Homemade CNC with 3D Printed Parts
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 มิ.ย. 2018
- Update 2018/08/18: I've made a new version, check it out here:
• Homemade CNC with 3D P...
This is a video about making my homemade DIY CNC with 3D printed parts. I've designed the 3D printed parts with Fusion 360.
To control the machine I'm using an Arduino UNO with GRBL firmware and an Arduino CNC Shield. There are plenty of tutorials to find on how to connect and use it so I did not show it in the video. Here are some useful links:
GRBL: github.com/gnea/grbl
Arduino CNC Shield: blog.protoneer.co.nz/arduino-...
To power the NEMA 17 stepper motors I've converted an old ATX PC power supply and used the 12V output. The type of stepper motors I use for the Y- and Z axis are: 17HS19-2004S1, the type for the X axis is: 42BYGHW811. For the wiring I've used CAT5 network cable.
Software that I mostly use to generate and send GCode:
bCNC (github.com/vlachoudis/bCNC)
Universal Gcode Sender (github.com/winder/Universal-G...)
Easel by Inventables (easel.inventables.com)
Fusion 360 with CAM (www.autodesk.com/products/fus...)
The 3D printer is an Anet A8. The parts are printed with PLA, mostly 20% infill and 0.2 or 0.4 setting.
More info and a list of materials that I've used can be found on my GitHub page: github.com/leonvandenbeukel/H.... But beware that this machine is still 'under construction' and will be modified over time. I share my design for others to experiment and learn from it. Just a warning, at the moment I would not even recommend creating this machine yourself 😃
Website: www.leonvandenbeukel.nl
GitHub: github.com/leonvandenbeukel - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I could watch bearings being press-fit with the vise all day. Not sure why but that part is so satisfying.
What a great project. Fascinating seeing you put it all together. Thanks for sharing.
Есаав
You can't argue with the ingenuity and you definitely can't argue with the cost. If you're doing light engraving with 16th and possibly eighth inch bits I'm sure that this tool is more than capable. I personally have built and use an MPCNC and I love it for small jobs and larger 3D printing. I really like your motor adapters with the window to tighten the coupler.
Hi, when I write a comment, I see the effort, the idea, the genius behind and the person. Thank you for sharing, for showing me the know how. keep up. you get a full support.
Thanks 😄
I actually thank you for this great video. And appreciate every single moment you spent on doing this tutorial. Many thanks to you from Iraq
Really nice work. I've been planning on building the MPCNC. But this has given me another path to consider. Thanks for the video and links.
5am and this just made my day.
Consider me incredibly impressed. Great job!
You are very talented on your builds. Very well made!
Thanks Klaus
Thanks & congratulations for such a great project!
this may well be the best and no doubt cheapest build I've ever seen - who would have thought of simply using square edger tubes rotated through 45 degrees. brilliant.
That's really neat. I also built my own CNC mill. Very fin project.
I would however point out, threaded rod is NOT your friend here. it will wear down much faster than you thing, prone to binding up, and flexing as well. Get yourself some proper leadscrews, they are a bit more expensive, but well worth it as far as durability, longevity, and SPEEEED!
Great approach. Thanks for sharing.
Keep up the good work Leon.
Prachtig gedaan Leon ! Petje af blijf je volgen om te zien wat je verder nog aan perfectioneren van de CNC gaat doen !
Dankje 😊
Excelent project. Thank you for sharing.
Simply exelent!
A great idea with rigid building, resulting in a professional cnc.
You are pro, I learn much from you. Thanks for sharing.
3ds parts you make great Job, congratulations!
Great idea! How is long term stability? How is environment humidity affect the wood? It look pretty stable anyhow. Can you keep us updated on long term performance?
Fantastique , bravo pour cette belle création
This is awesome man thanks for sharing the information.
th-cam.com/video/S0Hce1cKn_8/w-d-xo.html
Dude you are a genius, congrats ;)
GAH! you Stole my idea for linear slides! Nicely executed!
This is neat.
I am thanking you! Really exciting.. Thanks for sharing it!
Really it's a very wonderful work
Great job, congratulation.
Amazing!! congratulations!...
Wow! Amazing. I wish I could do that!
th-cam.com/video/S0Hce1cKn_8/w-d-xo.html
Unbelievable!
I learned a lot!
Thanks so much!
God bless you!
Excellent project
Well that was satisfying - apart from the sound the 3d printer bed makes when you pull back on it, pushing current back through the driver board. (maybe the video was just sped up - I'm really nitpicking here)
Thanks 😊. The sound is from a broken bearing.
Is it possible to get the cut dimensions / lengths of all the individual parts - ply, mdf, rods, square tubbing, etc. The spreadsheet BOM list the raw material but without knowing how to cut all the individual parts it would be hard for me to recreate this.
I'd really like to build one. I have a CR-10s4 so I can make the 3D printed parts. From the video I see most of the individual parts as they are assembled but there are no dimensions for the length of the rods, and tubing or the dimensions of the cut wood and mdf parts.
I would pay you for kit build instructions for this as a DIY project.
Hi, I will try to add a more detailed drawing later. For now:
Base front panel: 71 x 18 cm (22mm thick), 28" x 7" x 0.86"
Base side (Y rails): 93.5 x 10 cm (22mm thick), 36.8" x 3.9" x 0.86"
X rails carriage side panel: 36 x 18.5 cm (10mm thick), 14.2" x 7.3" x 0.39"
X rails tube length: 63 cm, 24.8"
Z rails tube length: 20 cm, 7.9"
Waste board bed: 61 x 92 cm (22mm thick), 24" x 36.2" x 0.86"
The threaded rods are 8mm (0.31") stainless steel. Lengths can be cut afterwards to fit the frame. Aluminium tubes are 15 x 15mm (0.59"). If I forgot something, just let me know.
Excelente projeto, parabéns 👏👏👏
Awesome, great job BRAVO
Amazing work it’s a pleasure to see it! May I ask you which 3D Printer you use? I am working on my fist printer from a German book, where I build most of the parts by my own. It will be made out of wood so it’s very interesting to see which great quality your printed parts have.
It's an Anet A8
Great project. Well done. Did you had any cracks on spindle mount? What kind of material did you used, ABS or PLA? Thanks for sharing.
Thanks. No cracks but I did get some other issues so I made another version, check the next video
@@LeonvandenBeukel cool, but what material is used in 3d prints, and would PLA do it ?
I love it. I’d love those stl’s or gcode as I’m embarking on this adventure myself.
Cheers
that's friggin awesome
great work my friend =)
Good job sir my next project is cnc I’ll try to make one also thank u very much
Awesome Dan (but please keep in mind that this machine is 'under construction', I might change things in the future to improve it. Ofcource I will share them on GitHub). Good luck with your project!
Awesome Project!
Awesome videos, love watching you build awesome things, was wondering we're you get the files for cnc machine to 3d print, thanks
I've designed it with Fusion 360. Check the GitHub link in the description for more info.
Complimenti ottimo lavoro cercherò se riesco di replicarla
Hello, great video 😄.
I'm a beginner and I have a question about about the implementation of the screw-nut system from 5:00 to 6:14.
Do we always need ball bearings when implementing a screw-nut system (like the one you embedded at 5:00) or is the threaded rod, the nut (like the one you embedded in 5:22) and the motor and shaft coupler are enough?
Thank you in advance for your precious time. 😉
Cordially.
This is excellent, far better thought out than the one I tried to make a few years ago. How precise is the machine, and can it cut metals?
Robbie
Hi Robbie, thanks. The X and Y axis are pretty accurate but the Z axis need some improvement (it cuts a little to deep). I'm not sure if it's because of the weight of the router or if it's just a matter of tuning the Z steps setting. Except for thin aluminium maybe, I don't think that this machine can cut metal. It's probably not strong enough. Also the router that I have does'nt have a variable speed control (for metal you need slower rpm) and also cooling would be a problem (the base is wood so I can't use cooling fluids).
Leon van den Beukel
Thanks, im trying to make a small CNC to mill aluminium, so these are important things for me to bear in mind. Even so, I think ill try to make it anyway.
Robbie
Why have you changed this type of linear rails (with v bearings and L of alluminium) with normale bearings and some 3d printed pieces in the last design?
Great job, you must have put some serious hours into this. The only thing I have reservations about is how flat the MDF table will remain, that stuff is great for sagging over time unless really well supported.
Thanks and your right about the MDF table
That looked like fun! Thanks for sharing...
which software did you use to print your parts?
the support of bridges looks fantastique!!
and a hell of a great job btw!
Thanks, I use Cura for slicing and printing.
Wow... Nice job!
Amazing project, may I ask if you tried anything aluminum, which one will have the most impact on the final result, according to your opinion, the construction or the router?
Thanks, I haven't tried aluminium so I don't know (yet).
Great Stuff. Do you consider to create all part and ship it for self assembling?
Thanks. No, I just made it for my own use and decided to share the design for others to experiment and create.
Great job!
Love ur work!
Thanks!
Well, this reminds me of Fred Flinstone meets CNC! I love it! PLA huh? Any reason why you used PLA over ABS? Just a curiosity really. I know it has not been very long but how do you feel the router mount is holding up? That feels to me like the weakest link. Totally Impressed.
PLA is stiffer. ABS can handle higher heat, but nothing here will get that hot anyway. Well it shouldn't anyway.
PETG is a better alternative to PLA but PLA should be fine. If he were going to machine anything harder then plastics wouldn't be a good choice anyway.
Thanks, the router mount is holding fine so far :)
trop fort!!!!!
bravo
Amazing design and workmanship. And yes I watched the new video twice already. I’m also kind of binge watching other videos.
I have one question. Does anyone know how those ‘nuts’ are called. I’ve been dreaming of stuff like that for ages and always ended up using normal nuts on the bottom encased in a wooden holder. A bit difficult to explain but I was thinking of designing the same nut holders from PLA until I saw it in the video at the 10:38 mark.
There are so many interesting and helpful gadgets, machines and other stuff but when you don’t know it exist or if you know but don’t know the name. Then you are really helpless.
Leon, you are truly an awesome designer and engineer.
Awesome, thanks! 🙂 The nuts are called 'threaded inserts'.
Leon van den Beukel I really need those. Thank you, have a nice weekend.
just curious, with PLA aren't you worried at all about part warping due to heat? Also nice printer, I have one too :D
this is great!
The design is great. How fast is your fastest feed rate? I've built a CNC router ,but the mistake I made was that I didn't know how slow my maximum feed rate was going to be . Well it turns out my maximum feed and rapid is only 18 inches per minute. If I make another one I'll be checking into that aspect.
Hi Carl, I don't know how fast it get go yet. Today I've made a wooden box with 4mm plywood with these settings: 3mm bit, feedrate 762mm/min, plunge rate 228mm/min, depth per pass: 1mm. I think it can go faster but haven't tried that yet. You can check the result on my Instagram account.
Can I suggest Igus zero backlash nuts? Tried some and they would probably work great on this.
how do we do if we do not have a 3D printer to create the fixing part
thank you
1.Did you use heated bed to print pla . 2 what adhesion did you use to stick pal so well on bed .. Great tutorial and dedication dude..
Hi Benny, I use gluestick and a glass plate. Yes, it's a heated bed. Thanks.
Top, echt tolle Arbeit 👍👍👍👍
Thanks 😃
Daar zit denk werk in! Mooi project!
Dankje :)
great work :o
I love It!
Good job sir
very good very much like it
Good job!
Thanks 😊
Very cool
You are the best
comment on fait si on n'a pas une imprimante 3D pour creer la parties de fixation
merci
What slicer do you use or were those custom molded support in your files?
For your 3D printer and your CNC software
Hi Jimmy, I use Cura.
Subscribed just because of this video
Nice!
How's come you would not reccomend this? I was all excited. The one stepper motor can not be found at a low price, can a diffeent one be used?
What tool is used for the engraver?
thanks
I want to make it more accurate. The steppers are interchangeable, I just didn't had 4 of the same and later bought another one that is of a different type. The tool is a 500 watt Makita router.
WOW, It sure looked accurate to me. Thanks for the info. I sure would love to build this some day when I get my own place.
Thank you...
Nice. I build the MPCNC. But eventually I will try out this CNC. Btw. I have the same router ;)
Awesome :)
Good job :)
watched it well.
I have a question
What is a cam program?
Ik mostly use Fusion 360 and Easel by Inventables
Sir can b this machine use to cut brass plate ?
Great work! What the screw you are using in 10:38?
M6 insert nut
Im completely new to cnc but im thinking about to make a cnc machine (or a (2d) printer) by my own because they are so expensive :P what did this machine (except the drill or whatever it is called in english) cost for you and what did the drill cost?
I'll update the GitHub page soon with a part list and cost estimation. The router cost about 60 euro.
Hi, I've updated the GitHub page with a link to a Google Sheet cost estimation.
Please make a video on cnc calibration
Hi what motor did you use im looking to make an inexpensive cnc
Nema17
Hi, great job! What is the router model? Makita M3700?
Thanks! Yes it is a Makita M3700.
Why you decide to use 42BYGHW811 for X-axis motor?
can it be replaced by 17HS8401 or 17HS8402 or any other? what part of its specs is important for x-axis?
The motors are compatible
Hi, I am well impressed and will seriously consider making one of these. if you do any updates or have a link to the .stl files for this. It would be greatly appreciated
Regards
Hi, please check the GitHub link in the description (and read the warning 😉).
Probably if you use stronger frame and stepper motors it could work in some soft metals like aluminium.
Hi i love your work i wanted know what language you used to code for the software?
Is it possible to have pdf of all those designed plastic parts please?
Please check my newer design and link to stl files in description: th-cam.com/video/24RslguGy58/w-d-xo.html
excellence
perfect
👏👍 Good job
what are the names of the plastics parts in white?
What price the 4×6 printer by make
Boa tarde, muito bem detalhado, a parte mecanica eu faço,Tem uma pessoa que tem impressora 3D mas para imprimir precisa o desenho salvo em STL ou o G code. Encontro algum tutorial para aprender usar?
Hi Raul, sorry can you ask in English? Google translate does not translate it well I think (Portugese?) :)
Where do you learn that?
That was great..... :)
Thanks Tom
Leon van den Beukel you are so welcome. You know your stuff. I would love to make Something with you someday