Do a compression test on all the cylinders. If it's low (50-100), then put oil on top the piston through the plug hole. Run another compression test with the added oil. If the compression raises, you'll know your rings are either stuck or need replaced.
I absolutely love watching your videos Ace! I was stoked to see this one released, as I've been looking forward to your next release for the past couple of weeks. Keep up the excellent work!
Very easy,simple engines to work on due to them being a pushrod design vs OHC. I would start with checking for engine codes. That generation of 700/800 vibrate ALOT & are known breaking wires to various sensors. They won’t look broken on the outside but the tiny copper strands will be inside. The TBAP sensor located in the intake pipe between the air box & throttle body is very problematic. Like I said check for engine codes on the speedometer display. To check codes turn the key on & off 3 times leaving the key on after the 3rd cycle. Trouble codes are listed as a 2 digit number
I was worried your strap job would do more damage than it already had. I have the same bike. 2012. Still runs like a top and hauls plenty of deer each year. Had to replace the brake safety switch last year. Wouldn’t turn over w brake pressed. But that’s a cheap fix. Bearings are a pretty regular issue w these too. Seems like you got a good deal assuming a cylinder isn’t screwed.
Ace, I hope the very first thing you did was check the oil level! I would disconnect one spark plug at a time to confirm both cylinders are firing. Next, for sure, look up valve clearance specs and adjust valves. No doubt they aren’t factory anymore. Also confirm exhaust isn’t blocked in any way - exhaust ports may be partially blocked due to engine running rich for a while. Confirm fuel pump is producing adequate flow of fuel. I didn’t see you check spark plug gaps before installing. Even NGK are known for having incorrect gap sometimes.
Good looking unit. Check valve clearance, fuel filter, compression check and make sure exhaust is not plugged up. Good luck!
I disagree about checking compression. It’s firing so we already know it has compression.
@@Rein_Ciarfella Is it firing good on both cylinders?
@@coaterdave
Answered in another comment. Disconnecting one spark plug after another while the engine is running answers that question.
Do a compression test on all the cylinders. If it's low (50-100), then put oil on top the piston through the plug hole. Run another compression test with the added oil. If the compression raises, you'll know your rings are either stuck or need replaced.
I absolutely love watching your videos Ace! I was stoked to see this one released, as I've been looking forward to your next release for the past couple of weeks. Keep up the excellent work!
Nice find. Good luck in the restoration
"I didn't drink any gas.. ON THIS ONE".. got me
Very easy,simple engines to work on due to them being a pushrod design vs OHC. I would start with checking for engine codes. That generation of 700/800 vibrate ALOT & are known breaking wires to various sensors. They won’t look broken on the outside but the tiny copper strands will be inside. The TBAP sensor located in the intake pipe between the air box & throttle body is very problematic. Like I said check for engine codes on the speedometer display. To check codes turn the key on & off 3 times leaving the key on after the 3rd cycle. Trouble codes are listed as a 2 digit number
Wow - good to know! Thx!
Check the basics. Compression, valve clearance, not sure the engine design but ignition coil gap.
That thing had a very rough life! Better check a lot of things!
cool find!
I was worried your strap job would do more damage than it already had. I have the same bike. 2012. Still runs like a top and hauls plenty of deer each year. Had to replace the brake safety switch last year. Wouldn’t turn over w brake pressed. But that’s a cheap fix. Bearings are a pretty regular issue w these too. Seems like you got a good deal assuming a cylinder isn’t screwed.
Ace, I hope the very first thing you did was check the oil level!
I would disconnect one spark plug at a time to confirm both cylinders are firing. Next, for sure, look up valve clearance specs and adjust valves. No doubt they aren’t factory anymore.
Also confirm exhaust isn’t blocked in any way - exhaust ports may be partially blocked due to engine running rich for a while.
Confirm fuel pump is producing adequate flow of fuel.
I didn’t see you check spark plug gaps before installing. Even NGK are known for having incorrect gap sometimes.
sounds like better fix your diff bearing before more projects not being disrespectfull but cheaper now than later