Ive run several diesel heaters over the years, they come out of the box factory preset with max/min fuel and corresponding fan speeds. Dependant on how its installed these may need to be adjusted and the exhaust emissions sampled to ensure a clean burn. In this instance the max fuel rate might benefit in a slight reduction to say 5.0hz to stop the heater reaching its top end temp and enabling its overheat protection. Once the body temp reaches >230degrees it will reduce output. I find body temps 130 low end 210high results in best longevity and performance. Some controllers with the remote display show body temp, or alternatively the afterburner system is excellent (check compatibility some newer motherboards wont work). Nice build, all the best 👍🏻
Edit: removing the intake side screw on plastic cover also will improve airflow and reduce overall body temps a fair bit, if safe and practical to do so
Fluid dynamics say that the corrugations in the pipe and the sharp bend should never get it working with laminar flow but miracle you got it working well done.
Thankyou for this video just ordered the same kit and was between locating the kit in a double bench seat location in the front or the rear units under the bed this has helped massively with the decision
@@joshken3118 no worries pal. That’s what’s I hope people get from my videos. I wish I had seen this before we placed ours you just never know until you get in there and start putting it all together.
Matt, the autoterm lads are brilliant...... I would go to them and ask them to check over it all. The last thing you need is a dodgy heater in the Arctic... Loving the build, absolutely great work.
If you're concerned about heat build up add an exhaust fan to the cabinet, also adds to general van heating. I used a 12v heat sink fan plus thermal switch. Install and forget. I don't run a heat exchanger but do run boxed in exhaust pipes, on 8kw heater. Split underfloor/living space heating.
I was going to say - I bet it’s shutting down due to the air temp in the van rather than airflow. We have a 4kwh but no Bobil and we love it. Only need to run 20-30mins at that keeps us toasty all night… perhaps not in the Arctic in Dec though 😂
Mine has just a slightly longer duct from heater to heat exchanger and has been fine so far. Mine is buried and built into my kitchen so fingers crossed it is fine 🤞🤞🤞
Yer I don’t think it is a problem now. I’m happy with the setup. I may look at the intake and output locations in the garage but I think it working fine now.
So is it suggesting your air intake is too close to the output as straight away it's picking up the hot temperature in a small space. Surely you want the heater running at full pelt when heating the water? I have my intake and exit pipes at opposite end of the van so as it only drops down when the full van is up to temp..
That could be the case and makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the input. It would be better I guess to have the intake and exit pipes like that and for the heating that’s the case. The hot water only takes 15minutes to heat the tank with the Bobil system so at this point you would go back to heating the cab anyway.
Try heating the hot water first or on the combined water and heat, that way the hot air issue should not cause it the ramp down, rather than having a door open in the cold weather
So the fact you heated the van before flicking over to hot water was contributing to the issue? If you run it full blast on hot water with doors closed does that work OK? That's got to be closer to normal use pattern?
It runs fine for about 20 minutes but when the van is up to temperature it reduces the output. My understanding was that the heater will do this because it doesn’t need to be on full power to heat a already hot space.
To anyone installing a diesel heater, I've used and repaired many, give it its own dedicated space that you can access and lift it out, inevitably the fan bearings will go, need a glow plug or suffer a fuel/pilot air blockage, be kind to your future self and make it an easy repair!! 😂
Ive run several diesel heaters over the years, they come out of the box factory preset with max/min fuel and corresponding fan speeds. Dependant on how its installed these may need to be adjusted and the exhaust emissions sampled to ensure a clean burn. In this instance the max fuel rate might benefit in a slight reduction to say 5.0hz to stop the heater reaching its top end temp and enabling its overheat protection. Once the body temp reaches >230degrees it will reduce output. I find body temps 130 low end 210high results in best longevity and performance. Some controllers with the remote display show body temp, or alternatively the afterburner system is excellent (check compatibility some newer motherboards wont work). Nice build, all the best 👍🏻
Edit: removing the intake side screw on plastic cover also will improve airflow and reduce overall body temps a fair bit, if safe and practical to do so
Thanks for you input Paul. I will take a look at the cover. Good to hear from someone with some experience of these Diesels heaters.
Fluid dynamics say that the corrugations in the pipe and the sharp bend should never get it working with laminar flow but miracle you got it working well done.
Thanks 🤜🤛
Thankyou for this video just ordered the same kit and was between locating the kit in a double bench seat location in the front or the rear units under the bed this has helped massively with the decision
@@joshken3118 no worries pal. That’s what’s I hope people get from my videos. I wish I had seen this before we placed ours you just never know until you get in there and start putting it all together.
Glad it worked out buddy as this is an epic build just like Id want it👌👌
Thanks mark. 🤜🤛
Matt, the autoterm lads are brilliant...... I would go to them and ask them to check over it all. The last thing you need is a dodgy heater in the Arctic... Loving the build, absolutely great work.
That’s a good shout. Thanks for the advice I will do that 🤜🤛
If you're concerned about heat build up add an exhaust fan to the cabinet, also adds to general van heating. I used a 12v heat sink fan plus thermal switch. Install and forget. I don't run a heat exchanger but do run boxed in exhaust pipes, on 8kw heater. Split underfloor/living space heating.
That’s such a good idea. Thank you. 🤜🤛
About to fit my autoterm heater so good to know about the flow of air. Going to the artic in December!!! Are you mad 😂
Happy to help. Just another thing to consider. We love snowboarding and cold climates. So yes maybe a little 😂😂
@@abucklifenow I understand why you need the AWD crafter 👍
😂😂 I hope it helps.
I was going to say - I bet it’s shutting down due to the air temp in the van rather than airflow.
We have a 4kwh but no Bobil and we love it. Only need to run 20-30mins at that keeps us toasty all night… perhaps not in the Arctic in Dec though 😂
Hi guys. Thanks for your input. Yes it get very toasty on full power when I was testing it. I hope it keeps us warm!
Mine has just a slightly longer duct from heater to heat exchanger and has been fine so far. Mine is buried and built into my kitchen so fingers crossed it is fine 🤞🤞🤞
Yer I don’t think it is a problem now. I’m happy with the setup. I may look at the intake and output locations in the garage but I think it working fine now.
So is it suggesting your air intake is too close to the output as straight away it's picking up the hot temperature in a small space. Surely you want the heater running at full pelt when heating the water? I have my intake and exit pipes at opposite end of the van so as it only drops down when the full van is up to temp..
That could be the case and makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the input. It would be better I guess to have the intake and exit pipes like that and for the heating that’s the case. The hot water only takes 15minutes to heat the tank with the Bobil system so at this point you would go back to heating the cab anyway.
Try heating the hot water first or on the combined water and heat, that way the hot air issue should not cause it the ramp down, rather than having a door open in the cold weather
That’s a good shout. I think you are right. I will let you know how we go.
Thank you. 👍🙏
So the fact you heated the van before flicking over to hot water was contributing to the issue? If you run it full blast on hot water with doors closed does that work OK? That's got to be closer to normal use pattern?
It runs fine for about 20 minutes but when the van is up to temperature it reduces the output. My understanding was that the heater will do this because it doesn’t need to be on full power to heat a already hot space.
my opinion that’s all too close to compact 😂 (mess)
I was fully prepared to alter it all but if Bobil have signed off on it I am happy for now. I will see how it goes and can always adjust it if needed.
To anyone installing a diesel heater, I've used and repaired many, give it its own dedicated space that you can access and lift it out, inevitably the fan bearings will go, need a glow plug or suffer a fuel/pilot air blockage, be kind to your future self and make it an easy repair!! 😂
This is great advice I wish I knew before but as it’s my first build there’s alot it take on.