Build plate adhesion is an issue we all suffer with at some point, I think. I saw a video about a year ago, of a guy using this Nano Polymer Adhesive and I picked some up and I never have a problem with my prints sticking anymore. It’s kind of expensive compared to hair spray and glue sticks, about $45 for a small bottle, but the bottle has lasted me over 6 months so far and I still have almost half a bottle left, and it works great! I have to use a large putty knife to get the prints off the bedplate now because they stick so well… Loving your videos! Keep them coming.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video! I've had a great experience with my Kobra 2 Pros and really need something with a larger build volume. I think I'll pick this up!
I have the Kobra 2 Plus. I printed a top mounted spool holder. It does require relocating the run out sensor to the top of the tool head and you have to get an extension wire for the sensor. But it works so much better. Another thing I use is Nano Polymer Adhesive. You will never have adhesion issues . They say you can get about 12 prints from a single application. That’s about right. I use it on all of my printers.
Great info. Ill look in to the spool holder. fortunately I have room above the machine. I have gotten the suggestion about the Nana Polymer Adhesive from some other people in the community, Ill give it a try.
Hello there! Thanks for the tip with the filament placing! I am thinking hard about getting this printer, and it seems it's beginner friendly, as I never had a 3D printer before. I want a big one, as I want to print helmets in one go and whole pieces of armor, like for example a Stormtrooper chest armor, helmet etc. Thanks for the vid! Best wishes to you! CHEERS!
I got mine in August, and have basically stopped using my other printer entirely. I strongly recommend a filament dryer. Especially if you want to use PetG, this printer is extremely PLA friendly. The dryer will solve the spool placement issue without any mods to the printer at all. I have used his Aquanet hairspray tip since I saw this video four months ago and it works every time. Clean the print bed with 90% Isopropyl rubbing alcohol and a paper towel.
I´ve just ordered my Max 2 and coming from one Prusa Mini and my recently sold Raise3d E2 (thank god!) I needed a large format printer. I do NOT need a speedy printer and I value quality over print time any day. So I just loved how you presented your stellar craftmanship AND also did not delve into a two houre tweaking session. I know my printer settings, but I love when my printer delivers right out of the box! Thanks for a great review. Cheers from Norway :)
Thats awesome, i have been doing this for a long time. There are people who love modifying and tweaking their printers, and people who just want to print. I have built several printers, but always fall back to relatively stock printers to just “get it printed”.
Wow! This channel is amazing, I was surprised when I clicked on the video to see you had a little more than 1k subs! You helped me make my decision on upgrading my printer to something better! Thanks you gained a sub from me!
Appreciate it. I am going to start posting some shorts and posting on some other platforms. Im just happy to share what I have learned over the years. Thank you.
thanks for being honest, i am definatly buying it for my new project. The spool i have had that same issue as well on the kobra 2 but most of the time its how the company that made the roll had it rolled onto the spool, so what i did is i cut the tubbing half way of its length away from the alert switch for run out. So when the filmant runs out and goes up the tube its easier to grab and put back through the filament run out detector, honestly once i get this printer i will just put the spool on the top instead of the sides and do some extra modding for the filament run out to be used on top of the printer.
Thats a good idea, i really need to do a few mods to the filament routing. Other than that I have had a very good experience with the printer. I just finished the hardest print I have ever tried (you can see it in the shorts) and the printer was able to get it done.
8:05 That has happened to me too on my recent prints! I thought there was something wrong with the filament! As far as the bed adhesion, I use Duck's blue painters tape. 3M Painters tape works as well on the surface.
honestly I originally thought I was loading the filament wrong, but it has happened on several different rolls of PLA from different manufacturers. Very Frustrating. Painters tape works great too. I think any time you are trying to print very large prints, you just need a little extra holding force.
Thanks for you explanation, I just buy this to be able to make props, when I saw your results gives me more confidence, great props master and great explanation how take some advices from this printer. May the force by with you 🙂
Bought a Kobra 2 Max. Loved it at first. Then the print head crashed into the print bed and destroyed it. The heated bed would not heat up. The hot end was bent back and mostly torn off the supporting structure. No response from Anycubic to many messages from me over a months time. Took the residual junk and recycled it. Bought a Sovol 08 that thankfully still works.
I love my kobra Max 2. After slowing down the print speed to about halfway and a few other tweaks, its prints, good, and most problems are user errors. i just finished a baby deadpool, and it came out great.
@@TheLastLayer111 Bambu Studio has the Kobra Max profile but not the Kobra 2 Max profile, and the sizes are greyed out. It's much better than the Anycubic slicer v 1.0.
@@maxisp1000 I seen it in OrcaSlicer, which is pretty much Bambu, I was going to try it, just haven't gotten around to it yet. Ill give it a go. Thanks
I just use the standard settings that come with the Anycubic slicer. The only setting I will change is the extruder temperature under the Anycubic PLA setting. I set that to match the temp of whichever filament I am using. I Havnt had to change anything else.
I like this video and am considering this printer as an upgrade to my Elegoo Neptune 3max with a .6 nozzle. I will say that I cannot recommend elegoo filament. It constantly binds up due to the winding in the corner of the spool. I can't tell you how frustrating it is to check on a print in the morning to find it paused because it is bound up.
Love the videos as they've been very helpful as I ease into the cosplay space. I was curious, as you've got the full Iron Man behind you in this one, if you might consider a video on how you handle scaling a model to fit or at least check how a model would fit prior to running all those spools of filament through. I've seen a few from other Tubers, but think there is room for improvement on what they do and I do like to compare proven styles. Since your finish videos have really shown a light on better methods, I was hoping you might be able to do the same on sizing (be it a helmet or full body). Thanks and keep putting out these great vids!
thanks for you support. That's a real hard subject to nail down. Short of doing a full body scan (which most people don't have access to), every body is shaped different. I think that's why information is so hard to find on how different builders do it. SaturdayMorningProps has a good video, on scaling the helmets using a file off thingiverse (based on head size). I think this is a good start for helmets (th-cam.com/video/DVJVYGUvSjI/w-d-xo.html) but as for the rest of it, the best thing to do is to take as many measurements as possible and check corresponding dimensions in the armor. There is always going to some trial and error.
@@TheLastLayer111 thanks so much! I've been looking into ways to perhaps use my iPhone to scan. I saw Uncle Jesse do that for his head & helmet print. Tricky, but if we already own the gear, perhaps it can be leveraged. Happy to share if I get the time to figure it out.
The real difference bettween the X1 and the Kobra Max is the size and the price. The X1 has a really small build plate size compared to the K Max and is twice the price.
The AnyCubic is TWICE as fast if your printing big stuff. Heres how: You can do a large print like a full fize helmet of chest plate in 1 print.....The Bambu , you will have to print it in pieces. 2 to 3 prints to get the same project done.
Wow, it’s nice to see you did all these mask and they look pro! As for me with my K2M that has not been the case. I have had it for months now and I only have 50 hrs of print time on it because I have no successful prints except for little trinkets. The bed level is terrible, prints loosen, …, can not get a correct first layer down (will be doing a mod to it in the hopes that that will fix my issue for the bed leveling and then go from there). I am new at 3D printing and I realize that this is not the printer I shouldd have begun with but it’s what I have on my work bunch. Did you have to do any mechanical adjustment to you K2M? I see you are using Anycubic slicer. I am so bummed out with this printer but I am happy for you.
Wow.. sorry to hear that. A few others reached out to me and said something similar. That tells me they may not have the best quality control. As for mine, I didnt do anything, no mods, no adjustments, I literally put it together and started printing. One thing I always do is add some type of adhesion promoter to the bed , typically hairspray or lately Ive been using Nano polymer. In my opinion, this gives you a little “wiggle” room on that first layer. Good luck, let me know how it turns out
I have been using my Kobra 2 Max and even bought a second one because of the amount of large projects I do on a regular basis. My first one I got back in January 2024, and minus a hiccup I had with a hotend, and then replaced it, it prints great. Never an adhesion issue, but I use Orca Slicer with a very small brim(2mm) and a very dialed in Z offset( which took some time learning...lol). My second printer I bought for $175 on Marketplace, and it had only 9 hrs printing time, but huge shifting issues. Took a lot of time and investigation, but I think I have tuned it in also finally. Love these beasts! Speaking of I love your Predator face it's amazing! Where'd you get that file?
So glad to see someone else not shaming the aqua net. Is it a crutch? Maybe. Does it save me losing 800g of filament when something lets go at 90%? YUP. I truly feel like a lot of people REALLY over complicate their printing lives just to have something to talk about on the forums.
I’ve been using aqua net on my Ender 5+ since I got it. Yes it works without it but honestly not as well. School glue sticks are too clumpy. Aquanet works 10000%
@@TheLastLayer111 I ran a few prints in PLA, works exactly like you have said. My problem is now the supports for helmets. Used the default and it used an entire spool to print half a mando Helm.
I do not put supports under the dome any more. I used to, but I stopped doing it because of how much filament was used. I also pretty much switched to "tree/organic" supports, that saves a bunch of filament too. I am putting some new videos together about setting up the print orientation and slicing. But in the mean time there are quite a few videos on people printing helmets without the dome supports. the inside looks bad, but you cannot tell on the outside, and if you are putting padding in it, most people probably wouldn't care anyways. I would say, give that a try.
@@TheLastLayer111 Circling back to this comment chain. I got a Filament dryer, and use it as my spool feed. It helps with the Petg, makes it printable, it also solves the uncoiling issue of the spool placement quite nicely
Honestly couldn't say, I never used the Elegoo Neptune 4 max. Would love to know other peoples thoughts, If someone wants to leave them in the comments
Just got mine up and running today. After printing one of my own projects the head unit doesn't not go to the "home" location it just sits on top of the print. Why?
@@schwamieboy1 The slicers will only write the Gcode for the object being printed. In order for the printer to execute a command after the the actual print is done, It will require a Machine End Code script to be written in to the slicer under the Machine Settings section. If you want to test if this is the issue. Try printing something small like a benchy, using the Anycubic factory slicer and see if that works.
Yes, I use hair spray or adhesion promoter on all my beds, including on my bambu printer. For me its not worth the potential of losing a print 3/4 of the way through. A subscriber mentioned to me to try nano polymer adhesive. I did and it worked very well, better than hair spray. Its a little pricy, but you dont need much and can print multiple times without re-applying. I have not had any problems or had any bed adhesion issues since i tried it.
You seem like a guy that really knows what he is doing, and I have a question. My son and I invested in an AnyCubic Kobra Max 2 and have had a number of issues. We seem to think the hot end isn't good enough to do what we what to do which is make Football Helmets. Have you upgraded the hot end for your machine and if so, what have you done?
I have not. My machine is 100% factory. If you would like, my email is listed in the channel description. Feel free to reach out. And I can see what I can do to help.
Besides the Anycubic and the Bambu what other printers do you use? How do you decide which part to print on which machine? Do you use a resin printer for smaller and more detailed parts?
I also have a Flsun V400 and a ZeroG Mercury 1.1 (core XY converted Ender 5 plus). I honestly don't use them a whole lot any more. The Bambu printer and Anycubic are what I mostly use. and really for no more reason that, the Bambu is convenient and the Anycubic prints BIG. I just got my first resin printer, the Elegoo Saturn 4 ultra. Its a huge learning curve, but I'm slowly getting there.
No, the only problem I ever had with the printer was a nozzle got plugged, and I had to change it. It was pretty worn out. But other than that, I have not had any other issues. I dont really push the machine though. Im going to do a few videos coming up on the slicer settings and how I set up my prints.
I heard some people had problems, but I honestly didn't change any settings. Guess I got lucky with mine or maybe Anycubic updated the slicer? Who Knows? goes to show how manufacturing varies.
Make sure everything is moving smooth and see if it happening in the same place every time. I had this problem once on a different printer, my steppers kept losing steps because my gantry was binding up. If all that is good, try the same model with a different slicer to see if it corrects the problem.
@@grimtoons6695 If it keeps having problems, then I probably would. Possibly could have something strange going on with one of the steppers. Although its a Pain, thats the good thing about Amazon
Sorry it took so long to get back to you. What slicer are you using? I use the anycubic slicer that came with the printer. I run factory settings, and really just change the temp on the filament section depending on what filament I use. If that doesn’t work, try resetting the slicer or reloading it. Let me know if that helps
Its been a while, I looked around on thingiverse and didn't see the head anymore. There is a head on CG Trader, but you have to pay for the file. I wonder if someone made them take it off? Here is the Mask I used. www.thingiverse.com/thing:2947059
Got this printer while ago, just really confusing my first ever printer and I’m not really satisfied with quality or results/slicers I’ve been using possibly my settings are not good but I’m not sure,
I definitely wouldn’t say that. Printers can sometimes be finicky. I can get the printer to print very good just using stock setting with the Anycubic slicer and PLA. I heard they can be a bit more difficult to get good prints with other types of filament. Quite often that is the difference between a less expensive printer and some of the higher end printers out there. I can try to help, if you want to reach out to me by email. My address is in the channel description.
Great video i do disagree with the spray iv never had a print come of mine, also u can get better print times with other software than anycubics as its not the best i use simplyfy3d v5 and get ghreat bed adheasion also better quality and print time not like the anycubic software thats a but clunky over all though i agree with most things
I agree, the anycubic slicer is certainly not the best. Its really just a lite/clone version of Prusa/Bambu/Orca, etc.. It works good enough with the Kobra2 Max, and honestly not everyone know how to set up a slicer. If you understand the slicer settings, then absolutely, there are better options. For those that want a somewhat Plug-and-play type experience, it is not a bad option. But feel free and try different things, that's part of the fun of learning 3d Printing. Enjoy
That is a great question. Actually I do not. Even though its big, it is relatively thin, and I have never had a problem with it. I have another printer with a very thick MIC 6 bed and I do on that printer every time.
that's an awesome printer. I have a ZeroG Mercury 1.1. Its a great printer, but unfortunately I messed up on a Kipper update and the Canbus MCU stopped communicating. I need to go back and re-configure the whole machine. I've been so busy, I haven't had time to mess with it.
Great honest video. The Kobra 2 Max is one of my main workhorses in my hobby shop and it's one of my best printers. Period.
Build plate adhesion is an issue we all suffer with at some point, I think. I saw a video about a year ago, of a guy using this Nano Polymer Adhesive and I picked some up and I never have a problem with my prints sticking anymore. It’s kind of expensive compared to hair spray and glue sticks, about $45 for a small bottle, but the bottle has lasted me over 6 months so far and I still have almost half a bottle left, and it works great! I have to use a large putty knife to get the prints off the bedplate now because they stick so well… Loving your videos! Keep them coming.
I just ordered a bottle. Looking forward to giving it a try.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video! I've had a great experience with my Kobra 2 Pros and really need something with a larger build volume. I think I'll pick this up!
Awesome, good luck.
I'm with you...Aqua net every print...every time. it works. I never have prints fail due to bed adhesion.
I have the Kobra 2 Plus. I printed a top mounted spool holder. It does require relocating the run out sensor to the top of the tool head and you have to get an extension wire for the sensor. But it works so much better. Another thing I use is Nano Polymer Adhesive. You will never have adhesion issues . They say you can get about 12 prints from a single application. That’s about right. I use it on all of my printers.
Great info. Ill look in to the spool holder. fortunately I have room above the machine.
I have gotten the suggestion about the Nana Polymer Adhesive from some other people in the community, Ill give it a try.
Hello there! Thanks for the tip with the filament placing! I am thinking hard about getting this printer, and it seems it's beginner friendly, as I never had a 3D printer before. I want a big one, as I want to print helmets in one go and whole pieces of armor, like for example a Stormtrooper chest armor, helmet etc. Thanks for the vid! Best wishes to you! CHEERS!
I got mine in August, and have basically stopped using my other printer entirely. I strongly recommend a filament dryer. Especially if you want to use PetG, this printer is extremely PLA friendly. The dryer will solve the spool placement issue without any mods to the printer at all. I have used his Aquanet hairspray tip since I saw this video four months ago and it works every time. Clean the print bed with 90% Isopropyl rubbing alcohol and a paper towel.
I´ve just ordered my Max 2 and coming from one Prusa Mini and my recently sold Raise3d E2 (thank god!) I needed a large format printer. I do NOT need a speedy printer and I value quality over print time any day. So I just loved how you presented your stellar craftmanship AND also did not delve into a two houre tweaking session. I know my printer settings, but I love when my printer delivers right out of the box! Thanks for a great review. Cheers from Norway :)
Thats awesome, i have been doing this for a long time. There are people who love modifying and tweaking their printers, and people who just want to print. I have built several printers, but always fall back to relatively stock printers to just “get it printed”.
The Iron Man is awesome. Your post processing is awesome.
thank you
Wow! This channel is amazing, I was surprised when I clicked on the video to see you had a little more than 1k subs! You helped me make my decision on upgrading my printer to something better! Thanks you gained a sub from me!
Appreciate it. I am going to start posting some shorts and posting on some other platforms.
Im just happy to share what I have learned over the years.
Thank you.
That is some incredible props. Very nice job!
Thank you very much
Well done on the video and excellent sound quality!
Thanks for the review man, great video!
Thank you, appreciate the support.
Thank you for your experience
thanks for being honest, i am definatly buying it for my new project. The spool i have had that same issue as well on the kobra 2 but most of the time its how the company that made the roll had it rolled onto the spool, so what i did is i cut the tubbing half way of its length away from the alert switch for run out. So when the filmant runs out and goes up the tube its easier to grab and put back through the filament run out detector, honestly once i get this printer i will just put the spool on the top instead of the sides and do some extra modding for the filament run out to be used on top of the printer.
Thats a good idea, i really need to do a few mods to the filament routing.
Other than that I have had a very good experience with the printer.
I just finished the hardest print I have ever tried (you can see it in the shorts) and the printer was able to get it done.
8:05 That has happened to me too on my recent prints! I thought there was something wrong with the filament!
As far as the bed adhesion, I use Duck's blue painters tape. 3M Painters tape works as well on the surface.
honestly I originally thought I was loading the filament wrong, but it has happened on several different rolls of PLA from different manufacturers. Very Frustrating.
Painters tape works great too. I think any time you are trying to print very large prints, you just need a little extra holding force.
Thanks for you explanation, I just buy this to be able to make props, when I saw your results gives me more confidence, great props master and great explanation how take some advices from this printer. May the force by with you 🙂
Enjoy, reach out if you have any questions.
Bought a Kobra 2 Max. Loved it at first. Then the print head crashed into the print bed and destroyed it. The heated bed would not heat up. The hot end was bent back and mostly torn off the supporting structure. No response from Anycubic to many messages from me over a months time. Took the residual junk and recycled it. Bought a Sovol 08 that thankfully still works.
Wow, not good to hear. Did you ever figure out what caused it to fail?
@@TheLastLayer111 I never figured it out. Anycubic never responded so they were no help.
@@jimshafer970 that's scary. Keep my fingers crossed with mine. How is that Sovol 08?
@@TheLastLayer111 Sovol 08 printing like a champ.
Awesome video. Thank you!
thank you
Great info, I was looking at this printer and Big is good but, the design and the size are not in my future.
I love my kobra Max 2. After slowing down the print speed to about halfway and a few other tweaks, its prints, good, and most problems are user errors. i just finished a baby deadpool, and it came out great.
they are great printers. I have had very good luck with mine.
Others have told me that they have not. Not sure seems hit or miss?
Hey guys I have mine coming in, in a week and was wondering what's the best filament
Nice to see we have similar printers. Didn’t realize they had their own slicer. I use cura, so may need to switch to theirs for that ease
yea, its kind of a "light" version of Prusa/Bambu. It works good with their profiles, the best part about it, is that you can remote print.
@@TheLastLayer111 Bambu Studio has the Kobra Max profile but not the Kobra 2 Max profile, and the sizes are greyed out. It's much better than the Anycubic slicer v 1.0.
@@maxisp1000 I seen it in OrcaSlicer, which is pretty much Bambu, I was going to try it, just haven't gotten around to it yet. Ill give it a go. Thanks
So glad I saw this. I just impulse bought this printer
For what its worth, my experience with it has been very good.
Enjoy
I'm more interested in another printer for half-size droids and helmets, so this is right up my alley.
thank you for the review im picking up one up in next few month .. id love to see your setting for it thou so we can get prints as great as yours
I just use the standard settings that come with the Anycubic slicer. The only setting I will change is the extruder temperature under the Anycubic PLA setting. I set that to match the temp of whichever filament I am using. I Havnt had to change anything else.
I like this video and am considering this printer as an upgrade to my Elegoo Neptune 3max with a .6 nozzle. I will say that I cannot recommend elegoo filament. It constantly binds up due to the winding in the corner of the spool. I can't tell you how frustrating it is to check on a print in the morning to find it paused because it is bound up.
Good to know, ill keep an eye out for that
Love the videos as they've been very helpful as I ease into the cosplay space. I was curious, as you've got the full Iron Man behind you in this one, if you might consider a video on how you handle scaling a model to fit or at least check how a model would fit prior to running all those spools of filament through. I've seen a few from other Tubers, but think there is room for improvement on what they do and I do like to compare proven styles. Since your finish videos have really shown a light on better methods, I was hoping you might be able to do the same on sizing (be it a helmet or full body). Thanks and keep putting out these great vids!
thanks for you support. That's a real hard subject to nail down. Short of doing a full body scan (which most people don't have access to), every body is shaped different. I think that's why information is so hard to find on how different builders do it. SaturdayMorningProps has a good video, on scaling the helmets using a file off thingiverse (based on head size). I think this is a good start for helmets (th-cam.com/video/DVJVYGUvSjI/w-d-xo.html) but as for the rest of it, the best thing to do is to take as many measurements as possible and check corresponding dimensions in the armor. There is always going to some trial and error.
@@TheLastLayer111 thanks so much! I've been looking into ways to perhaps use my iPhone to scan. I saw Uncle Jesse do that for his head & helmet print. Tricky, but if we already own the gear, perhaps it can be leveraged. Happy to share if I get the time to figure it out.
Absolutely, Let me know if you get it figured out. Thanks
That predator mask is pretty awesome.
thank you
The real difference bettween the X1 and the Kobra Max is the size and the price. The X1 has a really small build plate size compared to the K Max and is twice the price.
The AnyCubic is TWICE as fast if your printing big stuff. Heres how: You can do a large print like a full fize helmet of chest plate in 1 print.....The Bambu , you will have to print it in pieces. 2 to 3 prints to get the same project done.
I completely agree. I use it all the time, because it offers one thing the Bambu cannot, SIZE.
Wow, it’s nice to see you did all these mask and they look pro! As for me with my K2M that has not been the case. I have had it for months now and I only have 50 hrs of print time on it because I have no successful prints except for little trinkets. The bed level is terrible, prints loosen, …, can not get a correct first layer down (will be doing a mod to it in the hopes that that will fix my issue for the bed leveling and then go from there). I am new at 3D printing and I realize that this is not the printer I shouldd have begun with but it’s what I have on my work bunch. Did you have to do any mechanical adjustment to you K2M? I see you are using Anycubic slicer. I am so bummed out with this printer but I am happy for you.
Wow.. sorry to hear that. A few others reached out to me and said something similar. That tells me they may not have the best quality control.
As for mine, I didnt do anything, no mods, no adjustments, I literally put it together and started printing.
One thing I always do is add some type of adhesion promoter to the bed , typically hairspray or lately Ive been using Nano polymer. In my opinion, this gives you a little “wiggle” room on that first layer.
Good luck, let me know how it turns out
I have been using my Kobra 2 Max and even bought a second one because of the amount of large projects I do on a regular basis. My first one I got back in January 2024, and minus a hiccup I had with a hotend, and then replaced it, it prints great. Never an adhesion issue, but I use Orca Slicer with a very small brim(2mm) and a very dialed in Z offset( which took some time learning...lol). My second printer I bought for $175 on Marketplace, and it had only 9 hrs printing time, but huge shifting issues. Took a lot of time and investigation, but I think I have tuned it in also finally. Love these beasts! Speaking of I love your Predator face it's amazing! Where'd you get that file?
Its from CG trader.
they are underrated printers. I love mine.
So glad to see someone else not shaming the aqua net. Is it a crutch? Maybe. Does it save me losing 800g of filament when something lets go at 90%? YUP. I truly feel like a lot of people REALLY over complicate their printing lives just to have something to talk about on the forums.
100% agree. So many print snobs in this hobby....i use hairspray just for a safety net. Do my printers work without it? Yes. But why take chances
I’ve been using aqua net on my Ender 5+ since I got it. Yes it works without it but honestly not as well. School glue sticks are too clumpy. Aquanet works 10000%
@@kondaksgasmasksandgaming910 Try tge Suave maximum hold. Its scented like roses and when it heats up the house smells awesome. Holds great too
oh yeah...sound quality is great
I have been trying to use Pteg with mine and getting a lot of fails. I will try the pla next.
I have not tried PETG yet. I mostly use this printer for helmets and always just used PLA.
I may get some PETG and play around with it.
@@TheLastLayer111 I ran a few prints in PLA, works exactly like you have said. My problem is now the supports for helmets. Used the default and it used an entire spool to print half a mando Helm.
I do not put supports under the dome any more. I used to, but I stopped doing it because of how much filament was used. I also pretty much switched to "tree/organic" supports, that saves a bunch of filament too.
I am putting some new videos together about setting up the print orientation and slicing. But in the mean time there are quite a few videos on people printing helmets without the dome supports. the inside looks bad, but you cannot tell on the outside, and if you are putting padding in it, most people probably wouldn't care anyways.
I would say, give that a try.
@@TheLastLayer111 thank you
@@TheLastLayer111 Circling back to this comment chain. I got a Filament dryer, and use it as my spool feed. It helps with the Petg, makes it printable, it also solves the uncoiling issue of the spool placement quite nicely
is this one better than the Elegoo Neptune 4 Max
Honestly couldn't say, I never used the Elegoo Neptune 4 max.
Would love to know other peoples thoughts, If someone wants to leave them in the comments
Just got mine up and running today. After printing one of my own projects the head unit doesn't not go to the "home" location it just sits on top of the print. Why?
Not sure why it would do that, I set mine up and had no problems with it.
Are you using the Anycubic slicer? or a 3rd party one?
@@TheLastLayer111 Prusaslicer
@@schwamieboy1 The slicers will only write the Gcode for the object being printed. In order for the printer to execute a command after the the actual print is done, It will require a Machine End Code script to be written in to the slicer under the Machine Settings section.
If you want to test if this is the issue. Try printing something small like a benchy, using the Anycubic factory slicer and see if that works.
Hi, i just buy the kobra max and i was wondering why my prints didn't stick to the bed, it's a glass bed. Can i use hair spray on it?
Yes, I use hair spray or adhesion promoter on all my beds, including on my bambu printer. For me its not worth the potential of losing a print 3/4 of the way through.
A subscriber mentioned to me to try nano polymer adhesive. I did and it worked very well, better than hair spray. Its a little pricy, but you dont need much and can print multiple times without re-applying. I have not had any problems or had any bed adhesion issues since i tried it.
You seem like a guy that really knows what he is doing, and I have a question. My son and I invested in an AnyCubic Kobra Max 2 and have had a number of issues. We seem to think the hot end isn't good enough to do what we what to do which is make Football Helmets. Have you upgraded the hot end for your machine and if so, what have you done?
I have not. My machine is 100% factory. If you would like, my email is listed in the channel description. Feel free to reach out. And I can see what I can do to help.
I don't know which of these two machines is better, kobra 2 max or nepturn 4 max? I'm wondering about that.
I cant really say, because I dont have any experience with the Neptune. But I have seen some good reviews.
Besides the Anycubic and the Bambu what other printers do you use? How do you decide which part to print on which machine? Do you use a resin printer for smaller and more detailed parts?
I also have a Flsun V400 and a ZeroG Mercury 1.1 (core XY converted Ender 5 plus). I honestly don't use them a whole lot any more. The Bambu printer and Anycubic are what I mostly use. and really for no more reason that, the Bambu is convenient and the Anycubic prints BIG.
I just got my first resin printer, the Elegoo Saturn 4 ultra. Its a huge learning curve, but I'm slowly getting there.
Have you had problems with layer shift?
I know my belts are good. I'm not sure what else to look for. Any ideas?
No, the only problem I ever had with the printer was a nozzle got plugged, and I had to change it. It was pretty worn out. But other than that, I have not had any other issues.
I dont really push the machine though.
Im going to do a few videos coming up on the slicer settings and how I set up my prints.
When I had the Kobra 2 Max, I had to cut all of the acceleration values in half in the slicer
I heard some people had problems, but I honestly didn't change any settings. Guess I got lucky with mine or maybe Anycubic updated the slicer? Who Knows? goes to show how manufacturing varies.
@@TheLastLayer111My kobra 2 plus is the same. Stock default print settings and never an issue
I understand that the bed requires 36 inches to move to and fro, but how big is the space needed where it actually sits on the surface?
13.5 from side to side and 22.5 from front to back.
I keep having layer shift problems on the X axis any tips
Make sure everything is moving smooth and see if it happening in the same place every time.
I had this problem once on a different printer, my steppers kept losing steps because my gantry was binding up.
If all that is good, try the same model with a different slicer to see if it corrects the problem.
@@TheLastLayer111 should I just return the printer to Amazon and get a replacement
@@grimtoons6695 If it keeps having problems, then I probably would.
Possibly could have something strange going on with one of the steppers.
Although its a Pain, thats the good thing about Amazon
@ thank you for replying so quickly man and for the advice
What is better for a first printer? The kobra 2 max or the elegoo neptune 4 max?
I honestly couldn’t say. I have never used the Elegoo. I would check around and watch some reviews.
Sorry I couldn’t be more help.
@@TheLastLayer111 its ok, thank you anyways
Do you mold your helmets after you've finished your individual pieces, or are they just o.o.a.k's?
I have never tried molding a print. That is a good idea and something I will research. But typically I just build them as o.o.a.k's.
Thanks!!! Did you like her speed?
For a large bed slinger, it was decent. Its never going to be as fast as a corexy machine.
Im happy with it
@@TheLastLayer111 I have a Sovol sv03 that goes at 60 speed, I'm going to get this Kobra 2 Max, your video helped me, thank you very much.
Hey can someone help me out my kobra max 2 is super slow even is sports mode please help me out thanks
Sorry it took so long to get back to you. What slicer are you using? I use the anycubic slicer that came with the printer. I run factory settings, and really just change the temp on the filament section depending on what filament I use.
If that doesn’t work, try resetting the slicer or reloading it.
Let me know if that helps
Wow those predators look amazing , are those 3D printed too ?
Yes, both were free files from thingiverse.
@@TheLastLayer111 wow , that would make a nice how to video.
@@TheLastLayer111had a look, maybe you could be so kind to help with a link ?
Its been a while, I looked around on thingiverse and didn't see the head anymore. There is a head on CG Trader, but you have to pay for the file. I wonder if someone made them take it off?
Here is the Mask I used.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:2947059
@@TheLastLayer111 thanks il have a look
Got this printer while ago, just really confusing my first ever printer and I’m not really satisfied with quality or results/slicers I’ve been using possibly my settings are not good but I’m not sure,
but I am just a beginner so this all could be my fault and I’m just an idiot 😂
I definitely wouldn’t say that. Printers can sometimes be finicky. I can get the printer to print very good just using stock setting with the Anycubic slicer and PLA. I heard they can be a bit more difficult to get good prints with other types of filament.
Quite often that is the difference between a less expensive printer and some of the higher end printers out there.
I can try to help, if you want to reach out to me by email. My address is in the channel description.
Great video i do disagree with the spray iv never had a print come of mine, also u can get better print times with other software than anycubics as its not the best i use simplyfy3d v5 and get ghreat bed adheasion also better quality and print time not like the anycubic software thats a but clunky over all though i agree with most things
I agree, the anycubic slicer is certainly not the best. Its really just a lite/clone version of Prusa/Bambu/Orca, etc..
It works good enough with the Kobra2 Max, and honestly not everyone know how to set up a slicer. If you understand the slicer settings, then absolutely, there are better options.
For those that want a somewhat Plug-and-play type experience, it is not a bad option.
But feel free and try different things, that's part of the fun of learning 3d Printing.
Enjoy
Do you heat soak the bed before you start printing?
That is a great question. Actually I do not. Even though its big, it is relatively thin, and I have never had a problem with it. I have another printer with a very thick MIC 6 bed and I do on that printer every time.
@@TheLastLayer111 Is it a Voron? I have moved away from AnyCubic and have a 350 2.4 and Trident?
that's an awesome printer. I have a ZeroG Mercury 1.1. Its a great printer, but unfortunately I messed up on a Kipper update and the Canbus MCU stopped communicating. I need to go back and re-configure the whole machine. I've been so busy, I haven't had time to mess with it.
Amazon is just vile for buying an Anycubic printer. WAY overpriced. Look around!