extension so extension couldn't droop. Then connect 1/2" drive ratchet to the extension, then pipe over the ratchet handle for leverage with just enough ground clearance to break the bolts free.
Thank you for this video. Getting everything to break free was a bit tougher for me, but I was able to follow the video and install the hub assembly by following this video. A huge help and money saver!
Outstanding video... I've already watched it at least three times while I wait for my parts to arrive. Now I know I can tackle this project with confidence even if the hub has seized (thanks to another one of your videos that shows multiple ways of dealing with that problem).
This is a great tutorial for one simple reason: You're not using air tools!
But Subaru uses them and that's okay,, Geeeeeez!
Yes
Hahaha, not that you see in the video. But you can be certain that impact tools (air or electric) were used to initially break free the fasteners and then after they were tightened the video was taken to show them coming off nice and easy with hand tools. If you live in the salt belt most of the these fasteners will be extremely difficult to break loose, especially if you don't have a lift and are lying on your back under the car. Penetrant definitely helps, but not much. Impact tools are almost a requirement. I mean, two taps on one mounting bolt to remove the hub? In the real world that's not happening. Remember, these videos are made to convince DIYers that the job is easy enough to do themselves and they should buy parts from 1AAuto and do it. I love that they show how to do the job, but they definitely have an agenda.
well documented! very pro! Cant wait to do it myself, thank you!
As a 7 tear subaru tech, it's obvious you guys did this once before you started filming. They never just fall out of the spindle like that, EVER.
This is one thing I love about Subarus, easy and simple to work on unlike American brands. 👍💯 Also I just set the e-brake and removed my axle nut.
wonderful job. thank you for helping it mean alot to me to learn the right way and love the prices on parts you guy are truely the best in my book
This is my dude! great tutorial and cant wait to do it myself
+Antonio Orellana Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
Interesting how the intro picture for selecting to watch the video shows a drum brake assembly, but the video is actually working on an axle with disc brakes
Remember guys it’s 47.9 ftlbs not 48 or 50!
:P
Why not 48
Yeah hahahaha I noticed that 😂
Good mechanic....well filmed video
+Bart Maliszewski Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Well presented full of good detail.
Please cut out the drum and other background noises, it’s very distracting.
On point! Prob going 2 tackle
this 2morr. 😅😅.
Is this one car or two separate cars youre working on? Because I'm seeing a brake caliper, then I'm also seeing brake shoes. Does that make sense??
Excellent, clear presentation.
+Carlos Vicens Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
As near as I can tell, the bolts on my hub are installed backwards. I can find bolt head on the inside, next to the bearing, where I have no clue how they were installed, but not on the outside where they are in this video.
Do you need a new axle nut to reinstall?
So I got the bearing out but it looks like my assembly is trash I think it’s the dust shield? Would you happen to have the part or know the name of it?
Excellent - Can you tell me - is it possible for a wheel bearing to exhibit no play when the tire is off the ground and you are shaking the tire? I believe mine is going, (noisy) but the wheel has no play.
Absolutely, wheel bearings can be noisy and not have play. Wheel bearings are tricky. I've replaced a few wrong ones (wrong side). It can really be deceptive to find the correct one to replace. Usually if you turn left and it gets louder it's the right side, but not always the case (when turning left all of the weight of the vehicle gets shifted to the right).
Great video 👍
Toby from the office
Nicely done, thanks!
Did he say why he was changing this wheel bearing hub?
The hub and bearing come as an assembled unit, rather than a press in. Which, from my understanding the press ins are a bit Orr of a pain
Hi. Well done and filmed. I'm curious to know if the bearing had any physical play in it or was it just an audible grind? - I believe mine is worn, but exhibits no play when I elevate the car and push and pull on the tire, there is however, a grinding sound. Not sure if it's my diff or the bearing.
+chesky baba We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
From my understanding, this should still work on a 2001-2004 Outback as well correct? They didn’t change the rear hub design from 04-05, just the front?
Might want to double check that, the generation before this have press in bearings.
I'm surprised how easy that is, must be the latter years that the job becomes more involved.
Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com +Specialized 29er
Do you have to remove the brake caliper from the mounting bracket to remove the bracket?
I’ve seen the procedure done by removing the assembly as a whole but it can make for more of a hassle.
What years does this cover? I have a 1997 that needs to be done.
It’s mostly the same process for every vehicle. It’s not going to be exactly the same but the steps are similar
@@nathanb9396 It is different for a 1997 as these years have a press in bearing. It is more complex than the 04-09 years which are a complete replaceable wheel bearing. You will need to remove the hub and use a shop press to get it out. Not fun.
@@drwatson1234 hi , do you know whats if it is a press bearing for a 03 forester ( sg version ) ?
Thanks
pretty sure all outbacks have rear disc brakes - mine does and it's a 2008
Those are the parking brakes, the brake disc came off earlier...maybe you should't touch your own brakes, genius.
Will a 2002 outback be pretty similar to this or will the parking brake need disassembly?
+Josh Simpson The installation of the part should be similar for this vehicle.
This car must not be from up north. Yesterday I checked the transmission fluid and it took me about 30 minutes just to get the dip stick out. I bought the car a couple of months ago and I put another engine in it. Everything is rusted and seized up
LOL try doing this job with a vehicle from Upstate NY....might as well cut it off and buy a whole new assembly . between the salt they use on the roads and the rust parts actually corrode so bad they weld themselves together.
are these the same hub assemblies for foresters(2008 specifically)?
+OptimisticDeadman The Forester will take different wheel hub and bearings. The Legacy would share the Outback bearings.
wow bery good
Would this be the same for a 2007 Impreza 2.5
+STREETFIGHTER50 This procedure might be different for your application. We do not currently have a how-to video for this particular year, make and model. Thank you for asking! 1AAuto.com
Is this the same process for an 05 Subaru Legacy?
+Atown in Ytown Thanks for checking us out! We don't have a how-to video for your vehicle right now, but the basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task.
Yes it is, the speed sensor tip and putting the bolts partway in to smack it forward with the punch was a winning trick for mine.
Impact gun would save you a boat load of time removing that wheel lol
Some one don’t have impact gun
@@projectbychao565 If you're used to work like this and have a lift then you SHOULD have an impact wrench. Doesn't cost that much.
Looks like you forgot to re-install the ABS sensor -- LOL
Ok why TF are my 4 hub bolts on the inside like what who did this!?!?!
47.9 footpounds! 😂😂😂
As a lesbian I was unfamiliar with busting the nut loose, lol. I had to get a map acetaline torch & heat the hub nut for 3 or 4 minutes & then I was able to break it loose with a breaker bar. Without the torch, the car was literally lifting up off the jackstand.
I laughed when he said "these sensors are very, um, sensitive."
The punch trick saved my bacon, thanks!
Just finished this very task , it is not a 20 minute job on 1810000 miles bearings it was a 6 hour misery of fighting seized everything . I had Pb blaster on it for two days prior to doing the work and getting the axle to slide out of the hub was a horror show , the punch was not up the task and I had to resort to a larger diameter rod and ended compressing the end of the axle enough to make getting the new nut on a long drawn our process of working it back and forth to chase the threads , seriously I'm just dropping off the 2nd bearing and nut with my car at the shop and paying the hour or two of shop time . Would never do this myself again. My everything hurts .
This 1A auto guy needs to use more curse words to simulate realism.
It would be nice if you timestamped or listed the torques down either at the beginning of the video or in the description
Very precise instructions and filming with handy tips like the speed sensor removal. Just got to get the courage to do it myself.
Hi, can i do the same procedure in subaru xv? By hammering the bolts at the back?
Do you need to replace the axle nut after the lock part gets mangled from the punch? I am not sure that part actually touches the threads on the axle? Thanks!
Wonderful tutorial. Shows everything so nicely, and not using any special tools. That trick with tapping the bolts from behind to loosen the assembly was great. This is the best tutorial for this procedure out there. After watching this it only took me an hour to switch bearings on both rear wheels on my Forester.
+Roy Helge Rasmussen Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Nice tip wacking from the back on the bolt thanks!
I'm doing this job right now. Your video is GREAT!!! A big help 👍 P.S.: I don't think the sensors are that "sensitive"
Can you press the old hub on a new bearing.??.. there's no videos on that.
This guy is awesome. Very complete tutorial in a way every garage mechanic can understand. Well done!
+Cole Trickle Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
Rattle gun thank me later
Great video! My 1st one I had to put the wheel back on to bust the hub nut loose. Instead of punching it from behind I found it easier to use a crowbar to pry the backing plate with the hub off of the axle or a straight screwdriver. Don't panic if the axle comes out, just slides back in. Just finished the other side. Not much warning this time. Instead of squealing for days, this one seized & in 2 blocks the lug bolts broke off & the wheel rolled 20 feet. Thank god it didn't cause an accident. This Subaru is crap. 100k miles & it's fubar.
+Chaos Queller Thanks for checking us out. We are glad that this video helped out and you weren't in an accident!
Hey 1a auto... can you explain to me why BOTH of my rear bearings that I purchased from 1aauto for my 05 Subaru Outback are starting to grind and wear out just 6 months after install? Also, why don’t you have a customer service number?
+Kevin B Hello we do have a customer service number it is 888-844-3393.
Just use OEM parts.
My original bearings at the front gave up after 233000 miles.
i hope my mechanic pays attention to the speed sensor. thanks for the heads up.✅
+buzz kirschner Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Why did you not Grease the brake caliper bolts? Did a great job on everything the center of that far down you should have regrease those
Grease will affect the torque setting.
The bolts will be tighter than factory spec.
I agree - this is a GREAT video,. Lots of practical methods to remove parts for an amateur who doesn't have pneumatic tools.
Take a look at "OH BOY! Subaru's Stubborn Corroded REAR Wheel Bearings- BAD AND UGLY!" to see how to diagnose a bad bearing, then this vid is the guide to the fix.
This did not work on my ‘06 H6. Love the brake reminder though at the end to prime the cylinder. I once went down my driveway and almost into the neighbors house, madly pumping the pedal! Good thing our street was clear. Hasn’t happened since. Great video thanks but mine was the type on your excellent video for a 2010 OB. My bearing had 187k on it- not bad, Subaru. Great video A1
I like that you guys use hand tools and not impacts for everything. Most ppl wont have that luxury
Great instructions , easy to foilow ,Thanks !!
Very good & instructive presentation.
Is the removal process fairly similar for a 2008 Subaru forester? The only difference I've noticed so far is the fact mine has drums instead of disks.
+TheBromosapien We don't have a how-to video for your vehicle right now, but the basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task. Buy this part for your vehicle on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I have a 2004 subaru impreza wrx. Would it be easier to just replace the whole hub rather than just the bearing?
Depends if you have a hydraulic press or know someone who will let you use theirs. If you don't have access to a press and want to do it yourself, you probably want to just replace the assembly.