Great how to video. As someone who has done many brake jobs at home i highly recommend applying a thin layer of anti size on the bolts that attach the caliper mounting bracket to the vehicle so it’s a lot easier to remove next time, and also around where the rotor meets the hub.
I do too. You do have to put it in maintenance mode but you can just squeeze it back in. No need to spin it. It even says on the instructions he holds up.
Great video! I find it helpful to use a lug nut to hold the new rotor on the hub. Snap On makes a tool that does the same thing for a couple hundred bucks I believe. A bit pricey, but it does have a lifetime warranty... And it says Snap On on it.
Good video, I watched for disabling the EPB. My $.02 is before you start to push the piston back into the caliper is to open the brake reservoir and put rags around it. When the pads get very low and the piston extends far the system can show as low fluid (and someone before you may have added more).
Thank you for Sharing I’ve change many breaks over the years I am no mechanic but there were a few different things on this one with the number seven Allen wrench that I did not know about but with your video I got through it and the brakes are fine working perfect thank you again
This video saved me. These cars are called Ford Endura in Australia but the instructions were great. Only omission was watching the brake fluid reservoir as you wind the piston. I had to syringe around 10 mls out.
I own a 2017 Ford Edge. I would buy/rent the tool used in video, but I did not have to screw in the caliper. I was able to just push it in. Also, I do not think it is neccessary to align the caliper after you push it in. My caliper was originally aligned at 45 degrees and I know it had not twisted in any way because the manufacturer applied an adhesive to back of pads. Nothing wrong with following the instructions in the video.
Great video amd very detailed. What are the torque specs for the caliber bracket. I know you mentioned the 7mm bolts but not the 15/16 one. Thank you very much.
@maxm9182 thank you very much. The stealership wanted 700$ parts+ labor. Your video was very detailed. Did the job myself on 2019 edge. Same braking system.
Have you ever done a brake bleed on these newer fords (Escape, Edge, or Fusion)? On the edge the ford service data says with the integrated E brake back there, you must apply pressure at the master cylinder with a power bleeder to bleed. I’m just curious to know if the normal bleeding methods work or if that special method that ford mentions is the only way?
Just a heads up to anyone doing this. You absolutely do not need that tool to get the piston back into the caliper. Just use the old c-clap method works just fine. Done it many times on my wife's 2015 edge.
Nice job destroying the caliper. You won't know until it starts to wear down a bit. Bravo sir. Eventually when that thread part runs the way out, good luck getting it rethreaded. If it wobbled while you compressed the caliper, the damage is already done.
@Slking507 The end cap on that piston spins zero issues. 3 brake changes later pushing 100k miles no issues yet but sure boss I'm sure they are destroyed.
So, there was no electric harness connected in the rear tire well or near caliper. I thought there would be since it is electric. I just got a 2023 ford maverick hybrid. Is that the same way that you did, more or less, if you do know? Maverick owners, hybrid, would sure like a video on rear brake replace. thanks for the video
I have a 2020 Nautilus which takes the same pads and rotors can I assume the replacement is the same? Also do you have a recomendation on a brand of pads and rotors ? thanks
Actually the reservoir cap will need to removed not to avoid pressure buildup but to REMOVE FLUID with a turkey baster. I did one car for a customer where all four of his pad sets were so thin, when I compressed the caliper pistons I had to remove fluid 4 times!
Getting ready to do all four on a 27 ford edge and I used to crack the caliper bleeder when recessing the piston to prevent damage to the ABS and pushing burnt fluid back into the system. Is that done anymore.
Yes, by opening the bleeder you are not risking damage to the ABS pump and you also are getting rid of some of the old fluid trapped in the caliper. Just remember to refill the master cylinder before pumping up the brakes when finished.
The directions in your hand says that caliper piston do not have to be rotated while pushed. I do not have this rotation tool. Are these directions correct? Can I just use C clamp? Thanks
Maybe, but the back side of the caliper has the e-brake housing made out of plastic. 5:57 Too much pressure you might crack it. A spreader tool should work just fine. The Ford Edge service manual says, "If the brake caliper piston bottoms out and the piston is still not fully compressed, rotate the piston clockwise while pushing inward using a brake caliper piston retractor until the piston is fully compressed." As long as the caliper slides back on over the pads you should be fine.
Old timer here: I took the brakes apart and was not aware I had to activate/ deactivate the maintenance system. I have not started to put the brakes back to together yet. Did I create a problem for myself.
No, just do the maintenance mode now. You just don't want to be working with it and the electronic parking brake crush your finger. Thanks for watching!
From the Ford manual: NOTICE: Use care when pushing the caliper piston into the caliper piston bores or damage to components may occur. Compress the brake caliper piston until the piston bottoms out in the brake caliper bore. NOTICE: Do not apply over 20 Nm (177 inlb) force when rotating the brake caliper piston or internal damage to the brake caliper may occur. If the brake caliper piston bottoms out and the piston is still not fully compressed, rotate the piston clockwise while pushing inward using a brake caliper piston retractor until the piston is fully compressed. Use the General Equipment: Brake Caliper Piston Retractor
One thing I noticed, is the fasteners for the calliper bracket should be installed with a dab of BLUE thread lock (loctite). They can vibrate and come loose (personally experienced this). I would also encourage to apply proper torque values to them as well; not just “two armed tight” 😆 OH! If anyone is wondering, the guide pins “or slide bolts as he referred as” uses Dielectric grease as the lubricant; don’t use regular grease or anti-seize. 😊 Great video, thanks for sharing.
@@joshdaniel7894 Typically use the Motorcraft Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound for caliper pins and lubricating pad brackets, etc. We use anti-seize on hubs to prevent corrosion. Yes to loctite on caliper bolts. To each their own. Do what your dealership specifies.
Hu… I’m struggling to understand why this is so expensive at a shop. Literally the only difference is that you have to do a button sequence in the cab prior to and after doing a normal brake job.
That is an accurate statement. It's expensive because brakes are almost always expensive at a shop. I wish that wasn't the case but that's why I make these videos. Thanks for watching!
I can change oil, I can change taillights, top off fluids, check oil, change and air up tires. For brakes, I'm calling a professional. Good video, but I've never done it, and I don't trust myself with my family's safety.
All good man I love the feeling I get after I fix a families unsafe vehicle feels really good to make them roadworthy again! I do some services for free when people obviously can’t afford but can’t get taken advantage of in this world it’s to easy sadly.
A man’s got to know his limitations. I’ve been doing my own mx on vehicles for 42 years but approaching 60, I’m starting to have some “mental reservations” myself. Last time I jacked up the C5 I forgot to remove the jacking pucks. One flew off the car as I was ripping down my street. Thank God it didn’t hit anything or anyone!!
The directions in your hand says that caliper piston do not have to be rotated while pushed. I do not have this rotation tool. Are these directions correct? Can I just use C clamp? Thanks
Great how to video. As someone who has done many brake jobs at home i highly recommend applying a thin layer of anti size on the bolts that attach the caliper mounting bracket to the vehicle so it’s a lot easier to remove next time, and also around where the rotor meets the hub.
The caliper bracket bolts need loctite and not anti-seize.
I miss the days of throwing a C-clamp on it and going.
"I know engineers, they love to change things!"
-Dr. McCoy Star Trek: The Motion Picture
Some still are, but yeah this is a classic case of engineers with nothing better to do. Thanks for watching!
My 99 mustang has the same rear caliper setup function🤷🏿♂️
I do too. You do have to put it in maintenance mode but you can just squeeze it back in. No need to spin it. It even says on the instructions he holds up.
Great video! I find it helpful to use a lug nut to hold the new rotor on the hub. Snap On makes a tool that does the same thing for a couple hundred bucks I believe. A bit pricey, but it does have a lifetime warranty... And it says Snap On on it.
Thanks!
Thank you so much!
Good video, I watched for disabling the EPB. My $.02 is before you start to push the piston back into the caliper is to open the brake reservoir and put rags around it. When the pads get very low and the piston extends far the system can show as low fluid (and someone before you may have added more).
Thank you for Sharing I’ve change many breaks over the years I am no mechanic but there were a few different things on this one with the number seven Allen wrench that I did not know about but with your video I got through it and the brakes are fine working perfect thank you again
Thank you so much!!! So easy and informative
You're welcome! 👍
Great video! Straight forward instructions and easy to follow. Brake job complete!
This video saved me. These cars are called Ford Endura in Australia but the instructions were great. Only omission was watching the brake fluid reservoir as you wind the piston. I had to syringe around 10 mls out.
Excellent video. Made changing my 2018 Edge’s rear rotors and pads a breeze!
I own a 2017 Ford Edge. I would buy/rent the tool used in video, but I did not have to screw in the caliper. I was able to just push it in. Also, I do not think it is neccessary to align the caliper after you push it in. My caliper was originally aligned at 45 degrees and I know it had not twisted in any way because the manufacturer applied an adhesive to back of pads. Nothing wrong with following the instructions in the video.
Yeah, it even says it on the instructions that he shows at the beginning of the video you do not have to screw the caliper piston back in !!!
Thank you so much for sharing this video. Just replace my wife rotors and brakes! Great step-by-step video. 😃😄
Nice work! Thanks for watching!
This is one fantastic video! THANKS!
You're very welcome!
Great Video !! You saved me!
You are welcome!
This was a very helpful video, thank you!
Thanks for watching!
What is the purpose of spring on brake pad?, @ 9:55 segment.
Anti-rattle spring and helps dampen vibration that causes squeal.
Great video amd very detailed. What are the torque specs for the caliber bracket. I know you mentioned the 7mm bolts but not the 15/16 one. Thank you very much.
Page I found said 75 ftlb for rear caliper
@maxm9182 thank you very much. The stealership wanted 700$ parts+ labor. Your video was very detailed. Did the job myself on 2019 edge. Same braking system.
Have you ever done a brake bleed on these newer fords (Escape, Edge, or Fusion)? On the edge the ford service data says with the integrated E brake back there, you must apply pressure at the master cylinder with a power bleeder to bleed. I’m just curious to know if the normal bleeding methods work or if that special method that ford mentions is the only way?
Did you ever figure it out?
How do you put the Electronic Parking Brake in service mode with a push start ignition? How are you suppose to put the ignition on or off? Thanks.
To turn the ignition on without starting the vehicle just push the button WITHOUT putting your foot on the brake.
@@stevewatts8642 Figured it out. Thank you. Very intuitive procedure once you're doing it. :)
Turn ignition to on, hold gas pedal down hit off and back on button and voilà
@@April-no7ew You're an amazing and kind person. :)
Just a heads up to anyone doing this. You absolutely do not need that tool to get the piston back into the caliper. Just use the old c-clap method works just fine. Done it many times on my wife's 2015 edge.
Nice job destroying the caliper. You won't know until it starts to wear down a bit. Bravo sir.
Eventually when that thread part runs the way out, good luck getting it rethreaded. If it wobbled while you compressed the caliper, the damage is already done.
@Slking507 The end cap on that piston spins zero issues. 3 brake changes later pushing 100k miles no issues yet but sure boss I'm sure they are destroyed.
@@thorjake13 "haven't broke them yet so it must be okay for me to keep doing this reckless and damaging thing" spoken like a true desk jockey.
So, there was no electric harness connected in the rear tire well or near caliper. I thought there would be since it is electric.
I just got a 2023 ford maverick hybrid. Is that the same way that you did, more or less, if you do know?
Maverick owners, hybrid, would sure like a video on rear brake replace.
thanks for the video
Thanks a million! Excellent video!
You are welcome!
I have a 2020 Nautilus which takes the same pads and rotors can I assume the replacement is the same? Also do you have a recomendation on a brand of pads and rotors ? thanks
Did I miss some mention of opening the reservoir cap while depressing the pistons? I thought that was necessary to avoid pressure buildup..
There is a small hole in the cap of every brake reservoir to prevent that. Thanks for watching!
Actually the reservoir cap will need to removed not to avoid pressure buildup but to REMOVE FLUID with a turkey baster. I did one car for a customer where all four of his pad sets were so thin, when I compressed the caliper pistons I had to remove fluid 4 times!
I don't think the 2019 or up has the rear brakes that turn in like that. You do still have to put it in maintenance mode, though,
If it's different it will be very slight. Thanks for watching!
What about 14'
Getting ready to do all four on a 27 ford edge and I used to crack the caliper bleeder when recessing the piston to prevent damage to the ABS and pushing burnt fluid back into the system. Is that done anymore.
Yes, by opening the bleeder you are not risking damage to the ABS pump and you also are getting rid of some of the old fluid trapped in the caliper. Just remember to refill the master cylinder before pumping up the brakes when finished.
Piston, on similar model Edges at least, do not need rotated. They are not threaded.
Great job I hate to do that job in the Rust Belt
Yeah I'd hate that too lol
Well done
The directions in your hand says that caliper piston do not have to be rotated while pushed. I do not have this rotation tool. Are these directions correct? Can I just use C clamp?
Thanks
You can use c clamp...if you carefully rotate piston with large pliers...it has to rotate...
Maybe, but the back side of the caliper has the e-brake housing made out of plastic. 5:57 Too much pressure you might crack it. A spreader tool should work just fine. The Ford Edge service manual says, "If the brake caliper piston bottoms out and the piston is still not fully compressed, rotate the piston clockwise while pushing inward using a brake caliper piston retractor until the piston is fully compressed."
As long as the caliper slides back on over the pads you should be fine.
I did every as in the video, but my car keeps sort of grinding while driving what can it be?
What are the torque specs for the bolts? Thanks
Old timer here: I took the brakes apart and was not aware I had to activate/ deactivate the maintenance system. I have not started to put the brakes back to together yet. Did I create a problem for myself.
No, just do the maintenance mode now. You just don't want to be working with it and the electronic parking brake crush your finger. Thanks for watching!
So, do you have to spin the piston while pushing it in or not?
From the Ford manual:
NOTICE: Use care when pushing the caliper piston into the caliper piston bores or damage to components
may occur.
Compress the brake caliper piston until the piston bottoms out in the brake caliper bore.
NOTICE: Do not apply over 20 Nm (177 inlb)
force when rotating the brake caliper piston or internal
damage to the brake caliper may occur.
If the brake caliper piston bottoms out and the piston is still not fully compressed, rotate the piston
clockwise while pushing inward using a brake caliper piston retractor until the piston is fully compressed.
Use the General Equipment: Brake Caliper Piston Retractor
I wish you did a video like this one for the front brakes as well. The other videos on youtube suck. Yours are good but no front brakes. :(
One thing I noticed, is the fasteners for the calliper bracket should be installed with a dab of BLUE thread lock (loctite). They can vibrate and come loose (personally experienced this). I would also encourage to apply proper torque values to them as well; not just “two armed tight” 😆 OH! If anyone is wondering, the guide pins “or slide bolts as he referred as” uses Dielectric grease as the lubricant; don’t use regular grease or anti-seize. 😊 Great video, thanks for sharing.
Antisieze is actually what we use at the ford dealer. 😊
@@joshdaniel7894 silicone grease is probably a better option, IMO. Over time anti-seize dries out. Silicone handles the high temps better as a lube.
@@ReclusiveMountainMan you aren’t ford handing us the ford labeled tube I do what you do I get sued
@@joshdaniel7894 Typically use the Motorcraft Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound for caliper pins and lubricating pad brackets, etc. We use anti-seize on hubs to prevent corrosion. Yes to loctite on caliper bolts. To each their own. Do what your dealership specifies.
@@ReclusiveMountainMan have to bro haha get sued it’s not a game where my opinion wins I’m just a tech there to work I don’t make the chemicals lol
What brand rotors did you use ??
AC Delco I think. Thanks for watching!
What are the torque ratings?
Nvm. You say 21 ft-lbs later on
Thanks for watching!
I’ve compressed my caliper, putting on new pads and rotor and I cannot get the caliper to slide back over the new pads for the life of me!!!
Are u sure you pushed them in all the way?
Couldn't spend a couple minutes to run through the park brake procedure.. 🙄
Hu… I’m struggling to understand why this is so expensive at a shop. Literally the only difference is that you have to do a button sequence in the cab prior to and after doing a normal brake job.
That is an accurate statement.
It's expensive because brakes are almost always expensive at a shop. I wish that wasn't the case but that's why I make these videos. Thanks for watching!
What about 14'
I can change oil, I can change taillights, top off fluids, check oil, change and air up tires. For brakes, I'm calling a professional. Good video, but I've never done it, and I don't trust myself with my family's safety.
All good man I love the feeling I get after I fix a families unsafe vehicle feels really good to make them roadworthy again! I do some services for free when people obviously can’t afford but can’t get taken advantage of in this world it’s to easy sadly.
A man’s got to know his limitations. I’ve been doing my own mx on vehicles for 42 years but approaching 60, I’m starting to have some “mental reservations” myself. Last time I jacked up the C5 I forgot to remove the jacking pucks. One flew off the car as I was ripping down my street. Thank God it didn’t hit anything or anyone!!
So why change rotor? I don't on my vehicles.. They should be good for at least 2 sets of pads...
You don't have to every time, I just do because rotors are so cheap these days and the braking performance is improved. Thanks for watching!
B
Nnncv
The directions in your hand says that caliper piston do not have to be rotated while pushed. I do not have this rotation tool. Are these directions correct? Can I just use C clamp?
Thanks
What did you end up doing?
I noticed the same thing.
Brother what happen plz I don't wanna buy this thing