Adam Ondra: Why I Graded Silence 9c... | Climbing Daily Ep.1155
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ก.ค. 2024
- During a recent filming trip with Rockbuster climbing courses and Adam Ondra we stole a few minutes to talk to the man behind the hardest sport climb in the world. We talked about the process that led to the successful send, how he trained and why he decide on the eventual grade of 9c.
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Adam Ondra: Why I Graded Silence 9c... | Climbing Daily Ep.1155 - กีฬา
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You can grade it however you want when nobody else can climb it
If no one else can climb it then just make it a new grade
@@OneDerscoreOnederThat's what happened
lol factsss
Who screwed the clips in
@@EXITLlFE as far as I know, Adam did
That leg twist on the foot jam is CRAZY....!!!
Watch his video about climbing silence,these moves are crazy
I was showing the video to my friend and he had to be admitted into the hospital because he broke his leg just by watch the video.
his neck is graded at 10a
nobody has ever been able to climb it, not even adam
>Says being downgraded would be super embarrassing
>Is notorious for downgrading routes he repeats
TheFasting Well, so you can figure what he feels about the guys that rated them in the first place and why it took him some consideration before calling it a 9c.
I'm not sure he says just being downgraded is embarassing, it's quite common after all. I think he mean to say that being downgraded after proposing à whole new cotation would be
The easier a route is for you, the easier it is to analyze the grade, and what makes it harder/easier.
There’s always the chance of Silence being upgraded... ?
Lachlan Nossiter well I think that if vrry good climbers have to grade 6b-s or 6a-s there is a higher chance for.them to missgrade the probkems, rather than someone who's limit is close to those grades. Some of the beet climbers may not even notice the difference in tha hardnes.
Rediculously humble
Boulder master
LOVE Hearing from him
Insanely cool you got to climb with him
Tell us more about how chatting with him was!
It was awesome. He's very down to earth, but so so psyched on climbing. It's his whole world.
Absolutely love Adam. Such a down to Earth and wholesome person
I love Adam's attitude and determination and just his pure passion for climbing, truly inspirational!
i love that he never acknowledges how good he is. he always says "if I want to be as good as I can be". such a humble guy for the best climber in the world!
I don't think he doesn't acknowledge how good he is, he just believes he can be even better. At that level the only comparison you have is yourself from yesterday. ;)
Adam Ondra seems like a genuinely nice dude. Such an inspirational climber too. Love the video!
i beg to differ, seems like a twat
ThePoohat how?
@@neilkurowski4991 i just find his personality grating.
really that doesn't matter though, he's not in the public eye for his personality, and, he is one of the best climbers of all time. i just stick to watching him solve problems rather than interviews etc
WOW, just WOW.. Talented, dedicated, beyond belief. Humble as hell. Good on you mate. Respect!!!
Calm down..
Because its harder than 9b+.
I guess if his 9C was downgraded he would win the 9b counter. I always learn something listening to his interviews and feel inspired.
This was awesome to watch! Loved hearing from Adam- He has my up-most respect.
Thanks Mitchell!
Utmost.
I don't think anyone will repeat Silence in any time soon :D
I'm going this Summer to do it.
@@cmhardin37 good luck
@@cmhardin37 So? You did it? :)))
did you?
@@alexandrumititelu647 he died. Rip Chris Hardin he died pushing the limits...
Imagine training in the same gym as Ondra! What a tough gym it would be lol
!KOTELNA! (thats the name of the gym)
i think there aren't any set boulders in his gym you just show up and make stuff up
I imagine just the door handle to be a 7C problem.
AHHHHH
AHHH
AHHHHHHHHHH!!!
AHHH
"Requires Hanus Flexibility......which I have."
Hahah such a great quote
Heinous?
@@Woodroffski no man... hanus... sound it out... H "huh" + ANUS "ANUS" ... your way makes no sense.. definitely "hANUS"
Learn to spell retard
So... having had a cabin in Flatanger for... 20 years... guess who's embarrassed to never have climbed at Hanshelleren?
Your family!
6:30 holy SHIT those fingers are massive O_O
4:22 beast!!!
I do wonder if the humility of top climbers like Ondra could be slightly limiting the progression of new higher grades. Like, could it be possible for Adam to climb another 9c route like DNA (or others in the future) and with that perspective, upgrade Silence rather than downgrading the other route?
This guy is just nice, I don't even climb I like his videos
When I'm going to climd it I'm going to upgrade it to 10C++
Frees up time to do some easier climbing... like campus a v10 traverse..
One of the guys who sent Action Directe says he has a 'pocket weakness' XD
and he was fifteen... 😅😂
do a video with @magnusmitbo
I like Climbing 🧗♂️
My best was 34DD. She was great!
Aaron F lol 😂
Bring on 10a!!!
not to bum you out but there's 9c+ first
9d?
I can climb 10a, even 10b indoors! 5.10a (6a/6+ Fb/UIAA) and 5.10b (6a+/7- Fb/UIAA) of course ;)
Hagar Tsesarsky well if you think that the grade is a harder than what 9c+ would be like, you could grade it 10а, without 9c+ even existing.
@Brandon Hassan thats the joke..
If the grading remains honest i can see humans eventually conquering 9c+, maybe even 10a. Not beyond that, physically impossible. They are near the limits. Of course they can 'say' this was a 10b or whatever, but it probably won't really be. It is just as well for now that the person setting the standard and calling the highest grades (as the best climber) is a person of integrity.
dude's like bran stark
4:16 I wouldn't even think that's possible
i bet this guy would destroy in brazilian jui jitsu. hes so damn wirey and flexable and strong as fuck
If adam got a gi grip on me I'd probably just tap. It's over lmao.
JRE and Alex honnold had a conversation about how some of the top Juijitsu guys do rock climbing as a supplemental exercise and vice versa so pretty cool
He could just grab you hands or legs or back muscle and you will tap lol
That would be bad-ass climbing with Ondra! ....but embarrassing !
I'm gonna head out there and check the grade for him....hold my beer
Borec jak cep!
is it because it has a V15 boulder in it?
Adin Warner-Rosen I’d argue after watching the wide boys do it easily in their videos I can’t say that’s v15. Maybe v13. Still the hardest route or top 3.
Etan Plan did the wide boys do this? If you have a link to the video please post it. I couldn't find anything on there attempts on silence. Unless you're mistaken?
@@Drew-gm4sywatch?v=fQWHvDvtMFs
@@Planclanman3 I think it depends on the climber. Wide boys are crack specialists. Ghisolfi recently said that he felt it was harder if anything and that the most challenging part was transitioning into the crux rather than the actual boulder problem itself.
@@Drew-gm4sy no it's in their channel. ?
Dude neck is longer than a monday
really called out megos at 2:30 😭😭
I can climb stairs and reckon I can beat this guy, hold my beer...
You dead?
I once did 10 flights in an elevator and got stuck for two hours. Hold my rum and coke.
R/bouldering users would call it 5.11a
See over here in 'merica, we dont even give letter grades till you hit 5.10, maybe if he trains harder he'll get past 5.9c, my dog can climb a 5.6 and he just wants to chase squirrels..
9c is a high 5.15 in your scale
I don't even know what to write :D :D :D
I can't believe this troll attempt is actually working on people lol.
Wtf? Until you watch him climb don’t pretend you could even hold a candle to Adams God like climbing skills ....
There are tons of hard 5.8c+ in Red River Gorge, go check them out, probably this Adam fellow could flash them, but never heard of 5.9c..I think 5.9c is like 5.10..anyway, he could never climb stuff like our boy Caldwell, 5.14 Damn Wall, could you imagine that? Sick!
Sorry -Forgot REAL Climbing !!
bert from sesame street
Silence will almost certainly be upgrade to 9c+, maybe 10a
No, it almost certainly will not. You have nothing to base that idea on.
@@flightevolution8132 i do
@@eddyertang No, you clearly don't. And if you actually do, then link your source.
@@flightevolution8132 To "have an IDEA to BASE something on" does not have to have a factual source or pier reviewed article lol. It can be based on logical assumptions and certain beliefs within the climbing world. No, im not garunteeing it will happen, im saying i think there is a good chance it will.
If you wanted to know why i think this you could have just asked... You are welcome to disagree but don't be so autistic about it.
@@eddyertang Ahh, I see. You don't have any evidence, so you resort to using fancier words that you incorrectly assume I will have trouble following. Also, claiming that you can make this assumption because of "logical assumptions and certain beliefs within the climbing world" is absurd. It is not logical to believe that this route will be upgraded from its current status, and Mr. Ondra himself agrees with that fact. That in and of itself invalidates your ideas regarding the "good chance" it has of being upgraded. And FYI, if you think my response was autistic, why did you respond with, and I quote, "i do", when I asked you for any evidence to base your assumptions on instead of providing said evidence.
has any other elite climber tried this route and gave their opinion on it?
No, it hasn't been repeated by anyone yet.
Stefano Ghisolfi has posted a few videos of his attempts. Stefano's done 3 9b+ routes so he's no slouch.
@@hugmynutus yes, he confirmed via his channel that it is a 9c route. He couldn’t send this time, will try again next year:)
@@don6148 My comment was made before that video, fyi :)
Someone needs to free solo Silence #goals.
You'd need to be a top of the world climber and suicidal to even be able to try, probably will never happen.
This dude can probably squeeze your throat and rip it out like it's nothing. Dude can hold his whole body weight with one finger.
Sooo...are we switching to a 9c counter? 😂😂😂
you would have to make it the 2018 - 2100 9c counter to even have a couple of names on it :').
@@sma91dc78
my guess is the next 9c ascend is going to happen within 10 years of now
@@S3IIL3CT bibliographie by alex megos
@@land2097 downgraded
Вот такие видео хочется смотреть в 4K. Цвет, резкость - расстраивают
6:10 persons ahhh no
ondra sandbagged silence confirmed
It’s been 3 years, dude graded it a 9c, and we all can confirm he has still sandbagged it 😂
Adam Ondra neck vs Cristiano Ronaldo neck
H
thick fingers
Aa.. - 9 c... you kidding ?!
Where you want to do it ?
I have the right place for it !
DD
Just an american passin thru was is that in Vs again? Haha
generally the V grading system is used for bouldering only as far as I know, but if you were to convert it would be somewhere around V19
It would actually be a V21, which is just crazy.
lol he back-clipped at 1:24
Ian Brannan no he didnt
No he didn't
David Heywood yeah he did. The rope that would be leading to the belayer was on the outside of the rock. And his rope if he kept climbing was on the inside toward the rock. That's a back clip... but I'm sure he knows it was and did it on purpose. It looks like a traverse so it also wouldn't matter as much plus he took a break right before so most likely wasn't gonna fall in it
lol the climber side of the rope was on the rock...
smh its a 9d and he knows it but he prob thinks people will fear if its at that level and won't try but I don't believe its a 9c I just don't his levels are off cuz every thing is easy for him bet he didn't think that when he was still trying and falling
there is no such thing as 9d
well go climb it and we will see how many times you fall off
I find it bullshit that someone does a climb and grades it however they wish
You have a better idea?
If nobody else can do it, it makes sense
@@lizardi1037 How do you know if other climbers haven't attempted it?
@@DeFausti In fact, I do. How about have more climbers attempt to climb it before grading it. Logic!
If it’s wrongly graded it will quickly be downgraded. Silence still hasn’t been climbed again 5 years later, a French climb has also been graded 5c (bibliographie) but subsequently climbed again and downgraded with the agreement of the original climber. Everyone who has looked at both of them agrees that silence is a much harder climb.
Climb grading is bullshit
Alex Honnold would climb that in 60 seconds with no rope
No... He even said it himself.. Alex is a different type of climber.
yeah sure, he would fall after 60sec
No he wouldn't, Alex Honnold is the best free solo climber in the world but he is not the best or most technically skilled climber, he wouldn't be able to finish the route at all, no one but Adam Ondra has
Yeah, he probably couldn't last longer than 60s on this route.
I doubt Alex could get past the first crux.
Sounds like him saying it’s 9c is just him feeding his ego. But I could be wrong.
Chris Anderson I mean considering he’s the only one in the world that’s even capable of climbing this route and one of the only ones capable of climbing 9bs I would say he knows what he’s talking about lol
If there's anyone on planet earth who has earned the right to grade a project 9c, it's Adam "flashed a 9a+" Ondra.
he can feed his own ego all he wants if hes the only person to ever climb it💀
Stefano is the only other person to send 3 9b+ routes. From his TH-cam channel, he confirmed that the grade is correct. He tried to send it this year, but failed. Will go back next year
@@don6148 I wrote that 2 years so my opinion would def change now. The man is indeed a beast, I wonder if he will be able to do it again next year.
to climb with all the protective harness at a climbers disposal degrades the art of climbing. .free solo climb is better. .honnold is better. .meissner is better. .
Honnold is on another level.
None can achieve what he has achieved. At least, not in our time.
Maybe, far in the future.
But, what Ondra does is amazing too.
Conquering hardest routes in the world is no joke. Things that Honnold humself probably cant do.
So, Ondra has his ownplace as legend too.
I'll put this way: Adam Ondra is the best climber in the world rightnow.
And, Alex Honnold is the best athlete in any sport in the world.
He sets his own level.
Ondra is a better climber than Honnold, and that's a fact. Free soloing isn't "hard" per se, just dangerous and stupid.
Honnold himself says that Ondra is the by far the worlds best climber. Honnolds hardest route was a 9a and he said he prefers more relaxed and long climbs like a 5c.
It's completely different.
The climbers you mention couldn't do this.
He's just such a let down. And way over hyped. How many years has it been now; he was supposed to set the first 10a. But still no. 9c isn't good enough. Not even close. He's a bum
Is that supposed to be a joke?
@@waylandsmith8666 no. No it is not.
the best climber in the world is over hyped ? you live on Pluton ?
@@florianbetoulle5482 him being the best can easily be debated. He doesn't even free solo anything
He is by far the best sport climber, boulderer, and indoor competition climber in the world. All the other top-class climbers (Sharma, Megos, etc) agree on that. As far as multi-pitch goes: he is the only person to have free-climbed the Dawn Wall leading every pitch. No-one said he was 'supposed' to set 10a: he himself says above he almost certainly won't. He has done many 'high-ball' boulder routes: if he doesn't free-solo, it may well be because life is precious to him. He has lead-climbed 56 routes graded 9a+ (5.15a) and above: the next closest is Chris Sharma with 20 such routes. I really don't know what you want him to be more than he already is, I don't care, and neither I imagine does anyone else.
3:44 One slap 9b, Silence 9c. The names 'one slap', 'silence' makes me think this guy is arrogant, egoistic and is kind of trying to humiliate other climbers.
Whatever, I like Alex, much more humble and honest about his work, inspires me personally.
He named "Silence" after the actual silence (instead of traditionnal burst of joy) he had following the first ascent.
@@gwayav9 He should have called it "anything but silence".
"AAAAAGH and then, silence"
Did those names hurt your feelings?