Clint.....thanks so much. I am 64, retired Navy....my wife “allowed me” something I had wanted for a long long time....a custom dedicated bikepacking rig.....to get me into backcountry fly fishing locations. So I built up a titanium Chumba Stella. All of my research didn’t prepare me for how the “technology” of bicycling has changed. And my Fox 32 fork is a perfect example....I picked it based on a short test drive on a friend’s mountain bike. Your videos on this fork are outstanding.....Bravo-Zulu on an educational and timely (for me!!) video!
I've been watching so many videos trying to figure out what a damper does, or more accurately, how the controls work for it, and when to use them. This is the first one that helped clarify - even though I'm running a rock shox SiD
It has taken me such a long time to get my head around this topic. I have the fox 36 and Float x2. Both have HSC and LSC and understanding how this works has been a bit of a mystery until this video. I may have misunderstood but I think I heard you say something to the effect of rebound being a bit of a "set and forget" scenario. That makes this a way easier process if I don't have to adjust rebound every time I adjust compression damping. You have helped me understand what LSC and HSC do and I have set my shocks and forks accordingly. Can't wait to feel it out on the trail. Thanks for a great video
For most people, rebound settings are indeed set for your weight and pressure and then forget it. However for people who do Enduro and downhill racing, they may speed up or slow down the rebound depending on the type of course. But for the every day rider after you get it set you’re pretty much done.
Thank you so much, I was looking for a very clear explanations like yours for a long time, No one could explain it clearly just like you. Great video, Thanks a lot.
Nice explanations. I have never given it a thought that the low speed compression is not a set and forget matter. I have never adjusted mine on the fly, But will try it out now, Thanks ! Although my fork and damper is also from FOX, they don´t have the 3 modes of lock/unlock, but only fully locked or fully open via knob on handlebar.
Hi Clint, have you ever found yourself adding some air pressure to the fork without any impact on its SAG? I'm testing a couple of NEW forks and dampers and it looks like the SAG doesn't always change so quickly with the air pressure increasing. I have the suspension fully opened. Would you say the models I have can just be sticky as new and never ridden?
+ShaiBike the fork seals on new bikes need to be broken in. That's why I recommend cycling the fork a few times before setting the O-ring to check your sag. That's probably what is happening. The fork seals are just sticky.
Thank you so much. I had my sag set right front and rear, but the shocks still felt too stiff and unresponsive. I dialed back the compression on the open setting, and now it just feels soooo plush. Thanks again!!
Thanks for a super nice video! I really struggle to understand the difference in using the lever to make the suspension mor firm or add more air pressure e.g. if i set correct sag in “open” mode, what would be the difference in turning the lever towards firm or add more air pressure? Thanks!
Air pressure determines how much the suspension can move. The blue knob is a compression lever which determines the forces it takes to get the suspension to start moving. I know that may not sound super clear, but my recommendation is to get the SAG right and then fine-tune the feel with the blue knob. Proper sag also Helps with the negative travel. That is, helping the wheels stay connected to the ground, when there are divots or G-outs in the ground.
@@ClintGibbs thank you for the answer! I’ll do as you recommend. But bringing another dimension into this; if I adjust air pressure to get correct sag but I feel the suspension is too soft and bottoms our, should I then use the lever to make it more firm or add a volume spacer? My own guess would be if it is too soft but not bottom out = use lever. If too soft and bottom out = volume spacer and perhaps lever too if still too plush. 🤔
+michael streed as long as you have your sag setup correctly then it's just a matter of feel. That is, if the rear shock feels too harsh in relation to the front then just add more sag.
Clint, I just rebuilt my lowers on Fox 34 FIT4. I also have a newer Fox 34 Grip. The problem I’m having is getting the sag set up without using more then the recommended air per rider weight. Fox recommends only 120 psi max, I’m 180ish pounds and the amount of air I put in is 118 psi. The real issue is w/o riding and during my mounting the fork used 90% of the travel full open or mode way, can you explain, UGH!!
Louis Nocki Never seen that issue so it’s hard to say without looking at it in person. Are you sure your shock pump gauge is accurate? You may want to try another pump just to make sure
I have some "serious" first world problem with my rear Fox Float performance RP2 Boost Valve shock, locking to free pedal has no effect :( I just bought this bike second hand, this is my first rear suspension... can this be solved easily, or this option is probably out for me? Thank you.
I wonder if those volume spacers fit the older Fox CTD forks? I have a 2014 32mm 120mm travel factory FIT CTD fork and actually added some float fluid into the air chamber to make it more progressive, those spacers seem like a smarter option but nowhere do I see them listed for my fork, do you know possibly offhand if there is a solution for the old Fox 32 mm stanchion forks? Also another thing to note for readers is at least on my fork the 2nd adjustment affects the middle position (trail) on the older forks and not the fully open setting. I checked out the trails too at Croom you reviewed awhile back, tons of fun, just wish the entire thing was like the challenging sections. Interesting theme they have going with liquor and underwear along the trails. I would avoid that though again after a rain, those mining pit sections were very very slick today.
I have the 38s with fit 4 damper never fully lock them out as they do get stuck in lockout if the blow off shims don't trigger when hit something hard, could be pot hole or drop happens to all the fit 4s not happened to me yet as dont use it. I was warned about it and seen it on comments on fox fit 4 damper video aswell, hsc is bottom out control if you have an x2 damper as for our fit4 dampers you forgot rebound if your over 200pbs forget fox chart it has me at 1 click on that im at 10 on my actual fork
Thank you for this video. I'm a newb rider and have replaced the original RS Sektor gold 2017 fox 36 on my 2015 Santa Cruz 5010. The rear has an old(2014-2015) fox evolution ctd shock. After replacing the fork the rear shock seems inadequate now. Do you have a good suggestion in the Fox family to match the fork?
hey Clint....Did you try add some tokens on Fox turning more progressive and use less Air? I recko it can work better in LCS and still firm for HCS. What do you think?
Hey Clint I was wondering if you could give me some information on how to screw a rear derailleur in? I don't really know how to do it and I don't want to ruin the thread.
+Henris Ivaskevicius just a 5mm Allen wrench and make sure it's rotated back enough so that you clear the stop on the hanger. Apply a little grease on the threads before doing it. Doesn't need to be crazy tight.
Hey Clint, is achieving full travel the ultimate goal if one rides the same trails all of the time learning to and or first setting up the suspension? I have the same fork as in the video, what's a good reference point to start in when messing with the compression dial? Fully open, mid or firmest setting? As with rebound, Fox's recommended rebound setting is from fully closed contrary to your previous guide on how to set up the suspension (and i'd agree with you btw) so wondering what's worked best for you when dialing in the compression dial. Cheers on another great video!
+Miguel Navarro I leave my compression dial in the middle setting for most of my riding because it's up-and-down. I would open up the compression damping knob on a long downhill. The only time I lock it out is riding on the road or if I were on a long fire Road climb.
What about the dial for stiffening up the beginning of the stroke (black dial). I understand it's subjective, but first fork with it and I'm all ears on any pointers. Thanks in advance
Good day, I'm having trouble with a dual air rock shox. The negative camber has a very low volume, so when I unscrew the pump the air that escapes f..s the tune up. Do you have an advice to tune this kind of fork?
Start with reducing low speed compression damping, which would mean, turning the dial all the way counterclockwise. You can also remove volume spacers inside the fork.
So am I suppose to get off my bike everytime I go uphill or downhill and make all these adjustments because the trails I ride have uphill, downhill, roots, and ruts. I know they make remote lockouts but may be a little spendy.
For XC type ridiing I leave my compression settings in the middle. Riding in the mountains I will leave it in the middle for climbing and then open them up for descending. It's really not a big deal to just reach down and flip the lever on your shock and then on your fork before you start your descent.
is it possible that some fox forks (older ones) have not the possibility to change the progression by adding more volume spacers? I have a 34 of 2013 and I can't find anything on the internet regarding this fork, even on fox website
WHAT??? You ADD compression for harder hits? I have found the exact opposite. Maybe if the fork psi is low, yes, you don't want to bottom out and so I guess you could add compression to avoid too much travel. The compression on my XC bike is extremely sensitive, and I often ride it completely locked out. I've even added 15 more psi for my weight to 65 total to lessen the travel so I can actually use the max compression setting before lockout. It's actually too squishy even for light trail riding, so I often keep it locked. I usually don't set the compression below max, or one click away from lockout. Only if the trail is steep and chunky do I lower the compression down, and it's rarely completely open. I guess it really is subjective. But it does for sure feel better more compressed and my downhill times are in general faster if it's more compressed. Downhill being a 'normal' trail or technical XC usually between a 3-8% decline, 9%+ would be more a more open setting. After using a Suntour fork (with no compression option) for a couple of years, I have found compression with my Manitou Machete and Mattoc to be by far the most useful variable on a hardtail besides tire choice, even if the compression is usually not 'varied' if you get my point.
Low speed adjustment should be called initial adjustment . Every times a shock or fork go into high speed, it has to pass thru what they call the low speed. Furthermore the low speed adjustments do affect the high speed dampening quite a bit. Try it, crank the low speed compression to the max and you will see your forks will feel stiffer everywhere.
Actually it's the other way round, the low speed does offset damping a bit, but it's the high speed compression that limits its range, see the high speed as a valve that opens when enough force is applied and the low speed as a bypass around that valve, which varies in size.
I have the same fork. Due to the pandemic I left the bike along for about 6 month. I went for a ride this week and when trying to move the micro adjustment, it is not moving (does not allow for the usual clicks to adjust.) Any idea how to make it work again?
+scott wilson on the fork? It can bob while you're out of the saddle but the payoff is a more supple and compliant ride on the trail. If It moves too much while you're riding you can tune it with a little bit more air pressure and add a volume spacer. Also slowing down the rebound will help.
Clint Gibbs yes sorry on the fork. mine are same forks as yours . I find my rear shock has a great platform not alot of Bob so I find when standing the front bobs alot . I'll try your method thanks
Lyrik Select + has low speed compression adjustment via the dial on the top of the right fork leg. If it's like the RC2 damper there will be 18 clicks. You can think of low speed compression damping being used to control the compression of the fork due to input from the rider, such as weight transfer when under brakes, or climbing a steep hill, even pushing into the bike in corners and pumping in flowy terrain. The more damping you add, the more force is needed to compress the fork. There is no bypass as such so the low speed compression will have some effect on high speed hits but it will be most noticeable on smaller bumps and slower shock speeds.
the fit4 in medium setting is actually the open setting in the 22 clicks. I usually ride the medium or the open setting in the 12 clicks. The fox 34 is not a DH fork, but i find it more good on the medium setting, so you don't bottom out the fork, even with the big volume spacer (i have the one from Push Industries, because my fork is a 34 from 2012 with the fit4 upgrade, and push industries volume spacers)
If it were me I would just adjust it depending on the terrain. I've never owned a pike so I don't know how many compression settings you have on that one.
لو انت من مصر ففي الغالب الشوكة اللي معاك سسته مش ضغط هواء زي اللي في الفيديو ده بتاعتك اسمها coil fork وكتير من المحترفين بيفضلوها عن الهواء وهتلاقي لها كذا فيديو ع اليوتيوب
Hi Clint, good day Clint, what percentage sag would you recommend for a rockshox sid rlc 2018 with charger damper 80mm travel xc race setup? thanks in advance.
stupid bike manuals they never bring these instructions, i was given something rock shox on the bike manual, but it was only safety measures no setup no shit.
Absolutely fantastic video - still relevant in 2022.
Clint.....thanks so much. I am 64, retired Navy....my wife “allowed me” something I had wanted for a long long time....a custom dedicated bikepacking rig.....to get me into backcountry fly fishing locations. So I built up a titanium Chumba Stella. All of my research didn’t prepare me for how the “technology” of bicycling has changed. And my Fox 32 fork is a perfect example....I picked it based on a short test drive on a friend’s mountain bike. Your videos on this fork are outstanding.....Bravo-Zulu on an educational and timely (for me!!) video!
I've been watching so many videos trying to figure out what a damper does, or more accurately, how the controls work for it, and when to use them. This is the first one that helped clarify - even though I'm running a rock shox SiD
It has taken me such a long time to get my head around this topic. I have the fox 36 and Float x2. Both have HSC and LSC and understanding how this works has been a bit of a mystery until this video. I may have misunderstood but I think I heard you say something to the effect of rebound being a bit of a "set and forget" scenario. That makes this a way easier process if I don't have to adjust rebound every time I adjust compression damping. You have helped me understand what LSC and HSC do and I have set my shocks and forks accordingly. Can't wait to feel it out on the trail. Thanks for a great video
For most people, rebound settings are indeed set for your weight and pressure and then forget it. However for people who do Enduro and downhill racing, they may speed up or slow down the rebound depending on the type of course. But for the every day rider after you get it set you’re pretty much done.
Great video. Cleared things up for me being new to having a modern shock.
Well done sir, your videos are clear and informative.
Finally someone who explained this well. Thank you.
Thank you for starting with clarifying how compression is something to be changed during a ride
Thank you so much, I was looking for a very clear explanations like yours for a long time, No one could explain it clearly just like you. Great video, Thanks a lot.
Excellent explanation of how all these settings work in harmony. Thanks for posting!
Nice explanations. I have never given it a thought that the low speed compression is not a set and forget matter. I have never adjusted mine on the fly, But will try it out now, Thanks ! Although my fork and damper is also from FOX, they don´t have the 3 modes of lock/unlock, but only fully locked or fully open via knob on handlebar.
Hi Clint, have you ever found yourself adding some air pressure to the fork without any impact on its SAG? I'm testing a couple of NEW forks and dampers and it looks like the SAG doesn't always change so quickly with the air pressure increasing. I have the suspension fully opened. Would you say the models I have can just be sticky as new and never ridden?
+ShaiBike the fork seals on new bikes need to be broken in. That's why I recommend cycling the fork a few times before setting the O-ring to check your sag. That's probably what is happening. The fork seals are just sticky.
Thank you so much. I had my sag set right front and rear, but the shocks still felt too stiff and unresponsive. I dialed back the compression on the open setting, and now it just feels soooo plush. Thanks again!!
Fantastic video, I will be watching several times more taking notes so I can make a little guide.
I do the same thing, he is great
good day clint..pls do make a video on how to tune up? i like how you explain because it's very detailed.. thanks
+danielrobert baui good topic...Will try to do that soon.
Yes please, so you did it?
Fantastic video, thank you for explaining it so simply! Can’t wait to have a go at this now👍🏻
Always coming back to your videos, thanks
Thanks for a super nice video! I really struggle to understand the difference in using the lever to make the suspension mor firm or add more air pressure e.g. if i set correct sag in “open” mode, what would be the difference in turning the lever towards firm or add more air pressure? Thanks!
Air pressure determines how much the suspension can move. The blue knob is a compression lever which determines the forces it takes to get the suspension to start moving. I know that may not sound super clear, but my recommendation is to get the SAG right and then fine-tune the feel with the blue knob. Proper sag also Helps with the negative travel. That is, helping the wheels stay connected to the ground, when there are divots or G-outs in the ground.
@@ClintGibbs thank you for the answer! I’ll do as you recommend. But bringing another dimension into this; if I adjust air pressure to get correct sag but I feel the suspension is too soft and bottoms our, should I then use the lever to make it more firm or add a volume spacer? My own guess would be if it is too soft but not bottom out = use lever. If too soft and bottom out = volume spacer and perhaps lever too if still too plush. 🤔
@@davidalberius6107 correct. If you have the SAG set right, and it feels too soft, you need to add a volume spacer or two.
@@ClintGibbs thanks a lot!
Well explained, just got an airfork (sadly an xcr air from suntour) but this helped tremendously with the new two adjustments I just got.
One of the better explanations I’ve seen. Thanks. How about balance adjustments in relation to front to back?
+michael streed as long as you have your sag setup correctly then it's just a matter of feel. That is, if the rear shock feels too harsh in relation to the front then just add more sag.
Very informative as I’ve been playing with my compression and trying to understand how it works and setting it up.
👍
Clint, I just rebuilt my lowers on Fox 34 FIT4. I also have a newer Fox 34 Grip. The problem I’m having is getting the sag set up without using more then the recommended air per rider weight. Fox recommends only 120 psi max, I’m 180ish pounds and the amount of air I put in is 118 psi. The real issue is w/o riding and during my mounting the fork used 90% of the travel full open or mode way, can you explain, UGH!!
Louis Nocki Never seen that issue so it’s hard to say without looking at it in person. Are you sure your shock pump gauge is accurate? You may want to try another pump just to make sure
@@JesusRescuesUs3-16 do you use 90% of the travel throughout your whole ride?
6fxd, yes. Why do you ask
Hi do you have a video how to do the maintenance to this suspension
th-cam.com/video/quxtSTFwTGc/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/i8bJi2lwEf8/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/rd1ToPBbtto/w-d-xo.html
excellent! very clear! Thanks Clint and will watch more of your videos.
I have some "serious" first world problem with my rear Fox Float performance RP2 Boost Valve shock, locking to free pedal has no effect :( I just bought this bike second hand, this is my first rear suspension... can this be solved easily, or this option is probably out for me? Thank you.
I wonder if those volume spacers fit the older Fox CTD forks? I have a 2014 32mm 120mm travel factory FIT CTD fork and actually added some float fluid into the air chamber to make it more progressive, those spacers seem like a smarter option but nowhere do I see them listed for my fork, do you know possibly offhand if there is a solution for the old Fox 32 mm stanchion forks? Also another thing to note for readers is at least on my fork the 2nd adjustment affects the middle position (trail) on the older forks and not the fully open setting. I checked out the trails too at Croom you reviewed awhile back, tons of fun, just wish the entire thing was like the challenging sections. Interesting theme they have going with liquor and underwear along the trails. I would avoid that though again after a rain, those mining pit sections were very very slick today.
I'm wonder the same, do you ever found those spacers?
Very well explained, thank you for the advice
Thank you Clint! This is what I, beginer, needed info.
I have the 38s with fit 4 damper never fully lock them out as they do get stuck in lockout if the blow off shims don't trigger when hit something hard, could be pot hole or drop happens to all the fit 4s not happened to me yet as dont use it. I was warned about it and seen it on comments on fox fit 4 damper video aswell, hsc is bottom out control if you have an x2 damper as for our fit4 dampers you forgot rebound if your over 200pbs forget fox chart it has me at 1 click on that im at 10 on my actual fork
Great job Clint, thanks for sharing!
I have the exact same fork and damper. For me I dont really feel a big change when changing the open setting. Is it that subtle?
It is subtle, but there is a difference in small bump sensitivity
Is sag supposed to change depending on compression damping? Some say that on the firmest damping setting, sag should be less than on the softest.
Thank you for this video. I'm a newb rider and have replaced the original RS Sektor gold 2017 fox 36 on my 2015 Santa Cruz 5010. The rear has an old(2014-2015) fox evolution ctd shock. After replacing the fork the rear shock seems inadequate now. Do you have a good suggestion in the Fox family to match the fork?
hey Clint....Did you try add some tokens on Fox turning more progressive and use less Air?
I recko it can work better in LCS and still firm for HCS.
What do you think?
Hey Clint I was wondering if you could give me some information on how to screw a rear derailleur in? I don't really know how to do it and I don't want to ruin the thread.
+Henris Ivaskevicius just a 5mm Allen wrench and make sure it's rotated back enough so that you clear the stop on the hanger. Apply a little grease on the threads before doing it. Doesn't need to be crazy tight.
Clint Gibbs So if I rotate almost all the way back I should be good to go?
Yes. Just keep an eye on the derailleur and make sure it goes flush against the derailleur hanger.
Hey Clint, is achieving full travel the ultimate goal if one rides the same trails all of the time learning to and or first setting up the suspension? I have the same fork as in the video, what's a good reference point to start in when messing with the compression dial? Fully open, mid or firmest setting? As with rebound, Fox's recommended rebound setting is from fully closed contrary to your previous guide on how to set up the suspension (and i'd agree with you btw) so wondering what's worked best for you when dialing in the compression dial. Cheers on another great video!
+Miguel Navarro I leave my compression dial in the middle setting for most of my riding because it's up-and-down. I would open up the compression damping knob on a long downhill. The only time I lock it out is riding on the road or if I were on a long fire Road climb.
What about the dial for stiffening up the beginning of the stroke (black dial). I understand it's subjective, but first fork with it and I'm all ears on any pointers. Thanks in advance
Totally a matter of preference. I like leaving it pretty open as in pretty far counterclockwise so the open setting will be very plush on a downhill.
Good day, I'm having trouble with a dual air rock shox. The negative camber has a very low volume, so when I unscrew the pump the air that escapes f..s the tune up. Do you have an advice to tune this kind of fork?
Is there a way to adjust the sensitivity of this with small bumps or small rocky trails?
Start with reducing low speed compression damping, which would mean, turning the dial all the way counterclockwise. You can also remove volume spacers inside the fork.
@ClintGibbs thanks for the reply, I'll try taking out 1 volume spacer and see how it goes.
@mjojrjr6231 sounds good. Let me know how it works for you
@@ClintGibbs will do, you explained this so well. Seen this long time ago and keeps coming back everytime I need to refresh how to set Fit4 Fox Fork.
Thanks for this. Helped me a lot👍🏽
really excellent explanation m8
Good video. What percentage sag would you recommend for a 120mm trail bike?
+Daniel Greening start with 15%
Thanks Clint, my pump gauge is bad, LOL. Sometimes the obvious is the issue.
So am I suppose to get off my bike everytime I go uphill or downhill and make all these adjustments because the trails I ride have uphill, downhill, roots, and ruts. I know they make remote lockouts but may be a little spendy.
For XC type ridiing I leave my compression settings in the middle. Riding in the mountains I will leave it in the middle for climbing and then open them up for descending. It's really not a big deal to just reach down and flip the lever on your shock and then on your fork before you start your descent.
Perfect explanation sir🤗
is it possible that some fox forks (older ones) have not the possibility to change the progression by adding more volume spacers? I have a 34 of 2013 and I can't find anything on the internet regarding this fork, even on fox website
+MiKeZee yes, that's a newer feature on Fox forks.
damn.. Thank you very much
hey man!
i know you're riding the valors, but what are you're thoughts about them vs. the new crest mk3?
Hey Clint. How are you? Not visited your channel in a while. Hope you're well
Excellent - Thank you!
WHAT??? You ADD compression for harder hits? I have found the exact opposite. Maybe if the fork psi is low, yes, you don't want to bottom out and so I guess you could add compression to avoid too much travel. The compression on my XC bike is extremely sensitive, and I often ride it completely locked out. I've even added 15 more psi for my weight to 65 total to lessen the travel so I can actually use the max compression setting before lockout. It's actually too squishy even for light trail riding, so I often keep it locked. I usually don't set the compression below max, or one click away from lockout. Only if the trail is steep and chunky do I lower the compression down, and it's rarely completely open. I guess it really is subjective. But it does for sure feel better more compressed and my downhill times are in general faster if it's more compressed. Downhill being a 'normal' trail or technical XC usually between a 3-8% decline, 9%+ would be more a more open setting. After using a Suntour fork (with no compression option) for a couple of years, I have found compression with my Manitou Machete and Mattoc to be by far the most useful variable on a hardtail besides tire choice, even if the compression is usually not 'varied' if you get my point.
Low speed adjustment should be called initial adjustment . Every times a shock or fork go into high speed, it has to pass thru what they call the low speed. Furthermore the low speed adjustments do affect the high speed dampening quite a bit. Try it, crank the low speed compression to the max and you will see your forks will feel stiffer everywhere.
Actually it's the other way round, the low speed does offset damping a bit, but it's the high speed compression that limits its range, see the high speed as a valve that opens when enough force is applied and the low speed as a bypass around that valve, which varies in size.
I adjusted my compression for a local pump track and when i opened it back up, it stayed locked out?? Does anyone have any tips on what i should do?
I have the same fork. Due to the pandemic I left the bike along for about 6 month. I went for a ride this week and when trying to move the micro adjustment, it is not moving (does not allow for the usual clicks to adjust.) Any idea how to make it work again?
For now I would just ride it and let the oil circulate around. Maybe it will loosen up.
Thank you for the explanation..
hi don't you find the M setting on the fox to light ?
+scott wilson on the fork? It can bob while you're out of the saddle but the payoff is a more supple and compliant ride on the trail. If It moves too much while you're riding you can tune it with a little bit more air pressure and add a volume spacer. Also slowing down the rebound will help.
Clint Gibbs yes sorry on the fork. mine are same forks as yours . I find my rear shock has a great platform not alot of Bob so I find when standing the front bobs alot . I'll try your method thanks
i have a remedy 8 with a lyrick select plus, and i dont understand the charger compression can you help?
Lyrik Select + has low speed compression adjustment via the dial on the top of the right fork leg. If it's like the
RC2 damper there will be 18 clicks. You can think of low speed compression damping being used to control the compression of the fork due to input from the rider, such as weight transfer when under brakes, or climbing a steep hill, even pushing into the bike in corners and pumping in flowy terrain. The more damping you add, the more force is needed to compress the fork. There is no bypass as such so the low speed compression will have some effect on high speed hits but it will be most noticeable on smaller bumps and slower shock speeds.
the fit4 in medium setting is actually the open setting in the 22 clicks. I usually ride the medium or the open setting in the 12 clicks. The fox 34 is not a DH fork, but i find it more good on the medium setting, so you don't bottom out the fork, even with the big volume spacer (i have the one from Push Industries, because my fork is a 34 from 2012 with the fit4 upgrade, and push industries volume spacers)
What if I’m living in 2010 and only have one compression knob on my pike? Set it in the middle and forget?
If it were me I would just adjust it depending on the terrain. I've never owned a pike so I don't know how many compression settings you have on that one.
Good explanations, thank you !
very usful but i want to know ! what if i do not have those blue pieaces in th upper of my forg
لو انت من مصر ففي الغالب الشوكة اللي معاك سسته مش ضغط هواء زي اللي في الفيديو ده
بتاعتك اسمها coil fork
وكتير من المحترفين بيفضلوها عن الهواء وهتلاقي لها كذا فيديو ع اليوتيوب
Hi Clint being a bigger guy 17st would it be normal for me to have my Lsc maxed out? As soon as I back it off, I feel the fork dives alot.
+keaty1984 if you're sad get setup correctly then it does sound like you need to run a lot of compression damping.
Thank you!
Thanks.
It helped alot!
The new fox 40 performance elite doesn't have high speed compression, very strange for a f***ing DH fork.
make 1 about Cross country forks..☝🤘
More sag to use less travel??
For the most part, but you have increased negative travel when you run more sag.
very useful
ExceLLenT🌵🌎i didn't even know about the black lil compression😰! Now i know. Thnx I'll Test it out a bit . ....on my bike. 🌎😎🍵🌵
that rear shock you demoed didnt take that curb correctly. it didnt compress and it bounced back you too much. more rebound and less low speed cd.
Hi Clint,
good day Clint, what percentage sag would you recommend for a rockshox sid rlc 2018 with charger damper 80mm travel xc race setup? thanks in advance.
Jet Tabing do you have compression when setting sag
perfect, thank you!!!
thanks,now i understand it
I like your style. Thbs up and sub. Take care
Good video thanks
Do I have it on when setting sag
Shouldn't matter too much. Just open up the lockout lever all the way.
Buen vídeo, el próximo traducido en español jeje
love your comment
Great vid, but please cut those cables down ;)...i feel like your going to get hung up in them.
Get a coil - set it and forget it.
stupid bike manuals they never bring these instructions, i was given something rock shox on the bike manual, but it was only safety measures no setup no shit.
haha