I’d really like the idea of having a brief 10min catch up with a random pro climber every week, chatting about their life and the pool to choose from is vast so it shouldn’t be to hard to get someone on board.
I have really warmed to Adam over the years. I am sure part of it was how he was showcased in films early on, but it seems he has matured as a human and climber and is quite likable to all. Thanks for showing this.
A short 9b has to at least have an 8C+ boulder? Isn't 8C+ like, the second hardest font grade for bouldering? V16? So is he just calling the top boulderers weak? Not that I climb anywhere near that level, but assuming top boulderers and route climbers are at a relatively similar skill level, that comparison doesn't make much sense to me at all, otherwise. Basically saying that those that climb short 9b were climbing the hardest confirmed bouldering grade + extra moves, no?
You're last sentence is correct, he says that a short 9b sport route is pretty much the same as a (long) 8C+/V16 boulder problem. Seems fair no? It's probably not like the extra 5 meters of the climb are going to add much difficulty, it's very rare to have super consistent rock, that is hard consistently for more than a few meters. That doesn't mean that top boulderers are weak. It's just easier to get incremental increases in difficulty when fatigue plays a role a s well. I believe Megos described bibliography (9b+) as a 8b+ route, into a 8A+ boulder, ending in a sustained 9a. Individually, not that hard, together, so hard he thought (initially) it might be 9c. Also, Adam is a top boulderer as well, he has done multiple 8C+ boulders. But I doubt he'll ever be able to make more than 2 moves in 'burden of dreams'. Since it's a super hard, super short problem. For that you need the insane capacity of Nalle.
@@Pietervanloon1996 I think he says that the crux must be an 8C+ on a short 9b route, implying that sport climbers are a + grade above boulderers + extra moves (since 9b is the second highest confirmed sport grade, and 8C+ the highest bouldering grade). I thought this was interesting, so I made my comment. I'm not saying that Ondra thinks he's better at short boulders than the top boulderers, nor am I saying that he's unqualified to have this opinion. Just noting that if he thinks that 9b = 8C+, then he must see sport climbers as being ahead, as this implies short 9b+ routes must be harder than 8C+. Unless I'm totally delusional, or missing something.
Grades are incredibly subjective, blows my mind why we don't adopt the original grading method of 13- (A/B), 13 (B/C) and 13+ (C/D), rather than wiring down only one letter grade.
A sequence of hard, consecutive moves within a sport route is called a boulder problem. It is graded as if the problem was an actual boulder on the ground. Some routes do not have such a distinct sequence, but are rather continuously challenging without a clear crux section or maybe there is just a single crux move.
The big question, the one the people want the answer to, is when is he going into the Crack Cellar with The Wide Boyz?
I don't know why international media keep skirting around the question everyone wants to know.
Maybe Wide Boyz should venture out of the cellar like Will Bosi did🤔.
I’d really like the idea of having a brief 10min catch up with a random pro climber every week, chatting about their life and the pool to choose from is vast so it shouldn’t be to hard to get someone on board.
I would love to hear Adam talk about a route he thinks is 10a, even if he doesn't send it.
I love the definition "with harness" = route, "without it" = boulder problem, so which boulder grade is El Capitan?
Freerider is just a highball with a V7 boulder problem slab
🤣🤣🤣
probably a soft v8 😂
Yeah, El Cap is a "short route".
I think we can expect Baby Ondra to send a 10A in around 15-18 years haha
I have really warmed to Adam over the years. I am sure part of it was how he was showcased in films early on, but it seems he has matured as a human and climber and is quite likable to all. Thanks for showing this.
Such a likeable chap!
if you don’t have a harness, it’s a boulder problem… el cap V5 anyone?
Awesome video, great questions!
Everyone talking about arco and here I am just wanting to know when he's going back to perfecto mundo.
Me to! But somehow I think perfecto mundo is going to be like speed climbing. Never again.
It's a beautiful route and the only crack in his achievement. He still has to climb "Hubble" (8c+).
Adam: as long as you are wearing a harness you are sport climbing -> Alex Honnold: just bouldering 🤣
They were talking about short routes?
A short 9b has to at least have an 8C+ boulder? Isn't 8C+ like, the second hardest font grade for bouldering? V16?
So is he just calling the top boulderers weak? Not that I climb anywhere near that level, but assuming top boulderers and route climbers are at a relatively similar skill level, that comparison doesn't make much sense to me at all, otherwise.
Basically saying that those that climb short 9b were climbing the hardest confirmed bouldering grade + extra moves, no?
You're last sentence is correct, he says that a short 9b sport route is pretty much the same as a (long) 8C+/V16 boulder problem. Seems fair no? It's probably not like the extra 5 meters of the climb are going to add much difficulty, it's very rare to have super consistent rock, that is hard consistently for more than a few meters.
That doesn't mean that top boulderers are weak. It's just easier to get incremental increases in difficulty when fatigue plays a role a s well. I believe Megos described bibliography (9b+) as a 8b+ route, into a 8A+ boulder, ending in a sustained 9a. Individually, not that hard, together, so hard he thought (initially) it might be 9c.
Also, Adam is a top boulderer as well, he has done multiple 8C+ boulders. But I doubt he'll ever be able to make more than 2 moves in 'burden of dreams'. Since it's a super hard, super short problem. For that you need the insane capacity of Nalle.
@@Pietervanloon1996 I think he says that the crux must be an 8C+ on a short 9b route, implying that sport climbers are a + grade above boulderers + extra moves (since 9b is the second highest confirmed sport grade, and 8C+ the highest bouldering grade). I thought this was interesting, so I made my comment.
I'm not saying that Ondra thinks he's better at short boulders than the top boulderers, nor am I saying that he's unqualified to have this opinion. Just noting that if he thinks that 9b = 8C+, then he must see sport climbers as being ahead, as this implies short 9b+ routes must be harder than 8C+. Unless I'm totally delusional, or missing something.
Grades are incredibly subjective, blows my mind why we don't adopt the original grading method of 13- (A/B), 13 (B/C) and 13+ (C/D), rather than wiring down only one letter grade.
Great little interview! Shame you can’t be more honest about the fiasco that was the Olympics but still nice.
im a huge noob, and only boulder in a gym.
but what does it mean when a route has a boulder problem in it?
A sequence of hard, consecutive moves within a sport route is called a boulder problem. It is graded as if the problem was an actual boulder on the ground. Some routes do not have such a distinct sequence, but are rather continuously challenging without a clear crux section or maybe there is just a single crux move.
@@Thuky1 Thanks. I'm sure I'm not the only noob that watched Adam Ondra's Silence video and couldn't find an answer to the same question. 😆